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Full text of "The Boston Cooking School magazine of culinary science and domestic economics"

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THE B03T9N 

COOKING SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF CULINARY SCIENCE So 
DOMEfTIC EOOXOMIOA 



Vol. X. 



JUNE-JULY, 1905 



No. 1 



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Wedding Cake decorated with candied roses, rose and mint leaves 

THE BOSTON COOKING .SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

372 BOYLSTON ST. BOSTON MASS. 



$1.00 a year 

yright, 1905, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



IO cents a copy 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 




BUMFORD 

G POWDER 










E POUND 



RUMFORD 






7 mL m \ 1 




£2*** to cream tartar or ***** 
^ta baking quality atui heaft« 




The Wholesome BaHing Powder 

Is not only endorsed by the most eminent physicians for its 
Wholesomeness and Purity, but receives the highest commendation 
of our best housekepeers for the light, delicate food it produces, 
for its superior strength and keeping quality. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School, Magazine. 



THE 



Boston Cooking - School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 



Volume X. 



& 



June-July, 1905 — May, 1906. 



Copyright, [905 — 1906, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



lb 



V 
Published Monthly by 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE. 

,, .Publication 0?ficc: 372 Boylston Street, 
■ ■ 

BOSTON/ MASS. .y^ - 



COMPLETE INDEX VOL. X, 

June-July, 1905 — May, 1906. 



PAGE 

A Cabinet Luncheon 225 

A Calm Retreat 76 

A Cheap, Easy, and Efficient Way of 

Pasteurizing Milk 134 

A Japanese Sandwich 13 

A Presidential Party 348 

A Wild Dinner 75 

A Singing Philosopher 10 

A Visit to Scheveningen (Illustrated) . 462 

A Wedding in Maarken 15 

An Originator of Soups . . . ' . .'~ 445 

April 437 

After Breakfast Chat, 36, 99, 152, 199, 247, 

298, 345, 393, 44i, 492 

Base of Supplies 128 

Borrowing 321 

Boston Brown Bread 397 

Cakes from the Land o' Cakes . . . 301 

Christmas Aunts 219 

Colonial Hearths (Illustrated) .... 263 

Concerning Company 154 

December 216 

Deliver the Goods ........ 470 

Editorials, 22, 82, 138, 184, 232, 282, 330, 378, 

426, 478 
Escholtzia, my Lady of Dreams . . . 132 
Estelle Reel and the Red Men (Illus- 
trated) 410 

February ... 323 

Food in Little Italy 277 

Food: Its Chemistryand Nutritive Value, 16 

From Day to Day 22 

Garnishes 275 

Glimpses of a Japanese Interior . . . 221 

Grape-fruit Supreme 10 1 

Hints for the Camp Cook (Illustrated) . 67 

Home Ideas and Economies, 42, 105, 155, 204, 

25L 303, 35L 398, 449, 498 

How Grandma Cooked 177 

How Not to be Poor - 125 

Ideas for Engagement Luncheons . . 227 

If Frowning Fate . . 183 

In an Old Bible . 321 

In October 135 

In the Deep Woods with a Cordon Bleu, 69 

In Time of Need ... ... 267 

Lessons in Cookery, 19, 80, 181, 229, 279, 327, 

375, 423, 475 
Making and Planting the Hot-bed . -362 

Making of Homes 273 

March 370 

Marketing in Mexico . 446 

Menus, Economical, for Week in December, 245 

Menus, Little Dinners 246 

Menus for Camp . . . ' 95 

Menus for Children's Home ..... 34 

Menus for Company 33 

Menus for Family of Two 35 

Menus for Formal Meals 98 



PAGE 

Menus for Occasions t 117 

Menus for Teas, Afternoon and Evening^ 

Receptions 268 

Menus for Thanksgiving 198 

Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners . . . 163 

Menus, Seasonable, 94, 96, 150, 197, 244, 295, 

342, 39°,* 438, 489 

Menus without Meat or Fish . . . 97, 151 

Miss Lydia's Roomer . . • 171 

Moravian Domestic Life (Illustrated) . 311 

My Jewels 201 

My Neighbor and I . 426 

My Wife's Function 269 

Nature's Food Cycle 421 

Notes on Food and Diet in Cuba . . .3,77 

November 170 

Old New England Hallways (Illustrated), 459 

Old-time Lights (Illustrated) 165 

On Easter Day in the Morning . . . 443 

One Thing More to Eat 419 

Our Lives are Songs 79 

Practical 425 

Rachel Tremlin 317, 367, 413 

Reward 350 

Reminiscences of Life in Mexico . . . 324 

Salem's Old-fashioned Gardens . . . 359 

Simplicity in Feeding 496 

Some Cuban Dishes 226 

Some Deep-woods Tid-bits 1 30 

Some Interesting Verandas (Illustrated), 407 
Some Suggestions for Christmas (Illus- 
trated) 213 

Some Suggestions for Summer .... 11 

Strawberries- Varieties and Planting . . 63 

Tarallucci and Pizzie Cavuie . . . . 223 

The Chayote 395 

The Child's Smile 127 

The Delicious Ham 51 

The Fine Art of Honesty 175 

The Garden 494 

The Glory that Remaineth 365 

The Habit of Pat - 9 

The Handy Man . 71 

The Prosaic Side of the House . . . 73 

The Revenge of M'sieur Louie .... 466 

The Salad the Other Half Ate . . . . 472 

The Up-to-date Waitress, 38, 102, 136, 202, 

292, 347 

The Vegetable Sphinx 81 

Toothsome Dainties of Ye Olden Time . 249 

To Muriel 66 

Vacations 41 

Vegetarianism and the Professor . . . 371 

Vesper Bells . 220 

Waiting 457 

Welfare Work at National Cash Register 

Company (Illustrated) 119 

What the Restaurant Manager Wanted . 179 

Which is Best ? 364 



IV 



Complete Index 



Will it Make me Strong? 349 

Words 417 

Recipes : — 

Afternoon Tea (Illustrated) ... 91 
Apples Baked with Almonds (Illus- 
trated) 242 

Apples, Glazed, with Preserved Ginger 

(Illustrated) . . ' . . . . . -. 340 
Apples, Lexington Style (Illustrated) . 387 
Artichoke Bottoms with Spinach Que- 
nelles (Illustrated) . . ... 239 
Artichoke Bottoms, St. George Style 

(Illustrated) 240 

Bananas and Cream (Illustrated) . . 436 

Beans, Canned String (Illustrated) . 484 

Beef, Braised Rump of (Illustrated), . 335 

Beef, Cold Corned (Illustrated) ... 430 

Bread, Corn 290 

Bread, French (Illustrated) .... 339 

Brioche for Cakes 28 

Brussels Sprouts with Cream . . . . 238 

Bouillon, Chicken and Tomato . . . 25 

Butter, Icing of . 32 

Cake, Angel 341 

Cake, Blueberry (Illustrated) ... 89 
Cake, Breakfast Corn (Illustrated) . . 48^ 
Cake, Child's Birthday (Illustrated) . 389 
Cake, Crown of Cream Sponge (Illus- 
trated) 291 

Cake, Fig (Illustrated) 192 

Cake, Hasty 89 

Cake, Plain Coffee 27 

Cake without Eggs 90 

Cakes, Coffee (Illustrated) . . .28 

Cakes, Roxbury 389 

Canapes, Coquelin Style 429 

Canapes, Oyster Crab ... . . 381 

Canapes with Eggs 381 

Candy Baskets for Bonbons and Ices . 341 

Catsup, Old-time Tomato .... 92 

Cauliflower, Boiled 149 

Cauliflower Scalloped with Cheese . 149 

Charlotte Glace" (Illustrated) . .- . 488 
Charlotte Russe, Coffee, with Jelly 

(Illustrated) 387 

Chayote, Andalouse (Illustrated) . . 385 

Chayote Baked in Cream Sauce . . . 385 

Chayote Saute 385 

Chayote, Stuffed (Illustrated) ... 385 

Chayote Salad 385 

Cheese Balls, Old Style (Illustrated) . 287 

Cheese Cutlets (Illustrated) . . . 242 

Cheese, South Chatham (Illustrated) . 141 

Cheese Timbales (Illustrated) . . . 146 

Chestnut Cup .... .... 243 

Chicken, Broiled Guinea, with Wild 

Rice (Illustrated) 85 

Chicken en Casserole 237 

Chicken, Medallions of, with Cress (Il- 
lustrated) 338 

Chicken, Medallions of, with Salad, in 

Ramekins 339 

Chicken, Supreme of (Illustrated) . 336 

Chow-chow, Cucumber 93 

Codfish Balls, Salt 432 

Codfish, Salt, Shaker Style (Illustrated) , 86 

Consomm6, Autumn Fashion . . . 142 

Consomme, Queen Fashion . '. . . 285 

Crabs, Hard Shell, au Gratin . . . 334 



Crabs in Chafing-dish (Illustrated) . . 333 
Crabs, Soft Shell (Illustrated) ... 25 
Croquettes, Chicken, with Broiled To- 
matoes (Illustrated) 87 

Croquettes, Rice and Sultana Raisins, 341 

Croutons, Hot Apple (Illustrated) . . 148 

Crullers, Mrs. Gould's 290 

Doughnuts 196 

Egg Plant Fried in Batter (Illustrated) , 1 43 

Egg Plant, Stuffed (Illustrated) . . . 190 

Eggs en Surprise (Illustrated) . . . 436 
Eggs and Mushrooms in Rice Border 

(Illustrated) 384 

Eggs in Ramekins au Gratin . . . 384 

Eggs Mollet (Illustrated) 336 

Fillets of Lamb on Artichoke Bottoms 

(Illustrated) 240 

Filling, Cream, for Patties . . . , 195 

Filling, Fig-and-Nut 193 

Filling with Brown Sauce . . . . 195 

Forcemeat, Veal or Chicken .... 337 

Fritter Batter 29, 144 

Fritters, Elderberry (Illustrated) . . 29 

Fruit Cups with Apple Sherbet . . 196 

Ginger Balls 169 

Grape-fruit Salad 289 

Halibut, Turbans of, Lenten Style 

(Illustrated) 383- 

Ham, Boiled, with Spinach Timbales 

(Illustrated) 482 

Ham, Boned, a la McAllister (Illus- 
trated) 334 

Hash, Braised Beef and Potato (Illus- 
trated) 336 

Hearts, Veal or Lamb, Stuffed (Illus- 
trated) 238 

Honey Cakes (Illustrated) . . . 147 

Ice-cream Junket, Chocolate .... 32 

Ice-cream Junket, Vanilla .... 32 

Ice-cream, Strawberry 32 

Ice, Orange Marmalade 91 

Ices, Unmoulding of (Illustrated) . . 31 

Jelly, Cranberry (Illustrated) . . . 191 

Jelly Rolls (Illustrated) 435 

Lamb, Leg of, Baked (Illustrated) . 142 

Lettuce Leaves, Genoese Fashion . . 141 

Lima Beans, Baked (Illustrated) . . 87 

Mackerel, Baked 433 

Maitre d'H6tel Butter 149 

Marmalade Tart 146 

Marmalade, Tomato 93 

Menus, Simple 437 

Meringue Cups with Strawberries and 
Cream (Illustrated) .... -3° 

Meringue Mixture 30 

Mint Jelly (Illustrated) 142 

Mince-meat 288 

Mousse, Vegetable, Macedoine (Illus- 
trated) 485 

Muskmelon, Sweet Pickled (Illus- 
trated) 92 

Nests of Meringue (Illustrated) . . . 437 
Omelet, Celery, with Starchy Founda- 
tion (Illustrated) 340 

Oyster Cocktail (Illustrated) . . . 187 
Oyster Plant or Salsify Salad (Illus- 
trated) 241 

Oyster Pilau 188 

Oysters, -Casanova Style 429 

Parfait, Maple (Illustrated) .... 389 



Complete Index 



Pastry, Plain (Illustrated) . . . 193 

Patties Small Shrimp 235 

Peach Parfait (Illustrated) .... 90 

Peas, Canning of 486 

Pears, Easter Style (Illustrated) . . 435 

Piccalilli 93 

Pie, Apple, Decorated with Cream and 

Cheese (Illustrated) , . ' 241 

Pie, Chicken and Oyster (Illustrated) . 287 

Pie, Fairy Squash 289 

Pie, Quaker 289 

Pie, Squash 196, 34 1 

Pie, Sweet Potato 93 

Pineapple, Cuban Fashion (Illustrated) 25 

Pineapple Parfait (Illustrated) . . 437 

Popovers (Illustrated) ... 146 
Potatoes, Baked (Illustrated) . .26 

Potatoes, Broiled .... . 149 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk 484 

Potatoes, Fried German Fashion . . 484 
Potatoes Stewed in Broth . . . r 483 
Potato - and - Cheese Mould (Illus- 
trated) 484 

Potato Fritters, Sweet (Illustrated) . 191 

Potatoes, Hollandaise 149 

Potatoes, Vienna Style (Illustrated) . 191 

Plunkets (Illustrated) . .... 146 

Pralines, Cocoanut 341 

Pralines, Pecan 291 

Preserves, Oriental 93 

Pudding, Black, No Eggs 289 

Pudding, Bread Viennoise (Illustrated), 487 

Pudding, Canned Corn ...... 341 

Pudding, Christmas Plum (Illustrated), 243 

Pudding, Christmas Fig 243 

Pudding, Nesselrode 243 

Pudding, Tapioca, with Sauce . . . 434 

Pumpkin, Canned 288 

Puffs for Consomme 285 

Puff Paste (Illustrated) 194 

Puree, Chicken, for Puffs 285 

Ramekins, Cheese (Illustrated) ... 88 

Rice in Individual Moulds (Illustrated) , 386 

Rice, Spanish ' . 88 

Rice Timbales with Raspberries . . 487 
Rice with Apples and Meringue (Illus- 
trated) 386 

Roast Goose (Illustrated) .... 236 

Roast Goose, Prune Stuffing for . . 237 

Roast Pig (Illustrated) 189 

Roast Pig, Bread Stuffing for . . . 189 

Salad, Asparagus (Illustrated) . . . 485 

Salad, Banana and Nut (Illustrated) . 486 

Salad, Cabbage 192 

Salad, Cabbage in Shell (Illustrated) . 433 

Salad, Celery-and-Apple 192 

Salad, Chicken (Illustrated) .... 27 

Salad, Egyptian (Illustrated) . . . 143 

Salad, Pepper 485 

Salad, Potato (Illustrated) . . . . 145 

Salad, Russian (Illustrated) .... 88 

Salad, Tomato 485 

Salad, Spinach, with Ham and Eggs 

(Illustrated) 27 

Salad, Stuffed Beet (Illustrated) . . 434 
Salad, Napolitaine (Illustrated) . . 432 
Salad, Thanksgiving (Illustrated) . . 190 
Salad, Tomato, Poinsetta Style (Illus- 
trated) .... ... 144 

Salmon Loaf (Illustrated) . . 430 



Sandwich, Club (Illustrated) .... 483 

Sandwiches, Cream Cheese-and-Parsley, 1 48 

Sandwiches, Trilby Style ..... 147 

Sandwiches, Hot Bread and Cheese . 86 

Sardines in Aspic . . . . . . . 286 

Sauce, Brandy ........ 488 

Sauce, Cherry . 32 

Sauce, Grape Juice 488 

Sauce, Foamy . 389 

Sauce, Hard 243 

Sauce, Hollandaise 239 

Sauce, Marguery 384 

Sauce, Orange Sabayon 341 

Sauce, Perigueux 337 

Sauce, Poivrade . 482 

Sauce, Sabayon 487 

Sauce, Tartare 26 

Sausage with Cereal and Bananas (Il- 
lustrated) 286 

Sherbet in Orange Shell (Illustrated), 387 

Souffle, Sweet Potato 389 

Soup, Black Bean 382 

Soup, Cream-of-Corn 429 

Soup, Cream-of -Oyster 187 

Soup, Cream-of -Salsify (Illustrated) . 235 

Soup, Cream-of -Spinach 382 

Soup, Cream-of -Squash 85 

Soup, Cream -of -Sweet Potato . . . 333 

Soup, Egyptian Lentil 85 

Soup, Tomato, with Spaghetti . . . 382 

Spaghetti, Creole 286 

Sponge Wells with Jelly (Illustrated) . 31 

Strawberries with Crusts ..... 30 

Svea Wafers (Illustrated) . . . . 432 

Sweetbreads, Doria Style 481 

Sweetbreads Saut6d with Sauce (Illus- 
trated) 431 

Sweetbreads Stuffed with Peas . . . 481 

Timbale for Consomme 1 ..... 142 

Tomatoes, Du Barry Style (Illustrated) , 1 44 

Tomatoes and Green Peppers Broiled . 86 

Tomatoes, Shaker Style . . . . . 191 

Tournedos of Beef (Illustrated) . . . 482 

Triangles, Hot Apple (Illustrated) . . 89 

Tripe Broiled with Bacon 287 

Turon Cuchara 90 

Waffles 290 

Wafers, Oatmeal Sugar 291 

Queries and Answers: — 

Almond Paste 404 

Angel Parfait ... ..... 109 

Apricots with Crusts and Almonds . . 256 

Asparagus, Vinaigrette 504 

Banana Coffee 355 

Bar-le-duc 55 

Beans Baked with Olive Oil .... 356 

Beans, Lima, Canned 501 

Biscuit, Baking-powder . . . . 255 

Biscuit, Soup . 259 

Blueberry Sponge 115 

Bread, Whole-wheat 56, 113 

Bread, Whole-wheat or White . . . 210 

Bread, Salt -rising 162 

Cake, Angel 54 

Cake, Angel Food 456 

Cake, Devil's Food 114 

Cake, Entire-wheat Fruit . . . . 162 

Cake, Elegant 54 



VI 



Complete Index 



PAGE 

Cake, Lady . 55 

Cake, Pound 162 

Cake, Watermelon ... ... 210 

Cake, White 162 

Canapes, Mushroom and Oyster . . 455 

Candy, Sticky, White Spots on . . . 454 

Candied Mint Leaves 356 

Candied Cherries 114 

Canning Strawberries and Raspberries . 308 

Canning Vegetables 113 

Caviare, Serving ... .... no 

Chicken, Creole Style 256 

Chicken, Newburg 355 

Chicken, Planked . . . ' . . . 53 

Chicken, Souffle 256 

Chop Suey 355 

Civet de Lievre 259 

Clam Broth 356 

Cocktails, Clam 53 

Cocktails, Strawberry 55 

Coffee Charlotte Russe 256 

Coffee Cream Ice 210 

Cookies, Fancy 403 

Cookies, Peanut . . 403 

Cookies with Baking-powder ... 209 

Cream Horns or Lady Locks .... 456 

Cream Ice, Bisque 112 

Cream, Substitute for Butter in Cake- 
making 356 

Cream of Tartar and Soda, Proportions a 

of . ., 356 

Creme de Menthe 112 

Croquettes, Beef 456 

Croquettes, Oyster 455 

Custard, Cheese 53 

Custard, Lemon 109 

Custard, Rich and Velvety .... 258 

Dates, Hot 260 

Diet for Eczema . 255 

Dressing, Mayonnaise ...... 455 

Dumplings 257 

Egg Rings . 403 

Enchilades, Mexican no 

Filling, English Cream . . . . in 

Finnan Haddie, Various Styles . . . 502 

Fondant, Handling of 454 

Food for Diabetics . 209 

Fish Roe, Cooking no 

Fritters, Canned Corn xvi 

Fruit Syrup 112 

Gems, Corn-meal 453 

Graham Bread 402 

Grunkorn Grits 57 

Gumbo, Chicken . 56 

Home Wedding 260 

Ice-cream, fCoffee 210 

Ice-cream, ^Neapolitan 112 

Ice-cream, Philadelphia, Lemon . . 210 

Malt Bread . 454 

Marrons Glaces -54, 402 

Marmalade, Grape-fruit 308 

Meat, Inexpensive Cuts of .... 503 

Menus, Dinner, without Meat . . . 258 

Menus for a Child . 56 

Menus for Buffet Luncheon . . , . 455 



PAGE 

Menus for Sluggish Liver 115 

Menus, Simple 501 

Milk, Almond or Cocoanut .... 53 

Mint Julep . . . 112 

Moulds, Charlotte Russe 453 

Moulds, Border 454 

Mousse, Chicken or Fish 53 

Mousse, Maple 55 

Muffins, Rye-meal 114 

Pancake, German Potato 260 

Parfait, Golden or Sunshine . . . . 456 

Parfait, Maple 55 

Parfait, Maple, Freezing of ... . 503 

Pate-de-foie-gras, Mock 307 

Pepper Seeds in Chili Sauce . . . . 161 

Peppers, Sweet, Stuffed and Baked . 161 

Pie Crust with Lard 356 

Pie, Flaky, Crust 306 

Pie, Lemon 404 

Pie, Regarding Custard 306 

Pie, Veal Pot . 257 

Potatoes, Scalloped Sweet . . . 260 

Potatoes, Fried French 1 1 1 

Potato Yeast 161 

Pot Roast 403 

Pudding, Cheese 53 

Pudding, Delight 404 

Pudding, Frozen .109 

Pudding, Rice, with Raisins . . . . 114 

Pudding, Sea Foam ..... „ 404 

Pudding, Steamed Graham .... 54 

Pudding, Steaming Delight .... 54 

Puffs, Cream m 

Rice with Cheese 161 

Rolls, Shaping of 307 

Salad, Chicken no 

Salad, Fish Roe .110 

Salmon Loaf 209 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 308 

Sauce, Chili in 

Sauce, Egg-nog 258 

Sauce, Frozen Orange 55 

Sauce, Green Ravigote 56 

Sauce, Ravigote 56 

Sauce, Romaine 504 

Sauce, Spanish 504 

Scandinavian Rosettes 456 

School Luncheons 257 

Scones, Scotch ........ 307 

Shad Roe no 

Soda in Tomato Soup 56 

Soup Bags ... . . . 4 . . 259 

Strudel, Recipe for 356 

Sugar in Caramel ....... 402 

Sweet Herbs ... 259 

Sweet Potato Puff 404 

Syrup, Graining of 454 

Terrapin, Several Styles 504 

Tongue, Boiled, a la Romaine . . . 504 

Tubes for Chrysantheum Decoration . 453 

Virginia Reels 504 

Wedding, Silver 306 

Welsh Rabbit . 162 

Whitebait 504 

Woodcock, Scotch, etc 307 



Bill of fare 

At Teacup Inn, Washington, D. C, April 28 

ARTICLE PRICE 

Vegetable Soup $0.15 

Chicken Bouillon . 15 

French Chops . 35 

Club Steak . 40 

Roast Beef ' .35 

Creamed Chicken and Rice 35 

Devilled Crab 25 

Veal Cutlet, Tomato Sauce ... 20 

Macaroni Cecils 15 

Creamed Spinach 10 

Potatoes, Mashed or Lyonnaise 10 

Chicken Salad 40 

Fresh Tomato Salad 25 

Crab Salad 20 

Sliced Cucumbers 10 

Hot Rolls 05 

Pie, Apple, Rhubarb 05 

Wine 'Jelly with Cream 15 

Vanilla Ice-cream, Strawberry Sauce 15 

Fruit Sherbet 15 

Strawberries 20 

Cake 05 

Pot of Tea, Chocolate or Coffee, Bread and Butter . . .20 



Th 



e 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



JUNE -JULY. 



No. i. 




Near the Produce Exchange, Havana. 



Notes on Food and Diet in Cuba 

By C. F. Langworthy, Ph.D. 



A VACATION visit to Cuba of- 
fered an opportunity to gather 
some information regarding 
foods, markets, methods of cooking, and 
related topics. The time spent in the 
island was short, and it is recognized 
that the subject could not be studied 
thoroughly. Fortunately, our party 
were able to meet a number of Cubans 
and Americans, who had resided some 
time in Cuba, and were well informed 
and able to give accurate information. 
One of these gentlemen was connected 
with the Department of Charities and 
Correction, and had for a long time been 



interested in all problems pertaining 
to diet, and especially diet in public 
institutions. Much information re- 
garding trade conditions was obtained 
through an American, who was the 
representative of a large New York 
commercial agency. Data were also 
secured from leading Cuban merchants 
and from Americans of long residence 
in the island. 

With the exception of a short visit 
to Matanzas and Guines, the time was 
passed in Havana, so that what is said 
of markets, etc., applies especially to 
that city. However, so far as could be 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



learned, dietary conditions are much 
the same in all the large towns of the 
island. 

Havana contains many grocery 
stores, large and small, and markets 



each merchant having a small space 
for the display of goods; and the va- 
riety shown is very large. This method 
renders it possible to transact a large 
amount of business in a short time. 




Kitchen of a Private Hospital 



where fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, 
etc., are sold in much the same way 
as at the Washington Market in New 
York or the Centre Market in Wash- 
ington. The principal market was lo- 
cated in an old building; but the stalls 
seem well arranged, and the whole place 
was orderly, and appeared to be in 
good sanitary condition. In fact, the 
whole city of Havana was noticeably 
clean in this respect, being superior 
to many American cities. 

The bulk of the food consumed in 
Cuba is imported, Spain being appar- 
ently the most important source of 
supply. This is to be expected, as 
a people of Spanish descent would nat- 
urally have the tastes and habits of 
the mother country. American firms 
were well represented, and the provi- 
sion trade with the United States is 
growing. Importers and wholesale and 
retail merchants meet every morning 
from eight to ten at the Produce Ex- 
change, where goods are sold by sample, 



The food supply of Havana impresses 
a visitor as being very varied. The 
island furnishes many vegetables and 
fruits, rice and corn, cocoanuts and 
other palm nuts, while the rivers and 
seas supply a large variety of fish, 
crustaceans, shell-fish, etc. Some dairy 
products and meat are produced on the 
island, although a large proportion of 
the meat used at present is imported. 
Practically, all the flour u^ed comes 
from the United States. Rice, which 
is a staple article of diet, appearing 
every day on the table of a large num- 
ber of the inhabitants, is imported in 
great quantities from the Bast, via 
England, as the amount produced 
locally is far from sufficient to supply 
the demand. Much rice, also, comes 
from the United States. Macaroni, 
chick peas, lentils, and many varieties 
of beans are imported, some beans and 
peas from the United States, and the 
other articles mentioned mostly from 
Spain. Among dried beans were no- 



Food and Diet in Cuba 



ticed frijoles, Windsor beans (which 
were called Limas), red, black, and 
white beans, similar to the common 
American varieties, and dried peas, 
which were apparently ,our ordinary 
field peas, dried before they were ripe. 

Several sorts of macaroni and other 
forms of Italian paste of local manu- 
facture and fine appearance were no- 
ticed. 

From Spain the Cubans import dried 
pigs' feet, cut so as to include a con- 
siderable part of the ham or shoulder, 
dried snails, and dried smoked fish, 
a very fine fish product being packed 
in round boxes, the top layer forming 
a design or pattern. The dried snails 
were packed in narrow, deep baskets. 
Dried shrimps come from New Orleans ; 
and large quantities of American canned 
meats were found on sale, as well 
as dried codfish from Newfoundland. 
From South America jerked beef in 
narrow strips is imported in large 
quantities, and forms a very impor- 
tant part of the diet of the masses. 





A Milk Boy. 



Milk Cans at a Country Station 

Some beef cattle are raised in Cuba, 
though to less extent than formerly, 
and numbers of large, lean, black pigs, 
apparently of the razor-back variety, 
as well as many goats. No sheep were 
seen, but goats' flesh is very often, 
served as mutton. Poultry and eggs 
seemed abundant. 

Quantities of fresh fish, mollusks, 
and other invertebrates are eaten. In 
addition to numerous varieties of fish, 
oysters, large and small shrimps, craw- 
fish (called lobster at the hotels) and 
crabs, squid was noticed, and seemed 
quite abundant. The tentacles are 
cut in sections, and, when fried, are 
quite palatable, the flesh being white 
with a purplish-pink tinge, and the 
flavor not unlike scallop. Indeed, all 
the fish and the shrimps and the craw- 
fish were most excellent. The native 
Cuban oysters, which are of moderate 
size, were not \ T ery satisfactory. Some 
oysters are imported from the United 
States. 

Both goat's and cow's milk is used 
in Cuba. The animals are sometimes 
driven through the streets, and milked 
at the door. Sometimes the milk is 
delivered, being carried in large cans 
in panniers on the backs of donkeys 
and mules. In Havana there was, at 
this time, at least one dairy with mod- 
ern equipment, where pure milk was 
guaranteed. So far as could be learned, 
it is the almost universal custom in 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 





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Breakfast in a Large Shop, Havana 

Cuba, as in Germany and elsewhere 
in Europe, to serve milk hot, — a wise 
precaution, if there is any doubt as 
to the healthfulness of the supply, as, 
of course, disease germs would be thus 
quite generally destroyed. Large quan- 
tities of condensed milk, including 
American brands, are sold, the ad- 
vertisements of this class of goods 
being among the most common street 
signs. 

Butter is high in price, and generally 
of an inferior quality. A considerable 
quantity is imported from the United 
States, the Chicago packing-houses 
and doubtless others supplying it, 
packed in sizes suited for the special 
market. Much Danish canned butter 
is also offered for sale. The Cubans 
demand a butter of about the same 
color as is sold in the United States, 
and not the deep reddish-orange sort 
preferred in some parts of South Amer- 
ica. An American resident said that 
he obtained most excellent butter 
from an Havana merchant at 6o cents 
per pound, and that the butter was 



made at one of the New England agri- 
cultural experiment stations. 

Cheese is a popular food with the 
Cubans, American and other imported 
cheeses being eaten, such as Gouda, 
Swiss, American Cream, Roquefort, 
Holland, Brie, Camembert, and a va- 
riety resembling Neufchatel. A white 
cheese of Cuban manufacture, much 
served at the hotels at dessert, was 
found to be of good flavor. It is eaten 
with guava jelly, paste, or marmalade, 
— a combination which is very popular 
with Cubans and foreigners. 

Lard is a common culinary fat, and 
is imported very largely from the 
United States. Oil, especially olive 
oil, is much used for dressing salad and 
for cooking purposes, and is quite 
cheap, 25 cents, Spanish, being the 
price of a good-sized bottle. 

The list of vegetables is large, in- 
cluding potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, 
teyote, taro, corn, radishes, peas, beans, 
tomates, lettuce and other salad plants, 




In the Havana Market 



Food and Diet in Cuba 




Carrying Home the Marketing 

egg-plant, squash, etc. Most of the 
garden truck used in Havana is raised 
in the near-by country by Chinamen; 
and there has been a good deal of agi- 
tation regarding the use of night soil 
as a fertilizer, such material being 
obviously a possible source of bacterial 
contamination. A very important 
plant in tropical America is the plan- 
tain, — a variety of banana with fruit 
six or seven inches in length, and green 
in color when ripe. The bunches of 
fruit are large. Plantains are not eaten 
raw, but are much used as a vegetable, 
great quantities being found in the 
markets. They are generally fried, 
and are more solid and firm than fried 
bananas. When cooked they have a 
less pronounced flavor than bananas 
and are most excellent. Judging from 
their appearance, plantains could be 
readily sent to our Northern cities if a 
taste for them could be formed. They 
are now sold in New Orleans and, 
doubtless, other Southern cities, and 
are well worth a trial. 

It was interesting to learn that large 
quantities of garden truck, especially 
potatoes, egg-plant, and tomatoes, are 
raised for export to the United States, 
and to see the well-managed farms de- 
voted to this industry. The warm, 
damp air in the fields seemed almost like 
that of a hot-house. Near Guines 
many such farms were seen, which were 
apparently in the hands of Americans; 



and there are, doubtless, many others 
in different parts of the island. 

Cucumbers, it is said, do not succeed 
well out of doors. They seem common 
in the Havana hotels and restaurants, 
but were generally raised in glass houses. 
It has been suggested that for some 
reason the blossoms are not readily 
fertilized when they grow out of doors. 

The squashes noticed in the Havana 
market resemble the variety we know 
as "winter squash," and were com- 
monly sold in sections. Onions and 
garlic were very abundant, the latter 
being generally imported. 

The list of common vegetables in 
the market throughout the year is 
undoubtedly much larger than the 
above, though in a country of perpet- 
ual summer there is, of course, not 
much necessity for limiting crops to 
any one season of the year. 

Corn is raised to a considerable ex- 
tent, and is eaten green and ripe. The 
green ears are boiled or roasted. Ap- 
parently, both processes are sometimes 
followed, the ear being first boiled, and 



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In the Produce Exchange 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A Kitchen at Guines, showing the Brick Stove 

then roasted. A well-informed Cuban 
stated that large quantities of these 
cooked ears were eaten; and another 
friend said that the cooked ears were 
frequently seen in Cuban houses, and 
that members of the family would eat 
a few kernels at a time, in much the 
same way that Americans eat popcorn 
or peanuts, implying that the maize 
in the ear was, in his opinion, a food 
accessory rather than a staple article 
of diet. The ripe maize that was no- 
ticed was a dark bright yellow in color, 
and quite flinty, though evidently not 



apples, mammee sapotas, sour-sop, cheri- 
moyer, and sapodilla, all these being 
very common in market, as are Ameri- 
can apples and pears. In March guavas 
were just coming in season, as well as 
alligator pears, the early spring varie- 
ties of the latter being shipped from 
Mexico. The alligator pear is a very 
popular fruit, and later very abundant. 
It is coming to be appreciated in 
the United States. Perhaps, excepting 
this, the mammee sapota seemed the 
most satisfactory fruit not commonly 
found in our Northern markets; and 
it is probable that a demand could soon 
be created for it. In flavor it slightly 
resembles a muskmelon, and seems 
desirable as a breakfast or a dessert 
fruit. It is commonly eaten in Cuba 
at dessert or out of hand, and is much 
liked. Specimens were purchased in 
the Havana market on Saturday, and 
carried in a basket, without special 
precautions to keep them cool, to 
Washington, D.C., reaching there the 
following Thursday, and were found 
to be in fairly good condition. This 
would indicate that, with special pre- 
cautions, the fruit might be trans- 




A Rice Mill in the Country 



of the type known as flint corn. It yields 
a granular meal of good appearance. 

In the spring common Cuban fruits 
are oranges, bananas, — especially a 
small, highly flavored variety, — pine- 



ported to our Northern markets, if 
gathered under-ripe. It has often been 
brought to the United States, though 
never in considerable quantities. 

(Continued in Aug.-Sept.) 



The Habit of Pat 



By Kate Gannett Wells 



D 



ON'T "get a habit of pat," 
said the artist William Hunt 
to his pupils, — "patting little 
lines that don't mean anything." And 
so say we, all of us, about many other 
affairs than that of drawing, secretly 
enjoying, however, the gentle sarcasm 
of the great teacher at the half-closed 
eye and uplifted pencil by which the 
self-conscious tyro in art would meas- 
ure distance and transfer his impres- 
sions to paper in weak, dotted lines. 

"Patting" is such an expressive 
word for the attitude of mind which 
cannot seize hold upon emergencies, 
that dares not be a lover bold, that 
crawls out of embarrassments, and is 
never ready to be definite. In social 
life it means the perpetual smile, the 
affable bow, the wordy compliment, 
the mincing, fawning tread, and the 
never having a mind of one's own. A 
"patting" wife is aggravating, and a 
"patting" husband is unendurable. 
A patting woman is always altering her 
dress just to keep in the fashion ; and a 
patting man always soothes himself by 
thinking things will come out right, 
but never takes the trouble to make 
them do so. Worse still, a "habit of 
pat" makes either man or woman 
a swipe, trying to get in a roundabout 
way what either may want. 

In education, this habit leads to 
subterfuges, which, if not successful 
when practised on one's teachers, is at 
least demoralizing to one's self, as one 
accepts half -knowledge, make- shifts, 
evasions, lazy work, excuses galore, 
for the hard work of real study, for 
the exact statement of exact fact. 
True that we see as we are, only the 
habit of pat diminishes our ability to 
see correctly. "Don't make lines until 
you think you know where they belong, 
then go ahead," added Hunt. But, 



if we twist ourselves into thinking we 
see truly, because we are tender- 
hearted or diplomatic with ourselves, 
then we shall never see the real thing, 
never draw the firm line; for all our 
doing and thinking will be in little 
dabs. 

A habit of pat in the home means 
weak praise of one's children to save 
one's self the trouble of finding fault, in 
indefiniteness in moral issues, calling 
what is a downright lie a mere exag- 
geration, blinking at little deceptions 
because they were kindly meant, and 
excusing selfishness on account of 
fatigue. A small boy was left in the 
care of an old nurse, who, to amuse 
him, offered him some raisins, which 
his mother had forbidden him to eat. 
"Never mind, she needn't know," urged 
the nurse. "I am ashamed of you, 
Sally," he answered; for he would not 
be patted. When that boy was a 
famous preacher, his little daughter 
told a half-truth; but neither his love 
for her nor her pleading induced him 
to condone the offence. He would 
not pat her in her sorrow, lest he weak- 
ened her truth. And she, in later 
years, suffered not her daughter to pat 
herself as excuse for exaggeration by 
calling it brilliancy; and that girl is 
now square in all sport. Heredity 
cotmts. 

Often it may be hard for a mother 
not to yield to the desire to shield her 
child from the results of its mistakes. 
Yet such yielding lessens its birthright 
to self-control; for our children must 
learn that stalwart rectitude and jolly 
good times can go together, if one does 
not fall into the habit of patting. 

Patting in politics or official life, 
from women's committees to legisla- 
tive bodies, leads to sinuousness and 
graft, as the habit extends from pri- 



IO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



vate to public life. We may call our 
patting relatives polite bores, and our 
official superiors spoilsmen; but, all 
the same, it is the lack of clear seeing 
and of unwillingness to call things by 
their right names which makes us 
prefer transient ease to permanent good. 

The patting of one's self is a state 
of self-satisfaction very different from 
a cheerful good sense or an acknowl- 
edgment of tired mistakes. It is a 
kind of mental jugglery, a sleight-of- 
hand trick with one's self -conscious- 
ness. It also begets "self-reinfection," 
as is said of certain physical diseases, — 
a disagreeable phrase, but as true of 
the mind as of the body. 

Yet William Hunt's entreaty is two- 
edged in its strenuousness. It is Don't 
and then Do. His words do not leave 
us floundering. See clearly, then "Go 
ahead"; and to what heights the two 
commands, lead! They made alike 
Michel Angelo, the sculptor, who 
transferred his perfect knowledge of 
anatomy to marble, and the modern 
teacher of a group of models, or of 
sloyd, or of arts and crafts, work. For 
it is the clear perception of that for 
which we strive that produces honest 
work rather than futile ambition, and 
emphasizes for us the value of home 
life and daily housekeeping. 

I say to myself, Don't pat, when I 



am dusting carelessly, or feebly knead- 
ing the bread, or rushing the fire so as 
to roast or bake quickly what should 
be cooked slowly. Don't pat, I again 
say, when I want to baste instead of 
sewing firmly, until the artist's com- 
mand is for me translated into the 
every-day mandates of: Don't half do 
things. Don't fall into the slough of 
self-deception, lest my housekeeping 
result in ill-prepared food and un- 
comfortable rooms. Select my menu 
with care, then go ahead in its cooking. 
Don't dust till I have swept. Don't 
buy what I can't use. Calculate on 
my wants before I satisfy any one of 
them. Don't half-read good books. 
Don't whitewash wrong-doing. Don't 
call merely unmoral that which is im- 
moral. 

And then I add, See clearly, so as to 
keep the sense of proportion in life. 
Blame neither others nor myself with- 
out charity. Remember the words 
of Rev. E. A. Horton, who defined 
heredity as that for which one blames 
his parents, and environment as that 
for which one blames his wife and chil- 
dren. True as is the terse epigram, 
let us rather make our own heredity, 
and conquer bad environment. Don't 
pat one's self into pity for the first or 
into laziness for the other. See clearly, 
go ahead, and make one's mark. 



A Singing Philosopher 

By Helen Knight Wyman 



Whatever Fate to me may say, 
A cheerful courage wins the day. 
So, if she fills or spills my cup, 
I'll sing to keep my courage up! 



When things have gone from bad to worse, 
I sing aloud this little verse, — 
"How glad, my heart, you ought to be! 
Things aren't so bad as they might be!" 



But, when they're bad as they can be, 
My heart is lightened wondrously; 
For to myself I sing this verse, — 
"Things are so bad, they can't be worse!" 



Some Suggestions for Summer 

By Mrs. A. D. Smith 



R 



EST means change. There 
are so many things house- 
keepers never have time to do. 
I do all such things in the summer, 
and have a lovely time visiting my- 
self, if I don't go away." So said a 
dear friend of mine, as she sat on the 
shaded porch one beautiful June day, 
with a big cretonne sofa cushion on 
her lap, and finished the last few 
threads that sewed it into its new dress. 

Knowing her habits and her home, 
which is the very epitome of comfort 
and tasteful arrangement, I gather up 
the threads of the story she told me, 
that her plan may weave a suggestion 
for some who may see these words. 

This woman stays at home most of 
the summer. Sometimes she goes away 
for a week, but that cannot always be 
arranged; yet she, as well as the idler 
at this or that dreaming spot, forgets 
life's customary routine, and takes two 
months' rest at home. She cuts out 
from her day all duties outside the 
house as if actually away. Breakfast 
is at half -past seven. A light lunch 
in picnic style on the piazza or under 
a tree is the mid-day meal; and, when 
I say light, I mean bread and butter, 
fruit, milk, or tea or chocolate. No 
table is set, save on special occasions 
or when the day is rainy. Dinner is 
at five o'clock. This plan may seem 
strange, but try it for a change, and 
see. There is a sense of freedom the 
better part of the day; and, with din- 
ner over, the long, pleasant, cool even- 
ing finds you its guest. 

This housekeeper shuts her eyes to 
the fact that she is at home, and visits 
her house. She looks critically into 
every nook and cranny, and does at 
least one thing a day, to remedy de- 
fects or make her home prettier in 



some way. "This room isn't just 
right. I will change it — so. Now 
that portiere is really too hopelessly 
shabby. I will make a new one for 
my next embroidery," etc. 

Then she has beautiful times of 
dreaming and planning, lying in the 
hammock. She embroiders, she reads, 
she plans gifts and luncheons unto the 
autumn. She passe-partouts all the 
pictures she has put away, and does 
everything she is "going to do some 
day." 

Why not try this plan, housekeepers 
who cannot go away in the summer? 
Give more close and loving touches to 
your house than you have time to do 
in the busy months. Live differently, 
dress simply, give yourself some real 
liberty, freedom from responsibilities 
and social routine. Take the trolley 
car into the unexplored suburbs of 
the town in which you live, and carry 
with you the stupid stocking-bag, 
with its week's mending. The task 
will seem a different thing when done 
by a babbling brook. 

If you do go away to the seashore or 
the mountains, take one trunk that 
holds spare room unto your returning; 
and you can make new thoughts for 
decoration of your house or gifts to 
your friends that would never occur 
to you at home. 

At the seashore, gather shells that 
please your fancy, the fisherman's 
net that is worn and discarded, and 
the many-colored pebbles that the 
ever-ceaseless waves wash in at your 
feet. Dried sea moss is used by many 
for packing china instead of the com- 
mon excelsior. Does not this whisper 
a suggestion to the lover of sofa cush- 
ions, that they' might easily be stuffed 
with this gift from the sea ? 



12 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Many kinds of seaweed may be 
pressed and afterward draped by in- 
visible stitches on bright-colored mats. 
These make novel picture frames for 
the water colors that every amateur 
artist will bring home with her. 

With pebbles can be made the pret- 
tiest of tiles, or with them crude pot- 
tery may be ornamented. Mould 
pitchers, jars, bowls, jardinieres, etc., 
out of clay such as sculptors use, and 
embed in the surface the little stones 
in mosaic effect. A coat of varnish 
over all will give a polished surface. 
For mosaic tiles to rest tea or choco- 
late pot upon, take a small square cake- 
pan, the size of the tile required. 
Thoroughly grease the inside of this 
pan, and lay your pebbles down in any 
pattern or design, until the bottom is 
covered. Many different-colored seal- 
ing-wax are required next. These are 
poured, molten hot, amidst the small 
crevices of the pebbles. First a bit of 
red, then blue, green, etc. Be sure 
that the wax is hot enough to pene- 
trate to the bottom of the pan, and 
work quickly, that the colors may blend 
in hardening. When all is done, the 
pan will turn out a pretty tile that is 
well worth the trouble. 

Mosaic picture-frames may be made 
in the same manner with a Turk's-head 
tin, to get the hole in the centre. 
Round tiles can be made by using 
small round pans, etc. 

Many a pretty gift can be made 
with sea-shells as a foundation. Sand- 



papered and polished, they make nice 
little saucers for dessert, or fruit at a 
luncheon, where Novelty is the mis- 
tress who sets the table. 

Fish-nets used as curtains are not 
new, but they are pretty ; and effective 
table covers, with a fringe of dangling 
shells, make charming souvenirs of the 
seashore for dens or studios. 

To the housekeeper who gathers 
ferns in the country, as to the one who 
seeks the seaweed, I can only say, 
"Press them." The large ones will 
make the most lovely wall-paper de- 
signs, either as a frieze or wainscot- 
ing effect, by pasting to a wall of solid 
color, and varnishing slightly. A plain 
painted wall can be made a thing of 
beauty in this way. The little ferns, 
pressed, make dinner cards, or this or 
that fancy for favors or souvenirs. 

Bring home from the country birch 
bark, bittersweet, pressed flowers, and 
discarded bird's nests, dried grasses, 
etc. The memory of the country and 
clever fingers can weave them into 
many a unique Christmas or birthday 
gift, or their presence may be the one 
touch needed on Hospitality's table. 

So make the summer give you of its 
bounty. 

Be idle awhile each day, for that 
is good for the body; and change the 
routine of work, and give yourself 
some unwonted pleasure, for that is 
good for the soul. 

It will soon be summer, stad Nature 
will rest. Rest with her. 



'The winds of God shall sweep the clouds 

Away across the sky, 
And all the shades shall be dispelled 

That in the valleys lie; 
And, though these shadows linger still, 

The heart with rapture thrills, 
That while we wait and work and pray 

The light shines on the hills!" 



A Japanese Sandwich and its Background 

By Helen Campbell 



THAT a report of the United 
States Bureau of Fisheries 
should land us in Japan, face 
to face with an unknown order of sand- 
wich, is the unexpected fact which 
compels another meditation on the 
characteristics of a people we have 
long called "heathen," but who, in 
the eyes of all the world, stand now for 
the noblest traits human nature owns. 
There is a gentle irony in the words 
of the Japanese minister: "We have 
for generations been sending you ex- 
quisite works of art, and you called 
us 'heathen.' Now we have killed 
some seventy thousand Russians, and 
you call us 'highly civilized.'" 

The issue thus raised cannot be dealt 
with here; but there are other phases 
of the great conflict which have a 
bearing on the work of the cooking 
school, no matter where it is found. 
Whether conquered or conquerors, the 
Japanese stand to-day as teachers of 
the whole world, their supposed ig- 
norance of foods and dietaries suitable 
for such a campaign having been proven 
a wisdom no civilized nation has yet 
attained. Our own senseless army ra- 
tions for forces in the Philippines and 
in Cuba demonstrated the general lack 
of understanding that marks our hand- 
ling of the food question in most of its 
special aspects; and even now, after a 
year of demonstration as to the efficacy 
of Japanese methods, discussion as to 
how we may apply them is just be- 
ginning. In the mean time their meth- 
ods, with life for sick or well, in food, 
drink, general hygiene and sanitation, 
have taught every nation that owns 
a standing army some lessons never 
learned, and others still to be studied. 
Nothing has more deeply emphasized 
the quality of their knowledge than 
the extraordinarily low death-rate from 



general diseases in a campaign, whose 
list of dead and wounded in battle 
for both sides outnumbers anything 
on record since war began. Yet sol- 
diers subsisting for long periods on 
parched rice and a little dried fish 
have borne incredible hardships, and 
faced each new emergency with health 
and vigor untouched, it seemed, by 
any deprivation. Near the base of 
supplies full variety was certain, but 
no lack of it hindered effective work. 
In this variety were found various 
forms of kanten, and this brings us 
to the beginning of the sandwich. 

Kanten itself is a purely fanciful 
term, so far as its application to the 
thing in question is concerned. It 
means cold weather; and the Japanese, 
who like fanciful terms for the com- 
monest objects as heartily as they like 
beautiful forms and decorations, call 
it so because it is usually made from 
December to February. For kanten 
is simply the jelly made from boiled 
seaweed. Its gathering season is from 
May to October, but July and August 
are the best months. It is a deep-sea 
product, collected from the rocks by 
divers; and the seaweed is dried on 
the shores, bleached slightly, and then 
sold to the manufacturers, who, in 
various rather elaborate processes, pro- 
duce at last the kanten as handled in 
commerce. All foreign substances must 
be removed; and this necessitates 
much handling, washing in running 
water, etc., and the spreading on bam- 
boo or reed scaffolds for bleaching. 
As they dry loose, meshed sheets are 
formed, which are presently rolled 
and boiled in fresh water, the gelatine 
falling in a thick, pulpy mass. Several 
heatings and strainings follow, each 
time through a finer mesh, till the jelly 
is ready for the trays, two feet long, 



H 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



one foot wide, and three inches deep, 
and all arranged in rows in the open 
air, resting on low supports. Several 
days are required for the perfect con- 
gealing, and a north-west wind brings 
the best results. At a certain point 
in the drying, the cutting into squares 
of various sizes is done by means of 
oblong iron frames the shape of the 
drying trays, and divided into squares 
of several sizes. Sharpened edges are 
on one face of the frame, which is in- 
serted at the side and drawn over the 
face of the jelly. The bars are then 
put, one by one, into a box a little 
larger than themselves, with a coarse- 
meshed wire netting at one end, and 
a wooden piston fitting this box is 
pushed against the bar of jelly, send- 
ing it through the grating in the 
shape of slender sticks; these and the 
blocks are subjected to further drying, 
and then are packed very closely for 
sale. 

Kanten, whether in blocks or little 
sticks, is pearly white, semi-trans- 
parent, tasteless, and odorless, and, 
like other forms of gelatine, swells only 
in cold water, requiring boiling water 
to dissolve it. The Japanese use it in 
countless ways, considering it far su- 
perior to any animal isinglass. It is 
the foundation for many forms of jel- 
lies, and is used in candies, pastry, and 
cakes. In the sizing of textiles and 
the stiffening of the warp of silks it is 
invaluable, and, also, in the clarifying 
of all liquors, in the making of moulds 
needed by workers in plaster of Paris, 
and in the scientific world as the best 
medium for all bacteriological work, 
the purest grade of stick kanten being 
required for this purpose. 

Side by side with this form of deep- 
sea food is another known to the Jap- 
anese as amanori, the prepared product 
being called asakusanori, this being 
regularly planted and cultivated, no 
other country in the world practising 
this form of agriculture. To grow it 



successfully, the ground is prepared 
for the seaweed crop by sinking, in 
the muddy bottom of water ten or 
fifteen feet deep at high tide, bundles 
of brush or bamboo, for which holes 
have first been made by fishermen 
with a conical wooden frame, having 
two upright handles by which it is 
forced into the ground. The spores of 
the seaweed become attached to the 
twigs, and grow very rapidly, being cut 
from January to March, and requiring 
fresh planting each season. 

Before the dried amanori is eaten, 
it is put over a fire to crisp it, and in 
this process the color changes to green. 
It is then ready for use, and, crushed 
in the hand, is put in sauces, broths, 
etc., as flavor, or the pieces are dipped 
in sauce and eaten alone. But the fa- 
vorite form, found throughout Japan, 
for sale at street stands, at railway 
stations, in street push-carts, and in 
equal use in private houses, is known 
as sushi, the Japanese sandwich ; and it 
is far more digestible, more savory even, 
American eaters assert, than the average 
sandwich of our own railway stations, 
though our standard is happily rising. 

On a thin sheet of the amanori, which 
takes the place of bread, a thin layer 
of boiled rice is spread, and on the rice 
strips of well- seasoned meat or fish. 
The sheet is then rolled like a jelly- 
roll cake, and slices are cut from it in 
the same manner, the whole forming 
not only a savory, but extremely nour- 
ishing form of food. 

With our enormous variety of food 
supply, we may not find it necessary 
to take to the cultivation of either 
kanten or amanori, though we already 
import large amounts, the vegetarian 
preferring it to animal gelatine, while 
it has a nutritive quality entirely lack- 
ing in the latter. A Japanese tea, 
then, may easily include the amanori 
sandwich in its menu, and so offer a 
fresh surprise to the jaded palates of 
the surprised guests. 



A Wedding in the Island of Maarken 

- By Anna Pitt Walls 



IT was a bright Sunday in June 
that I chose for my visit to the 
little triangular island of Maarken, 
situated in the Zuyder Zee, whose in- 
habitants, according to Washington 
Irving, have settled conclusively the 
long-disputed question concerning the 
situation of the Garden of Eden. 

Enclosed by a broad dyke that keeps 
out the encroaching waters of the Zee, 
these fishermen, with their families, 
live their quiet lives. The serpent of 
discontent and envy has not as yet 
penetrated their dykes, the spirit of 
unrest and greed has found no abiding- 
place within those peaceful breasts. 
Many of the women, and some of the 
men, have never ventured beyond the 
narrow limits of their island; and their 
clothes are fashioned in the same man- 
ner as were their mothers' and grand- 
mothers' before them. 

An air of unusual excitement pre- 
vailed over the community on the day 
of my visit. The young wives, with 
their babies in their arms, had congre- 
gated by the roadside, and were so 
deeply engrossed in the interesting 
ceremony about to take place that they 
paid no heed to the stranger within 
their gates, though they are wont to 
hide behind sheltering doorways when 
foreign women come to stare at them. 

Following the direction taken by the 
various groups, I found myself in front 
of the village church; and when, a few 
minutes later, a young couple in holi- 
day attire entered, I knew instinc- 
tively it was a wedding that had so 
moved the calm of this stolid Dutch 
peasantry. 

The little bride was most picturesque, 
her dark stuff skirt, over a white pet- 
ticoat, was just short enough to show 
her feet, encased in blue knit stockings 



and leather shoes, with silver buckles. 
A white spencer, over which was a 
bodice, or corselet, green in front and 
red behind, heavily embroidered in 
gold and silver thread, completed her 
toilet. These bodices are works of 
art. The embroidery is gorgeous. It 
takes years to finish one, and they are 
handed down from mother to daughter 
as heirlooms. 

Like all the women of the island, 
old and young, the bride wore a white 
cap, covering all the hair except a 
square bang in front and a long yellow 
curl on either side of the face. The 
groom's knickerbockers stood out in 
proverbial Dutch fashion. He must 
have had at least four pair under them. 
He wore a striped waistcoat over a red 
shirt, a long silver chain and collar 
buttons, also heirlooms. 

The bridal couple approached the 
altar entirely alone. The burgomaster 
met them there, addressed a few re- 
marks and questions to them, then 
extended his hands in blessing, and 
greeted first the groom, then the bride, 
and another Adam and Eve had en- 
tered the enchanted garden. Quietly, 
with not a word or sign to or from 
any one, they turned, and, hand in 
hand, left the church, and walked in 
the middle of the street to their new 
home, which, according to custom, 
the groom entered first; for he must 
be there to welcome his helpmeet, 
when she comes for the first time to 
his home, and to tell her that all he 
has is now hers. In a moment she 
followed him, both having left their 
shoes outside; for this was their sanct- 
uary. 

At a certain age, about sixteen, the 
girls of Maarken assume the Shako, or 
cap, worn by the women. This cor- 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



responds to the English girl's debut. 
After this they can "smuggle," which 
means any attention offered by young 
men is considered serious. 

In the evening, after the boats come 
in, the young men and maidens as- 
semble in the harbor, and sit in the 
boats together. When a couple be- 
come engaged, all this is changed. 
The girl stays at home, weaves and 



makes up her linen, and learns to be 
a good housewife. The man fishes, 
builds his little home, and gathers his 
household gods about him. The en- 
gagement usually lasts four or five 
years, and during this time they sel- 
dom see each other, never alone. 

Thus marriage to these simple folk, 
who live so near to nature, is a sacra- 
ment rather than a festival. 



Food: Its Chemistry and Nutritive Value 

By Elizabeth Willard Saxton 



FEW people realize the true mean- 
ing of the word "food," that 
article which is so common, yet so 
essential to every-day life, which brings 
us together three times a day to give 
pleasure or to bring discontent. It 
does not mean everything that is taken 
into the body; for only that material 
which builds and repairs and yields 
energy for internal and external rmis- 
cular work, and for maintaining tem- 
perature, deserves the name of "food." 
Tea, coffee, and extracts of meat, 
which are unable to help in giving 
nourishment and potential energy, may 
be useful in the dietary, but they can- 
not be regarded as food. 

The relative value of food may be 
considered under four tests: first, the 
percentage of each nutritive constitu- 
ent of the substance; second, the 
amount of potential energy it is capable 
of yielding; third, its digestibility and 
extent to which it is absorbed in the 
blood; and, fourth, its cost. After 
these points have been decided, it 
might be well to know if these foods 
are satisfying or not. Some foods will 
appease appetite and allay feelings of 
hunger longer than others. This sat- 
isfying power depends somewhat upon 
the amount of fat a food contains. 



Food compounds include both of the 
great classes into which chemistry 
divides all substances; namely, or- 
ganic and inorganic matter. In the 
first class are the carbonaceous and 
nitrogenous foods, and in the second 
water and the salts. The carbonaceous 
group embraces starch, sugar, and fat. 
These substances — i.e., all food con- 
taining them — supply the body with 
heat and energy. The nitrogenous 
foods are the albuminoids and proteids, 
and are found in large measure in 
meat, eggs, and milk. The cereals, 
too, which are largely carbonaceous 
in composition, furnish a small per- 
centage of protein. This group of 
foods not only give heat and energy, 
as do the carbonaceous, but also per- 
form the second function of food; 
namely, the building and repair of tis- 
sue. Inorganic food (water and salt) 
also assist in the latter function. 

It would seem, indeed, to be a mat- 
ter of indifference to the cells of the 
body whether they draw their supply 
of energy from proteid, albuminoid, 
carbohydrate, or fat, although, prob- 
ably, they can get it more rapidly and 
easily from the first three than from 
the last. Bodily heat is not a thing 
apart and required to be provided 



Food: Its Chemistry and Nutritive Value 



l 7 



for by itself, but it is an inevitable 
accompaniment of cell life. Life and 
heat are inseparable; and, in fulfilling 
its other functions in the body, a cell 
cannot help producing heat also. 

The inorganic group contains two 
substances that are important to life, — 
water and mineral salts. Water not 
only takes a very essential part in food 
formation, but it is the main compo- 
nent of the secretions and excretions 
of the body. 

When we consider that two-thirds 
the total weight of the body and about 
one-half the whole weight of food is 
water, we begin to realize its value. 
The mineral substances are compounds 
or salts of the following elements: 
sodium, potassium, calcium, magne- 
sium, iron, and phosphorus. 

These are not only tissue builders, 
but sources of energy. 

Salts are not always found free, 
but mixed with food itself, as phos- 
phorus in milk and iron in the yolk 
of egg. 

Sodium chloride is used in the body 
for the proper constitution of its 
fluids, such as hydrochloric acid; po- 
tassium for the construction of cells, 
especially red blood corpuscles, and 
the muscles; while phosphorus enters 
into the composition of all nuclei, and 
is abundantly present in the bones 
and in the central nervous system. 

Different kinds of food contain dif- 
ferent elements. Many different ele- 
ments are needed for the proper main- 
tenance of all the organs of the body. 
Thus it is well to eat a variety of food, 
that every part of the body may be kept 
in healthy condition. 

Not only variety in food must be 
taken into consideration, but the rel- 
ative value of the nourishment con- 
tained in each must be noted. 

To improve the appearance of food, 
to render it palatable, and to sterilize 
the same, cooking is necessary, and for 
this three processes may be used: con- 



vection, — that is, the diffusion of heat 
through a liquid or gas by motion of 
its parts, as in simmering; conduction, 
the transmission of heat through mat- 
ter without motion of the affected 
body as a whole, as in frying; and ra- 
diation, where the heat comes directly 
from a common centre, as in broiling. 

Cooking changes the composition of 
food. For instance, when bread is 
toasted, the starch is changed to dex- 
trin sugar. This is the cause of the 
brown color and the sweet taste. 
Sugar is changed to another form of 
sugar known as caramel; and here, 
again, the brown color is obtained, and 
flavor is developed in food. 

Albuminoids are coagulated. The 
albumen of egg will become hard and 
white in hot water. A white coating 
will form over meat, while the albu- 
men of milk is somewhat toughened. 

Cooking does not increase the digesti- 
bility of all food, although it has that 
effect on vegetable food; but the di- 
gestibility of animal food is diminished 
rather than increased by cooking. It 
is to be noted that well-cooked food 
calls forth a greater flow of gastric 
juice; and, to this extent, then, well- 
cooked food is more digestible. Albu- 
men coagulates below the boiling- 
point, usually at a temperature of 170 
F. ; and, if it be cooked above this 
temperature, the digestibility is greatly 
lessened. By experiment it is also 
found that starch can be changed at 
a temperature below the boiling-point, 
this temperature ranging from 140 
to 185 F. Fats are affected by heat 
at a high temperature, and fatty acids 
are developed. 

Other changes in food take place 
through the action of a ferment. For 
instance, in bread, where yeast is 
added, the plant feeds upon the starch 
in the flour, changing it to sugar. 
Then the sugar is changed to alcohol 
and gas, and the gas causes the bread 
to rise. When the bread is baked, the 



i8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



g- 



Igc 



plant is killed, fermentation ceases, 
and the alcohol evaporates, leaving the 
bread a light, porous substance. If 
fermentation be allowed to go on, 
acetic and lactic acid will be formed, 
and cause the bread to taste sour. 

Cooking is employed to prevent the 
decay or fermentation of food, but it is 
not always necessary. The mere ex- 
clusion of air and light wiJi accomplish 
this purpose, and for this reason fruit 
wrapped in paper will keep for days. 
Grapes are packed in cork, and eggs 
are covered with salt or lime. When 
heat is used for keeping fruit, the proc- 
ess is called preserving, when it is 
boiled with sugar, and pickling, when 
boiled with salt aud vinegar. Meats 
are kept by drying, canning, cold stor- 
age, smoking, and salting. There are 
many chemicals used for preserving 
fruits and meats, such as borax, boric 
acid, formaldehyde, etc. % 

The digestibility of food is a most 
important factor in considering its 
nutritive value, for all food must be 
changed into chyle before it can pass 
through the membranes into the blood. 
In the mouth the food goes through 
the mechanical process of being chewed, 
the main object of this being to pro- 
tect the stomach, as hard particles are 
broken up, acids are diluted, and the 
entire mass is wrapped in mucus. 
That these functions be properly per- 
formed, it is necessary to eat slowly. 
In the mouth, starch is changed to 
sugar by the action of the ferment, 
ptyalin, which is present in the saliva. 
The food then passes on to the stom- 
ach. The stomach may also be re- 
garded as a protector, for it prepares 
food for the intestines, and has four 
functions: first, to act as a reserr 
voir, allowing us to take food in con- 
siderable quantities, and only letting 
it pass into the intestines when it is 
needed; second, to reduce food to a 
semi-fluid form, — this is done by the 
action of the gastric juice and the 



movement of the stomach walls; 
thirdly, to sterilize the food by the 
antiseptic action of the hydrochloric 
acid, which is present in the gastric 
juice; and, fourth, to regulate the 
temperature of the food, as the intes- 
tines seem to be more sensitive to the 
extremes of temperature than the 
stomach itself. Cold food is difficult 
to digest, as it does not excite the 
stomach sufficiently. This is some- 
times the cause of alcoholic craving 
on the part of those who are unable to 
get hot meals. In the stomach the 
albuminoids are changed to peptones 
by the action of the ferment pepsin, 
which is in the gastric juice. There is 
also a ferment present called rennin 
that curdles milk. This is especially 
noticeable in children. The food then 
passes on to the intestines. Here all the 
starch that has not been acted upon 
in the mouth is changed to sugar by the 
ferment amalopsin of the pancreatic 
juice. All the albuminoids that have 
not been acted upon in the stomach are 
here digested by the ferment trypsin, 
changing them to peptones, and the 
steapsin emulsifies fats. All this di- 
gested food is called chyle. It is here 
where the waste material of the food is 
separated from that which furnishes 
nourishment and heat. 

The digested food passes through 
thin membranes into the blood, the 
albuminoids or peptones going 4 to build 
and repair tissue, while the starch, 
sugar, and fat go to give heat and en- 
ergy. The bile plays an important 
part in digestion, as it promotes peri- 
staltic action, and prevents putrefac- 
tive fermentation. 

Food is much adulterated. This is 
done sometimes to preserve it, but usu- 
ally to make money. Here chemistry 
is a safeguard. If we choose to analyze 
foods that come on the market, — 
canned, bottled, or prepared foods as 
they are called, — we will find most of 
them adulterated. Even the most 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



19 



common cocoa contains much starch. 
Starch from corn is put in wheat to 
cheapen it; tumeric is added to mus- 
tard to give it color; cotton-seed oil 
is added to olive oil; vinegar is often 
not vinegar at all, but simply alcohol 
poured over beech wood shavings. 

Chemistry is also a safeguard to 
improper cooking; for it teaches us 
the amount of heat necessary to make 
food most nutritious and the best fitted 
to supply the needs of the body, 
since it avoids waste, teaching how 
every part of the food may be used, 
and how left-overs may be made 
into attractive dishes. By its applica- 
tion one may avoid expensive luxuries 
of little nutritive value, and learn that 
oftentimes most nourishment is ob- 
tained from the cheapest meats and 
other foods. It further enables us to 
select with economy attractive food- 
stuffs containing the necessary ele- 
ments, in the proper proportion, for 
bodily nourishment. 

If we have knowledge of foods, their 



nutritive value and the chemistry of 
cooking, how much more will home 
life and labor be enriched! If the 
workingman, who goes off early in the 
morning, and labors hard all day, 
finds, on his return, a cold dinner, or 
the steak like leather, the potatoes 
water-soaked, and the biscuit heavy 
and hard, what wonder if he prefer a 
saloon with its free lunch of hot soup 
and a glass of beer? 

While, on the other hand, if we know 
how even the simplest thing will give 
pleasure if it is well cooked, and if the 
table be set with accessories that be- 
token comfort, culture, good taste, and 
a love of beauty, which show an inward 
and spiritual grace, the things that come 
from the kitchen will be in harmony, 
combining sustenance for the body, 
gratification for the palate, and delight 
for the eye. 

Do we not rejoice to come home to 
such happiness? There need not be, 
indeed, ought not to be, a superabun- 
dance. 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy for 
High School and College Classes 

By Mary D. Chambers 



Lesson 

Clearing Soup Stock 
Three methods of clearing a stock 
may be employed : 1 . Careful skimming 
during whole period of cooking, at in- 
tervals of thirty minutes. 2. Addition 
of raw lean beef, finely chopped, one- 
fourth to one-half pound to one quart 
of stock. 3. Addition of white of 
egg. The last process, in class as well as 
in the household, is most frequently 
used. 



VIII. 
To clear Stock with White of Egg 

Remove fat by careful skimming, and 
by afterwards wiping surface of stock 
with a napkin wrung out of boiling 
water. 

Allow the slightly beaten white and 
crushed shell of one egg to every quart 
of stock. 

Stir into cold stock, then allow to 
heat slowly, stirring gently from time 
to time until egg begins to coagulate. 



1Q 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Let come to boil, and boil five min- 
utes. 

Remove from fire, and let stand ten 
minutes. 

Strain through double damask, or 
through two or three thicknesses of 
cheese cloth, placed over fine strainer. 

Notes. — Where a small portion, say a half-cup 
of stock, is cleared by each pupil, double the 
proportionate allowance of white of egg will be 
required, and the portion needs to boil only 
one minute. 

After clearing, the stock can be seasoned 
with salt, flavored with lemon juice or rind, 
heated, and served as a clear soup. 

Royal Custard (Garnish for Clear 
Soup) 

One to three egg yolks. One half -cup 
of liquid, water, milk, or stock, well- 
seasoned. Blend as for soft custard, 
and poach in moderate oven until firm. 

For other garnishes for soups see 
"Kitchen Companion," Parloa, p. 444. 

Various Forms of Stock 

Bouillon. — A stock made from beef 
alone. 

Court Bouillon. — A stock made from 
highly flavored vegetables (e.g., onion, 
celery, carrot), cooked in a mixture of 
one part water to three of wine, or three 
parts water to one of vinegar. About 
a pound of the vegetables is allowed to 
every quart of the liquid. This is sea- 
soned with salt, peppercorns, cloves, 
and is used as a medium for the boiling 
of fish, in order to enhance the flavor. 
It may be used several times, improves 
with use, and is easily preserved. 

Consomme. — A very rich stock, made 
from beef, veal, and fowl, the liquid 
used in the decoction being bouillon. 

Glaze. — Stock boiled down to one- 
fourth its volume. Used to paint 
meats, color gravies, etc. 

Fritadella from Soup Meat 
Chop or mince the meat left over from 
making the soup stock, season highly 
with salt, pepper, finely scraped onion 



or onion juice, Worcestershire sauce, or 
Liebig's extract. Mix with an equal 
amount of mashed potato, and saute 
on hot pan. This may be, also, pressed 
into a mould, and steamed or baked. 

Corned Beef Hash 

Equal parts of cold corned beef (from 
last lesson), chopped, and mashed po- 
tato, seasoning of onion, pepper, etc. 

Mix ingredients, and moisten with a 
little stock. Spread on a hot greased 
pan, and cook until brown. Fold, 
turn out on hot platter, garnish with 
thin slices of lemon and parsley, and 
serve. 

References 

Rumford Kitchen Leaflets, No. 8. 

Chemistry of Cookery. Williams. 
Chap. IV. 

Chemistry in Daily Life. Lassar 
Cohn. pp. 84, 85. 

Appendix to Foster's Physiology. 
Sheridan Lea. "Gelatine." pp. 1199, 
1200. 

Food and its Functions. Knight, 
pp. 26, 30. 

Food and Dietetics. Hutchison, pp. 

57-64- 

Farmers' Bulletins, Nos. 23, 34, and 
Bulletin 21, Chemistry and Economy 
of Food. Atwater. pp. 74-94. 

Foods for Man. Department of 
Agriculture, p. 680. 

Questions 

What principle is involved in the 
method of clearing soup stock prac- 
tised in class to-day ? What difference 
would you expect to find in a stock 
cleared by the second method? In 
what are the methods similar? 

Compare the making of gelatine jelly 
with the making of soup stock. 

When would you add the salt in mak- 
ing soup stock? Why? 

Give the various reasons why a stock 
fails to "clear." 

Compare the nutritive value of a pint 
of soup and of the resulting soup meat. 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



21 



What changes take place in flesh after 
slaughtering, and how does this affect 
its value as food? 

Define "fibrin," "myosin," "syn- 
tonin." What other terms have you 
found substituted for these words by 
some writers ? 

Classify the various proteids so far 
dealt with in animal foods, according 
to their solubility. 

At the close of the lessons on meats 
each student is required to make a tab- 
ular list, in parallel columns, of the sub- 
stances found in a piece of (i) raw 
beef; (2) broiled steak; (3) boiled 
corned beef; (4) stock before clearing; 
(5) stock after clearing; (6) meat left 
after making stock. Indication is re- 
quired of the changes effected by cook- 
ing. 

The following paper was handed in by 
H. S., class of 1906. The words in 
italic are additions or modifications by 
instructor. 

I. Raw Meat 

1. Water. 

2. Fat. 

3. Protein. 

(a) Albuminoids: 
Myosin, insoluble. 
Albumen. 

(b) Gelatinoids: 
Ossein (?) 
Collagen. 

(c) Extractives: 
Kreatin. 

Kreatin, and traces of others. 

4. Salts, organic, chiefly phosphates. 

5. Acid, sarco-lactic. 

6. Coloring matter, hrematin. 

II. Broiled Steak 

1. Loss of some water. 

2. Decomposition of some of the fat into 
fatty acid and glycerine. Glycerine further 
decomposed into acrolein and water. Remainder 
of fat softened or melted. 



3. (a) Myosin unchanged. Albumen co- 
agulated. (6) Gelatinoids softened, (c) Fla- 
vor of extractives developed. 

4. Salts retained. 

5. Acid retained (?) 

6. Haematin changed in color. 

7. Osmazone developed by heat. 

III. Boiled Corned Beee 

1. Loss of some water. 

2. Fat softened and melted. 

3. (a) Part of the myosin dissolved in saline 
solution. Albumen coagulated, part dissolved. 
(b) Collagen gelatinized, part dissolved, (c) 
Flavor of extractives developed, some dis- 
solved. 

4. Salts partly dissolved. 

5. Acid retained (?) 

6. Saltpetre used in corning helps to retain 
red color, owing to oxidation of iron in hgema- 
tin. 

IV. Stock before Clearing , 

1. Water added. 

2. Fat melted. 

3. (a) A trace of myosin dissolved. Al- 
bumen first dissolved, then coagulated, (b) 
Collagen and ossein nearly all converted 
into gelatine and jelly formed, (c) Extractives 
dissolved, and flavor developed. 

4. Soluble salts dissolved. 

5. Acid dissolved. 

6. Color decomposed. 

V. Stock after Clearing 
1 Water present. 

2. Fat removed. 

3. (a) A trace of myosin in solution. Albu- 
men removed. (6) Gelatine present, (c) Ex- 
tractives present. 

4. Soluble salts present. 

5. Acid present. 

6. Coloring matter absent. 

VI. Soup Meat 

1. Much water lost. 

2. Most of fat dissolved. 

3. (a) Almost all the myosin present. 
(6) Much of the gelatinoids converted into 
gelatine and dissolved out. (c) Extractives 
almost entirely dissolved out. 

4. Soluble salts lost. 

5. Acid dissolved out. 

6. Coloring decomposed. 




22 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

or 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter. 

From Day to Day 

When Day-time meets the Night untold 

Across the sky, 
The sun lays each bright glory down, 

Content to die, 
The City folds its busy hands 

With weary sigh. 

The sheep are gathered to the fold 

At shepherd's will, 
The kine have all their wanderings done, 

And Earth is still, 
One star lights up the path of Night 

Beyond the hill. 

May Slumbers' hand hide from our eyes 

The rough-trod way. 
Sleep, thou art Peace to make a Past 

For ills to stay. 
From out thy house we go in calm 

To meet — a Day. 

Mrs. A D. Smith. 



A NEW VOLUME 

WITH the present June-July 
number the Cooking-School 
Magazine begins a new vol- 
ume, the tenth in succession. This 
and the August-September issue are 
double numbers. By this arrangement 
we follow the practice of the schools, 
and adapt our work somewhat to the 
conditions of the long vacation season. 
At the same time we are able to pro- 
duce more mature, complete, and satis- 
factory issues of the magazine. In 
fact, we are confident that this com- 
pliance with the spirit of vacation 
results in mutual advantage to our 
readers and ourselves. By it we gain 
inspiration anew to gather fresh ma- 
terial and make a better journal, and 
our readers are, in consequence, pre- 
sented with a more interesting bill of 
fare and given better service. 

Moreover, the practice of systematic, 
judicious recreation is a matter to 
be cultivated and enlarged. Regular 
periods of relaxation, or the summer 
outing, is in order for everybody. It is 
in accord with the spirit of the age. 
But, if any one is in absolute need of 
an occasional and well-planned vaca- 
tion, it is the mother and housekeeper. 
For her change and rest are oft-times 
imperative. Let her annual outing be 
made as sure and agreeable as possible. 
It breaks up the dulness of routine 
work, adds to contentment, and bright- 
ens the atmosphere of home life in a 
wondrous degree. Health is never to 
be lost sight of. Repose is woman's 
most graceful attainment. 



D 



DISEASE AND EDUCATION 

ISBASB in its Relation to 
Modern Education" was a 
topic of discussion at the Social 
Science Convention recently held in 
this city. And what subject can be 
more interesting or important than an 
attempt to discover what in our modern 
conditions and civilization makes for 



Editorials 



2 3 



disease, and how we can promote health ? 
The biological side of this subject was 
presented by Professor Tyler, of Am- 
herst College, who said in part: — 

"One hundred years ago the popula- 
tion of New England was scattered in 
small villages along the shores and on 
the hilltops. It was very largely of 
English stock, the toughest and most 
vigorous race which the world has ever 
known. 

"Some were fishermen or sailors, 
more were farmers. The harvest was 
often abundant, but it could be gathered 
only after the hardest labor. The 
woodpile, barn, garden, and farm fur- 
nished more physical training than the 
boy craved. Nature study was forced 
upon the child. Most of the work was 
done in the open air. 

"In 1790 only one- thirtieth of our 
population lived in towns or cities 
of over 8,000 inhabitants, in 1880 
nearly one-fourth. A more impor- 
tant fact is that most of us, as 
fast as we can, are exchanging a 
life of muscular effort in the open air 
for a sedentary life of brain labor. 
The farms are being deserted. Office, 
desk, and store are crowded. We avoid 
manual labor, if we do not despise it. 

"This revolution in our modes of life 
necessarily disturbs the balance and 
working of all our organs. Heart, 
lungs, and kidneys owe their develop- 
ment and present power to the demands 
and stimuli of the muscular system; 
and these greatly increase the effective- 
ness of our digestive and assimilative 
tissues. It is sensation and motion, 
not thought or learning, which lay the 
foundations of the brain and stimulate 
the development of all its centres." 

"There is," it is authoritatively 
stated, "a steady increase of disease as 
we ascend the so-called social scale, 
from the man who works with his heavy 
muscles only to those who rely on 
cerebral, to the practical exclusion of 
muscular work." 



In view of facts like these it seems 
that a change or modification in our 
present school curriculum is demanded. 
This change would be highly ad- 
vantageous, if it be not already im- 
perative, to the children of the lower 
grades of schools. It would make the 
playground and school garden of equal 
importance with the desk and recita- 
tion. It would mean more frequent 
pauses and longer recesses; 'that is, it 
would afford opportunity for greater 
motor activity. 

Under our modern condition of life 
there is need, it is plain, of a more 
systematic knowledge of sight, hear- 
ing, the physical system and its func- 
tions, and nutrition as related to health 
and disease. We have been taught to 
believe, as knowledge has spread, dis- 
ease has disappeared. The rule should 
be invariably true; and yet it may be 
true that "knowledge comes, but wis- 
dom lingers." Each succeeding age and 
civilization has its own problems to 
solve, its own specific ills to conquer. 
In the sparsely populated country dis- 
tricts of our land and in the masses 
close pressed within city limits are 
special conditions that do not make 
for human well-being unalloyed. 

"What is to be the future of the 
great city?" says the Christian Reg- 
ister, in a contemplative mood. "Is 
it to keep on growing and expand- 
ing through the centuries, until the 
dizzy wing of thought can no longer 
follow its course? Or w T ill it one day 
crumble and disappear, and some new 
phase of civilization take its place, 
something holier and better and more 
conducive to human progress? But, if 
the city is to exist forever, we will hope 
that the people in time may get a 
larger share of rights and privileges, 
more of beauty, more free space, 
healthier homes, aud safer, more free- 
dom from contagion, a moral and re- 
ligious education such as they do not 
now receive." 



2 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"OUTING AND RESORT" 

'Over the hills and through the valleys 
List to Nature 's wooing call. 

Seek the field, the shore, the wild wood 
Summer comes with joys for all." 



o 



F all the remarkable social 
evolutions of recent days, 
there is none more marked 
than the outing and pleasure move- 
ment. In varying seasons of the 
year, mountains and shores are 
attracting increasing thousands, the 
catering to whose wants has resulted 
in many sections in business of great 
proportions. The seashore and inland 
resorts of New England have special 
attractions which have resulted in the 
development of business which State 
bureaus report as running into millions 
per annum. The South, the lake dis- 
tricts, and the West also have their 
share in this development." 

To the significance of this phase of 
modern life we wish to add our mite of 
commendation. The custom of a yearly 
outing is becoming more universal and 
wide-spread. Everywhere people in 
larger numbers are resorting to moun- 
tain and seashore. They go earlier 
and stay later than was once the prac- 
tice. 

From other than a mercantile point 
of view the good that accrues in 
health and comfort to all classes from 
this custom is well-nigh incalculable. 
Change, life out-of-doors, physical activ- 
ity, and intimate contact with nature are 
better than a thousand tonics. These, 
as naught else, make for health, strength, 
and reserved powers of mind and 
body. 

The attractions of the city compared 
with the beauties of nature are dull and 
unsatisfying. The one is real, the 
other is artificial. The book of nature 
was surely written by the invisible 
hand. It is an ever-abiding miracle. 
The city is built by man, and it bears 
the imperfections, the stigma, and the 
shame of all things human. 



In the Life of Humboldt, the great 
naturalist, we read: "Man is a product 
of soil and climate, and is brother to 
the rocks, trees, and animals. He is 
dependent on these, and all things seem 
to point to the truth that he has evolved 
from them. Humboldt discovered very 
early in his career that the finest flowers 
grow where there are the finest birds, 
and man separated from birds, beasts, 
and flowers could not possibly sur- 
vive.' ' 

The growing tendency among the 
denizens of the city to return to the 
soil, to take increasing pleasure and 
delight in rural ways of life, is a most 
wholesome sign of the times. The 
celebration of Old Home Week is ap- 
proaching. May its observance be kept 
and enjoyed by old and young as never 
before ! 

"Do to-day's work this morning — 
to-morrow's this afternoon." 



A recipe for success: Keep your 
head cool, your feet warm, your mind 
busy. Don't worry over trifles. Plan 
your work ahead, and then stick to it, 
rain or shine. Don't waste sympathv 
on yourself. If you are a gem, some 
one will find you. 



A New York vegetarian went to a 
restaurant, and took occasion to ad- 
vertise his creed by telling a stranger 
that all meat is injurious, and that the 
human diet should be strictly vege- 
tarian. "But," replied the stranger, 
"I seldom eat meat." "You just 
ordered eggs," said the vegetarian. 
"An egg is practically meat, because it 
eventually becomes a bird." "The 
kind of eggs I eat never become 
birds," answered the stranger, quietly. 
"What," cried the vegetarian, — "what 
kind of eggs do you eat?" "Princi- 
pally boiled eggs," said the stranger. 




Pineapple, Cuban Fashion 

Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Chicken and Tomato Bouillon 

(To serve eight at Luncheon or Dinner) 

Cut half an onion and one-fourth a car- 
rot in very thin slices, and saute these in 
a little butter or dripping until yellowed 
and softened. Add part of a bay leaf, 
a "soup bag," a sprig of parsley, and a 
bit of yellow lemon rind. Let simmer 
in a pint of water half an hour. Then 
add to one quart of chicken broth with 
all the liquid that can be drained from 
a can of tomatoes. Mix with these the 
crushed shells of several eggs and the 
slightly beaten whites of two, and salt 
and pepper as needed. Stir constantly 
over the fire until the boiling-point is 
reached. Let boil five minutes. Then 
keep hot without boiling about ten 
minutes. Skim and strain through sev- 
eral folds of cheese-cloth laid over a wire 
strainer. To prepare the tomatoes, pour 



the contents of the can into a strainer 
and let stand some time to drain. 
Then take out the best pieces for some 
other purpose, and press the rest 
through the sieve for use in the soup. 
This bouillon in appearance resembles 
a delicate amber consomme, and is 
well worth a trial. 

Pineapple Served Cuban Fashion 
Select well-ripened pineapples. Pare, 

and remove the eyes. Then cut the 

fruit in lengthwise sections. 

Soft-shell Crabs Fried 
Crabs are found on all our seacoasts. 
During the spring and early summer the 
shells are shed, and the crabs are taken 
before the new ones have time to hard- 
en. vSoft-shell crabs are considered 
by many a luxury. Crabs are kept 
alive until time of cooking, usually in 



26 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



baskets or boxes of seaweed in contact 
with ice. The under side of the crab 
is lighter in color. The large claws 
are in front to protect the head: the 




Baked Potatoes 

others are back of these along the sides. 
The eyes in front are easily distinguish- 
able. The covering on the back tapers 
to a sharp point, running out on each 
side over the claws. Set the crab in 
its natural position. Take hold of one 
of the points. Turn it backward and 
scrape out the breathing organs be- 
neath. Repeat this process on the 



With the thumb and finger lift this 
point, and pull it from the crab. Also 
scrape away the spongy organs found 
beneath. Wash the crabs in cold water, 
and wipe gently with a soft 
cloth. When perfectly dry, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
roll in sifted bread crumbs, then 
dip in beaten egg. Again roll 
in bread crumbs, and fry in hot 
fat to a golden brown. Cook 
about three minutes. Serve at 
once with sauce tartare. 

Sauce Tartare 
To about three-fourths a cup 
of mayonnaise dressing add, 
when ready to serve, half a 
tablespoonful, each, of fine-chopped cu- 
cumber pickles, olives, capers, chives, 
and parsley. 

Baked Potatoes 

Scrub the potatoes with a brush, and 

bake in a hot oven. Do not, however, 

have the oven hot enough to blacken 

the skins. Make two gashes in the 




Soft Shell Crabs Alive. Fried Crabs. Crab Dressed for Cooking 

Point or apron removed in dressing Crabs 



other side. Now turn the crab on its 
back. A point of soft shell may be 
seen at the centre. Sometimes this is 
light and sometimes dark colored. 



top of each potato, one at right angles 
to the other. Then gently squeeze the 
potatoes to let out the steam. Partially 
wrap in a napkin, and serve at once. 



Seasonable Recipes 



27 



Spinach Salad with Boiled Ham 
and Eggs 

(For Luncheon or Supper) 

Cook half a peck of spinach, and, 
when cold, chop fine. 
Mix half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a 
dash of paprika, and 
five tablespoonfuls 
of olive oil. Then 
gradually beat into 
these three table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. 
Mix this dressing 
through the spinach. 
Then dispose in a 
mound on a serving dish. Surround 
with thin slices of cold, boiled ham and 
boiled eggs. 

Chicken Salad, Summer Style 

Cut the cooked chicken in neat cubes. 
For a pint of meat prepare about a cup 



at hand, break half a cup or more of 
nut meats into small pieces. When 
ready to serve, mix the chicken, drained, 
if needed, the cucumbers, drained and 
dried in a soft cloth, and the nut meats, 




Spinach Salad with Boiled Ham and Eggs 



with mayonnaise or boiled dressing, 
and turn the mixture into a salad bowl 
lined with lettuce leaves, carefully 
washed and dried. If nuts have not 
been used, garnish the top of the salad 
with one or two "hard-cooked" eggs. 
Cut the whites in sections, and use as 
the petals of a flower. Press the yolks 




Scrag End and Breast of Lamb cut for Small Family. See page 37. 

sieve as a centre for the 



of French dressing, using one table- 
spoonful of vinegar to three or four of 
oil. Mix the chicken and dressing. 
Cover, and set aside in a cool place for 
an hour or more. Pare and cut a cu- 
cumber into cubes. Let these stand in 
ice water in a cool place an hour. If 



through a 
whites. 



Plain Coffee Cake 
Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water. 
Add to a cup of scalded milk, cooled to 



28 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a lukewarm temperature. Then beat 
in flour to make a sponge. When light, 
add one-third a cup of melted butter, 




Chicken Salad, Summer Style 

one-fourth a cup of sugar, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, one egg, and flour for 
a very stiff batter. Beat thoroughly, 
and, when light, spread in a buttered 
pan. Cover, and, when light again, 
bake. When nearly baked, brush over 
with thin starch (cornstarch cooked 
in water), and sprinkle with sliced al- 
monds and sugar. Use the starch 
several times to hold the nuts on the 
cake. Dredge with sugar after apply- 
ing the starch. Cinnamon may be 
used instead of the nuts. 



an inch thick. Brush this very lightly 
with softened butter. Then fold from 
the sides toward the centre, to make 
three layers of paste. 
Across this cut strips 
three-fourths an inch 
wide. Take each sepa- 
rately, and twist from 
the ends in opposite 
directions. Dispose 
these in this shape, 
"8's," on the baking- 
pan. When light, bake 
about twenty-five 
minutes. When partly 
cold, brush over with 
a thick syrup, beaten 
until it begins to cool. A cup of sugar 
and half a cup of water will make the 
syrup. 

Brioche for Coffee Cakes, etc. 
Soften a cake of compressed yeast in 
one-fourth a cup of cold water, and stir 
in flour (taken from a pound sifted for 
these cakes) to make a dough. Knead 
thoroughly. Then drop into a small 
saucepan of lukewarm water, and let 
stand in a temperature of 70 F. 
until it rises to the top of the water, a 




Shaping Coffee Cakes, with Finished Product 



Coffee Cakes from Brioche 
Roll brioche, chilled on ice over 
night, into a sheet about one-fourth 



light, porous mass. Put the rest of 
the pound of flour into a mixing-bowl. 
Add one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, 



Seasonable Recipes 



29 



one tablespoonful of sugar, ten ounces 
(one cup and a fourth) of butter, soft- 
ened, but not melted, and four eggs. 
Beat these ingredients to a paste with 
the hand, and from the back of the 



Elderberry Blossom Fritters, 
Vienna Style 

Separate fresh elderberry blossoms 
into two or three pieces, according to 




Plain Coffee Cake. See page 27. 



bowl toward the body. When well 
blended, continue the beating, adding 
eggs, one at a time, until seven in all 
have been added (three besides those 
first used). When the ball of sponge is 
light, remove from the water with a 
skimmer, and place in the centre of the 
egg mixture. Fold the egg mixture 
over the sponge, and continue the 
folding until the two are thoroughly 
blended. Then set aside in a tempera- 



size. Dip each piece into fritter batter, 
to cover each separate floweret. Then 
drop them into deep fat, and let cook 
to a delicate brown. Serve at once, 
sprinkled with powdered sugar. 

Fritter Batter for Above 

Sift three-fourths a cup of flour, a 

teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and 

half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat one 

egg without separating the white and 




Elderberry Blossom Fritters, Vienna Style. 



ture of about 70 , to become doubled 
in bulk. Cut down, and when again 
light, but not doubled in bulk, set on 
ice to remain about twelve hours, when 
it is ready to use. 



yolk. Add half a cup of milk, and very 
gradually beat the liquid into the dry 
ingredients. When about half the milk 
has been added, beat the mixture very 
thoroughly. Then continue adding the 



3° 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



an 



hour 



milk. Let the batter stand 
or longer, before using. 

Strawberries with Crusts 
Stamp out slices of stale sponge cake 
into semicircular pieces, and spread 




St 



rawoerries 



with Crusts 



these on one side with peach, apricot, 
or orange marmalade. Dispose these 
in a circle on a serving-dish. Fill the 
centre with fresh strawberries, hulled, 
washed, if needed, and drained carefully. 
Cook a cup and a half of sugar, half a cup 
of water, and a little of the marmalade 
to a thick syrup (flavor, if desired), and 
pour this over the berries. Serve hot. 



will hold these in place. With a bis- 
cuit cutter and pencil mark out rounds 
upon the paper, that the cups and rings 
may be of uniform size. With pastry 
bag and plain tube shape rings of me- 
ringue mixture upon half of the rounds, 
and completely fill the other 
half of the rounds with me- 
ringue. Sprinkle with granu- 
lated sugar, and bake in a 
very moderate oven, until the 
mixture is cooked throughout 
and delicately colored on top. 
It should take about three- 
fourths an hour. Increase the 
heat near the end of the bak- 
ing. Invert the papers, first 
taking out the tacks, remove 
the meringues, invert, and re- 
turn to the oven to dry. Then 
press the rings upon the rounds to 
form cups. Fill with whipped cream 
and strawberries. 

Meringue Mixture 

Beat half a pound or one cup of 

white of egg to a very stiff froth. Take 

a pound, or two cups, of fine granulated 

sugar. Beat two tablespoonfuls into 




Meringue Cups with Strawberries and Cream 

Meringue Cups with Strawberries 

and Cream 
Cover hardwood an inch thick with 
strips of paper. A tack at each end 



the egg, and, when very stiff, again 
beat in two tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
Repeat a third time, and continue the 
beating until the mixture holds its 



Seasonable Recipes 



3i 



shape perfectly. Then cut and fold 
in the rest of the sugar. 

Sponge Wells with Jelly 
Make sponge drops, a recipe for 
which is given on page 360 of the Feb- 
ruary, 1905, magazine, using 
half a cup of flour. Put the 
sponge drops together in pairs 
with a butter frosting, either 
mocha or chocolate between. 
Mix half a pound of almond 
paste with the yolks of four 
eggs (two whole eggs may be 
used), and knead on a board 
dredged with confectioner's 
sugar until of a consistency to 
roll out. Then roll into a sheet. 
Cut from this strips of size to 
surround the cakes. Cut the 
upper edge in points, and press around 
the cakes, leaving an open space on top. 
Roll the paste-covered cake in cocoa, 
and fill the open spaces with currant 
jelly, sprinkling the top with chopped 
pistachio nuts. Serve with tea or coffee. 



an inch thick, fitted with a handle (as in 
i llustration) , press the ice from the mould. 

Junket Ice-cream (Vanilla) 
Heat four quarts of milk and one 
quart of double cream to ioo° F. 







k :■'-... 




zst± J^A^ 


w^n0JCk 




■^p 


. ; .Ji.- '„*; 


Jm^ 



Sponge Wells with Jelly- 
Stir in one quart of sugar, four table- 
spoonfuls (two ounces) of vanilla ex- 
tract, and four junket tablets, crushed, 
then dissolved in four tablespoonfuls 
of cold water. Mix thoroughly, and 
turn into the can of a freezer. Let 




Unmoulding- Ices Packed in Moulds with Double Covers 



Unmoulding Ices Packed in 
Moulds with Double Covers 

Remove the covers from the mould. 
Set the mould on a serving-dish, and 
with a solid piece of wood or a piece 



stand undisturbed in a warm room 
until jellied. Then cool, and freeze as 
usual. Pack in brick moulds, quart 
size, lined with paper, filling the moulds 
to overflow. Let stand an hour or 
more, packed in ice and salt. Use four 



3 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



measures of ice to one of salt. Moulds 
with double covers are preferable, and 
the quart size cuts to good advantage. 
To unmould, remove covers and press 
the ice from the mould with a block of 
hardwood the size of the mould (in- 
side measurement). Set the ice, cov- 
ered with the paper, into a cave until 
ready to serve. Will serve twenty-five. 

Junket Ice-cream (Chocolate) 
Melt one-fourth a pound of choco- 
late over hot water. Add half a cup 
of sugar, a teaspoonful of ground cin- 
namon, and boiling water to make a 
smooth paste. Stir and cook until 
glossy, adding water as needed, to 
make the mixture of a consistency to 
pour. Then dilute very gradually with 
the milk to be used for the ice-cream. 
Strain, and proceed as for junket cream 
with vanilla. 




Strawberry Ice- 
cream 

Stir one level table- 
spoonful of corn- 
starch to a smooth 
paste with a little cold 
milk, then cook in 
three cups of milk, 
scalded over hot wa- 
ter. Stir until the mix- 
ture thickens, add half 



Syrup showing density of 
about 28° 

sionally. Then add one cup of double 
cream, and turn into the can of the 
freezer. When cold, freeze to a mush. 
Then add a basket of crushed and 
strained strawberries, mixed with a 
cup of sugar, and finish freezing. 

Cherry Sauce for Lemon Sherbet 

(Bertha Ely) 

Take two dozen or more cherries, cook 

them soft with a little sugar and a glass 

of claret. When the cherries are tender, 

press them through 

a sieve 4 and chill. 

Butter Icing 

Wash half a cup 
of butter in cold wa- 
ter, to free it from 
salt. Pat, to remove 
all water. Then beat 
to a cream. Add the 
beaten yolk of an egg 
and, very gradually, 
one cup and a fourth 

a cup of sugar (if liked pretty sweet, use of confectioner's sugar. Add also coffee 
three-fourths a cup), and let cook fif- extract or an ounce of melted chocolate 
teen or twenty minutes, stirring occa- with a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 




Lemon Juice added to reduce density to about 20 on guage. See page 37 



Company Menus, June-July 

Wqz social meal in trje rjome is an ioeal preparation for gooo Digestion.— Janes. 

Wedding Breakfast 



i. 

Strawberries, French Fashion. 



Salmon Timbales. Green Peas. Rolls. 



Fried Chicken, Cream Gravy. Asparagus on Toast, Hollandaise Sauce. 



Lettuce Salad. Individual Cheese Souffles. 



Strawberry Ice-cream. Pineapple Sherbet. 
Angel Cake. Lady Fingers. Macaroons. Coffee. 



II. 

Hulled Strawberries on Swedish Rosettes, Powdered Sugar. 



Chicken-and-Tomato Bouillon. Olives. Radishes. 



Croquettes of Little Neck Clams. Cucumber Salad. 



Broiled Lamb Chops. Peas. Cress Salad. 
Sultana Roll, Claret Sauce. Bride's Cake. Little Cakes. Bonbons. Coffee. 



Wedding Reception 
i. 

Chicken Salad, Summer Style. 

Fresh Salmon Salad. Olives. Salted Nuts. 

Rolls. Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. Coffee. 

Angel Parfait, Strawberries. Assorted Cake. Fruit Punch. 

II. 

Strawberry Ice-cream. Lemon Sherbet. 

Assorted Cake. Fruit Punch. 



Picnic Dinner, July 

Co smell to a turf of frrsfj eartlj is mrjolesome for tlje boon..— Fuller. 

I. 

Sardine-and-Egg Sandwiches. 

Broiled Lamb Chops in Paper Frills. 

Potato Salad. Buttered Rolls. Olives. 

Hot Coffee. 

Apple Turnovers. Cheese. 

II. 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin. 

Fresh Salmon-and-Green Pea Salad. Olives. 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Hot Coffee. Fruit. 

III. 

Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches. Asparagus, French Dressing. 

Custard Baked in Cups. 

Sponge Cake. Lemonade. 



Menus for Children's Home. June 

(Age of Children, 6 to 15 years.) 

Wqt south foho foell masticates hjs fooo, brill thvtoe better tfjatt another tofto eats half as much 
again, but bolts it.— Dukes. 



'Breakfast 

Cereal, Milk. 

Rice Omelet, Bacon. 

Hot Corn-bread. 

Cereal Coffee. Cocoa. 

Dinner 
Boiled Fowl. Boiled Rice. 
Chicken Broth, Thickened. 

Lettuce or String Beans. 

Caramel Ice-cream (Junket). 

Cookies. 

Supper 

Boston Brown Bread or Crackers, Milk. 

Butter. Stewed Apricots. Smoked Fish. 

Cocoa. 



breakfast 

Fried Mush, Molasses. 

Graham Rolls, Butter. 

Cocoa or Cereal Coffee. 



dinner 

Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Beet Greens. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 

Supper 

Boiled Hominy, Milk. 

Bread and Butter. 

Cocoa. 

Dried Peaches, Stewed. 



breakfast 

Cereal, Milk. 

Salt Codfish, Creamed. Boiled Potatoes. 

Bread and Butter. 

Rhubarb-and-Orange Marmalade. 

Cereal Coffee or Cocoa. 

'Dinner 

Steamed Shoulder of Lamb. 

Steamed Potatoes, 
Broth, Thickened for Sauce. - 
String Beans. 
Bread Pudding. 

Supper 
Boiled Rice and Milk. 

Bread and Butter. 
Honey Cakes. Cocoa. 



'Breakfast 

Creamed Haddock. 

Hashed Potatoes. 

Fried Hominy. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Cannelon of Beef, Tomato Sauce. 

Baked Potatoes. 

String Beans. 

Cornstarch Pudding, Sugar and Milk. 

Supper 

Mock Bisque Soup. Toasted Crackers. 

Bread and Butter. 

Gingerbread. Milk. 





'Breakfast 


'Breakfast 






Cereal, Milk. 


Cereal, Milk. 






Johnny Cake. Stewed Prunes. 


Salt Codfish Balls. 






Cocoa. 


Stewed Rhubarb. 
Boston Brown Bread. 




> 


Dinner 


c Dinner 


*TJ 


< 


Macaroni and Lamb Stew 


Fresh-fish Chowder. Crackers. 


fc 


(Left-over meat, onions, potatoes, macaroni). 


Spinach. 




W 


Spinach with Slices of Egg. 


Scaloped Rhubarb and Prunes, 


> 


D 


Bread and Butter. 


Butter, Sugar. 


< 


h 


Scaloped Rhubarb. 








Supper 


Supper 






Milk Toast. 


Hot Oatmeal, Milk. 






Crackers and Milk. 


Bread and Molasses. 






Honey Cakes. 


Gingerbread. 






Cocoa. 


Cocoa. 





'Breakfast 

Cereal, Milk. 

Bananas. 

Bread and Butter. 

Cocoa. 



Dinner 

Hamburg Steak. 
Mashed Potatoes. 

New Beets. 

Hot Boiled Rice, 

Molasses. 



Supper 

Baked Potatoes, 

Cream or Butter. 

Bread and Butter. 

Stewed Prunes. 

Milk. 



Menus for a Family of Two. July 

Eftc stoeetest thing m life 
Us tfje toelrontc of a brife. 

iV. />. Willis. 

&e)atx put gour fjairti farther out than gour slcrbc bill rearij.— Scotch Proverb. 



^Breakfast 

Gluten Grits, Cream. 

PVesh Fish and Potato Cakes, Sauted. 

Cucumbers. 

Rolls. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Berries. 

c Dinner 

Broiled Beef Tenderloin. 

Asparagus, Melted Butter. 

New Potatoes. 

Steamed Rice, Sugar or Maple Syrup. 



^Breakfast 

Egg-O-See. Raspberries. 

Cream. 

Eggs Baked with Milk and Crumbs 

in Ramekins. 

Toast. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Welsh Rabbit. 

Pineapple in Sections. 

dinner 

Creamed Haddock. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Cottage Pudding, 

Hard Sauce with Pulp from Berries. 



breakfast 

Stewed Prunes. 

Vitos, Milk. 

Rice Omelet. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Clam or Fish Chowder. 

Crackers. Radishes. 

Prune-and-Nut Salad. 

c Dinner 

Dried Beef, Plain. 

New Potatoes. 

New Peas. 

Berries. Cream. 



breakfast 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 

Bananas, Milk or Cream. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lettuce-and-Fish Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Pineapple. 

c Dinner 

Veal Cutlet in Brown Sauce. 

Stringless Beans, Buttered. 

Potatoes. 

Cottage Pudding, Reheated, 

Liquid Sauce. 



breakfast 


breakfast 




Evaporated Peaches, Stewed. Cream. 


Barley Crystals. 




Grape-nuts. 


Berries, Cream. 




Eggs Poached in Milk on Toast. 


Broiled Bacon, Fried Eggs. 




Coffee. 


Muffins. Coffee. 




Luncheon 


Luncheon 


Tj 
& 


Hashed Dried Beef and Potatoes. 


Broiled Sardines on Toast, Cream Sauce. 


3 
> 


Lettuce Salad. 


Lettuce Salad. 


Coffee Ice-cream. 


Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 


*! 


c Dinner 


c Dinner 




Steamed Haddock, Egg Sauce. 


Cheese Souffle. 




New Beets, Buttered. 


Stewed Asparagus Tips. 




New Potatoes. 


String Bean Salad. 




Coffee Ice-cream. 


Individual Raspberry Shortcakes. 





'Breakfast 

Boiled Rice, Stewed Prunes, Cream. 

Creamed Sliced Beef (Dried). 

Potatoes Lyonnaise. 

Toast. Coffee. 



Luncheon 
Salt Codfish Balls. 

Lettuce Salad. 
Muffins. Berries. 



c Dinner 

Lamb Chops. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Peas.- 

Prune Whip. 



After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 

1 HE poetry of life always has a practical side to it, and most practical affairs rightly worked 
out are full of poetry. — E. P. Powell, in ' ' The Country Home. ' ' 



MANY families of two are now 
setting up housekeeping, and 
for these we give a week's 
menus, to serve in a measure as a 
working plan for a few weeks. If 
the new housekeeper has had no train- 
ing in domestic science, she would do 
well to make a study — little by little — 
of the composition of food and its cook- 
ery, with a view to gaining a practical 
knowledge of food values and the means 
of conserving them during the process 
of cooking. She will find much to 
help her in this study in some of the 
more modern cook-books. The article, 
"Food, its Chemistry and Nutritive 
Value," on page 16, will also be valu- 
able to her. Discouragement should 
not result, if the whole subject be not 
comprehended at a first reading. A 
thorough understanding of no subject 
can be gained without prolonged effort, 
but with thought and application and 
experience, little by little, the matter 
becomes a part of one's self, and food 
and feeding takes on a new and higher 
meaning. 

Under-nutrition and Over- 
nutrition 
The two mistakes into which the new 
housekeeper is most often led are under- 
feeding and over-feeding. There are 
so many things she wishes to have in 
her new home that the allowance for 



food is often drawn upon to supply 
things more highly prized; and the 
items for food are restricted to whatever 
is cheap, regardless of its composition. 
Starch is the principal compound in 
cheap foods. But there are individuals 
whose digestive organs are not tolerant 
of starch, and they are just as intoler- 
ant of fat, if it be presented as a steady 
diet. In the main, the dietary of such 
individuals needs include plainly cooked, 
fresh meat and fish, with green vege- 
tables, while fancy breads, cereals, and 
sweets, in the form of pastry, puddings, 
and cakes, are to be avoided, except on 
rare occasions. 

On the other hand, many a new 
housekeeper thinks meat, fish, and, 
possibly, eggs, the only articles having 
any considerable nutritive value, and, 
consequently, the only articles to be 
considered in eating to live. The idea 
that bulk is needed to insure the best 
digestive action is undreamed of by 
them, or, if considered at all, they think 
it is secured by these same nutritious 
articles rather than by bread with green 
and starchy vegetables. The normal 
stomach can digest a little of any kind 
of food, and health will be better, if 
monotony in selection be avoided. But 
these, and other matters of like import, 
are easily worked out, provided the de- 
sire be present to choose food in accord- 
ance with the laws of dietetics. 



After Breakfast Chat 



37 



Left-overs 
In families of two, it is often advis- 
able, even during the summer, to pre- 
pare enough of certain articles of food 
for two or more meals at one and the 
same time; but, in general, the best 
results are obtained, both as regards 
palatability and digestibility, if just 
enough of each article be prepared for 
the meal and no more. Why bake 
three potatoes when only two are eaten ? 
Why buy and cook six chops when 
four are just enough? Plan to have 
everything so perfect that every morsel 
will be eaten, and nothing thrown away. 
If vegetables be left over and are to be 
used in salads, wait until the heat has 
left them, then cover securely, and 
plan for an early reappearance on the 
table. Serve cold meat cut in thin 
slivers; and, if made dishes are at- 
tempted, discard religiously all skin 
and gristle. Apply heat indirectly, 
by means of hot sauces and the like, 
lest strong heat impair the digestibility 
of the finished product. 

Cooking in Steam Kettle 
A steam kettle is eminently desir- 
able when the number of stove lids 
available for economical cooking is 
limited, as on gas and oil stoves. In 
a properly constructed steam kettle, 
fish, vegetables, and dessert may be 
cooked at the same time without com- 
mingling of flavors. Asparagus is much 
better steamed than boiled, and in the 
Sunday dinner, given for a family of 
two, the asparagus, potatoes, and rice 
may be cooked in the steamer, leaving 
the tenderloin to be broiled, or two 
pounds from the neck and shoulder of 
lamb (see page 27) may be purchased 
at ten or eleven cents per pound, and 
then the whole dinner may be cooked 
in the steamer. On Wednesday, the 
haddock, potatoes, and cottage pudding 
call for a heated oven; but again, on 
Thursday, when the remnants of the 



cottage pudding are to be reheated, 
the steam kettle, over a single burner, 
will provide the means of cooking the 
dinner. 

Neck and Shoulder of Lamb 

The neck and shoulder of lamb, be- 
fore referred to (see illustration, page 
27), is an economical piece of meat, 
and capable of many variations in cook- 
ing. The whole piece shown in the il- 
lustration weighed about five pounds. 
The scrag, or neck end,— the fore leg is 
also on this part, — is the least desirable 
portion. This follows the rule that 
meat increases in value the further it 
is removed from the head. Either of 
these pieces (do not cut for a family of 
four or five) may be steamed, and the 
broth be thickened for a sauce; and 
they may be braised with vegetables 
or cut in pieces and cooked as a stew, a 
ragout, or a curry. 

Water Ices 
The quality of a water ice depends, in 
large measure, upon the ability to ap- 
portion the quantity of sugar used to 
the variety of fruit and to the nature 
of the ice. As, for instance, a dessert 
ice should be sweeter than a punch 
served before the game or as a bever- 
age at receptions, teas, etc. The care- 
ful cook, who wishes to secure uniform 
results in similar mixtures, will do well 
to use a syrup gauge. These cost about 
sixty cents, and with reasonable care, 
never need repair or renewal. To use 
the gauge proceed as follows : Take any 
weight of sugar and twice its weight 
of water, as one pound of sugar (two 
cups) and two pounds of water (one 
quart). Boil about twenty minutes. 
Then turn a little into a test tube, and 
note the degree at which the bulb floats. 
The syrup is at the proper density when 
the bulb floats at 2 8° (see illustration, 
page 32). As the syrup will have a 
{Continued on page 52) 



Serving Luncheon, Compromise Style 



Table Linen for Luncheon 

1 ACE-TRIMMED and elabo- 
rately embroidered table-cloths, 
^or those embellished with drawn 
work, are frequently selected for use 
on the luncheon table. But often 
the cloth is discarded, and a centre- 
piece, with individual doilies for each 
article to be set upon the table, are 
chosen. Napkins of a smaller size 
than the dinner napkin are preferred 
for this meal. Fine lace or drawn- 
work doilies, laid under the service 
plate, are quite small, affording space 
for the plate and one spoon (bouillon) 
or knife and fork, respectively. All 
other silver is set in place as needed. 
Occasionally plate doilies of fine crash, 
handsomely embroidered, are of larger 
size. 

If the cloth be lace-trimmed or or- 
namented with drawn work, a deli- 
cately tinted silk lining is generally 
used over the silence cloth, and the 
dishes, from preference, are served 
from the side. 

Style of Serving Luncheons 
A formal luncheon is usually served 
after the Russian style of service, and 
the directions given for serving dinner 
will suffice for this meal also. Family 
luncheons are often served in English 
fashion from the table; and the direc- 
tions given for Serving Breakfast will 
suffice for serving a luncheon after this 
style. The compromise style of serv- 
ing, described in the third paper of 
this series, is probably the one most 



largely in vogue for luncheons, and it 
is here described in detail. On a table, 
without cloth, the luncheon is served 
satisfactorily only after the Russian 
fashion. 

Menu 

Grape-fruit. 

Bouillon. Olives 

Oysters, Manhattan Style. 

Brown-bread Sandwiches. 

Chicken Timbales, Mushroom Sauce. 

Little Fillets of Beef, Spanish Sauce. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. 

Pulled Bread. Cheese Balls. 

Angel Parfait. Little Cakes. 

Bonbons. Coffee. 

Directions are given for serving the 
above menu up to the salad after the 
Russian style. Beginning with the 
salad, the instructions are for serving 
in the English manner. The combina- 
tion of the two styles results in what 
is known as the "compromise" style 
of service. 

Laying the Table 
We will suppose that the cloth has 
been laid according to the directions 
previously given. A bowl of flowers 
stands on a centre-piece in the centre 
of the table. Think of the ' ' plate line ' ' 
as an imaginary line extending around 
the table fifteen or sixteen inches from 
the edge. Just inside this line set 
candelabra or candles, at points equi- 
distant from each other and the centre 
of the table. Between these set dishes 
of salted almonds and bonbons. Olives, 
which are served upon bits of ice, 



The Up-to-Date Waitress 



39 



should not be placed upon the table. 
Now, according to the instructions 
previously given, set in place the fol- 
lowing items: — 

Service or place plates (ten inches in 
diameter). 

Spoons for grape-fruit. (Set these 
above the plate or first in order at the 
right.) 

Spoons for bouillon. 

Forks for oysters (those used for raw 
oysters) . 

Small forks for timbales. 

Knives and forks for fillets of beef. 

Salad forks. 

Tumblers for water. 

Glasses for wine or Apollinaris. 

Napkins. (Later on insert a roll or 
piece of bread between the folds.) 

Individual butter plates. (Supply 
balls of butter later on.) 

(Bread-and-butter plates, with 
spreaders, are less formal than the 
individual butter plates, and are re- 
served for breakfast and informal lun- 
cheons.) 

The Sideboard when Luncheon 
is announced 

When luncheon is announced, the 
following items should be in order upon 
the sideboard: — 

A carafe of chilled water, either 
with or without a bowl of ice, in bits, 
with spoon. 

Extra supply of butter. 

Extra supply of bread. 

Sandwiches to serve with oysters. 

Olives in fancy dish. 

Cruets of oil and vinegar. 

Salad fork and spoon. 

Ice-cream forks or spoons. 

Cut sugar for coffee. 

Finger-bowls on plates, doilies be- 
tween. 

The Side Table when Luncheon 

is announced 
When luncheon is announced, the 
following items (for this menu) should 



be found disposed in an orderly manner 
upon the side table : — 

Tablespoon to serve timbales. 

A carving-fork of small size and a 
tablespoon to serve the beef. 

After-dinner coffee spoons. 

A tray covered with a doily. 

Two or three napkins and towels for 
emergencies. 

The bouillon cups and plates for the 
oysters, the plates for the timbales, 
and the fillets of beef should be in the 
warming oven. 

The plates for the salad and ices 
should be in the refrigerator, prefer- 
ably on one standing in the butler's 
pantry. 

The Table when Luncheon 
is announced 
When luncheon is announced, the 
grape-fruit, prepared according to di- 
rections given in the February, 1905, 
magazine, is in place on fancy plates 
(a lace-paper doily between) set upon 
the service plates, the tumblers are 
filled to two-thirds their height with 
water or bits of ice and water, and each 
individual dish is supplied with butter. 
At a very formal dinner, the butter is 
omitted. 

Removing the Grape-fruit Course 
Beginning at the right of the hostess, 
remove the grape-fruit plates from the 
right. Remove them, one at a time, 
or one in each hand, to the pantry. 
Leave the service plate in position. 

Serving the Bouillon 
Now bring in the bouillon cups and 
saucers, one at a time, one in each 
hand or two (no more) on a tray, 
borne on the flat of the hand, a napkin 
between, as is most expedient under 
the circumstances, and set them upon 
the service plate. 

Pass the olives on a tray to the left, 
that each may help herself. 

Remove the cups and saucers from 



4 o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the right, still leaving the service plate 
in place. 

In removing soiled plates, begin with 
the individual first served. 

Serving and Clearing away the 
Oysters 

Alternate the service, and begin 
with the guest at the left of the hostess. 
Set down upon the service plates, 
from the right, the plates of oysters 
cooked in the shell. 

Pass the plate of sandwiches to the 
left of each, beginning with the one 
first served to oysters. 

Remove these plates as before, again 
leaving the service plates in place. 

Serving the Timbales 

The timbales may be disposed, in the 
pantry or kitchen, upon individual 
plates or upon one large platter. In 
the first case, set the individual plates 
upon the service plate, as before. In 
the second case, dispose the hot plates 
for the timbales upon the side table, 
then, taking one in each hand, set 
them down upon the service plate from 
the right. Return to the pantry for 
the platter of timbales, take the table- 
spoon from the side table, and put it 
on the platter, then, carrying the plat- 
ter upon a folded napkin laid upon 
the flat of the left hand, pass to the 
right of each, and serve the timbales, 
or pass to the left, and let each one 
help herself. When the waitress serves 
the timbales, there need be no break 
in the conversation. She also usually 
understands how to handle them bet- 
ter than does the guest. 

Pass bread to the left of those need- 
ing it. 

Refill tumblers with water. 

Remove the timbale plates from the 
right, leaving the service plate. 

Serving the Fillets of Beef and 

Potatoes 
Bring to the side table the hot plates 



for the fillets of beef, then, taking a 
plate in the left hand and commencing 
on the left of the hostess, take up the 
service plate and set the hot plate in 
its place. When all are thus provided 
with hot plates, bring in the fillets of 
beef with sauce on the flat of the hand, 
set a spoon upon the dish, and, passing 
to the right of each, serve the fillets. 

Return to the pantry for the dish of 
potatoes, and serve these in the same 
manner. This dish, being smaller than 
the platter of meat, if preferred, may 
be carried on the tray. 

Thus far the meal has been served 
after the Russian fashion. From now 
on, through the meal, the English 
fashion will be followed. 

Serving the Salad 

Set a silver or china tray before the 
hostess. Upon this set a bowl of let- 
tuce, carefully washed and dried, the 
salad fork and spoon, bottles of oil 
and vinegar, a dish of salt, and another 
of paprika. While the salad is being 
dressed, bring in the cold salad plates. 
Take one in each hand, set one down 
before the hostess, and, when a portion 
of salad has been placed upon it, take 
this up and set down the other plate. 
Place the dish of salad before the first 
at the right of the hostess. Now take 
another plate from the sideboard, take 
up the second prepared plate, replacing 
it with the one in the other hand, and 
set it before the second in ord*er. When 
all are served, bring in the cheese balls, 
on a plate covered with a paper doily, 
and the pulled bread, together on the 
tray, and pass to the left, that each 
may help herself. 

When this course is finished, remove 
the salad tray ; then one at a time, or one 
in each hand, the salad plates, together 
with salt and pepper cups or shakers. 

Serving the Sweet Course 
Remove the crumbs. Use a plate 
and napkin for a bare table, and the 



Vacations 



4i 



pan and knife for a draped table. 
Set the dish of parfait before the host- 
ess, with the sheer at the right. Return 
to the sideboard for two plates ; put one 
before the hostess, and, when she has 
disposed the ice upon it, replace it 
with the other plate, and set the plate 
of cream before the guest at the left 
of the hostess. 

Pass the plate of cake to the left, 
that each may help herself. Remove 
these plates, one in each hand. Bring 
in the finger-bowls on fancy plates, 
with doilies between, one in each hand. 
Set these down from the right. Pass 
the bonbons to the left, that each may 
help herself. 

Take out these plates, one in each 
hand, and bring in two coffee cups 
on a tray. Set these down from the 



right. When all are served, return 
with sugar and cream or sugar alone, 
on the tray, and pass to the left, that 
those who wish may help themselves. 

Coffee Served in Library 
The coffee is often served in the li- 
brary or reception-room. The waitress 
may bring it in, in after-dinner cups 
on a tray, and return for the sugar and 
cream, or the after-dinner coffee service 
— coffee pot with cups and sugar bowl 
(no creamer) — may be brought in on 
a larger tray, and set down on a table, 
at which the hostess seats herself to 
pour the coffee. The maid passes the 
cups on a tray, and afterwards passes 
the sugar. She remains to gather up 
the cups, and remove all traces of the 
service. 



Vacations 



"What shall you do this summer?" 

"Nothing/' I stanchly said; 
"Neither books nor Chautauqua nor Concord 
Shall claim my tired head. 

"I shall lie at length in the sunlight 
And count the pine-tree plumes, 
And fill my senses with silence 
And the odor of clover blooms. 

"I shall stand and stare, like the cattle, 
At the rim of the earth and the sky, 
Or sit in the lengthening shadows 
And see the sweet days die. 

"I shall watch the leaping squirrels 
And the patient, creeping ants, 
And learn the ways of wee wood folk 
In their unmolested haunts. 

"And perchance in the hush that follows 
The struggle to be wise, 
Some truth which was coy beforetime 
May take me by surprise." 

Henrietta R. Eliot 




Home Ideas 



AND 



Economies 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



Our Recent Visitor 

HOW I miss Harriet's hats!" said 
my irrepressible young brother-in- 
law a day or two after our guest's de- 
parture. I looked at him reprovingly, 
but in the depths of my heart I had to 
acknowledge a kindred feeling; for 
during Harriet's visit the hall table 
had always been adorned with at least 
one hat of hers. Indeed, once I counted 
three, not to mention her purse, gloves, 
parasol, umbrella, tennis racquet, and 
odd golf sticks, all of which encum- 
bered the hall for longer or shorter 
periods during her stay. She dropped 
her fancy work wherever she happened 
to be sewing, her books and letters 
wherever she read them, and her pocket- 
handkerchiefs all over the house. But 
this was insignificant when compared 
with the condition of her room. As 
we had other visitors at the time, we 
fitted up the sewing-room for her. 
It had a small closet and a capacious 
bureau, but the casual observer would 
have supposed it unprovided with 
either of these useful receptacles. 
There was a garment on and a pair of 
shoes under each chair. The radiator 
was piled high with clean laundry; 
and the top of the trunk usually stood 
open, revealing the tray filled with 
miscellaneous objects, from a pair of 
white slippers to a feather boa. Her 
bureau top was a tangle of photographs, 
brushes, soiled collars, and old letters. 
The drawers were never shut tight, and 
ends of ribbon and lace hung out in va- 
rious directions. The bed was seldom 
tidy after noon ; for Harriet would rush 
in from tennis, golf, or boating, and 



throw herself down for half an hour's rest 
before lunch, — a wise habit, no doubt, 
but one that would have been more 
agreeable to her hostess, had it been 
accompanied by the habit of removing 
her dusty boots and arranging her bed 
after she arose. It would not have 
made so much difference, had her room 
been in a less conspicuous place; but, 
as it was just at the head of the stairs, 
every member of the household had to 
pass it several times a day, and, not 
only was the door invariably open, 
but Harriet, who was the soul of hos- 
pitality and good fellowship, was given 
to hailing the passer-by, and asking 
her in. 

This was an extreme case, of course; 
but, as many otherwise charming girls 
are more or less careless in this respect, 
a word of warning may not come amiss. 

The Simpler Sunday 

IT is hardly an exaggeration to say 
that in the average family the 
chief event of Sunday i§ the dinner. 
The morning is spent in preparing it, 
and the rest of the day in recovering 
from it. Indeed, its evil effects reach 
beyond Sunday. Monday is far too 
often a time of dull wits, capricious 
appetites, and irritable nerves, as is 
particularly noticeable in schools and 
offices. It is not at all uncommon to 
hear a clerk explain his indolence by 
saying, "I ate too much yesterday." 
And the strangest part of it all is that 
such a statement seems to be consid- 
ered in the light of an excuse, as if 
over-eating on Sunday were a matter 



Home Ideas and Economies 



43 



of course, if not absolutely obligatory. 
The man who six days in the week 
has a light lunch not far from one 
o'clock, and eats his substantial meal 
at night, is naturally upset, even if he 
has the digestion of the proverbial 
ostrich, by a very heavy dinner some 
time between one and four. The 
afternoon of repletion which follows 
such a meal is neither delightful nor 
uplifting; and the Sunday dinner, as 
conventially conducted, is beneficial, 
not to the consumer, but to the market- 
man and the manufacturer of patent 
dyspepsia medicine. 

Again, let us look at it from the 
standpoint of our maids. There is, 
perhaps, no valid objection to the 
morning of preparation, although, to 
those of us of Puritan descent and 
training, it seems undesirable, if not 
actually reprehensible. At any rate, 
it is no small task to clear away after 
an elaborate dinner, and by the time 
Lena or Maggie or Ellen has finished 
her work it is late, and she is tired; 
and on a short winter day it is not 
infrequently dusk before her "after- 
noon off" begins. 

It is the custom in the various 
branches of our family to have as lit- 
tle cooking as may be done on Sunday ; 
and I think that the peace that ordi- 
narily prevails in our kitchen is largely 
due to this fact. It means careful 
planning and a busy Saturday; but 
the result is that our maids can go to 
half -past ten church, return to get our 
simple lunch, and then have a good 
long afternoon to themselves. Our 
supper has to be fairly substantial; 
but many delectable dishes can be 
made ready the day before, and the 
chafing-dish supplies all deficiencies. 
We limit our Sunday lunch to two 
plain courses. In the winter that 
means, as a rule, clear soup, and then 
a hot dish of some sort. In the sum- 
mer we usually have a salad and a 
dessert. It does not take long to serve 



a meal like this, and the tidying up 
afterward is an exceedingly small mat- 
ter. 

All of which may sound decidedly 
revolutionary; but, if you once follow 
out my suggestions, the good results 
in health alone will induce you to con- 
tinue in the same way. 

Ethel Williams. 



Crystalized Mint Leaves 

IN a former issue of this magazine, 
a recipe for crystalizing mint leaves 
was given. It called for the fresh- 
gathered mint leaves — either mint or 
spearmint — to be cleansed, and then 
dipped in a syrup of sugar and water 
that had been boiled and cooled. 
Each leaf, as dipped, was to be dredged 
with sugar, and dried on paper in the 
shade. 

A lady, who with the writer experi- 
mented on this, — the first recipe they 
had received, — on further trial evolved 
a method which she prefers. She did 
not like the taste of the uncooked 
sugar; and so she boils a syrup thick 
enough to coat the leaves well, but not 
so thick as to be hard to apply. After 
a thorough dipping the leaves are laid 
away to dry for a day or two, and then 
are dipped again in a similar syrup. 
They keep well, with no danger of the 
sugar crust falling off in patches. The 
boiled sugar also gives them a brilliance 
like the leaves seen at the best con- 
fectioners. 

A professional says that his way is 
to coat the leaves with gum arabic 
water, dry them, and then dip in a 
suitable syrup, and dry well on paraf- 
fine paper out of the sun, or in a very 
cool "warming oven," if done at home. 

As mint seems never to go out of 
favor, and as these leaves, when 
growing, are so cheap, and, when crys- 
talized, are so dear, the above hints 
may be welcomed by many who can 
easily experiment. 



44 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Flower petals are to be managed 
by the latter method. Rose petals 
and whole violets are to be dipped in 
the gum water, and more than once 
in the syrup, if necessary. Remem- 
ber it must not be hot, else the delicate 
texture, color, and flavor will not be 
retained. 

Vegetables in Convenient Form 

FOR the busy house-mother or the 
inexperienced cook it may be a 
boon to know that one may secure 
vegetables ready for soup without 
keeping a quantity on hand. It is 
very convenient, too, for campers-out 
in summer to have vegetables that 
need no washing and paring of earthy 
roots, no husking of stubborn ears, 
no shelling of innumerable pods, only 
the labor of opening a can, to find 
therein twelve well-chosen vegetables, 
combined in right proportions, — corn, 
lima beans, carrots, peas, string beans, 
cabbage, parsley, thyme, leeks, to- 
matoes, wax beans, and celery. 

A meat stock, nut or white bean 
stock, with pepper, salt, and some 
butter or cream, make at once a pal- 
atable soup. Without the stock they 
make a nice medley of vegetables, 
served hot and seasoned to taste. 
For a vegetable pie or little pate, they 
are "just the thing," when drained 
and added to a brown or a white 
sauce. 

Hungry school-children think it 
quite as good as regular soup when 
making inroads on the larder after 
outdoor exercise, and make a hearty 
lunch, after heating a can over a gas 
stove, and supplementing it with brown 
or whole-wheat bread and butter and 
some cheese. 

Another preparation is evaporated 
vegetables, a combination of five suita- 
ble for soup and ragouts, — celery, car- 
rot, onion, turnip, and parsley. These 
are most carefully selected from the 
market farms of Jersey, and at the 



factory are evaporated after being 
shredded fine. This product, like all 
dried things, requires some soaking; 
but it quickly stews tender, and is 
very appetizing. For campers these 
vegetables, being so light, would be 
more desirable than the bulkier liquid 
mixture in tins. 

Not only can both of these prepara- 
tions of vegetables be used for soups 
and patties and ragouts, but they are 
desirable for cooking fish "au court 
bouillon," and for a bed of vegetables 
when baking a large fish. The more 
tasteless white fishes are very much 
improved by being so cooked, basting 
them well with butter, and using some 
fresh red peppers in the combined 
vegetables. 

For roasting beef, a bed of vegeta- 
bles is a decided improvement to the 
gravy. Strain them out before thick- 
ening. The meat rests upon the 
chopped or sliced vegetables instead 
of upon a rack, the meat being boned 
and rolled. 

If the remnants of the beef and the 
fish are to be made into soups, then 
the vegetables cooked with them may 
go into the pot. Fish makes a very 
nice soup, when well seasoned with 
celery, parsley, etc. A salad, also, 
may be made from even a cup of frag- 
ments often scraped away. 

For the pumpkin soup now so 
popular, or pumpkin pies, which are 
always acceptable, an Waporated 
shredded pumpkin is on the market. 
Stew this, and it is ready for a pie, 
when added to the usual milk, eggs, 
and spice. Small families will appre- 
ciate this taking of the labor from the 
home, for a big squash or pumpkin 
is quite formidable, when only one or 
two pies are wanted. 

Unless living where one may raise 
vegetables, or established in a ca- 
pacious house with cellar and storage- 
room, the evaporated vegetables will 
be heartily welcomed. 



Home Ideas and Economies 



45 



Hotel Economy 

IT has long been noticed in real 
life, as well as in stories, it is the 
ability to concentrate quickly one's 
forces, even upon an unfamiliar mat- 
ter, that has made American capacity 
famous the world around. 

In hotel business, as in other things, 
situations come that call for honesty 
and effective action, combined in one 
individual. For instance, the manager 
may be robbed systematically, and 
the waste may be enormous. An hotel 
upon the Atlantic coast seemed to 
be piling up large sums on the wrong 
side of the ledger. The manager had 
faith in a man who, while a news- 
paper man, had been holding a position 
in the office of the hotel. He knew 
no more about catering for large num- 
bers of people and constructing menus 
than any other plain business man 
reared in a farming country, and later 
accustomed to market for a small fam- 
ily. Nevertheless, he was put in charge 
of the buying of the provisions. He 
said that, when he assumed charge, 
he 'did not know half what the head 
chef meant; and the general jargon 
of the under-cooks was still more con- 
fusing. For instance, a "mignon filet" 
was to him only a small steak, or a 
piece of tenderloin broiled. 

He first cut down waste by giving 
people what they liked and knew by 
name, so far as possible, excluding 
anything with a fanciful name. He 
watched the orders from day to day, 
to see how they ran, and the condition 
of any rejected dishes, to see if they 
had been sampled and disliked, or 
if they had merely been ordered to an 
excess of the appetite, and sent out 
untouched for that reason. By look- 
ing and questioning, he found that 
persons ordered at a hazard, when the 
names were foreign, and often got 
things they did not like or intend to 
order. If a meat dish or a pudding 
was plainly set forth in the menu, they 



were apt to choose more rationally, 
and be better satisfied. 

Except for terms such as "con- 
somme" and "mayonnaise," which are 
well known nowadays, he abolished 
the Frenchified menus, which, as every 
one knows, are very imperfect French, 
rightly judging that the average Amer- 
ican, even prosperous and wealthy 
ones, do not care for them. 

The result of his administration was 
that they had a house full all summer, 
feeding 25 per cent, more guests than 
in the previous year, with a saving of 
$10,000 more than before. 

Many families were from the West; 
and, before they left, they expressed 
their satisfaction with the manage- 
ment, and said that the way their 
wants had been met was an induce- 
ment for a return to that part of the 
Eastern coast the next season. 



Things are not What they Seem 

THE general inclination nowadays 
is to use things for some other 
purpose than that for which they were 
intended, whether it be heirlooms, 
reasure-trove from many lands, or 
textiles. 

For instance, we have long been 
familiar with blue ginger- jars for 
flowers, large beer-steins for pencil and 
pen holders, fish-nets for seashore cot- 
tage draperies, and the like. Here let 
me pause to warn you, — if the idea 
of the stein for your writing-desk be 
a new one, — do not stick your pens in 
point upward; for you might make 
yourself or some one else blind by 
so doing. Instead put a piece of 
chamois leather on the bottom, and 
drop your pens in point first. 

Since no one puts a spoon-holder 
on the table, — except some dear con- 
servative old grandmother who will 
cling to her own way and her own sil- 
ver, — it is well to know that one may 
use, instead, a Japanese, fish-shaped 



4 6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dish. These may be bought at any 
Oriental store. Lay your small tea- 
spoons or tiny coffee-spoons in one 
of them, and use it for your five- 
o'clock table or tea-tray, and thus be 
comfortable. Very pretty it would 
be, too, for an invalid's tray at any 
or all meals. 

Another idea is to use a long celery 
boat beside your chafing-dish, for the 
long-handled spoons necessary for it. 
In changing the pan containing rich 
sauces from the water to direct heat, 
or the stirring- spoon for the serving- 
spoon, then, indeed, is this long, nar- 
row dish, with curving sides, condu- 
cive to peace of mind — and to un- 
spotted table linen as well. 



The pail makes a double boiler for 
a custard or cereal as soon as an earthen 
bowl is set in the top. This is far more 
satisfactory than placing any bowl or 
dish in an open pan, from which the 
water boils away so much faster. The 
cover of the pail answers for a cover 
for the bowl. The expense of a sep- 
arate "farina kettle" or "double 
boiler" is thus saved, and the bowl and 
pail are useful separately. A long- 
handled agate dish may be used in- 
stead of a bowl for the top part of such 
an improvised double boiler; for it is 
more easily lifted off than a bowl, to 
keep the water replenished. This will 
atone for the handle being in the way 
sometimes. 



Pails for Light Housekeeping 

EXCEPT when in camp, few people 
use a pail for cooking, and regard 
pails as only for carrying things or, 
possibly, for storing food temporarily. 
For light housekeeping and for gas 
stoves, anywhere, pails will be found 
very convenient. A long-handled agate 
dish does not balance so well; and the 
handle protrudes dangerously, when 
one has to work in limited space. It 
gets unpleasantly hot, too, while the 
handle of a pail may be set up straight, 
kept cool and out of the way; and it 
is very easily grasped, should the con- 
tents of the pail threaten to boil over. 

An agate pail is very useful to make 
apple or cranberry sauce, as the close- 
fitting cover keeps in the steam, so 
that the fruit cooks quickly. Dump- 
lings may be made and added to a 
stew of vegetables, as well as meat. 
The writer knew of one little mother 
who made four or six dumplings on a 
platter, as she had no moulding-board 
in her tiny flat, and cooked them in her 
hot apple sauce very satisfactorily. 
Cold meat bought at a delicatessen 
store can be made into a stew, and 
dumplings be added. 



Luncheon for Twenty-five Cents 

IN a recent issue of the Ladies' Home 
Journal the editor gives an ac- 
count of his experience in Boston, 
comparing it very favorably with like 
experience in New York. Much is 
said of courtesy and the price of food 
in hotels. 

Seventy-five cents was charged in 
New York for crackers and milk for a 
child, and thirty in Boston. Of course, 
the style of the place has to be paid for. 
A reporter in Philadelphia once tried 
a breakfast of coffee, cereal, and eggs, 
all the way from the cheapest lunch 
counter to the highest-priced hotel, 
and gave an account of the food and 
service, with prices ranging from ten 
cents to a dollar and a half for the 
same items. 

About five blocks from the Ladies 1 
Home Journal building a well-served 
lunch .in a clean place can be had for 
twenty -five cents. This consists of 
eight well-prepared dishes, or a simpler 
meal of five dishes can be had for fifteen 
cents. This includes bread and butter 
as one dish. No meat or any animal 
food is served, but the soups are rich 
and well flavored, the rice is steamed 



Home Jdeas and Economies 



47 



so that every grain is separate, the bread 
is usually whole wheat, and, occasionally, 
corn muffins are served. Nuts, cheese, 
and omelets are on the bill of fare, and 
many things are especially, prepared to 
replace meat and make a perfect dietary. 
Bean and pea soups, corn chowder, 
tomato-and-nut bouillon, cream of rice 
or barley, are favorite and substantial 
beginnings that may be followed by 
vegetables in many forms, cereals, and 
several salads. Plain puddings and 
pies, made with whole wheat crusts, 
are always to be had. Dried fruits 
are stewed, and served with cream. 
Fresh fruits are stewed or baked or 
cut for salads. Figs and dates are 
used freely, and with some cereal they 
are ground fine and pressed into loaves 
and called "raw pound cake" and 
"medley." These are to be eaten with 
cream. Pineapple and grape-fruit are 
included in this very reasonable bill of 
fare. From the page devoted to so- 
called Natural Foods, or Cooked Foods, 
one may choose and blend the two 
dietaries. For instance, omitting a 
cereal and milk from the natural food 
menu, one may choose instead a hot 
pea soup, and instead of a glass of milk 
conclude with a cup of hot cocoa. No 
coffee or tea is served. Instead cereal 
coffee, milk, cocoa, apple juice, and 
grape juice are provided. Claretine is 
not wine, but grape juice served hot; 
and very nice it is on a cool day. 

Here is one choice recently made, 
and it cost but a quarter : corn chowder, 
shelled nuts of three varieties, — namely, 
pecan, English walnuts, and Brazil nuts, 
— whole- wheat bread and one muffin, 
butter and peanut butter, olives, three 
fine large ones, lettuce with mayonnaise 
dressing, tapioca pudding, sliced pine- 
apple, cocoa. 

The portions were of good size, hot 
where it should be hot, and the fruit 
was crisp and appetizingly sliced. Of 
course, the food is not brought in many 
courses. A tray is placed before one, 



so that one may combine the things as 
desired; but beverages will be brought 
at the end of the meal, or, if ordered, 
the different dishes will be cooked and 
served as wanted. One may go in and 
ask for only a five -cent soup, and get 
a fair-sized bowl of puree of beans or 
peas, with bread, without exciting sur- 
prise or notice in any way. 

It goes without saying that the room, 
which occupies the whole front of the 
building, and seats a great many, is 
crowded at the noon hour, and the seats 
are filled several times. This proves 
that physical culture and hygiene does 
not mean a few string beans and prunes 
with heavy bread once a day, but good 
food, for both masses and classes, ac- 
cessible in business centres rather than 
at inaccessible health resorts and moun- 
tain sanatoriums. And, best of all, 
quick service and low prices prevail, so 
that the growing youth and hard- 
worked young girls from stores and 
offices can avail themselves of these 
wholesome dishes rather than meat, 
fried things, and silly sweet dishes. 

Jui j a Davis Chandler. 



Receipt for Salad Dressing 

AVERY good salad dressing, and 
one that is not expensive, may be 
made in the following manner : — 

Stir one tablespoonful of flour with a 
little cold milk. Add one cup of hot 
milk, four tablespoonfuls of boiling 
water, and cook these together over hot 
water two minutes. In a separate dish, 
beat the yolks of four eggs well. Add 
one-fourth a cup of sugar, one table- 
spoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful, 
each, of salt and pepper. Beat these 
together well, and add to the first mixt- 
ure. Then remove from the fire, and 
stir the whole mixture into half a cup 
of heated vinegar, slowly. 

After this has been done, return the 
dressing to the stove, and cook for a 



4 8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



few minutes. This dressing is quite 
thick when cold, and can be placed in 
a glass jar and kept indefinitely in a 
cool place. 

Wisconsin. 

Alligator Pears 

I HAVE been interested in your 
recipes for what you called "agua 
cate," and we call alligator pears. 
We serve them in many different ways, 
but in none of the ways given in the 
magazine. We cut them in two and 
serve them with soup. Scoop out the 
meat, and put it in the soup plate. 
Then we eat them with plain salt and 
pepper. If they are not particularly 
good, we cut them into dice, and serve 
like an oyster cocktail. But the best 
way is to put the pear through a vege- 
table press, then trim and scoop out 
ripe tomatoes, and stuff them with this 
pear puree. Garnish these with rings 
of hard-cooked egg f and serve with 
lettuce and mayonnaise. Sometimes 
a little onion juice or Worcestershire 
sauce is added, but I think these spoil 
the delicate flavor of the pear. We 
would rather think of eating sugar on 
eggs than on alligator pears. 

Mrs. Wm. McKay, Jr. 
Hilo, Hawaii. 



Canning without Cooking 

I HAVE been much interested in 
the department of Home Ideas and 
Economies, and have thought that 
perhaps some one might economize 
in time if I were to tell how I can a great 
deal of fruit without cooking. Since 
using this method, I hail the canning 
season with pleasure instead of dread. 

I have canned thirty quarts of to- 
matoes that kept their shape perfectly, 
and were delightful to use during winter 
for salads, moulded in jelly, or wherever 
whole tomatoes were wanted. 

Select tomatoes perfectly fresh and 
firm, and not too ripe, of a size to pass 



into the jars without cutting. After 
removing the skins, fill the jars, add 
salt to each jar (about i teaspoonful), 
fill with boiling water, and seal at once 
with covers that have been boiling in 
a vessel on the stove. See that all 
spaces are filled with water, allowing 
no large air bubbles to remain. Screw 
down covers tight, and place jars in 
wash-boiler or canner, containing boil- 
ing water, and allow to remain until 
the water is cold. Tighten covers 
again, if necessary, and put in cool, 
dark place. 

The jars should all be fitted with 
covers, and tested, to be sure they are 
air-tight, before the fruit is put in, and 
care must be taken not to get the covers 
mixed after fitting. 

Fruit is canned in the same way, 
using boiling syrup instead of salt and 
water. In this way I successfully 
canned two hundred quarts of fruit, 
consisting of raspberries, currants, 
cherries, pared plums, grapes, soft 
peaches, and soft pears. Strawberries, 
hard peaches, hard pears, and apples 
will not keep prepared in this way. 

I have never had a single jar of fruit 
spoil, and the work of canning is re- 
duced to a minimum. The fruit re- 
tains its shape perfectly, and tastes al- 
most fresh. Mrs. A. G. Hoch. 

Storm Lake, Ia. 

Economy in Small Things 

ONE always thinks of* soap as one 
of the small leakages of a house- 
hold, and it surely is. The box of 
soap powder used about the kitchen 
sink will go twice as far if it be dis- 
solved in hot water and made into a 
kind of soft soap. Add a spoonful 
of glycerine to each quart of soft water, 
so that it will not be hard upon the 
hands, and it will make china and 
glassware bright and shining. Soap, 
dissolved in this way, and the glyc- 
erine added, will never make glass- 
ware and china appear "streaked." 



Home Ideas and Economies 



49 



A very good kitchen soap may be 
made from bits of household fat, with 
very little trouble, since it requires 
no boiling and no preparation, except 
to melt the grease. Save the fat about 
the house till there are five pounds of 
solid grease, rendering it out, a little 
at a time, by placing the bits in a pan, 
and setting it in the oven. When 
five pounds have been saved, purchase 
a can of lye, and to the contents add 
one quart and one gill of water. Allow 
this to become stone cold, then pour 
into it in a slow stream, stirring all 
the time, the five pounds of grease that 
have been made lukewarm on the back 
of the range. Have ready, before pour- 
ing the grease into the lye, some one- 
pound baking-powder cans that have 
been well greased, or rinsed in cold 
water. When it is of the consistency 
of molasses, pour at once into the cans; 
and, if it becomes thick before it has 
all been turned out, place the kettle 
on the back of the range, and let the 
soap melt again, until it is thin enough 
to pour. Set the cans away for twenty- 
four hours, then turn out the hardened 
contents, and cut into cakes about 
two inches thick. This will make a 
large number of round cakes that just 
fit the hand, and are most convenient 
for use in washing dishes, scrubbing, 
or for general kitchen use. This soap 
should be white and firm, and float 
upon the water, if it is properly made 
and the grease is not too discolored. 
A large spoonful of borax and half a 
teacup of ammonia may be added to 
the dissolved lye, if the soap is to be 
used for laundry purposes as well, 
and, if for the laundry alone, a cupful 
of kerosene or gasolene, added to the 
lye before pouring in the grease, will 
make the clothes beautifully white. 
An excellent scouring soap can be 
made by adding a little white sea sand 
to a part of the soap before it is turned 
into the cans. A toilet soap is made 
by omitting the borax and ammonia, 



and adding five cents' worth of some 
good oil that will impart a pleasing odor. 

The bluing used in the home can 
be made at little cost, ten cents' worth 
of soluble blue powder, bought of a 
druggist or grocer, making enough 
bluing to last for months. Dissolve 
the blue powder in a little cold water, 
and then pour over it two quarts of 
boiling water. Cool the liquid, strain 
and bottle, pouring some into a small 
bluing bottle for immediate use. 

The ink that is used by a family can 
also be made at small expense by using 
the recipe known as Emerson's recipe 
for ink, since it is what he used. Pur- 
chase a package of slate-colored dye, 
and moisten wiiii a little cold water. 
Pour over it half a pint of hot water, 
let cool, and bottle. This ink will be 
found a good black ink, having the 
advantage that, when spilt on the 
children's clothes, it will come out 
easily in the next wash. 

A good paste, which is, yet, inexpen- 
sive, is a necessity in any home where 
there are children, since many a rainy 
day can be put in happily with the 
paste jar, a pair of scissors, and an old 
magazine or two. Purchase five cents' 
worth of gum arabic, and turn it into 
a wide-mouthed pint jar, having a 
screw top. Fill the jar two-thirds 
full of cold water, and set away over 
night. In the morning a smooth, 
transparent jelly will be the result; 
and this should be well stirred up from 
the bottom with a stick. Let it stand 
for three nights in this way, stirring 
it up each morning, then add a few 
drops of wintergreen, to scent it nicely, 
and it is ready for use. Turn into a 
small jelly tumbler for immediate use, 
keeping the large jar air-tight. This 
paste is not at all sticky, and can be 
applied with the fingers, if necessary, 
without disagreeable results. 

For marking linen, a good indelible 
ink may be made by adding a little 
nitrate of silver to ordinarv ink. If 



5° 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



this becomes spilled in any way, soak 
in a solution of common salt, then wash 
well in ammonia water, and the stain 
will disappear. The children's caps, 
rubbers, mittens, etc., should all be 
marked in some way, to save confusion 
at home and loss at school or out of 
doors. All household linen should also 
be plainly marked, to save loss. 

For mending broken china, nothing 
can excel common white lead that can 
be bought from any painter. Moisten 
and apply to the edges as soon after 
the article is broken as possible. Tie 
firmly together, and set aside for a 
week. A piece of china so mended 
can be used and even washed, if it 
be handled with care. The white lead 
may be tinted to match any color 
of china it is to be used with, so as to 
make the break more invisible. 

A spool of white passe-partout bind- 
ing left over in framing some pictures 
will save the handling of mucilage, 
and much waste of time and temper, 
in supplying a label for every sort of 
article, from a preserve jar to a pack- 
age for the expressman. Merely 
moisten a strip of the binding, cutting 
off a piece as long as the label is to be. 
Fix into place, and then write upon 
it the name or address, or whatever 
is necessary. The plain labeling of 
packages put away in the storeroom 
will save much time and bother, and this 
is the easiest way possible to label them. 

These are but a few of the countless 
small things that the housewife may 
do to save small sums, and are offered 
merely as suggestions, each housewife 
knowing best just what the small 
leakages may be in her own particular 
household. Having discovered where 
the money is escaping a little at a 
time, it is but a step to find ways in 
which to stop the waste, and turn the 
money into more useful channels. 

Mary Taylor Ross. 



Small Table for Dinner Parties 

The King of England has adopted 
the American fashion of using small 
tables for his dinner parties. The huge 
tables which have done duty for this 
purpose for generations are to be dis- 
carded, whenever a suitable occasion 
serves, and to be replaced by smaller 
ones. 

Very much will be gained in effect, 
and the service will be immensely 
facilitated, while the new move will 
also have the advantage of solving 
some knotty points of precedence. 
A party of four at a separate table 
are able to console themselves with 
the thought that their inferiority in 
the sacred order of precedence is not 
so marked as when they are seated 
at the end of a huge table of fifty 
guests. 

This rule is to be observed at all gala 
breakfasts and luncheons. It has al- 
ready been established as the proper 
etiquette for court suppers, and, when it 
is established as the regular custom for 
the dinner table, the example is likely 
to be closely imitated by other great 
hosts and hostesses. The change will 
have a far-reaching effect, and is des- 
tined to work something like a revo- 
lution in the dining customs of the 
kingdom. 



How Generous 

I had very little ice-cream left, but 
what was in the box I divided equally 
between Edith, aged seven, and Kath- 
erine, aged five, putting it in dishes. 
I stood back to watch them en- 
joy themselves. Suddenly Katherine 
looked up at me with a sad expression 
on her face, and said: — 

"Mamma, I can't enjoy the ice-cream 
when you haven't any. Take Edith's." 
— -Boston American. 



The Delicious Ham and its Possibilities 



By T. Clementine Cummings 



IF you have ever sampled ham 
cooked in Madame Beaucaire's 
style, as we did, you will never be 
satisfied until your own hams acquire 
that same delicious flavor. It was 
cold boiled ham, cut in thin slices. As 
we came in late to lunch, the rush of 
business was over for a few hours ; and 
Madame was at leisure to sit and chat 
with us for a while, but we couldn't 
think of talking of anything else than 
ham. So she very obligingly told us 
just how she prepared her hams. She 
brought in a whole one, to show us 
how it looked when ready for the table. 
This one had been specially prepared 
to be served at a supper that evening. 
Instead of the usual paper frill, to hide 
the bone, there were stalks of celery 
clustered around it and tied in place 
with a narrow ribbon. The leafy-part 
of stalks was out. The outside skin 
had been carefully peeled off, and the 
white fat cut in Vandykes, then stuck 
full of cloves, about an inch apart. 
The garnishing was beautifully done 
with aspic jelly. The quality of it was 
clear and sparkling. Some of it had 
been tinted in a delicate green with 
spinach, and some in yellow by using 
saffron. The jelly was cut in square 
cubes, three inches in size, and piled 
up on the dish around the ham, and 
a few pieces quivered on top. Slices 
of lemon added to the pretty effect. 

So much for looks. Now for the 
taste. Says Madame: "I always buy 
a good ham, in the first place. It 
should be well rounded, plump, with 
thin, unwrinkled, pliable skin, a short 
tapering shank, small bones, and white 
fat. When you see a ham like this, you 
may rest assured that the animal from 
which it was cut has been well fed, 
cleanly kept, and quickly fatted. Large 



hams are always best, those weighing 
fifteen or sixteen pounds. A day be- 
fore the ham is to be cooked, I scour it 
with a vegetable brush and cold water 
with a trifle of borax in it. When 
baked , the ham only requires four hours 
boiling. Be sure the water entirely 
covers the ham. Let it come to a boil 
very slowly. Remove the scum as 
it rises. Then, when it begins to boil, 
add a chopped turnip and carrot, 
twelve allspice berries, two cloves of 
garlic, the outside stalks of a bunch 
of celery, twelve peppercorns, one bay 
leaf, two chopped onions, two blades 
of mace, twelve whole cloves, and a 
quart of cider; or, if that is not handy, 
use a cup of vinegar. The ham must 
not boil, only simmer slowly, as that 
is the secret of making it perfectly ten- 
der. Twenty-five minutes should be 
allowed to the pound, as most hams 
are used cold; that is, after the first 
meal, anyway. It will insure its being 
more juicy, if the ham is allowed to 
remain in the kettle liquor until it is 
nearly cold. Then lift it out, and it 
is ready to prepare and garnish for the 
table. 

' 'If you wish to bake it after boiling 
the ham the required four hours, peel 
off the skin, and roll the ham in dried 
bread crumbs, with brown sugar sifted 
in, two tablespoonfuls. Set it in a 
moderate oven, to bake four hours. 
Then take from the oven and stick in 
cloves at intervals, and return to the 
oven for another hour's baking. In 
serving, a garnish of hard-boiled eggs 
is pretty for the home table." 

"Do you ever glaze the ham?" 

"Yes, for baking. It must be allowed 

to cool after boiling, then skin, wipe 

dry, and brush all over with a beaten 

egg. Mix up with sifted cracker crumbs 



5 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a little pepper and salt, and enough 
butter to make a paste. Spread it over 
the surface evenly. Set in a moderate 
oven, and bake until a delicate brown. 
This will not require more than an 
hour; and, of course, the ham should 
previously have been thoroughly cooked 
by boiling. It is delicious served with 
a brown sauce, flavored with sherry. 

' 'Ham will keep for weeks if placed 
in a cool, dry receptacle, a chilled store- 
room or a refrigerator. After each 
carving brush the cut end with melted 
butter. This will keep the meat from 
drying." 

"What do you do with the 'scraps,' 
Madame Beaucaire, when you reach 
the bone?" 

"Why, then is your chance to dis- 
play your ingenuity. Mince the meat 
fine, and make ham croquettes, by 
adding a cup of milk and two table- 
spoonfuls of stale bread crumbs to a 
cup of the ham. Cook to a smooth 
paste. Add a few drops of onion juice, 
a tablespoonful of minced parsley, and 
the beaten yolk of an egg. When the 
mixture is cool, roll into small balls. 
Dip each in the white of an egg, then 
roll in fine cracker crumbs. Fry in 
deep fat. 

"Minced ham, a beaten egg, and a 
little cream, cooked up, makes a nice 
relish for breakfast or luncheon. Made 
the same way, but with only liquid 
enough to form a paste, you have a 
fine filling for sandwiches. For an 
omelet take a few tablespoonfuls of 
the ham, seasoned with a dash of pep- 
per and a teaspoonful of chopped 
chives or parsley, and spread between 
it, as you transfer the omelet to the 
platter. This is deliciously appetizing. 
And these hints," finished Madame, 
"are only a few of the many ways in 
which 'left-over' bits of ham can be 
used to advantage. You need never 
tire of your boiled or baked ham, as its 
table possibilities are just about un- 
limited." 



(Concluded from page 37) 
greater density when cold, the bulk 
should float at about 2 6°, when testing 
hot syrup. To this syrup, when cold, 
lemon, orange, strawberry, raspberry, 
or other fruit juices may be added to 
produce sherbets of corresponding 
names. The question that occurs at 
once is, How much of these juices are 
needed? For desserts, completed ices, 
no matter what the flavor, should have 
a uniform density of 20 (see illustra- 
tion, page 32). To secure this result, 
it is evident that more juice of one kind 
than of another would be needed; for 
the quantity of sugar and water in 
composition varies with the kind of 
fruit and, also, with the same kind of 
fruit at different times. This is why 
uniformity of result in the preparation 
of ices cannot be assured without the 
use of the syrup gauge. 

To reduce the quantity of syrup given 
above from a density of 2 8° to 20 , a 
generous cup of lemon juice is called 
for, while one and a half times to 
twice that quantity of strawberry juice 
will be needed. The average length of 
time required to boil a quart of water 
and a pint of sugar (a pound of sugar 
and two pounds of water) to 2 8° is 
about twenty minutes, counting the 
time after boiling actually begins. 

The wedding cake, shown on cover, 
was gotten up by Mrs. E. F. Mitchell 
specially for this issue of the maga- 
zine. The decorations 4 are natural 
white roses, mint and rose leaves pre- 
served by crystalization. A birthday 
cake also ornamented by Mrs. Mitchell, 
with crystalized pansy blossoms and 
leaves, will be shown in the next issue 
of the magazine. 



When you find yourself, as I daresay 
you sometimes do, overpowered as it 
were by melancholy, the best way 
is to go out and do something kind to 
somebody or other. — John Keble. 



©(Erics Anawma 



AND 



ift 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be 
cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking- School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1034. — A. H., Boston: "Can chicken 
or fish mousse be made by the recipe given 
in the April magazine for ham mousse ? How 
are almond and cocoanut milk obtained? Is 
Vienna cream sauce a pudding sauce, and with 
what kind of pudding is it served? Kindly 
explain about 'planked chicken.'" 

Chicken or Fish Mousse 
Chicken or fish mousse may be 
made by following the recipe given for 
ham mousse. Of course, as neither 
of these articles has been salted, soak- 
ing over night is not required. Use 
Bechamel sauce with chicken and Hol- 
landaise or fish Bechamel with the 
fish mousse. 

Almond or Cocoanut Milk 
Pound in a mortar a cup of almonds 
or a cup of cocoanut meat, ground fine, 
adding from time to time a tablespoon- 
ful of cold water, until the whole be- 
comes a fine smooth paste. Dilute 
with a pint of milk or water, and strain 
through a cheese-cloth, pressing out 
all that will pass through the cloth. 

Vienna Cream Sauce 
Vienna cream sauce is used for hot 
puddings in place of hard sauce, which 
it resembles somewhat. 

Planked Chicken 

A planked chicken is not usually 

cooked on a plank, though it may be 

so cooked. The chicken is dressed as 

for broiling, and is then cooked in a hot 



oven or over the coals. Often the 
chicken is cooked in a hot oven about 
twenty-five minutes. Bacon may be 
spread over the chicken during the 
cooking, or butter may be used for 
basting. Finish by holding the skin 
side, in a broiler, over the hot coals. 
Serve on a hot plank. Finish the edge 
of the plank with a narrow border of hot, 
boiled rice. For variety the rice may be 
cooked in tomato puree. Buttered as- 
paragus tips may be used to fill any open 
spaces between the chicken and rice. 



Query 1035. — Housekeeper, Boston: "Re- 
cipe for 'cheese pudding.' " 

Cheese Pudding or Custard 
Butter a small baking-dish. Put in 
a layer of bread, cut in pieces one inch 
square, with crust removed, and sprinkle 
thin-sliced cheese over the bread. Add 
a dash, each, of salt and paprika. Add 
other layers of bread and cheese, sea- 
soning as before, using in all half a 
small loaf of bread and one cup, half 
a pound, of cheese. Beat two eggs. 
Add one pint of milk, and pour the 
mixture over the bread and cheese. 
Bake about half an hour in a moderate 
oven. Unless the heat be very mod- 
erate, it were well to bake this pudding 
on several folds of paper and surrounded 
by hot water. This makes a most ex- 
cellent luncheon dish, and is especially 
good either with a simple green salad 
or stewed apples or dried fruit. 



54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Query 1036. — Mrs. B. J. T., Marlin, Texas: 
"Directions for preparing 'Marrons glaceV 
and 'a steamed Graham pudding;' a recipe for 
angel cake in which the ingredients are 
weighed, and the length of time the 'Delight 
Pudding' should be steamed." 

Marrons Glaces 
Cut a gash in each chestnut shell. 
Cook three or four minutes in boiling 
water, drain, dry off a little, and then 
add a teaspoonful of dripping, for each 
pint of nuts. Shake the pan, to oil the 
shells, then set into the oven three or 
four minutes. With a sharp penknife 
shell the nuts. The inner brown skin 
will, when the nuts are thus treated, 
adhere to the shells, leaving the nuts 
ready to cook. Let simmer in water 
until just tender. Have ready a syrup 
made of sugar and water, each equal 
in weight to the weight of the nuts. 
Add the drained nuts to the syrup, let 
simmer half an hour or longer, then 
cover and set aside until the next day. 
Reheat and simmer until the syrup 
is reduced to just enough to cover 
the nuts. A little citric or tartaric 
acid cooked in the syrup will help to 
keep it from sugaring. Flavor with 
vanilla. 

Steamed Graham Pudding 
Pass through a coarse sieve one cup 
of Graham flour, half a cup of white 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 
level teaspoonful of soda, and one 
teaspoonful of mixed spices, as cinna- 
mon, mace, and cloves. Beat one egg. 
Add half a cup of molasses and half a 
cup of sweet milk, and stir these into 
the dry ingredients. Stir in also four 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter and 
three-fourths a cup of fruit, as currants, 
sultana raisins, chopped figs, dates, or 
prunes. Steam three hours. Serve with 
hard or liquid sauce. 

Steaming Delight Pudding 
Steam this pudding about three 
hours. 



Angel Cake 

Measure out one cup of egg whites, 
half a pound in weight. Beat these 
until foamy. Add half a teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar, and beat until dry. 
Then fold in one cup (half a pound) of 
fine granulated sugar and a teaspoonful 
of vanilla extract; now fold in one cup 
of flour. Bake in an unbuttered tube 
pan, having the heat a little stronger 
than for a yellow sponge cake. Thirty 
to fifty minutes' baking will be needed, 
according to the depth of the mixture 
in the pan. Some cooks prefer to 
pass the flour and sugar together 
through a sieve several times, and then 
fold this mixture into the whites, beaten 
dry. 



Query 1037. — L. M. C, Harrisburg, Col. 
"Recipe for a white cake of a size calling for 
seven eggs." 

Elegant Cake 

Beat one cup of butter to a cream. 
Gradually beat in two cups of sugar. 
Add, alternately, half a cup of milk 
and three and one-half cups of flour, 
sifted with four level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. At the last, add the 
whites of seven eggs, beaten dry, and 
a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Bake 
in lavers or in one sheet. 



Query 1038. — Mrs. J., Natick, Mass.: "Rec- 
ipe for clam cocktails." A 

Clam Cocktails 
Have about two dozen Little Neck 
clams, freshly opened. Rinse them 
carefully in cold water, and cut in 
halves, if desired. Then set them aside 
to become chilled. Mix a teaspoonful 
of grated horseradish, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of tabasco sauce, a table- 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a 
tablespoonful, each, of lemon juice and 
vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt and 
one or two tablespoonfuls of tomato 



Queries and Answers 



55 



catsup. Mix with the clams, and serve 
in cocktail cups. Or put the pre- 
pared mixture in a cocktail cup, set 
the cup in the centre of an oyster plate, 
having the clams on the "half-shell in 
cracked ice, as when serving raw oysters. 
The clams taken on the fork are dipped 
into the cocktail mixture, and then eaten. 



Query 1039. — Mrs. W. R. C, Santa Cruz, 
Cal. : "Recipes for Bar-le-duc and maple 
mousse." 

Bar-le-duc 
For Bar-le-duc, see page 521, May, 
1905, magazine. 

Maple Mousse 
Add three-fourths a cup of maple 
syrup to a pint of double cream, then 
beat the mixture with a Dover egg- 
beater until it is thick to the bottom 
of the bowl. Turn into a mould lined 
with waxed paper, filling the mould 
to overflow. Spread a paper over the 
top, press down the cover, and bury 
in equal measures of fine-crushed ice 
and salt. 

Maple Parfait 
Heat three-fourths a cup of maple 
syrup, and turn in a fine stream onto 
the yolks of three eggs, beaten until 
thick. Cook the mixture over hot 
water, stirring constantly until thick- 
ened to coat the spoon, then beat occa- 
sionally until cold. Beat one cup of 
double cream and one cup of cream, 
poured from the top of a bottle of milk, 
until thick to the bottom of the bowl, 
then gradually fold it into the maple 
mixture, and freeze as above. This 
quantity fills a quart mould. 

Query 1040. — M. E. J., Montreal, Can.: 
"Recipe for white lady cake." 

Lady Cake (Sara Brugiere) 
Beat half a pound (one cup) of butter 
to a cream. Graduallv beat in one 



pound of sugar (two cups), then three- 
fourths a pound of flour (three cups). 
Flavor with rose-water and extract of 
bitter almond. Add, lastly, the whites 
of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. 
Bake in one or two loaves in tins lined 
with paper. 

Lady Cake (Mrs. Seely) 
Cream half a pound (one cup) of 
butter, beat in gradually one pound 
(two cups) of sugar. Add the wmites 
of sixteen eggs, beaten stiff, three- 
fourths a pound (three cups) of (pastry) 
flour, and two ounces of bitter almonds, 
blanched and pounded with rose-water 
to a fine paste. Bake in shallow tins 
in a moderate oven. 



Query 1041. — New subscriber: "Recipes 
for strawberry cocktails, frozen orange sauce, 
chicken gumbo, Southern style, whole wheat 
bread, and Green Ravigote sauce." 

Strawberry Cocktails 
Cut choice strawberries, thoroughly 
chilled, in halves or quarters. Mix with a 
combination of fruit juices, lemon, or- 
ange, pineapple, etc., and a little sugar. 
Pour over the berries disposed in cock- 
tail glasses. Wine is sometimes used 
with the fruit juice. Serve very cold 
(often they are surrounded with crushed 
ice) as a first course at luncheon. 

Frozen Orange Sauce 
Boil half a cup of water and three- 
fourths a cup of sugar to the thread 
degree. Then stir in a fine stream 
onto the beaten yolks of five or six 
eggs, beating constantly, meanwhile. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of Kirsch, half 
a cup of orange juice and pulp, and the 
juice of half a lemon. Set the dish on 
ice, and stir with a whisk until cold, then 
fold in three-fourths a cup of whipped- 
and-drained cream, and the whites of 
three eggs, beaten dry. Let stand on ice 
until ready to serve or freeze as an ice- 
cream. 



56 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Chicken Gumbo (Southern Style) 
Select a tender but not over-fat 
chicken. Singe, draw, and cut in 
small pieces. Melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter in a stew-pan. Add a chopped 
onion and two ounces of ham, cut in 
tiny pieces. Stir and cook a few mo- 
ments, then add the chicken, and cook 
until all are lightly browned. Dredge 
in one-fourth a cup of flour, mix thor- 
oughly, then add two quarts of water 
or, better, light stock, two tomatoes, 
skinned and cut in pieces, a sweet 
pepper, cut in shreds, and a sprig or 
two of parsley. Let simmer until the 
chicken is tender, then skim off the 
fat, and take out the parsley. Move 
the saucepan (which must not be iron) 
to a place where the contents will not 
boil, and sprinkle in about four table- 
spoonfuls of gumbo or file powder, 
stirring constantly, meanwhile. Add 
salt as needed, and pour into a tureen. 
Serve with a dish of plain, boiled rice. 
Press out and discard the seeds from the 
tomatoes. The flour may be omitted, 
as the file powder thickens the soup. 
A quart or less of tender green okra 
pods, cut in rings and added with the 
chicken, is a great improvement to this 
soup. This soup is often made with 
the bones and remnants of a roasted 
fowl instead of with the chicken. 

Whole-wheat Bread 

To two cups of scalded-and-cooled 
milk, or half milk and half water, 
add a yeast cake, softened in half a 
cup of lukewarm milk or water, one 
teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls 
of butter. Then stir in six or seven 
cups of flour, white and entire wheat 
half and half, turn onto a board 
dredged with flour, and knead until 
smooth and elastic. Then cover, and 
set aside in a warm place until dou- 
bled in bulk. Cut down, shape into 
loaves, and, when again nearly doubled 



in bulk (about one hour), bake about 
one hour. 

Green Ravigote Sauce (Cold) 
To a cup of mayonnaise dressing add 
half a tablespoonful, each, of chopped 
parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, and 
shallot. Tint green with a little spinach 
juice. 

Ravigote Sauce (Hot) 
Chop fine two shallots. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Let reduce one- 
half, then add a cup of white sauce 
made with stock, and finish with fine- 
chopped herbs as above. 



Query 1042.— A. H., Harlem, N.Y. : "What 
kind of soda is used in tomato soup ? ' 

Soda in Tomato Soup 
Sodium (soda), an element of the 
alkali group, is used in the household, 
in the form of sodium carbonate, sal- 
soda, or washing soda, and sodium bi- 
carbonate, or cooking soda. The al- 
kaline property is very much stronger 
in sodium carbonate, Na 2 C0 3 ioH 2 0, 
than in sodium bicarbonate, HNaC0 3 . 



Query 1043. — Mrs. R. G. H., Boston, Mass. : 
"Menus for a child about two and one-half 
years of age." 

Breakfast. 

Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Pulp of three or four Prunes. 

(Skin at discretion.) 

£wiebach . 

Milk. 

Dinner. 

Chicken Broth with Rice. 

Broiled Beef, Tenderloin. 

Asparagus Tips with Cream. 

Entire-wheat Bread and Butter. 

Strawberry Jelly 

(Seeds sifted out. Use very little sugar.) 

Supper. 

Bread and Butter. 

Junket with Sponge Cake Crumbs. 



Queries and Answers 



57 



Breakfast. 

Barley Crystals, Cream. 

Egg Poached in Milk, Served on 

Well- toasted Bread. 

Milk. 

Dinner. 

Cream of Asparagus or Spinach 

Baked Potato with Cream. 

Spinach (Sifted.) 

Boiled Custard. 

Sponge Rusks. 

Supper. 

Hot Pulled Bread. 

Milk. 

Rye Bread and Butter. 

Stewed Peaches (Dried). 

Breakfast. 

Juice of Sweet Orange. 

Gluten Grits, Cream. 

Bread and Butter. 

Dinner. 

Mutton Broth with Barley. 

Slice of Boiled Fowl. 

Macaroni with Cream. 

Bread and Butter. 

Grape Juice Thickened with Tapioca and 

Egg Whites, Cream. 

Supper. 

Hot Boiled Rice, Milk. 

Stewed Prunes. 

Bread and Butter. 

Breakfast. 

Vitos, Cream. 

Stewed Apples (Evaporated). 

Slivers of Broiled Bacon. 

Pop-over. 

Milk. 

Dinner. 

Broiled Halibut. 

Baked Potato. 

Peas. 

Prune Whip, Boiled Custard or Cream. 

Supper. 

Bread or Crackers. Milk. 

Sponge Rusks. 

Breakfast. 

Pineapple Juice. 

Boiled Rice, Cream. 

Soft Egg in the Shell. 

Milk. 



Dinner. 

Slice of Roast Beef, Cut Fine. 

Mashed Potato. 

Asparagus Tips, Platter Gravy. 

Half Frozen Raspberry Juice. 

Supper. 

Toast with Hot Cream. 

Bread and Butter. 

Milk. 



DR. C. F. LANGWORTHY, of the 
Department of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D.C., sends the following in 
reference to "green wheat soup," a 
recipe for which was asked for in Query 
1031:— 

" Griinkorn " Grits 

"Griinkorn" grits, or "grunkern" 
grits, which are very popular in west- 
ern and southern Germany, are made 
from wheat grain gathered before it is 
thoroughly ripe. Apparently, both em- 
mer and spelt, as well as ordinary 
wheat, are used for making the grits. 
The grits are sold in packages, and 
are very commonly found in German 
grocery stores, a well-known sort being 
Knorr's Griinkorn -mehl. Katharina 
Prato, in "Siiddeutsche Kiiche," 36th 
ed., Graz, 1904, p. 97, gives a recipe for 
griinkorn soup, as follows : Mix griinkorn 
grits with a small amount of cold broth 
or bouillon. Pour this into the hot 
soup, and cook for a quarter of an hour. 
Two soup spoonfuls of the grits will be 
required for a litre of soup. Beat an 
egg yolk into the hot soup, and pour 
over toasted bread, boiled rice, roll 
pancake, cut in narrow strips (pancake 
noodles), or bits of chicken, etc., and 
serve. The soup may also be made with 
water and a little salt instead of bouillon. 
When this is done, a little butter or 
slightly sour cream should, also, be 
used, or, if preferred, the soup may 
be poured over cooked macaroni, sea- 
soned with Parmesan cheese before 
serving. 



Book Reviews 


y* NY BOOK reviewed or advertised in this 

l\ magazine will be sent postpaid on receipt of 

■*■ "*" the price by the Cooking-School Magazine. 



The Country Home. By E. P. 

Powell. Cloth. Illustrated. Price, 

net, $1.50. New York: McClure, 

Phillips & Co. 

This book is dedicated to all those 
who are weary of the conventionalism 
and confinement of city life, and be- 
lieve that the birds sing and the brooks 
laugh and the trees grow and the flowers 
blossom for them, and that it is on the 
hillsides and along the valley slopes 
that they may find most of happiness, 
contentment, and prosperity. 

The author maintains that indus- 
trialism, and not mere sentiment, is 
working away from the cities country- 
ward. The mischief of packing popu- 
lation began with the introduction of 
steam power. The conditions which 
thus drew the people into masses 
reached their maximum influence about 
1904. From that date the reaction 
has been steady. The introduction of 
electricity as a motive power, the 
trolley roads, and rural telephone ser- 
vice have resulted in an evolution 
that constitutes a revolution. Urban - 
ism spreads out into suburbanism, 
and suburbanism widens to cover the 
larger part of the country, because 
the advantages of contiguity are no 
longer sufficient to overcome the ad- 
vantages of individual living. The 
close contact, the smoky air, the pinched 
freedom of action, the deprivation of 
orchard and garden, no longer seem 
tolerable, because they are unneces- 
sary. 

The volume tells all about the se- 



lection and management of the country 
home. The author's purpose is to 
help one to get acquainted with the 
trees, brooks, and birds, to develop a 
capacity for society with things, and 
to open that big book whose pages are 
pastures and forests and meadows and 
farmstead hillsides. He has little to 
do or to say about the accumulation of 
•wealth, but much of the evolution of 
a simple life, where wealth is of little 
importance. In the country our first 
aim is not to amass, but to produce, 
not so much to spend, as to create. 

We like this book, and believe it is 
just what many people are waiting to 
see. It will be helpful to many people, 
and meet the approval of many others. 
Books on country life are as popular 
to-day as romances. They indicate 
the growing interest in simpler and 
more natural ways of living. 



Manual of Exercises in Hand Sew- 
ing, and Sewing and Garment 
Drafting. By Margaret \. Blair. St. 
Paul : The Webb Publishing Company. 
Mrs. Blair is Instructor of Sewing in 
the School of Agriculture, University 
of Minnesota. 

The "Manual of Exercises" is de- 
signed for public schools and beginners. 
It gives explicit directions for every 
stitch and process of sewing, and each is 
illustrated by a picture of a sampler, 
showing the work. 

"Sewing and Garment Drafting" 
takes up the work at the stage when 
pupils have acquired a proficiency in all 



Book Reviews 



59 



kinds of stitches. A practical appli- 
cation of these is made, and a study of 
materials for sewing is outlined before 
entering upon work in garment draft- 
ing. The study of materials is of much 
value, teaching how to judge and treat 
all kinds of fabrics. The system of 
drafting is a most satisfactory one, 
such as is taught individually at large 
expense, and the directions and charts 
are so clear that no one should have any 
trouble in learning it without an in- 
structor. With this book the woman 
skilled with her needle, or able to J^e- 
come so, can readily fit herself for all 
kinds of home dressmaking and sewing. 
The work covered by these two man- 
uals is taught in the Agricultural School 
classes, which correspond to high-school 
work. 

Dainty Dishes. By Adolph Meyer. 

Cloth. Price $i .00^ New York : The 

Caterer. 

This is a new book by the author of 
the "Post-graduate Cookery Book," 
etc., who is at the present time super- 
intendent of the Knickerbocker Club 
of New York. 

The recipes are classified under the 
following headings : cold hors d'oeuvre 
and savories (33 recipes); hot hors 
d'oeuvre (33 recipes) ; fish and shell- 
fish (55 recipes); cold entrees; hot 
entrees, and miscellaneous dainty dishes 
(101 recipes); vegetables (27 recipes); 
egg dishes and cheese dishes. 

The dishes are dainty, and give an 
up-to-date epicurean touch to the ser- 
vice, but it must not be thought that 
they are too expensive for the average 
house. Many of the "made" dishes 
are, on the contrary, economical in 
preparation and very profitable to 
serve. 

The reputation of the author is 
sufficient guaranty of the excellence 
of this work. It may be styled as a 
collection of somewhat new and note- 
worthy dishes, which represent the high- 



est type of European and American 
cookery. 

Household Cookery. By E.'Crichton. 

New York: Longmans, Green & Co. 

A book of elementary principles 
and practical recipes by an English 
teacher of cookery. It is a very plain, 
simple, and comprehensive manual. 
Every item in the table of contents is 
easily accessible and available for im- 
mediate use. A compact and useful 
handbook in fewer than one hundred 
pages. 



Lake Placid Conference 
Seventh Annual Lake Placid Confer- 
ence on Home Economics is in session 
at Lake Placid Club, Adirondacks, 
N.Y., between June 26 and July 1, 1905. 
During the first five years attention 
has been concentrated on the educa- 
tional side of this work, and attendance 
has been largely limited to teachers and 
specialists. The time now seems ripe 
for placing before the public and the 
investigator the double motive im- 
plied in good health; i.e., economic 
efficiency and enjoyment of life as the 
most effective incentive to the study 
of euthenics, the science or art of right 
living. Tuesday and Wednesday will 
be devoted to reports and progress in 
course of study for elementary, sec- 
ondary, and trade schools, colleges, 
universities, home education, and out- 
lines for women's clubs. Thursday 
and Friday the food problem, personal 
hygiene and industrial problems in the 
home, with standards of routine work, 
will be discussed. A large attendance 
is invited. Conference members are 
asked to send addresses of friends to 
whom they would like to have pro- 
grammes sent, or, if wished, extra copies 
wall be furnished them. 

Expenses 
The New York Central, Boston & 
Albany, Boston & Maine, and Delaware 



6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



& Hudson Railroads will sell conference 
tickets from leading stations from 
June 15 to July 1, good for return trips 
till July 15, at one fare plus $1.00. 
Rooms at the club, ranging from $1 to $5 
a day, will be one-half price, and meals 
at co-operative cost to members, $1.50 
a day, in June and $2 a day after July 
1. Two in a room lessens expense 
materially, as there is no additional 
charge for room. Extra beds are 
25 cents a day. 

The total cost of the trip, including 
board and average room from points 
not farther than New York, Boston, 
or Buffalo, will be about $25 to $30, 
plus any excursions or other luxuries 
of travel one may choose. 

Among the subjects considered the 
latter part of the week are the following : 

Wednesday, 28 June, 8 p.m. 

"What the Government is Doing for Do- 
mestic Science Teachers." Dr. C. F. Lang- 
worthy, Ph.D., United States Department of 
Agriculture, Washington, D.C. 

"Suggestions for Home and Club Study." 
Miss Maria Parloa, Bethel, Conn. 

"Protein Metabolism in its relation to 
Dietary Standards." Otto Folin, M.D., McLean 
Hospital for the Insane, Waverley, Mass. 

"Diet as a Cause in the Increase of Chronic 
Maladies." J. H. Kellogg, M.D., Battle Creek 
Sanatorium, Mich. 

"Food Fads." Discussion. 

Thursday, 29 June, 8 p.m. 

Summary of recent investigations of Profes- 
sor Chittendon and Mr. Fletcher, of Yale Uni- 
versity : ' ' The Attitude of the Scientific Man 
toward Food Habits." Mrs. Ellen H. Rich- 
ards. 

"Diet and Health." William O. Stillman, 
Albany, N.Y. 

' ' Dietary Work with Students . " Miss I sabel 
Bevier, University of Illinois, Urbana; Miss 
Alvena Pettee, Clarkson Memorial School of 
Technology, Potsdam, N.Y. 

"Food Values in Family Menus." Miss 
Anna Barrows, Boston. 

"Hours and Sequence of Meals in Relation 
to Health, Business Requirements, and Social 
Needs." Discussion. 

Friday, 30 June, 8 p.m. 
Household Industrial Problems. 
"Safe Food, and How to get it." Mrs. 
Mary Hinman Abel, Baltimore, Md. 



"The Architect and the Housewife." Mrs. 
Ethel Fifield Brooks, New York. 

"Experimental Work toward fixed Stand- 
ards." (1) Johns Hopkins Training School, 
Miss Ross, Baltimore, Md.; (2) Simmons 
College Miss Sarah Louise Arnold, Miss S. 
Maria Elliott. 

"Standards for Routine Work." (1) In the 
Home Mrs. Lewis Kennedy Morse; (2) For 
Large Numbers, Mrs. Melvil Dewey, Lake 
Placid Club. 



Society folk of London are much 
amused at a recent misadventure of 
Lord Newtown- Butler, who is a dig- 
nified, smart-looking man, with rather 
a stiff carriage, and who is himself 
responsible for the story. 

It was a musical at-home in Bel- 
gravia, to which his lordship was in- 
vited, and, being a rainy night, he 
wore a felt hat and a long waterproof 
coat over his evening dress. The fam- 
ily butler opened the door to him, 
looked puzzled for a moment, and then 
asked tentatively, "Name, please?" 

"Lord Newtown- Butler," the reply. 

"Oh, Lord Newton's butler, are you? 
Come along, old chap, and have a drop 
of something in the housekeeper's room. 
They've got a job lot upstairs to-night, 
and your master ain't come yet, if 
you're looking for him." 

"With pleasure," said his lordship, 
who spent a chatty five minutes with 
the butler over a glass of Burton ale. 
"Much obliged to you, I'm sure, and 
now I think I'll go and h#ve a look 
at the 'job lot' in the drawing-room." 

And, to the butler's horror, his new 
acquaintance strode up the stairs, and 
was soon warmly shaking the hand of 
his hostess. 

Douglas Jerrold was asked to contrib- 
ute to a subscription fund for a needy 
author, and impatiently inquired the 
sum needed. "Well," was the response, 
" I think just four and two naughts will 
put him straight." 

"Put me down for one of the 
naughts," was the reply. 



For Summer=time Cookery 

Royal Bakinq 
Powder 



Is the Greatest of Helps. 

What so tempting to the laggard 
appetite as a light, flaky fruit short cake 
or a delicate hot biscuit ? 

Royal makes the perfect short cake, 
biscuit and muffin, and improves the 
flavor and adds to the healthfulness of 
all risen flour-foods. 

It renders the biscuit, hot-bread and 
short cake more digestible and nutri- 
tious, at the same time making them 
more attractive and appetizing. 

Royal Baking Powder is indispens- 
able for the preparation of perfect 
Summer-time foods. 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Japanese Surgeons 

We are getting a little weary of hear- 
ing how much better the Japanese do 
things, but Dr. Anita Newcomb McGee 
tells us something about Japanese 
surgeons that contains a hint to our 
own good doctors. "Their methods 
are very similar to ours," says Dr. 
McGee, "only they pay more attention 
to the whims of their patients." Just 
think what a violation of ethics it would 
be in this country for the physician 
or the nurse to pay any attention to 
the whims of a patient. If the dentist 
gets hold of your tongue instead of 
the decayed tooth, you are supposed 
to suffer and be silent, while the hos- 
pital patient who develops whims is 
apt to find himself in the ward for the 
insane. It is possible that we may 
still be able to learn something from 
the heathen. 

One would hardly have supposed that 
a distinguished Frenchman like our 
present guest, M. Rene Millet, could 
come from the land of gastronomies 
par excellence to be given at the table 
of the superintendent of the Deer 
Island Reformatory a dish which he 
pronounced ''Delicious," and which he 
had never tasted before. It was simply 
escaloped oysters; but Captain Gerrish 
will perhaps go down in his note-book 
among the benefactors of the race. 
Anyhow, he has long since earned his 
place there by his faithful and sym- 
pathetic study of the dietary and all 
other parts of his job, at Deer Island, 
of building up the physique and char- 
acter of the human flotsam and jetsam 
that drifts ashore there. — Transcript. 



Coffee Congestion 

Causes a Variety of Ails 

A happy old lady in Wisconsin says : 
"During the time I was a coffee- 



drinker I was subject to sick headaches, 
recurring every two or three weeks, and 
sometimes lasting two or three days, 
totally unfitting me for anything. 

"To this affliction was added, some 
years ago, a trouble with my heart that 
was very painful, accompanied by a 
smothering sensation and faintness. 

' ' I would be unable to lie down, but 
was compelled to sit gasping for breath 
until I was perfectly exhausted. 

" Dyspepsia, also, a few years ago came 
to make life harder to bear. I took all 
sorts of patent medicines, as well as 
doctors' prescriptions, but none of them 
helped me for any length of time. 

' 'The doctors frequently told me that 
coffee was not good for me ; but without 
coffee I felt as if I had no breakfast. I 
finally decided about two years ago to 
abandon the use of coffee entirely, and, 
as I had read a great deal about Postum 
Food Coffee, I concluded to try that for 
a breakfast beverage. 

' ' I liked the taste of it, and was partic- 
ularly pleased to notice that it did not 
'come up,' as coffee used to. I had only 
hoped that the Postum Food Coffee 
would help my digestion, but I soon 
found that it was doing much more than 
that. The bad spells with my heart 
grew less and less frequent, and finally 
ceased altogether, and I have not had 
an attack of sick headache for more 
than a year. My digestion is good, too, 
and I am thankful that I am once more 
a healthy woman. I know my wonder- 
ful restoration to health 4 came from 
quitting coffee and using Postum Food 
Coffee." Name given by the Postum 
Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 

"There's a reason," and it is this. 
Coffee has a direct action on the liver 
with some people, and causes partial 
congestion of that organ, preventing the 
natural outlet of the secretions. Then 
follow biliousness, sallow skin, head- 
aches, constipation, and finally a change 
of the blood corpuscles and nervous 
prostration. 



Everybodys 




TH 

Food 

: : r 111 

Fkffif©E 




Price 
10* 



\ITE offer you EGG-O-SEE in an inner-lined, air-tight, germ proof package, insur- 
ing absolute purity. It is the whole grain of the choicest California white 
wheat, flaked, crisped to a dainty brown, flavored with pure fruit juices. It is far more 
healthful and delicious than bread, crackers, or ordinary cereal foods. Why buy the 
slow selling kinds, which come to you 6 months to 2 years old, stale and unfit for use. 
SAFEGUARD YOUR HEALTH. BUY EGG-O-SEE. ALWAYS FRESH. 

If you can find a grocer who does not sell Egg-O-See send us his name and 10 cents, mentioning this pub- 
lication, and we will send you a full-sized package prepaid. Address the Egg-O-See Co., Quincy, 111. 

In Pacific Coast and Rocky Mountain territory, the price of Egg-O-See is 15c; two packages, 25c. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Things Worth Knowing 

That a little saucer of fresh charcoal 
kept in the refrigerator helps to keep 
it sweet. 

That sliced raw onion sandwiches are 
delicious with pressed meat of any kind 
for a picnic basket. The onions must 
be delicate in flavor and sliced ex- 
ceedingly thin. 

That a cup of diced oranges added to 
currant jelly sauce for venison or mut- 
ton gives a surprisingly pleasant flavor. 

That whipped cream heaped on a 
freshly made squash pie just before 
serving adds greatly to its appearance 
and flavor. 

That a freshly made sponge cake 
split and filled with boiled custard to 
overflowing, and frosted with boiled 
icing, is delicious. Children think so 
especially. 

That left-over lobster salad can be 
turned into a delicious entree by adding 
a little cream sauce and proceeding as 
for deviled lobster. 

That an attractive way to serve as- 
paragus tips for salad is to slip them 
through cucumber rings before they 
are placed on lettuce leaves. 

That two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
black pepper and two tablespoonfuls 
molasses and yolks of two eggs stirred 
together into a batter or paste, and 
spread on a plate, is excellent for killing 
flies. Bertha Ely. 



To Improve Baked Beans 

Add one cup of cream to a pot of 
baked beans the last hour in baking. 

Add one quart of canned tomato to 
a pot of beans, and a little sugar in- 
stead of molasses, when preparing 
beans for baking. 

Add maple syrup instead of sugar or 
molasses to sweeten them. 

Add an onion or two to a pot of 
beans as it is put into the oven. 



The wife of a missionary in Mexico 
wrote home the other day that the only 
kind of tainted money to which she ob- 
jected was that kind to which, as she 
contemplated the great needs of that 
region, she was obliged to apply the 
sad words, "T'aint ours." — Congrega- 
tionalism 



Dame Nature Hints 

When the Food is not suited 

When Nature gives her signal that 
something is wrong, it is generally with 
the food. The old dame is always faith- 
ful and one should act at once. 

To put off the change is to risk that 
which may be irreparable. An Arizona 
man says: — 

' ' For years I could not safely eat any 
breakfast. I tried all kinds of break- 
fast foods, but they were all soft, starchy 
messes, which gave me distressing head- 
aches. I drank strong coffee, too, 
which appeared to benefit me at the 
time, but added to the headaches after- 
wards. Toast and coffee were no better, 
for I found the toast very constipating. 

"A friend persuaded me to quit the 
old coffee and the starchy breakfast 
foods, and use Postum Coffee and Grape- 
nuts instead. I shall never regret tak- 
ing his advice. I began using them 
three months ago. 

' ' The change they have worked in me 
is wonderful. I now have no more of 
the distressing sensations in my stomach 
after eating, and I never ha*ve any head- 
aches. I have gained twelve pounds in 
weight, and feel better in every way. 
Grape-nuts make a delicious as well as 
a nutritious dish, and I find that Postum 
Coffee is easily digested and never pro- 
duces dyspepsia symptoms." 

Name given by Postum Company, 
Battle Creek, Mich. 

There's a reason. 

Get the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville," in each package. 



Advertisements 




BEECH-NUT BACON 
is the choicest parts of 
the most perfectly cured 
bacon, packed in glass jars, 
without a suspicion of pre- 
servative, air-tight and 
hermetically sealed so as to 
keep its original appetizing 
flavor and daintiness in- 
definitely. You will feel that 
you have never really tasted 
bacon until you have tasted 

-Nut 
Bacon 

Use it to give flavor to chops, steaks, mush- 
rooms, scallops, liver and other dishes. Use 
it for outings, camps, summer cottages, yachts 
and bungalows. Use it as plain bacou, with 
eggs or without. It is the most delicious 
bacon you ever tasted. 

It comes in most convenient form, ready 
sliced in slices of uniform size. No time is 
lost in its preparation. 

Instantly Ready and Always Good 

Mrs. Janet MacKenzie Hill, Editor of the Boston 
Cooking School Magazine, has prepared a number of 
recipes showing the great possibilities of the use of Beech- 
Nut Bacon in cooking. This little book, entitled "'Beech- 
Nut Bacon and Other Good Things," will be sent free on 
receipt of the name of your grocer. The dishes to be 
made are shown in nine colors. 

BEECH-NUT PACKING COMPANY 

Canajoharie, N. Y. 

Any one who cannot obtain Beech-Nut products easily at her 
nearest grocery, can, by sending three dollars, receive an assortment 
of the bacon, beef and conserves, express prepaid, to any place east ot 
the Mississippi and north of Richmond. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Dietetic Habits of Children 

By M. V. O'Shea, in " The Independent" 



CHILDREN in rural homes are 
always first-rate eaters. They 
partake of everything on the bill 
of fare, and they leave nothing "on their 
plates," whereas the urban child in the 
well-to-do home often fusses over the 
portion of any dish that is given him, 
and leaves the half of it uneaten. 

The only way to get a child to eat 
is to awaken his appetite by means of 
an active muscular or physical life. 
All modern studies on nutritive proc- 
esses indicate that food swallowed as 
a matter of duty is rather an injury 
than a help to the organism. The in- 
vestigations of Pavlov show that, when 
there is no appetite for food, the diges- 
tive juices-are not secreted, and diges- 
tion takes place very slowly, if at all; 
while the reverse is true when appetite 
is keen. This means that the stimulus 
to eat must come from within : it seems 
worse than useless to be constantly telling 
a person he must eat his dinner, or he will 
suffer pains and penalties of some sort. 
Perhaps it would be better to let a child 
starve of his own volition than to kill 
him by forcing unwelcome food upon him . 
It is possible that we are too solici- 
tous anyway about our children's eat- 
ing. It is entirely reasonable to sup- 
pose that nature is gradually working 
out modifications in our dietetic prac- 
tices to conform to the changed cir- 
cumstances of life. Under modern 
urban conditions, people must eat less 
than in the days of old, when subsist- 
ence was won by a hand-to-hand con- 
flict with crude nature. Most adults 
who as children lived out of doors 
much of the time, but who in mature 
life have adopted the ways of the city, 
find that their greatest problem is to 
restrain their appetites, or, more prop- 
erly, their eating habits. They are 
rather the worse off in maturity be- 
cause they got into the way of dispos- 
ing of everything set before them in 



their younger days. It is not unrea- 
sonable to suppose that children des- 
tined to live under conditions when 
the muscles will be used very little 
should form the habit of eating less 
than their parents did when they were 
young. At any rate, if we cannot fur- 
nish opportunity for our children to 
engage in muscular pursuits for a con- 
siderable part of their time, we cannot 
expect them to have vigorous appe- 
tites, since appetite, at least before 
habits get fixed, is mainly a reflex or 
symptom of muscular needs. 

Eating is one of those matters that 
ought never to be dealt with directly to 
any extent. We must rather deal with 
the conditions which determine it, and 
leave the thing itself alone very largely. 
The worst possible mode of treating it is 
to make it a task. Think of punishing 
a child for not drinking a glass of milk 
which he says he does not want ! Could 
there be any better way of setting him 
against it permanently? It would be 
wiser to make food rather difficult to 
obtain than to force it upon a child. 
There is a subtle principle of psychology 
at the basis of this method. We readily 
grow indifferent toward any article of 
food that is over-easy to obtain, unless 
we have formed definite habits with ref- 
erence to it. One great difficulty in 



To destroy disease germs and foul gases, the waste-pipes, 
sinks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot should 
be regularly purified with 




The Odorless 
Disinfectant* 

9 
Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
Address HENRY B. PLATT, 43 Cliff Street, New York 



When you write advertisers please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



Advertisements 



****************** 




CHILDREN)] 



'TEETHINc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." 



i 




/^AN be made to brighten memories of the 
^ past without fear of scratch or blemish to 
the ware, if cleaned with 

gl-ECTRo 

Zl Silver Polish g 

Silicon 

It's as harmless as the flour you eat. It makes 
old silver new— in brilliancy — and keeps new 
silver always new. At grocers and druggists. 

Trial quantity for the asking. 
Bex postpaid 15 cts. (stamps). 

"Silicon," 30 Cliff Street, New York. 



Z 



menearv • win 





W, 



.«'y. ■;.-•■ 



— the only freezer that does the work of two : Makes two 
different frozen desserts at the same time. Any two flavors ^ 
of ice cream or ices, an ice cream and an ice, or a custard and 
a sherbet made at one freezing, without any possibility of one tasting 
of the other. 

Easily and quickly done. No stiff crank to rotate, simply rock a lever to 
and fro, and read while you work. Compact, easy to clean and noiseless. 

The American Twin Freezer is the latest product 
of the makers of the Gem, Blizzard and Lightning 
freezers, and embraces their distinctive features : 
Pails with electric-welded wire hoops that cannot 
fall off ; drawn steel can bottoms that will not fall 
out ; and automatic scrapers. 

Booklet of Frozen Sweets by Mrs. Rorer, Free. 

North Bros. Mfg. Co., Philadelphia 



2 f lavo rs - 1 f r 0©z|rti 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thb Boston Cooking School Magazine . 

XV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



modern life, among a portion of our 
people, is that food is too plenty. We 
urge it on the child partly because we 
can obtain it with little effort, and he, 
more or less unconsciously, reacts 
against the thing forced upon him, 
whether it be food or anything else. A 
child ought never to hear such ex- 
pressions as "I wish you would eat 
more," or "Why don't you eat as your 
father does ? ' ' and so on ad libitum. In 
every way he should be made to feel 
that food is not over-plenty, and under 
no account should eating be regarded 
as a duty or a task or a burden. 

One factor that operates against the 
establishment of good dietetic habits in 
modern life is the excitement which fills 
every hour and minute of the day in 
many homes. There is so much that 
appeals to the child mentally that his 
attention is never relaxed so that he 
can give himself to the eating process, 
and the child needs to give this process 
a certain amount of attention. The 
boy comes to the table full of the hap- 
penings of the day, and his mind works 
on them with almost feverish inten- 
sity. His brain takes all his energy. 
Under modern conditions in some 
homes the children do all the talk- 
ing at table; and, as a conseqnence, 
they do little eating, and they easily 
acquire habits of taking less food 
than they really would take with 



relish if they were less intensely ac- 
tive intellectually and emotionally. It 
is worthy of note that often children 
will show improved appetite when there 
are guests at table, and the young ones 
must be quiet and listen. I have ob- 
served that in homes where much of 
the conversation at table is by older 
members of the family the children 
are inclined to be better eaters. Eat- 
ing is their business, not entertainment 
of their elders or argument among 
themselves. I do not mean that they 
should be too rigorously suppressed or 
be suppressed at all directly; but the 
older people for the hour spent at 
table should be most in evidence, and 
unconsciously the children will play 
their proper role. Adults have estab- 
lished habits, so that their minds can 
be active: they can sustain arguments 
and entertain those about them, and 
still they will get enough nutrition; but 
it is otherwise with children. In homes 
where the parents are leaders, so that 
the children enjoy listening to them 
and unconsciously look to them for 
entertainment during the hour at table, 
— in such homes the children will give 
themselves more fully to the business 
of eating. If the children eat at their 
own table in the nursery, then the gov- 
erness must be the leader who will, 
in her stories and narrations, furnish the 
entertainment for the hour. 




CORSET 
CLASP 




EVERY PAIR 
WARRANTED 



CLASP TOP STYLE 

For attaching to lower edge 

of Corset. 
Quickly adjusted or removed. 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

OF YOUR DEALER 

Or sample pair on receipt of price. 

Mercerized, 25 cents. Silk, 50 cents. 



THE NAME, 
is stamped on 
every loop 



GEORGE FROST COMPANY, Makers, Boston, Mass,, U.S.A. 




^When you^write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



About the Word "Worcestershire. 



*f 



Over seventy years ago, Lea & Perrins first put on the 

market a table sauce known as 



Lea & Perrins 

Worcestershire Sauce 

It has since gained a world- 
wide reputation ; therefore, 
many manufacturers have 
used the name Worcestershire, 
and some even called their 
crude imitations the " genuine." But the Original and Genu 
ine is lea & Perries' Worcestershire Sauce. Take No Imi- 
tation ! Do Not Be Deceived. 




John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 



SYLMAR OLIVE OIL 



DIRECT FROM 
THE RANCH IN 



Sylmar Olive Oil was awarded the 
Grand Prize (highest award) at the 
St. LouisWorld' s Fair in competition 
with all other olive oils. It is the 
natural oil of olives, to which noth- 
ing has been added, nor anything 
taken away. Guaranteed pure. It 
will keep longer than any other oil 
without turning rancid. We own 
the ranch, the trees, and the mill. 
"We produce this oil under the most 
favorable conditions from the finest 
ripe olives grown. 

Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the 
rich, fruity flavor of ripe California 
olives, and is most palatable. Syl- 
mar Olive Oil is absolutely the finest 
article of its kind that can be pro- 
duced, and can be purchased with 
the confidence that every bottle will 
stand the most rigid chemical anal- 
ysis and be proven absolutely free 
from adulterants. 



CALIFORNIA 




Natural Oil of Olives Perfected from 

" Blossom to Bottle " on the 
Largest Olive Ranch in the World. 



Send postoffice or express money order 
for $3.00 for three quart-size bottles, and 
we will deliver them to you express pre- 
paid. Give your grocer's or druggist's 
name, and we will offer him the agency. 
We publish a booklet containing 
physicians' directions for medicinal 
uses of olive oil, cooking receipts, 
government recommendations, de- 
scriptions of our process, and direc- 
tions for detecting adulterants in 
olive oil. We will send this booklet 
and a sample bottle of the oil to 
any address for 10c. postage. 

Two tablespoonfuls of Sylmar 01- 
iveOil contribute more nourishment 
than a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing 
the digestive organs. The body is a" 
machine which must be lubricated 
in order to run smoothly and be 
vigorous. Eat natural olive oil 
freely and pay the doctor less. 



Los Angeles Olive Growers' Ass'n, 314 Bradbury Bldg., Los Angeles, Oil. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xvii 



Household Hints 



Ice-cream 
always 

in Season 
^Spring' 

Summer 
Fall or 



Always 
Relished 
by Rich 
or Poor 
Junket 
Tablets 
Make the 
Best at 
Every Door 



We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for 10 cents, and give you the charming 
brochure, " Junket Dainties," free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



Paper to wrap Sausages 
A German editor has hit upon a new 
idea in practical journalism, says the 
London Daily Chronicle. He is mind- 
ful of the utility of his paper for mak- 
ing parcels, and especially for tying up 
the popular sausage. So he addresses 
his feminine patrons in these terms: 
"You have often complained to us, 
dear readers, and especially dear house- 
wives, that our paper smells of printer's 
ink, and is, therefore, unsuitable for 
carrying butter, sausages, and fresh 
bread. Eager to meet your wishes, 
dear friends and household fairies, we 
have decided to publish, twice a week, 
an issue which will be printed only on 
one side, so that the other will be avail- 
able for those domestic uses. And, in 
order that you shall lose no reading 
matter, these particular numbers will 
be double the ordinary size." — Phila- 
delphia Record. 

A Northern man visiting Washington 
for the recent inauguration asked for 
pie for breakfast. This astonished the 
colored waiter, who brought him Wash- 
ington pie, — namely, layer cake, — which 
in this instance had a chocolate filling. 
"See here," said the patron from the 
North, "I want George Washington's 
pie, not the Booker Washington va- 
riety." — Philadelphia Record. 



The village of Baiersdorf, which has 
the reputation of raising the finest 
horseradish in Europe, is about 
twenty-two miles south of Bamberg, 
on the line of railroad to Nuremberg. 
Horseradish is cultivated almost ex- 
clusively on about 1,335 acres of the 
moist grounds of the valley of the river 
Regnitz. 

"Why do I do that?" 

The girl who had quietly gathered 
several newspapers from the floor and 
laid them on the table, laughed and 
colored a little as she repeated her 
friend's query. 

"I'll tell you," she said. "When I 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 




Received 
Highest Award 



Gold Medal ^S 4 " 



Lowney's Cocoa is not like other cocoas, it is better. The flavor is better — 
full and delicious. It is absolutely a natural product ; no " treatment " with alka- 
lies or other chemicals in order to cheapen the process of making. No adulteration 
with flour, starch or ground cocoa shells or coloring matter — nothing but the nutri- 
tive and digestible product of the choicest Cocoa Beans. A trial will show what it is. 

Sample Can (% lb.) for 15 cts. in stamps. 

P. S. — Lowney Receipt Book telling how to make Chocolate Bonbons, Fudge, Icings, etc., at 

home, sent FREE. 

THE WALTER M. LOWNEY CO., boston, mass. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



XIX 



Household Hints 




was a child, my brother and I were al- 
ways turning the house upside down 
with our romps. Mother never eared, 
if we put things to rights again, which, 
of course, we did not always do. Then 
it was — 

" 'Caroline, put that cushion where 
it belongs.' 'Will threw it on the 
floor, mamma.' Or, 'Will, did you 
leave those books on the floor ? ' ' No'm, 
Caroline did it.' 

"My mother always looked very 
grave at this. One day, after the usual 
question and answer about a towel or 
something that had been thrown on 
the floor, she called me to her. 

"'Caroline,' she said, 'when I was a 
little girl, I was taught that it was my 
duty never to pass by a thing out of 
place without putting it in place, 
whether I or some one else had origi- 
nally misplaced it. Do you think you 
can learn that ? ' 

"Something about my mother's man- 
ner stamped the words indelibly on 
my mind. I never can forget them. 
It has grown to be a habit with me 
now to put things back whenever I 
find them out of place. I scarcely 
know I do it. And I don't want other 
people to notice it, either, for the secret 
lies in doing it so unobtrusively that 
nobody will be made uncomfortable. 

"Mother used to go about so quietly 
herself, putting things to rights after 
everybody, and saying nothing about 
it, except when she tried to correct our 
carelessness. 

"Now you know where I learned 
that 'tidy-up' habit. But I must not 
let it annoy anybody. ' ' 

"No," said her friend, "I don't 
think you ever will. Did you ever 
hear this about your blessed 'tidy-up' 
habit?— 

'"Who puts back into place a fallen bar 
Or flings a rock out of a travelled road, 
His feet are moving toward the central star, 
His name is whispered in the gods' abode.' ' ' 



"Mother would have liked 
said the first girl, wistfully. 



that, 1 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 



The Bread Your Mother 
Used to Make 



was better than the bread you 
get today because in the old 
days the flour contained more 
of the nutriment stored in the 
whole wheat berry. But neither 
your mother's bread nor the 
bread made with modern "roller 
process" flour can compare in 
nutritive value with 



Shredded Whole 
Wheat Biscuit 




which contains all the body-building elements in the whole wheat grain — 
the most perfect food given to man — and presents them in a form that can 
be assimilated by the most delicate stomach. The wheat is steam-cooked 
so as to make the starch granules soluble and then drawn into fine porous 
shreds which quickly take up the saliva and the gastric juices of the 
stomach, thus insuring perfect digestion. The Biscuit is made light 
without yeast, fats, baking powders or chemicals of any kind. It is 

" Bread without Flour " 

made in the cleanest, largest and most hygienic building in the world 
devoted to food manufacture. 

C It is delicious for breakfast with hot or cold milk or cream or in com- 
bination with fruits, vegetables* eggs or oysters. C Do you know TRIS- 
CUIT? It is the new Shredded Wheat cracker, eaten as toast with 
butter, with cheese, preserves, tea or chocolate. C Our " Vital Question 
CooK. "BooK" is sent free. Write today. 

THE NATURAL FOOD COMPANY 

Niagara Falls. N. Y. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking^School Magazine. 

xxi 



Household Hints 




; in ten minutes simply stir the contents of 
/ one package of 

Jell=0 Ice=cream Powder 

I into a quart of milk and freeze. No cooking; 
i nothing else to add. Perfectly pure and 
i wholesome. Approved by the Pure Food 
| Commissioners. Highest Award at St. 
j Louis Exposition. The best fanilies in the 
/ land are using it. Costs next to nothing. 
/ Four Kinds : Vanilla, Chocolate, 
Strawberry, and Unfavored. 
At all grocers or by mail, two packages 
for 25c, enough for a gallon of ice-cream. 
• Write for recipe book with colored illus- 
trations, free. Issued A pr- 1 15, IQOJ. 
THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., 
Le Roy, N.Y. 





Familiar Sayings 

"Nothing new under the sun" — 
Much that is new unto the daughter. 

"Go to the ant, thou sluggard: con- 
sider her ways and be wise" — Go to 
the "uncle" when on your uppers: get 
his loan and be rich. 

"Trust not to appearances" — You 
are judged by appearances: not much 
else counts. 

"A small leak will sink a great ship" 
— Many small investments in printer's 
ink will bring a great growth of pa- 
tronage. 

"Better is a dinner of herbs where 
love is than a stalled ox and hatred 
therewith" — Better is a luxurious din- 
ner at your mother-in-law's than a 
picnic lunch in the woods. 

"AVhen lovely woman stoops to 
folly" — When she wears a long skirt in 
wet weather. 

"To err is human, to forgive divine" 
— To find fault is human, to have none 
divine. 

"Brevity is the soul of wit" — Small 
price is the soul of a bargain. 

"A soft answer turneth away wrath, 
but grievous words stir up anger" — 
Quick wit oft turneth away wrath; 
but long pondering will oft stir up a 
feud. — Philadelphia Bulletin. 



One day Miss Dorothy Drew posi- 
tively refused to get up, and her grand- 
father, Mr. Gladstone * had to be called 
to overawe the rebel. "Why don't 
you get up, Dorothy?" he asked. 
"Because the Bible doesn't approve 
of early rising, grandfather," was the 
unexpected reply. "Really, Dorothy," 
said the astonished statesman, "you 
must be mistaken." "Oh, no, I'm 
not," she persisted. "Here it is." 
And she turned up the second verse of 
the One Hundred and Twenty-seventh 
Psalm, — "It is vain for you to rise up 
early." The old parliamentarian had 
nothing more to say. The argument 
floored him. — London Taller. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine* 

xxiii 



Household Hints 



FLEISCHMANN'S 

VEGETABLE VC A QT 
COMPRESSED I LAO I 

HAS NO EQUAL 




DRINK 

Clicquot 
Club 

Ginger Ale 

THE BEST AND 
PUREST MADE 



& & 



Clicquot 
Club 

Company 

Millis . Mass. 



In Charles Dickens's Day 

Miss Ida M. Tarbell, the writer, was 
talking at her residence in New York 
about servants. 

"I have been reading," she said, 
"John Forster's 'Life of Dickens,' and 
the book has reminded me of the pom- 
pous Forster's body servant, Henry. 
Dickens described Henry during his 
last visit to America. 

"The man, it seems, was a character. 
He was devoted to his master. From 
one year's end to the other he never 
needed a reprimand. 

"It was, therefore, very surprising 
one night, when Forster was entertain- 
ing several writers at dinner, to see the 
scrupulous Henry make error after 
error. He upset a plate of soup, and 
Forster uttered a cry of alarm. He 
forgot to- serve the sauce for the fish, 
and his master said, 'Why, Henry!' 
Altogether, he made the excellent din- 
ner seem quite a slovenly and poor 
repast. 

"When, at the end, he had set the 
port and walnuts on the table, Henry 
leaned over Forster's chair, and said in 
a tremulous voice: — 

' ' ' Please, sir, can you spare me now ? 
My house has been on fire for the last 
two hours."' 



Live Upstairs 
Those of you who are sick and de- 
spondent I would advise to live up- 
stairs for a while, and the chances are 
you will be well and happy in six 
months. 



Tommy : ' ' Pop, what becomes of good 
little calves when they die?" 

Tommy's Pop: "Well, if they are 
very, very good, they become chicken 
croquettes." 



k 



DARN IT? NEVER. Send for a 
pair of stocking feet. Price, 10c; twelve 
pairs, $1. 

Agents wanted for hosiery. CATALOG FREE. 
NEW ENGLAND H08IERY COMPANY 

BOX C, HIGHLAND, SPRINGFIELD, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The BostonCooking School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 



[/*S\| 






IP 








;"■ ]'}■;-. ..': ■'■" 



AiitiTirn. iffn 




HH^* 



5 



Every one of these pretty children of Mrs. A. W. Hosmer of 
Southboro, Mass. was raised on MELLIN'S FOOD. 

Would you like to know, why a baby fed on Mellin's 
Food is happy, healthy and well and grows safely up into 
rugged, beautiful childhood? 

Would you like to know more about Mellin's Food, 
what it is, what it does and what other mothers say 
about it? 

Would you like to see a lot of pictures of pretty 
babies and gain some information that will be interesting 
and of value for you to know ? 

Then write us for a copy of our book called, "The 
Care & Feeding of Infants." It is yours for the simple 
asking. Write to-day. 

Mellin's Food is the ONLY Infants' Food, which received the GRAND PRIZE, the highest 
award of the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, St. Louis, 1904. Higher than a gold medal. 



MELLIN'S FOOD COMPANY, 



BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

XXV 



Household Hints 



I like Coffee 




tea/? Y drink it beeaase 
it makes me dizzy &bi/ious 
& affeets my nerves, so 

I DRINK 

THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 

OLD GRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

ft TASTES GOOD AMD 
/S VERY HEALTHFUL 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. Send for book of 43 prize receipts. 

WM. UNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON. MASS. 



Our Peculiarities 

The following amusing conversation 
is given in the Watchword: — 

"You must find that impediment in 
your speech rather inconvenient at 
times, Mr. Biggs?" 

"Oh, n-no: everybody has his little 
peculiarity. Stammering is mine : what 
is y-yours?" 

"Well, really, I am not aware that 
I have any." 

"D-do you stir y-your tea with your 
right hand?" 

"Why, yes, of course." 

"W-well, that is your p-peculiarity : 
most p-people u-use a t-teaspoon." 



The safest and sanest specialist is 
the one who knows more than his 
specialty. 

"Truth never grows old," but I 
know people who would like to shut it 
up in the home for the aged. 

Energy without purpose is no more 
effective than the combustion of un- 
confined gunpowder. 

You can't expect the bread you cast 
upon the water to-day to come back 
in the shape of Parker House rolls to- 
morrow morning. 

"Think twice before you speak once." 
Even then it might be wiser to look 
wise and keep mum. — Jed Scarboro, 
in Profitable Advertising. 



The Process of " Shredding " 
Wheat 

It is claimed for shredded wheat that 
it is not only the cleanest, purest, and 
most nutritious wheat food on earth, 
but the most easily digested. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Co - pany, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 



It makes no difference what kind of cheese you like best, 

Brownsville 
Wat er C_-r a cker$ 

" The Cracker that has Brownsville on it" 

go with any kind of cheese. They are not too hard, and they never 
get too hard. They are crisp and stay crisp. If you could see them 
being baked in the old-fashioned brick ovens, you would know why they 
taste as good as they look. 

Get your grocer to get them. 

CHATLAND & LENHART 
Brownsville, Pa, 

S. S. Pierce C>., Boston. 

Park& Tilford, New York. 

Acker, Merrali & Condit Co., New York. 

The Joseph R. Peebles' Sons Co., Cincinnati. 

Geo. K. Stevenson & Co., Pittsburg, Pa. 

Finley Acker CoT, Philadelphia. 

C. Jevne & Co., Chicago. 

If vou cannot buy these crackers of any grocer that you can 
reach easily, we will send ten pounds for $1.50, express 
prepaid, or two pounds for 50 cents, express prepaid. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxvii 



Household Hints 



Quilted 
Table Padding' 

is much better than the antiquated 
woven stuff. 

There are several reasons why. 

It can be washed, others cannot. 

It does not cover diners' clothing with 

lint or fuzz. 
It does not stick to the table when 

hot plates are laid on it. 
It wears twice as long as any other. 

These are the " whys " that have 
made it almost universal. 



ALL DRY GOODS DEALERS SELL IT. 



EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO., 

15 Laig'Ht Street, New York. 



GLASS AND TILE 

Linings in Refrigerators look nice, but are 
put together with cement, which absorbs 
grease and odors, forming poisonous gases 
to be transmitted to every article of food. 

T1EDDY 

Has a solid metal lining, which cannot absorb 
anything, and is absolutely 

THE BEST 



IS NOT OUR 58 YEARS' EXPERIENCE 
WORTH SOMETHING TO YOU? 

For Sale by the Best Dealers 
D. EDDY ®. SONS CO., 

BOSTON, MASS. 

Manufacturers 
CATALOGUE MAILED FREE 



A Definition 
"What does the word 'aroma' mean? 
was recently asked by a Newark teacher. 
Only one hand went up. Its owner 
thus explained, "When you cook an 
onion in the kitchen, the aroma is what 
you get in the parlor." 



The superintendent of a large Sun- 
day school recently told the children the 
story of Noah's ark. He asked ques- 
tions about it afterward. "Now," he 
said to a small boy, "can you tell me 
how Noah knew that the waters had 
gone down?" "Yes, sir," was the 
prompt response. "Noah knew it be- 
cause the dove came back with a 
pickle." Later the small boy's mother 
explained that pickles and olives were 
synonymous terms to him. 



Little Miss Muffet sat on a tuffet 
Eating some Junket one day, 
Along come a spider and sat down be- 
side her, 
And unto Miss Muffet did say, 

"That Junket looks fine, pray ask me 

to dine?" 
Miss Muffet said, "Pray, help yourself." 
So the spider and maiden, with palms 

sweetly laden, 
Were seated without any pelf. 

Little Miss Muffet then rose from her 

tuffet 
To make her some Junket Cream Ice, 
Which she handed the spider, who put 

it inside her, 
And said, "Oh, my stars, 4 that is nice!" 



DON'T BREAK DISHES t SAVE THEM 

By sending to-day 5c. for the PERFECTION 
FAUCET CUSHION. -■ : 

It's a rubber cap which fits over the end of the 
faucet (see cut). Prevents accidents to glassware. 
Saves your hands. Sent, postpaid, 5c. each, IOC. 
pair. Agents wanted. Big profit. 
ENTERPRISE COMPANY, ROGERS PARK, CHICAGO 




These trade-mark crisscxoss lines on every package. 



Glut 

BABLE 

Perfect Breakfast 
PANSY FLOUR 
Unlike all 
For 
FARWELL & RHIN 




its 



INI) 



STALS, 

Health Cereals, 
^ake and Biscuit. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 
ertown.N.Y.. U.S.A. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxviii 



Advertisements 



%■ 


K.AKIM.OCHI 


r, 


^:;-:::,lt- 


> 






For Five o'clock Tea 

or at any time when a delicate biscuit or cracker is needed the 

RARIMOCHI 

or Japanese rice biscuit forms a peculiarly exquisite confec- 
tion. Made from a special kind of pure Japanese rice, 
it has a delicious, nut-like flavor. We import it from 
Japan in air-tight cans, so that it is ALWAYS CRISPY. 
As a plain biscuit it forms a wholesome food for children. 
Price 25c. per can. When ordering by mail add 10c. for postage. 

BUNKIO MATSUKI, 

380 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, cTWASS. 



\tfelchs Grape Juice 

Partly a food — partly a drink — partly a tonic- — 
in addition to being a delicious drink the year 
around. Sick people get well and well people 
keep well drinking it. The juice from the choicest 
Concord grapes — the knowledge from thirty- 
five years' ex- 
perience — 



*• 



C 



ft y 



morecarethan 
others think nec- 
essary — absolute 
purity — make 
Welch's the best. 

One Sip makes a Co?ivert 

Sold by druggists and grocers in 
quart and pint bottles. Trial dozen 
pints. $3. Express paid east of Omaha. 
Booklet with delicious recipes for bev- 
erages and desserts made from Welch's 
Grape Juice, free. Sample three-ounce 
bottle of Welch's Grape Juice, by 
mail, 10 cents. 

Highest Award at St. Louis 

WELCH GRAPE JUICE CO. 
Westfield, N. Y. 



** .*' 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 



XXIX 



Household Hints 



RED CEDAR CHESTS 

ABSOLUTELY DOTH PROOF 

Every woman who has valuable dresses, furs, 
woollens, etc.. will appreciate its value in protecting 
them from injury, Makes a handsome addition to 
furniture of bedroom, and is delightiully fragrant. 

Built of selected Eed Cedar. Fitted with heavy 
brass hinges, ornamental trimmings, and castors. 
Will last for generations. 

Made In several sizes. Prices extremely low. Shipped 
from factory to home on approval. Freights prepaid. 
Write for booklet, full information, and special fac- 
tory prices. Ask also for General Furniture Catalog. 

Piedmont Furniture Co., Dept. S, states vi lie, N.C. 



25c/ CORNO CURES CORNS 25< 



Instant relief, permanent comfort, sure cure by using 
CORNO corn-killing plasters. A harmless and 
painless antiseptic. Made like wafers, easy to apply, 
comfortable to affected parts. Package, 25 cents. 
Guaranteed to cure or money back. Sample for two- 
cent stamp. Agents wanted. 

BEST SUPPLY COriPANY, Sole Manufacturers, 
Department 10, JOLIET, ILLINOIS. 




#eo. % ClltS Co 



272 €ongre££ Street 




jl Printing; 

^-f.'of 36ooksi 
ffia$a?int&, Cat 
alopi, anU Pam 
pblete, lato antr 
Ratlroato Work 
Posters, ©ffice 
Stationer?, etc 





Colic. — In colic of intestinal, kidney, 
or liver origin Nicelle Olive Oil is highly 
recommended. 

Gall Stones. — It is claimed by many 
physicians of very high standing that 
its use prevents the formation of gall 
stones. 

Fevers. — Nicelle Olive Oil is used by 
many of the best physicians and in 
many of the hospitals to facilitate the 
scaling in eruptive fevers, such as scar- 
let or measles. 

Its use in counteracting the effects 
of alcoholic liquors makes it a desirable 
household article. 

It is more palatable than cod liver 
oil, and more efficacious. 

Coughs, Colds, or Catarrh. — It is es- 
pecially valuable to persons affected 
with coughs, colds, or catarrh, and for 
persons of a nervous or hysterical dis- 
position it is very beneficial. 

It is a great benefit to the whole 
system, and will go a long way toward 
building up the worn tissues of the 
body, thus insuring perfect health. 

Dose for adults, dessert to a table- 
spoonful three times a day. 

Poisoning. — In cases of poisoning it 
should be used as a protection to the 
mucous membrane. This is especially 
true in cases of acid .poisoning. 

DO YOU DO YOUR OWN PRESERVING? 

^-^ If you do, do not fail to get a set of our beauti- 
y-r— ^, ful and handy " Ready-to-stick-on " fruit jar 

(llttlihlUfl labels. Neatly printed in two colors, gummed, 
and perforated. 192 labels (21 different kinds), 



HHERRIESJ 



only 10 cents, postpaid. Thousands of sets sold 
" f or a 



mfi Bm last season. Send for a set to-day. 

^^ HOLTKAMP PUBLISHING CO., 

819 BURLING STREET - - - CHICAGO 

BUY THE CELEBRATED 

CHAMBERLIN 
STEAM COOKER 

Cooks Everything. 

Used on a gas, coal, or oil stove, it will 
cook a big dinner with but flame enough 
to keep 2 quarts water boiling. It will 
do the every-day cooking with least pos- 
sible trouble and gives out no odor. Un- 
surpassed as a Fruit Canner, for which 
directions go with each Cooker, and it is 
used extensively as a Sterilizer. 
The best in the world. Send/or circular 

S. W. Chamberlin Co. 

Office and Manufactory, 2$ Union Street 
BOSTON, MASS. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

XXX 



IN CAMP AND WILD WOOD 



::i'.\'.'/ :f: ''i'. 



ii& 



0P% If pn* 



THE BOSTON 

COOKING SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF CULINARY SCIENCE 8^ 
DOMEJTIC EOONOMIGy 



Vol. X. 



AUG.-SEPT., 1905 



No. 2 



-■.. 



Hints for the Camp Cook 

In the Deep Woods with a 
Cordon Bleu 

The Handy Man 

A Wild Dinner 

A Calm Retreat 

The Prosaic Side of the House 



THE BOSTON COOKING 5CH00L 
MAGAZINE 

372 BOYLSTON 51 BOSTON MAS5 



$1.00 a year 

)yright, 1905, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



IO cents a copy 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 





MADE FROM 
THE FINEST 
CORN FED STOCK 



SOUI RE S 
BOILED 
HAMS 



INDISPENSABLE DURING THE WARM MONTHS 

UNEXCELLED FOR SANDWICHES, AND SERVING 
AN APPETIZING COLD LUNCH. 

BE SURE YOU GET SQUIRE'S. 
PREPARED ONLY BY 

JOHN R SQUIRE &C0MPANY, 

BOSTON, MASS. 

MAKERS OF SQUIRES 'ARLINGTON' 
SAUSAGE AND SQUIRE'S 
KETTLE RENDERED PURE 
LEAF LARD. *i 







When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 




Finger Bowl with Plate, Made for the Arts and Crafts Society by Union 

Glass Co. 



d# <$# 



Now the sweet September's here, 
And the plover pipeth clear, 

And each sheltered sheath of satin 
Holds a guerdon of good cheer; 

And the corn all ripe and high, 

Taller far than you or I, 

Standeth spear-like to the sky, 
In the sunset of the year." 



A* # 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



AUGUST -SEPTEMBER. 



No. 2. 



Strawberries: Varieties and Planting 

By C. B. Smith 

Photographs by Wm. Taylor, Dept. of Agriculture 



OF all our fruits the strawberry 
is the easiest to grow and surest 
to bear fruit. There never 
was a patch so small and mean or neg- 
lected that it did not produce fruit 
enough for at least one short-cake. 
Then, too, no fruit responds more 
readily to care and attention than the 
strawberry. 

A well-cultivated strawberry bed, 
fifteen feet wide and fifty feet long, will 
furnish an abundance of fruit for a 
family of five, with plenty to preserve 
for winter. Such a bed with good cul- 
tivation should yield one hundred 
quarts, and with high culture, such as 
our best growers know how to give, 
even double this quantity. 

The strawberry is one of the out- 
door crops that a woman can grow, 
and no plant gives more pleasure in 
the growing. Its white blossoms are 
among the first of spring, while its 
rich red and crimson fruits adorn any 
garden or any table. 

Those who neglected to plant a 
strawberry bed this spring may do so 
now. This is the last call for the 
season. August-set plants will not be 
as productive next spring as plants 
set out last May, but they will give a 
fair crop, and the results may so satisfy 



the beginner that he will set out a larger 
bed next spring for greater rewards. 

Different varieties of strawberries 
vary as much in quality as apples do. 
The best shipping apples or straw- 
berries are not the best for eating pur- 
poses. In the little home garden we 




Lady Thorn ps 



6 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Brandywine 

want the best quality and the hand- 
somest fruit. Then we want a variety 
that yields well. There is great sat- 
isfaction and much encouragement in 
loaded vines grown by ourselves. 

The variety, Lady Thompson, shown 
in the illustration is of the best quality, 
shapely, quite productive, and one of 
the earliest varieties to ripen. It is 
especially valuable for planting in the 
Central Atlantic and Southern States. 
But of all varieties for the home garden 
none surpass in excellence the Marshall. 
The fruit is large and dark crimson, and 
the quality the best. It is the variety 
pre-eminently suited to my lady's gar- 
den. It is a mid-season variety, quite 
uniformly successful throughout the 
Northern and Eastern States, and does 
best on a clay soil. f For a late berry 
the Gandy is of the first quality, and 
no variety has handsomer fruit. 

The matter of varieties, however, 
is largely a local problem. Some va- 
rieties yield better and come to greater 



perfection in a given locality than 
others, and this cannot be told until 
after a trial. For this reason it is best 
for the beginner to leave the matter 
of varieties to the nurseryman or seeds- 
man from whom he obtains his plants. 

All the varieties mentioned above 
are perfect-flowered varieties, and will 
produce fruit if planted alone. Some 
varieties, however, have imperfect blos- 
soms, and cannot fecundate them- 
selves. A number of our best varieties 
belong to this class. They will not 
bear any fruit at all unless planted 
alongside of a perfect flowered kind 
that blossoms at the same time. The 
nurseryman will see that the right 
kinds are sent, if the matter is left in 
his hands. 

Wherever the garden is, there the 
strawberry will grow, and produce 
enough fruit for home use if well cul- 
tivated and cared for. There may be 
some failures, if the garden is located 
in a low, frosty place, but with many 
of the readers of this magazine the 




Sharpless 



Strawberries 



65 



garden is located on the lot with the 
home, and cannot be changed. 

In planning a bed for five people, 
make it about fifteen feet wide and fifty 
feet long. This will furnish enough 
berries for the family and some for your 
friends. Gardening expands the heart. 
Half of the joy in raising fruit comes 
from the pleasure of giving part of it 
away. 

Prepare the ground by putting on 
a good big load of stable manure, fifty 
pounds of bone meal, and a bushel of 
unleached, hardwood ashes. If the 
ashes are leached, put on two bushels. 
Coal ashes are worthless. The man- 
ure is best, if well rotted ; but use fresh 
manure, if the rotted cannot be ob- 
tained. No fertilizer is so good for 
strawberries as stable manure. 

Have the manure forked or spaded 
into the soil eight or ten inches deep. 
Then cultivate, and rake the ground 
until all the lumps are broken down 
and it is fine and mellow. Lay off 
the rows lengthwise of the bed, com- 
mencing one and one -half feet from 
the outer border. This will give five 
rows. 

If plants are obtained from a nur- 
seryman, open the package as soon as 
it comes, and put the plants in water. 



They should be planted by the next 
day. If you get plants from a neigh- 
bor, select those that have never borne 
fruit and that have white fibrous roots. 
They may be dug up with a garden 
fork, the dirt shaken off and put di- 
rectly in a pail of water, and planted 
as soon as you get home. 

There are two methods of growing 
strawberries. The commercial man, 
who wants staple berries cheaply, grows 
them in matted rows. The home 
gardener who wants the choicest fruit, 
even if it does take a little more work 
to produce it, grows them in hills. In 
hill culture the rows are spaced three 
feet apart, and the plants are set about 
eighteen inches apart in the row. 

In setting out the plants, cut off the 
roots to about five inches in length, 
and trim off part of the leaves. Then 
make an opening crosswise of the row 
with a spade. Insert the plant in the 
opening thus made, then spread out 
the roots fan-shaped and pack the 
earth firmly around them, leaving the 
surface soil loose. 

The crown of the plant after setting 
should be just level with the surface. 
If the crown is covered up, it will rot. 
For a bed fifteen feet wide and fifty 
feet long, with the plants eighteen inches 





Matted Row and Hill Systems 



66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



apart in three-foot rows, it will take 
about one hundred and sixty-five 
plants. They cost usually $1.50 to 
$2.50 per 100 plants. 

After setting out the bed, rake it over 
lightly about 1 inch deep, leaving the 
surface mellow and loose. From now 
on, until growth stops in the fall, keep 
the bed well cultivated about one and 
one-half inches deep. Never let a weed 
appear above the ground, and always 
leave the top soil loose and mellow. 



By the hill method of culture every 
runner that the mother plant sends out 
must be promptly cutoff. In the matted 
row system those runners are allowed 
to set plants, and thus form a mat. 
By cutting off the runners, as in the 
hill system, the mother plant greatly 
enlarges, becoming a big hill the size 
of a half -bushel measure or larger. 
The larger and stronger those hills 
are, the more berries they will pro- 
duce. 



To Muriel 

By Lucia W. Eames 



Do you remember, dear, the time 
When in the summer's golden prime, 
In August's sunny, drowsy weather 
We two dwelt by the sea together? 

Can you recall the boundless deep, 
The rocky coast line, high and steep, 
The breaking wave, the windy shore, 
And the blue, blue heavens bending o'er? 



The fields that round me stretch and burn 
Into the cooling waters turn; 
And in my fancy plain I see 
Your sweet face smiling up at me. 

All sense of distance is forgot: 
Yea, changeful time and space are not, 
Since in ripe August's sunny weather 
Again we live and love together. 




Glass Basket for Flowers. Courtesy of Union Glass Co. 



Some Hints for the Camp Cook 

By H. W. Jacobs 



WHO that knows the joy of 
camping can dream of a 
better way T to spend a sum- 
mer holiday? And who is there, pro- 
vided he does not know, who does 
not wish to know that joy? To the 
experienced these hints on camp- 
cookery may be superfluous, but let 
the inexperienced be advised. 

To begin with, choose a camping 
place near a supply of good drinking 
water. A spring is ideal, for it can 
be utilized as a refrigerator by sinking 
a box, either in the spring itself or in 
the overflow, and bottles of milk and 
cream and jars of butter can be lowered 
into the cool depths without danger 
of their being overturned or floated 
away. A friendly farm-house, within 
easy walking distance, will insure a 
supply of fresh eggs, milk, and cream, 
and with these one can live like a king — 
without fresh meat. 

It is not wise to carry too many 
spoilable things: a small quantity of 
salt meat and enough fresh meat for 
the first meal, some bread and crack- 
ers in a tight tin box, — in fact, 
most of the stores should be packed in 
tin, as sugars and most starchy foods 








Camp Conewango 



A Foraging Expedition 

will collect moisture, and spoil. The 
canned bacon is the best to take, and 
"air- tights" generally are a safe in- 
vestment; but let me warn you against 
salmon and sardines. Dish-washing 
in camp is not an unmixed joy, under 
the best circumstances. You are so sure 
to run out of hot water before you are 
half finished ; but, when there has been 
fish for dinner, 

"You may scrape, you may scour the dish as 
you will, 
The scent of the salmon will hang round it 

still." 

N.B. — Be sure to put the dish-water 
on the stove to heat before sitting down 
to your meal. Then, by the time the 
meal is over and the fire has died down, 
the water will be hot. 

Probably each and every member 
of the party will have his or her special 
preference in the matter of breakfast 
foods. Those "ready to eat with a 
little warming" are preferable, for 
usually the real problem of camp cook- 
ery is the lack of heating surface to the 
stove. Sometimes an oil or gasolene 
stove is available, but the real back- 
woodsman uses a logger's stove, — a 



68 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




The Cook at Work 



creasing with the number to be cooked, 
cover tightly, and let stand six min- 
utes. 

Filtered coffee made in an aluminum 
coffee-pot will keep hot a remarkably 
long time; and that, too, can be pre- 
pared without taking any extra stove 
space. 

Excellent toast may be made by 
laying the bread directly on the hot 
stove top. 

It is difficult to control the heat of 
these stoves, so one of the best ways 
of cooking is in double boilers. Cus- 
tards, sauces, cream soups, and salad 
dressings may be made in this way. 
For the same reason long-handled forks 
and spoons will be found most con- 
venient for stirring and turning things, 
for the stoves seem to radiate heat 
equally from all surfaces. 



sheet iron box with a small door through 
which to introduce the wood, two or 
three openings in the top with lids, 
and a short stack. A tin oven can be 
used with this stove if the cook is suf- 
ficiently ambitious to attempt baking; 
but usually in camp "one eats to live," 
and variety is not necessary to tempt 
the appetite. 

A steamer is an excellent thing, as 
several things can be cooked over one 
lid in this way. For instance, pota- 
toes can be boiled in the lower part 
while steaming custards and brown 
bread in the upper. These, with a can 
of baked beans, would furnish a dinner 
to delight the camper's heart. 

Eggs are easily cooked in many ways, 
— fried, poached, scrambled, and made 
into omelets. Soft-boiled eggs — or 
"soft cooked," as we say — can be pre- 
pared off the stove. Pour boiling 
water over the eggs, the amount in- 




The Cook at Play 

A chafing-dish is a useful adjunct to 
a camping outfit. A luncheon can 
often be prepared without the use of 
the stove at all; and, when the rainy 
days come, as come they will, the chaf- 
ing-dish furnishes amusement as well 
as refreshment for the party. 



In the Deep Woods with a Cordon Bleu 

By Helen Campbell 



NOTHING more clearly marks 
the differing ideals in cookery 
than a study of French Cana- 
dian methods as compared with those 
of our own woodsmen or hunters. The 
lumber camp, whether of Maine, Min- 
nesota, or Oregon, has its own peculiar 
dishes, already mentioned in these 
columns, and the Adirondack guide 
adds several of his own, the Adiron- 
dack flapjack a shining example. But 
he who hunts in Canada, and has dur- 
ing the idyllic period — an October one, 
if possible — a French Canadian guide 
and purveyor, remembers long (in fact, 
never forgets) the savoriness and charm 
of the dishes provided by this official. 
It is the French delight in good cook- 
ery, the French delicacy of seasoning 
to exactly the right point and not a 
shade beyond, the use also of sweet 
herbs, a supply of which means but 
two or three ounces more in the outfit. 
It means, too, a trained eye that sees 
every stray mushroom, every bit of 
edible fungus on a dead tree or by the 
trail, and tucks both away as the final 
touch for the evening meal. 

This is one phase. Another is that 
the French love for bouillon, or simple 
soup in any form, manages in spite of 
difficulties to assert itself, and secure 
the coveted dish. Naturally there is 
little time for long, slow preparation; 
but Jacques or Pierre has found a 
shorter road, and amazes his charges 
who for the first time receive from his 
hands a tasse of birch bark folded 
square, a little peg at each end hold- 
ing it securely together, and within 
the savory, grateful bouillon. There 
are tin basins in the outfit he carries 
as pack; but he who is wise takes the 
bark tasse, and so has one less dish to 
wash. 

What does the bark tasse hold? 
Many things, but preferably, and best 



of all, a bouillon made from birch- 
partridge. It is known that the legs 
of these birds have a slight and not 
agreeable bitterness, but the thick, 
meaty breasts are quite free from it. 
So the bird is skinned, not plucked. 
The waiting dogs receive heads, wings, 
legs, and skin, and the breasts are put 
on to simmer gently, a bit of pork 
added to give the lacking fat. If no 
onions are in the outfit, the guide 
knows where to find a bit of wild leek, 
and often the mushroom or fungus, 
which at once carries it into the realm 
of choice entrees. When the dish is 
three-quarters done, hard-tack to the 
number of two or three are dropped 
in, if any are in stock. If not, crumbs 
from the last loaf or even a thickening 
of flour is added, and, as the steaming 
contents are at last poured out, so de- 
licious an odor steals out on the air 
that it is said bears have been known 
to get the scent a mile away, and hasten 
toward the source, to discover its mean- 
ing. 

Next in desirability comes the Octo- 
ber hare, still fat, and the meat as yet 
with none of its later astringency. 
These a careful guide soaks in salt and 
warm water for a time, to remove the 
wild flavor, in this case too strong for 
satisfactory eating. This done, he cuts 
them up, puts them in his close-cov- 
ered chaudron, or iron pot, and lets 
them simmer all night, either in the 
embers or in a hole under them. In 
the morning a roux is made with a little 
pork fat, flour, and condensed milk, 
and poured in, and toasted bread or 
biscuits are laid on top to steam. A 
mere touch of whiskey at the last mo- 
ment, and the guide warrants this dish 
able to carry a man through the hard- 
est day's worlc on to nightfall. 

A fat porcupine also makes admi- 
rable bouillon; but it must first be par- 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



boiled and the water thrown away, 
then cooked gently for an hour, add- 
ing a few marsh-marigold leaves, sweet 
herbs, and an onion or bit of wild leek, 
thickening, finally, and serving first 
the bouillon, then the meat. Frogs' 
legs, red or gray squirrels with a bit of 
bacon, and the loin only of woodchuck, 
also parboiled before cooking, all make 
desirable bouillon, and Friday has 
its own of fish or even fishes' heads. 

This is what the chaudron can do. 
But the frying-pan, after all, is the 
mainstay, for in it all fish just out of 
water are fried, the flesh scored here 
and there to allow the pork fat to pen- 
etrate. At times, Indian fashion, they 
are run through by a stout twig and 
roasted over the fire, the skin peeling 
off and leaving the meat with all its 
juices and delicious flavor. Deer liver, 
if a good one, is fried with bacon, and 
so often partridge's, which the guide 
cuts in halves lengthwise, lays on a 
bit of bark on a log, and pounds with 
the side of his axe till not more than 
half an inch thick, when they are 
stewed or fried, as the case may be. 

With moose meat, either in joints 
or steaks, it is considered a good thing 
to hang it a day or two in the smoke 
of the camp-fire, as thus it loses any 
unpleasant flavor given it by the feed- 
ing. Pan-broiling — that is, putting the 
steaks or chops in a very hot pan 
and searing each side, then cooking 
more slowly, to prevent the juices from 
running out — is the most usual method : 
the other parts are baked in tightly 
closed chaudron ovens, either buried in 
the embers or the meat enclosed in blue 
clay and also buried till done. Often, 
if there is time, as on a rainy day, the 
guide constructs an Indian oven, known 
to all the generations. This is merely 
six stones, each with one smooth face, 
built into a square or oblong box and 
filled with hard wood burned till the 
box is full of burning embers. Now 
the top is thrown off, the embers are 



brushed out with a bough, and the 
stones are washed, if that be needed. 
This is preliminary. The meat to 
be baked is now spitted on a stick, the 
end of which is set firmly in the ground, 
so that the roast hangs in the middle 
of the oven. The side stone is put 
back, the stick is passed through a 
corner joint, the stone lid is put on and 
covered close with branches and then 
sods, which keep in the heat much on 
the plan of Mr. Edward Atkinson's in- 
valuable invention, the Aladdin oven. 
If such an oven is built and heated at 
night, the birds put in it are found in 
the morning beautifully cooked and 
ready to be eaten cold or hot. The 
guide wraps them always in a thin strip 
of bacon or salt pork, to prevent dry- 
ness in the meat, and this is also done 
with deer meat, treated in the same 
oven. 

As to his own food, he shares the 
bouillon and all other dishes; but his 
meal is incomplete without galette, 
which he demands at least twice a day. 
Bread or crackers they insist are not 
strengthening enough for the work that 
must be done, and thus galette, made 
of flour, pork fat, and water, — really 
a species of pie-crust, — is kneaded, 
flattened to the thickness of the hand, 
fried in the frying-pan, and eaten hot. 
The woods and the exercise combined 
act as antidote, it may be. In any 
case, dyspepsia appears unknown; and, 
if the more modern guide knows noth- 
ing else, galette is certainly to be had, 
and is accepted by the hunter him- 
self, when bread fails, as no bad sub- 
stitute. But good food is not lacking, 
and he who has once tested the powers 
of the French Canadian guide in this 
direction is ever after a more discrim- 
inating man, sighing for the old flesh- 
pots, if Canada has been his portion 
but once, and in his dreams seeing 
again the camp-fire and scenting once 
more the savory odor from the steam- 
ing chaudrons. 



The Handy Man 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



A HANDY man is the greatest 
convenience a woman can pos- 
sess. Ever since Eve presum- 
ably found him in Adam, family life has 
more or less depended upon him, save 
in those uncivilized tribes where, in 
addition to being a woman, the female 
has to assume the tasks of the man. 
But, as specialization has stepped in to 
take the place of being jack -of -all 
trades, the handy man is dwarfed, and 
in many homes has become extinct. 
Yet what wife or mother would not 
rather have him round the house than 
an expert bacteriologist or a con- 
noisseur in ceramics ! Only the wealthy, 
who can issue the day's orders to as 
many separate individuals as there are 
jobs to be done, can get along without 
him. 

The handy man is a kind of general 
mechanician, knowing a little about 
all useful trades. He is an amateur 
plumber, carpenter, electrician, sur- 
veyor, farmer, nurse, and doctor. The 
more primitive the section in which 
he lives, the greater his power. Usu- 
ally, he has more common sense than 
other people, and his ready dry humor 
amuses us, in spite of ourselves; for, 
though grateful that he can do so 
many things just well enough, we yet 
are often annoyed that they are not 
better done. Still, he is the helpmeet 
of the tired wife and mother, and has 
been known to turn the clothes-wringer, 
make the coffee, wash the dishes, and 
walk the floor with the baby. That 
he should lay the kitchen fire and do 
the chores is part of the widely recog- 
nized but unwritten marriage contract. 

He may be an inventor spoiled in the 
making, having taken out several use- 
less patents, or he may have graduated 
into the handy man from having 



broken down as minister, lawyer, or 
insurance agent. The genuine kind, 
however, starts in life handy, hired out 
as a boy, and is the sole support of his 
mother until he falls in love. He 
straightens out crooked nails, saves 
strings and paper bags, and eats with 
his coat on, having a sense of the fitness 
of things. 

He is not the kind that spends money 
on barns and mowing machines, yet 
lets his wife fetch water from the well; 
for he pipes the water supply into the 
house, as far at least as the kitchen 
sink. Being handy, he sees the pe- 
cuniary value of labor-saving devices 
for women as well as for men. And, 
oh, the fences he mends, the gate 
latches he adjusts, the wagons he re- 
pairs! And yet he cannot shoe a 
horse! He knows with a pitiful sense 
of his weakness that he is just handy, 
and that he can do things, but also 
that he lacks sustained mental vigor, 
and depends upon the women-folk. 

What is the evasive quality he lacks, 
when yet he has been so ready for pio- 
neer life? Is it that his sense of the 
immediate and incidental has over- 
weighted his long-headedness and his 
grasp of broad outlooks? He follows 
precedents rather than adopts initi- 
ative. He is strong in simple expedi- 
ents, but cannot reason on long lines, 
his want of self-conceit hindering his 
being quite sure that he knows it all. 
Then he is neither masterful nor dip- 
lomatic in family life. He is just pa- 
tient and not over- strong in health; 
but he calls his wife "dear," and is 
always a lover. 

For all that, he is no longer the prod- 
uct of modern subdivided life, in which 
specialists are routing handy men; 
for this is the inner contention of in- 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dus trial education. The kind of me- 
chanic high arts and special trades' 
instruction that is now given to boys 
as part of school knowledge is lessen- 
ing their all-round ability to be handy, 
and is fostering in them a dislike to 
do anything outside of their expert 
training. And as a long step from 
that to marriage comes the result 
that a home costs more than it once 
did, partly because the expert hus- 
band has not the common sense to be 
also handy. 

His wages as skilled workman sel- 
dom are the equivalent of the money 
he loses by paying others to do little 
jobs round the house or place. More 
than that, his pride rebels at doing 
himself what he could do, but which 
is not his trade. Yet, if his mother, 
wife, or daughter, refused to be alike 
cook, laundress, seamstress, and scrub- 
ber, he would upbraid her for her 
shortcomings, and denounce the pub- 
lic schools for not training her properly 
to do the multifarious duties of wom- 
anhood simultaneously. 

The scarcity of handy men increases 
with each new specialization in indus- 
try. We all have heard of happy 
home lives, where the man is handy, 
the home jobs he does accruing not 
only in value of things done, but in 
savings deposited in the bank. And 
we also see homes begotten by men 
trained as experts, where, unless the 
wages or income is unusually large, 
bills are run up for repairs, and 
foreclosure of mortgages follows. Ex- 
treme instances these may be of each 
kind of home, the truth lying between 
them in daily practice. But any the- 
ory of industrial training which over 
and above its expert success results 



in a low estimate of the man who is 
handy, though not skilled, hurts the 
community; and, just as common 
sense is as great as any other sense, 
so should the capacity for being handy 
be valued as an essential in character. 
To be handy is to know what to do in 
an emergency before the doctor or 
expert arrives. 

Of course, it is better to be both the 
skilled workman and the handy man; 
but let not the former despise the latter, 
who will always yearn for expert skill. 
Again is it, on a more practical plane, 
the old question of the college-educated 
or the self-made man. It is so foolish 
to decry either, when both have given 
of their best to the world, though each 
one's best is different in kind from his 
neighbor's. 

However, the handy man is never 
the left-over man, who, not wanted 
by any one, is always mildly in the 
way. Either he did not begin or was 
not begun in the right way as a boy, 
and as a ''fellow" was shoved aside 
by the girls, with the fetch-and-carry 
role of social loneliness assigned to 
him at picnics and balls. He has 
little grip in his muscles, is understood 
only by his mother, and becomes either 
a recluse or marries a shrewish woman. 

Perhaps it is in the summer, when 
a housekeeper is far away from the 
base of supplies or repair shops, that 
she best appreciates the handy man. 
Life then would be impossible with- 
out him. Just to see him come in 
the door with saw or chisel in hand, 
and to hear him crack his jokes, cheers 
her up. May technical instruction never 
wholly destroy his capacity for being 
the most all-round, helpful kind of 
home companion ever given to woman ! 



A little work, a little play- 
To keep us going — and so, good-day! 

A little warmth, a little light 

Of love's bestowing — and so, good-night! 



A little fun to match the sorrow 

Of each day's growing — and so, good-morrow ! 

A little trust, that when we die 

We reap our sowing! and so, good-bye! 

Du Maurier. 



The Prosaic Side of the House 

The Parlor or Living-room 
By Mrs. A. D. Smith 



IN another article under this head- 
ing we spoke of the hall, and in- 
troduced ourselves to Mistress Pa- 
tience Pride, who will, this month, 
usher us into her pretty parlor, that 
will perhaps contain some economi- 
cal ideas for the housewife whose 
scheme of decoration and furnishing 
must coincide with economy. 

The word "parlor" comes from the 
French word meaning "to talk," this 
being the room set apart primarily 
for entertainment and the social life 
of the family. In formal houses the 
word is not used, the room used for 
this purpose being termed «a drawing- 
room. In quiet, unpretentious houses, 
however, the parlor becomes one and 
the same with the sitting or living- 
room, a place where the family as- 
semble for their social companion- 
ship, a room that has a dignity and, 
withal, a sense of comfort in its fur- 
nishings. 

But there are parlors and parlors. 
Some rooms are like some people, 
born with such natural advantages 
that it would take a genius of bad 
taste to make them gloomy and for- 
bidding. Other rooms, which are badly 
lighted and have a dreary aspect, must 
depend upon their furnishings for 
brightness. The choice of wall paper 
is too great a one to sum up in a 
few words, but extreme care must be 
made in choosing a paper that will 
appear to best advantage, and make 
the pictures serve their purpose of 
adornment upon the walls. Two tone 
papers in small figures are appropriate 
for parlors, as are the plain colors. 
Where pictures are many and attrac- 
tive, nothing could be prettier than a 
cartridge paper, which will be in con- 



trast and yet harmonize with the 
wall of the hall covering. 

The parlor that Mistress Patience 
Pride shows us into is a large, square 
one, such as are to be found in most 
old-fashioned houses. Such rooms 
really require more care in furnishing 
than rooms with some jags or corners 
to break the monotony of the four walls ; 
but Mistress Pride's "best room," as 
her country neighbors would have 
called it, did not lack individuality. 
As she had not many pictures, she 
had the room papered with two papers, 
the upper two-thirds being covered 
with cartridge paper of golden shade, 
the lower part of the wall being pa- 
pered in an odd design of green leaves, 
with a suggestion of yellow flowers 
hidden beneath the leaves. A white 
shelf moulding separated the two 
papers, and the ceiling was papered 
in a soft cream color that harmonized 
perfectly with the other colors. Where 
ceilings are very high, a good idea is 
to have the ceiling paper come down 
over the sides of the Avail for a short 
distance, forming a border, a mould- 
ing marking the place where it meets 
the side wall paper. This makes the 
effect of the ceiling considerably lower. 
A white picture moulding just at the 
junction of ceiling and wall is neces- 
sary to hang pictures. Mistress Pa- 
tience Pride had a few lovely old fam- 
ily portraits on small canvases, and 
these were in gold frames, and stood 
out in beautiful relief from the golden 
cartridge paper. Most of the other 
pictures were framed in simple black 
frames; and, as many of them had 
bright spots of color, this gave no 
sombre appearance, as might be ex- 
pected. In fact, as Mistress Pride 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



confided, they did look like ebony; 
but they were only plain pine, given 
two coats of black paint by her own 
hands, — a clever idea that is easily 
copied by other people who would 
save the contents of their pocket- 
books. Upon the shelf moulding a 
few jars of pottery made spots of pretty 
color, and some few prints, unframed, 
saved the monotony of the line. An 
old-fashioned fireplace broke one wall 
pleasingly. The fireplace itself was 
of white tiling, the wood-work being 
also painted white, while some little 
cupboards above had their doors re- 
moved, and odd curtains of green silk 
were only partly drawn together, show- 
ing that the little shelves within held 
some copper dishes and some blue-and- 
white china from ' 'grandmother's days." 

The window curtains were unusual, 
— soft, pretty cheese-cloth of cream 
tint, with broad bands of gilt ribbon, 
making a finish at the bottom of both 
side and valance curtains; for, as the 
windows were wide, the valance cur- 
tains were possible. The ever-present 
"lace curtains" of the old-time parlor 
are fortunately relegated to those 
people who do not care if the lace be 
of cobweb or coarse design as long 
as it bears the magic word "lace." 
Perhaps this is too sweeping a state- 
ment, for lovely lace curtains do ex- 
ist, and are used by people of refine- 
ment, but, as they are very expensive, 
common sense has told people that 
pretty ruffled curtains ? ^of muslin, or 
those of pineapple silk or pongee, — 
if they can be afforded, — are infinitely 
preferable to lace curtains of uncer- 
tain quality. Even unbleached mus- 
lin, with effective designs embroid- 
ered to make a running border, will 
give results to the economical house- 
wife that will delight her sense of the 
artistic, and at the same time save 
dollars. 

The question of floor covering, like 
wall paper, is an important one. Car- 



pets are regarded as unsatisfactory in 
these days of advancement, for they 
hold the dirt and germs, and wear in 
one place, while rugs can be changed 
and shifted. Hard- wood floors are 
always desirable ; but stained or painted 
floors will serve well if covered with 
rugs. Mistress Patience Pride had 
found a square rug of ingrain carpet, 
with a wide border of soft gray-green, 
that harmonized delightfully with the 
walls. Old-fashioned furniture, com- 
bined with some of the heavy Mission 
furniture, gave chairs and tables to 
the room. A settle of Mission de- 
sign stood in front of the fireplace. 
Window seats of black wood, studded 
with heavy brass nails, made most 
effective and comfortable seats; and 
these proved to be nothing but small 
heavy packing boxes which Mistress 
Pride had covered with cushioned 
seats, upholstered with Oriental striped 
material. She had marked a design 
on the front of the boxes, after giving 
them a coat of black paint; and great 
studding nails of brass brought the de- 
sign into effective relief. A lamp of 
wrought iron marked the centre of the 
table, which held only a few books 
and one or two silver ornaments. The 
lamp shade was one of quaint beaded 
design, which Mistress Pride had made 
herself, copying a pattern of an ex- 
pensive shade seen in one of the exclu- 
sive shops. 

Many of the chairs had come to this 
parlor directly from an old-fashioned, 
second-hand shop, where they had been 
found bereft of paint, and altogether 
miserable. The economical housewife 
will never have learned the secret of 
successful furnishing until she knows 
the worth of a second-hand shop, and 
learns there to discriminate between 
"possibilities" and articles that have 
outlived their usefulness. 

Mistress Pride also told me an up- 
holstery secret. In many of the up- 
holstery establishments one has only 



The Prosaic Side of the House 



75 



to ask to see their "remnants," to be 
shown pieces of upholstering material 
that may be had for very little, 
which, if bought from the ,piece, would 
be quite beyond the means of a simple 
housewife. And these remnants will 
often cover a chair, make a sofa cush- 
ion, or cover a foot-stool, at the trifling 
cost of 25 cents. 

Before I left this parlor, of which I 
am speaking, the afternoon sun was 
sifting pleasantly through the cheese- 
cloth curtains. The one maid of the 
house brought in a simple little white 
table with its tea service; and from 
quaint, old-fashioned teacups I enjoyed 
the cup that cheers. As I looked at 



the long white bookcase, filled with 
its load of books, at the piano across 
one corner of the room, which bore no 
burden upon its polished surface ex- 
cept two tall brass candlesticks, I felt 
regret in leaving a room that held 
so much prettiness and so many eco- 
nomic secrets; for I felt convinced 
that there were more untold, if I had 
but noticed them, or my clever hostess 
had thought to confide them to me. 

As it was, I came away from the 
pretty living-room, having learned the 
lesson that, with a limited amount of 
means, clever ingenuity, and willing 
fingers, any housewife can make her 
home a place of beauty. 



A Wild Dinner 

By M. Isabelle Davies 



THE house-party guests of two 
clever girls, whose family live 
a part of the year on a moun- 
tain ranch in southern California, were 
not for the first time surprised at 
"something new" when the unique 
menu I am going to tell about was 
served. 

The girls announced a wild dinner. 

It was a delightful spring day; and, 
to carry out the idea in mind, the din- 
ing table was spread under the great 
oaks in the grounds of the casa rancho. 

A great, green, loosely woven tule 
basket, made by an Indian woman at 
the near-by rancharia, piled gracefully 
full of wild lilac, formed the centre- 
piece; and mountain fern, laid on the 
cloth so as to radiate from beneath 
the basket, completed the effect of 
wildness there. Yerba Mansa leaves, 
cool, broad, velvety, and fragrant, were 
used for place cards by tying to their 
stems with ribbon grass tiny cards 
bearing the names. 



Unconventional etiquette in so free 
and informal an atmosphere made us 
eager to guess what the courses would 
be; and we all came about as near to 
it as one of the boys who suggested 
"jack-rabbit soup, jack-rabbit salad, 
jack-rabbit roast, and jack-rabbit pie." 

All hail, then, to the first course, 
when it had duly arrived ! 

A delicious clam broth served with 
tortillas (crisp cakes without short- 
ening or "rising," and baked on the top 
of the stove) made of white Indian 
meal. 

Then baked mullet with water-cress. 
The clams had been dug and the mullet 
caught on an excursion to the coast, 
while the cress had been gathered from 
the creek in the orchard. And the 
creek, too, by the way, furnished wild 
sweet music for the repast, as the falls 
were quite near the oaks. 

The riders of the party had but yes- 
terday returned victorious from a hunt, 
so a savory haunch of venison was 



76 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



served next. It was garnished with 
wild celery from the creek, and the 
accompanying vegetables were: mush- 
rooms, gathered by two of the "early 
birds" that morning; wild mustard 
greens from the edge of the grain field; 
and wild tomatoes! (these latter had 
been canned the previous summer). 

Then came yerba bueno (good herb) 
tea, sweetened with wild honey, — a 
veritable drink for the gods! This 
with acorn bread, made from acorn 
powder procured from the Indians, 
who prepare it so that the bitterness 
of the acorn is eliminated. It can be 
made either into bread and baked or 
into a thick mush and boiled. 

The dessert consisted of manzanita- 
berry jelly of a rich, peculiar flavor and 
wine-colored. With this there were 
very small, crisp tortillas of wild oat 
flour, and for relishes were grass nuts, — 
little brown-skinned tubers, which we 



all love to dig out of the hillsides in 
early spring, — coyote stalk or mescal 
plant, young, tender, juicy pieces of 
this member of the yucca family. To 
the Mexican children these sweet stalks 
are what sugar-cane is to pickaninnies. 
There were also crystalized tunies (a 
rarity). Tunies are the cactus fruit 
or something like the eastern prickly 
pear, large, juicy, and fine-flavored. 

Well, when it was over, you may 
know we marveled at the veritable 
feast that had been provided, as it 
were fresh from the hands of Mother 
Barth. No trusts nor combines had 
a "finger in that pie"; and some one 
called to mind the admonition of Henry 
Thoreau: "Go fish and hunt far and 
wide, day by day, and rest thee by 
many brooks and hearthsides with- 
out misgiving. Grow wild according 
to thy nature. Let not to get a living 
be thy trade, but thy sport." 



A Calm Retreat 

By Cora A. Matson Dolson 



I know a narrow, wildwood way, 
Where leafy-patterned shadows play 
Through boughs that reach and interlace 
Across the faintly outlined space. 
Here grows the yellow jewel-weed, 
With mottled blooms and snapping seed; 
The maiden' s-hair and crinkle-root 
The right of way with me dispute, 
And greedy fingers have not found 
That ginseng berries here abound. 

I like it best on August days, 

When vines festoon its winding maze, 

When broidered fern-fronds stand knee-deep, 

While turfy odors through them steep; 

When all the shy things of the wood 

Rest quiet in its solitude, 

And but a wandering honey-bee 

Wings down this way, to talk with me. 



Notes on Food and Diet in Cuba 

By C. F. Langworthy, Ph.D. 
(Continued from June- July) 



THE oranges served in Havana 
were usually pared round and 
round, as we would pare an 
apple, and were eaten from a fork. 
The pineapples were pared and cut in 
sections, and were so tender that core 
and all could be eaten. A few straw- 
berries were seen in market in March, 
but they are not considered a very 
common fruit at any time. Limes are 
apparently more used than lemons, and 
are very abundant; and grape-fruit is 
also grown. Many other fruits are, of 
course, eaten in season; and large num- 
bers of olives are used, which un- 
doubtedly come from Spain. 

Extensive pineries and orange groves 
are being planted in Cuba, most of the 
old orange groves having been de- 
stroyed during the war. The oranges 
are very sweet, though they do not 
usually show as good color as the Cali- 
fornia and Florida varieties. It is not 
necessary to raise pineapples under 
shade, as is done in Florida, since the 
soil is so deep that it does not become 
overheated. A good part of the year 
mangoes are very abundant, and among 
the very popular fruits. 

Preserved fruits are much liked by 
the Cubans. Many canned peaches 
are imported from Spain and from the 
United States. The Cubans make large 
quantities of guava jelly, paste, marma- 
lades, and preserves. These products 
are fairly cheap and of most excellent 
quality. A thick jam-like material is 
made from cocoanut cooked in sugar, 
of which the Cubans are very fond. 

Sugar is naturally an abundant prod- 
uct in Cuba. The unrefined article, 
which is yellowish-gray in color, and 
has the crystalline structure of granu- 
lated sugar, is very common, this being 



the form in which sugar is usually 
made. The raw product is sent to 
the United States for refining. A sugar 
factory in full operation is very inter- 
esting, and well worth a visit. The 
sugar in the modern factories is made 
by the best methods with great care. 
The fields of sugar-cane look very like 
fields of corn, and are a characteristic 
feature of the landscape in large sec- 
tions of the island. The sugar-cane 
in season is eaten in very large quan- 
tities by every one in the country, and is 
commonly offered for sale in the towns. 

Honey is produced in considerable 
quantities, largely for export. Cuban 
honey has long been famous, and the 
industry at present is said to be flour- 
ishing and very profitable. 

Cocoanuts in all stages of ripeness 
are very popular, being eaten in many 
ways. The water or milk of the green 
cocoanut is a favorite beverage. A 
nut ordinarily contains nearly a pint 
of liquid, which tastes like water, with 
a very little sugar and salt added. 
The Cubans frequently eat with this 
a sort of confection made of egg-white 
and sugar. This is apparenty baked, 
and looks not unlike a slice of very 
white and very light cake. 

Peanuts are eaten more or less. 
Those which were offered for sale were 
reddish in color, probably owing to 
the fact that they were grown in the 
red soil so abundant in Cuba, and sold 
without polishing. A small palm nut 
was also noticed on sale in the Havana 
market, but its specific name was not 
learned. 

Coffee is the common beverage, 
though chocolate is also a favorite. 
Nothing was learned of the amount of 
tea used, but that obtained at the 



78 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



hotel was of excellent quality. The 
favorite coffee comes from Porto Rico. 
It is roasted very brown; and a little 
molasses is added before roasting, 
which insures an abundance of cara- 
mel. At the hotel the coffee was made 
in the proportion of three pints of 
water to one pint of very fine ground 
coffee. The water was allowed to 
drip through the coffee three times, 
and it was kept just under the boiling- 
point. The clear coffee, very strong, 
was served from a porcelain pot, kept 
hot in a bain-marie, and was taken 
at breakfast with hot milk. 

Charged mineral waters, principally 
those so well known in the United 
States, are very commonly sold in 
Cuba. There are breweries in Havana, 
and spirits and wines are, of course, 
on sale. Judging by appearances, the 
people are very temperate. Wines are 
used with meals; but men were more 
commonly seen in the cafes drinking 
coffee, cocoanut water, the juice of 
crushed pineapples, limeade, and similar 
beverages than wine or spirits. 

As regards meals, it is the usual cus- 
tom in Cuba to serve coffee and bread 
-with, perhaps, fruit in the morning. 
Breakfast, which is a hearty meal, con- 
sisting of meats, omelets, and other 
hearty foods, is served at eleven or 
later, and dinner at night. At the 
breakfast hour, business is practically 
suspended, and the whole city sits 
down to its first hearty meal of the 
day. It is customary for the clerks 
in the wholesale and some of the re- 
tail stores to eat and sleep at the place 
of business. And it is a Spanish cus- 
tom, often followed, to give a clerk 
a part interest at the end of five years. 
When passing through the streets late 
in the forenoon, a large business fam- 
ily may sometimes be seen at table 
through the wide-open door. 

An opportunity was offered to in- 
spect the kitchens of a large hotel in 
Havana, of a splendidly equipped pri- 



vate hospital in the neighborhood of 
Havana, and of a business house in 
the country at Guines, where food was 
prepared for a number of employees. 
It seems to be a general custom to 
cook over charcoal. A brick platform 
of convenient height is often used as 
a stove. It has places for a number 
of charcoal fires on its broad top, and 
seems to answer its purpose admirably. 

The bread in Havana, and, so far 
as could be learned, throughout the 
island, is of excellent quality, and is 
almost always made in bakeries. At 
Guines the opportunity was offered 
of examining a bakery. The dough 
was mixed and allowed to rise in a 
large wooden trough, and was baked 
in an oven heated by building a brush- 
wood fire in it, and raking out the 
coals before the baking began. Long 
loaves of the sort commonly called 
French bread, and rolls similar in 
shape to the German breakfast roll, 
were the staple forms in which bread 
was baked. It seems to be a universal 
custom to place a narrow strip of ba- 
nana leaf on the loaves and rolls be- 
fore baking them. It is said that water 
is evaporated from the succulent leaves, 
and that this insures moisture in the 
air of the oven. The bread was of 
excellent flavor; and, though thor- 
oughly baked, the crust was rather 
light in color. 

The Cubans are fond of well-seasoned 
dishes and savory stews. Such dishes 
are very common, as are also omelets. 
It is noticeable that chili or red pepper 
is not as commonly used as in Mexico. 

Soups, rice, stews made with the 
South American jerked beef, dried 
codfish, omelets, fried plantain, vege- 
tables, and bread with coffee are among 
the staple foods eaten by the majority 
of the people in Havana. Contrary to 
the general opinion regarding diet 
in warm regions, the people are very 
fond of meat and fat, eating large 
quantities of both. 



Our Lives are Songs 



79 



One of the American nurses connected 
with the Matanzas Hospital and Nurses' 
Training School said that the hospital 
patients did not care at all for food 
prepared in the American way, but 
liked their native dishes with large 
quantities of fat. For instance, she 
mentioned that a popular dish with 
the native population was boiled rice, 
with a generous quantity of melted 
lard poured over it. As another in- 
stance of their fondness for fat, she 
stated that a great treat for the Christ- 
mas dinner for the Cubans at the 
Nurses' Training School was a very fat 
young pig, roasted whole. 

The Cubans are evidently fond of 
pastry, and the goods on sale in the 
pastry cook-shops in Havana were of 
very fine appearance. Custards, cakes, 
puddings, fancy desserts, etc., very simi- 
lar to those made by French bakers, 
were commonly seen. Chocolate seemed 
to be popular; and it was noticeable 
that different sorts of cakes were very 
frequently covered with a yellow icing, 
which sometimes contained shredded 
cocoanut, colored yellow in some way. 
A delicious orange ice, frozen in the 
orange skin, and looking like a whole 
orange covered with frost, is deservedly 
popular. 



American candy was found on sale 
in Havana, as well as some of Cuban 
manufacture, the latter being usually 
of the cheaper sorts, but the amount 
eaten is apparently not very large, the 
Spanish and Cuban idea of confection- 
ery being the small cakes that are such 
a feature of all the bake-shops. 

In general, the foods impressed our 
party as being very savory and well 
prepared; and Americans who have 
lived a long time in Cuba speak in 
high terms of many of the Cuban dishes. 
Like all Spanish races, the Cubans pay 
more attention to methods of cooking 
and seasoning than is commonly the 
case with Northern races. Perhaps 
owing to the fact that they cook over 
charcoal, stews, fried dishes, and simi- 
lar foods were apparently more com- 
mon than those that are roasted or 
baked. 

So far as can be learned, no dietary 
studies have been carried on in Cuba, 
although attention has been paid to 
securing a rational diet at the Mazorra 
Hospital for the Insane and at other 
public institutions. Systematic food 
investigations should be undertaken, 
and would surely prove of great value, 
as reliable data regarding tropical die- 
tetics are very limited. 



Our Lives are Songs 

Our lives are songs ; 

God writes the words, 

And we set them to music at leisure ; 

And the song is sad or the song is glad, 
As we choose to fashion the measure. 



We must write the song, 
Whatever the words, 
Whatever its rhyme or metre ; 

And, if it is sad, we must make it glad ; 
And, if sweet, we must make it sweeter. 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy for 
High School and College Classes 

By Mary D. Chambers 
Lesson IX. [Last on Animal Foods). Milk 



Study of Physical Properties of 

Milk 
i. Milk examined under microscope 
(625 diameters). 

2. Weight of one cup of milk com- 
pared with weight of one cup of water. 

3. Milk tested with litmus. (If pos- 
sible, it is well to have two samples of 
milk for this test, one freshly drawn, 
one six hours old.) 

4. Boiling-point of milk ascertained. 

5. Milk tested with lactometer, six 
samples, — whole milk, whole milk with 
cream added, skimmed milk, skimmed 
milk with water added, whole milk with 
water added, whole milk heated to 
90 F. 

Study of Composition of Milk 

Making of Butter. — Beat two table- 
spoonfuls of thick cream with Dover 
beater until butter comes. 

Wash butter in several waters until 
the last remains clear. 

Form into balls, and serve on crack- 
ers. 

Discuss: (1) Salted butter (compare 
with corned beef). (2) Addition of col- 
oring matter to butter. (3) Result of 
imperfect washing of butter. (4) Com- 
parative volume of cream with volume 
of resultant butter. 

Making of Cottage Cheese. — A half- 
cupful of freshly clabbered milk poured 
into a thin muslin bag (a small salt-bag 
does very well), and allowed to hang in 
a warm place until liquid has drained 
off. Curd then "worked" in bowl with 
wooden spoon until fine-grained. Salt 
added to taste, and a little cream, if de- 
sired. 



Cottage cheese should also be made 
by boiling the clabbered milk, and the 
difference in texture of curd noted. 

If possible, some excessively sour 
milk should be treated according to 
foregoing directions, and the difference 
in result accounted for. Also use a 
mixture of excessively sour and sweet. 

Whey from cheese divided into three 
parts. Add to first K 2 Fe(CN) 6 . White 
ppt. of lact-albumen. (Or whole milk 
can be heated and scum observed.) 
To second part add (NH 4 )2C 2 4 to test 
for the presence of calcium. To third 
part add PtCl 4 to test for potassium. 

Study of the Action of Rennet 
on Milk 

Commercial rennet, two kinds. 
Liquid, use one tablespoonful to one 
quart of milk. Tablets, use one tablet, 
dissolved in water, to one quart of 
milk. 

Rennet Custard, or Junket. — Heat 
one-half cup milk to blood heat. Add 
sugar, one tablespoonful to one cup, or 
to taste. Add flavoring. 4 Add rennet. 
Mix very well, and pour into glass. 
Stand in warm place until set, then place 
on ice. 

Rennet Custard with Boiled Milk. — 
Make one-half cup cocoa. Cool to 98 F. 
Add rennet, and keep in warm place 
until set. (Which custard solidifies the 
first? Which is the firmer?) 

Corroborative Experiment. — Divide one 
teaspoonful of curd of milk, precip- 
itated by acetic acid into two parts, A 
and B. Treat part A with two teaspoon- 
fuls NaOH. ; treat part B with two tea- 
spoonfuls lime water. When curd has 



The Vegetable Sphinx 



81 



been dissolved, or nearly so, strain, and 
add to each a few drops of rennet ex- 
tract. Let stand five to ten minutes, 
and compare. Does this' throw any 
light on the behavior of the custard 
made with boiled milk? 

Questions 

Milk drawn from cow registered 1014 
on lactometer. Correct this reading. 

Of what value is the lactometer as a 
test for the purity of milk ? 

How many quarts of milk may be ex- 
pected to yield cream enough to make 
one pound of butter? 

What is the nutritive value of whey ? 

Compare the nutritive value of a 
pound of milk and a pound of oysters. 

Discuss milk as a beverage. As a 
complete food: (1) for the child; (2) 
for the adult. 

What are the advantages of a milk 
diet ? The disadvantages ? 

Compare the cost of skimmed milk, 
whole milk, cream, and butter. 



What conditions may prevent the 
formation of a curd, in making cottage 
cheese? When is it necessary to heat 
the milk in making cottage cheese ? 

What conditions are necessary for the 
action of rennin? 

Discuss the sterilization and pasteuri- 
zation of milk. 

References on Milk 

Foods and Feeding. Sir Henry 
Thompson, pp. 52-58. 

Foods. Church, pp. 145-148. Also 
p. 152. 

Food and its Functions. Knight, 
pp. 123-126. 

Food and Dietetics. Hutchison, pp. 
107-115. 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thomp- 
son, pp. 73-77- 

Farmers' Bulletins, Nos. 9, 42, 63, 74. 

Dairy Bacteriology. Russell. Chap. 
VII. 

Bacteria, Yeasts, and Molds in the 
Home. Conn. p. 182. 



The Vegetable Sphinx 



A CORRESPONDENT of the 
London Globe says that the 
onion is the sphinx of the 
vegetable world. It is capable of in- 
finite possibilities. It may inspire 
aversions or exercise an irresistible 
fascination. Philosophers have studied 
it, and poets have sung its praise. 
It is the poor man's friend and 
the rich man's flatterer. The onion 
is inscrutable, and even the cooks 
do not know what to make of it. 
Ude, a Frenchman, declared broth 
to be the foundation of cookery. An 



Englishman claims that without bacon 
there could be no cookery; but both 
the French and English cooks agree 
that half their labors would be in vain 
but for the onion. Rossini stated that 
the man who did not like onion soup 
with grated Parmesan cheese was a 
phenomenon in nature hitherto un- 
discovered. The Regent, Philip of 
Orleans, was one of its devoted ad- 
mirers, and we are told that Cardi- 
nal Alberoni used to pare the onion 
with his own hands for the King of 
Spain. 



82 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $i. 00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second class matter. 

A NEW SOCIAL ORDER 

WE hear much about a new 
social order, and we are glad 
to note that men and women 
everywhere are coming to realize that 
progress is less a matter of revolution 
than it is of reform and growth. The 
existing order of things is the result 
of "the immeasurable pains and the 
infinite efforts" of all past genera- 
tions. The experience of the past is 
the one sure guide to the future. In 
the broadest sense, that any real gain 
to civilization has ever been lost is 
doubtful. The individual mind that 
has once grasped truth does not read- 
ily yield the same. It becomes an 
integral part of the recipient, and is 
made vantage ground for further out- 



reach. Old modes of thought and ex- 
pression serve their purpose, and pass 
away. We are constantly thinking 
in new and later terms. The old 
order is ever changing, giving place 
to new, and the main resource in all 
efforts for advancement to higher 
standards of conduct and living is edu- 
cation. 

On this subject, at a recent confer- 
ence of ministers at Cleveland, Ohio, 
in a very comprehensive and thought- 
ful paper, the Rev. N. F. Gilman said: — 

"What need is there of a profoundly 
new social order in the sphere where 
the main opportunity of life is kept 
open to all to-day? Education is the 
open door through which men pass 
into every field of achievement. What 
new society could be expected to sur- 
pass the fraternalism of our American 
public- school system? No one can 
suppose that the system is yet perfect; 
but its practice largely corresponds 
to the ideal of brotherhood, if brother- 
hood means setting a man on his feet, 
teaching him how to walk, and then 
bidding him walk. 'Make a man a 
man, then let him be.' 

' 'The free-school system of our coun- 
try is the result of a hundred years of 
experience, and no scheme of social- 
ism could extemporize another method 
likely to succeed that does not follow 
its main lines. Make it then more 
thorough and more consistent. Begin 
at the beginning, and let the kinder- 
garten idea become everywhere an in- 
tegral part of it; introduce features 
of manual training into all grades; 
make the State university as free as 
the primary school; provide industrial 
education proper for those who can 
only thus acquire a trade. These are 
but natural extensions of a free system 
of public education. They harmonize 
with the ground plan of the system. 
They would unite with the existing 
features to give the surest pledge of 
human helpfulness that you can give to 



Editorials 



83 



any human being, helping him to him- 
self, helping him to the largest oppor- 
tunity of life possible for him. A 
social order, on the other hand, which 
should provide in the public schools 
free breakfasts, free luncheons, free 
dinners even, might superficially be 
more Christian, but it would enfeeble 
the character and destroy force of 
will. Or one might imagine the 'cod- 
dling methods/ as they have been 
recently called, of the theological semi- 
nary applied over a wide range of proc 
fessional and collegiate education, but 
with what probably disastrous result 
observers of the ministry to-day may 
easily imagine. It is a poor kind of 
fraternity that kindly helps to unmake 



a man. 



IDEALISM 



THE saying is trite that women 
especially are apt to get what 
they want. At any rate, want 
is the first step to attainment. The 
gratification of desire is in keeping with 
the economy of nature. Earth's nat- 
ural resources, and the arts of modern 
civilization, are well-nigh inexhaustible. 
Hence it follows the woman who is 
really desirous of conducting her house- 
hold after the best-approved methods 
will find the means near at hand. To 
achieve her end, she has but to reach 
forth her hand and take what belongs 
to her. For are not these words true ? 
The wish is father to the thought. At 
some time we are masters of our fates. 

"The fault, dear Brutus, is not in our stars, 
But in ourselves, that we are underlings." 

But woman's interests should not be 
confined exclusively to the affairs of 
her own household. The events of the 
day, whatever of note is said or done 
in the world, are of concern to us all. 
These things should receive daily no 
inconsiderable share of our attention, 
else life will grow dull, monotonous, 
and unprogressive. Anyhow, without 



wide and varied interests, life is narrow 
and joyless. Is there good and suffi- 
cient reason why the home-maker 
should not have wants outside her 
own dwelling and its immediate en- 
vironment, including a desire for va- 
cations, summer outings, and time to 
read the best books and periodicals? 

To-day the educational experts say, 
"No child can be well who is unhappy, 
and that the mother, too, must be 
happy and have her strength and 
health conserved, or bad effect is pro- 
duced." There may be nothing new 
in this, but it does mean a good deal, — 
is a long step in advance, that this 
psychological truth has come, at last, 
to be recognized. It means, eventu- 
ally, better schools, improved homes, 
and an increment of gain to health 
and happiness that cannot be measured. 
Contentment in life is a condition 
greatly to be desired. Still, there is 
need of enough of dissatisfaction with 
one's lot to inspire to greater and re- 
newed efforts. 

The life of the home-maker must be, 
at one and the same time, both practical 
and ideal; for "is it not true that only 
those who are possessed by ideals, 
and are striving for their realization, 
may be said to live or to have life? 
Others simply exist, vegetate. With- 
out its idealists the world would long 
ago have stagnated. 'Where there is 
no vision, the people perish.' Ideals 
are the vivifying influences, the breath 
of life, for men and women and for 
nations." 

ABOUT ADVERTISING 

THE most widely circulated 
and flourishing publications of 
the day are devoted almost 
exclusively to the interests of home 
life. The names of these periodicals 
need not be mentioned here. These 
journals are conspicuous in many re- 
spects, but in no wise is the quality 
of their excellence more marked than 



84 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in that of their advertising depart- 
ments. They carry only advertise- 
ments of the cleanest and highest class. 
In contrast with many another publi- 
cation that might be named, this feat- 
ure of their ensemble is highly signifi- 
cant. 

Strictly as a household publication, 
the Cooking-School Magazine claims 
to carry advertisements of the very 
first order. The articles represented 
on its advertising pages are of superior 
excellence, — the best in the market; 
and, consequently, they are worthy 
the entire confidence of our readers. 
In fact, advertisers of no other class 
of goods could afford to make use of 
our pages. We aim to secure adver- 
tisements that are appropriate to the 
character of the journal and such as 
are regarded most essential to house- 
keepers. It is said that food products 
and household appliances are not nearly 
so extensively advertised as are many 
another article far less essential to 
human well-being, and even of doubt- 
ful utility. Scarcely a week passes that 
we are not asked where this food 
product or that kitchen utensil can 
be obtained. "We cannot find them 
in our market," is the common re- 
mark. Advertising as a means to 
commercial activity has grown to 
wonderful proportions, so much so 
that, in the midst of the countless 
articles manufactured and cast upon 
the market, it is difficult to make the 
merits of the really good things known. 
Certainly, acquaintance with house- 
hold products and appliances, such as 
are of undoubled quality and useful- 
ness, cannot be too wide-spread. 



I trust that in the steady character 
of my fellow-citizens unshaken by 
difficulties, in their love of liberty, 
obedience to law, and support of the 
public authorities, I see a sure guaran- 
tee of the permanence of our Repub- 
lic — Jefferson, 



For nothing else do I go about to do 
than to persuade your young men and 
your old men not to attend to their 
bodies and possessions first, nor so 
earnestly as to the soul, how it may 
be best, saying that not from wealth 
does goodness come, but from goodness 
wealth and all the other things good for 
man individually and socially. — Socrates. 



The best things are nearest, — breath 
in your nostrils, light in your eyes, 
flowers at your feet, duties at your 
hand, the path of God just before you. 
Then do not grasp at the stars, but 
do life's plain, common work as it 
comes, certain that daily duties and 
daily bread are the sweetest things of 
life. — Selected. 



It is the act of an ill-instructed man 
to blame others for his own bad con- 
dition: it is the act of one who has 
begun to be instructed to lay the blame 
on himself; and of one whose instruc- 
tion is completed neither to blame 
another nor himself. — Epictetus. 



There is almost no space of time 
between the longing for city life that 
affects the youth in the country and 
the desire for a country home that af- 
flicts the man in town. 



Next year Lasell Seminary will make 
domestic science one of the electives 
of its Junior and Senior years. 



No high degree of morals can be es- 
tablished or maintained without man- 
ual labor. — Froebel. 



People don't grow famous in a hurry, 
and it takes a deal of hard work even 
to earn your bread and butter. — Miss 
Alcott. 



Blessed is the man who has the gift 
of making friends, for it is one of God's 
best gifts. — Thomas Hughes. 




Bread for breakfast, luncheon and supper is cut in thin uniform slices, three-eighths of an inch 
thick. Bread for dinner is cut in thick slices; if the loaf be square, the slices are divided into 
two or four pieces. Slices cut from a French loaf are not divided 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Cream of Squash Soup (Bertha Ely) 
Put one quart of milk with two sticks 
of celery and a small onion in a double 
boiler. Allow it to cook for one hour. 
Mix one tablespoonful of flour with 
half a cup of sifted, cooked squash, 
and stir into the hot milk. Let cook 
about fifteen minutes. Have half a 
cup of whipped cream or a well-beaten 
egg, and strain the mixture on to it. 

Egyptian Lentil Soup 
Wash half a cup of lentils, and soak 
them all night in cold water. In the 
morning set them to cook in enough 
water to cover. Let them cook until 
they are soft, and the water nearly 
boiled away. 

Cut one small onion into small 
pieces, and let it simmer in butter, but 
not brown. Then add two tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, one cup of tomato puree, 
salt, pepper, summer savory, -and the 



lentils that have been washed and put 
through a sieve. When all has boiled 
a few minutes, add a quart of hot milk. 
Then pour all on the yolks of two eggs 
that have been beaten light. Just 
before serving, stir in a cup of whipped 
cream. 

Broiled Guinea Chicken with Wild 
Rice 
Cut the picked-and-singed chicken 
down through the backbone. Remove 
the unedible portions, and, cutting the 
chicken at the joints, spread it out flat. 
Wipe the fowl neatly, both inside and 
out. Cook in a well-oiled broiler, 
cooking longer upon the flesh than 
upon the skin side. After a few min- 
utes' cooking, to sear over the outside, 
the cooking may be completed in the 
oven. About thirty minutes will be 
required in cooking. Baste often with 
melted butter. Serve on a hot plat- 



86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ter. Spread upon the chicken maitre 
d' hotel butter. Serve at the same time 
boiled rice. Wild rice is particularly 
good with this dish. 



of butter and a cup of cream, for every 
three potatoes. Then make the whole 
very hot. Turn the mixture onto a 
serving-dish, and sprinkle the top with 




Broiled Guinea Chicken with Wild Rice 



Wild Rice, Boiled 
Put the rice over the fire to cook, 
in several times its volume of cold 
water, and stir occasionally until the 
boiling-point is reached. Let boil 
three minutes. Then drain, and rinse 
in cold water. Then set to cook in 
boiling water to which a little salt has 
been added. 

Salt Codfish, Shaker Style (Bertha 
Ely) 
Pick salt codfish into tiny bits. 
Cover with cold water, and let stand 
some hours or over night. Then drain 
and press out all of the water. To 
one part of fish allow three parts of 




Salt Codfish, Shaker Style. Garnish: Carrot leaves and Egg Slices 



potatoes, pared and cut in cubes or 
slices. Cook the potatoes tender in 
boiling salted water. Drain and add 
to them the fish, and two tablespoonfuls 



two hard-cooked eggs chopped or cut 
in slices. 

Hot Bread and Cheese Sandwiches 

Spread thin slices of bread with 
butter. Upon half of the buttered 
slices spread cheese, cut very thin or 
grated. Finish with the other slices 
of buttered bread. Beat an egg for 
each three or four sandwiches. Add 
half a cup of milk, and in this turn the 
sandwiches until they are saturated 
with the egg and milk. Then cook in 
hot butter until browned, first on one 
side and then on the other. Condensed 
milk, diluted with water, can be used 
for camp cookery. Deviled ham sand- 
wiches are particular- 
ly good made after 
the same fashion. 



Broiled Tomatoes 

and Green Peppers 

(Eleanor S. Mc- 

Kenzie) 

Cut fresh tomatoes 
in slices an inch thick. 
Sprinkle over them 
Put 



over 
green peppers, cut in thin strips, 
bits of butter on them here and there, 
and sprinkle lightly with salt. Cook on 
a buttered agate pan in the oven. They 



Seasonable Recipes 



7 



may be cooked either above or below a 
gas flame. 

Lima Beans Baked with Salt Pork 

Parboil one quart of lima beans 
with half a pound of salt pork. Take 
out the pork, and score it 
in slices for serving. Then 
turn the beans into a baking- 
dish. Set the pork in the 
centre, and bake until the 
beans are tender. Do not 
have the beans too moist 
when ready for the oven. 
Cover the dish for a time 
with an agate plate, then 
remove the plate to crisp 
the beans and pork. Use 
with the pork beans that 
are rather old and require 
at least two hours' cooking. 
Dried beans soaked over 
night in cold water may be used after 
an hour of parboiling. Parboil young, 
tender beans about twenty minutes. 
Add butter, pepper, and salt, and bake 
nearly an hour. Do not use pork 
with young beans, unless it be first 
cooked by itself two or more hours. 

Chicken Croquettes with Broiled 
Tomatoes 

(Entree for Luncheon or Dinner) 
Cut cold, boiled or 
roasted chicken into 
tiny bits to make a 
cup and a half. Melt 
one-third a cup of 
butter. In it cook a 
slice, each, of carrot 
and onion until all 
are yellowed ( not 
browned) . Remove 
the vegetables. Add 
half a cup of flour 
with a dash of papri- 
ka and a scant half 
a teaspoonful of salt. 
Cook and stir until the mixture is frothy 
Then add one cup of chicken stock 



seasoned with vegetables and sweet 
herbs, and half a cup of cream. Stir 
and cook until the sauce boils. Then 
remove to a cooler place, and stir in 
one egg, beaten without separating the 
white and yolk. When the egg is set 





3?^ 


1 "t*^rr^*i 


|3L* 







Lima Beans Baked with Salt Pork 

(do not allow the sauce to boil, or it 
will curdle), stir in the bits of chicken 
and more seasoning, if needed. Turn 
into a buttered dish to cool. When 
cold, shape in balls. Roll these in 
sifted bread crumbs. Then dip over 
them an egg beaten with a tablespoon- 
ful of cold water to cover every part, 
and roll a second time in crumbs. 
Fry in deep fat. Have ready half a 
tomato or a slice from a large tomato, 




Chicken Croquettes with Broiled Tomatoes 



brushed over with butter and broiled 
over the coals, for each croquette. 



88 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Set the croquettes upon the tomatoes, 
pour a white or cream sauce around 
them, and serve at once. The recipe 
makes six or eight croquettes. 




Mayonnaise of Tomato with chopped Truffle 



Russian Salad 
Have ready, cooked peas, string beans, 
cut in pieces, beets, cut in slices, and 
potato balls. Also hard-cooked eggs, 
cut in slices, tomatoes, peeled and cut 
in slices, and radishes, cut in slices, 
and shaped to resemble a flower. Let 
all these vegetables become chilled by 
standing on ice for some time. Dis- 
pose crisp, well-cleaned lettuce leaves 
in nests on a large dish. In the central 
nest place the slices of egg, with the 
other vegetables in nests around them, 
and a radish flower here and there 



Spanish Rice (Eleanor S. McKenzie) 
Cover half a cup of rice with a quart 
of cold water, and stir until the water 
boils. After five minutes drain and 
rinse with cold water, put 
in a double boiler with two 
large or three small toma- 
toes and one large or two 
small green peppers cut in 
pieces, one teaspoonful of 
salt, and about a pint of 
boiling water. Cover, and 
let cook until the rice is 
tender and the liquid ab- 
sorbed. Before serving, care- 
fully mix two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter through the 
rice. 

Cheese Ramekins 

(To serve ten) 
(Luncheon or Supper) 

Mix three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, one cup of fine bread 
crumbs, and one-fourth a pound of 
grated cheese (the dry shell of an Edam 
cheese is particularly good for this 
purpose). Beat two eggs, add a pint 
of milk, and stir into the dry ingredi- 
ents. Turn into buttered ramekin 
dishes. Bake set on several folds 




Russian Salad 



between the nests. Serve either French 
or mayonnaise dressing in a bowl apart. 
Offer a choice of vegetables to each 
one served. 



of paper and surrounded with hot 
water. Serve very hot. This mix- 
ture may also be baked in timbale 
moulds. 



Seasonable Recipes 



89 



Hasty Cake (Bertha C. Ely) 
Press through a sieve together one 
cup and a half of flour, one cup of sugar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
four level teaspoon- 
fuls of baking-pow- 
der. Melt one-fourth 
a cup of butter. Into 
it break two eggs. 
Beat until whites and 
yolks are well mixed. 
Then fill up the cup 
with cold water. Turn 
this liquid into the 
dry mixture, beat 
thoroughly, and bake. 
This, though not very 
fine-grained, is a very 
satisfactory cake to serve 
cream in an emergency. 



gredients, to make a soft dough. Add 
more milk, if needed. The dough needs 
be soft enough to be spread with a 
spoon in the pan. Pare and core an- 




with ice- 



Hot Apple Triangles 
Press through a sieve together half a 
pound (two cups) of flour, one-fourth 
a cup of sugar, two and one-half level 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Into 
this mixture, with the tips of the fingers, 
work one-fourth a cup or two ounces 



Ch( 



Rameki 



ameKins 



other apple, cut it into eighths, length- 
wise of the apple, and press these 
into the dough equal distances apart. 
Sprinkle the top with granulated sugar. 
Bake in a hot oven. Serve cut in tri- 
angles and with powdered sugar. 

Very Nice Blueberry Cake (Bertha 
C. Ely) 
Press through a sieve together two 
cups of lightly sifted flour, five level 




Hot Apple Triangles 



of shortening, and add two tart apples, 
pared, cored, and cut in small pieces. 
Beat an egg, add about one-third a 
cup of milk, and stir into the dry in- 



teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one 
cup of sugar, and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Beat one egg, add half a cup 
of milk, and stir into the drv in^redi- 



9° 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ents with two level tablespoonfuls of with one scant teaspoonful of soda 
melted butter and one teaspoonful of and half a teaspoonful, each, of cinna- 
vanilla extract. At the last stir in mon and clove. 




Very Nice Blueberry Cake 

one cup of blueberries mixed with a 
little flour. Bake in a sheet or in a 
muffin-pan. 

A Cake without an Egg (Bertha 

Ely) 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Add gradually one cup of sugar, then 




Cake Decorated with Candied Pansies and Mint Leaves 
by Mrs. Mitchell 



half a pound of seeded dates, chopped 
fine, and, alternately, one cup of thick, 
sour milk and two cups of flour, sifted 



Turon Cuchara 

(Mrs. Fox, Santiago 

de Cuba) 

Boil one pound and 

a half of sugar and 

three cups of water 

to a thick syrup. 

Then add one cup of 

honey, and boil until 

the syrup will snap 

when tried in water. 

Beat the whites of 

six eggs until stiff. 

Blanch one pound of 

almonds. Cut them 

in fine strips, and 

brown them a little in the oven. When 

the syrup is at the right point, add it, 

a little at a time, to the egg whites, 

beating meanwhile. Continue beating 

until the mixture is thick and almost 

cold. Then beat in the almonds. Serve 

in small saucers. Turon is eaten with 

a spoon. 

Peach Parfait 

Reserve one-fourth 
a cup of double cream 
to decorate the com- 
pleted dish. To the 
rest of the cup of 
double * cream add 
three-fourths a cup 
of single cream (that 
taken from the top 
of a can of milk), 
and beat the whole 
until firm enough to 
hold its shape. Press 
enough pared peaches 
through a sieve to 
fill one cup and a 
quarter. Stir into this 
a level teaspoonful of gelatine, softened 
in cold water to cover and melted by 
standing over the tea kettle. Add the 



Seasonable Recipes 



9i 



juice of a small lemon, and stir into the 
peach pulp with two-thirds a cup of 
sugar. Stir over ice water until the 
mixture thickens a 
little. Then, little by 
little, cut and fold 
the cream into it. 
Turn the mixture 
into a quart mould 
lined with paper, fill- 
ing the mould to 
overflow. Spread a 
paper over the top, 
press down the cover, 
and let stand, buried 
in equal measures of 
ice and salt, between 
two and three hours. Garnish the 
parfait turned from the mould with the 
two halves of a peach, the rest of the 
cream, sweetened and beaten stiff, and 
two or three pistachio nuts, blanched 
and chopped fine. 

Afternoon Tea for a Summer's Day 
(Bertha Ely) 
Chill a pitcher of freshly made tea 
of the desired strength. Sweeten with 



squeeze in enough lemon juice to give 
it a little tang, and set on ice again to 
get thoroughly chilled. 




Peach Parfait 

Have ready a bowl of chipped ice, a 
bowl of vanilla ice-cream, and the 
pitcher of cold tea. Fill a dainty glass 
a third full of ice, pour on tea until it 
is two-thirds full, and then drop a 
spoonful of ice-cream on top and pass 
at once on a dainty plate, with a spoon 
and a nut wafer or delicate cake. 

Orange Marmalade Ice (Bertha Ely) 
Make a "boiled custard" with one 




Afternoon Tea for a Summer's Day 



orange syrup instead of sugar, being quart of milk and the yolks of four eggs, 
careful not to get it too sweet. Then When cold, begin to freeze. Then add 



9 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a cup of orange marmalade, the juice Make a syrup of the sugar and vinegar, 
of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of with the spices added. Put in the 
sherry wine, and turn the crank until melon, and let cook until tender. 




New Designs in Crepe Paper Napkins, Golden Rod, Poinsetta and Fir Balsam 



the mixture is pretty well frozen. 
Then remove the dasher, repack, and 
set the freezer aside for the ice to ripen. 

Sweet Pickled Musk-melon 
Cut the melons in sections. Re- 
move the seeds and rind, and cut in 
pieces for serving. Weigh the melon, 
and for each seven pounds take three 



Then skim out of the syrup, drain, 
and put into fruit jars. Reduce all 
the syrup to a good consistency, and 
pour over the melon in the jars. There 
should be syrup to cover the melon. 

Old-time Tomato Catsup 
Slice a peck of ripe tomatoes and two 
dozen onions. Let them boil one hour. 




Preparing Sweet Pickled Musk-melon 



pounds and a half of sugar, a pint of Then press through a sieve. Add one 
vinegar, about an ounce of cloves, quart of vinegar, one pint of port wine, 
and two ounces of cinnamon bark. one tablespoonful of ground cloves, 



Seasonable Recipes 



93 



one tablespoonful of allspice, half an 
ounce of mace, four nutmegs, grated, 
one tablespoonful and a half of pepper, 
one scant teaspoonful of cayenne, and 
half a cup of salt. Scald over the fire, 
and store in fruit jars or in bottles, 
covering the corks with sealing wax. 

Tomato Marmalade 
Pare four quarts of ripe tomatoes. 
Cut six lemons in halves, lengthwise, 
and then slice them very thin. Seed 
one cup of raisins. Weigh out four 
pounds (eight cups) of granulated 
sugar. Put all the ingredients into a 
preserving kettle in layers. Heat slowly 
to the boiling-point. Then simmer 
until the mixture is of the consistency 
of marmalade. No one flavor should 
be recognizable. Seal while hot. The 
recipe makes about two and one-half 
quarts. 

Piccalilli 
Slice one peck of green tomatoes 
and six medium-sized onions. Sprinkle 
them with a cup and a half of salt, and 
let stand over night. Drain in a bag. 
Then turn the chopped mixture into a 
preserving kettle, cover with vinegar, 
and set over the fire. Add a scant 
teaspoonful of tumeric powder mixed 
with vinegar, one teaspoonful of cloves, 
two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two 
cups of sugar, and a red pepper chopped 
rather coarse. Mix thoroughly, and 
cook until tender, stirring occasionally. 
Store in fruit jars as canned fruit. 

Cucumber Chow-chow 
Chop fine six onions, six cucumbers, 
one head of cauliflower, half a small 
head of cabbage, half a peck of green 
tomatoes, and one red pepper, from 
which the seeds have been taken. 
Sprinkle lightly with salt, and let stand 
over night. Then drain, and add one 



teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, one 
teaspoonful of mustard seed, two tea- 
spoonfuls of celery seed, two cups of 
white sugar, a teaspoonful of white 
pepper, and vinegar enough to cover 
the whole. Let boil about half an 
hour, then store in an earthen jar or 
in fruit jars as canned fruit. 

Oriental Preserve (Bertha Ely) 
Put into a kettle two pounds of sugar 
and one quart of water. When the 
sugar is dissolved, add ten pounds of 
green tomatoes, cut in slices, one dozen 
lemons, sliced very thin, and a large 
jar of preserved ginger, cut into pieces 
about half an inch square. Add also 
the syrup in the jar. Tet this boil 
until the tomatoes are shriveled and 
crackled, and the odor is overpoweringly 
sickish. Then seal in glass jars, allow- 
ing a good quantity of syrup to every 
jar. It will look rather discouraging 
when taken from the fire, but after 
about three weeks one will feel repaid. 
It is easier to make half this quantity 
at a time. 

Sweet Potato Pie (Old Virginia 
Recipe) 

Put through a vegetable press boiled 
or baked sweet potatoes to make a 
pint of puree. Add three-fourths a 
cup of sweet milk. Beat separately 
the whites and the yolks of four eggs. 
Cream three-fourths a cup of butter. 
Add gradually three-fourths a cup of 
sugar, then beat in the yolks, the potato 
and milk, half a small nutmeg grated, 
a wine glass of brandy or whiskey (the 
same quantity of fruit juice may be 
substituted), and, last of all, fold in 
the frothed whites of the eggs. Bake in 
deep pie plates without upper crust. 
When ready to serve, sift powdered 
sugar over the top. Serve cold. 



*J£ %%& fc^r 



Economical Menus for a Week in August 

(JBconomg ts too late at tlje bottom of the purge, — Seneca. 
iftluri) broth is sometimes matie of little meat.— Danish Proverb. 



'Breakfast 

Berries, Vitos, Cream. 

Salt Codfish, Shaker Style. 

Graham Muffins. 

Coffee. 

c Dinner 

Hot Clam Broth. 

Cold Tongue, Sliced Thin. 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Blackberry Ice-cream. 

Hasty Cake. Tea. 

Supper 
Creamed Clams (Chafing-dish). 
Sliced Peaches. Cake. 



Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Shredded Wheat and Tomato Sandwich. 

Hunter's Corn-cake. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cabbage Scalloped with Cheese. 

Bread and Butter. 

Blueberry Pie. 

'Dinner 

Baked Liver and Bacon. 

Mashed Potatoes. Corn on the Cob. 

Tomato Salad. 

Baked Apples, Cream. 

Hasty Cake. Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Egg-O-See, Milk. 

Tongue, Potato-and-Green-Pepper Hash. 

Nun's Toast. Strawberry Jam. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Corn Chowder. New Pickles. 

Crackers. 

Baked Apples with Meringue. 

Cake. Tea. 

'Dinner 

Rolled Steak (Round), Casserole Fashion. 

Potatoes. Beets, Buttered. 

Hot Apple Triangles, Powdered Sugar. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Grape-nuts, Berries, Milk. 

Corn Oysters. 

Rye-meal Muffins. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Bread, Blueberries, and Milk. 

Baked Cup Custard.s. 

Wafers. Tea. 

'Dinner 

Round Steak Hashsd with Onions. 

Baked Potatoes. Wax Beans. 

Hot Apple Croutons. 

Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Melons. 

Boiled Rice, Milk. 

Salt Codfish, Shaker Style. 

Bran Muffins. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Cheese Ramekins. 

Sliced Peaches. 
Bread and Butter. 

Cold Tea. 

'Dinner 

Brown Fricassee of Kidneys. 

Summer Squash. 

New Cabbage Salad. 

English Apple Pie. Black Coffee. 



breakfast 

Melons. 

Barky Crystals, Milk. 

Omelet with Tomato Sauce. 

German Coffee Cake. Gereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Timbales. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Bread and Butter. Blackberries. 

Cold Tea. 

'Dinner 

Boiled Haddock or Salted Salmon, 

Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Onions, Buttered. 

Cucumber Salad. 

Lemon Sherbet. 



'Breakfast Luncheon 

Old Grist-mill Toasted Wheat. Succotash (Lima beans and corn). 



Baked Apples, Cream. 

Broiled Bacon. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Blueberry Muffins. 

Coffee. 



New Rye Bread and Butter. 

Squash Pie. 

Tea. 



'Dinner 

Fish Croquettes. Late Peas. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Toasted Crackers. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 

Coffee. 



MenUS for Camp (Farm Supplies Weekly) 



" 3Sut on ano up, fofjere Nature's heart 
Beats strong amtti the fjrilte.** 



Breakfast 

Grape-nuts. Stewed Prunes. 

Sliced Boiled Ham (Canned). Baked Potatoes. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Hot Bread-and-Cheese Sandwiches. 

Stewed Lima Beans (Dried). 

Hunter's Corn-cake (with Bacon). 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Broiled Fish. Baked Potatoes. 

Late Peas with Pork. 

Gingerbread. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Boiled Hominy, Molasses. 

Squizzled Salt Pork. Fried Potatoes. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Ramekins in Baking-dish. 

Hot Corn-cake. 

Doughnuts. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Salmon Trout or Black Bass. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

New Cucumber Pickles. 

Lemonade. 



Breakfast 

Corn-meal Mush, Butter. 

Bacon. Boiled Eggs. Fried Potatoes. 

Griddle-cakes. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Pudding. 

Corn on the Cob. 

Apple Sauce (Dried Apples). 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Baked Kidney Beans, Boston Style. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Cold Boiled Ham (Canned). 

Fried Mush, Molasses. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Fish Cakes Fried in Salt Pork Fat. 

Bread Crumb Griddle-cakes. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Mushroom Stew. 

Hot Bacon Sandwiches. 

Gingerbread. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Squirrel Fricassee. 

Baked Potatoes. 

New York Baked Beans. 

Muffins. Coffee. 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Butter. Blackberries. 

Fried Brook Trout. Stewed Potatoes. 

Boston Brown Bread, Toasted. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lentil Soup, Oriental Style. 

Individual Blackberry Shortcakes. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Wild Ducks, Roasted. 

Fried Hominy. 

Coffee. 



Breakfast 
Fresh Fish, Fried. 
Hashed Potatoes. 

Corn-cake. 
Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Welsh Rabbit. Bacon. 

Blueberry Pudding. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Squirrel Pie. 

Cheese. 

Apple Sauce (Fresh or Dried). 

Tea. 



Menus for a Week in September 

% poor tooman toho has an elementarg but sounlJ knotoleoge of the fooo properties of Different footis, ano 
knotos fjoto best to prepare tJjem, is less itkeig to habe anemic chtltiren than fyer more prosperous neighbors, 
if tfjeg ijabc not trjis knotoleoge.— The Epicure. 



Breakfast 

Sliced Peaches. Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Cream. 

Eggs Poached in Bacon Fat. 

Broiled Bacon. Baked Potatoes. 

Dry Toast. Corn-cake. Coffee. 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup with Vermicelli. 

Roast Loin of Lamb (Yearling). 

Currant Jelly Sauce with Orange. 

Escaloped Potatoes. Mashed Turnips. 

Lettuce Salad. 
Blackberry Shortcake. Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Baked Lima Beans. Bread and Butter. 

Sliced Apples Baked in Casserole. 

Tea. 



breakfast 

Baked Apples, Cream. 

Salt Codfish Balls. Dressed Cucumbers. 

Bacon Rolls. Fried Rice. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Minced Chicken on Toast. Celery. 

Apples Baked with Almonds, Cream. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Sword Fish, Sauted. Mashed Potatoes. 

Fried Egg Plant. 

Tomatoes, French Dressing. 

Sliced Peaches. Wafers. 

Coffee. 



breakfast 

Apples Stuffed with Dates, Baked, Cream. 

Smoked Halibut, Creamed. 

Baked Potatoes. Cucumbers. 

Coffee Cakes (Brioche). 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lamb Souffle, Tomato Sauce. 

New Rye Bread. Cream Cheese. 

Currant Preserves. Tea. 

Dinner 

Broiled Sirloin Steak, Bernaise Sauce. 

Broiled Tomatoes and Green Peppers. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Deep Peach Pie with Cream. 

Coffee (small cups). 



"Breakfast 

Grapes. 

Broiled Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. 

Pickled Beets. 

Corn-meal Muffins. Dry Toast. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Timbales, Tomato Sauce. 

New Rye Bread. 

Blackberry Sponge. Cream. 

Coffee. 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets. 

Mashed Potatoes. Stewed Celery. 

Lettuce Salad. 

Peach Ice-cream. Coffee. 



breakfast 

Vitos, Berries, Cream. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe. 

Sliced Tomatoes. Hashed Potatoes. 

Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Baked Lima Beans. 

Beets Stuffed with Chopped Cucumbers, 

French Dressing. 

Steamed Blackberry Pudding, Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 

Dinner 

Young Chickens, Roasted. Fruit Jelly. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes. Cauliflower. 

Peach Sherbet. Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Melons. 

Eggs Poached in Broth. Toast. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Spider Corn-cake. Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Hot Cauliflower, Cheese Sauce. 

Bread and Butter. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, Cream. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Dinner 

Halibut Steaks, Stuffed with Oysters, 

Hollandaise Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. Sweet Corn. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Fruit Cup (Salpicon of Peaches and Pineapple). 

Lemon Sherbet. Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream. 

Bacon Omelet. 

Stewed Potatoes. 

Waffles. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Spanish Rice. 

Peach Shortcake 

(Biscuit Crust). 

Cereal Coffee. 



Dinner 

Broth with Macaroni Rings. 
Scalloped Fish and Oysters. 

Potato Croquettes. 

Cauliflower-and-Beet Salad. 

Squash Pie, Whipped Cream. 

Coffee. 



Menus for a Week without Meat or Fish 



" JFrttits ano Huts foere tfjc original fooo of man, green herbs, grasses, ano roots taking their place 
later in his oietars." 



breakfast 

Grapes. 

Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Toasted. 

Broiled Tomatoes and Peppers. 

Parker House Rolls, Reheated. 

Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Cheese Souffle. 

Late String Beans. 

Cauliflower-and-Beet Salad. 

Entire-wheat Bread and Butter. 

Peach Ice-cream. 

Supper 

Bread and Butter. 

Cream Cheese. Berries. 

Tea. 



breakfast 

Cereal, Cream. 

Hot Baked Apples Stuffed with Dates, 

Rye Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Eggs Poached in Baked Potatoes. 

Yeast Rolls. Tea. 

Grapes. 

c Dinner 

Onion Souffle, Tomato Sauce. 

Succotash. Lettuce Salad. 

Squash Pie, Whipped Cream. 

Coffee. 



breakfast 

Hot Cereal, Butter. 

Broiled Mushrooms. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Rye-meal Rolls. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Ramekins. 

Corn on the Cob. 

Apple Dumplings. 

Cereal Coffee. 

c Dinner 

Baked Pea Beans, New York Style. 

Cabbage Salad. 

Hot Baked Peach-and-Tapioca Pudding. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. Coffee. 



breakfast 

Melons. 

Cereal, Cream. 

Coffee Cake. 

Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cheese Timbales, Cream Sauce. 

Tomato Salad. 

Bread and Butter. 

Boiled Rice, Caramel Sauce. 

Tea. 

c Dinnet 

Corn Chowder. 

Baked Lima Beans. Cole Slaw. 

Hot Apple Croutons. 

Coffee. 



breakfast 


breakfast 




Cereal, Butter. 


Berries, Cream. 




Cream Toast of Boston Brown Bread. 


Eggs in the Shell. Rolls. 




Coffee Rolls. Melons. 


Coffee. 




Coffee. 






Luncheon 


Luncheon 




Green Corn Custard. 
Shredded Wheat, Toasted. 
Baked Apples, Cream. Tea. 


Scaloped Cabbage and Cheese. 

Lima Bean Salad. 

Yeast Rolls. 

Boiled Custard. Hasty Cake. 


2 
5 
> 


c Dinnet 


Tea. 


*< 


Poached Eggs on Toast and Creamed 






Celery. 


c Dinner 




Boiled Onions, Buttered. 


Macaroni Baked with Milk and Eggs. 




Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 


Broiled Tomatoes and Green Peppers. 




Baking-powder Biscuit. 


Sweet Potato Pie. 




Blackberry Sponge, Cream. Coffee. 


Coffee. 





'Breakfast 

Cereal, Cream. 

Breakfast Corn-cake. 

Berry Rolls. 

Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Spanish Rice. 

Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Tea. 



Supper 
Lentils Baked with Tomatoes. 

Buttered Turnips. 
Cottage Pudding in Muffin- 
pan. 
Hard Sauce with Berries. 
Coffee. 



Formal Meals in August and September 

" &rje painter brill present in eberrj tiisfj a lorjelg scheme of color." 

Dinners 
i. 

Chou Paste Cases, Swedish Fashion. 

Chicken-and-Tomato Bouillon. 

Deviled Almonds. Olives. 

Boiled Salmon, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Fresh Lima Beans. Cucumbers. 

American Pheasant, Roasted. Fruit Jelly. 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad. 

Peach Sherbet. Almond Macaroons. Coffee. 



II. 

Little Neck Clams on Ice or Russian Croutons. 

Consomme, Julienne Style. 

Salted Pistachio Nuts. Olives. 

Baked Bluefish, Cucumbers. Potato Croquettes. 

Fillet Mignon of Beef, Fresh Mushroom Sauce. 

Corn Timbales (Entree). 

Roast Wild Duck, Salad Chiffonade. 

Peach Ice-cream. Angel Cake. Coffee. 



Luncheons 
i. 

Cocktail of Little Neck Clams in Tomato Cups. 

Chicken Broth en Tasse. Twigs. 

Deviled Crabs in Shells. Cucumbers. 

Fillets of Hot Baked Ham. Apple Fritters, Wine Sauce. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce (Entree). 

Broiled Spring Chickens. Salad Chiffonade. 

Grape Bombe Glace. Angel Cake. Coffee. 



II. 

Assorted Grapes. 

Bouillon Frappe. 

Broiled Fillets of Sword Fish, Maitre d'Hotel. 

Potato Diamonds with Late Peas. 

Lamb Chops, Baked with Forcemeat. Cress. Black Curran^t Jelly. 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Tomatoes. 

Meringues with Sliced Peaches and Whipped Cream. 

Coffee. 



Picnic Dinners, August 
i. 



Deviled Crabs in Shells. 

Cold Boiled Tongue, Sliced Thin. New Beets, Pickled. 

Baking-powder Biscuit, Buttered. Bread -and-Pecan Nut Sandwiches. 

Peaches. Macaroons. Hot Coffee. 



II. 

Cold Corned Beef (Brisket), Sliced Thin. 

Boiled Eggs in Shell. 

Cauliflower-and-Potato Salads. 

Graham Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Apple Turnovers. Cottage Cheese. Lemonade. Cold Coffee. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By Janet M. Hill 

It is not the revolution that destroys the machinery: it is the friction. — Beecher. 
"A poor man's greatest friends are economy and a milch cow." 



WE often recall with pleas- 
ure the memory of a mother 
we once knew. She was the 
wonder of her friends, and time has 
only increased our admiration of her. 
When we first met this woman, she was 
the mother of six children, and in the 
course of time four more were added 
to the group. With ten children to 
feed, clothe, and educate on an in- 
come that admitted of outside help 
only on rare occasions, one might nat- 
urally expect to see a thin, irritable, 
and overworked woman. On the con- 
trary, she was wholesome and rosy- 
cheeked, invariably cheerful, happy, 
and ready to enter into any practicable 
scheme that promised diversion for 
her friends or her family. 

With her the end of life was the sat- 
isfaction of those about her. Furni- 
ture, house, meals, everything was 
contrived for the comfort of home 
life. Did the father wish to bring 
home an acquaintance or a child wish 
a companion to stay to dinner, each 
knew his wishes would be considered: 
company meant simply another plate, 
knife, and fork, and sitting a little 
closer. 

Was a house desired for a church 
sociable or a committee meeting, Mrs. 
S.'s house was always available, and 
on short notice. Nor was her hos- 
pitality accepted merely as a last re- 
sort, but because it was known that 



here a hearty and sincere welcome 
would be extended to each and all, ir- 
respective of age or calling. 

To be sure, the family name carried 
prestige, which did much to atone for 
well-worn, even shabby, furnishings; 
but, unaccompanied by intrinsic worth 
of some kind, ancestry is of little worth. 

Good health and a cheerful dispo- 
sition was the inheritance of each child 
of the family; and the happy, con- 
tented babies grew up to look out for 
themselves and each other. No one 
was a drudge. All were willing to 
share in the routine of housework, 
and friction was reduced to the min- 
imum. 

One great advantage this family 
possessed: they did not live in a city 
or large town, but in a village, on a 
small plot of land whose resources were 
a never-failing storehouse for table sup- 
plies, and this brings us to the central 
thought of our chat. 

Living in a city or large town with 
no resource for supplies, as a berry 
patch, garden, fruit-tree, or hennery, 
one can scarcely realize with what a 
small allowance of money a family in 
the country may be fed. Eliminate 
the friction caused by trying to make 
one dollar do the work of five in feed- 
ing a family, while all the time feel- 
ing that even that dollar ought to be 
spent for shoes and stockings instead 
of food, and life for many a woman 



IOO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



would take on a brighter aspect. The 
tension on nerves and health would 
be withdrawn, and happiness begin 
to reign at once. Let a woman with 
a family of children live for one sea- 
son in the real country, where there 
is pasturage for a cow*, fuel for the 
gathering, and fruit of all kinds for the 
picking, and she will exclaim again 
and again, Why do not more people 
come to the country to live? 

Nor is this all. Children in the 
country, almost as soon as they can 
walk, may be turned loose to run at 
will. In the city, children, either young 
or old, must be watched and guarded 
constantly, lest this or that harm come 
upon them. In the city the dust and 
germ-laden air is a constant menace 
to health. In the country there is no 
dust except in the roadways, and these 
one is able to shun. In the country 
plain gowns, easily laundered, are in 
harmony with the surroundings, and 
the "frivols of fashion" are unlonged 
for. By all means let all of us, and 
more especially the woman with a 
family, seek the free, untrammelled life 
of the country for at least nine months 
of the year. A child who has not 
played in a babbling brook, raked after 
the hay-cart, pulled daisies and clover 
to his heart's desire, sampled berries 
from the vines, and watched the rain 
as it marshalled its forces on the dis- 
tant hills, has been deprived of some 
of the joys of life, which can never be 
made up to him. 



To the casual reader, the menus for 
a week without meat or fish may seem 
to be lacking in what one might call 
"nutrition." But she who reads a 
menu aright knows that every article 
that enters into the composition of a 
dish, as well as the cream and sugar 
taken with tea, coffee, and cereal, has 
a definite food value, which has to be 
reckoned with by the body. Are they 
needed, well and good: are they su- 



perfluous, they must be gotten rid of, 
for they will clog and burden the sys- 
tem as long as they are retained. An 
adult, probably, needs no more than 
three ounces of protein daily. Take, 
for instance, in the menus without 
meat or fish, the dinner suggested for 
Tuesday. Each article given con- 
tains protein, though the bulk of this 
principle is found in the eggs and milk 
in the "Poached Eggs on Toast with 
Creamed Celery"; but eggs, again, 
are used in the mayonnaise and in 
the blackberry sponge, so that the 
menu, while containing no beans, peas, 
macaroni, or cheese, which are some 
of the principal "stand-bys" of the 
vegetarian, is in no way deficient in 
the first principle of importance in a 
dietary; and, when the protein in the 
other meals for the day is considered, 
without doubt the three ounces of 
protein regarded as essential is amply 
provided for. 

This being the case, unless the por- 
tions eaten be very small, do not many 
of us eat too much, by far, of meat, 
fish, and eggs, or highly nutritious 
food, especially when we take into 
consideration the rich puddings, bread, 
sauces, and dressings, which we are 
wont to consider necessary adjuncts 
to an already highly nutritious meal? 
During midsummer, when we are in- 
clined to be indolent and when, too, 
there is little need of fdbd to sustain 
bodily heat, the wise woman will cur- 
tail the quantity of food she supplies 
her family; she also will substitute 
fruit and green salads for puddings 
and cakes, which are again to be in 
demand when the cooler weather of 
autumn is at hand. 

New and Novel Articles for Mid- 
summer 
A Refrigerator Picnic Basket 
There have been picnic baskets and 
picnic baskets, but the last and newest 
one will certainly prove a joy to the 



Grape-fruit Supreme 



01 



possessor. A strong, well-made, rattan 
basket of oval shape is lined with heavy 
tin in such a way as to make a com- 
partment for food and a smaller one 
for ice. The handles turn down, and 
thus the basket can be readily pushed 
under the seat of the wagon and be 
out of the way. 

Revival of Pewter Ware 
The use of pewter — the ware that 
succeeded the wooden trenchers of our 
colonial ancestors — has been revived, 
and antiquated plates, coffee urns, 
tankards, and candlesticks are again 
used upon the table or to ornament 
the buffet or mantel -piece. To meet 



this revival of interest in an old-time 
ware, the same quaint shapes of old are 
now made in pewter, and also dupli- 
cated in alloys of pewter that show its 
dull finish without the objectional 
features always connected with this 
ware. 

A New Idea in Finger Bowls 
From the Union Glass Company 
come the graceful-shaped basket for 
flowers and the unique finger bowl 
with accompanying glass plate, made 
for the Arts and Crafts Society. These 
are shown on pages 61 and 66 of this 
issue. These conceits in glass have 
only to be seen, to be desired. 



Grape-fruit Supreme 



WHO that has ever beheld and 
tasted grape-fruit supreme 
at the Bellevue-Stratford can 
ever forget it ? 

To look upon that hemispherical 
globe of lusciousness is to desire it. 
To taste it is to feel that life as yet 
has many enticements. 

So for those who would make it 
at home, and eat thereof all that they 
wish, this description is penned: — 

First there is an immense round 
goblet, so large it is more like a stemmed 
bowl than a goblet, filled with the finest 
of shaved ice. Embedded in this polar 
crystal is a ball of grape-fruit. This 
had previously been picked apart and 
pressed into the size and shape of a 
large orange. 

This golden ball shows fairly through 
the ice and at the top, where it is all 



leveled flat. In a circle just outside 
of the grape-fruit are laid little cherry 
rings, made by stoning brandied cher- 
ries and' slicing them thin. There are 
only about six or eight of these rings, 
and in the centre of each one is placed 
a dainty blossom of some kind, pref- 
erably a fruit blossom. 

In the centre is piled a tiny pyra- 
mid of the cherries. Over the whole 
is poured maraschino. Now, with a 
cherry-red satin ribbon, tied in a 
saucy bow on the stem, the grape- 
fruit supreme is ready to serve. 

To Steward McLoughlin, of the 
Bellevue-Stratford, belongs the credit 
of this exquisite ice. It may be va- 
ried as the season brings the various 
fruits. Strawberry and canteloupe 
supreme are made along the same 
lines. 




The Care of the Dining Room 



Daily Care 

LAY a fire ready to light, then 
brush up the hearth, wipe the 
^andirons and brass- work about 
the hearth with a dry cloth. Sweep 
the rugs with carpet-sweeper, and rub 
over the hard-wood border of the floor 
with a dry cloth or a long-handled 
dust mop. Dust each article in the 
room thoroughly with clean cheese- 
cloth, being careful to take up the dust 
rather than scatter the same. Have 
the windows open meanwhile, and 
shake the cloth out of a window occa- 
sionally. Put fresh water into vases 
of flowers, and lay the table. After 
a meal is finished and the table cleared, 
roll the table-cloth over the pasteboard 
made for the purpose, and lay it aside. 
Remove all crumbs from the floor and 
rug, open the windows and air the 
room, then adjust the window shades 
and leave the fireplace in order. Air- 
ing the room after each meal should 
never be omitted. 

Weekly Care 
Preparations for Sweeping 
Once a week clean the dining-room 
thoroughly. Roll small rugs, to be 
brushed outside. If the rug under the 
table be too large for care outside, push 
the table from the rug into one corner 
of the room. Over the table spread 
a calico cover or cotton sheet kept for 
this purpose. Upon this set the dishes 
from the sideboard and the orna- 
ments from the mantel, and cover 
closely. Take down draperies that are 
easily removed, and hang them in the 



open air. Close all doors and drawers 
to cabinets, closets, etc. Cover the 
chairs or remove them from the room. 
Cover clock and pictures. Remove 
the brass and steel from position, and 
clean the fireplace. If there are regis- 
ters in the floor, lift them out, and set 
on a newspaper spread upon the floor. 
Wipe the pipes leading from the reg- 
isters to the furnace, as far as you can 
reach, with a cloth slightly dampened. 
Put the registers back in place, and 
shut them to keep out the dust from 
sweeping. Close the doors leading 
from the dining-room, and open the 
windows. 

Sweeping and Dusting 
Sweep the rug thoroughly, and with 
the nap, taking short strokes. Roll up 
the rug, and sweep the floor with a 
long-handled bristle brush. If the rug 
can be taken out of doors, spread it, 
nap side down, on the grass, and beat 
with a rattan made for the purpose. 
Then sweep this side. Turn the rug, 
and sweep the other side with the nap. 
Small rugs may be hung on the line, 
and the dust be beaten from them with 
the rattan. Avoid shaking rugs by the 
ends, which are thus easily injured. 
With a soft brush, such as is used by 
painters, brush the dust from the win- 
dows and doors, going over all mould- 
ings and edges, the outer sill of the 
windows, etc. Tie a bag, made for 
the purpose (of Canton flannel or sim- 
ilar material), over the broom, and 
brush the ceiling, the cornice, and the 
walls downward. Then with a dry 



The Up-to-date Waitress 



103 



cheese-cloth go over the doors, win- 
dows, and finishing a second time. 
The hearth, having been properly 
brushed when the floor was swept, is 
now ready to be washed, and the brass 
and steel may be polished, and re- 
placed. 

Cleaning Tiles 

If the fireplace is finished with tiles, 
wash these with a soft cloth in soap 
and water, and polish with the follow- 
ing preparation: five pints of boiling 
water, two ounces of laundry soap, 
one ounce of sal-soda, half a pound of 
wax, and an equal volume of turpen- 
tine. Shave the soap and wax very 
fine. Add the water, and stir over 
the fire until the ingredients are dis- 
solved. Then add the soda. Re- 
move from the fire, and stir until cold. 
Then store in a covered vessel. When 
ready to use, gently heat a cup of the 
mixture. Remove from the fire, and 
gradually stir into it a cup of turpen- 
tine. Use this to clean and polish tiles 
or marble. 

Washing Glass and Windows 
First rub over mirrors, windows, 
glass in cabinets, etc., with a soft, dry 
cheese-cloth, to remove dust. Then 
wash with a soft cloth wrung out of 
warm water, in which has been put a 
little liquid ammonia. Wash every 
part of the glass. Rub dry with a 
clean, soft cloth, and polish with tissue 
paper or a piece of chamois skin. If. 
one is willing to take time to remove 
all traces of whiting, this substance 
with household ammonia will clean 
glass very quickly. Mix the whiting 
to a thin paste with equal measures of 
ammonia and water. Rub this over 
the glass, and, when dry, remove the 
whiting with a soft cloth, and polish 
with tissue paper. 

Weekly Care of Hard-wood Floor 
The floor has been swept with the 



bristle broom, and the dust taken up. 
If the rug has been removed for clean- 
ing, the quantity of dust in the room 
should be very small. Now wipe over 
the floor with a cloth wrung out of 
warm water. Wring the cloth as dry 
as possible, and remove all spots. 
Then rub over any spots from which 
the polish has been worn with a cloth 
moistened in oil and turpentine, and 
rub again with a weighted brush. 
Woollen cloths or carpet may take 
the place of the weighted brush; but 
of course, in this case, the work will 
be more tedious. 

Care of Bristle Brush, Dust Mop (Soft 

Cotton String), and Weighted 

Brush 

The weighted brush needs to be kept 
free from oil and perfectly clean. As it 
is used infrequently, it should be cov- 
ered at once after use with a cotton 
bag. Two or three times a year cleanse 
thoroughly. To half a kitchen pail of 
lukewarm water add three tablespoon- 
fuls of household ammonia. Put the 
brush into this. Let remain half an 
hour. Then lift up and down in the 
water, and rinse in clear cold water. 
Let dry slowly in a current of air. 
Shake the dust mop every time it is 
used. Twice a month soak in water 
to which a little household ammonia 
has been added. Then rinse in warm 
water, and dry in the open air. Wash 
the bristle brush in the same way, but 
do not let the water come up over the 
top of the brush. 

To restore the Polish on the Dining 
Table, Sideboard, or Side 
Table 
Rub the table top free from spots 
with a soft cloth and furniture polish. 
Occasionally take some convenient 
time to thoroughly repolish. Pow- 
dered pumice-stone or rottenstone, 
with linseed or paraffin oil, haircloth, 
felt, and linen cloths, are needed for 



io4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



this purpose. A "rubber" is a help 
in this work, and may be made at 
home. Cover a piece of hard wood 
eight or ten inches long and three or 
four inches thick and wide with sev- 
eral thicknesses of cotton batting. 
Over this fasten several thicknesses of 
old cotton cloth, and finish with sev- 
eral thicknesses of old linen. The felt 
or haircloth is used first, and this 
should be five or six inches square. 
Mix pumice-stone with oil to a thin 
paste. Spread this over a portion of 
the table top, and rub gently with the 
felt or haircloth, using first a circular 
movement. Then rub across, and at 
last with the grain of the wood. Re- 
new the liquid paste as needed to ob- 
viate any friction, and add oil as well 
as paste if the haircloth or felt does 
not run smoothly. Continue the rub- 
bing until the whole surface has been 
gone over. Polish with the second 
piece of haircloth or felt until the sur- 
face is dry. Take equal parts of oil 
and turpentine. Wet a soft cheese- 
cloth in these, and go over the whole 
surface. Then leave the table for 
about an hour. Then sprinkle the sur- 
face with fine tripoli or rottenstone, that 
it may take up any surplus oil. Wipe 
off the tripoli with the grain of the 
wood and with a very soft cloth. 
Give the final polishing with the " rub- 
ber." Powdered pumice-stone is very 
satisfactory for use on ordinary pieces 
of furniture, but for very fine and hand- 
some pieces tripoli is preferable. Hair- 
cloth, such as is used in stiffening coats 
and dresses, or pieces of felt cut from 
old hats, are quite as satisfactory as 
the felt purchased from a painter, for 
the former may be burned after use, 
while the latter, being expensive, needs 



be washed with care, and put aside for 
future use. 

To finish Dusting 
Remove coverings from clock, pict- 
ures, chairs, etc. Shake these in the 
air, fold neatly, and lay them aside in 
their proper place. Then dust each 
article with care. In removing the 
dust from over the doors, windows, 
etc., avoid the use of a feather duster 
as much as possible. A step-ladder 
makes possible the use of a soft cloth 
and the taking up of dust rather than 
the scattering of it. When the room 
is again in order, if there be time be- 
fore the preparations for the next meal 
are begun, the brass of the fireplace 
may be polished. 

Cleaning Brass 

Brass and copper are cleaned very 
easily with acids ; but, unless the acids 
are completely and immediately re- 
moved, the surface tarnishes again 
very quickly. Perhaps, all things con- 
sidered, the use of salt and vinegar for 
cleansing, followed by polishing with 
rottenstone or tripoli and sweet or 
linseed oil, will be found as satisfactory 
as any of the means commonly em- 
ployed. 

i. Mix salt with vinegar or oxalic 
acid. 

2. With a soft cloth wet in this 
mixture. Rub the surfacfc until the 
tarnish is removed. 

3. Wash the brass in clear water, 
and wipe dry. 

4. Polish with rottenstone, whiting, 
or tripoli and sweet oil, using a woollen 
cloth. 

5. Finish polishing with a dry, soft 
flannel. 




Home Ideas 

AND 

C0N0MIE5 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



New Ideas from a Liner's Chef 

THAT a transatlantic liner can 
give some new ideas, in addi- 
tion to those of travel per se, some of 
the following cullings from the menus 
of a recent voyage go to show : — 

Celery boiled as asparagus, and 
served with a drawn butter sauce. 

Cranberry pancake, rolled. 

Boiled artichoke served with grated 
cheese. 

Spinach cooked with Limburger 
cheese. 

Hazel-hen served before the sweets. 
(This game has a particularly offen- 
sive odor.) 

Green gages served in lettuce salad. 

Eggs cooked in sea water. 

Chopped pickles in scrambled eggs. 

Cold eels in a gelatine, such that one 
cannot detect the little fins ; and these 
are swallowed unconsciously. 

At Naples some of the third-class 
passengers aboard ate the inner tip 
of certain pine cones. 

Whether all of the above are con- 
ducive to the Mahlzeit, which the 
captain wishes the passengers on tak- 
ing his seat at table, it is left to the 
reader to guess. Certain, however, 
that some of the dishes are not nearly 
as bad as they sound, especially when 
accompanied by the free table wines 
served by the ship. 

F. J. Koch. 

Lunch-room for High-school 
Students 

TWO years ago the Woman's Club 
of Lincoln, Neb., decided that it 
would be a wise plan to establish a 
lunch-room for the high-school students. 



The Board of Education was con- 
sulted, and the use of the rooms in the 
basement of the old high-school build- 
ing was secured. 

The club had enough money in the 
treasury to partially fit up a kitchen; 
and, with the aid of some interested 
dealers, the kitchen was equipped. 
The Board of Education painted the 
rooms, and gave tables and chairs 
for the dining-room. A good cook 
was engaged; and, with the assist- 
ance of three maids, a checker, and 
cashier, all under the supervision of 
a manager (a Boston Cooking School 
graduate), the lunch-room was started 
Sept. 6, 1903. 

What a rush we had the first day! 
The lunch-room was new, and all the 
students were anxious to see just how 
such a place was managed. They en- 
tered through one door, took their 
plates, walked past the counter, helped 
themselves to sandwiches, cake, des- 
sert, milk, or fruit, then came to the 
steam table, where hot meat, one veg- 
etable, cocoa, and soup were served. 
From there they passed out into the 
dining-room, took their silverware, re- 
ceived a check, paid for their lunch, and 
then sat down to the tables to enjoy 
the repast. 

It was wonderful how many children 
we could serve in a short space of 
time, often three hundred and fifty 
in twenty minutes. 

The lunch-room has now been run- 
ning for two years, has paid its own 
expenses, and, in spite of the cheap- 
ness of the meals, has been able to give 
$100 to the high school. We charged 
5 cents for meat, 3 cents for vegeta- 



io6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



bles, 3 cents for cocoa or soup, 2 cents 
for bread and butter, 3 cents for sand- 
wiches, 2 cents for milk, 3 cents for 
desserts, 2 cents for fruit, 1 cent for 
cake, 1 cent for pickles or olives, and 
4 cents for ice-cream. The following 
is one of our menus : — 

Cream of Tomato Soup. 
Veal Loaf , Gravy- 
Mashed Potatoes. 
Peanut Sandwiches. 
Bread and Butter. 

Cocoa. Milk. 

Orange Custard. 

Cake. Fruit. Pickles. 

The menus are changed every day. 

The lunch-room has been well pa- 
tronized by the students during the 
entire time. The best of food has been 
supplied, and has been sold at the 
lowest possible price. 

The principal of the high school has 
noticed a marked improvement in 
the recitations of the students after 
the noon hour, and he is confident 
that it is due to their having good 
and wholesome food. We only hope 
that this idea may be carried out in 
more high schools. 

Margarkt Whkdon. 



To Preserve Eggs 

PUT one pint of lime (unslacked) 
into a large firkin, and pour over 
it boiling water. When lime is slacked 
and water has somewhat cooled, add 
one pint of coarse fine salt, and let 
dissolve. 

Mix thoroughly. Then take stone 
jars or tubs, and put your eggs into 
them with small end of egg down- 
ward, and pack as firmly as possible, 
so, when water is poured over them, 
they won't float out of position. The 
eggs must be perfectly fresh, to insure 
success. 

When all the eggs are well packed, 
stir the lime and salt water mixture 
from the bottom, and dip out from 
the bottom with a dipper, and pour 



carefully over the eggs until all are com- 
pletely covered. Then place in a cool 
dark place. They will keep six months. 
I have had eggs so put up in July, 
and used them in November for angel 
cake; and it was unsurpassed. 

Bertha EXy. 

Plum Possibilities 

HAVING a superabundance of the 
so-called "abundance" plum last 
year, I tried various experiments that 
may be of use to some. 

Plum Jelly. — Take the plums before 
they are wholly ripe. Cover with 
boiling water, and let them boil slowly 
until they are thoroughly cooked. 
Then drain in a jelly bag. Use an 
equal measure of sugar and plum 
juice, and finish like other jellies. 

Plum Marmalade. — Remove the plums 
from the jelly bag before the juice 
is entirely drained, and put them 
through a wire strainer. Sweeten to 
taste, and simmer until the sugar is 
thoroughly dissolved. 

Baked Plums. — Put ripe plums in 
an earthen pudding- dish, cover with 
a generous allowance of sugar, and add 
a little water. Bake slowly until 
cooked through. These are also nice 
cooked on the top of the stove in the 
same way. 

Plum Sherbet. — Cover plums with 
hot water. Simmer until thoroughly 
cooked. Then press through a wire 
strainer. Add water and sugar to 
suit the taste, and other fruit juices, 
if desired. Then freeze. 

They also make a nice pudding, if 
used with tapioca in place of apples. 

M. B. L. 

THE president of Bryn Mawr 
College entertains the Freshmen 
at a reception at the beginning, 
and the Senior Class by a luncheon, at 
the end of each year. At the Seniors' 
luncheon this year the table, in the 
form of a letter V, was spread upon 



Home Ideas and Economies 



107 



the porch, the president, Miss M. 
Carey Thomas, being seated at the 
point of the V, from where she could 
see and be seen when addressing the 
class. The ices were served in the 
form of owls, since the owl is the col- 
lege bird, sculptured in stone on the 
walls of Rockefeller Hall, and em- 
blazoned upon the arms of the college. 
These birds of ice-cream were held 
erect by means of a small wooden base 
set upon the plate. 



Library Paste 

THIS paste can be made at home 
with little trouble, and kept in 
covered jelly- tumblers or pint jars, 
where a quantity is desired. Often it 
is needed by book clubs, when covers 
are to be put on to magazines, etc. 
The ingredients are five pints of cold 
water, six heaping tablespoonfuls of 
flour, one tablespoonful of gum arabic, 
one teaspoonful of alum, and one tea- 
spoonful of oil of cloves. 

Put four pints of the water and the 
gum arabic on the stove. While these 
are heating, mix the flour and the 
alum with the remaining pint of water. 
When the water is hot, but not boil- 
ing, add the alum and flour mixture, 
and stir constantly until it boils. 
When well thickened and smooth, add 
the oil of cloves, and put it in jars 
while hot. 

The alum keeps bugs away, other- 
wise roaches, etc., would do much 
damage, because attracted by the 
flour. The oil of cloves assists in 
keeping it from spoiling. 

This rule was obtained from a pro- 
fessional librarian. 

Juua Davis Chandler. 



Window Kitchen 

MY friend returned from Paris 
with the window-kitchen idea 
ready to introduce into an American 
apartment for light housekeeping, 



where space is limited and conven- 
iences are lacking. 

First, get permission from the owner. 
Have a carpenter build a small wooden 
extension outside of your dining-room 
window, the floor and sides of which 
should be even with the frame. Have 
a pane of glass for light in the end op- 
posite your window, and the roof made 
pointed with an opening at the top 
to ventilate. 

Set the gas or oil stove on the floor 
of the extension, where you can reach 
it by opening your window. Put zinc 
around it, to prevent fire, and above 
the ventilator to keep out rain. 

Close the window when you are 
through cooking, or set a screen in 
front of it. y. 

Two Suggestions for Corned Beef 

SO says the butcher, and this 
particular butcher may be relied 
upon. Corned beef, to be used hot, 
is at its best only when it has been 
boiled according to the following rules: 

Cover with cold water. Bring has- 
tily to a boil, and simmer one-half hour 
to the pound (or longer) until tender. 
Allow to stand in same water until 
perfectly cold. When preparing your 
dinner, boil it once more in the same 
water until thoroughly heated, and 
serve with drawn butter or horserad- 
ish sauce. 

As a Base for Soup. — To make va- 
riety, try as a base for vegetable soup 
the stock from corned beef. Cool, skim, 
add tomato, onion, carrot, and cab- 
bage. Frequently the addition of such 
seasoning as nutmeg, bay leaf, or 
Worcestershire sauce, is the making of 
a soup that seems to need a last touch. 



Nothing new under the Sun 
T is an old and trite adage that 
"there is nothing new under the sun " ; 
and wearied cooks in their search for 
novelty must sometimes heartily ac- 



1 



io8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



quiesce. But, if there is nothing in 
itself new, there are combinations of 
familiar edibles which touch the palate 
as novelties. For instance, hot choco- 
late sauce with ice-cream has long been 
on our dinner and luncheon menus; 
but how many know that cream puffs 
— common or garden cream puffs 
bought at the corner bakery — become 
quite an idealized dish when served 
with hot chocolate sauce? They thus 
lose all resemblance to "a boughten 
dessert," and have the added recom- 
mendation of being a quickly prepared 
"emergency dish." 

Figs Stewed in Claret 
Figs also appear in new and pala- 
table form, if stewed long and slowly 
in claret and sugar. The sugar must 
be added to taste, and the quantity 
depends largely on the acidity of the 
claret used. When the figs are quite 
tender and the syrup has boiled thick, 
the mixture may be taken from the 
stove, and set on the ice until thor- 
oughly chilled. It is served in tall 
f rappe glasses, topped with stiff whipped 
cream, and makes a very delicious 
luncheon sweet. 

Celery Stuffed with Cheese 
A combination of cheeses makes a 
novel stuffing for celery. Equal parts 
of Roquefort, Camembert, and cream 
cheese, are crushed together in a mortar. 
Sherry is added until the mixture is 
of the consistence of thick mayon- 
naise. This is then spread on the 
stalks of celery, which have been previ- 
ously separated. This makes a good 
accompaniment to cold meat. 

A New Dainty for Five-o'clock 

Tea 

A favorite dainty much served at the 
tea-hour in New York last winter 
was a macaroon sandwich. It was 
made by pressing together two very 



fresh macaroons, with a liberal layer 
of cream cheese between. 

Ruth H. Fuller. 



The Correct Bride's Cake 

THE London Sun is responsible for 
the following: "The correct bride's 
cake from now on will be a simple loaf, 
spiced and fruited, iced and wreathed 
in natural orange blossoms, and only 
large enough to exactly supply the 
bridal party. Of course, the ring, 
spoon, and thimble will be baked into 
the loaf; and the centre of the table 
will be still occupied by the gorgeous 
plaster and nougat edifice, meant for 
ornamentation, not for food. Then 
for guests at the reception the con- 
fiseur sends tiny bridal loaves. Every 
one is a miniature cake in itself, ap- 
propriately spiced, cut square, in a 
circle or heart form, iced, wreathed 
with artificial orange blossoms and 
bearing in high sugar relief the couple's 
initials in the centre. Every one of 
these toy cakes is to fit, at a costly 
wedding, in a box of watered white 
silk, having a hinged top, and fastened 
with white wax, stamped with the 
bride's seal." 



ICE-CREAM is generally looked upon 
as a perishable commodity; but, as 
a matter of fact, the best kinds of 
ice-cream, properly made and frozen, 
are shipped all over the world. Steam- 
ships for England and Germany are 
often supplied in New York with suffi- 
cient ice-cream to last on the journey 
over, and the return trip as well. 
Mediterranean ships have been sup- 
plied in similar fashion with enough 
frozen cream for a round trip. Amer- 
ican ice-cream has gone even to China 
and Australia. This was taken first 
across the Atlantic to Bremerhaven, 
there repacked and placed in cold rooms 
of steamers for the Orient, where it ar- 
rived in good shape. — Home and Abroad. 



©aewea AnawcRa 



and 



£*& 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be 
cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1044. — S. H., Worcester, Mass. : 
"Recipe for angel parfait." 

Angel Parfait 
Boil three-fourths a cup of sugar 
and one-third a cup of boiling water 
until, when tested in cold water, a 
soft ball may be formed. Pour in a 
fine stream onto the whites of two eggs, 
beaten very light, beating constantly 
meanwhile. Beat occasionally until 
cold. Then fold in one cup of double 
cream and one cup of single, or thin, 
cream, beaten solid to the bottom of 
the bowl. Flavor with a scant table- 
spoonful of vanilla extract or two 
tablespoonfuls of wine. Turn into a 
mould lined with paper, filling the 
mould to overflow. Cover with paper. 
Press the cover in place, and let stand 
buried in equal measures of salt and 
ice about three hours. This is par- 
ticularly good with strawberry sauce 
or sliced peaches. 



Query 1045. — Mrs. T. G., Nashville, Tenn. : 
"Recipes for frozen pudding and lemon cus- 
tard with cornstarch and without milk or 
butter." 

Frozen Pudding 
Cook half a pound of French candied 
fruit (cherries, plums, etc.), cleaned 
currants, sultana raisins, and sliced 
citron, mixed, until tender, in half a 
cup of sugar and half a cup of water, 
or let the fruit stand over night cov- 
ered with Jamaica rum. Drain and 



chill. Make a boiled custard of one 
pint of milk, one cup of sugar, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and the 
yolks of five eggs, or use two level tea- 
spoonfuls of cornstarch and the yolks 
of three eggs. Strain, add one pint of 
cream, and turn into the freezer. 
When half frozen, add the fruit and 
flavoring (vanilla or wine). Finish 
freezing, and pack in a melon mould. 
The mould may be lined with lady 
fingers, soaked in wine. Cover with 
paper, and let stand an hour or more, 
packed in equal measures of salt and 
ice. Serve with whipped cream, sweet- 
ened and flavored. 

Lemon Custard without Milk or 
Butter 

Dilute three level teaspoonfuls of 
cornstarch with water to make a thin 
paste. Pour over it, while stirring, 
one cup of boiling water. Stir and 
cook ten minutes. Then add the grated 
rind and juice of a large lemon, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, a cup of 
sugar, and the beaten yolks of two eggs. 
Stir and cook until the egg is set. 
Then turn into a baking -dish. Cover 
with a meringue made of the whites of 
two eggs, four level tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, and a few drops of vanilla. Let 
stand in the oven ten minutes to cook 
the meringue. 



Query 1046. — Mrs. A. H., Angelica, N.Y. : 
How many pounds of uncooked fowl, bunches 



IO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of celery, and quarts of mayonnaise are needed 
to serve 150 guests with chicken salad?" 

Chicken Salad for 150 

A fowl weighing three pounds and a 
half yields one pint of meat. Rather 
less than the same measure of celery is 
called for. A bunch would give this 
quantity, and sometimes more. About 
half the measure — more rather than 
less — of the combined chicken and 
celery of mayonnaise is needed, say a 
cup and a half. This quantity will 
serve from eight to ten people. To 
serve one hundred and fifty multiply 
by fifteen, and the quantity secured 
will not be far out of the way; i.e., 52 J 
pounds of chicken, a dozen or fifteen 
bunches of celery, and six quarts of 
mayonnaise. 

Query 1047. — "Zambo," Zambranga, P.I. : 
"How is Russian ' caviare ' prepared for serv- 
ing? Also recipes for cooking fish roe." 

Serving Russian Caviare 
Caviare is used in various individual 
dishes that take the place of raw oysters. 
A few drops of lemon juice are added 
to the caviare after it is taken from 
the receptacle in which it is pur- 
chased. Occasionally a few drops of 
oil are added alternately with the 
lemon juice. The dish, in which the 
oil, lemon juice, and caviare are mixed, 
may be rubbed over with the cut side 
of a clove of garlic. Other than this 
the caviare needs no preparation. It 
is served in tiny puff-paste patties, 
Swedish timbale cases, or chou-paste 
cases (round or Eclair shape), as a 
sandwich filling, a covering for rounds 
of bread fried in oil or butter and 
cooled, or as a decoration for a Russian 
fish salad. 

Cooking Fish Roe 

Put the roe in water a little below 

the boiling-point, taking care not to 

break the thin outer skin of the roe. 

Add a tablespoonful of lemon juice or 



vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt to 
each quart of water. Heat the water 
to the boiling-point, then let simmer 
about twenty minutes. When cold, 
cut in slices or cubes. Serve in cream 
sauce or tomato sauce, Newburg 
style, in croquettes, in a souffle, in an 
omelet, au gratin style, or as a salad. 

Fish Roe Salad 
Let the cubes of roe stand, mixed 
with salt, paprika, oil, and lemon juice, 
in a cool place until ready to serve. 
Then drain, add an equal measure of 
cucumber slices, dress with mayon- 
naise or French dressing, and serve at 
once on lettuce leaves. 

Shad Roe, Maryland Style 
Put two or three uncooked roe in 
a well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, and half cover 
with broth. Add two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, cut in pieces. Cover the 
pan, and cook in the oven fifteen min- 
utes. Keep hot on the range until the 
stock is reduced to one cup or less. 
Beat the yolks of three eggs, add one 
cup of thin cream, and stir into the 
hot sauce very slowly. Cook over hot 
water until thickened slightly, adding 
meanwhile two tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Also add salt and pepper, if re- 
quired, and pour over the roe. Gar- 
nish with thin slices of broiled bacon. 
Other roe than shad may he cooked in 
the same manner. 



Query 1048. — Mrs. G. C. Valdez, Alaska: 
"Recipe for Mexican enchilades. How may 
the skins be removed from dried red chili 
peppers?" 

Mexican Enchilades 
Have ready the dark meat of a cold, 
cooked chicken. Chop this rather fine. 
Cut five or six large red chili peppers 
in halves. Remove the seeds. Then 
cover the peppers with boiling water, 
and let cook until tender. Then press 
through a very fine sieve. The skin 



Queries and Answers 



in 



will remain in the sieve. Often the 
chilis are simply soaked in warm water 
until the flesh is quite soft. Then the 
soft portions may be scraped from the 
skin or passed through a fine sieve. 
To the chopped chicken, seasoned with 
salt, add about two tablespoonfuls of 
the pepper puree. Beat two eggs very 
light, but without separating the white 
and yolk, add a cup of milk. Then 
pour this mixture very gradually into 
enough corn-meal to make a thin batter. 
About three-fourths a cup will be needed. 
About twice this quantity of flour 
(which is sometimes used) would be 
required. Add a few grains of salt to 
the flour. Have ready a hot frying-pan. 
Put in a little olive oil, rather more than 
in making griddle -cakes. Then turn 
in enough batter to make a thin cake 
several inches in diameter. Shake the 
pan until the mixture is set. Then 
put two tablespoonfuls of the chicken 
mixture on one side of the cake. Roll 
up the cake, and remove to a serving- 
dish. Continue until the ingredients 
are used. Pour over the cakes, set in 
a row down the centre of the serving - 
dish, a chili sauce. Sprinkle the whole 
with grated Parmesan cheese, and send 
at once to the table. Probably an 
American would turn the cake in the 
same manner as a pancake, thus cook- 
ing both sides before adding the mixture 
and rolling. 

Chili Sauce 
To chilis (the number depending 
upon the taste) prepared as above, add 
a pint of cooked tomato, a large onion, 
cut in slices, and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Let simmer twenty minutes, 
then strain, and use as above. 



Query 1049. — Miss L. F., South Brooklyn, 
Ohio: "Recipes for cream puffs as bakers 
make them, and French fried potatoes." 

Cream Puffs 
Set a saucepan containing half a cup 



of butter (lard, cottolene, etc., may be 
used) and one cup of boiling water 
over the fire. When the mixture boils, 
sift in one cup of flour and a few grains 
of salt. Stir vigorously until the mixt- 
ure forms a smooth paste and cleaves 
from the side of the pan. Turn into a 
bowl, and beat in four eggs, one at a 
time. Beat in each egg thoroughly 
before another is added. If the eggs 
are of large size, three will be enough. 
Shape the paste in rounds about two 
inches in diameter on a buttered bak- 
ing-sheet. (Bakers use a pastry bag, 
with plain tube for shaping.) Brush 
over the tops with beaten egg, diluted 
with milk. Bake about twenty min- 
utes in an oven with strong heat below. 
Remove the cakes to a wire cooler as 
soon as baked (to avoid sweating). 
When cold, open at one side and fill 
with cream, sweetened, flavored, and 
beaten solid, or with English cream 
filling. 

English Cream Filling 
Scald one pint of milk in a double 
boiler. Sift together half a cup of 
flour, half a cup of sugar, and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Dilute 
these with a little of the hot milk, 
then return the whole to the fire, and 
stir and cook until the mixture thickens. 
Then cook, stirring occasionally, for 
fifteen minutes. Beat two eggs or 
four yolks of eggs. Add one-fourth 
a cup of sugar, and beat it in thoroughly, 
then stir into the hot mixture. Stir 
until the egg looks cooked, then cool 
and flavor with vanilla. 

French Fried Potatoes 
Scrub and pare the potatoes, and 
cut in eighths, lengthwise. Let stand 
in ice-cold water until well chilled. 
Then dry between towels as they are to 
be fried. Fry in a basket, few at a time. 
Avoid having the fat too hot, or the 
potatoes will be dark-colored before 
they are cooked through . When cooked , 



112 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



they should be golden brown. Drain 
at once on soft paper, then sprinkle with 
salt, and serve. 



Query 1050. — R. G., Kansas City, Mo.: 
"Recipes for Italian cream. How can fruit 
syrups be made at home? How prepare a 
mint julep?" 

Neapolitan Ice-cream 
Italian or Neapolitan cream ice is 
universally made in France and Italy. 
Cream or rich milk and yolks of eggs, 
in the proportion of from six to twelve 
of the latter to a quart of the former, 
form the foundation of this cream. 
One cup of sugar is allowed to each 
quart of cream, and another to each 
dozen of yolks. Beat the yolks until 
light-colored and thick. Add the sugar, 
and beat again. Then cook in the hot 
cream as a boiled custard. Strain, 
and, when cold, flavor and freeze. The 
ices made in this manner are usually 
flavored with coffee, chocolate, cara- 
mel, and vanilla. Bisque ice-cream is 
also usually made after this formula. 

Bisque Cream Ice 
Scald one quart of thin cream or a 
pint each of cream and rich milk. 
Beat the yolks of six eggs. Add half 
a cup of sugar, and beat again. Then 
cook in the hot cream until the mixture 
coats the spoon. Strain into a cold 
dish, and, when cold, add a table- 
spoonful of vanilla and freeze. Then 
remove the dasher, and beat in a gen- 
erous cup of fine-chopped nuts or of 
powdered-and-sifted macaroons. 

Fruit Syrups made at Home 
Fruit syrups can be made at home 
with very little trouble, and are much 
to be preferred to those purchased of a 
dealer in fancy groceries. Heat the 
fruit, and express the juice as in mak- 
ing jelly. Currants, strawberries, and 
raspberries yield their juice with press- 
ure and without heat, which takes 



from their fresh flavor. For each pint 
of juice take a pint of sugar. Boil 
three pints of sugar and a cup of water 
to a clear syrup. Skim, and add 
three pints of strained juice. Let heat 
to the boiling-point. Then store as 
canned fruit in sterilized fruit jars. 
Fruit juice canned without syrup will 
keep perfectly if the usual precautions 
in canning be taken. The juice may 
be heated in an open kettle or in the 
jars set on a rack in a kettle. 

Mint Julep (Mrs. Henderson) 
Bruise several tender sprigs of fresh 
mint in a teaspoonful of sugar, dis- 
solved in a few tablespoonfuls of water. 
Fill the glass one-third with brandy, 
claret, sherry, or any wine preferred, 
and the rest with fine-pounded ice. 
Insert some sprigs of mint with stems 
downward, so that the leaves above 
are in the shape of a bouquet. Drink 
through a straw. 



Query 105 i. — Mrs. A. J. S., Somerville, 
Mass.: "Can creme de menthe, such as is 
served in fine-crushed ice, in cordial glasses, 
after a luncheon, be prepared at home ? If so, 
kindly give directions for its preparation." 

Creme de Menthe 
Chop enough spearmint to fill a pint 
fruit jar, putting the mint in very 
loosely. Put in alcohol of the best 
grade, to cover completely the mint. 
Put on a rubber, and screw the cover 
on tight. Let it stand for three or 
four days. Then strain through a 
doubled cheese-cloth. Make a syrup 
by boiling a quart of sugar and a pint 
of water. Five or six minutes after 
boiling begins, skim and let cool. 
While still warm, but not hot, mix with 
the mint mixture an equal measure of 
the syrup. Then bottle, and set aside 
in a cool, dry place. To use, partly 
fill a tiny cordial glass with shaved ice, 
and pour over from one teaspoonful 
to one tablespoonful of the creme de 
menthe, Pass in the library or re- 



Queries and Answers 



"3 



ception-room, on doily-covered plates 
holding after-dinner coffee spoons. 



Query 1052. — Mrs. F. H. H., Sioux Falls, 
So. Dak. : "Recipe for whole-wheat bread with 
compressed yeast, giving the quantity of flour 
by measure. Also length of time to raise be- 
fore and after it is made into loaves." 

Whole-wheat Bread 
Scald two cups of milk (or one of 
milk and one of boiling water may be 
used). Add two level tablespoonfuls, 
each, of sugar and butter, a teaspoonful 
of salt, and, when cooled to a lukewarm 
temperature, a cake of compressed 
yeast, crumbled and mixed to a liquid 
in half a cup of lukewarm water. Stir 
in four cups of sifted bread flour 
(white) and about five cups of sifted 
entire- wheat flour. Turn onto a floured 
board, and knead until smooth and 
elastic, ten minutes or more. Then set 
aside in a covered dish, in a tempera- 
ture of about 68° F., until doubled in 
bulk (about three hours). Cut down, 
and turn over the dough and let stand 
until again light (from half to a full 
hour). Repeat the cutting down, if 
desired. Then shape into loaves. 
When nearly doubled in bulk (about 
an hour), bake one hour. 



Query 1053. — Mrs. A. G. H. : "Directions 
for canning spinach, string beans, young beets, 
and carrots. How long should corn be cooked 
in canning? Last year I candied cherries. 
They were much like raisins in color and text- 
ure. They were not red and plump like those 
we buy in the store." 

Canning Vegetables 
Our experience in canning vegetables 
is rather limited. To can vegetables 
successfully, one needs have access to 
a garden, and take the vegetables before 
the sugar in composition has changed 
to starch. Only tiny peas, lima beans, 
string beans, and corn "in the milk" 
can be put up without fear of failure. 
The time of cooking will vary a little 
from year to year, according to the 



season and condition of the ground; 
but these things modify the time of 
cooking less than does the manner in 
which the canning is done. In certain 
canners the cooking is done under a 
heavy pressure of steam. In some of 
the steam cookers, while the steam 
pressure makes an appreciable difference 
in the time needed for canning, longer 
cooking is demanded than in the best 
canners. In others, the pressure of the 
steam corresponds to that obtained in 
an ordinary kettle, closely covered, or 
in a wash boiler. The time given in 
the following recipes is for canning 
when an ordinary kettle or a wash 
boiler is fitted up for the purpose with 
a rack, upon which the jars may stand. 
This rack or trivet is to insure the cir- 
culation of water below the jars. A 
tin sheet filled with holes resting on 
baking-powder box covers or a rack 
made by fastening narrow strips of 
wood onto two lengthwise strips of 
wood answers all purposes. Of course, 
the sheet or rack needs be of a size to 
let down easily into the kettle or boiler. 

Canned Corn 
Pack the corn (see above) cut from 
the cobs into jars, pressing it down 
tight and filling the jars nearly to the 
top. Lay a folded cloth on the rack. 
On this set the jars. Pour into the 
kettle lukewarm water to one-third the 
height of the jars. Put on the jar 
covers. Cover the kettle, and let cook 
three hours after boiling begins. If the 
jars are not now full, use one or more 
jars to fill the others to overflow. Ad- 
just the rubbers and covers, return to 
the fire, and cook one hour and a half. 
Then adjust the covers, and let cool in 
the kettle. If Mason jars be used, 
tighten the covers again when the jars 
are cold. We would greatly esteem the 
courtesy, if those trying these recipes 
for canned vegetables would report re- 
sults, and also any variations in the 
methods given. 



II 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



String Beans 
Remove the strings, cut the beans into 
pieces lengthwise, throwing them as cut 
into a pan of cold water. When all are 
prepared, drain and put into jars. Set 
the jars into the kettle, as before. 
When thoroughly heated, fill each with 
boiling water, cover, and let cook one 
hour. Then add a teaspoonful of salt 
to each jar, also water, if needed, to 
fill to overflow. Adjust the rubbers 
and covers, and let cook twenty min- 
utes. Fasten down the covers, and let 
cool in the water. 

Beets and Carrots 
Scrub tiny young beets, and cut off 
the stems one inch from the top of the 
root. Let cook directly over the fire 
until nearly tender. Drain, cover with 
cold water, and with the hands rub 
off the skin. Put into jars, shaking 
them down well. Set onto the rack, 
and, when the jars are well heated, 
add a teaspoonful of salt to each jar, 
and fill them to overflow with boiling 
water. Adjust the rubbers and covers, 
and let cook three-fourths an hour. 
Then tighten the covers, and let cool 
in the kettle. Prepare carrots in the 
same way. 

Spinach 

Remove all coarse stems. Wash in 
five or six waters. Then press very 
tight into jars. Add half a teaspoonful 
of salt to each jar, cover, and let cook 
thirty minutes. Then use part of the 
jars to fill the others to overflow. 
Press down the spinach, but add no 
liquid other than is found in the jars. 
Make sure that the jars are filled to 
overflow. Adjust the rubbers and 
covers, return to the fire, and cook half 
an hour. Tighten the covers, and let 
cool in the kettle. 

Candied Cherries 
The process of candying fruit is a 



long one, and calls for special appara- 
tus. With much care and patience the 
results of the professional can be ap- 
proximated, but probably not wholly 
secured. We are unable to give the 
variety of cherry best adapted for the 
purpose, but there is a choice. 



Query 1054. — Mr s. J. H., Birmingham, 
Ala.: "Recipe for devil's food cake with 
spices." 

Devil's Food Cake 
Cream half a cup of butter. Gradu- 
ally beat in one cup of sugar, then 
three ounces of melted chocolate, and 
the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. 
Sift together one cup and a half of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of cloves, and 
two and one-half level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Add to the first in- 
gredients, alternately, with half a cup 
of milk. Flavor with one teaspoonful 
of vanilla, and beat in the whites of 
two eggs, beaten stiff. Bake in a loaf 
about forty minutes, in layers twenty 
minutes. 

Query 1055. — A. G., Children's Home, 
Boston: "Recipes for rye- meal muffins, plain 
rice puddings, and desserts made with blue- 
berries." 

Rye-meal Muffins 

Pass through a sieve together two 
cups of sifted pastry flour, two cups of 
rye-MEAiv (not flour), half a cup of 
sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and 
two level tablespoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Beat one or two eggs with- 
out separating white and yolk. Add 
one cup and three-fourths of milk, 
and stir into the dry mixture with one- 
fourth a cup of melted butter. Bake 
in roll-pans about twenty-five minutes. 
This recipe makes two dozen. (The 
sweetness of the rye -meal makes these 
a particularly good variety of muffin.) 

Rice Pudding with Raisins 
Put three-fourths a cup of rice over 



Queries and Answers 



"5 



the fire in plenty of cold water, and 
stir to prevent sticking, while heating 
quickly to the boiling-point. Drain, 
rinse in cold water, and drain again. 
Mix the rice with a cup and a half of 
sugar, two teaspoonfuls of salt, a 
grating of nutmeg, and a cup of raisins, 
and turn into a pudding-dish with two 
quarts of milk. Bake in a very slow 
oven nearly an hour and a half, stirring 
the mixture occasionally during the 
first half-hour. Half an hour before 
removing the pudding from the oven 
carefully lift up the brown crust at 
one side, and slowly turn in a cup or 
more of rich milk. (This is a par- 
ticularly good pudding, if baked 
very slowly. May be served hot or 
cold.) 

Blueberry Sponge 
Cook a quart of blueberries, half a 
cup of sugar, and half a cup of water, 
five or six minutes. Then strain 
through a very fine sieve. In the mean 
time remove the crust from a loaf of 
bread, and cut the crumb into half- 
inch cubes. Fill an earthen bowl 
closely with the cubes, pouring over 
them as they are fitted in place the 
hot juice. Fill the bowl evenly to the 
top with the bread and juice, using 
all the juice the bread will take up. 
Set aside in a cool place for some 
hours. Then turn from the bowl. 

Blueberry Betty 
Remove the crust from slices of stale 
bread. Put the bread spread with 
butter into a pudding-dish in layers, 
alternating with blueberries. Sprinkle 
the blueberries with sugar, a little salt, 
and, if desired, a grating of nutmeg. 
Have generous layers of blueberries. 
Squeeze over the whole the juice of a 
lemon, or add half a cup of water. 
Cover the dish, and let bake until the 
berries are tender. Then remove the 
cover to brown the top. Serve with 
cream and sugar. 



Query 1056. — Mr. F., Boston, Mass. : 
"Few menus for one whose liver is sluggish." 

Menus 

The diet should be non-stimulating; 
i.e., alcohol and condiments, especially 
curry, should be completely eliminated. 
Coffee and tea, if not given up entirely, 
should not be used freely. The quan- 
tity taken should be reduced to not 
more than one cup a day, and this 
should be very weak. Drink water 
freely half-way between meals. Opium 
in any of the forms in which it appears 
in patent medicines should be avoided. 

The quantity of fats, sugars, and 
most starchy foods must be reduced 
to the minimum. Among the articles 
especially prohibited are pickles, sauces, 
fried foods, veal, pork, in all forms, 
corned beef, salt fish, lobsters, crabs, 
oily fish, as salmon, mackerel, and 
sardines, preserves, pastry, hot breads, 
cake, rich puddings, breakfast cereals, 
and starchy vegetables, as potatoes, 
corn, peas, and beans. To avoid con- 
stipation, eat freely of green succulent 
vegetables and fresh fruit in season. 
The fruits having preference are grapes, 
oranges, peaches, baked apples, and 
prunes stewed without sugar. 

Much depends upon the manner of 
eating. Avoid eating when tired. Lie 
down and rest half an hour before 
taking food. Have cheerful company 
at meals. Masticate thoroughly, taking 
but little, if any, liquid meanwhile. 
The following menus are written on the 
supposition that milk is always well 
borne, but this is not always the case. 

Menus for Active Man with Slug- 
gish Liver 

Breakfast. 

Baked Apples. 

Soft-cooked Egg. 

Dry Toast, very lightly Buttered. 

Dinner (Middle|of the Day). 

Broiled or Baked Halibut or White Fish. 

Asparagus or Spinach. 



n6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Stale Bread. 
Rice Pudding. 

Supper. 

Stale Bread, Toasted. Milk. 

Gluten Crackers. 

Sliced Peaches, lightly Sugared. 

Tea. 

Breakfast. 

Barley Crystals, Milk. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Hamburg Steak, Broiled. 

Stale Entire-wheat Bread. 

Hot Water (Small Quantity). 

Dinner. 

[Boiled Lamb (Yearling). 

Small Baked Potato. 

Squash. 

Sea Moss Blanc-mange. 

Milk. Sugar. 

Supper. 

Broiled Tomatoes. Soft -cooked Egg. 

Stale Graham Bread. 

Tea. 

Breakfast. 

Peaches. 

Hot Boiled Rice. 

Slice of Cold Lamb 

Zwieback. 

Coffee. 

Dinner. 

White Fish Baked in Milk 

Raw or Cooked Celery. 

Small Baked Potato. 

Grapes. 

Supper. 

Egg Timbales. 

Broiled Tomato. 

Toasted Crackers or Bread. 

Lemonade (not very Sweet) . 

Breakfast. 

Baked Apples. 

Broiled Lean Mutton Chop. 

Lettuce with Lemon juice (No Oil) . 

Stale Rye Bread. 

Buttermilk. 

Dinner. 

Slice of Fowl, Baked, without Dressing. 

Mashed Potato (Small Portion). 

Spinach. 

Grape Sponge (Grape Juice, White of Egg, 

Gelatine, Sugar sparingly). 



Supper. 

Sliced Peaches. 

Plain Junket. 

Toasted Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 

Tea. 

Breakfast. 
Broiled White Fish. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Small Baked Potato. 

Grapes. Coffee. 

Dinner. 

Slice of Hot Roast Beef. 

Squash. Celery. Bit of Bread. 

Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding. 

Supper. 

Hot Boiled Rice, Milk. 

Baked Apples. 



Query 1057.— N. D. G., Chicago: "How 
many whites of eggs are to be used in the 
lady cake, a recipe for which is given in an- 
swer to Query 1040?" 

Whites of Eggs in Lady Cake 

The whites of ten eggs are called for 
in the recipe given. 



A Porch Table 
The old-fashioned colonial settle, 
which is a table, a bench, and a bureau 
combined, is a useful article on the 
summer lawn or piazza. The fact 
that it is found among the kitchen 
furnishings of the department stores, 
and is really sold there^as an ironing- 
table, does not detract from its con- 
venience and good effect in a more 
pretentious use. The drawer, or box, 
beneath the seat is a convenient re- 
ceptacle for all sorts of summer litter, 
from tennis rackets to magazines, and 
with a cushion or pillow or two it is, 
in its bench role, a useful seat. One 
seen last summer at the side of a ten- 
nis court was painted in sealing-wax 
red enamel. It was set under a large 
lawn umbrella, also of red, and the 
gay arrangement against a background 
of green shrubbery was not unattrac- 
tive. 



ROYAL 



Baking 
Powder 







Makes 
the 

Cook's 

Work 

Easy 

and 

Delicious 
Food 
Certain, 

Royal Baking Powder is favored by Cooks and 
Housekeepers because it renders the food more health- 
ful and nutritious and is withal more economical. 

FREE FROM ALUM AND ABSOLUTELY PURE 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO.. 100 WILLIAM ST., NEW YORK. 



Book Reviews 



D£EP Breathing. By S. M. A. Cicco- 
lina. Illustrated. Cloth. Price 50 
cents. New York: M. L. Holbrook 
&Co. 

This is a very useful little book, 
translated from the German. The au- 
thor's enthusiasm carries her readers 
with her. In these pages her object 
is to set forth the inestimable value of 
voluntary deep abdominal breath- 
ing in its bearing on voice culture, 
health, and life. To read, believe, 
and consequently practise the few 
simple rules and directions given here 
means more perfect and complete liv- 
ing. Fortunate are they who learn 
early to prize the worth of deep breath- 
ing for the preservation of health and 
life. Consider the relations of the at- 
mosphere to life, and the value of the 
practice of deep breathing becomes 
manifest. "Where respiration is full 
and vigorous, as in most birds, life is 
energetic. Where it is feeble, as in 
frogs, life is torpid. Man lives in pro- 
portion as he breathes, and the activ- 
ity of the child is in close relation to 
the strength of its lungs. So, too, 
is the calmness, dignity, and power of 
man in proportion to the depth and 
tranquillity of his respiration. If the 
lungs are strong and active, there is 
courage and boldness. If feeble, there 
is cowardice and debility. To be out 
of spirits is to be out of breath. To 
be animated and joyous is to be full 
of breath. When eager and full of 
enterprise, we consume large quanti- 
(Continued on page xii) 



Business Women 

A Lunch Fit for a King 
An active and successful young lady 

tells her food experience: — 

"Some three years ago I suffered 

from nervous prostration, induced by 



continuous brain strain and improper 
food, added to a great grief. 

"I was ordered to give up my work, 
as there was great danger of my mind 
failing me altogether. My stomach 
was in bad condition (nervous dys- 
pepsia, I think now) ; and, when Grape- 
nuts food was recommended to me, I 
had no faith in it. However, I tried 
it, and soon found a marked improve- 
ment in my condition as the result. 
I had been troubled with deathly faint 
spells, and had been compelled to use 
a stimulant to revive me. I found, 
however, that by eating Grape-nuts at 
such times I was relieved as satisfac- 
torily as by the use of stimulants, and 
suffered no bad effects, which was a 
great gain. As to my other troubles, — 
nervous prostration, dyspepsia, etc., — 
the Grape-nuts diet soon cured them. 

"I wish especially to call the atten- 
tion of office girls to the great benefit 
I derived from the use of Grape-nuts as 
a noon luncheon. I was thoroughly 
tired of cheap restaurants and ordinary 
lunches, and so made the experiment 
of taking a package of Grape-nuts food 
with me, and then slipping out at noon 
and getting a nickel's worth of sweet 
cream to add to it. I found that this 
simple dish, finished off with an apple, 
peach, orange, or a bunch of grapes, 
made a lunch fit for a king, and one that 
agreed with me perfectly. 

"I throve so on my Grape-nuts diet 
that I did not have to give up my 
work at all, and in the two years have 
had only four lost days charged up 
against me. 

"Let me add that your suggestions 
in the little book, 'Road to Wellville,' 
are, in my opinion, invaluable, espe- 
cially to women." Name given by 
Postum Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 

"The Road to Wellville" in each 
package. 



Ad 



vertisements 



■. ' • ! " ■"■'" ; " "• ' ■.. " 



One of the 57 

A prudent mother always 
serves her children with 
the most nourishing rood. 
Nothing is more deli- 
cious and appetizing than 



HEINZ 
BAKED BE,ANS 

Baked, not hoiled. Every Dean is hahed through and 

through to a rich brown color. Our scientific 

methods in baking bring a new value to the taste 

and food value or the bean. Our model kitchens 

and equipment insure cleanliness and perfection 

in every detail. >A^e make 3 kinds of beans. 

HEINZ BAKED BEANS WITH TOMATO SAUCE 

Finest selected Beans, Pork and Tomato Sauce delicately seasoned. In 
three sizes of tins, containing three, six and nine portions respectively. 

HEINZ PLAIN PORK AND BEANS 

The old-fashioned Boston Baked Beans without Tomato Sauce. 

HEINZ VEGETARIAN BAKED BEANS 

Prepared with Tomato Sauce but without Pork. 



Every Product that Bears Heinz Name it's Safe to Buy. 

A Booklet, good reading about good things 



for the table. Sent Free. 



H. J. HEJNZ CO., Pittsburgh, U.S.A. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ties of air; when weary, we yawn; 
when frightened, we are breathless and 
aghast. However well we find our- 
selves, if we do not breathe enough, 
we do not take on good conditions, 
but become feverish and irritable. 
Why, then, should we send invalids 
to a healthy region if they do not 
breathe air deep into their lungs?" 

Both the book and the subject are 
commendable. In comparatively small 
circles as yet this subject is begin- 
ning to receive any considerable degree 
of attention. 



Outlines of Rural Hygiknk. By 
Harvey B. Bashore. Cloth. Illus- 
trated. Price .75 net. Philadelphia: 
F. A. Davis Company. 
This is the most practicable and 
helpful handbook for rural districts 
we have chanced to see. Water sup- 
ply, waste disposal, soil drainage, and 
construction of habitations are treated 
concisely and from the latest scien- 
tific point of view. For instance, we 
had occasion recently to' know how to 
construct a cistern, and satisfactory 
information was not to be had until 
this little volume came to hand. 
Here on four pages was found exactly 
what was needed. By figures and il- 
lustrations many another matter of 
concern in districts outside the large 
cities is made just as plain as is the 
construction of a cistern. 

The book is well adapted in every 
respect, to aid in the diffusion of sani- 
tary knowledge where this knowledge 
is most needed. A single paragraph 
will suffice to substantiate the emi- 
nent practicability of the work: "The 
(Continued on page xiv) 



Mental Accuracy 

Greatly Improved by Leaving off Coffee 

The manager of an extensive cream- 
ery in Wisconsin states that, while a 
regular coffee drinker, he found it in- 



jurious to his health and a hindrance 
to the performance of his business 
duties. 

"I cannot say," he continues, "that 
I ever used coffee to excess, but I know 
that it did me harm, especially during 
the past few years. 

' ' It impaired my digestion, gave me a 
distressing sense of fulness in the region 
of the stomach, causing a most painful 
and disquieting palpitation of the heart, 
and, what is worse, it muddled my 
mental faculties so as to seriously in- 
jure my business efficiency. 

"I concluded, about eight months 
ago, that something would have to be 
done. I quit the use of the old kind of 
coffee short off, and began to drink 
Postum Food Coffee. The cook didn't 
make it right at first: she didn't boil 
it long enough; and I did not find it 
palatable, and quit using it and went 
back to the old kind of coffee, and to 
the stomach trouble again. Then my 
wife took the matter in hand, and, by 
following the directions on the box 
faithfully, she had me drinking Postum 
for several days before I knew it. 
When I happened to remark that I 
was feeling much better than I had for 
a long time, she told me that I had been 
drinking Postum, and that accounted 
for it. Now we have no other kind 
of coffee on our table. 

"My digestion has been perfectly re- 
stored, and with this improvement has 
come relief from the oppressive sense 
of fulness and palpitation of the heart 
that used to bother me so, and I note 
such a gain in mental strength and 
acuteness that I can attend to my 
office work with ease and pleasure and 
without making the mistakes that were 
so annoying to me while I was using 
the old kind of coffee. 

"Postum Food Coffee is the greatest 
table drink of the times, in my humble 
estimation." Name given by Postum 
Company, Battle Creek, Mich. 

There's a reason. 



Advertisements 



Such delicious bacon as that 
made at Canajoharie by the 
special curing of the Beech-Nut 
Packing Company has never been 
produced in any other way. Next 
to that delicious taste, which 
must be experienced to be ap- 
preciated, comes the attractive 
way in which 

Beech -Nut 
Sliced Bacon 

is put up — in uniform slices, in 
air-tight glass jars, in a vacuum, 
which requires no other preserv- 
ative. Beech-Nut Products 
need no pure food law to make 
them absolutely pure. The pro- 
cess of packing preserves with- 
out the introduction of any false 
preservative. 

An assorted dozen of Beech- 
Nut products sent to any ad- 
dress, express prepaid, for $3.00. 






S-$:*y\v>?f:~- 



. 



Wl^%^m 



Beech -Nut 
Sliced Beef 

is what you would call "dried 
beef/' except that Beech-Nut 
Beef, sliced and put in air- 
tight jars, has a peculiar fla- 
vor due to the curing, which 
flavor is never lost on account 
of the perfect preservation. 
No preservative is used to 
keep Beech -Nut Beef. It 
is packed in glass jars in a 
vacuum. Delicious dishes can 
be made from it. Send for 
the Beech-Nut book contain- 
ing a dozen recipes for appe- 
tizing dishes made from 
Beech-Nut Sliced Beef and 
Beech-Nut Sliced Bacon. 



There are 19 varieties of Tfr ^ ^ »A* JVl-H-a-rf- 
jams, marmalades, stuffed llf^t^i II ~ W U I 
dates, jellies and other HVVAJl AU*I 
good things put up under 
the general name 



Each jar has the delicious flavor of the fruit, 
ordinarily found only in home preserves. 
These conserves are absolutely pure, con- 



r 1^ A'VKl/IMT^ C taining nothing but sugar and fruit,and have 
f \JLM ljjl^.1. YfS*3 delighted everyone who has tasted them 



Beech-Nut Packing Company, Canajoharie, N. Y. 

■■■■IH^HHBi 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



waste of an ideal country house should 
be disposed of somewhat as follows: 
The material from the dry closet — which 
is the only method of excreta disposal 
recommended, where there is no water 
service — is to be used as fertilizer by 
burying a few inches in cultivated soil, 
either on the garden-bed or on a 
neighboring farm. The waste water 
from the kitchen sink and the bath 
runs into lines of surface or subsoil 
drains. The garbage — that is, the pu- 
trescible part which comes from the 
kitchen — is burned in the range or 
buried in a pit in the garden-bed. 
The combustible part — rags and paper 
— is burned. The non-combustible 
part — ashes, tin cans, oyster shells, 
etc. — is taken away and used for filling. 
In houses where there is water ser- 
vice and water-closets, excreta and 
slop waters are disposed together in 
the form of sewage, and for this the 
only means of disposal is irrigation. 
The cesspool should not be thought of." 



Origin of the Steel Pen 

"We owe the steel pen," said an in- 
ventor, "to a man named Gillott, — Jo- 
seph Gillott, — an Englishman. 

"Gillott was a jeweller. He lived in 
Birmingham. One day, accidentally 
splitting the end of one of his fine steel 
jewel-making tools, he threw it peev- 
ishly on the floor. 

"An hour later it was necessary for 
him to write a letter. Where, though, 
was his quill pen? He searched high 
and low, but couldn't find it. Looking 
finally on the floor, he discovered not 
the pen, but the broken steel tool. 

"I wonder if I couldn't make shift 
to write with this?" he said. 

"And he tried to write with the split 
steel, and, of course, he succeeded per- 
fectly. 

"To this episode we owe the steel 
pen, which has superseded the quill all 
over the world." — Louisville Courier 
Journal. 



The Spilled-salt Superstition 
The original superstition of salt 
dates from the overturned salt-cellar 
which is found in the painting called 
"La Sainte-Sene." In front of the 
figure of Judas Iscariot, who wears 
the leather bag in which he carries 
the thirty pieces of silver received for 
betraying Christ, is the overturned 
salt-cellar. But why did the artist, 
Da Vinci, put the spilled salt before 
Judas? Because the ancients always 
attached to salt an idea of ruin and 
desolation. When they burned down 
a town, they sprinkled salt over it 
to show that it was never to be rebuilt. 
Da Vinci in his picture wished to dem- 
onstrate that the ill-gotten gains never 
could be profitable. 

Tea leaf that is closely twisted gener- 
ally gives a second cup that is superior 
to the first, since this does not infuse so 
quickly as the flat, open leaf. Where 
hard water is to be used in tea-making, 
the closely twisted leaf tea should be 
purchased ; where the water is soft, the 
more open leaf can be used to advan- 
tage. A leaf with a brown shade gives 
the best liquoring tea: a black, pretty 
leaf gives, generally, a poor liquor. 



The average girl finds it much easier 
to get married than to keep house. 



To destroy disease germs and foul gases, the waste-pipes, 
sinks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot should 
be regularly purified with 




Chlorides 

The Odowless 



Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
Address HENRY B. PLATT, 43 Cliff Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



jMiitWftMW 



CHILDREN]! 



LTEETHINc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." J 

nfwtmwwwwmfttfiil 



Special to 

New housekeepers 





New Silverware, a token 
of esteem to new house- 
keepers, should be a life- 
long delight; begin right 
and the problem is easy. 



gUECTRQ 

-^ Silver Polish m 

Silicon 

restores the beautiful 
brilliancy without mar 
or mark and keeps new 
silver always new — in 
brilliancy. 

That you may begin right, we make a 
special offer to new housekeepers that 
will interest you. For particulars sim- 
ply send your address by postal to 

" Silicon," 30 Cliff Street, New York. , 



regms^mgamsmnsgmBsam 




is the word HUB 

/This is the n&me thai means p&st suc- 
cess, present security, future zvssur- 
|ance!HUBT^\n^s hwe move, import 
Jaut imp rovements thaj? any other; 
m^ i^ ^ i^iMM rrr ^'^^ 00 ^ better; 
kst" " 
longer 

and conifeuineleSfKJel. Note tiu 
new'BroilerHoodusedin connection wit 
the HUB, trench Sectional Top, four*! only' 
on HUB f^M?ges!There is evidence of HUrf 

Superiority. at all first class dealers 

SMIlfl^ANTHONYCO. 

48-54 Union Slreet,Boston. 

Manufacture rs of Cooking and Heating Apparatus gfevery^tyte^wcFdescriplion 




t^LUAM mi m xu m wi muii w m± mwt m uju. ; S B ,->.. n ■ g g g a ffl 



6 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Insects and Infection 



TO prevent infections reaching 
the human body through the 
medium of insects means that 
they shall be exterminated or else shut 
away from -the body itself, also from 
food and water. Scientific sanitary in- 
vestigation has proved that, to get rid 
of flies and mosquitoes, the breeding- 
places of these insects must be des- 
troyed. Flies breed in stable manure 
piles, barnyards, and wherever there are 
masses of filth. Mosquitoes breed in 
marshes and swamps, old rain barrels, 
eave-troughs, and wherever there is 
stagnant water impregnated with de- 
caying organic matter. 

The sanitary lesson for the home- 
maker to learn is to avoid the marshes 
and drain them before building, and 
keep free from all pools of stagnant 
water, great or small, on the premises, 
and keep the stables and barnyards 
free from fermenting masses of decay- 
ing organic matter. 

To keep these insect pests out of 
the house, it should, if possible, be so 
planned that the prevailing winds 
will not blow from the stables, barn- 
yard, or any marshes in the vicinity 
toward it, and then in summer use 
wire screens on every door and window, 
as well as enclose the porches around 
the house. Italian physicians, ex- 
perimenting in the Pontine marshes 



to discover the cause of Roman fever, 
found the peasants, living side by side 
in ordinary canvas and in tight screen - 
protected tents, contracted this disease 
in the unprotected tents where mosqui- 
toes had free access, and escaped in- 
fection in the screen-protected, where 
they were excluded. A nicely screened, 
shaded, cool back porch is a sanitary 
blessing to the over-tired farmer's 
wife. There she can prepare a great 
part of her food and have a comforta- 
ble couch to rest on, free from insect 
and annoyance. The children can play 
there, and thus keep out of the kitchen 
heat and at the same time avoid nox- 
ious insect infection. The screens are 
within reach of every American house- 
holder. — Dr. Kate Lindsay. 



Housekeeping a Profession 

Housekeeping ranks among the pro- 
fessions as truly as any other occupa- 
tion. It is more than a trade, since 
one who works at a trade performs 
each day the task assigned, the work 
being planned and directed by an- 
other. Thus little of the worker's en- 
ergy is expended in deciding his ac- 
tivities. It is the director who must 
possess and exercise the power to 
guide, his work being to initiate, plan, 
and direct. This requires, larger ca- 



CORSET 
CLASP 




EVERY PAIR 
WARRANTED 



CLASP TOP STYLE 

For attaching to lower edge 

of Corset. 
Quickly adjusted or removed. 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

OF YOUR DEALER 

Or sample pair on receipt of price. 

Mercerized, 25 cents. Silk, SO cents. 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 



THE NAME 
is stamped ou 
every loop 



GEORGE FROST COMPANY, Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



Lea & Perrins' 
Sauce 



THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 



JPfflT 




The Peerless Seasoning 

Rare piquancy is given to Chafing Dish 
cooking by using 



LEA & PERRINS' SAUCE 

The Original and Genuine Worcestershire 

has never been successfully imitated. Lea 
& Perrins' Sauce was in universal use a 
generation before any other so-called 
Worcestershire was ever heard cf. There 
is no other like it. It is First and Best. 



CAUTION.— The popularity of Lea & Perrins* Sauce has induced many manufac- 
turers to attempt to market worthless imitations. 

John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 



SYLMAR OLIVE OIL 



DIRECT FROM 
THE RANCH IN 



Sylmar Olive Oil was awarded the 
Grand Prize (highest award) at the 
St.Louis World' s Fair in competition 
with all other olive oils. It is the 
natural oil of olives, to which noth- 
ing has been added, nor anything 
taken away. Guaranteed pure. It 
will keep longer than any other oil 
without turning rancid. "We own 
the ranch, the trees, and the mill. 
We produce this oil under the most 
favorable conditions from the finest 
ripe olives grown. 

Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the 
rich, fruity flavor of ripe California 
olives, and is most palatable. Syl- 
mar Olive Oil is absolutely the finest 
article of its kind that can be pro- 
duced, and can be purchased with 
the confidence that every bottle will 
stand the most rigid chemical anal- 
ysis and be proven absolutely free 
from adulterants. 



CALIFORNIA 




Natural Oil of Olives Perfected from 

" Blossom to Bottle " on the 
Largest Olive Ranch in the World. 



Send postoffice or express money order 
for $3.00 for three quart-size bottles, and 
we will deliver them to you express pre- 
paid. Give your grocer's or druggist's 
name, and we will offer him the agency. 
We publish a booklet containing 
physicians' directions for medicinal 
uses of olive oil, cooking receipts, 
government recommendations, de- 
scriptions of our process, and direc- 
tions for detecting adulterants in 
olive oil. We will send this booklet 
and a sample bottle of the oil to 
any address for 10c. postage. 

Two tablespoonf uls of Sylmar 01- 
iveOilcontribute more nourishment 
than a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing 
the digestive organs. The body is a 
machine which must be lubricated 
in order to run smoothly and be 
vigorous. Eat natural olive oil 
freely and pay the doctor less. 



Los Angeles Olive Growers' Ass'n, 314 Bradbury Bldg., Los Angeles, Gal. 



When you write advertisers, please mention -The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



\- 



. 



WHITE HOUSE 

COFFEE 



SninEHoi! 



OFFEE 



comes very, very close to the affections of 
the Ladies of the land. It's a substantial 
support and solace for the strenuous days 
of household drudgery ; a panacea for the 
fatigues of society ; a dainty delight in the 
privacy of the boudoir. It's wholesome 
and healthful and vivifying. WHITE 
HOUSE COFFEE IS TRULY THE 
VERY FINEST COFFEE THE 
WORLD PROVIDES. 

DWINELL-WRIGHT CO. 
Principal Coffee Roasters 
Boston and Chicago 



Exquisite 
Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

made with 

Junket 
Tablets 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for 10 cents and give yon the charming 
Brochure " Junket Dainties " free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Palls, N.Y. 



pacity and ability than is required of 
the one who merely practises a trade. 

It is the work of the housewife to 
initiate, plan, * and direct the business 
of the house. The woman who con- 
siders this work as the opportunity to 
assist in sharing the responsibilities of 
the wage-earner and in developing the 
powers of those making up the family 
has grasped the truth concerning the 
possibilities of her work. 

There should be no more question 
as to the need of education and training 
for the woman who selects the food, 
clothing, and works of art which min- 
ister to the highest welfare of a family, 
than there is for the need of study on 
the part of the farmer, the manufact- 
urer, or the artist who produces them. 

Everywhere training is showing its 
benefits in the greater efficiency and 
skill of those who take advantage of it. 
Women will never be able to spend 
money so as to bring adequate results 
until they have in some way acquired 
a broad training in the estimation of 
values. The word of the salesman is 
a poor guide, yet one who has had no 
training to aid her is unable to select 
for herself any more satisfactorily. 
Houses which are turned over to "ex- 
perts" are usually striking witnesses of 
abundant expenditure, but pitiably fail 
to convey to eye or heart the refreshing 
individuality or the satisfaction to be 
realized in the cultivated woman's 
home. — Bertha M. Terrill. 



"Are you hungry?" "Yes, Siam." 
"Well, come along. I'll Fiji."— Na- 
tional Geographical Magazine. 



"Well, Freddie," said grandma, who 
had just arrived for a month's visit, 
"I suppose your father was greatly 
surprised to get my telegram saying 
I was coming?" 

"Yes; but his surprise was not as 
great as mother's." 

"At the glad news, I suppose?" 

"No, grandma, but at papa's lan- 
guage." — New England Grocer. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Bqsiqn Cqqkjng-School Magazine. 

?cviii 



Advertisements 




EVERY housewife knows it to be her 
duty to serve to her family foods which 
not only tempt the palate, but contain 
the maximum of healthful nutrition ; but such 
foods are hard to find. C, In your home, as it 
is in hundreds of thousands of others, 




Shredded 

Whole Wheat Biscuit 

should be the prime attraction on the breakfast table — and at other 
meals. If you use it regularly, you will find that the calls to meals are 
answered with more promptness and a keener zest. You will find that 
nearly everybody likes Shredded Wheat Biscuit, and that it is the most 
healthful, strength-giving food you can serve. This is because it is made 
from the whole wheat berry, in which Nature has provided, in concen- 
trated form, everything essential to sustain human life, — everything nec- 
essary for building strong bones and teeth, as well as muscle, tissue, and 
brain. Always serve as directed, with milk, cream, seasonable fruits, 
and vegetables. CTrisouit, the whole wheat cracker, takes the 
place of bread. It is best for toast and splen- 
did with butter, cheese, or preserves. C, Write 
us for "The Vital Question Cook Book." 



THE NATURAL FOOD 
COMPANY 

Niagara Falls, New YorR 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



We Drink 

OLD CRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

Because it "tastes good 

and it 

Makes us Strong. 

Why d o n't yo u try 1 1 ? 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. Send for book of 43 prize receipts. 

WM. UNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



Living on $1.27 a Week 

Hugh Sutherland and A. C. Payne, 
two lads who had to "work their way" 
through Wabash College at Crawfords- 
ville, Ind., solved the question of a 
1 ' simple life. ' ' The necessity for adopt- 
ing a cheap but nutritious diet led 
them into by-paths of dietetic knowl- 
edge of which they had not dreamed. 
They discarded meat entirely, using 
pecan nuts, which they purchased in 
the form of butter at 35 cents a pound. 
They also avoided white-flour prod- 
ucts, eating largely of whole-wheat 
foods, rolled oats, milk, oysters, veg- 
etables, eggs, and fruits. They gave 
their expenditures for the week be- 
ginning Wednesday, October 14, as 
follows : — 

Wednesday. Shredded wheat, 11 
cents; milk, 15 cents. 

Thursday. Bread, 25 cents; butter, 
25 cents. 

Friday. Bananas, 5 cents. 

Saturday. Shredded wheat, 1 1 cents ; 
blackberries, 15 cents. 

Sunday. Milk, 10 cents; oysters, 10 
cents. 

Monday. Fish, 10 cents. 

Tuesday. Shredded wheat, 11 cents. 

Total. For the week, $1.48, — actual 
expense for food. 

The average weekly expenditure for 
food for the entire college year was 
$1.27. And these young men not only 
made a high average in their studies, 
but took an active part in outdoor 
athletics, one of them being left guard 
on the 'varsity football team. Their 
daily programme also called for phys- 
ical exercise morning and evening, 
and a cold bath in the morning. Under 
such a regime their health was perfect. 



A mint cherry, rich green in color 
and piquant to the taste, is added to 
vanilla ice-cream, greatly improving 
that simple ice. Mint cherries are 
becoming even more popular than 
maraschino fruit. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XX 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Jell ° ICE (REAM Powder 



MADE 
THIS 



IN TEN 
MINUTES 




DO YOU LIKE ICE CREAM? 

You can make and freeze it yourself in 10 minutes 



with JELL-0 ICE CREAM Powder. Everything 
but the ice in the package. No heating, !io fussing, 
no trouble. Simply stir the contents of one package 
into a quart of milk and freeze. That's all. This 
makes Y quarts of the best Ice Cream in the world. 
Costs about lc. per plate. Approved by pure Food 
Commissioners. Highest Award at St. Louis Exposi- 
tion. If your grocer can't supply you, send us his 
name and 25c. for two packages, enough for a gallon. 
Four kinds: Vanilla. Chocolate, Strawberry, 
and Unfavored. 
Send for new illustrated recipe book just issued, Free 
THE GENESEE PURE FOOD CO., Le Roy, N.Y. 



FLEISCHMANN'S 

COMPRESSED YEAST 
HAS NO EQUAL 



Strawberry Plants 

During July and August the seedsmen 
offer, at rather high prices, pot-grown 
strawberry plants, which with good 
care will yield fruit the following season. 
If one has available a few small pots, 
it will be worth while to try growing 
some of these plants in the strawberry 
bed. Insert the pot into the soil di- 
rectly under a promising new plant 
which is just ready to root, and leave 
it there until a good root development 
has taken place. It will probably be 
worth while to pinch off any runners 
which should start from the young 
plant, in order that it may develop all 
the strength possible for itself. It is a 
simple matter to transplant such straw- 
berries at any time after they are well 
rooted, by taking it out of the pot and 
firming it in the soil in its new location. 



How Sylmar Olive Oil is Made 

The olives of which oil is to be made 
are allowed to remain upon the tree 
until nearly ripe, as the percentage of 
oil increases very rapidly during the 
last few weeks. The olives are picked 
and placed in boxes, which are immedi- 
ately carted to the mill located at one 
side of the orchard. 

The olives at Sylmar ranch are per- 
fectly clean, and shine as though they 
had been polished. 

All of the operations in the Sylmar 
factory are carried on with the utmost 
regard to cleanliness, and during the 
harvest season hundreds of people 
visit the factory and watch the work. 

Two hundred hands are necessary 
to pick the crop and the work con- 
sumes several weeks. While this is 
in progress, the scene at Sylmar re- 
sembles in some features an Eastern 
hop-picking. A half-mile of tents shel- 
ter the pickers at night. 

The grinding machine is a special 
machine that crushes the olives into 
pulp. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 




This is little Elizabeth Brock of Macon, Mo. raised on Mellin's Food from 
birth and noted everywhere for her sunny disposition and perfect health. 

Mellin's Food will make milk agree with your baby, and he will keep 
perfectly well all Summer long. 

You can even travel with your baby, if you want to, and change the 
milk supply without risk, if you use Mellin's Food to prepare the milk. 

SEND TO-DAY FOR A FREE SAMPLE OF MELLIN'S FOOD AND TRY IT. 

MELLIN'S FOOD COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking School Magazine. 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Quilted 
Table Padding' 

is much better than the antiquated 
woven stuff. 

There are several reasons why. 

It can be washed, others cannot. 
It does not cover diners' clothing with 
lint or fuzz. 

It does not stick to the table when 

hot plates are laid on it. 
It wears twice as long as any other. 

These are the "whys" that have 
made it almost universal. 



ALL DRY GOODS DEALERS SELL IT. 



EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO., 
15 Laig'Ht Street, New York. 




SOMETHING ABOUT 

SEWING MACHINES 

To interest every woman who can use one 

OUR SELLINO PLAN 

TO ATTRACT your attention now, at the opening of the 
enterprise we propose to offer 150 machines, such <C27 00 

as sell generally from $47.00 to $65.00 each, at «Pw««VU 
with choice of other styles at other prices. 

Not only will we make this signally low figure, but we will 
make unusually favorable terms. For instance, when the ma- 
chine is bought, as low as $2.00 may be paid, and the ma- 
chine delivered as promptly as if the entire amount was 
paid cash. Then $1.00 each week will be due until the balance is 
paid. Write for further particulars and samples of work. 

The SHEPARD-NORWELL COflPANY, BOSTON 



The crushed olives go directly to the 
hydraulic presses. The oil and the 
water of the olives flow out of the press 
together, but the oil quickly rises and 
is transferred to settling tanks. 

All that is left to do is to extract 
every atom of foreign matter from the 
oil. This is done by filtering. During 
this work the oil is guarded carefully 
against contamination, either from the 
vessels with which it comes in contact 
or from the atmosphere. 

After the filtering and ageing comes 
the bottling. This is done in the same 
conscientious manner at our own fac- 
tory. We are thus able to watch every 
step of the process, and are therefore 
assured that our oil reaches you in its 
native purity. 

Gone Below 
Bishop Peck of the Methodist Church 
was a large man, weighing over three 
hundred and fifty pounds. While on 
a tour, and stopping at the residence 
of a presiding elder, the bishop turned 
over in his bed, and the entire furni- 
ture collapsed, dropping him to the 
floor with a tremendous thud. The 
presiding elder rushed upstairs, call- 
ing, "What is the matter, bishop?" 
Is there anything I can do for you?" 
"Nothing is the matter," answered 
the bishop; "but, if I don't answer the 
call for breakfast, tell your wife to 
look for me in the cellar." 



Archie was on his first sea voyage. 
Pale, limp, and ready to die, he lay 
groaning in his bunk. "Charlie," he 
said feebly, "a fellow ought to be doosid 
thankful he isn't a camel." "Why?" 
asked Charlie. "Because a camel has 
got seven stomachs, don't y' know?" 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Conpany, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 



A good salad is the most gracious part of a good dinner, 
but a good salad is improved by 

Browrisville 
Wat er Or a ckers 

" The Cracker that has Brownsville on it." 

Have them in the house. They are the most dainty, the most aristo- 
cratic and the most serviceable crackers you can get. They are good 
to look at and good to eat. 

The famous old recipe by which Brownsville Water Crackers are 
made, has been kept in one family for fifty-five years, and they are mak- 
ing these crackers to-day. v_ 

See if your grocer will not serve you regularly. 

CHATLAND & LENHART 
Brownsville, Pa. 

S. S. Pierce Co., Boston. 

Park & Tilford, New York. 

Acker, Merrall & Condit Co., New York. 

The Joseph R. Peehles' Sons Co., Cincinnati. 

Heo. K. Stevenson & Co., Pittsburg, Pa. 

Finley Acker Co., Philadelphia. 

C Jevne & Co., Chicago. 



If you cannot buy these crackers of ary grocer that you 
can reach easily, we will send ten pounds for fi.50 express 
prepaid, or two pounds for 50 cents express prepaid. 



sz&&23a§&&p*4^ 




SfiS*. 




I 








K^3|aros(9 


»05mRMpS 


> 






K 



i 



In every woman's head continually is the source 
of her domestic joys and trials — the kitchen range. 
The housekeeper who daily uses, sees and com- 
prehends a Magee Range knows that the best results, 
with the least trouble and at the smallest expense, are always the 
reward of her labors. 

Illustrated Booklet, " The Magee Recitation," sent FREE. 

AAGEE FURNACE COMPANY, Nos. 32-38 Union St., BOSTON, MASS. 

Makers of the celebrated " Magee " Furnaces, Ranges and Stoves, 
Steam and Hot Water Heaters. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



The Highly Concen* 
trated Disinfecting 
Spring Cleaner 




has come to be a necessity at this time of the year. 
L>estroys all disease germs, corrects all unsanitary 
conditions, makes wholesome all unwholesome 
places, purifies the air of noxious odors. 

THOUSANDS OF HOMES ARE CLEANED 
WITH IT EVERY SPRING. 

Safeguard your home by using it liberally the next 
few months. At all dealers, 10c, 25c, 50c, $1 00. 

Look for above trade-mark on all packager. 
10c. and 25c. packages by mail of 

SULPHO-NAPTHOL COMPANY, 
9 HAYMARKET SQUARE, BOSTON. 



SOLD IN NEW YORK CITY BY 

Acker, Merrall & Condit, Park & Tilford, 
Siegel-Cooper's, Macy's, Wanamaker's. 

PHILADELPHIA 

George B. Evans Drug Stores. 

WASHINGTON 

Alex Daggett, Vermont Avenue and 8th Street 

SAN FRANCISCO 

Waterhouse & Price Co. 



A Marvelous Bargain Offer 

of articles needed in every home. " No-burn " wire Kettle Bot- 
tom, prevents potatoes, meat, vegetables, from burning, 24c. 
" Helping Hand," just the thing to lift corn, potatoes, etc., out of 
boiling water, can't burn fingers, 19c. Fruit Funnel, indis- 
pensable at canning time, 13c. Measuring Cup, standard 
measure, marked to 1-3, 1-2, 1-4 cup, etc., 12c. Sure Death Fly 
Killer, kills bugs, roaches, insects, etc., 12c. Acme Can't Slip 
Spoon, just the thing preserving time, 19c. Perfect Pie Lifter, 
19c. Miller Fruit Jar Holder, lifts hot fruit jars without danger 
of burning hands, 19c. Handy Knob for lids of teapots, drawers, 
teakettles, etc., 6c. Any article mentioned sent postpaid upon 
receipt of price, or entire outfit (total value, $1.43) sent postpaid 
for $ 1 .OO. Our big bargain catalogue FREE. This offer 
for a limited time onlv. Send now. 
BRYN ATHYN HAIL ORDER HOUSE, Bryn Athyn, Pa. 




Cake Free 

Rosettes 

(Trade-mark) 

Rosette Irons, with 
full directions, 50c. ; post- 
age, 20c. 
These cakes and irons are displayed in all leading 
house-furnishing, department, and hardware stores. 
A sample cake will be sent free with every order. 

Lady agents wanted. 

ADDRESS 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 

So. riinneapolis, flinn. 



Chayote 

The United States custom authori- 
ties recently forwarded to the culinary 
department of the Bellevue-Stratford, 
Philadelphia, for test and inspection, a 
vegetable known as "chayote," which 
is new to this country, but which grows 
wild in Porto Rico. 

The root (the edible part) of chayote 
has the shape and size of a red beet, 
and is as delicate in flavor as the finest 
Tel tower Ruebchen. When prepared a, 
la vinaigrette, it makes a splendid salad, 
and in this form has since its introduc- 
tion won great favor among the patrons 
of Philadelphia's big hotel. 



Let us have faith that makes might, 
and in that faith let us to the end dare 
to do our duty as we understand it. — 

Abraham Lincoln. 



Proper Dilution 
To avoid waste and insure best re- 
sults, the following dilutions of "Piatt's 
Chlorides" may be relied upon: — 

For disinfecting closets, etc., dilute with 4 parts water. 

For sprinkling floors, etc., " " 10 " 

For moistening clothes, etc., " " 10 " " 

"Piatt's Chlorides" is an odorless, 
colorless solution of the metallic chlo- 
rides that have proven most reliable and 
safe for sick-room and household use. 
It is put up in quart bottles covered 
with a distinctive yellow wrapper, bear- 
ing explicit directions for its use. 

It is manufactured by Henry B. 
Piatt at New York and Montreal. 



These trade-mark crisscross lines on every package 



GLUTE 

SPECIAL 

K.C.WHOL 
Unlike all ot 

For b 
Farwcll & Rhincs, 




For 
DYSPEPSIA. 

FLOUR. 
AT FLOUR. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 

own.N.Y..u.s.A. 



Women's Educational and Industrial Union 

264 BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON 

BOARD and ROOM REGISTRY 

Directs applicants to reliable houses in Boston 
and at the seashore and country. Apply at 

THE BUSINESS AGENCY 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



vwszg&MSA 



I A H m , ~r\ - < l * '• 3 f ; & 

JBL JA. -BL JLuI J,Yi,V.;W ''.:;?•:> SteMS:'-* ««A •-•Vss? .& *4. 

cookMg school 
magazine 

OF CULINARY tfCIEKCE &> 
OMEJ"TIC ECONOMICS 



Vol. X. 



OCTOBER, 1905 



No. 3 







1 }i'/f ^i^'' 

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^i^tefip^B^^wS i^^^^i^i 




£-■' • 




tell. 





THE BOSTON COOKING 5CH00L 
MAGAZINE 

372 BOYLSTON 57. BOSTON MA5.5. 



$1.00 a year 

yright, igos, by the Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



IO cents a copy 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



RUMFORD 

G POWDER 






NE POUND 



RUMFORD 






^ to bakin* quality m^be*^ /fe. 




The Wholesome Baking Powder 

Is not only endorsed by the most eminent physicians for its 
Wholesomeness and Purity, but receives the highest commendation 
of our best housekepeers for the light, delicate food it produces, 
for its superior strength and keeping quality. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Menus for Occasions in October 

% Dinner britfj friendliness is toe oest of all frienolo. meetings,— a pompous entertainment, torjere no 
lobe is, trie least zatisiactoxji.— TAac&eray. 

Dinner 

Lettuce Leaves, Genoese Fashion. 
Consomme with Flageolet and Fillets of Chestnuts. 

Olives. 

Fried Smelts, Log Cabin Fashion, Sauce Tart are. 

Baked and Glazed Sweetbreads, Jardiniere, Bernaise Sauce. 

Braised Partridges, Madeira Sauce. 

Buttered Brussels Sprouts. 

Tomatoes, Poinsetta Style. 

Peach Parfait. Almond Wafers or Macaroons. 

Tiny Cheese Souffle. ■ Celery. Pulled Bread. Black Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Melons. Cream-of-Caullflower Soup. 

Oysters in Brown Sauce in Swedish Timbale Cases. 

Sweetbreads, Doria Style. Fried Lamb Chops, Breaded. Mint Jelly. 

French Fried Potatoes. Pineapple-and-Celery Salad. 

Golden Parfait. Nut Meringues. Coffee. 

Wedding Reception 
i. 

Medallions of Tongue and Chicken Breast. 

Aspic Jelly. Celery Salad. 

Salad Rolls. Tiny Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Olives. Gherkins. 

Assorted Cakes. Grape Parfait. Ginger Ice-cream. 

Fruit Punch. Hot Coffee. 

II. 

Cold Roast Chicken, Sliced Thin. Oyster-and-Celery Salad. 

Nut Sandwiches. Yeast Rolls. 

Peach Bombe Glace. Angel Cake. Fruit Punch. 

III. 

Creamed Fish in Paper Cases. Chicken Salad. 

Tiny Yeast Biscuit. Sandwiches. Olives. Gherkins. 

Bride's Cake. Wafers. Peach Ice-cream. Fruit Punch. 



Halloween Supper 



i. 

Frankfurters. Potato Salad. Deviled Ham Sandwiches. 

Rye Bread with Anise Seed. Smearkase. 

Baked Apples. Doughnuts. Cider. 

II. 

Fried Oysters. Liverwurst. 

Nut-and-Cabbage Salad in Cabbage Shell. 

Brown Bread, Cheese-and-Olive Sandwiches. 

Small Savarins, with Whipped Cream. 

Cider. Hot Coffee. 

III. 

Deviled Ham Sandwiches. 

Hot Coffee. 

Popcorn. Apples. Nuts. Cider. 




> 
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'5 

5 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



OCTOBER 



No. 3. 



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A Cozy Window Seat in the Dining-room 



Welfare Work for 
National Cash R 

WELFARE work may be de- 
fined as the co-operation 
of employer and employees 
for mutual benefit ; and in this work the 
National Cash Register Company of 
Dayton, Ohio, ranks among the pio- 
neers. It began such work eleven years 
ago. 

Welfare work for employees, such as 
clean, bright, well-ventilated build- 
ings and pleasant surroundings, has 
drawn visitors from every quarter of 



Employees at the 
egister Company 

the world. More than 40,000 people 
visit the factory each year. 

The National Cash Register Com- 
pany, in its efforts to make work safe, 
pleasant, and wholesome, has never 
claimed philanthropic motives. It has 
always maintained that welfare work 
was instituted, and has been contin- 
ued, not only because it was right, but 
because it paid. 

Welfare work is first evident in the 
construction of model factory build- 



120 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




One of the Rest-rooms for Women Employees at National Cash Register Factory 



ings. In summer open spaces and huge 
windows admit pure air and sunshine. 
In winter a system of ventilation changes 
the air in the work-rooms every fif- 
teen minutes, and keeps the tempera- 
ture uniform. A high standard of 
cleanliness is maintained by a force 
of seventy-seven janitors. 

Bath-rooms, fitted with tubs and 
shower appliances, are free to all em- 
ployees, the company supplying soap 
and towels. Once a week in winter 
and twice in summer the employees 
are allowed to take a bath on the com- 
pany's time. High-back chairs with 
foot-rests, clean aprons, and sleeves 
to protect their dresses, are supplied 
by the company to all women employ- 
ees. 

Rest-rooms are maintained near all 
the departments in which women work. 
A physician is within call, and two 
trained nurses are always on duty at 



the factory, to care for those who be- 
come fatigued or ill. 

Every person entering the employ 
of the company must undergo physi- 
cal examination. After employees are 
accepted, every means is taken to keep 
them healthy. 

Lunch is served to the six hundred 
women employees at the nominal cost 
of 25 cents per week. 4 Following is 
a copy of a menu for one week: — 

Monday. 

Bean Soup. 

Potatoes au Brian. 

Stewed Corn. Bread and Butter. 

Coffee, Milk, or Postum Cereal. 

Tuesday. 
Boiled Beef with Horseradish Sauce. 
Boiled Potatoes. Spring Onions. 

Bread and Butter. Cocoa or Coffee. 

Wednesday. 

Vegetable Soup. 

Queen Olives. Meat Dressing. 

Boiled Potatoes, Bread and Butter. 

Coffee, Milk, or Postum Cereal. 



Welfare Work 



121 




Back-yards on K Street, after Planting 



Thursday. 

Roast Veal with Dressing. 

Mashed Potatoes. Rhubarb Shortcake. 

Bread and Butter. 

Coffee, Milk, or Postum Cereal. 

Friday. 

Cream of Rice. 

Spaghetti with Cheese. Stewed Potatoes. 

Grape-nuts. Bananas. Bread and Butter. 

Coffee, Milk, or Postum Cereal. 

The idea of establishing a dining- 
room occurred to President Patterson 
on a trip of inspection through the 
factory, when he observed a woman 
heating coffee for her lunch in a can 
on one of the steam radiators. Begin- 
ning with two gas stoves, the idea has 
grown until it has taken perfect form 
in the commodious Welfare Hall, where 
lunch is served not only to the six 
hundred women employees, but also 
to the men of the factory. 

In May, 1905, an order was issued 
by the company for the construction 



of Welfare Hall, which by the origi- 
inal plan was to have been 268 feet in 
length, the work to be done entirely 
by workmen then in the employ of 
the company, and to be completed in 
five weeks. 

After the building was well under 
way, it was decided to increase the 
length to 368 feet, without, however, 
extending the time allowed for its con- 
struction. So systematically was the 
work done that in five weeks from the 
day on which the' order for construction 
was issued, the hall was ready for oc- 
cupancy, and the following menu was 
served to the employees: — 

Menu 

Vegetable Soup with Rice. 

Radishes. 

Fried Spring Chicken with Cream Sauce. 

New String Beans. Mashed Potatoes. 

Neapolitan Ice-cream. 

Assorted Cakes. 

Malted Rolls. Coffee with Cream. 



122 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A Cooking Class at National Cash Register 



The noon recess of one hour and 
twenty minutes is a time of special 
interest to the visitor. Groups of young 
women are gathered about the piano 
or perhaps engaged in dancing ; while in 
parts of the spacious dining-room or 
rest-rooms may be seen others chatting 
over their embroidery or enjoying a 
stroll. One more diligent than the others 
may perhaps be found at the sewing- 
machine provided for their use; while 
the library, where files of newspapers, 
magazines, and books are always avail- 
able, attracts many. 

Cooking Classes 
Classes in cooking, marketing, and 
household economics are a feature of 
the welfare work during the winter, 
two hundred and ninety young women 
being enrolled in two classes. A pro- 
ficient teacher of domestic science is en- 
gaged to demonstrate the best methods 
of preparing nourishing and inexpen- 
sive meals. At the close of each course 
members of the class contribute to the 



annual cooking class display or con- 
test, each bringing articles of food 
prepared by herself, for wmich prizes 
are offered. Following is a list of the 
prizes awarded at the annual contest 
of April, 1905 : — 

First Prize. Chafing-dish Outfit. 

Second Prize. Hand-painted Bak- 
ing-dish. 

Third Prize. China Fish Set' (platter 
and six plates). 

Fourth Prize. Carving Set. 

Fifth Prize. Covered Roasting-pan. 

Dancing Classes 
Dancing classes are held two even- 
ings a week during the winter. In 
summer President Patterson invites 
the members of the different depart- 
ments to give picnic dances at Far Hills, 
his beautiful country home. On Sat- 
urday afternoons two classes, composed 
exclusively of children of the National 
Cash Register neighborhood, are taught 
dancing and deportment. 



Welfare Work 



123 




A Corner in the Dining-room, Woman's Century Club House 



Landscape Gardening 
Besides providing for the physical 
comfort and intellectual improvement 
of its employees, the National Cash 
Register has also turned its attention 
to the betterment of their surround- 
ings. Ten years ago the neighborhood 
was dreary and unattractive. The trans- 
formation to its present appearance 
was brought about through the intro- 
duction of landscape gardening, with 
results as shown by the accompanying 
photographs. 

Some Results of Welfare Work 
The opportunities for self-improve- 
ment afforded by the company led 
up to the organization of the Woman's 
Century Club, which has a member- 
ship of six hundred. It is a literary 
club, and is affiliated not only with the 
State, but with the National Federa- 
tion of Women's Clubs. 

It publishes in the interest of the 
working-women of the world a quar- 
terly magazine called Woman's Welfare, 
which, because of its large circulation, 
has done much to induce other em- 



ployers throughout the world to adopt 
National Cash Register methods of 
making more pleasant the working 
hours of their people. 

Woman's Century Club-house 

On April 11, 1904, the club decided 
to rent and furnish a club-house which 
would serve as a home for members 
who have no relatives in Dayton. 

It was inspiring to see the enthusi- 
asm with which the whole club co- 
operated in getting the house ready 
for occupancy. A number of girls 
volunteered to remain after working 
hours to make comforts, hem sheets, 
towels, sash curtains, and the other 
household linens necessary. 

One department fitted up a room. 
Another department supplied three 
dozen teaspoons and two dozen nap- 
kins. All have done their share in one 
way or another. 

The house was opened April 25, 
completely furnished, and with ten 
girls as lodgers. They pay $2.75 each, 
if two occupy one room, and S3. 50 
per week, if one occupies a room alone. 



I2 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Rubicon," the Home of the Woman's Century Club 



Club members who live in the vicinity 
are allowed to take their meals at the 
home. Single meals can be arranged 
for at any time by consulting the ma- 
tron. The club has assumed the re- 
sponsibility of paying the matron's 
salary. The income from rooms and 
meals will cover all other running ex- 
penses. 

Rubicon 
It soon became evident from the 
demand for rooms that more commo- 
dious quarters must be provided. After 
a residence of six months in their first 
home the old Patterson homestead 
was leased by the club to meet such a 
demand. This old colonial home, sur- 
rounded by seventeen acres, is known 
as Rubicon. It was named by Mr. 
Patterson's grandfather. 

Men's Welfare Work League 
Welfare work is also carried on by 
the company for the benefit of its male 



employees, who in turn have organized 
themselves into a league known as 
the Men's Welfare Work League. 

This organization is independent in 
its actions, is in no way interfered with 
by the company, and is presided over 
by an executive board selected from 
among the factory employees. 

One of the objects of this organiza- 
tion is the encouragement of domestic 
science and manual training in the pub- 
lic schools. An example along this 
line was the recent equipping of a neigh- 
borhood school with an entire cooking 
outfit for twenty-four pupils, thus 
affording training in domestic science 
for the girls of the seventh and eighth 
grades. 

This organization has also installed 
a children's model playground, an 
outdoor gymnasium, and free public 
baths ; and it maintains classes in clay 
modelling, w T ood-carving, freehand draw- 
ing, and basketry. 

It also publishes a weekly paper, in 



How not to be Poor 



I2 5 



the interest of its work, with a cir- 
culation of forty-two hundred, and 
takes an active interest in the munici- 
pal affairs of the city, such as correct- 
ing existing nuisances detrimental to 
the public health, encouraging civic 



improvement and advanced educational 
ideas. 

The Men's Welfare Work League has 
a membership of twenty-five hundred, 
and has been doing effective work during 
the twenty months of its organization. 



How not to be Poor 

By Mrs. Charles Norman 



THERE is a common belief 
among Swiss people that all 
Americans are wealthy, the 
reason for this opinion being that 
American travelers throw their money 
to the four winds. 

"Ah," said an old man, who under- 
stood their ways, "they no come 
to little hotels. They be Americano. 
They have Hotel Splendid and large 
music when they eat." 

Now "large music" may be a fort- 
unate accompaniment to a meal, but 
the "Americano" is not always rich; 
and he who lives luxuriously in Switzer- 
land must sometimes settle down to 
poor folk's ways when he gets home. 
And he has, unfortunately, learned 
nothing at the Hotel Splendid to help 
him along his weary road. 

He comes back to his native coun- 
try, — a land flowing with milk and 
honey,- — where, if he would, he might 
get rich. He leaves rugged, moun- 
tain-oppressed Switzerland, where, to 
gain a meagre living, a man must 
conquer unconquerable Nature; yet 
he leaves a people better off than those 
to whom he returns. 

As regards natural wealth, Switzer- 
land is one of the poorest countries 
in Europe; yet its private citizens are 
well-to-do. It is true large fortunes 
are rare, but poverty is almost un- 
known; and the much-talked-of sim- 



ple life — the . genuine simple life — is 
actually lived by a good many people. 
It is not seen in the Hotel Splendid. 

For centuries back the Swiss people 
have been influenced by a natural 
environment which is almost over- 
whelming in its grandeur. In the way 
of making a living, almost everything 
has been against them. Avalanches, 
landslides, winds, floods, and forest 
fires, — an unceasing battle has been 
fought with these foes. 

Instead of fertile fields the farms 
are, for the most part, mountain sides," 
not adapted in their native states to 
earning anything. Under certain con- 
ditions the cultivation of grapes is 
remunerative, but the dangers and 
hardships of the labor are little known. 
Most of the vineyards need irriga- 
tion, and, to effect this, a wooden con- 
duit must be built, to distribute the 
muddy waters of the glaciers. To con- 
struct these conduits up mountain 
slopes and across mountain streams 
is extremely perilous, as an avalanche 
may sweep away work and workmen. 
Indeed, the likelihood of accident is 
so great that the work is not often 
undertaken, unless a priest is present 
to administer the sacrament. 

These conduits, the terraced hillsides, 
walled with rock, and the public roads 
bespeak the indomitable will of the 
people. Labor which in this coun- 



126 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



try would only be undertaken by a 
stock company, is there assumed by 
an individual. A stupendous wall has 
often to be built, to protect a single 
home from landslide or avalanche. In 
the twinkling of an eye the work of 
years is brought to naught, and the 
toiler must calmly begin again. 

Constant watchfulness, attentions to 
details, become habitual, and, like the 
tortoise in the race, the workman 
proves a winner; while we headlong 
Americans, with all our wealth and 
advantages, must confess, too often, 
the failure of our finances. 

As usual, the difficulties all resolve 
themselves into matters of detail. 
It is by small economies, by daily 
thrift and constant care, that these 
people, whom Nature would keep poor, 
are mastering this money question. 

"Finances!" said Napoleon. "Get 
your principles right, and the finances 
will take care of themselves." And I 
know a woman, as successful in her 
own home as Napoleon was in his army, 
who said one day as she manufactured 
a certain kitchen utensil: "Indeed, 
I shan't buy one. What's the use of 
having a head, if I cannot get along 
without money?" 

The women of Switzerland know 
how to help themselves. They can use 
not only their brains, but their hands 
also. They have an existence quite 
as important to the family finances 
as have the men. There is not one 
way, but many ways, in which a Swiss 
woman may make a dollar, and yet 
remain at home; and there are hun- 
dreds of ways by which she can save 
a dollar. Embroidery is not all done 
by machinery, but the most tasteful 
and original designs come often from 
peasants. Lace-making is also a prac- 
tised art, and the beautiful scarfs which 
adorn the heads of the women show 
that they have not lost their interest 
in personal adornment. Sometimes 
toil-marked hands, by no means dainty, 



are engaged upon the most delicate 
and exquisite piece of lace. Wood- 
carving, even parts of watch-making, 
are done at home. 

Except in the cities each family has 
a garden; and it is a field of labor 
quite adapted to men, women, and 
children, and a most wholesome and 
remunerative field it is. All the work- 
ers have proper pride in their own 
special products. The men are often 
obliged to do the more arduous work, 
such as taking the cows up the moun- 
tains for pasture. They must also 
cut down the trees and make ready the 
fuel for the long winter. That this 
task is not neglected is evinced by 
the goodly stock of wood which each 
house has under its eaves. 

Garden work is thus left largely 
to women and children; and all the 
family spend part of the year in the 
fragrant, wonderful outdoors. The 
garden, too, is a place of loveliness, 
having flowers, vines, and trees, be- 
sides its vegetables and grain. Even 
the poorest families have these rest- 
ful garden spots, and a few flowers in 
the window casements, to relieve an 
otherwise dismal home. 

It is common for each country fam- 
ily to raise enough hay for its own 
cattle, wheat and barley enough for 
bread, and flax enough for clothing. 
Then there is always an abundant sup- 
ply of vegetables, for the storing of 
which is a spacious room under the 
dwelling. To one home belong a few 
sheep, to another a few goats; and it 
is a picturesque sight to see a sweet 
miss conducting her little flock to 
pasture. 

Not much meat is eaten. The chief 
foods are milk, delightful cream, and 
good cheese. One palatable and popu- 
lar dish is made of cheese curds stewed 
in cream, and then baked with a little 
butter. 

About the kitchen is a fine stock 
of shining brass cooking utensils ; for, if 



m\ 




the Swiss housewife has a weakness, 
it is for such possessions. They are 
not in a pantry, but hang on the kitchen 
walls in glittering array. 

Every home has a few nut-bearing 
trees and some fruit. Besides there 
are fruit-trees along all the highways. 
In America, sad to say, such trees 
would be of no consequence, as the 
fruit would certainly be picked by 
idle children before it was ripe. In- 
deed, we are often compelled to pluck 
prematurely fruit growing on our own 
premises. "I must either eat green 
cherries or never taste one," said one 
of my neighbors last year. I doubt 
if such a case ever exists in Switzer- 
land, as it seems to be inculcated in 
every child's brain that unripe fruit 
is absolutely unfit for use, and, fur- 
thermore, that wilful waste makes woful 
want. 

There is not, so far as I could dis- 
cover, a vestige of waste among these 
people. Refuse from barns, poultry- 
houses, and pig-pens, is carefully saved 
and applied where it will do most good. 
Wood ashes are fine for grapevines. 
Vines that are pruned away serve 
for ropes. Branches from thorn-trees 
make barbed fences. Slender twigs, 
too small for the cook-stove, are woven 



with cord to make window-shades and 
awnings. Mulberry leaves feed the 
silkworms. The forests are carefully 
tended, and the trees are given, not 
only a chance for light and air, but 
are also protected from -worms. 

There seems to be a general sym- 
pathy with nature. A man feels with 
his trees, and suffers when they are 
thirsty. This may arise from reasons 
other than humane, for the Swiss 
know the full sum of their indebted- 
ness to the forest. It shields them 
from extremes of heat and cold, 
interrupts landslide and avalanche, 
prevents the washing away of the top 
soil, preserves the moisture in adja- 
cent fields, and provides a permanent 
supply of wood for building and for fuel. 

Yet, whatever the original motive, 
the people have come close to nature; 
and the contact has made them con- 
templative, slow-going, and rational. 
It is a hard life I have pictured, but 
it need not be half so hard in America 
as in Switzerland. It is a hard life, 
but it does not end in disaster and 
despair. The people do not grumble, 
they do not harass themselves with 
desire for inane and meaningless pos- 
sessions, and they have not lost the 
power to think beautiful thoughts. 



The Child's Smile 

By Jane Dramfield Stone 



There passed a child, 
And smiled at me, 
A stranger child, 
Unknown to me. 



It makes one feel 
All are akin. 
Tis love's appeal, 
And love will win. 



A smile like this The spirit vast 

Across dull space Upon the world 

Is like a kiss Is yet held fast, 

Upon the face. In child's heart curled. 

The spirit small 

In child's heart curled 

Is spirit all 

Upon the world. 



126 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



try would only be undertaken by a 
stock company, is there assumed by 
an individual. A stupendous wall has 
often to be built, to protect a single 
home from landslide or avalanche. In 
the twinkling of an eye the work of 
years is brought to naught, and the 
toiler must calmly begin again. 

Constant watchfulness, attentions to 
details, become habitual, and, like the 
tortoise in the race, the workman 
proves a winner; while we headlong 
Americans, with all our wealth and 
advantages, must confess, too often, 
the failure of our finances. 

As usual, the difficulties all resolve 
themselves into matters of detail. 
It is by small economies, by daily 
thrift and constant care, that these 
people, whom Nature would keep poor, 
are mastering this money question. 

"Finances!" said Napoleon. "Get 
your principles right, and the finances 
will take care of themselves." And I 
know a woman, as successful in her 
own home as Napoleon was in his army, 
who said one day as she manufactured 
a certain kitchen utensil: "Indeed, 
I shan't buy one. What's the use of 
having a head, if I cannot get along 
without money?" 

The women of Switzerland know 
how to help themselves. They can use 
not only their brains, but their hands 
also. They have an existence quite 
as important to the family finances 
as have the men. There is not one 
way, but many ways, in which a Swiss 
woman may make a dollar, and yet 
remain at home; and there are hun- 
dreds of ways by which she can save 
a dollar. Embroidery is not all done 
by machinery, but the most tasteful 
and original designs come often from 
peasants. Lace-making is also a prac- 
tised art, and the beautiful scarfs which 
adorn the heads of the women show 
that they have not lost their interest 
in personal adornment. Sometimes 
toil-marked hands, by no means dainty, 



are engaged upon the most delicate 
and exquisite piece of lace. Wood- 
carving, even parts of watch-making, 
are done at home. 

Except in the cities each family has 
a garden; and it is a field of labor 
quite adapted to men, women, and 
children, and a most wholesome and 
remunerative field it is. All the work- 
ers have proper pride in their own 
special products. The men are often 
obliged to do the more arduous work, 
such as taking the cows up the moun- 
tains for pasture. They must also 
cut down the trees and make ready the 
fuel for the long winter. That this 
task is not neglected is evinced by 
the goodly stock of wood which each 
house has under its eaves. 

Garden work is thus left largely 
to women and children; and all the 
family spend part of the year in the 
fragrant, wonderful outdoors. The 
garden, too, is a place of loveliness, 
having flowers, vines, and trees, be- 
sides its vegetables and grain. Even 
the poorest families have these rest- 
ful garden spots, and a few flowers in 
the window casements, to relieve an 
otherwise dismal home. 

It is common for each country fam- 
ily to raise enough hay for its own 
cattle, wheat and barley enough for 
bread, and flax enough for clothing. 
Then there is always an abundant sup- 
ply of vegetables, for the storing of 
which is a spacious room under the 
dwelling. To one home belong a few 
sheep, to another a few goats; and it 
is a picturesque sight to see a sweet 
miss conducting her little flock to 
pasture. 

Not much meat is eaten. The chief 
foods are milk, delightful cream, and 
good cheese. One palatable and popu- 
lar dish is made of cheese curds stewed 
in cream, and then baked with a little 
butter. 

About the kitchen is a fine stock 
of shining brass cooking utensils; for, if 



The Child's Smile 



127 



the Swiss housewife has a weakness, 
it is for such possessions. They are 
not in a pantry, but hang on the kitchen 
walls in glittering array. 

Every home has a few nut-bearing 
trees and some fruit. Besides there 
are fruit-trees along all the highways. 
In America, sad to say, such trees 
would be of no consequence, as the 
fruit would certainly be picked by 
idle children before it was ripe. In- 
deed, we are often compelled to pluck 
prematurely fruit growing on our own 
premises. "I must either eat green 
cherries or never taste one," said one 
of my neighbors last year. I doubt 
if such a case ever exists in Switzer- 
land, as it seems to be inculcated in 
every child's brain that unripe fruit 
is absolutely unfit for use, and, fur- 
thermore, that wilful waste makes woful 
want. 

There is not, so far as I could dis- 
cover, a vestige of waste among these 
people. Refuse from barns, poultry- 
houses, and pig-pens, is carefully saved 
and applied where it will do most good. 
Wood ashes are fine for grapevines. 
Vines that are pruned away serve 
for ropes. Branches from thorn-trees 
make barbed fences. Slender twigs, 
too small for the cook-stove, are woven 



with cord to make window-shades and 
awnings. Mulberry leaves feed the 
silkworms. The forests are carefully 
tended, and the trees are given, not 
only a chance for light and air, but 
are also protected from worms. 

There seems to be a general sym- 
pathy with nature. A man feels with 
his trees, and suffers when they are 
thirsty. This may arise from reasons 
other than humane, for the Swiss 
know the full sum of their indebted- 
ness to the forest. It shields them 
from extremes of heat and cold, 
interrupts landslide and avalanche, 
prevents the washing away of the top 
soil, preserves the moisture in adja- 
cent fields, and provides a permanent 
supply of wood for building and for fuel. 

Yet, whatever the original motive, 
the people have come close to nature; 
and the contact has made them con- 
templative, slow-going, and rational. 
It is a hard life I have pictured, but 
it need not be half so hard in America 
as in Switzerland. It is a hard life, 
but it does not end in disaster and 
despair. The people do not grumble, 
they do not harass themselves with 
desire for inane and meaningless pos- 
sessions, and they have not lost the 
power to think beautiful thoughts. 



The Child's Smile 

By Jane Dramfield Stone 



There passed a child, 
And smiled at me, 
A stranger child, 
Unknown to me. 

A smile like this 
Across dull space 
Is like a kiss 
Upon the face. 



It makes one feel 
All are akin. 
Tis love's appeal, 
And love will win. 

The spirit vast 

Upon the world 

Is yet held fast, 

In child's heart curled. 



The spirit small 

In child's heart curled 

Is spirit all 

Upon the world. 



Base of Supplies 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



MARK TWAIN'S humorous 
lament over the long dis- 
tance to be traveled just 
for a lemon has endeared him to the 
heart of every housekeeper who is far 
away from her base of supplies. 

She spends the spring in hunting 
for a house for the summer. She finds 
it at last, — piazza, plumbing, range 
all right, and the butcher and grocer 
coming every other day, alternating 
with- each other; and she thinks all is 
going to be lovely. In her enthusi- 
asm she orders more groceries of the 
kind she does not want, and not enough 
of what she ought to have on hand. 
Company suddenly appears, and she 
conceives of a rennet pudding as a 
dessert. Ah! she forgot to lay in 
any rennet, and the grocer will not 
come till the next day; and she can- 
not leave her company to walk three 
miles to the village to get it. So she 
compromises on hot biscuit and chops, 
only to discover that the baking- 
powder is out. Her friend feels tired. 
There is no Jamaica ginger in the 
house, and the village doctor lives 
four miles away. The refrigerator 
leaks, and she telephones to the near- 
est plumber, six miles distant; and 
he has gone off on an all-day job. 
She sends the children for some peas, 
and finds that the cows got at them 
last night, and that the ice-house 
was broken into, and the meats stolen. 
Worse than all, her husband tells her 
she is not equal to emergencies; and 
all goes criss-cross, just because she 
is so far from her base of supplies. 

Yet, in the midst of her despair, 
she is grateful she is not an army far 
from its base of supplies. The terror 
of the phrase follows her through the 
summer. However much provision for 
the next day she makes, she never gets 



the one thing she should have done, 
and she never can get it till the mor- 
row. Even in her dreams she re- 
minds herself to get a yeast cake. 
Moreover, the grocer never has what 
she wants, though he will send to town 
for it, while she waits twenty-four 
hours. But, whatever he has or has 
not, he always has candy, soap, and 
hand lamps; and she gratefully ac- 
knowledges the potency of the three 
supplies. 

It is just this distance from the 
corner grocery, and just this difficulty 
in forecasting all possible wants, that 
makes many women so tired when 
summer is over. 

Then, perhaps, she is the only one 
with moderate means in a wealthy 
community. She looks for a hitch- 
ing-post, when she drives herself to 
return calls, and discovers that its 
office has been usurped by a retinue 
of servants, who transmit from one 
to another the order to put up her 
horse. When the steed is brought 
back to the door as she leaves, she 
does not know enough to give the 
man a quarter, and wonders why he 
follows her down the avenue. 

Then her maid becomes as snob- 
bish as her dog, and informs her that 
at none of the other peaces does the 
lady interview the butcher's cart, 
though in town it was all right for her 
to go to market. She wishes she were 
home again in her little house in a 
narrow street, with butcher, grocer, 
plumber, next door. 

Fortunate is it, therefore, with the 
increasing exodus from the city into 
the solitary places of the country, that 
cooking schools, departments of house- 
hold arts, cook-books, and magazines 
have multiplied, so that every one who 
will can learn more or less how to be 



Base of Supplies 



129 



independent of daily visits from butcher 
and grocer, to supply the waste of 
improvident management. 

A little knowledge of plumbing and 
sanitation, such as is taught in these 
schools, helps mightily, when plumbers 
are not handy. A woman who is 
housekeeper must be independent of 
labor specialists, and be willing to work 
twelve hours herself at any and every- 
thing, just because those whom she 
employs will work but eight hours. 
No happy-go-lucky person can depend 
on intuition to take the place of train- 
ing in regard to supplies. Summer is 
harder than winter for a housekeeper, 
as provisions will not keep over. The 
shelling of peas and the stringing of 
beans and the baking of berry pies 
takes time. Then there is a good deal 
of humbug about fresh eggs and 
cream. Here, again, comes in the 
benefit of cooking- school knowledge, 
and its pupil manages to get along with 
thin milk, and to cook without free 
use of eggs in her summer life. 

Apart from the value of cooking 
classes, in showing one how to get the 
better of a poor base of supplies, 
their value has already begun to affect 
the rate of marriage. If girls, because 
of their new industrial status, are no 
longer compelled to marry for a home, 
men still marry to get a housekeeper. 
The nicer cook a girl is, the more suitors 
has she. Thus is it that a large pro- 
portion of household art or domestic 
science graduates, having made a sci- 
ence, a learned profession of house- 
keeping, know they can do their own 
work, and have good times besides; 
and more of them marry than of kinder- 
gar tners, it is said. Their knowledge 
gives them a fascinating nonchalance; 
and their easy, swift skill and eco- 
nomical devices, with delightful re- 
sults attached, make men less afraid 
that they cannot afford to marry. 

The phrase, ''base of supplies," sig- 
nifies forethought, accumulation, adap- 



tation. It meant the soup which Wel- 
lington ordered to have ready for his 
men in the Spanish Peninsular War. 
It was the fullness of the word "Mo- 
bile" which the German commander, 
Moltke, uttered that set going the 
Franco-German War. It was the want 
of such base that carried Florence 
Nightingale to the Crimean War, and 
which brought forth Roosevelt's Round 
Robin in the Cuban War. It is ap- 
preciation of the need of such base 
that is urging entomologists to fight 
against the gypsy moth, and is bring- 
ing in foreign parasites to destroy 
mosquitoes. From the time of Moses, 
it is always the old story of the seven 
full years in which to prepare for the 
seven lean ones, the moral of which 
we, as individual housekeepers, apply 
in our daily lives. 

"To run a hotel," "to handle a lot 
of girls or men," or "to keep things 
going," are by- words of praise, im- 
plying energy. But energy cannot be 
continuously effective, unless its base 
of supplies is kept in good working 
order, with due modern improvements. 
We are so apt to be spasmodic instead 
of steady, persistent, and concentrated 
in our endeavors, all because we did 
not take time to lay in a base of sup- 
plies, before we began spending our 
energy upon whatever we have in 
hand. 

When young, we are too easy and 
blithe to forecast the future; when 
middle-aged, we are in the plenitude 
of our powers, and believe that they 
will conquer age; when old, then it 
is we must fall back on our base of 
supplies. Alas if we have none ! If 
our bank account be closed, our 
strength exhausted, our memory weak, 
and our friends few! But, if we have 
learned the art of making new friends, 
as old ones drift from us, of counting 
the pleasures and not the pains of life, 
of husbanding our faculties, remem- 
bering that, "when God shuts a door, 



*3° 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



he opens a window," and of getting cruse, there is always enough for each 

much sustenance out of scant moneys, day. There is never old age, where 

then our base of supplies dwindles the spirit has kept its base of supplies 

not wholly away. Like the widow's well furnished. 



Some Deep Woods Tid-bits 

By Helen Campbell 



THAT the tea was smoky and 
the bacon scorched seemed 
only in order after a day in 
which, from start to finish, all had 
been against them. The weather 
might be excepted, for that was per- 
fect; but the day that held it was 
steady disappointment. 

It had begun with the old half- 
blood woodsman, a guide of forty 
years' and more standing, whose cook- 
ing was inimitable, his woodcraft no 
less, and his stories as good as his cook- 
ing. This morning he had left the 
camp, his face serene, his eye confident 
and steady, to turn back hastily before 
a hundred yards had been covered. 

"I go not, — not this day," he said 
to the younger guide; but from neither 
could any explanation be had. And 
the hunting party, discomfited, fol- 
lowed the younger leader discontent- 
edly; and with reason, for no game ap- 
peared save a stray squirrel or so, 
the deep Canadian woods as silent 
as if all animal life had passed from 
them; and the bags came back practi- 
cally empty, their owners in much the 
same case. 

"Sacre bleu! I have said so," the 
old guide muttered as he turned from 
them, but not till the unsatisfactory 
supper was over did he explain the 
cause. 

"C'est le miserable, — zat chickadee 
that is spoil all," he said. "When he 
sing so as this morning in front of 
one, then go not out ever. If one 
does, it is a bad thing that will happen." 



"But how do you know, Antoine?" 

Antoine shook his head solemnly. 
"But it is so, messieurs. I hear it 
always, — from my grandfather first; 
and old Indians tell him. They tell 
me also. They know. I have stopped 
in time; but even me, you see, I have 
poplar wood in my fire, and it spoil tea. 
And why do I get it, when I know 
well there is no luck in poplar-tree? 
With fire of its branches the pot will 
boil over, the bouillon will burn, the 
tea be smoky as to-night. When have 
you known it so with Antoine? Not 
even to shoot good bird, if it sit on 
poplar- tree, is best, for evil comes with 
it. Mais voyons, messieurs. It is 
chickadee, and now the bad day is 
done. I am fool all day, even to this 
minute; for I forget the real supper. 
How I know not, for there it is behind 
the logs, where I have it simmer in 
the camp oven, Dieu me garde!" And 
now Antoine went hastily to the spot, 
returning with the three-legged kettle, 
from which proceeded *an odor so 
delicious that the little party rose as 
one man to fall upon it. 

"That is more like it, Antoine!" 
they cried; and now they attacked 
the steaming platefuls he was serving, 
pausing with a smile of deep content 
as he watched them. 

"You like it?" he said, as he offered 
the kettle for a second instalment. 

"Fine, Antoine! The best yet, and 
that is saying much; but I don't quite 
make it out. What is it?" 

1 ' Dare I tell you, monsieur ? I think 



Some Deep Woods Tid-bits 



!3 T 



so, now that you know it excellent. 
It is what you cannot eat in spring, 
when it is strong of its name, but 
now, yes; for it is autumn, and no 
better meat can be. It is muskrat, 
monsieur. Pardon if I tell not in the 
beginning; for perhaps, if I do, you 
never know that it is a dish for epi- 
cures. I roast it, also, like hare or 
rabbit, and it has flavor more than 
they; but this way is best. Ah! the 
hunter who knows has choice bits that 
he who buys in cities never knows. 
They must be eaten in the woods. 
See now what I do for breakfast." 
And he produced some peeled birch 
twigs and a dish of little squares of 
bacon and meat, and proceeded to 
string them alternately on the stick. 

"Sweetbreads en brochette, as I'm 
a living sinner!" the youngest in the 
party said. 

" Mais non, monsieur. It is kidneys, 
— a deer's kidneys that I parboil a 
little, then make, as now, to broil over 
good coals. It is a dish for a king." 

The pipes had been lighted. The 
spell, which Antoine still insisted the 
chickadee had cast, had vanished with 
sunset and the rising incense of this 
stew of stews, to which even the word 
"rat" was no longer a drawback, 
though certainly an astonishment. 

"What else have you hidden away be- 
hind the logs ? Didn't I see a flat-tailed 
something in the shadow, Antoine?" 

It was the youngest in the party who 
spoke, and Antoine looked at him 
approvingly. 

"Monsieur has quick eyes. It is a 
beaver that hangs there to grow ten- 
derer. Its tail is a bonne bouche, its 
feet better than best little pigs, and 
itself all good, roast or in stew. When 
you have tail, you first heat in the 
fire a little, and soon all the skin can 
be pulled off. Then one boils it 
slowly, reducing the broth enough for 
fine sauce, or I roast it in pot, which 
is perhaps best. Then in winter one 



has the moose nose, though, if you eat 
that, the fine head you would save 
is gone, since to take off the skin, 
so that the nose, too, may be stuffed 
with the head, takes its best part. 
But, when they are plenty, then one 
cuts off the nose quick, and scalds 
and scrapes it to get off all hair. Then 
it is smoked a little while, and boiled 
very slow, very careful; and then we 
eat, and are glad to live. Caribou nose 
is also good, but full of small bones, 
so do not trouble with it unless game 
is short. Then we eat all things. 
Porcupine is good, and bear, when the 
season comes; and with bear you eat 
him every inch, as you do pig, only 
bear's ham is better than any ham 
the pig can own. But I say always, 
of the life in the woods, Bat the things 
that are in the woods, and soon you 
know what is good, and how best to 
combine in your fricassee or bouillon, 
which one may have always, roots and 
herbs, if meat be lacking; but there 
is always something, even if but one 
small bird." 

"Use your chickadee, Antoine; and 
then you will have no more trouble," 
said the youngest hunter. And An- 
toine crossed himself. 

"That would be death, monsieur," 
he said gravely. "It is not well to 
mention such thing where the chicka- 
dee sit and may hear." And, shaking 
his head, he went back to the logs and 
the camp oven, in which he laid his 
brochette skewers for safety till morning. 

"Fearfully superstitious!" the elder 
man said, as he rolled himself in blankets 
for the night; but the younger one 
shook his head. 

"Not an atom more than we with 
our fear of thirteen, and all the rest 
of the nonsense, Friday unlucky, and 
so on," the younger one replied; and 
the third said promptly: — 

"Good for you, Archie! I'm with 
you, " and in another minute slept 
the sleep of the happy hunter. 



Escholtzia, my Lady of Dreams 



By Jessie Juliet Knox 



"Writ on her fields in tongues of poppy flame, 
Her name — the Golden One — appears." 

FROM whence came this Bohe- 
mian queen who from beginning 
to end of the flower-decked year 
trails her regal robes of shimmering 
yellow satin over all the sun-kissed 
land of California? California is the 
land of gold, — gold of the kind for 
which men clamor, gold of the eternal 
sunlight on her blue mountain tops 
and dimpling seas, gold of her great 
oranges nestling amid their satin foli- 
age and perfumed blossoms. What 
more fitting than that this land should 
be ruled by Escholtzia, the Golden 
Poppy ? 

This regal maid has a lover, a bold 
and ardent one. It is — the Sun. She 
cannot live without his smile, so that 
is the reason she has chosen California 
as her kingdom. What time the sun 
is hidden, she droops her fair head and 
sleeps, to be awakened only by his 
kiss. 

Many years ago, when men were mad 
for the shining treasure hidden in Cali- 
fornia's rich soil, and rushed tempest- 
uously into the land where the red men 
had hitherto held sway, they were 
amazed at the fields glowing with such 
intense color that they seemed on fire, 
and in the letters sent home to their 
loved ones they sent the pressed blos- 
soms, although that could give no idea 
of the wondrous glory of the scene. 
The Indians loved the flower, and many 
were the beautiful legends in regard to 
it; and, when they found that there 
was gold beneath the soil, they said 
it was because the gold petals of the 
"great Spirit flower," dropping on the 
earth for so many years, had sunk 
deeply, and gradually formed the bright 
metal for which men were clamoring. 



Spanish mariners upon the great 
South Seas called the country "the 
land of fire" (la tierra del fuego), be- 
cause the poppies set a blazing land- 
mark for them. San Gabriel, San Fer- 
nando, and Los Angeles called them the 
"altar cloth of San Pascual." 

The escholtzia is a plant of singular 
beauty, with its great satin petals, 
delicately cut foliage, and graceful 
stems; but, brilliant as it is, it is frail 
and short-lived, and does not flourish 
in society or on beauty's breast, but 
can only be at its best in the fields. 
There one may revel in it, and steep 
the very soul in the sensuous loveliness 
of the wild queen. It has no fragrance, 
only its royal robe of shimmering satin, 
to recommend it; but the splendor of 
the robe is enough. It needs no per- 
fume. 

A stranger entering California for the 
first time cannot find words to express 
his admiration and astonishment at 
the poppy-covered hills and valleys. 
Emerging from the barrenness of the 
desert, one's eyes are fairly dazzled with 
the beauty of the poppy, gilding moun- 
tain slopes and shimmering through 
grain fields and orchards, and glowing, 
"league upon league of it," under 
"the clear and crystalline heavens." 

The poppy was first noticed by the 
early Mission fathers, about 1820. The 
name of the man who first discovered 
it was Kscholtz, hence its name, Es- 
choltzia Calif ornica. 

Although chiefly a California plant, 
yet it is found along the coast and in- 
land, from the peninsula of Lower Cali- 
fornia, in Sonora, northward through 
Arizona, California, and Oregon to 
Washington, and eastward through 
New Mexico and Nevada to Utah. It 
is stated by one botanist that there are 



Escholtzia, my Lady of Dreams 



l 33 



twenty-two species of escholtzia; but 
the accepted species for California has 
foliage of green and bronze-red, and its 
juice has the odor of hydrochloric acid. 
The flowers are from three to five inches 
across, and almost perpetually bloom- 
ing. 

As to the names, the poppy has a 
multitude of them; but we may truth- 
fully say that none of them appeal to 
the Calif ornian so much as "Califor- 
nia's golden poppy." 

The names are derived from German, 
Latin, Greek, Spanish, English, and 
Indian. Escholtzia is the Latinized 
German name, but we have always re- 
belled against it, perhaps because it is 
harsh and unmusical. Early California 
writers made it even more unpleasant by 
pronouncing it es-kolsia, es-kolshy, or 
es-koltz-ea. The correct pronunciation 
is "esh-sholt-si-a." 

It is thought that the "Golden Gate," 
in the bay of San Francisco, took its 
name from the golden poppies growing 
in such masses all over the hills at both 
sides of the entrance to the harbor. 
The name "Cape las flores" was used 
by some of the Spanish mariners, mean- 
ing Mts. Wilson and Lowe, for at the 
base of these peaks acres upon acres of 
yellow poppies were spread, and the 
color could be seen many miles at sea, 
telling the mariner that he was oppo- 
site the Mission landings. 

Luther Burbank, the great "flower 
wizard," has succeeded in producing a 
pure crimson escholtzia. He says that 
the escholtzia can be made to produce 
a flower as large as a saucer, and a 
great many different forms, — cup- 
shaped, petals reflexed, crinkled petals, 
long narrow petals, etc. The poppy is 
not difficult to grow, and is most satis- 
factory. Besides its great beauty, it has 
some practical uses, such as various 
medicinal properties, and it is also used 
as greens. 

It may be stated here that it was 
really at the World's Fair in Chicago 



that the Bohemian queen made her 
first bow to the world, and gained na- 
tional recognition as the emblem of 
California. The "poppy-room" in the 
California building will long be remem- 
bered, and also the exquisite embroid- 
eries and paintings of the poppy con- 
tributed by many native daughters. 

When the poppy was selected as the 
State flower, it started all the journal- 
ists, poets, and artists to work, and all 
nature-lovers hied themselves to the 
fields, to gather great armfuls of its 
stored-up sunshine. Then there ap- 
peared on the market poppy brands of 
everything, — oranges, butter, baking- 
powder, etc. And there were poppies 
on sofa cushions, in burnt leather, on 
post cards, etc. 

Luckily, the poppy, as well as the 
lily and the rose, is well adapted to be 
woven into an artist's dreams, and re- 
produced in all ways. Joaquin Miller, 
the great "poet of the Sierras," has 
said of it : — 

"Behold! the Holy Grail is found; 
Found in each poppy's cup of gold ; 
And God walks with us, as of old." 

Gertrude Atherton, in "The Daugh- 
ter of the Vine," says, in describing a 
summer morning at Santa Barbara, 
"The air was warm; the waves were 
warm; the poppies were opening their 
deep yellow lips, breathing forth the 
languor of the land." 

All the California poets have sung 
of it, and in the most exquisite lan- 
guage, and a few bits, like the follow- 
ing, are too lovely to resist: — 

"Who planted you, golden poppies? 
Were you here when the world was new ? 
Were you painted by the morning? 
Do you mirror the sunset's hue?" 

"Oh, the rose you have trained is a lovely 
slave, 
But the wild gold poppy is free." 

"Flower of the West land, with calyx of gold, 
Swing in the breeze over lace-woven sod ; 



i34 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Filled to the brim with the glory of God, 

All that its wax-petalled chalice can hold." 

* This was the birth of it, on the brown plain 
The sun dropped a kiss in the footprint of 
rain." 

"The great orange flowers of yester- 
day again unroll their golden sheaves 
to take a farewell look at the world 
beautiful. Green caps are ambitiously 
thrust up from dusky eyes. ... At 



noon it is a sea of waving, shimmering 
gold, rippling with the passing zephyrs." 
And lastly how beautiful is this ! — 
"Men of toil and women of care, the 
hills and fields are thy comforters. Go 
to them, and find the golden poppy! 
The blue sky is over it; the birds sing 
around it; cherish and love all the 
sweet things that nature has provided 
for ye, and behold ye shall be eternally 
blest." 



A Cheap, Easy, and Efficient Way of 
Pasteurizing Milk 

By Mrs. M. H. Plunkett 



WHAT is pasteurization? It 
is treating milk in such a 
way as to destroy the mi- 
crobes which infest it without destroy- 
ing its nutritious or appetizing qual- 
ities. 

This should always be done when it 
is to be used as an infant's food. The 
milk in the cow's udder is perfectly 
germ free. The instant it strikes the 
outer air it encounters numbers of 
the microbes that will cause its fer- 
mentation, or "souring." These mi- 
crobes have such a power of rapid 
proliferation that in a short time a 
cubic centimetre of the milk contains 
myriads of them. When they are in- 
troduced to the baby's stomach, they 
are placed in the condition of warmth 
that is just suited to promote their 
rapid multiplication; and it is this 
fermentation that causes so many 
deaths of infants, — a truly Herodian 
kind of murder. It is this that cre- 
ates that terror of mothers, — "baby's 
second summer"; and the modern 
treatment of cholera infantum, shut- 
ting off milk entirely as food, and in- 



testinal irrigation, until no smallest 
microbe is to be seen, has rescued many 
a threatened little life. 

To prevent this is the object of pas- 
teurization; and it must be begun at 
the beginning, which is a common 
fruit jar, with a top that screws se- 
curely and hermetically on. This 
should be most thoroughly scalded 
and scrubbed, especially the inside 
of the cover, the screwing part of both 
bottle and top cleaned with a brush. 
When perfectly cleaned, put a small 
earthen plate in the bottom of a 
saucepan or kettle filled* with cold 
water. Then set on the plate the 
bottle filled with the milk to be treated, 
and test it occasionally with a bath 
thermometer (this thermometer will 
cause the only extra expense); and, 
when the mercury marks 155 , re- 
move the, bottle. Place the top on 
at once; and surround the bottle with 
a towel, or a strip of flannel, which is 
to remain while the bottle becomes 
cold. And this slow cooling insures 
the destruction of the very last mi- 
crobe; the milk has no "scalded 



In October 



!3S 



taste," and has acquired no deleteri- 
ous qualities. A mother, to whom 
nature denied the ability to suckle 
her children, reared four sturdy, healthy 
children, by strictly following the above 
directions. 

That intelligent effort in this direc- 
tion "pays" will be seen by the fol- 
lowing : — 

A New Jersey town, which in summer 
was almost wholly occupied by tempo- 
rary summer denizens from New York 
City, got its drinking water from a much- 
polluted stream that ran through it. 
This was before the general public 
was properly enlightened as to the 
deadly work of bad water ; but a 
gentleman, who lived there the year 
round, had two fine young boys, and 
greatly desired a pure water sup- 
ply, as he could not rouse these tem- 
porary residents to do anything, 
he set up a system of his own. He 
procured two large bottles of a peculiar 
shape, holding enough water to sup- 
ply the family for one day. His 



business was in New York; but every 
day, before breakfast, he saw to it that 
enough water was boiled to fill these 
bottles, and then they were placed in 
the ice-box. And he forbade his fam- 
ily from imbibing any other water. 
All around him his neighbors were 
losing their babies by cholera in- 
fantum, while his children remained 
well. He realized the need, and put in 
practice that "eternal vigilance" that 
is required in hygiene, if we are to 
escape the penalty of drinking water 
that contains disease germs. 

The work that Mr. Strauss has done 
for New York, in supplying sterilized 
(pasteurized) milk to that city, has 
saved thousands of lives; and it is the 
saving of children's lives that is telling 
in the lengthening of the average of 
human life, as is shown by all health 
tables in all the countries where re- 
liable records are kept. Be sure that 
the pasteurizing of the baby's milk 
is worth all that it costs in time and 
trouble. 



In October 

By Kate Matson Post 



Through mellow days the autumn sun 

Its gold is pouring down. 
Ripe apples fall from laden boughs, 

And fields are turning brown. 



And blazing sumachs mark the course 

Of pleasant winding ways, 
And by the fence the asters crowd 

In banks of purple haze. 



And still the busy crickets thrum 
Their tireless, aimless tune, 

And sparrows feast on ripened seeds 
Where flowers bloomed in June. 



And yet these gorgeous autumn days, 

With subtle breath of spring, 
Lack all spring's charm of youth and hope, 

And naught but sadness bring. 



For who'd exchange for all thy gold, 

Bright middle-aged year, 
One day of spring, one hour of youth, 

And trust that knows no fear? 



Laundering o 

Removal of Stains 

REMOVE all stains as soon after 
they are made as is possible. 
Wash out milk or meat stains 
with warm water. When the linen 
is stained by tea, chocolate, coffee, or 
fruit, stretch the portion of linen dis- 
colored over a bowl. Have ready a 
kettle of water, at the boiling-point, 
Hold the kettle high, and let the water 
fall from it onto the stain until it dis- 
appears. Most stains will yield to this 
treatment. Peach stains are the most 
difficult to remove. If the stain be 
small, wet it thoroughly, then burn a 
sulphur match beneath the spot. Cover 
wine stains with common salt, then 
pour boiling water over them, as de- 
scribed above. 

Washing the Linen 
Shave laundry soap very fine. Pour 
boiling water over it, and set on the 
back of the range to dissolve. Then 
pour into a tub, and add lukewarm 
water to make a suds. In this put 
the linen, the larger pieces at the bot- 
tom, and let stand for several hours 
or over night. Wring the pieces from 
this water, and put them into a tub 
of water at a temperature such as can 
be well borne by the hand. Wash out, 
and put into a boiler (upon the stove), 
half filled with cold water, and to 
which soap, shaved and dissolved in 
water, has been added. Let the linen 
remain over the fire until the water 
boils. Then take it up, and dispose 
in a tub of cold water. Let stand a 



f Table Linen 

few minutes, then rinse thoroughly, 
to remove all soap. Wring out, and 
put into a tub of bluing water. Wring 
out again, and dry in the open air. 
Use either liquid or ball bluing. In 
using the latter, tie a ball loosely in 
a flannel bag. Move the ball back and 
forth in a dipper of lukewarm water 
until it is well blued. Then turn into 
the tub of water. Add more bluing 
after a portion of the linen has been 
wrung from the water. 

Starching Table Linen 
Linens of good body need no starch. 
Very thin, old, linen table-cloths may 
be wrung out of very thin starch. Do 
not use more than one level tablespoon- 
ful of starch to two quarts of water. 
Dilute the dry starch with two or 
three tablespoonfuls of cold water. 
Pour over the boiling water, and stir 
and cook about ten minutes. Then 
add half a teaspoonful of powdered 
borax. Strain the starch, if neces- 
sary. Add a little bluing, if desired, 
and wring the linen as dry as possible. 

Folding Linen to Iron 
When the linen is dry enough to 
iron, fold table-cloths in the middle, 
lengthwise, letting the corners come 
together exactly, and the sides and 
ends meet at every point. Then fold 
again; and, finally, roll up tightly, 
and finish by rolling in a dry cloth. 
Lay a napkin flat upon the table. 
Above this lay other napkins, one after 
another, spreading each out smoothly 



The Up-to-date Waitress 



x 37 



and stretching the hems. All table 
linen should be made very damp. 
Sprinkle with clean water, using a clean 
brush kept for the purpose. Roll very 
tight, and protect from, the air by 
rolling in a cloth. Let stand several 
hours or over night. 

Washing Linen with Colored Em- 
broidery 
Dissolve two level tablespoonfuls 
of powdered borax in a little hot water, 
and add to a gallon of water. Take 
the pieces, one at a time, sop in the 
water, rinse up and down, and knead 
until clean. Repeat this process in 
clear water, then roll in a dry cloth. 
Continue until all are washed. In this 
way the colors will not stain the linen. 
The dry cloth will take up the water 
quickly, and the pieces need be ironed 
in a very few moments. 

Ironing 
For good results in ironing a per- 
fectly flat and firm ironing-board 
is first requisite. Have the board 
smoothly covered with soft material. 
Above this have an outer covering 
of rather fine cotton cloth, tightly 
drawn and fastened securely in place. 

Embroidered Linen 
To iron small pieces of embroidered 
linen, use a heavy, moderately heated 
iron, and press hard. Iron on the 
wrong side, and always with the threads 
of the linen, pushing the iron from you. 

Drawn Work 
In washing, drawn work shrinks 
more than the plain linen around it; 
and great care must be taken to stretch 
the drawn work, and make the piece 
of uniform size throughout. Lay the 
edge straight with the edge of the 
board, and stretch the drawn work 
in both directions before beginning 
to iron. Iron on the wrong side, 
stretching gently while ironing. 



Dampen, stretch, and iron until the 
article is in perfect shape and abso- 
lutely dry. 

Linen with Lace Edges 
Iron the linen portion first, of pieces 
having lace edges. Then iron the lace 
on the wrong side, and without stretch- 
ing the edge of the linen. 

Folds in Table Linen 
Linen used on sideboard and serv- 
ing-table should be rolled on paste- 
board cylinders made for this purpose. 
Folds are not admissible in any table 
linen save napkins and the lengthwise 
fold through the centre of table-cloths. 

Fringed Napkins 
When folding napkins with a fringed 
edge, gently whip and snap the edges 
to disentangle the fringe, and, when 
ready to iron, repeat the snapping. 
Then lay the napkin on the ironing- 
board, and, with a stiff brush, brush 
out the fringe. Then iron the centre, 
and, when this is dry, the fringe. 
Brush out again after ironing, and, if 
needed, trim with scissors. 

Napkins 
Fold the selvage edges of the nap- 
kin together, and stretch until per- 
fectly straight. Unfold and spread 
out, wrong side up, on the table. With 
a heavy, hot iron press out the napkin. 
Then fold the selvages together, and 
press upon one side. Turn and press 
upon the other side. Fold again, and 
stretch, to have the central fold lie 
directly above the full length of the 
selvages. Press on each side, then 
fold and press, to make a square. Have 
monogram, if present, on the top, when 
finished. 

Table-cloths 
Two persons are really needed to get 
a table-cloth in readiness to iron. Let 

{Concluded on page 149) 



i3» 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 
Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $i. 00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
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LAY SERMONS 

SOME of the best sermons of the 
day, it is said, are preached by 
laymen. Our chief magistrate, 
for instance, gives us noted examples of 
lay preaching. His talks to conven- 
tions of workingmen or a congress of 
mothers are always wise and sensible. 
To the ethical teachings of our Presi- 
dent people must give hearty assent, 
however much they may differ from 
him in his political policies and methods. 
Not long since we had occasion to 
listen to the vacation discourse of a 
clergyman whose words were based upon 
the text, "Ask, and it shall be given 
you ; seek, and ye shall find ; knock, and 
it shall be opened unto you." Verily 
the preacher said, that people in general 



were likely to get what they wanted, 
provided they were willing to pay the 
price thereof. And, surely, nothing is 
plainer or more certain than the fact 
that desire goes before possession. In 
practical, every-day life the man who 
wants money or houses or lands can 
get these things, if he be willing to 
sacrifice and toil with single purpose, 
keeping ever the one end in view. In 
like manner one may acquire education, 
position, or fame. So, too, the preacher 
urged in climax, we are to get religion. 
Now, while all this is very logical and 
true, at this point the thought occurred 
to us : Comparison is often a somewhat 
deceptive form of reasoning, and is 
quite as apt to overreach or underreach 
the point aimed at as it is to hit the 
mark. Do we get religion as we get 
money or other earthly possessions? 
Is the religious sentiment not rather a 
natural, inherent attribute, the birth- 
right of every human being, something, 
like affection, to be cultivated and 
cherished ? No people are found living 
on the earth without the capacity to 
love and worship. Why not cultivate 
religion as friendship is cultivated? 
In order to gain friends, one must be 
friendly. Kindness begets kindness, 
as love begets love. 

The doctrine that religion is some- 
thing suddenly and miraculously gotten, 
it seems to us, has caused seas of trouble, 
endless tears and woe; and the history 
of the race confirms the* thought. If 
we mistake not, true religion and love 
are nearly akin. He who from year to 
year grows fond of the infallible book 
of nature, whose authorship is unques- 
tioned, who learns to love tree and 
flower, bird and beast, and, above all, 
his neighbor as himself, is certainly 
not far from the kingdom of heaven. 
May he not learn to look through nature 
up to nature's ""God? The happiest 
people have been those who have lived 
closest to nature, who have been fond- 
est of outdoor life. 



Editorials 



139 



"Seek, and ye shall find," is a great 
saying, a wonderful truth. Earnest 
want or desire is the initiative of all 
attainment. Surely, it is possible for 
those, who desire, to live clean, whole- 
some lives; for growth in excellence is 
the certain reward of earnest seek- 
ing. To become proficient in craft 
or art or ^any other form of attain- 
ment, we must pursue assiduously our 
ideals. 

But even lay preaching is quite out 
of our line, and we do not intend to tres- 
pass thereon. Healthy, wholesome liv- 
ing, however, and fondness for life_ in 
the open air, are subjects ever of en- 
grossing interest. 



SOMEWHAT in the nature of an 
excuse for touching upon a sub- 
ject so far out of our special line, 
we offer the following from an exchange : 
"As one looks over a great pile of 
'religious' exchanges, one notes a 
©urious tendency in almost all of them 
to slip away from religion to what are 
known as secular matters. The de- 
nominational organ becomes often 
hardly distinguishable from a weekly 
newspaper. If one chose to make an 
epigram, it might be said that our re- 
ligious papers consist partly of things 
no one cares for — sectarian gossip — 
and partly of things everybody knows 
already — current events and literary 
commonplaces. Is this because people 
do not really care for religion or be- 
cause religion is seen to concern all 
departments of life?" 

We think the latter holds that re- 
ligion is seen to concern all departments 
of life. It is not something to be put 
on or off as occasion arises : it is the life 
itself. The Japanese, it seems to us, 
have taught the world a lesson it will 
not be likely soon to forget. What 
race or people in the future can claim 
exclusive right to all the virtues ? Who 
is to draw the line between the civilized 
and the uncivilized races ? 



THE Romans used to punish 
a murderer by chaining to 
him the corpse of his victim. 
Wherever he went, he had to drag this 
dead, putrefying, repulsive thing that 
was once a man. 

In the justice of those old Romans 
there was something decidedly poetic. 

The man dragged behind him the 
result of his wrong deed. 

We all do that. One can't transgress, 
and run away from the result. There 
is no escape from wrong acts. 

You see people every day who are car- 
rying with them the corpse of their sins. 

Tobacco, whiskey, drugs, medicine, 
are all embalming fluids, — poisons. 
Smell them! God help us all! 

Your man who eats too much, 
drinks too much, doesn't exercise 
enough, and breathes too little, — you 
may have him in your family, but the 
individual who isn't on good terms with 
dental floss isn't welcome at my table. 

I have a contempt for the individual 
who sleeps in a stuffy, ill-ventilated 
room. I pity the symposium of pigs' 
feet, sauer kraut, beer, and tobacco that 
calls itself a man. It does not cost 
much to be decent. Fresh air is free. 
No monopoly has so far cornered the 
ozone. Water is cheap, and so is soap. 

Life is just a-dying. We are throw- 
ing off dead matter with every breath. 
Exercise, deep breathing, and bathing 
in water and fresh air eliminate the 
dead matter. 

Get rid of your dead self, I pray you. 
And let this body that you carry with 
you be wholesome, clean, — a fit temple 
of the Divine Spirit. — The Philistine. 



HYGIENIC LIVING 

COMPARATIVELY few people 
seem to realize the full signifi- 
cance of health as a possession. 
And yet health in goodly degree is es- 
sential to prosperity and well-being. 
Without it life is a dismal failure. 
Health and a strenuous life are closely 



140 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



allied. The one implies the other. 
This statement is true: "The beautiful 
word 'health' has been spoken in our 
time with a new accent, and in it are 
stores of practical wisdom, health that 
comes from the brave, cheery spirit, in 
which are the powers of self -renovation. 
The secrets of life are open to those 
who believe in the infinite possibilities 
of human nature and the reaction of 
life upon the soul." 

We have long had hospitals and sana- 
toriums for the care and cure of the 
disabled. Now on every hand are spring- 
ing up health resorts and health farms 
for the recreation and cultivation of 
health. Would that every country 
home were a veritable health resort! 
And such might be the case, did the 
inmates only adapt their ways in life 
to the sole conditions upon which health 
depends. Too often, however, the sana- 
tory conditions of the country home are 
far from hygienic or satisfactory. Nat- 
ure's best gifts are apt to be neglected, 
vitiated, or destroyed. 

In a recent description of a health 
farm near Denver, Col., we find these 
words. Are they not applicable to 
many another locality? 

"It is no difficult task to write an 
apostrophe to health, for every one 
knows that its value is above rubies. 
And yet it is sometimes wantonly 
thrown away. Nature, however, has 
so endowed a favored portion of her 
realm that weary mortals may gather 
there, and have brought back to them 
in a measure the prize they cast away. 
The entire Rocky Mountain region is 
a sanatorium. It has the sun, the 
mountain breeze, the crisp, mild air, 
which combine to invigorate and heal. 
There is no magic in the healing wrought 
by a mountain summer, yet it recalls 
the days when the weak were made 
strong by the laying on of hands. 
Simply marvelous are the transforma- 
tions wrought by it. There is no magic 
in the springs bursting from the moun- 



tain sides, though the ignorant, noting 
their cures, might well ascribe them to 
magical power. This airy empire has 
been the subject of many learned essays, 
but none of them are so convincing as 
the rose returning to the wanest cheek 
or the dragging step once more light 
and buoyant." 

THE season is at hand in which 
subscribers to periodicals are 
accustomed to renew their 
subscriptions and new subscriptions are 
most largely and readily obtained. Like 
other publishers, we desire to enlarge 
our patronage. The consequence is 
natural. The larger the circulation, 
the better the magazine we are able to 
produce; for invariably the value of a 
periodical depends mainly upon its cost, 
— that is, the quality of the labor and 
the expense involved in its production. 
If each of our present subscribers 
will secure among her friends two new 
subscribers to the magazine, she can 
have her own subscription renewed 
for one year free of charge. By so 
doing, she will help herself and at the 
same time help us in our efforts to 
improve the quality and scope of 
the magazine. We look upon this 
method of renewing a subscription as 
an esteemed favor, — the kind of favor 
to which our steadily growing list is 
already much indebted. 

The prospects of the Cooking -School 
Magazine were never fairer. Its rank 
and standing among hi^h-class pub- 
lications was long since established 
and unquestioned. We now aspire 
to enlarge and improve the successive 
issues, to make them not only more 
practically helpful, but even indispen- 
sable in a larger and larger number of 
households. With this end in view, 
together with the good will and co- 
operation of our readers, we hope to 
announce in early issues new and sub- 
stantial gains in more than a single 
line of progress. 




Pasteboard Cylinders for Rolling Laundered Table Linen. See pages 137 and 149 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Lettuce Leaves, Genoese Fashion 

(Appetizer at Dinner or Luncheon) 
Separate the fillets of eight anchovies 
into bits. Add to these two hard- 
cooked eggs cut in tiny cubes. Season 
with paprika, and mix with enough 
mayonnaise dressing to hold the bits 
together. Select eight small, crisp, 
lettuce leaves. (These should not be 
more than two and a half inches in 
length.) Upon each dispose a tea- 
spoonful of the mixture, packing it 
closely, then mask or cover neatly with 
mayonnaise. Decorate with capers, 
chopped beets, and parsley. Serve on 
small plates. If daintily made, these 
are very attractive. 
Anchovies put up in 
oil are ready for use. 
Those preserved in 
salt need be fresh- 
ened by standing 
some hours in milk or 
water. 

South Chatham 
Cheese 

Take milk that has 
been drawn twelve 
hours. Remove the 



cream, and set in a warm place to 
thicken. Do not heat the milk to a 
higher temperature than blood heat. 
When the whey has separated from 
the casein, turn the milk into a cheese- 
cloth to drain, and, when well drained, 
mix salt with the curd and set it, still 
inside the cloth, into a hoop placed on a 
large plate. Put a round board that fits 
easily inside the hoop above the curd, 
and place weights on the board. In from 
six to twelve hours remove the cheese 
from the hoop. Cream may be added 
before setting the curd to press or the 
cheese may be made of milk from which 
none of the cream has been taken. 




South Chatham Cheese in the Hoop and after removal 



142 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Timbale for Consomme, Countess 
Fashion 
Pound in a mortar one-fourth a cup 
(well pressed down) of cooked chicken 




Cauliflower Scalloped with Cheese. Page 149 

breast and a dozen blanched almonds, 
adding from time to time a tablespoon- 
ful of cream, until three-fourths a cup 
of cream in all has been used. Press 
through a sieve, then add to the yolks 
of three eggs and one whole egg, beaten 
until well mixed. Season with salt and 
pepper, and also, if desired, with a 
grating of nutmeg. Turn the mixture 
into small timbale moulds, thoroughly 
buttered, and cook, as custard, on several 



Consomme, Autumn Fashion 

Add to each plate of consomme, at 
serving, four or five, each, tiny cooked 
flowerets of cauliflower, asparagus tips, 
half an inch in length, peas 
or flageolet, and half -inch 
bits of sweet red pepper. 
Tiny, chicken quenelles may 
be added at discretion. 

Baked Leg of Lamb 
Remove the caul usually 
skewered about a leg of 
lamb. Trim off superfluous 
fat, wipe carefully, and rub 
over with salt, pepper, if approved, and 
flour. Set to cook in a moderate 
oven, basting each ten minutes with 
bacon or chicken fat, or with fat from 
the top of a dish of soup. Bake 
about an hour and a half. Serve with 
mint jelly and hominy cups holding 
currant jelly. Cook the hominy in boil- 
ing salted water, shape when partly 
cool, egg- and-crumb, and fry in deep 
fat. 




Baked Leg of Lamb with Mint Jelly 



folds of paper and surrounded with boil- 
ing water. When cold, unmould, cut in 
slices and serve in consomme with cooked 
asparagus tips, peas, or flageolet. 



Mint Jelly (Miss Chandler) 
Let one tablespoonful of granulated 
gelatine stand for some time in cold 
water to cover. Boil one cup of gran- 



Seasonable Recipes 



H3 



ulated sugar and one cup of vinegar 
until thickened slightly (about five min- 
utes after boiling begins). Add the 
softened gelatine and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
and stir until the gelatine is dissolved. 
Then add three-fourths a cup of mint 
leaves, chopped fine. Set the dish into 
another of ice and water, and stir oc- 
casionally until the mixture begins to 
thicken, then turn into a mould or 
jelly glass, and set aside to become firm. 
When turned from the mould, garnish 
the dish with the tips from two or three 
stalks of mint. 

Egyptian Salad (Luncheon or Sup- 
per Salad) 
Have three or four ears of cold, boiled 
corn. With a sharp knife score the 
rows of kernels lengthwise of the cob. 
Then press out the pulp, leaving the 
hulls on the cob. Mix the pulp with 



two tablespoonfuls of chopped red 
pepper, and mix the whole with may- 
onnaise dressing. Put by the table- 
spoonful into cup-shaped, heart leaves of 




Egyptian Salad 

lettuce. Decorate each with cold, cooked 
eggs and fillets of boneless anchovies. 

Egg Plant Fried in Batter 
Cut the egg plant in halves, length- 
wise, then cut in slices half an inch 




Egg Plant Fried in Batter 



an equal measure of cold, boiled rice 
(let the rice be boiled, so as to leave 
the kernels whole and distinct). Add 



thick. Pare off the purple skin, then 
dip the slices in batter, and fry to a 
golden brown in deep fat. Often the 



144 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



slices are sprinkled with salt and piled 
one above another to stand for an 
hour. This draws out moisture, which 



with one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt. 
Let stand an hour or more before 
using. 




Tomato Salad, Poinsetta Style 



must be removed with a cloth before 
the slices are dipped in the batter. 
Serve as an accompaniment to roast 
beef, mutton or lamb, broiled steak 
or chops. If preferred, the slices may 
be egged-and-crumbed. They may be 
sauted instead of fried. 

Fritter Batter for Egg Plant 
Beat an egg without separating the 




Tomatoes, Du Barry Style 

white and yolk. Add half a cup of 
milk, and stir gradually into three- 
fourths a cup of flour, sifted again 



Tomatoes, Du Barry Style 
Peel a tomato for each person to be 
served. Cut out a piece round the 
stem of each, and scoop out a portion 
of the pulp. Sprinkle inside with salt, 
and set upside down in the refrigerator. 
When ready to serve, fill the open spaces 
with cold, cooked cauliflower. Put a 
spoonful of mayonnaise on each, and 
serve at once. 

Tomato Salad, 
Poinsetta Style 
S e 1 e 4 c t round, 
smooth tomatoes. 
Take one in the hand, 
keeping the stem end 
down. A close ex- 
amination will show 
light lines running 
underneath the skin 
from the centre out- 
wards. These sepa- 
rate the tomato into 
sections, each of which contain seeds. 
Cut through the skin along these lines 
from the centre to about an inch from 



Seasonable Recipes 



45 



the stem end, then cut through the 
pulp underneath to the depth of one- 
fourth an inch. With a sharp-pointed, 
French knife peel each section of skin 
from the pulp below, 
then lift the pulp in 
triangular sections 
about one-fourth an 
inch thick. These, if 
cut properly, will be of 
the same shape and 
size as the sections of 
skin, and each will 
form a circle resem- 
bling petals of a flower. 
Let chill thoroughly in 
the refrigerator. Then, 
when ready to serve, 
cut out the hard centre at the stem end 
without injury to the shape of the 
flower. Season with salt and pepper; 
fill the open space beneath with mayon- 
naise, and set the tomato on an indi- 
vidual plate. Put heart leaves of let- 
tuce around the outer row of petals, 
bending them over the lettuce. Turn 
back the second row of petals, and fill 
the centre with mayonnaise. Serve as 
a salad course at luncheon or dinner. 

Potato Salad 
Chop very fine half a small, young, 



same size (less than half an inch in 
diameter). Mix the potato, pepper, 
and onion with five or six tablespoon- 
fuls of oil. Mix very thoroughly, turn- 




Potato Salad 

ing the potato over and over and add- 
ing more oil, if needed, to make each 
piece of potato glisten with oil. Shake in 
a teaspoonf ul of salt and a dash or two of 
paprika, while mixing in the oil. Then 
add three or four tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, one tablespoonful at a time, 
mixing in each before the next is added. 
Rub the salad bowl with the cut side 
of a clove of garlic. Put in the salad, 
shaping it into a firm mound. Set this 
aside in the refrigerator for an hour or 
longer. Then cover or mask with 
mayonnaise dressing. With capers or 




Popovers. Page 146 



and mild onion and half a green pepper- 
pod. These should be as fine as if 
they had been grated. Cut six cold 
boiled potatoes into small cubes of the 



sliced olives divide the mound into six 
sections. Fill in these with sifted yolks 
(cooked), chopped whites of eggs, and 
chopped beets. ' Decorate the sections 



46 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



in contrasting colors. Set a tuft of 
lettuce hearts in the top, and garnish 
the edge with tiny gherkins, cut in very 



wT\3S? m Jlfl 




"3jpjC£ a €p fa 


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i 



into small timbale moulds thoroughly 
buttered. Set the moulds in a pan, 
on several folds of paper, surround with 
boiling water, and 
bake until the mixt- 
ure is firm, but with- 
out allowing the water 
to boil. Serve, turned 
from the moulds and 
surrounded with to- 
mato sauce. 



South Chatham Cheese, shaped in Balls, with 
Serve as Sweet Course at Luncheon 

thin slices nearly to the stem end, and 
spread to represent fans. 

Cheese Timbales 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, half 
a teaspoonful of salt, one -fourth a 
teaspoonful of paprika, and half a cup, 
each, of cream, milk, and white stock. 
In this melt half a pound of grated 
cheese (cheese grated from the shell of 
an Edam cheese is good for this dish). 



Red Currant Jelly 
or Dinner 




Cheese Timbales 

Pour this mixture over four yolks of 
eggs and three whole eggs, beaten until 
well mixed. Mix thoroughly and turn 



Popovers 

Beat two eggs, 
without separating 
whites and yolks, un- 
til light. Add two 
cups of milk, then con- 
tinue beating with an 
egg-beater while two 
cups of sifted flour, 
sifted again with half 
a teaspoonful of salt, are gradually 
beaten into the liquid mixture. Butter 
an iron muffin-pan, one with round cups 
preferred, and put a level teaspoonful of 
butter into each cup, then turn in the bat- 
ter, filling the cups two-thirds full. Bake 
in a hot oven about thirty-five minutes. 
The recipe makes twelve large popovers. 

Marmalade Tart 
Line a pie plate with pastry. Fill 
with apple or peach marmalade. Cover 
the top with rings cut 
from pared-and-cored 
apples, sprinkle with 
lemon *juice, and 
dredge lightly with 
sugar. Bake about half 
an hour. Serve hot, 
plain or with whipped 
cream or with ice-cream. 

Plunkets 

(To be eaten with Ices) 

Cream one cup of 
butter, and gradually beat in one cup 
of sugar. Beat the yolks of six eggs 
until very light, the whites until dry. 



Seasonable Recipes 



J 47 



Then pour the yolks over the whites, 
and cut and fold the two together. 
Pass through a sieve together, twice, half 
a cup of flour, three- 
fourths a cup of corn- 
starch, and two level 
teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing-powder. Add the 
eggs to the butter and 
sugar, a little at a 
time. Then add the 
dry ingredients and a 
teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. Bake in in- 
dividual tins. After 
baking, sift powdered 
sugar over the tops. 
Two cups of flour, 
scant measure, may 
replace the flour and cornstarch given 
in the recipe. 

Honey Cakes 
Heat one cup of buckwheat honey 
or three-fourths a cup of clover honey 
and one-fourth a cup of New Orleans 
molasses to the boiling-point. v Skim, if 
needed. Add one-fourth a cup of but- 
ter, and, when cooled to a lukewarm 
temperature, stir in two cups of sifted 
flour, scant 
measure. Let 
stand over 
night or 
several days, 
but not until 
soured. When 
ready to use, 
beat in the 
grated yellow 
rind of a 
lemon, two 
tablespoonfuls 
of lemon 
juice, two 
ounces of 
blanched al- 
monds, chopped fine, and half a tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in a table- 
spoonful of cold water. Bake in little 



drum-shaped tins (the recipe will make 
about fifteen). When cold, dip into a 
cup of sugar and half a cup of water, 




Marmalade Tart 

cooked five minutes 
nearly cold. 



and stirred until 



Sandwiches, Trilby Style (Eleanor 
S. McKenzie) 
Make mayonnaise dressing, season- 
ing it very high with paprika. Cut 
young Bermuda onions in very thin 
slices, such as will barely hold together, 
or chop the onion very fine. Spread 
Graham, rve, or entire- wheat bread, 




oney 



Cake 



:s Plunkets 

prepared for sandwiches, very sparingly, 
with butter. Then on half the slices 
lay or spread the onion. Sprinkle 



148 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



lightly with salt and paprika, then add 
mayonnaise dressing, another sprink- 
ling of onion, salt and pepper, then 
cover with buttered bread. 




Hot Apple Croutons 

Hot Apple Croutons 

Cut out rounds or squares from 
slices of stale sponge or hasty cake. 
Butter a baking-pan, and on it dispose 
the pieces of cake. Sift the pulp of 
two baked or stewed apples. Add 
two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar 
and the beaten yolk of an egg. Then 



Set half a blanched almond on the 
top of each, sprinkle with granulated 
sugar, and set into a hot oven for a 
moment or two to brown the tops. 

Serve for a sweet course at 

luncheon or dinner. 

Cream Cheese-and-Parsley 
Sandwiches (for Lunch- 
eon Basket, Tea Table, 
Evening Companies, 

etc.). 

Wash the parsley, shake and 
dry in a cloth, then remove 
the stems, and chop the leaves 
very fine. Add a tablespoon- 
ful of the chopped parsley to half 
a cup of cream cheese. Add also a 
generous quantity of paprika, and mix 
the whole thoroughly. Spread upon 
slices of bread prepared for sandwiches, 
or upon butter thins or other wafers. 
Press together, and serve as soon as 
possible. Decorate the serving-plate 
with parsley. The cheese mixture may 




Small Spanish Wine Keg filled with Olives 

fold the mixture into the white of an be shaped into balls, and served with 
egg, beaten dry. Dispose this on the the crackers or plain bread-and-butter 
pieces of cake (bread may be used), sandwiches. 



Seasonable Recipes 



149 



Boiled Cauliflower 
Let a head of cauliflower stand, head 
downward, in a dish of salted water 
half an hour, then trim off discolored 
leaves and tie in a piece of cheese-cloth. 
Set to cook, stem end down, in boiling 
salted water. When the cauliflower is 
tender, — fifteen to thirty minutes ac- 
cording to size, — remove from the water 
and the cloth. Serve at once with 
cream, Bechamel, cheese, tomato, or 
Hollandaise sauce. Cold cauliflower is 
served with French dressing, vinai- 
grette, or mayonnaise sauce, or with 
sauce tartare. 

Cauliflower Scalloped with Cheese 
For a cooked cauliflower of medium 
size make a sauce of three level table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, a 
scant half teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, and a cup and a half of 
rich milk. Butter an au gratin dish. 
In it dispose the cauliflower, separated 
into flowerets, and the stem of each 
trimmed to a point. Dissolve half a 
cup of cheese in the sauce, then pour 
the sauce over the cauliflower, and 
sprinkle the whole quite thickly with 
cracker crumbs mixed with melted 
butter. Set the dish into a hot oven, 
to brown the crumbs. 

Broiled Potatoes 
Cut cold boiled potatoes, white or 
sweet, lengthwise, in slices three-eighths 
an inch thick. Dip these in melted 
butter, sprinkle lightly with salt, and 
broil (use a wire, hinged broiler) over 
a bed of bright coals or under a gas 
flame until lightly browned on each 
side. Spread with^maitre d'hotel but- 
ter, and servf at once. 

Maitre d'Hotel Butter (for Broiled 

Fish, Meat, and Vegetables) 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter. 

Add half a teaspoomul of salt, a dash 

of pepper, half a tablespoonful of fine- 



chopped parsley, and three-fourths a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, very 
slowly. The heat of the fish, meat, 
etc., will melt the butter. 

Hollandaise Potatoes 
Cut pared potatoes in pieces like the 
section of an orange. Steam or boil 
until tender, then drain, and pour 
maitre d'hotel butter over them. 



{Concluded from page 137) 
each take an end of the cloth, and see 
that the hem on one side lies directly 
over the hem on the other side, with 
the selvages coming together. Then 
stretch the cloth, gathering it a little 
in the hands at the ends, if needed. 
Make sure that the selvages are even, 
then the lengthwise fold will be even. 
Put a table back or beyond the iron- 
ing-board. Spread one end of the 
cloth on the ironing-board, and dis- 
pose the rest on the table. Let the 
iron rest on the cloth (do not raise it 
from the cloth), and move it up and 
down with the warp. Move it slowly 
and gently, until the wrinkles are re- 
moved, making sure that the selvages 
and hems are exactly together. Then 
press hard and move quickly. Con- 
tinue until the cloth is nearly dry. 
Then iron a new portion in the same 
way, until nearly to the end of the 
cloth. Then make the hems straight 
and even, and iron from the hems 
toward the ironed portion, to remove 
any fulness that may have accumu- 
lated. Now turn the cloth, and iron 
upon the other side until dry. Lay 
the paper roll on the end of the cloth 
next you. See that it is even, then 
roll a little, pressing the linen, with the 
iron, in front of the roll. Lift the 
cloth frequently, to keep it straight. 
Many prefer a clean sheet spread upon 
the floor under the ironing-board to 
the extra table behind the board. Use 
a heavy iron. 



Menus for a Week in October 

" STfjc care of a famtlg bias the earliest of tfje arts that leti to a refineD civilisation ; ano, if tlje 
nation is to be rjreserbeU, it bill be tije last to expire/' 



< 
Q 

& 
P 
H 
< 

CO 



breakfast 

Broiled Bacon. Eggs Cooked in the Shell. 

Broiled Tomatoes and Green Pepper. 

Green Corn Fritters. Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Baked Leg of Lamb (Yearling). 

Hominy Cups with Black Currant Jelly. 

Mint Jelly. 

Egg Plant Fried in Batter. 

Apples Baked with Almonds. 

Whipped Cream. Coffee. 

Supper 

Oyster Stew. Pickles. Crackers. 

Oatmeal Macaroons. Cocoa (Children). 



breakfast 

Haddock Fish Balls. Pickles. 

Eggs Cooked in the Shells. 

Entire-wheat Baking-powder Biscuit. 

Apple Butter. Coffee. Cocoa. 

'Dinner 

Broiled Sirloin Steak. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 

Boiled Cauliflower, Cream Sauce. 

Squash Pie. Tea. 

Supper 

Succotash. Rye Biscuit. 

Jellied Apples, Cream. 

Cocoa. Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Chipped Beef, Frizzled. 

Baked Potatoes. 

Fried Hominy, Caramel Syrup. 

Dry Toast. Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Cold Roast Lamb, Sliced Thin. 

Candied Sweet Potatoes en Casserole. 

Tomato Salad. 
Apple Dumplings, Cream and Sugar. 

Supper 

Rye-meal Muffins. Sifted Apple Sauce. 

Cottage Cheese. Sugar Cookies. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Bacon. Sauted Bananas. 

French Fried Potatoes. 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit. 

Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Corned Beef. Boiled Cabbage. 

Boiled Potatoes. Celery Salad. 

Bread Pudding, with Currant Jelly and 

Meringue. 

Black Coffee. 

Supper 

Rice Cooked with Tomatoes. 

Cold Cauliflower, French Dressing. 

Baked Pears. Tea. 



'Breakfast 
Hashed Lamb on Toast. 

Bananas Sauted. 
Twin Mountain Muffins. 

Coffee. Cocoa. 

'Dinner 

Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

Boiled Onions, Buttered. 

Baked Beets. 

Apple Pie. Cheese. Coffee. 

Supper 

Potato Salad. Toast. 

Hot Baked Apples, Sugar, Cream. 

Sponge Cake. Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Omelet. 

Baked or Broiled Tomatoes. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Scalloped Oysters. Cold Slaw. 
Boston Brown Bread. 
Cheese. 
Grapes. 



Wafers. 
Black Coffee. 



Supper 

Corned Beef, Potato, and Green Pepper 

Hash. 

Pickled Beets. 

Graham Muffins. 

Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Grapes. 
Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin. 
White Hashed Potatoes. 

Yeast Rolls. 

Corn-meal Griddle Cakes. 

Coffee 



'Dinner 

Baked Fish, Bread Stuffing 

Tomato Sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Scalloped Cabbage. 

Hot Apple Pie, Cream. 

Black Coffee. 



Supper 

Succotash with Pork. 

Shortcake" of Waffles and 

Peach Preserves. 

Triscuit, Milk. 

Tea. 



October Menus without Meat or Fish 



" £fjere is no higher life than that tiebutrtr to the making of a home tfjat 
of lobf, cleanliness, orUcr, anti the oest ano most cheerful service." 



las in it the oibine element* 



'Breakfast 

Green Corn Fritters. 

Sliced Tomatoes. 

Toast. Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Egg Croquettes. 

Late String Beans, Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 

Tomatoes with Cauliflower, Mayonnaise 

Dressing. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 



Supper 

Tomato Rabbit. 
Gingerbread. 



Tea. 



breakfast 

Corn-meal Mush, Milk. 

Baked Apples. South Chatham Cheese, 

Cream. Date Muffins. Coffee. 

c Dinner 

Cream-of-Lima-Bean Soup, Croutons. 

Corn Custard. Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Rice Pudding with Meringue. 

Coffee. 

Supper ■ 

Celery-and-Nut Salad. 

Rye Bread and Butter. 

Apples Baked in Casserole (Jellied), Cream. 

Tea. 



Egg 



"Breakfast 

Baked Sweet Potatoes, Butter. 

Parsley Omelet. 

Rye-meal Muffins or Waffles. 

Cocoa. Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Plant, Stuffed with Nuts, etc. (Baked). 
Lima Beans, Buttered. 
Celery-and-Apple Salad. 
Cherry Souffle, Boiled Custard. 

Supper 

Cream-of -Celery Soup. 

Browned Crackers. Cottage Cheese. 

Apple Sauce, Cooked Slowly in Casserole. 

Cocoa. Tea. 



breakfast 

Broiled Bananas. 

Poached Eggs with Creamed Celery. 

Toast. Yeast Muffins. Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Nut Loaf, Brown Sauce. 

Squash. Scalloped Onions and Tomatoes 

Noisette Bread. 

Spinach- and -Egg Salad. 

Grape Sherbet. Wafers. 

Supper 

Lima Beans, Hollandaise Style. 

Noisette Bread and Butter. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes and Celery. 

Wafers. Apple Sauce. Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Grapes. 

Broiled Tomatoes and Green Peppers. 

Cream Toast. Popovers. 

Coffee. Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

Cheese Timbales, Tomato Sauce. 

Egg Plant Fritters. 

Boston Baked Beans in Salad. 

Entire-wheat Biscuit. 

Hot Apple Pie, Cream. 

Supper 
Eggs in Baked Potatoes. Dry Toast. 

Apples Baked with Almonds, Cream. 
Tea. Cocoa. 



"Breakfast 

Apples Baked with Dates, Cream. 

Nut Muffins. 

Coffee or Cocoa. 

"Dinner 

New York Baked Beans. 

Boston Brown Bread. 

Scalloped Onions and Tomatoes. 

Squash Pie. Coffee. 

Supper 

Cold Cauliflower or Cabbage, Mayonnaise 

Dressing. 

Rye Bread and Butter. 

Baked Pears. Oatmeal Macaroons. 

Tea. 



"Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Sliced 

Bananas, Cream. 

Doughnuts. 

Coffee. 



Dinner 

Corn Chowder. 

Tomato Custard. 

Boston Brown^Bread. 

Cabbage Salad. 

Edam Cheese. Nut Wafers. 

Coffee. 



Supper 

Creamed Celery on Toast. 

Poached Eggs. 

Cookies. 

Cocoa. 



After Breakfast Chat 

By Janet M. Hill 



' « np HE best things are nearest. . . . Then do not grasp at the stars, but do life's plain, common 
J. work as it comes, certain that daily duties and daily bread are the sweetest things of life." 
"Beautiful home-making is the first and best career of any woman who is not an ex- 
ceptional genius in some particular direction." 



TO most of us the best part of 
the summer's outing is the 
return to our own firesides 
and the pleasures and joys of house- 
keeping. By those who are interested 
in any line of work — even housekeeping — 
every little thing that comes up during 
the summer vacation that has any 
bearing on the special subject in hand 
is carefully treasured; and the summer 
vacation, with its change of locality, 
mode of life, and chance association 
with new people, furnishes rich material 
that we are desirous of making over 
and adapting to our needs. Thus it is 
that with enthusiasm born of knowl- 
edge, as well as renewed health, the 
home-coming is looked forward to with 
pleasure, even though the rich autumn 
days in the country hold gracious 
promises to all that linger to enjoy 
them. 

The subjects of conversation which 
probably most fully engross the atten- 
tion of women in the average summer 
colony are clothes and food. 

If we have learned anything of value 
regarding clothes and the way to wear 
them, anything that will add to the 
appearance or comfort of ourselves or 
families, or that will lessen the labor 
of keeping a family well dressed, let 
us treasure it; for personal appear- 
ance lies at the foundation of all real 
self-respect. An ill-dressed woman is 
never at ease and so never at her best, 



whereas the consciousness that one is 
well dressed gives an assurance and 
courage that will enable her to face 
almost anything that may arise. 

But an article of apparel or a style 
of dressing the hair eminently becom- 
ing and suitable to one individual or 
to a certain occasion may not be ap- 
propriate to us on any occasion; and 
thought needs be given to something 
more than our mere liking of the idea 
or thing before we can adopt it and 
make it our own. If this be true in 
the matter of dress, how much more 
applicable is the idea when we are con- 
sidering food ? Your neighbor at table, 
a quiet, ladylike woman, whom you 
much admire, through some defect of 
constitution (probably a derangement 
of the heart), can take but little liquid. 
She drinks water but infrequently and 
in small quantity, at table she discards 
soup and milk. You call the attention 
of your active golf-playing daughters to 
this habit, and suggest that the quan- 
tity of fruit punch, lemonade, ginger 
ale, water, and milk in which they are 
constantly indulging is unnecessary, 
and savors quite of vulgarity. 

The modern girl is quite liberally 
endowed with common sense; and, if 
her mother is to remain to her a figure 
in the foreground, she needs have a 
reason for the faith that is in her, and 
not advise indiscriminately as to what 
is and is not suitable in food. 



Some October Vegetables 



l S3 



The complaint is often heard that 
too much is expected of the modern 
woman, and that one cannot know 
everything; but this cry comes from 
those whose main resource is cards, 
rather than from earnest women who 
have in life some definite object to 
work for as a family or a calling. 

Earnest, sincere women, in their new 
enthusiasm, will look into the why and 
wherefore of things, and reason out 
why Mrs. A. has been advised by her 
physician to eat or reject certain ar- 
ticles of food. She will also try to 
prepare satisfactorily certain articles 
of food which others have praised, but 
for which she always has held an aver- 
sion. To be sure, these are only little 
things, but they may become stepping- 
stones to more important matters. 

The vacationist who has not returned 
home more tolerant of her neighbor's 
views, who has not learned to culti- 
vate an appreciation of the good in 
those whose training and mode of life 
differ greatly from her own, has lost 
one of the best and most broadening 
influences of the summer outing. 

Some October Vegetables 
Two of the vegetables, tomatoes and 
corn, shown in the illustration on our 
cover, are universal favorites and de- 
servedly so. In some sections of the 
country sweet corn, by succession of 
plantings, is kept in the market till 
Christmas ; but in very many localities 
the season is much too short. Think 
of the wealth of dishes that may be 
made from fresh corn ; and it is well-nigh 
as valuable, though its pristine sweetness 
be lacking, after it has been canned. 

During the season boiled corn or 
steamed corn is an every- day item of 
fare; but unhusked corn cooked in the 
smouldering bed of a camp-fire is less 
common, though it be much more de- 
lectable. But, since the .. chance of 
turning aborigines for a season and of 
cooking in the open is not vouchsafed 



to all, let me suggest that you try cook- 
ing corn, freshly gathered from the 
stalks, under the flame in the lower 
oven of your gas range. Strip off the 
outer husks, loosen up the inner layers, 
and remove the silk. Then replace the 
inner husks, and set the corn beneath 
the flame. Cook from half to three- 
fourths an hour, or until the husks and 
corn are well browned. Frequent turn- 
ing is essential, if the corn is to be 
browned uniformly. Bat as soon as 
cooked, first spreading the browned 
kernels liberally with butter, and add- 
ing a dash of salt and black pepper. 

Corn on the cob is for days when the 
kernels are "in the milk." After the 
outer skin of the kernels has hardened 
a little, score the rows lengthwise, then 
press out the pulp, and make use of it 
in fritters, griddle-cakes, souffle, cus- 
tard, timbales, soup, succotash, chow- 
der, and salad. Each of these dishes 
is well worth a trial, and many of 
them will be called for again and again. 
In all these dishes, save griddle-cakes, 
variety and additional flavor may be 
secured by combining the corn with 
tomatoes. You have never tried such 
a combination? Then do so at once, 
beginning with a broiled tomato above 
a green corn fritter. This is a dish 
from the land of blue grass, one of the 
homes of good cookery. 

Tomatoes came originally from Mex- 
ico, where the scarlet of tomato and 
of pepper are companions in many a 
dish. Tomatoes are an all-the-year 
vegetable, in many localities. Those 
grown in hot-houses supplement the 
short season, in less favored lands. In 
some sections of New England, late 
frosts in spring and early frosts in au- 
tumn make the season of growth very 
short, and the fruit must be plucked 
from the vines in a green state and ex- 
posed to the sunlight until the charac- 
teristic red tint of the ripe tomato is 
secured. Such tomatoes bear no com- 
parison in texture or flavor to those 



54 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



ripened in the natural way. They will 
answer for cooked dishes, but not for 
an incomparable, fresh, tomato salad. 
Year after year we have given tomato 
salads in these pages, and they have 
been a delight to the eye and delectable 
to the taste; but in the tomato salad, 
poinsetta style, given in our pages this 



month, the climax in tomato salads 
has been reached. Beyond this we do 
not expect to go. Select perfectly ripe, 
round, smooth tomatoes, follow the 
directions given in the recipe, explicitly, 
and enjoy first the picture, then the 
reality. The recipe comes from Ten- 
nessee, but it has been christened anew. 



Concerning Company 

By Ethel Williams 



AS a rule, the chief anxiety of a 
/\ hostess seems to be how she 
i \ shall feed her guest. Now, while 
food is necessary and good, it is not the 
most important thing in life ; and a visi- 
tor ought to care more for the society 
of her hostess than for an elaborate des- 
sert or complicated dish. It is, of course, 
only natural to wish to give our friends 
the best ; but let it be the best of our- 
selves rather than of material things. 

The most perfect hospitality I ever 
experienced was that of a college chum 
who, some years after graduating, 
managed to get three classmates 
together for a couple of days at 
her summer home. On her way up 
from the station she said : "The market 
here is not very good, and Hannah is 
the plainest of plain cooks; but we 
will just eat what she provides, for 
I am not going to waste any time on 
food while you are here. I want to 
spend every minute enjoying you, for 
we may never be all together again." 
So we had an abundance of simple 
food, and were perfectly happy in see- 
ing each other. We four have never 
been together again, and it is probable 
that we shall never have such another 
opportunity, but we look back on that 
two days, and feel that we have had 
one perfect visit. The guest who is 
worthy of being entertained at all comes 
to see you, not to eat your food or to 



upset your ordinary ways of life. The 
tendency is to make it all too much a 
matter of show rather than of friendship. 
It is no wonder that our maids 
do not receive the announcement of 
approaching company with enthusiasm. 
Why, indeed, should they? All the 
trouble falls to their share, and none 
of the enjoyment. Moreover, much of 
the trouble is quite unnecessary. I 
know a family where all the "waiting 
on table" ordinarily required of the 
one maid is to remove the dishes be- 
tween the roast and the dessert, with 
no more uniform than a clean apron 
over her calico dress; but, when there 
is company, behold a startling change ! 
The usual plain dinner of two courses 
is expanded by the addition of soup, 
salad, and coffee, and the maid, hustled 
into some sort of black garments, has 
to cook the meal, and also serve it, as 
if she were "second girl" instead of 
"general housework." Is it any won- 
der that company is not considered an 
unmixed blessing in that kitchen? 
It is delightful to have our meals nicely 
served by a well-trained waitress, but, if 
we are not accustomed to so doing every 
day, any departure from our usual 
methods is sure to prove unsatisfactory. 
It is largely our own fault if we make 
hospitality a burden to ourselves and 
others. It ought to be the source of 
the purest pleasure. 




Home Ideas 



AND 



Economies 




Contributions to this department will be gladly 
reasonable rates. 

Hiu), Hawaii. 
July 6, 1905. 

My dear Mrs. Hill, — I wonder how 
you would enjoy keeping house here, 
after your fine Eastern markets? I 
gave an engagement luncheon one day 
last week, and there had not been a 
lime or a lemon in town for three weeks. 
There was no cocktail sauce in town, 
either, and I could not substitute 
orange or pineapple juice for an oyster 
cocktail, as I did elsewhere. This is 
just one sample. I have to send away 
for paprika, as it moulds so quickly 
grocers will not keep it any more. I 
keep it tucked away in the safe, sealed 
with sealing wax, to circumvent the 
ants as well as the mould. Did you 
ever live where it was a perpetual war- 
fare with ants and cockroaches? 

Celery and cauliflower do not do well 
at our low elevation, but they grow 
well at the volcano, and we have friends 
who sometimes supply us. We are 
more fortunate than most in being able 
to have things come up on ice from 
Honolulu once a week. We have had 
strawberries from there ever since 
December. Two old Chinamen here 
raise strawberries, small and sour, but 
in such limited quantities, owing to 
the mynah bird and Japanese beetles, 
that the price is very high. However, 
there is a strawberry guava, which can 
be utilized in many ways, where only 
juice is required. We sometimes make 
them into shortcake, but the large 
seeds nearly break one's teeth. There 
is also the akala berry, by some called 
the raspberry, that makes a nice short- 
cake, helped out with pineapple, ba- 



received. Accepted items will be paid for at 

nanas, and oranges. The juice makes 
a delicious milk sherbet, and, strange 
to say, it tastes like raspberry, while 
the fruit itself has no such taste. We 
can get three and four pound pine- 
apples for ten cents. Figs are not al- 
ways in the market, but you can get 
them from Portuguese at almost any 
season. We have mangoes and alli- 
gator pears, Isabella grapes, and guava s 
now. The Portuguese grow almost all 
the grapes, and nothing but Isabellas, so 
grapes are imported. They come prin- 
cipally from California. We have ba- 
nanas all the year around. Like pine- 
apples, they grow themselves. This rec- 
ipe, so far as I know, is original : — 

Bananas au Caramel 

PEEL three bananas, and cut them 
into strips. Lay these into a bak- 
ing-dish, dredged with a tablespoon- 
ful of flour and a teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon. Put in two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, cut in little bits, and sprinkle 
with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a 
little salt. Pour in half a cup of boiling 
water. Bake quickly. Serve hot as a 
vegetable or cold with cream as a dessert. 

Are nuts in recipes weighed before 
or after shelling? If the latter, it 
would take several pounds to make a 
quarter of a pound. Nuts spoil so 
quickly here. 

Fish is another thing you would ex- 
pect us to have in abundance, but there 
are so few varieties white people can 
eat that fish is always high and scarce. 
If you are interested in the islands, I 
will see if Mr. McKay has not some 



i 5 6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



tourist literature that might interest 
you. It certainly is a fascinating place. 
The climate is more or less enervating, 
and one can do nothing, and keep most 
beautifully busy, too. I wish I could 
send you a slice of to-day, — one of our 
perfect days, — so that you might sam- 
ple Hawaii Nei. 

My personal cooking is limited to 
Chinese New Year's and when the boy 
is sick. He is an ideal servant, and I 
have had him nearly four years. He 
can read some English, but not a 
written recipe. I mean written in a 
paragraph; but, if all the ingredients 
are specified at the top, he can worry 
it out. But I can read him the most 
complicated recipe, and he not only 
will make it then, but I will never have 
to tell him again. As for myself, no 
matter how often I make, a thing, I 
have to have the book in front of me. 
Sincerely yours, 



I enclose recipe direct from Paris, 
France, which is highly valued as an 
appetizer. The piquant flavor is re- 
tained as long as the relish lasts. 

Tomato Relish 

PEEL, chop, and drain a peck of 
half -ripe tomatoes. Add two cups 
of chopped celery, six onions, and 
six mango peppers, chopped fine (re- 
move the seeds from the peppers be- 
fore chopping them), one pound of 
brown sugar, two quarts of vinegar, 
one cup of salt, two ounces of mustard 
seed, and a little nutmeg. Mix thor- 
oughly, and store in jars. This relish 
will keep indefinitely without cooking 
or heating. Mrs. H. M. V. 

THROUGH the hot weather it 
looks cool and attractive to use 
green vine leaves under fresh fruit, 
such as currants served on the stem, 
frosted in sugar, or unsweetened, if 
fully ripe. Under Neufchatel cheese 
tender vine leaves are pretty also. 



When the autumn turns the maple 
leaves brilliant red, they may be used 
at a luncheon party, not only for table 
decoration, but upon the salad plates; 
for instance, under a celery and nut 
salad, or one of potato and cucumber, 
or any other salad that will contrast 
well. 

Women Grocers 

NOW that groceries come largely 
in packages, making the handling 
and delivery far less troublesome, 
it is surprising that women left to sup- 
port themselves, or young girls desir- 
ing to start in business, do not go 
into the retail grocery business. Often 
the house which adjoins the store 
is a comfortable apartment where a 
widow could have her half-grown chil- 
dren near her. Many business places 
are started, at first, as a branch of some 
well-known firm, to which the larger 
orders are sent by 'phone. A refined 
class of customers could be suited by a 
woman who was herself familiar with 
household needs and methods. Many 
men and youths know only what is in 
demand, and, unless observing in their 
own home, know nothing of the why 
and wherefore, and consequently think 
their patrons "cranky," etc. 

Women now send so many home 
products to groceries for sale, instead of 
to Woman's Exchanges, that it would 
seem as if, in running a grocery store, 
they could select good home cookery, 
and make it a special feature. For in- 
stance, bread, rolls, currant and raisin 
breads, doughnuts and crullers, cakes 
and cookies, and at some stores pies, 
preserves, and pickles, and even may- 
onnaise dressing and salted nuts, are 
supplied from a home kitchen. 

In suburban places, where a general 
business is done, and tinware and 
china, etc., could be on sale, it seems 
as if women could find a work to do. 
In winter they could demonstrate cer- 
tain dishes and sell the necessary gro- 



Home Ideas and Economies 



57 



ceries, also moulds and spoons and 
strainers. This would apply where 
a mother and daughters took the busi- 
ness. Of course, one woman could not 
oversee the store and do cookery. 

Covering Jellies and Making Jellies 
in Winter 

THERE are many ways of seal- 
ing jellies. The old-time way 
of using a paper wet in rum or brandy 
directly upon the surface before cov- 
ering the top of the glass with a paper 
tied with string is still a favorite one. 
Paraffine wax has its advocates and 
opponents. Some good housekeepers 
say that, since jellies harden with a 
concave surface, the wax settles there 
thicker with less around the sides of 
the glass. As the paraffine cools, it 
shrinks away from the glass, and so it 
fails to fulfil its mission. 

A new method is to cover the top 
of the jelly, when perfectly cold, with 
pulverized sugar, a half inch or more 
deep. Over this goes the paper, ex- 
cluding air and dust. Instead of tying 
the paper around the glass, it is easier 
to paste it; and this method is quicker, 
and gives greater security. The glasses 
may not look quite as pretty and the 
contents are concealed more, but label 
the glasses upon the top, and you will 
not need to hold them to the light to 
identify the desired kind. 

Make a rather thin, raw paste. Use 
a strong, pliable, light yellow paper. 
Cut it large enough to adhere well 
down the sides. Dip it in the paste, 
which is convenient to use if placed in 
a shallow dish or deep plate. Drain 
off any extra paste, and place the paper 
over the glass, pressing it in pleats 
firmly down around the sides of the 
glass. No string will be needed. When 
the top is dry, it will be as tight as 
a drumhead, for the paper, when wet, 
stretches, as any one used to prepar- 
ing paper for water-color painting 
well knows. 



To open when wanted for the table, 
it is easier to cut around the edge, 
inside the glass, and remove the circle. 
Then, after slipping the contents out, 
the glass may be put into water, where 
the paper will soon soak off from the 
sides. 

If you do not wish to make jelly in 
hot weather, because of the great heat, 
or because sugar is high or glasses fail 
to come, or if you do not care to invest 
in many dozens of them, or if your 
jellies are apt to crystallize, or if your 
house is damp, and they do not keep 
well when it is closed, or for any other 
reason, such as uncertainty about the 
number of your family the next winter, 
it is well to leave the jelly-making 
until winter, and merely can the juice, 
without any sugar, in any of the best 
varieties of modern glass jars. When 
the dull, gloomy autumn and winter 
days or evenings come, when no one 
calls, and you are tired of reading 
or sewing, you can easily take what- 
ever amount of your fruit juice is needed, 
and, by adding the requisite amount 
of sugar, soon complete an array of 
tempting jelly. 

Any fruit juice not used as jelly 
can be made into delicious pudding 
sauces, frozen desserts, and many fruit 
punches, or simply iced or chilled, and 
taken in place of wine. Serve it in 
wine or lemonade glasses or small 
tumblers. Strawberry, blackberry, 
raspberry, gooseberry, and almost all 
fruit juices make a delicious bev- 
erage. Julia Davis Chandler. 



Green Tomato Mincemeat 

CHOP fine four quarts of green to- 
matoes. Drain off all the juice, 
and cover with cold water. Let it 
come to a boil, and scald for thirty 
minutes, then drain well. 

Add two pounds of brown sugar, one 
pound of seeded raisins, one-half pound 
of chopped citron, a large half-cup of 



i 5 8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



fine-chopped suet, one tablespoonful 
salt, juice of one-half dozen lemons. 
Stir well, and cook slowly until thick. 
When cold, add one teaspoonful, each, 
of ground cinnamon, cloves, and nut- 
meg. 

I have found paprika superior to red 
pepper in tomato ketchup, adding to 
taste, color, and flavor. 

A good foundation for fruit sherbets 
or water ices is made by cooking and 
straining apples as for jelly. Add any 
or several kinds of fruit or berry juices 
to this, and sweeten to taste. 

M. B. l. 



Some Menus from " The Nor- 
wood," Northampton, Mass. 

American Plan, Rates, $2.50 to $4 per day 

THESE menus are published 
to illustrate the tendency quite 
prevalent to-day toward shorter menus. 
With shorter menus more attention 
to cookery and service is possible. 

Breakfast in July. 

Berries. 
Barley Crystals. Cream of Wheat. 

Broiled Blue Fish. Creamed Codfish. 

Veal Cutlets, Breaded. 

Hamburg Steak, Broiled. 
Dry Hash. Bacon. 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell. 
Eggs Scrambled, with Chopped Ham. 
New Potatoes, Baked. Brown Hashed Potatoes. 

Wheat Cakes. 

Rye-meal Muffins. Coffee Cake. Cream Toast. 

Coffee. Tea. 

Marmalade. 

Noon Dinner. 
Consomme Frappe\ 
Pin Money Pickles. White Onions. 
Broiled Chicken Halibut, Hollandaise Sauce. 
Spring Lamb, Roasted. 
New Turnips. New Potatoes. 

New Corn Cooked with Milk. 
Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing. 
Sliced Peaches with Cream. 
Watermelon. 
Bisque Ice-cream. - Assorted Cake. 

Roquefort. 
Coffee. 



Breakfast. 

Oranges. Bananas. 

Shredded Wheat. Hominy. 

Broiled Salted Mackerel. 

Fried Sword Fish. 

Grilled Lamb Chops. Calf's Liver, Saute. 

Broiled Ham. 

Anchovy Toast, with Poached Eggs. 

Saratoga Chips. Lyonnaise Potatoes. 

Omelets and Eggs to Order. 

Wheat Cakes. 

Graham Rolls. Corn Bread. 

Cold Meats. 

Red Currant Jam. Marmalade. 

Noon Dinner. 

White Soup, Vermicelli. 

Bengal Club Chutney. Radishes. 

Broiled Fresh Mackerel. 

Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Points. 

Rib of Beef, Roasted. 

Fricassee of Chicken. 

Havana Onions. Mashed and Boiled Potatoes. 

Lettuce and Tomato Salad. 

Apple Pudding, Lemon Jelly. 

Iced Lime Cup, with Maraschino Cherries. 

Roquefort, Edam, and American Cheese. 

Saltines. 

Coffee. Iced Tea. 

Friday Supper. 

Clam Broth. 

Fried Soft-shell Crabs, Tartare Sauce. 

Chow Chow. 

Domestic Frankforts with Potato Salad. 

Broiled Sirloin Steak. 

Broiled Honeycomb Tripe. 

Cold Ham. Lamb's Tongue. Dried Beef. 

Baked and Saut6d Potatoes. 

Dressed Lettuce. 

Dry and Cream Toast. Cream Tartar Biscuit. 

Sliced Pineapple. Strawberries. 

Cake. 
Coffee. Cocoa. Iced Tea. 



Too much Underbaked Bread 
" THREAD is the staff of life, and 
X) bread and butter is a gold-headed 
cane," says somebody; but, unless it 
is well baked, it is like a broken staff, 
not to be depended upon. It is sur- 
prising how many excellent cooks 
provide half-baked bread for their 
families. The test is so easily made: 
simply roll a crumb in the fingers, and, 
if it forms a ball or pellet, it is not done. 
If it falls apart into tiny crumbs, it is 
sufficiently baked. The importance of 



Home Ideas and Economies 



*59 



this rests upon the fact that the first 
process of digestion takes place in the 
mouth. The saliva enters into chemical 
action with the starch, and, unless this 
takes place here, it cannot -undergo any 
further process of digestion until it 
leaves the stomach and enters the in- 
testines. Now, if the bread is not well 
done, the starch cells are not burst, 
and the saliva cannot act upon them. 
The dough forms itself into pellets, 
and enters the stomach in this condition. 
This is likely to cause a serious irritation 
of the stomach, and is the occasion of a 
great many cases of illness that are 
attributed to various causes or none 
at all. If the doctor knows the cause, 
he is too timid to mention it. In fact, 
it is similar to the disorder caused from 
eating green fruit. 

"My husband has poor teeth, and 
objects to hard-baked bread," says a 
kind housewife, who bakes from four 
to six loaves in a pan, — excellent bread, 
too, if only it were sufficiently baked. 
Small wonder her husband has poor 
teeth! Greater the surprise that he 
has a stomach! 

"I do not bake my own bread since 
baby came," says a young housewife, — 
and, by the way, college-bred, too, — 
"but we get the most excellent home- 
baked bread; and, as we are fond of 
fresh bread, we get it smoking hot 
three times a week." Her poor hus- 
band suffers agonies with his stomach, 
as she humors him to what he likes best. 
And it is their boast that they almost 
live on bread! 

There is no better food than sweet, 
light, well-baked bread; and we would 
be better men and women, both physi- 
cally and mentally, if we were satisfied 
to forego elaborate menus, and depend 
largely upon bread with butter for fat 
and eggs or meat for proteid; but 
the bread must be good and well baked. 

Miss Helen W. Atwater says, 
"Heavy, badly raised bread is a very 
dangerous food, and, unfortunately, 



very common; and probably more in- 
digestion has been caused by it than 
by all other badly cooked foods." 

Grace F. Love. 



I NOTICE C. B. Smith's article on 
strawberries, and by experience I 
know he is in error in one instance, 
or it would be for those growing straw- 
berries in this section, where he says 
"that every runner the mother plant 
sends out must be promptly cut off." 
The growers here who have the best 
results leave four runners to every 
healthy plant, this fashion X, no 
more runners extending from these 
four small ones, as they claim the 
mother plant forms too many crowns 
for good results where all are cut off. 
We had some of the finest berries on 
the market last spring, but aim to raise 
only for our own use. 

BERTHA ELY, in her recipe 
for preserving eggs, published 
in August-September magazine, does 
not give the quantity of water to be 
used. I have friends who have lost 
dozens of eggs by using too much lime. 
The lime eats into the shell, and spoils 
the flaA^or of the egg. The correct pro- 
portions are one pint of slacked lime, 
the consistency of cream, one cup of 
salt, and three gallons of water. I have 
used this method, but do not now, as, 
in taking out the eggs, the lime is so 
disagreeable to the hands. I prefer 
the method recommended by the United 
States Department of Agriculture. 

How to preserve Eggs 

IN preserving eggs, one point is aimed 
at, and that is the exclusion of air. 
For the last two or three years we have 
used that cleanly method the United 
States Department of Agriculture has 
given or recommended, a solution of 
water glass, also variously known as 
soluble glass and silicate of soda. Its 
cost is comparatively low, obtained 



i6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



here at twenty cents a pint. To use 
it, fill an earthen or water-tight wooden 
vessel with the eggs. To one part 
water glass add ten parts tepid water, 
stirring water slowly and thoroughly 
into the glass solution. When cold, 
pour this mixture gently over the eggs, 
using sufficient to immerse them. 
Three pints of water glass and fifteen 
quarts of water will generally cover 
fifty dozen eggs. Keep vessel covered 
and in a cool place. It is said that eggs 
will keep perfectly three years, in this 
solution. Eggs put down in this man- 
ner in July are as fresh in appearance 
and quality as those laid in January, 
and will sell readily at the price of 
fresh eggs. The eggs will be just as 
fresh when taken out of this solution 
as they are when put in. 

Grape Wine 

THIS wine can be made from culti- 
vated or wild grape, the wild grape 
making a richer wine. For medicinal 
purposes it is preferable to nine-tenths of 
the wines sold. With age it is excellent. 
Take twenty pounds of ripe, fresh- 
picked and selected grapes. Put 
them into a stone jar, and pour 
over them six quarts of boiling 
water. When sufficiently cool to al- 
low it, squeeze them thoroughly 
with the hand. Let them stand three 
days on the pomace. Then press out 
the juice, add ten pounds of granulated 
sugar or four pounds to the gallon, and 
let remain a week longer in the jar. 
Strain and bottle, leaving a vent until 
done fermenting, when strain again. 
Bottle and seal. The last straining, if 
possible, should be done through a wad 
of cotton in a glass funnel, which would 
properly be termed filtering. All sedi- 
ment must be removed, in order to 
keep the good pure flavor. The sugar, 
if dissolved in water and cooked until a 
rich syrup and then blended with the 
juice, will quicken the process of fer- 
mentation. Miss Emma C. Matern. 



Mulching Strawberries 

AFTER the ground is frozen in 
the fall, the strawberry bed 
should be mulched with some coarse 
material, like straw or marsh hay. Be- 
tween the rows it may be put on five 
or six inches deep, while directly over 
the rows it should not be over two 
inches deep. This mulch prevents the 
ground from freezing and thawing dur- 
ing warm spells in winter which might 
heave out the plants, and, if not removed 
too early, delays blossoming period, 
which is an advantage when the bed is 
located in low, frosty ground. This 
mulch is removed before growth starts 
in the spring, in March or April, from 
directly over the hills and left around 
the plants until after the fruit is har- 
vested. This mulch keeps the berries 
free from dirt which would spatter 
on them each heavy rain. 

After fruiting, the mulch is removed 
and the vines cut down with a scythe, 
and, when dry, burned. This kills 
many insects and disease spores, and 
the new growth, which soon springs up, 
is clean and vigorous. 

The question as to how long a bed 
should be left in bearing before a new 
one is set out will depend on the 
condition of the bed. Our best growers 
plant out a new bed every spring and 
destroy the old one, claiming that it 
is cheaper to set out a new one than to 
clean out the old one. It is also true 
that the first crop of berries is usually 
the heaviest. Very satisfactory re- 
sults, however, will be secured by 
fruiting the bed two years. A number 
of varieties do not give the best yields 
until the second year. After the sec- 
ond year, however, a new bed should 
be set out. 

By writing to the United States 
Department of Agriculture, Washing- 
ton, D.C., a well-illustrated bulletin 
on strawberry culture may be obtained 
free of cost. c. b. s. 



QUERIES ANSWERS 



AND 



m 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be 
cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1058. — Miss L. F., Brooklyn, Ohio: 
"Recipe for 'perpetual' yeast, made of po- 
tatoes." 

Potato Yeast 
Pare four or five large potatoes, 
and cover with cold water to keep 
them from discoloring during prepara- 
tion. Grate the potatoes, and stir them, 
as they are grated, into two quarts of 
water boiling over the fire. Let cook 
about ten minutes after all the potato 
is grated, then stir in one-fourth a cup 
of salt and three-fourths a cup of granu- 
lated sugar. Let cool to about 68° F., 
then stir in one pint of yeast (that left 
from a previous making is preferred). A 
dry yeast cake (such as magic yeast), 
softened in half a cup of lukewarm 
water, may be used as a starter. Let 
the mixture stand about twenty-four 
hours in a temperature of about 68°, 
stirring it down whenever it becomes 
light and frothy. Store in fruit jars, 
filling the jars not more than half full. 
The yeast is in best condition at the 
first opening of the jar, and one jar 
should be reserved to start a new -lot 
of yeast. In making bread, use half 
a cup of this yeast to a pint of liquid. 



Query 1059.— M. T. R., Exeter, N.H.: 
"In the recipe for Chili sauce, page 594, 'Prac- 
tical Cooking and Serving,' are the seeds to be 
removed from the peppers?" 

Pepper Seeds in Chili Sauce 
The removal of the seeds from the 
peppers to be used in Chili sauce is en- 



tirely a matter of individual preference. 
As pepper seeds are extremely pungent, 
we think the general preference would 
be to omit them. 



Query 1060. — Mrs. H. O. C, Germantown, 
Pa.: "Recipes for sweet peppers stuffed with 
meat and baked, also for rice cooked with 
cheese." 

Sweet Peppers, Stuffed and Baked 
If the peppers be large, cut them in 
halves, crosswise, remove the seeds 
and cut off the stem, or leave them 
whole save cutting out a round place 
around the stem. For six peppers 
take about two cups of cooked meat, 
chicken, veal, or lamb, chopped fine. 
Grate or chop a small onion fine. Add 
also, if at hand, a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley or mushrooms, season 
with half a teaspoonful or more of salt, 
and mix all thoroughly. Use the 
mixture to fill the peppers. Set them 
into an agate pan, and pour a cup of 
light stock or hot water around them. 
Bake about half an hour in a moderate 
oven. Baste the peppers (not the fill- 
ing) every ten minutes. Chopped nuts 
and bread crumbs, half and half, or 
more nuts than crumbs, or mushrooms 
and crumbs, may take the place of the 
meat. 

Rice with Cheese 
Put a cup of rice over a quick fire 
with plenty of cold water. Let boil 
five minutes after boiling begins, then 



i6i 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



drain and rinse in cold water. Melt 
two or three tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a frying-pan. Add half an onion 
and the rice. Let cook until the but- 
ter is absorbed, then add one cup of 
tomato pulp (cooked tomatoes passed 
through a sieve to exclude the seeds), 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of paprika, and two or three cups of 
stock or water. Let cook until the 
rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, 
then with a silver fork carefully lift 
up the rice, and add half a cup of grated 
cheese. Serve very hot. 



Query 1061. — R. B. L., New York: "A 
tested recipe for fine pound cake, with ex- 
plicit directions for making and baking." 

Pound Cake 
The recipe that follows is the same 
that has been given several times in 
this magazine. To insure success, pow- 
dered sugar should be used. Cream 
one cup of butter. Gradually beat 
into it one cup and a half of sifted 
powdered sugar. Then beat in the 
well-beaten yolks of four eggs. When 
light and fluffy, beat in, alternately, 
half a cup of milk and two cups (half 
a pound) of sifted flour, sifted again 
with half a teaspoonful of mace and one 
level teaspoonful of baking-powder. 
Lastly beat in the whites of four eggs, 
beaten dry. Bake in a tube pan about 
fifty minutes. The heat of the oven 
should be quite moderate. The cake 
should not brown on the top until after 
it has been in the oven nearly half an 
hour. 



Query 1062. — Mrs. F. W. H., North Chelms- 
ford, Mass.: "Recipes for cake other than 
sponge or chocolate." 

White Cake 
Cream one cup of butter. Beat in 
gradually one cup and three-fourths 
of fine granulated sugar, then, alter- 
nately, one cup of milk and three cups 



of flour, sifted with four level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder. Add half 
a teaspoonful of almond extract and 
the whites of four eggs, beaten stiff. 
Bake in a sheet, in a moderate oven, 
about forty minutes. 

Entire-wheat Fruit Cake 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Gradually beat in one cup and a 'half 
of sugar, then add one cup of sultana 
raisins from which the stems have been 
picked, then one egg beaten light, and, 
alternately, one cup of thick sour milk 
and two cups of entire-wheat flour, one- 
third a cup of pastry flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of soda, and one and one- 
half teaspoonfuls of mixed spices, — 
cloves, mace, and cinnamon. Bake in 
small tins. The recipe makes eighteen 
little cakes. Currants or broken nut 
meats may replace the raisins. 



Query 1063. — Mrs. T. G. R., Watertown, 
N.Y. : "Recipes for salt-rising bread and Welsh 
rabbit." 

Salt-rising Bread 
Into a pint of lukewarm water stir 
flour to make a drop batter. Let 
stand in a vessel of lukewarm water, 
in a warm place, keeping the tempera- 
ture as nearly 70 F. as possible. When 
light and foamy, in eight or ten hours, 
add a quart of lukewarm water, two 
teaspoonfuls of salt, and flour to make 
a batter rather stiff er Jthan before. 
Keep at the temperature of about 70 
F., and, when again light, turn into 
pans, and, when nearly doubled in bulk, 
bake in an oven of ordinary tempera- 
ture for bread. A recipe in which 
sugar, shortening, and a tablespoonful 
of white corn-meal was used, was pub- 
lished on page 104, Vol. VII., of this 
magazine. 

Welsh Rabbit 
Let a tablespoonful of butter melt 
and run over the bottom of the blazer. 




Bakino 
^ Powder 



irlS THE NEATEST f* 
!*OfTlMEANP|AB0R\ 

Savers tothe Pasiby) 
Cook, economizes/ 

FLOUR, BiTTEfUNP> 

the food Morel 

f digestible and j 

V Healthful 




c 




The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Put in half a pound of cheese, grated 
or cut fine, and stir constantly until 
the cheese is melted. Then add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika, and the yolks of 
two eggs, beaten and diluted with half 
a cup of cream, ale, or tomato puree, 
and stir constantly until the mixture 
thickens and is smooth. Then serve 
on the untoasted side of bread toasted 
upon one side. For variety spread 
the bread with anchovy paste before 
turning the rabbit upon it. 



Query 1064. — Mrs. E. W. Hynes, California : 
"Recipes for fruit cocktails, flavored with 
sherry, to be served at the beginning of a 
luncheon. I can always get oranges and 
prunes. Also, if a given recipe is to be pre- 
pared by steaming, can it be baked instead, 
and, if so, will it require a longer or shorter 
time?" 

Peach Cocktail 
Pare a peach for each service. Cut 
in thin slices, and squeeze over these 
a little lemon juice, just enough to 
keep the fruit from discoloring. 
Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and 
serve icy cold in punch glasses. Orange 
or pineapple pulp and juice may be 
mixed with the bits of peach. Sherry 
in small quantity may be added at 
pleasure. Sometimes a tablespoonful 
of chipped ice is mixed with the fruit, 
but the better plan is to chill the 
mixture by letting it stand a short 
time surrounded with broken ice. Salt 
may be mixed with the ice, to expedite 
the chilling process. 

Orange Cocktail 
Prepare as above, using bits of orange 
from which skin and membrane have 
been removed. Lemon juice is not 
needed, but the orange juice should be 
retained. Slices of banana, bits of 
pineapple, white grapes, skinned, cut 
in halves, and seeded, or pieces of 
steamed prune or uncooked dates, figs, 
or pieces of canned fruit, may be added 



to the orange. Do not have the pieces 
of fruit too large. 

Prune Cocktail 
Cook the prunes just enough to re- 
move the stones easily. Sweeten 
slightly while cooking. Chill thor- 
oughly, then cut the flesh into small 



At the Parsonage 

Coffee runs Riot no longer 

"Wife and I had a serious time of it 
while we were coffee-drinkers. 

"She had gastritis, headaches, belch- 
ing, and would have periods of sick- 
ness, while I secured a daily headache 
that became chronic. 

' ' We naturally sought relief by drugs 
and without avail; for it is now plain 
enough that no drug will cure the dis- 
eases another drug, coffee, sets up, par- 
ticularly so long as the drug which 
causes the trouble is continued. 

"Finally, we thought we would try 
leaving off coffee and using Postum. 
I noticed that my headaches disap- 
peared like magic, and my old 
"trembly" nervousness left. One day 
wife said, "Do you know my gastritis 
has gone?" 

"One can hardly realize what Pos- 
tum has done for us. 

"Then we began to talk to others. 
Wife's father and mother were both 
coffee- drinkers and sufferers. Their 
headaches left entirely a short time 
after they changed the old coffee for 
Postum. I began to inquire among 
my parishioners, and found to my as- 
tonishment that numbers of them use 
Postum in place of coffee. Many of 
the ministers who have visited our 
parsonage have become enthusiastic 
champions of Postum." Name given 
by Postum Company, Battle Creek, 
Mich. 

There's a reason. 

Read the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville, " in each package. 



Advertisements 



Enough for the average family in each can 

21 KINDS 







m 



■$& 



x# 



£> 



M 



WITH YOU soup making is 
merely an incident in housekeeping; 
WITH US soup making is our 
daily, hourly business. 
YOU have to buy, blend, boil, fret over it. 
WE attend to all that for you. 




SOUPS 



Pure, Savory, and Delicious, and equal to 
the highest grade of home-made 
soups. Costs but a dime and is 
prepared in a minute. 

JOSEPH CAMPBELL COMPANY 

42 Penn Street, CAMDEN, NJ. 



. o 



Polly, put the kettle on; 

We need a little heat, 
So we can make enough of soup 

To give them all a treat. 





l - ■' *■ 




7 lii 


^jjj-* i*fi 









"JUST ADD A CAN OF HOT WATER AND SERVE" 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



neat pieces, discarding the stones. To 
the juice add lemon or orange juice 
(one or both), and sherry at pleasure. 
Pieces of canned peaches, pears, fresh 
pineapple, bananas, or of maraschino 
cherries, are suitable fruits to combine 
with prunes. Fruit cocktails are served 
as a fruit course at dinner or luncheon, 
particularly the latter. 

Cooking by Steaming or Baking 
Nearly all recipes in which steaming 
is the mode of cooking indicated may 
be prepared by baking. Especially is 
this the case with flour mixtures. A 
pudding made of flour, to be steamed 
two hours, might be baked in at least 
half that time. We are unable to give 
a rule that would cover all cases. 



Gradually beat in three-fourths a cup 
of sugar, then one egg and the yolk of 
another, beaten without separating the 
white from the yolks. Add the grated 
rind of a lemon or orange, one-fourth 



QuKRY 1065. — Mrs. D. G. P., Los Angeles, 
Cal.: "Recipe for a frosting for a lemon pie." 

Meringue for Lemon Pie 
Allow twice as many level table- 
spoonfuls of sugar as there are whites 
of eggs, and as many whites of eggs as 
are conveniently at hand. Two whites 
will do, but three are better, and four 
will be required, if the last of the mer- 
ingue mixture be put on with pastry 
bag and tube. Beat the whites until 
dry, then gradually beat in half the 
sugar. Continue beating until the 
mixture is very glossy and firm, then 
"cut and fold" into it the last half 
of the sugar. Let the pie cool a little 
before the meringue is spread over it. 
Set the pie into a moderate oven, to cook 
the meringue. After ten minutes, 
longer if the meringue is very high, 
increase the heat, if necessary, to color 
the meringue slightly. 



Query 1066. — Mrs. C. M. C, Chicago: 
"Recipe for crullers, a cake similar to a dough- 
nut, but thinner and crisper." 

Knots 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter. 



Get Power 

The Supply comes from Food 

If we get power from food, why not 
strive to get all the power we can? 
That is only possible by use of skilfully 
selected food that exactly fits the re- 
quirements of the body. 

Poor fuel makes a poor fire, and a 
poor fire is not a good steam producer. 

"From not knowing how to select 
the right food to fit my needs, I suffered 
grievously for a long time from stomach 
troubles," writes a lady from a little 
town in Missouri. 

"It seemed as if I would never be 
able to find out the sort of food that 
was best for me. Hardly anything 
that I could eat would stay on my 
stomach. Every attempt gave me 
heart-burn and filled my stomach with 
gas. I got thinner and thinner until 
I literally became a living skeleton, 
and in time was compelled to keep to 
my bed. 

"A few months ago I was persuaded 
to try Grape-nuts food, and it had such 
good effect from the very beginning 
that I have kept up its use ever since. 
I was surprised at the ease with which 
I digested it. It proved to be just 
what I needed. All m^ unpleasant 
symptoms, the heart-burn, the inflated 
feeling which gave me so much pain, 
disappeared. My weight gradually in- 
creased from 98 to 116 lbs., my figure 
rounded out, my strength came back, 
and I am now able to do my housework 
and enjoy it. The Grape-nuts food 
did it." Name given by Postum Com- 
pany, Battle Creek, Mich. 

A ten days' trial will show any one 
some facts about food. 

"There's a reason." 



Advertisements 





Purity 



IT'S a word suggestive of everything clean and wholesome. And 
that is just what Squire's Kettle Rendered Pure Leaf Lard is, — 
clean and wholesome. Clean because we insist on perfect clean- 
liness in every part of our immense factory. Wholesome because it 
is clean, and because it is pure, — made from the leaf of healthy, 
corn-fed pigs, and unadulterated. 

Healthy because every animal that comes into our factory is 
subjected to United States government inspection, resulting in the 
rejection of hundreds of them and a consequent loss of thousands of 
dollars. But — you could not ask for a better guarantee of quality. 
Squire's Kettle Rendered Pure Leaf Lard always presents that 
attractive, crinkly surface that characterized your grandmother's 
home-made lard, and it is every bit as wholesome. It has been the 
standard for New England housewives for more than sixty years. Its 

wonderful shortening 
qualities much more than 
offset the small increase 
in cost over ordinary 
brands. Sold by the best 
dealers. Be sure you get 
Squire's, made only by 



JOHN P. SQUIRE 

& COMPANY, 

Boston, Mass., 



Makers of Squire's " Ar- 
lington" Sausage and 
Squire's High-grade Hams 
and Bacon. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



a teaspoonful of mace, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, two level teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar, half a teaspoonful of 
soda, and about four cups of flour, alter- 
nately, with half a cup of milk. Cut 
off bits of the dough, and roll into the 
size and shape of a lead pencil. Tie 
in loose knots, and fry in deep fat. 
Drain on soft paper, and dredge with 
powdered sugar. 



Query 1067. — J. D., Darlington, Wis. : 
"Give the exact quantity of flour to be used 
in making the plain coffee cake given in the 
June-July, 1905, magazine. Is the dough 
kneaded?" 

Flour in Plain Coffee Cake 
At this time we cannot give the 
exact quantity of flour that was used 
in the coffee cake referred to. Prob- 
ably between four and five cups. The 
dough is not kneaded, but is of the con- 
sistency of a drop batter. Turn the 
dough into the baking-pan, then smooth 
the top with a knife. 



Query 1068. — Mrs. K. C. M., Illinois: 
"Kindly give proper points to be considered 
when examining cake (light and dark^) and 
bread (white, rye, and whole-wheat) for prizes 
at county fairs." 

Points Possessed by Good Cake 

1. The exterior should be of a uni- 
form color, neither too light nor too 
dark. 

2. The top of the cake should be 
nearly level and without cracks. 

3. The texture should be fine-grained 
and of uniform lightness. 

4. If fruit be used, it should be dis- 
tributed evenly throughout the cake. 

Points Possessed by Good Bread 

1. The outside should be of a nearly 
uniform tint, neither too light nor too 
dark. 

2. The loaf should not bulge over the 
sides of the pan. 

3. The exterior should be nearly 



smooth (without lines) on all sides of 
the loaf. 

4. The odor and flavor should be 
sweet and agreeable. 

5. The bubbles of the crumb should 
be uniform in size and small. 

6. When two loaves are baked in one 
pan, and broken apart, the crumb ex- 
posed should rebound when compressed. 



In a restaurant in a small town not 
far from Kansas City is a waitress who 
writes poetry. The other day she ap- 
proached a traveling man who had 
just sat down at a table, and surprised 
him by saying: — 

I'm delighted to say 
We have bean soup to-day, 
Some roast lamb and steak. 
Now which will you take ? 
Then coffee and tea. 
Please order of me. 
The meal's cooked by ma, 
Tra la, la, la! 

The traveling man knew a little 
about rhyming, too, and he came right 
back with: — 

On soup I'll begin it, 
With a bean or two in it. 
Some coffee I speak, — 
Have it healthy, not weak. 
Sorne steak then I'll chew, — 
Bring the cleaver in, too. 
That's all. Keep your lamb, 

It's not worth a , hang, 

And kindly be quick, 
Tra, la, la, lick! 

Kansas City Times. 



To destroy disease germs and foal gases, the waste 
sinks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot b 
be regularly purified with 




Chlorides 

<TIt& Orfor/ess 



Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
Address HENRY B. PLATT, 4a Cliff Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



XIV 



Advertisements 



CHILDREN]! 



TEFTHINc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. *' Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup" 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." 



Wedding Gifts 



of Gold or Silver will surely tarnish before the hon- 
eymoon is over, but there's a way to restore its 
original brilliancy easily, quickly and safely. Use 

gL.ECTR 

^ Silver Polish g 

silicon 

If you begin right and continue the right method of 
cleaning, the care of your ware is simple and its 
beautiful brilliancy life-long. At Grocers and Drug- 
gists everywhere. 

Trial quantity lor the asking. 

Box postpaid 15 cts. (stamps). 
"Silicon," 30 Cliff Street, New York. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XV 



Book Reviews 



A Littlk Cook-book for a Little 
Girl. Cloth, small i2mo. Price 
.75. Boston: Dana Bstes & Co. 
This little handbook is just what it 
claims to be, and is suitable for girls 
from seven to fourteen who wish to 
learn how to make plain or pretty 
dishes. It tells in a simple way how 
to prepare cereals and eggs, fish and 
meats, soups, salads, vegetables, des- 
serts, and ices. Directions are also 
given for making candy as well as light 
luncheons for carrying to school. The 
writer is the author of ' ' Gala Day Lun- 
cheons"; and the greater part of her 
present volume has appeared in cur- 
rent numbers of Good Housekeeping. 
The recipes are very plainly and pleas- 
antly described. From the use of the 
book children may gain much of 
pleasant and profitable instruction. 
And, besides, the only way to learn 
how to cook is to begin. 



According to announcement the 
American School of Home Economics 
has a large and efficient corps of in- 
structors, and offers complete courses 
in every branch of modern home- 
making. Especial attention is given 
to correspondence* teaching. To this 
end an excellent series of lesson papers, 
or books neatly and uniformly bound, 
have been prepared by the respective 
teachers, so that the best results of cor- 



respondence teaching can be obtained. 
Some of these booklets we shall review 
in future numbers of the magazine. 
The entire plan of instruction by the 
school is from the useful, practical point 
of view; and yet the standard or ideal 
aimed at is high, as will be seen from 
the following definition of the pro- 
fession of home-making: — 

"Home Economics stands for the 
ideal home life for to-day, unhampered 
by the traditions of the past. 

"The utilization of the resources of 
modern science to improve- the home 
life. 

"The freedom of the home from the 
dominance of things and their due 
subordination to ideals. 

"The simplicity in material surround- 
ings which will most free the spirit for 
the more important and permanent 
interests of the home and of society." 



John Kendricks Bangs was lunching 
with a friend at the New York Yacht 
Club when he happened to catch sight 
of the motto, Lux et Veritas, on the 
building of the Yale Club across the 
street. "That's nice," he said, turn- 
ing to his friend. "Why don't you 
yacht-club chaps put a motto on your 
own door? If the Yale Club can use 
Lux et Veritas, why can't you fellows 
use Ducks et Demitasse? It's quite as 
appropriate." 



IF any dealer 

offers you a substi- 
tute when you ask 
for the 




Sample Pair, Mercerized, 
25e. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 
on receipt of price. 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 



Insist on having the genuine 

FOR THE NAME AND THE 
MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON. 

GEORGE FROST CO., Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



Lea & Perrins' 
Sauce 

THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 



The Peerless Seasoning 

This bottle with the label bearing the signature, Lea 
& Perrins, is familiar to the public, having been on 
the market for more than seventy years. As a 

seasoning, it improves more dishes than any other 
relish ever offered to the public. Soups, Fish, 
Meats, Game, Salads, etc., are made delicious by 
its proper use. - 

LEA & PERRINS 9 SAUCE 

adds enjoyment to every dinner. There is no other 
near as good ! 



Remember, Lea & Perrins' Sauce was in universal use a generation before any oilier 
so-called Worcestershire Sauce was ever heard of. Beware of imitations. 

John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 




SYLMAR OLIVE OIL 



DIRECT FROM 
THE RANCH IN 



Sylmar Olive Oil was awarded the 
Grand Prize (highest award) at the 
St. Louis World'sFair in competition 
with all other olive oils. It is the 
natural oil of olives, to which noth- 
ing has been added, nor anything 
taken away. Guaranteed pure. It 
will keep longer than any other oil 
without turning rancid. We own 
the ranch, the trees, and the mill. 
We produce this oil under the most 
favorable conditions from the finest 
ripe olives grown. 

Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the 
rich, fruity flavor of ripe California 
olives, and is most palatable. Syl- 
mar Olive Oil is absolutely the finest 
article of its kind that can be pro- 
duced, and can be purchased with 
the confidence that every bottle will 
stand the most rigid chemical anal- 
ysis and be proven absolutely free 
from adulterants. 



CALIFORNIA 




Natural Oil of Olives Perfected from 

" Blossom to Bottle " on the 
Largest Olive Ranch in the World. 



Send postoffice or express money order 
for $3.00 for three quart-size bottles, and 
we will deliver them to you express pre- 
paid. Give your grocer's or druggist's 
name, and we will offer him the agency. 
We publish a booklet containing 
physicians' directions for medicinal 
uses of olive oil, cooking receipts, 
government recommendations, de- 
scriptions of our process, and direc- 
tions for detecting adulterants in 
olive oil. We will send this booklet 
and a sample bottle of the oil to 
any address for 10c. postage. 

Two tablespoonf uls of Sylmar Ol- 
ive Oil contribute more nouri shment 
than a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing 
the digestive organs. The body is a 
machine which must be lubricated 
in order to run smoothly and be 
vigorous. Eat natural olive oil 
freely and pay the doctor less. 



Los Angeles Olive Growers' Ass'n, 314 Bradbury Bldg., Los Angeles, Oil. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




The first thing found in the market-basket of a 
good housekeeper is 

Beech -Nut 
Sliced Beef 

Sliced delicately thin and packed without a preserva- 
tive of any kind in the famous Beech-Nut air-tight 
glass jars, it is as perfect beef as can be procured. 
We do not call it "dried beef" because it is so 
much better than the ordinary kind of beef that is 
sold under that name. The special method of 
curing it and the absolute purity of the packing 
give it that peculiar, delicious flavor which, once 
known, is never forgotten, and which is only to be 
found in Beech-Nut Sliced Beef. 

Beech-Nut 
Sliced Bacoii 

the original of the famous brand, with its uniform 
slices, and freedom from preservatives of any kind, 
like Beech-Nut Sliced Beef, leaves nothing to be 
desired in point of flavor, appearance and purity. 

Under the title of Beech-Nut Conserves are 
grouped twenty- one different kinds of jams, jellies, 
preserves, peanut butter and prepared dates, put up 
with the same care and absolute purity as are all 
the Beech-Nut products. 

If your grocer does not keep them, do one of two things: 
either persuade him to get them, or send to us for a trial dozen 
jars, assortc d, $3.60 east of Chicago and north of Richmond, ex- 
press prepaid; other points east of the Mississippi river, $4.00; 
west of the Mississippi river, $4.50. Only one order to a person. 

Beech-Nut Packing Co. 

Canajoharie, N. Y. 



Henry's Career 
Henry's what you might call a 
quitter. The only time he ever stuck 
to anything was when he set down on 
the fly paper. He was a sailor for three 
v'yages, and then gave it up 'cause he 
hadn't been made a skipper. Then 
he raised hens, but got discouraged 
'cause the roosters wouldn't lay, — some 
such reason, anyhow. He's done a 
little of 'most everything sence, but 
he's given 'em up one after the other. 
The only trade he ain't peeked in at is 
the one he was cut out for, — that's 
roostin' on top of the church steeple 
for a weather vane. Consequently, he 
knows from experience that it's time 
to give up afore you begin. — From Lin- 
coln's " Partners of the Tide" (Barnes). 



The Old-time Kitchen 
Concession had been made to the 
grand-aunt's nice housekeeping by let- 
ting the party eat its dinner in the big 
kitchen, where pots of rose-geranium 
and pink primroses filled the windows, 
and the blue dishes on the shelves 
winked at the brass and copper things 
about the stove. It is all very well to 
talk about the advances in household 
art; but where in all the wide world, 
to-day, are there rooms so fit, so or- 
derly, so full of that priceless, ineffable 
something that means home, as were 
the old-time kitchens of the old-time 
housewives, who had never even 
dreamed that a woman could have a 
higher career than co&ld be found by 
her own hearthstone? — From Shafer's 
"Beyond Chance of Change" (Mac- 
millan) . 

Our little four-year-old Charlie said 
to me last spring, when we were ar- 
ranging where we would go on our 
summer vacation, "Papa, do you re- 
member much about last summer?" 
"Yes," I said, "I remember a good 
deal. Do you?" "Well, I remember 
some; but, you see, the winter is so 
long that it wears out the remember." 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 



Miss Hop e 

was for 17 years principal of 
the Boston Coohing School. 
She ought to he a good judge 
of cooking stoves. She says: 
"I consider the • 



j frawfbrd 

^^^ (goking-R&nges 



the hest of them all. They txse less coal and give 
a more even heat than any ranges I ever saw." 






Many other well-known cookery teach- 
ers pay us good money for CRAW- 
FORDS when other makes are offered 
them free. 

Special Features: 

1. Single Damper. This is patented. 
It is worth the price of the range. It makes 
baking quicker, better, surer. It saves fuel. 

2. Cup - joint Oven Flues. 
They don't leak. They utilize all 
of the heat. They insure better 
baking. 

8. Improved Dock - ash 
Grate. This \s patented. It means a 
better, steadier fire, — one that will keep 
over night. It means a saving in fuel. 

4. Reliable Oven Indi- 
cator. Readable. Entirely outside 
of the oven, consequently not affected 
by grease, smoke, or dust. 

5* Sfte Perfected Oven. 
The quickest, surest baker and most 
perfectly controllable oven ever con- 
structed. 

Oar Gas Shelf. Sets on in 
\ place of the usual end shelf, and 
I constitutes an auxiliary gas range. 

OUR NEW PLAIN RANGES 

\ have made a ' 'hit ' ' with those who 

! love plain elegance and those who 

appreciate the ease with which such 

f a rqnge can be kept clean and bright. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue 



Cra<wfords ha.<ve more Improvements than all other ranges combined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31-35 UnioSh-eet, BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School^Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




" With a Flavor All Its Own." 



Just ask your grocer for a 1 or 2 lb can. (It's 
never sold in bulk.) Thousands of the best stores 
supply it, and there can be no excuse for refusing 
you, as it is easily obtainable by any grocer wishing 
to oblige. If you can't get it, write us full particulars. 



D 



INELL=WRIGHT CO., Principal Coffee Roasters, 

BOSTON AND CHICAGO. 




r» 



Exquisite 
Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

made witH 

Junket 
Tablets 



We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for 10 cents and give you the charming 
Brochure " Junket Dainties " free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



Gordon Cookery School 
Miss Marion H. Neil is a Scotch- 
woman and a first-class diplomee. 
She received most of her training in 
England and Scotland, where she taught 
cookery successfully for twelve years. 
Two years ago, assisted by Mary M. 
Neil, she opened a school under the 
foregoing title at 405 North 33d Street, 
West Philadelphia. This school also 
has been successful. These young 
women are certificated and experi- 
enced teachers, and are qualified to 
give practical instruction in all kinds of 
household and high-class cookery. Les- 
sons are arranged for ladies in the coun- 
try and at their residences. Corre- 
spondence lessons also are given. This 
is undoubtedly a practical school, con- 
ducted by enthusiastic and earnest 
teachers. 



The Evolution of Beatrice 

Beatrice Blinn was the thinnest thing 

That ever you ever saw. 
Her bones almost poked through her skin, 

The kind that folks call "Raw." 
Yet all the time she used to eat 

The greatest deal for dinner, 
Soup, potatoes, pudding sweet, 

And just kept getting thinner. 

Until one day this famished fay 

(Observe that my rhyme gets chunky) 
Began to grow, and, do you know, 

She's nothing short of dumpy! 
So now she bants, and sadly pants, 

And sighs just to be slimmer; 
And every day, as I've heajd say, 

She goes without her dinner. 

Grace Stone Field. 



The Favorite 
Sauce is a necessary addition to 
meats, gravies, and soups. The great- 
est sauce is Worcestershire, and the 
one peerless brand of Worcestershire is 
Lea & Perrins'. All the world knows 
that, and all the world calls for its 
favorite. The market is flooded with 
spurious imitations, of which consumers 
should beware and look for the trade- 
mark. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XX 



Advertisements 



grf^CP»*'»'wH5w» 



i 



MARK 
THISI ! 



« 



|F In making out your marketing list, be sure 
you include a good cereal food ; and when you 12 
buy a cereal food be sure you get the whole wheat 1 
in digestible form. That's 

Shredded 

Whole Wheat 

Biscuit 

King of the world's cereal foods. ^ It contains all 
the nutritive elements of the whole wheat grain, 
steam-cooked and drawn into fine porous shreds. 
These delicate shreds are retained and assimilated 
when the stomach rejects all other foods. C,Shredded 
Wheat is not a " pre-digested " food : it is a ready- 
to-digest food. It is the best food for growing chil- 
dren because it contains all the elements for the 
building of the perfect human body. <L Shredded 
Whole Wheat is made in two forms, Biscuit 
and Trisctiit. The Biscuit is delicious for 
breakfast with hot or cold milk or cream, or for any 
meal in combination with fruits or vegetables. 
C Trisctiit is the Shredded Whole Wheat 
cracker, which takes the place of the white flour 
bread. Delicious as a toast with butter or with 
cheese or preserves. 

" It's All in tKe Shreds »• 

NATURAL FOOD COMPANY 
Niagara Falls, N.Y. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but initiations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. - Send for book of 43 prize receipts. 

WH. UNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



Ifyoumust 

on account of 
your health 

Give up 

Drinking 

Coffe e 

WHY NOT TRY 

THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 

OLD GRISTMILL 
WHEAT COFFEE? 

It has all the virtues possible 
in a health drink made with 
wheat — besides being 

Pleasing to the taste 

-and you aonttire of it- 
Try it and be healthy 

OLD GRIST MILL CHARLESTOWN MASS 




Recipi 



•rocity 

When he implied that as a cook she wasn't 

very good, 
And couldn't make things "near so nice "as 

his dear mother could, 
She said to him, "Be patient, dear, I'm willing 

quite to try, 
If you'll get me hats and dresses 'like my father 

used to buy.' " 

Nixon Waterman. 



Miss Bella Bruce, of the Bruce 
School of Household Science, 334 Mad- 
ison Avenue and corner 43d Street, 
New York City, is just sending out 
her annual announcement. The courses 
in cookery in this school are of an 
eminently practical character. Special 
stress is put upon individual work 
and upon training in the use of large 
and small quantities of materials. 
In elaborate cookery the dishes are 
chiefly English. Private lessons are 
given by appointment. In all the 
courses, everything is taught with sci- 
entific precision and extreme thorough- 
ness of detail. Miss Bruce is a grad- 
uate of Pratt Institute, and was for- 
merly head of the Domestic Science 
Department at Briarcliff School, Briar- 
cliff Manor, New York. 



Nine States — Maine, Massachusetts, 
Rhode Island, New York, Illinois, 
Ohio, Tennessee, Georgia, and Texas — 
were represented at Mrs. Hill's classes in 
cookery at her summer home in New 
Hampshire, this rJast summer. En- 
thusiastic reports of the work done 
by the classes and of the outings in 
which the young women participated 
have been received at this office from 
the young women on their return trip. 
Mt. Washington and a half-dozen lesser 
peaks were visited, and the rising and 
setting of the sun were seen from vari- 
ous vantage-points. Golf, rowing, and 
swimming were among the incidentals 
that many essayed. All report gain 
in health and strength, as well as in 
enthusiasm for the work in their 
special lines of cookery. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The 

xxii 



Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 







For Pure Food 
This is pre-eminently the age of 
"movements," some useful, some not, 
and some betwixt and between. One 
of the most recent, most interesting, 
and most promising is a movement of 
food packers and dealers which has for 
its objects the improvement of the food 






FLEISCHMANN'S 

COMPRESSED YEAST 
HAS NO EQUAL 


standards and the enactment of such 
legislation as may be required to bring 
the interstate traffic in food products 
under proper regulation and secure 
uniformity of action in the various 
States. Nobody having the slightest 
acquaintance with the present status 
of the pure-food question can for one 
instant doubt the necessity for this 




movement of packers, manufacturers, 
and dealers, which has taken form and 
substance under the name of the Na- 
tional Food Manufacturers' Associa- 
tion, incorporated under the Illinois 
laws, with offices in the First National 
Bank Building, Chicago. 

The officers of the Association are: 






president, 0. L> Deming, Chicago; 






treasurer, Frank C. Rex, New York; 


Quilted 
Table Padding' 

is much better than the antiquated 
woven stuff. 

There are several reasons why. 

It can be washed, others cannot. 

It does not cover diners* clothing with 

lint or fuzz. 

• 

It does not stick to the table when 

hot plates are laid on it. 
It wears twice as long as any other. 

These are the "whys** that have 
made it almost universal. 




secretary, Thomas E. Lannen, Chicago. 

Mr. 0. T. Deming, as the late editor 
and publisher of the Chicago Grocer 
and also the Canner and Dried Fruit 
Packer, has enjoyed a long and honor- 
able career as a publisher and trade 
journalist, and has had exceptional op- 
portunities for obtaining a thorough un- 
derstanding of the pure-food question. 
He has abundant energy and a reputa- 
tion for doing things. With Mr. Dem- 
ing at the helm, the future of the as- 
sociation seems assured. 

Such a movement, so headed and of- 
ficered, will command the general con- 
fidence of the public as well as those 
interests directly concerned. 


rtiese trade-mark crisscross Ljnes on every package. 

Glut&fiKtxf its •» 

BARLEWCk#STALS, 

Perfect Breakfast^Li Dejfcrt Health Cereals. 

PANSY FLOUR X OT \^\ Cake and Biscuit - 

Unlike all o*fier lifodsV Ask Grocers..' 

For book oAampft, write 

FARWELL & RHINB, \Atertown. N. Y.. U. $. A. 


ALL DRY GOODS DEALERS SELL IT. 


EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO., 1 
15 Laight Street, New York. 









When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



MMM 



/k< 



All the tonic (and more) that there is in 
wine is found in Welch's Grape Juice. 

The principal food constituent of the grape 
is sugar ; termentation turns this to alcohol. 

Welch's Grape Juice is the life of the 
grape ; it refreshes and invigorates, and there 
is no reaction, as from a false stimulant. 

You cannot find a better beverage than pure 
unfermented grape juice — one whose use or 
abuse cannot harm in any way. You cannot 
find a grape juice so pure or made with such 
care as Welch's. 

Welch 
Grape Juice Co. 

Westfleld, N. Y. 

Sold by most druggists and grocers. In 
ordering it is worth your while to specify 
" Welch's." If your dealer cannot supply you, 
send #3.00 for trial dozen pints, express paid 
east of Omaha. Booklet with recipes free; 
three-ounce bottle by mail, 10 cents. 



;;>..-;:: 



IT IS MADE FOR YOU, 

The "Standard Rotary" 




Sewing Machine, 

To save your strength, your time, and 
assure you perfect and noiseless work. 
"Standards" are all one kind, the best. 

SHEPARD NORWELL COMPANY, 

BOSTON, flASS. 



Niagara draws the Crowds 

The Threatened Destruction of the Cataract 

seems to have quickened the Popular 

Desire to see it before it 

" dries up." 

The season just closed shows no 
abatement in the tide of travel toward 
Niagara Falls. The great cataract 
still holds its own as the greatest nat- 
ural wonder on the continent. More 
pilgrims have gazed upon the beauties 
of the picturesque Niagara region this 
year than ever before in its history. 
Whether this is due to newspaper talk 
about the possible destruction of the 
Falls in the near future or to the normal 
desire of the people to perform a pa- 
triotic duty is of little consequence. 
The interesting fact is, every summer 
brings an increased tide of travel toward 
the Niagara region. 

Instead of detracting from its beauty 
and grandeur, the harnessing of the 
cataract to many industries has added 
greatly to the popular interest in it. 
The ''show place" among these indus- 
tries is the beautiful "Conservatory" 
in which shredded wheat is made. Not 
only the industry itself, but the noble 
building in which it is housed, is singu- 
larly fascinating to the popular mind. 
Its location in the heart of the choicest 
residence district in Niagara Falls is 
the result of a search for cleanliness and 
beauty. There are wheat foods and 
wheat foods, but only one shredded 
whole wheat food, and the thousands 
who visit the Falls naver seem to tire 
of going through this "Castle of Light, " 
and noting the extraordinary provi- 
sions made for the welfare of the em- 
ployees and witnessing the process of 
shredding wheat. 

Here are made every day in the year 
a million and a quarter shredded wheat 
biscuits; and, of course, the company 
would not make them if the people did 
not eat them. It is not known how 
many people have passed through 
"the home of shredded wheat" this 
year, but so great have been the crowds 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 













I 

1 

I 
I 







Stanley White 

son of 

J. Francis White, M.D. 

Auburn, Cal. 



1 



Mellin's Food is an assurance of healthy, happy childhood and robust manhood and 
womanhood; feeding Mellin's Food in infancy prepares a foundation of good health 
that resists the attacks of disease, prevents sickness, and later on produces men and 
women not only strong physically, but strong mentally. 

Mellin's Food gives permanent results because it is a true food and makes the baby 
grow strong, with rosy cheeks and strong limbs, and builds up a strong constitution. 

Mellin's Food is the only Infants' Food which received the Grand Prize, the 
highest award of the St. Louis Exposition, 1904. Higher than a gold medal. 



A sample of Mellin's Food sent free on request. 



Mellin's Food Company, Boston, Massachusetts 



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xxvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



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Crisp and delicious— for breakfast, luncheon 
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that it has come to be an interesting 
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traction at Niagara Falls, the cataract 
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Sir Michael Hicks- Beach agrees with 
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fashioned notion that woman's best 
place is the home, not the club; and so 
does Lady Hicks-Beach. She, it is 
said, can do anything with the needle, 
while their daughters are expert cooks. 
But similarly accomplished, the home- 
and-club women can show, are count- 
less sisters with various and great ac- 
tivities in the world at large. 



In the southern part of France which 
borders on the Mediterranean and ex- 
tends between the Alps and the Rhone 
the culture of flowers has developed into 
a great industry for the manufacture of 
perfumes. 

An Aid in Fever Cases 
In all fever cases the liberal use 
of the odorless solution of metallic 
chlorides, commercially known as 
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Dr. Benjamin Lee, secretary Pennsyl- 
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health inspector, Chicago, 111. For 
disinfecting dejecta, dilute one part 
chlorides with four parts water. For 
deodorizing by sprinkling, and for 
moistening towels and cloths to be 
suspended in the sick-room, dilute one 
part chlorides with ten parts water. 



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xxviii 



Advertisements 



If you want a perfect cracker to serve with cheese, ask for 

Brownsville 
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" The Cracker that has Brownsville on it." 

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The Joseph R. Peebles' Sons Co., Cincinnati. 

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If you cannot buy these crackers of any grocer that you 
can reach easily, we will send ten pounds for $1.50 express 
prepaid, or two pounds for 50 cents, express prepaid. 

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THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE, BOSTON, r MASS. 




1847 Rogers Bros.' oofrffifffirk Absolutely Free 

With One Dozen Celebrated 

Carrington Flavorings 



non-alcoholic, easy to use, guaranteed pure. 
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or Japanese rice biscuit forms a peculiarly exquisite confec- 
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Price 25c. per can. When ordering by mail add 10c. for postage. 

BUNKIO MATSUKI, 

380 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, eTVIASS. 



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xxix 



Advertisements 





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Steaks and Race Suicide 
There may have been a time when 
you dined at the Cafe Martin, whether 
at the old stand down in University 
Place or the newer one at Twenty- 
sixth and Broadway, after Delmonico 
got closer to the region of the Astor- 
bilts; and you may have said, as you 
discussed your steak a la casserole, 
"This man Mar-teen is a cuisinary 
wonder and a divinely inspired hu- 
manitarian." We have now more news 
of him as a patriot and lover of his kind. 
He has had this notice conspicuously 
posted in the cafe amid odors which 
stimulate the feeble tissues of over- 
wrought mortals: "Any employee of 
the Caf <r Martin who from this date shall 
get married shall receive $100. Any 
employee who is married already will 
get $50 at the birth of each child, pro- 
vided always that such employee shall 
have been in my service for a period of 
twelve months." It is in this practical 
way that Martin supports the Roose- 
veltian appeal for race propagation. 
There are a good many people who think 
the American is thriving all right, 
thank you, and that Theodore's postu- 
late on race suicide is the result of 
undue apprehension; but Martin is a 
powerful believer in the married man 
and father as a safe, sound, reliable 
employee and an uplifting member of 
the State. Martin's steaks are good, 
his patriotism better. 

Women's Educational and Industrial Union 

264 BOYLSTON STREET, BOSTON 

BOARD and ROOM REGISTRY 

Directs applicants to reliable houses in Boston 
and at the seashore and country. Apply at 

THE BUSINESS AGENCY 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Company, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



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XXX 








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VUAUKSOIVIKO 



Oostoi K \ \? 



lLghi^jQo=;. hv the Boston Cooking-School 



Magazine 



~0^»- I M ( 1 . 1 ^^ Entered at Boston Post-office as second-class matter 



ns 



YOU SHOULD ALWAYS 
USE 



w 



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m 



M 



YEARS 



.'# 



STAN0A RD ^r ^ 






4 



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YOUR PASTRY WILL BE 
TENDER, FLAKY AND 
DELICIOUS 



Kaaumc 



n 



£> 



&RLI NOTON SAUSAGE 

CURERS OF 

SQU»RESHAMS& BACON 



^3 



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^Ijanft^gifcing SDitmer 

If one eats with justice and with gratitude, and fairly and temperately 
and decently, must he not also eat to the divine acceptance? — Epictetus. 



MEMUS 



Oyster Cocktail in Red Pepper Cups. 

Chicken Broth with Rice. 
Olives. Celery. Bread Sticks. 

Boiled Fresh Cod, Oyster-Crab Butter-Sauce. 
Boiled Potato Balls. Pickles. 
Partridge and Mushroom Patties. 

Roast Sucking Pig, Apple Sauce. 

Orange-and -Cress Salad. 

Sweet Potato Fritters. Creamed Spinach, Egg Garnish. 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Squash Pie. Fruit Cup, with Apple Sherbet. 

Camembert Cheese. Crackers. Celery. 

Coffee. 

Nuts. Fruit. Raisins. 



II 

Hot Grilled Oysters on Toast, Maitre d'Hotel. 
Olives. Celery. 
Roast Turkey, Cranberry Jelly. 

Potatoes, Vienna Fashion. 

Onions in Cream Sauce. Candied Sweet Potatoes. 

Celery Salad. 

Sweet Cider Frappe. 

Young Partridge Pie. 

Charlotte Russe. Pumpkin Pie. 

Fruit. Nuts. Coffee. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



NOVEMBER 



No. 4. 




Old-time Lanterns 



Old-time Lights 

By Mary H. Northend 



u 



TILITY first, beauty second," 
is a safe rule for most house 
furnishers to follow ; and how 
much more freedom we should have 
from an unnecessary amount of care of 
the innumerable objects in the modern 
home if this law had always been fol- 
lowed ! 

The furniture of the Colonial period, 
as well as prior to that, was always in 
good taste, and the candlesticks, can- 
delabra, and early lamps were invari- 
ably beautiful. 

From an artistic standpoint we can 
find little fault with the first lights or 



the candlewood or pine knots that 
lighted the Puritans' homes. They 
served the purpose for which thev 
were needed then, as they gave the 
adequate cheer and the light that the 
simpler home required. 

Our forbears obtained the knowl- 
edge of this candlewood light from the 
red men, who had no other means of 
lighting their wigwams. The resinous 
wood of the pines which grew in the 
forests all about the door furnished 
them with an unlimited supply of the 
necessary knots, and had been used by 
the tribes for generations. 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Tray and Snuffers 



This wood was so full of turpentine 
that, when cut into smaller fragments 
or slivers, it would burn as clear as a 
torch, but on account of dropping its 
pitch freely it was set just inside the 
fireplace upon a flat stone, where it 
would do the most good and the least 
harm. 

Large supplies of this wood were laid 
in by each family in the fall, to carry 
them through the long, dark winter 
months. This custom is still followed 
in some portions of the South; and so- 
journers in North Carolina often pur- 
chase bundles of these slivers, and carry 
them home for fagot parties. 

The roaring fire on the hearth, which 
sent its cheerful glow over the room, 
and the brilliancy from the candlewood 
knot gave all the light that was needed 
in the ordinary household. But now 
and then the children would augment 
this by casting into the blaze hickory 
shavings, and would give themselves 
no little pleasure by poking the back- 
log with the long iron peel, so sending 
showers of brightening sparks up the 
chimmey. 



Candles were a step in advance, but 
they added not a little to the family 
expenses, and were watched jealously 
and extinguished as soon as possible. 
In 1634 no candles could be purchased 
for less than fourpence, and few Colon- 
ists could afford such extravagance. 
As no tallow suitable for the making 
of these candles could be obtained in 
this country, Governor Winthrop sent 
to his son in England to send over or- 
dinary tallow or suet, in order that the 
Colonists could make them. 

At a later time crude oil was extracted 
from the livers of fish, and used in tin 
lanterns, which were always to be 
found in the homes of the Colonists, 
hanging on a nail at one side of the 
fireplace and ready for any emergency. 
The wicks used in these lanterns were 
made of loosely spun hemp and tow, 
and were often dipped in saltpetre. 

Sometimes iron saucers with a 
twisted rag for a wick were filled with 
this oil, and used in lieu of lamps. 

The Betty lamp was one of the first 
that was practical. It was made of 
pewter, iron, or brass, was circular, 



Old-time Lights 



.67 




Old-time Sc 



oval, or triangular in form, and was 
very shallow. After being filled with 
tallow or grease, a wick, or twisted rag, 
was placed in the liquid, and lighted 
by means of the flint or steel, or with 
a live coal; for matches were an un- 
known convenience at that time. 

Among the many interesting antiques 
to be found in Salem, Mass., is one 
of these earliest lamps that stands 
about six inches high. It is made of 
iron, with a lip like that of a pitcher 
and a short and curved handle at the 
back. The middle is filled with oil, 
and in this is placed the twisted rag 
which rests on the nose. Tradition 
has it that this particular lamp did ser- 
vice in the time> of the witchcraft de- 
lusion, and was used to light the pris- 
oners to jail. 

The "spermaceti" which was ob- 
tained from the head of the whale was 
valuable in the making of candles, and 



it was commonly thought that the ones 
made of this material gave much more 
light than the ordinary tallow candles. 

A factory was established as early as 
1762 in Germantown, a part of Ouincy, 
Mass., for the manufacture of sperm 
oil from the crude state, and twelve 
years later spermaceti candles were 
sold in Salem, Mass. 

The making of candles was one of 
the duties of the good housekeeper, and 
in the fall of the year the difficult task 
was undertaken. The kettles used for 
this purpose were large and heavy; 
and, though unwieldy to handle, were 
hung on the long crane over the fire in 
the kitchen, and then filled half-way 
up with boiling water and the melting 
tallow. The tallow was twice scalded 
and separated from the water before 
it was ready for use. Large poles were 
placed so that the ends rested upon 
chairs, and across these were laid 



i68 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




From Mr. Arthur Wests, Salem, Mass. 

smaller sticks. These were the candle- 
rods, and had attached to each of them 
the wicks. These were dipped in 
melted tallow, one rod full of the wicks 
cooling while another was being im- 
mersed, and this was repeated until 
the desired size was obtained. It was 
an extremely slow and trying task; 
for, if the candles were not allowed to 
cool slowly, they would crack, and yet 
with all the difficulties experienced 
candle-makers could finish about two 
hundred a day. 

Another way of making was by run- 
ning them into moulds, in the centre 
of which was the wick that was at- 
tached to a pole above. The berries 
from the bayberry bush were used in 
making the choicest candles, and the 
bushes, which grew plentifully through- 
out the country, were stripped of their 
fruit in the fall for this purpose. These 
berries were thrown into pots of boil- 
ing water; and, as the fat inside them 



melted and floated to the top of the 
kettle, it was skimmed off, and after it 
was refined was a beautiful shade of 
transparent green. 

A large quantity of these berries were 
necessary for the manufacture of a 
comparatively small number of candles. 
The supply was naturally limited, 
and they were treasured accordingly 
by those fortunate enough to possess 
them. These bayberry candles gave 
a delightful odor while burning, which 
was pungent and fragrant. 

Often a special person, whose busi- 
ness it was to make candles, went about 
from house to house, as a seamstress 
does now, and made the winter's sup- 
ply for those employing them. 

With the advent of candles came the 
sconces, candle beams, and candle- 
sticks, which grew very beautiful in 
design with the more lavish use of 




Owned by Mr. Nathan Osgood, Salem, Mass. 



Old-time Lights 



169 




Old-time Light 

candles. The candlestick varied from 

the simple ones made of tin or pewter 

to the handsomely 

decorated styles in 

silver and brass. 

Pewter was a favorite 

material for lamps as 

well as other utensils, 

and these were largely 

in use for whale oil. 

Lamps and lanterns 
came into fashion in 
the early part of the 
eighteenth century, 
and were used for halls 
and staircases, while 
glass lamps were ad- 
vertised in the middle 
part of the same 
century, they were 
simple in shape and not 
particularly graceful. 



The next development was the astral 
lamp. These lamps rested on square 
pedestals of brass, from the centres of 
which rose fluted columns which held 
the receptacles for oil. With this in- 
novation came chimneys and lamp 
shades capable of endless varieties; 
and, after the introduction of kerosene, 
which was cheaper, astral and sperm 
oils were discarded. 

With a renewed appreciation for the 
beautiful in the old-time furnishings 
for the house, these lamps relegated to 
attic and cellar, and miraculously 
saved from entire destruction, have been 
unearthed, put into commission again, 
and are counted among the treasures 
of the modern home. The simple and 
dignified candlesticks of silver or brass, 
as well as the more elaborate cande- 
labra, grace many a mantel of to-day, 
and in some cases are cunningly con- 
trived with electric lights, which give 
a brilliant illumination unknown in 
their former days of use. 

The soft and beautiful light of the 
candle for the dinner table is appre- 
ciated as never before, and the candle- 
stick, whether of simple design or more 
symmetrical with prismatic pendants re- 




Mrs. Harry Benson, Salem, Mass. 



170 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



fleeting rainbow hues, adds by its dig- 
nity a charm which nothing else can give. 

Often the sconce and candelabra 
were designed to harmonize with some 
special room, and represented lyres 
crossed with flutes and other musical 
instruments, while branching arms held 
the candles. 

Old-time lights of endless varieties 
and size are treasured in many homes 
in the historic towns of New England, 
and are greatly prized for their beauty 
and antiquity. 



All the world was the market for the 
seafaring man; and on his return 
home his capacious chest was opened 
with no little curiosity and pleasure, 
for it was sure to contain treasures for 
the embellishment of his home or the 
adornment of his wife. It is due to 
this cosmopolitan shopping and the 
good taste of the purchaser in the times 
gone by that so many beautiful lamps, 
candelabras, and other household ac- 
cessories are to be found in the homes 
of to-dav. 



November 



By Judith Giddings 



Naked branch and leaden sky, 
Looks a bit like snow! 

Dry stalks rustling in the wind, 
Clouds hanging low. 



Blooming time and harvest time 

Over for the year. 
Light the fire, draw the shade, 

Hail! Thanksgiving's cheer. 




Dining-room Wagon after serving Salad Course 



Miss Lydia' s Roomer 

By Jane Dransfield Stone 



D 



EAR, dear," thought Miss 
Lydia, "what an ugly name \" 
Miss Lydia was very sensi- 
tive to names. Her own — Lydia Myr- 
tilla Kennedy — was to her a source 
of secret delight, perhaps one reason 
why in all her forty peaceful, pleasant 
years she had never changed it. More- 
over, it stood for a long line of ancestors 
whose dignity she had ever sought to 
maintain. 

But now a humiliating necessity was 
come upon her. Why she did not un- 
derstand, though her agents might. 
Year after year her income had fallen 
away, until she was brought to her 
last resource, throwing open, as it 
seemed to her, to the public the old 
Kennedy homestead, hitherto inviolably 
sacred. In other words, Miss Lydia 
had advertised for roomers. Medtown 
was shocked. In the upper circle of its 
little society, ruled by a code more rigid 
than that of the four hundred of a 
metropolis, such a step meant social 
extinction. Yet what could she do? 
When she, the last of her name, was 
carried down the straight, wide stairs, 
her responsibility ended. Until then 
the homestead and the Kennedy pew 
in the old South Church should not pass 
from the Kennedy name. 

Yet neither pride nor society pay 
taxes. 

Consequently, Miss Lydia stood within 
her broad doorway on this certain 
morning, frowning at the card just 
handed to her by a punctilous little 
gentleman, who stood before her on 
the porch, making her a series of stiff, 
sweeping bows. 

"Oh," she thought, "if I must take 
roomers, why need they have such 
names?" 

The one on the card was unthinkable, 



unpronounceable, the acme of ugliness. 
Nevertheless, she led the way down 
the wide, dim hall, with its green, 
checkered carpet and mottled, brown 
wall paper, and threw open the door 
of the downstairs bedroom at the 
end. 

"Ah!" exclaimed the little gentle- 
man. The accent was unmistakable. 
Miss Lydia glanced up sharply. A 
foreigner was to her a species apart. 
Yet she forced herself to ask, — 

"Is it satisfactory?" 

"It is beautiful, so quiet and peace- 
ful, like a summer evening. I like it to 
look so into the garden. Where I am 
now it is so noisy. The lady has mar- 
ried a widower with many children, 
and, instead of going to him, he has 
come to her. Those children! Ach, 
how they make noise! It is great 
annoyance. I cannot think of my 
words. I cannot work." 

"Do you work in your room?" 

Miss Lydia thought at once of coun- 
terfeiting, or some such secret, unholy 
task to be done apart from one's fellow- 
men. 

"Yes, Miss Kennedy, I work and I 
eat in my room. I make my own 
meals. But I am very quiet. Only 
once in a while, with your permission, 
I play upon my flute. It is my solace. 
The married widow does not like my 
flute." 

"What is your work, may I ask?" 
said Miss Lydia, still worried. 

"I am a translator. In Germany 
they like the American books." 

"But couldn't you translate better 
in Germany?" Miss Lydia did not 
believe in immigration. 

"Not so well. I must get the spirit, 
the Zeitgeist" 

Miss Lydia did not understand, but 



1J2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



she ventured, "1 should think you 
would go to New York or Boston for 
that, some large city. Why did you 
select Medtown?" 

''It was fate, Miss Kennedy. I de- 
cide to come to America. I spread a 
large map before me. I close my 
eyes. I circle my pen round and round. 
I place it down. I open my eyes. 
My pen stands on Medtown. Why? 
I do not know. But I came to Med- 
town. I have been here five years." 

Miss Lydia had never seen him. 
"Did you ever attend the South 
Church, sir?" 

"No, no. But I know Doctor Rose. 
He is my dear friend. We go into the 
fields together after beetles." 

Miss Lydia remembered her pastor's 
hobby. She felt relieved, for it seemed 
to stamp Doctor Rose's approval upon 
her applicant, yet, when the door closed 
upon the bowing figure of the little 
gentleman, Miss Lydia sat down and 
cried. Presently she glanced timidly 
up at the row of solemn ancestors who 
looked down accusingly at her from 
the walls. 

"Oh!" she cried, "you're worse than 
the ladies. They thought my adver- 
tisement dreadful, and I suppose it 
was. And now what will they say, 
what will they say?" 

And indeed, with the foreigner es- 
tablished in the Kennedy homestead 
and the soft music of his flute floating 
out into decorous High Street, Med- 
town was agape. But Miss Lydia held 
her lithe figure proudly, especially as 
on Sundays she rustled into the Ken- 
nedy pew, so finally her friends decided 
that, though a pity, it was the best she 
could do. If only it weren't for his 
flute! At first it angered Miss Lydia 
that he should so seem to advertise 
her humiliation, but finally she grew 
to wait for evening, when she could sit 
in the gentle dusk and listen. The 
tunes were some familiar, some strange. 
She liked best the "Serenade" and the 



"Intermezzo" from "Cavalleria Rusti- 
cana." The latter was new to her. 

The winter passed, and spring ad- 
vanced. Miss Lydia loved the spring. 
In March she began to work in her 
garden, choosing the early morning, 
when her roomer's shades were still 
drawn. One morning, however, when 
from a motive of economy she was 
herself upturning the sod for the nas- 
sturtium plot, he came flying out, and 
with indignation, and a low bow, took 
the spade from her. 

"You shall not dig, Miss Kennedy. 
Permit me." 

After that, in the morning, as if by 
magic, she frequently found spading 
done, grass clipped, or vines trimmed. 
She had her suspicions. But when 
was it accomplished? By accident she 
discovered. One night she was awak- 
ened by the snatch of a song. It was 
the "Serenade." Timidly she opened 
the shutters a crack, and looked out. 
In the broad moonlight some one was 
busily spading the rose bushes. It 
was her roomer, who had forgotten 
himself, and burst into song. His 
voice was mellow and sweet, and Miss 
Lydia found herself listening with a 
feeling of guilt, yet of strange delight. 
"It is like his flute," she whispered. 
But Medtown was soon again to be 
aroused. One morning Lawyer Pitkin 
dropped in upon Miss Lydia as she sat 
in the quiet sitting-roo*tn, scented now 
by the lilies-of-the-valley growing in 
the shade beneath the open windows. 
"Good morning, Miss Lydia. I've 
some news for you. An investment of 
your father's, which we all believed 
lost, has at last amounted to some- 
thing. The mines are now yielding 
6 per cent. I have here the first pay- 
ment. I congratulate you. Once more 
you will take your old position among 
us. You are again independent." 

He handed her a slip of paper with 
a short bow, not at all like those to 
which she had grown accustomed. 



Miss Lydia's Roomer 



J 73 



"Thank you, Mr. Pitkin. Forgive 
me if I have no words." 

' ' No wonder, Miss Lydia, no wonder. 
But it's the unexpected that always 
happens. Again my congratulations. 
The ladies will drop in soon to offer 
theirs." 

Alone, Miss Lydia sank into a chair, 
the paper crushed in her hands. Thank- 
ful tears filled her eyes. "Indepen- 
dent," she repeated, then, suddenly, 
"but of what?" 

She looked out of the window. She 
saw the rose bushes tied up in the night 
and the pansies weeded by full moon. 
She saw her roomer's face contented 
and happy, and heard again the flute, 
sad and tender or gay. "Oh," she 
exclaimed, "can I send him out again 
into the noise he hates? Can I shut 
him from the happiness he has found 
here? No, no." 

Consequently, when the ladies came 
in, they found Miss Lydia with traces 
of tears in her eyes, but resolute lips. 
"Now you can dismiss your roomer 
and his awful flute," they cried. But 
Miss Lydia remained firm. "He shall 
be left undisturbed," she declared. 
Why she scarcely understood, though 
she knew what it meant. 

Meanwhile the roomer, ignorant of 
the storm breaking around his bene- 
factress, came and went as usual in 
the daytime, and in the evening played 
his flute. It was June now, and the 
loveliness of earth and sky seemed to 
slip into his music. And Miss Lydia 
listened. But one day Doctor Rose 
called. That evening the flute was 
silent, and in the morning the roomer 
came out into the garden. 

"Miss Kennedy," he said, bowing 
low, "I am going away." 

"Oh," she exclaimed, "aren't you 
happy ? ' 

"Happy? Ach, too happy! It has 
been heaven. After a thousand storms 
I sailed here into a haven of peace. I 
dropped my sails. I hoped to stay 



forever. But I have not died yet. I 
must not expect eternal bliss." 

"Why do you go?" Miss Lydia 
looked straight into his eyes. Then 
she remembered Doctor Rose's call. 

"Oh!" she cried, with a little catch 
in her voice. 

"Don't," cried her roomer, "I can- 
not bear it." Quick as a flash he knelt 
before her, and seized her hand, cased 
as it was in her gardening glove. 
"Miss Kennedy, believe me, I would 
give my life for you, and now I make 
you sad." 

"Rise, sir, rise, I beg of you." 
They were in a little arbor, but the 
leaves were not over-large yet. Miss 
Lydia glanced about apprehensively, 
but her adorer remained on his knees, 
oblivious of all the world. 

"No, I will not rise. I would fall 
lower. I would crawl. I would lie 
beneath your feet. Oh, Miss Kennedy, 
do you not understand? I love 
you." 

Miss Lydia drew back, frightened. 
She had had proposals before, but not 
of this kind. Those she had refused, 
sorry only that they had been spoken, 
but this stirred within her feelings like 
the flute aroused, but intensified. 

"Do not dismiss me, Miss Kennedy. 
I will go away from your house. I will 
not cause you an instant's pain. But 
tell me I may sometimes come into 
your garden to play to you, some- 
times dig your flowers in the moon- 
light.'' 

"Rise, sir, rise, I cannot answer you." 

He rose, and looked at her with 
tears in his blue eyes. "Forgive me, 
Miss Kennedy. I have pained you. 
I am too passionate. I will go away." 
He held out his hand. "Good-bye." 

For an instant her slender hand lay 
in his. He stooped and kissed it, then 
turned from the arbor. 

"Don't," cried Miss Lydia, "don't 
go." 

With a # cry of joy he rushed back, 



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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



but from the other side of the arbor 
Miss Lydia had escaped into the 
house. 

That evening the moon rode high 
and full in the heavens. For an hour 
the flute had been breathing out into 
the garden. It had played the "In- 
termezzo," now it was the "Serenade." 
With beating heart Miss Lydia, who 
was watering the pansies on the shady 
side of the house, stopped to listen. 
When it ceased she scarcely knew, for 
the notes played on in fancy. Sud- 
denly a voice spoke at her side. 

"How sweet the moonlight sleeps 
upon this bank!" 

The roomer stood before her, point- 
ing to a rise of ground in the open, 
where white lilies caught and held the 
moonlight. 

Miss Lydia smiled, and quoted in 
return, "Why, then, did you not bring 
your music forth into the air? 

Soft stillness and the night 
Become the touches of sweet harmony." 

"Ah, your great poet! How won- 
derful he is!" He went on to finish 
the passage. "But there he is mis- 
taken. We mortals do hear such har- 
mony. While still we wear 'this 
muddy vesture of decay.' It is in 
our hearts we hear it. It is love that 
plays, love that rolls up within us the 
harmony divine. O Miss Kennedy — 
Miss Lydia — I hear it. I hear this 
harmony to-night. Do not you?" 

They were now in the shade of the 
house. He turned, and held out his 
hands to her. With a little sob she 
laid both hers in his. 

"Yes," she cried, "I hear it." 

Later they emerged again into the 
moonlight. She was speaking. 

"But there is just one thing. I can- 



not be Mrs." — she hesitated. She had 
never yet spoken his name. 

Her companion stopped in alarm. 
"But, Miss Lydia, Miss Kennedy, you 
just said" — 

"Yes, I know. I will be your wife, 
but I cannot take your name." 

He wiped his dampening brow. Such 
subtilty was too much for him. 

' ' How is that ?" he cried . " We must 
have a name. O Miss Kennedy, do 
not joke with me." 

"Are you very fond of your name?" 
asked Miss Lydia, smiling. 

Her companion became excited. 
"No," he exclaimed, "I hate it. My 
father, who gave it me, was unkind. 
He drove me out because I would love 
music and my books, and not his 
business. It is the badge of an un- 
happy life." 

"I love my name — Kennedy — Lydia 
Kennedy. Do you not like it, too?" 

"It is beautiful. I play it over and 
over on my flute so soft." 

"I wouldn't mind being called Mrs. 
Kennedy." 

Light began to break. "You don't 
mean that I" — ■ 

"Yes, that is it." 

He scratched his head in perplexity. 
"That would, indeed, be strange. Yet 
why should not I? What I am called 
makes little difference. I am always I." 

Smilingly she broke off a twig of 
syringa bush. "Kneel!" she com- 
manded, and gently struck his shoulder. 
"I dub thee Richard Kennedy. Rise, 
Mr. Kennedy." 

Then they both laughed, and like 
foolish young lovers kissed. So the 
Kennedys still live in the Kennedy 
house and sit in the Kennedy pew. 
And Mr. Kennedy knew why his pen 
fell on Medtown. 




The Fine Art of Honesty 

' By Kate Gannett Wells 



IT is a waste of material to tell the 
truth when a lie will answer just 
as well, says the cynic, who, if 
long life is his, will find that the non- 
sense of such a plea lies in the final 
waste wrought by the lie; for there 
is no truer proverb than the old adage, 
"Murder will out." It may, of course, 
be humiliating to acknowledge that we 
speak the truth from a sense of ex- 
pediency rather than from obedience 
to ethics; but at least it saves the 
situation. 

Yet, on the whole, truthfulness in 
speech is not as common a virtue as 
honesty in deed. It is a constant mar- 
vel that there is so much honesty in 
the world, as well as a triumph for belief 
in the ultimate goodness of the universe. 
For the thousands who are imprisoned 
for theft there are hundreds of thou- 
sands who could not be induced to 
take what is not theirs. We hear so 
little of the daily honesties of life, 
taking them all for granted, but so 
much of the occasional robberies, which, 
alas! however, are too frequent. We 
really are at the mercy of potential 
thieves all the time, yet our purses, 
our sewing-baskets, our preserve-closets, 
are usually not molested by our em- 
ployees. They may deem it their 
theoretical right to have our currant 
jelly, but they do not stealthily en- 
force that right. They tidy up the 
sewing-room after the dressmaker leaves 
without filching a spool of thread. 
There are as many postage stamps on 
the writing table in the early morning 
as we left there the night before. 
Though employees may be honest as a 
matter of course, or because it does not 
pay to be otherwise, yet the result — 
their honesty — increases the common 
virtue of every-day life. This average 



honesty is due to both an inherited and 
an intuitive sense of ought, or duty, 
fostered alike by home, church, and 
school. 

On the other hand, some people ap- 
parently can no more help being cheats 
in words and deeds than others can help 
being misers. I had rather save five 
cents any time than spend it; and the 
volubility with which a man sells a 
lame horse as a sound one is a matter 
for constant joking. Such persons are 
foes to the well-being of others. Their 
half-truths are worse than whole lies, 
their shoulder-shrugs more implicating 
than a challenge to a duel, their ex- 
aggerated statements more harmful 
than a direct blow, and their giving of 
wrong impressions, maliciously or care- 
lessly, more fatal than poison. Snobs, 
cads, parasites, sneaks, are at home 
in all these varieties of untruthful 
speech, which, in relation to others, 
becomes dishonesty. Nothing else is 
so important to man or woman as 
good reputation, and, when this is 
slowly drawn away from them by the 
innuendoes of another, such half-state- 
ments are robbery or theft. 

It is curious that, though dishonest 
people are often truthful, the latter are 
rarely dishonest in regard to material 
things. What they need is to become 
adepts in that finer art of honesty 
which lays hold on intangible realities, 
and neither by look nor word impinges 
on even the shadow of truth. The 
silences of honesty often constitute its 
fine art, and are conspicuous in the 
honor of stenographers, confidential 
clerks, secretaries, telegraph and tele- 
phone operators. What havoc they 
could make ! What sensational re- 
ports they could furnish! And most 
of them don't. Only an inveterate 



176 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



pessimist would argue that because 
some State, personal, and financial 
secrets have "leaked out" (the non- 
committal term for individual dis- 
honesty), therefore no one can be 
trusted. There is no social statement 
truer than that the great mass of the 
workers who know about other people's 
affairs by being in their employ are 
impervious to temptations of giving 
away in talk the knowledge which has 
become theirs through an official or 
business way, and which, therefore, 
does not belong to them as a personal 
possession. 

They may be thus honest simply 
from prudential motives, aware that 
they have got to be silent if they wish 
to keep their places. Even then it 
would be easy for them to impart 
just an item here or there without being 
suspected, and they don't. That is 
the glory of it. They go out to their 
meals or back to their homes, and do 
not even want to tell what they know. 
Their confidences could extend from 
broken hearts and vows to money 
losses and gains, literary and personal 
gossip, right of priority in scientific 
discoveries. If, occasionally, some one 
does tell or even hint at a might-be 
forthcoming disclosure, the hubbub of 
excitement and condemnation that is 
justly raised is proof of the rarity of 
betrayal. 

As illustration of this common hon- 
esty was a despatch that came to the 
telegraph operator of a little village 
anent the breaking of an engagement. 
The message was sent to the person 
for whom it was designated, and no one 
ever knew of it until the family were 
ready to speak of it. Of course not, 
says some one scornfully. Not so; for 
the girl operator, keen in affairs of the 
heart, might have made herself the 
centre of a village sensation. But the 
thought never occurred to her. Those 
who enjoy making a sensation will best 
know how deeply rooted and inevitable 



must have been her honesty. A ste- 
nographer or telegraph girl is often 
ahead of a diplomat in wise, honorable 
reserve. 

Honesty becomes a fine art when it 
not alone disarms suspicion, but places 
itself, as it were, so on the outside of 
events and talks that no one would 
conceive of its being possible that such 
a person should know anything of them. 

Visitors ought to possess the same 
qualifications in regard to what is not 
theirs to say. Generally, they do have 
it. But the desire to be considered 
entertaining, to be a personal social 
centre, for a few moments at least, is 
often yielded to as the whilom guest 
renders a dinner more exciting by her 
travesty of little untoward happenings 
or shortcomings seen at somebody's 
else house. The fine art of honesty 
would neither allow uncomfortable 
things about others to be spoken, when 
no allusion to them was necessary, and 
thus steal away their social prestige, 
nor would justify such repetition on 
the score of its truthfulness. 

It is often said one need not tell all 
one knows. But why need one ever 
remember that he knows it, if it is 
something which should be forgotten? 
There is a reticence of spirit as well as 
of words which is allied to that same 
kind of moral force which will lead a 
puny, hungry child to hover round the 
cake and candy counter of some store, 
his eyes gloating on their dainties, his 
hands extended over them longingly, 
and yet to turn away without touching 
them. He rejects the temptation, not 
from fear of being caught, but from the 
innate sense that its delights are not his, 
even if as a little socialist he thinks 
they should be. 

There is still another form of verbal 
dishonesty: that of reserving one's 
last card, as it is called, to win a point, 
when honor demands that one's hand 
should earlier be seen. So doing often 
means the holding back of something to 



How Grandma Cooked 



177 



the injury of another. It is urged that 
such self-defence is necessary in busi- 
ness, else one cannot get on. Also it 
is declared that, if the speaker knows 
his listener has misunderstood him, and 
that such lack of comprehension will 
accrue to his benefit, he need not ex- 
plain further to his ultimate loss there- 
by. That is just being foxy! To let 
a man leave you carrying away his mis- 



conception is not justified by any mod- 
ern, complex way of doing business or 
philanthropy. Rather than be skilled in 
such makeshifts for honesty of speech, 
it is better to cultivate its fine art, 
which considers any form of untruth- 
fulness, whether of speech or silence, as 
robbery of somebody's else possession 
of himself, his reputation and belong- 
ings. 



How Grandma Cooked 

By Mrs. Frances H. Howard 



"A* 



LL this talk among you cooking- 
school girls, strikes me like a 
foreign language, and your de- 
scription of the utensils you use is like 
to the stories of travelers. I'm sure 
I shouldn't know how to use them 
myself, and, as I've listened to your 
chatter, my thought has gone back to 
the days when grandma used to visit 
us, and mother would let her cook in 
her old-fashioned way. As I wasn't a 
strong child, and couldn't play out as 
my brothers did, I used to trot around 
after the dear old lady, and watch her 
prepare the food that in some mysteri- 
ous way always tasted better than any 
other. 

"As she worked, she had a way of 
always explaining why she did each 
thing, and soon I became greatly in- 
terested, and, when I married and had 
a house of my own, I found that many 
of the things that grandma had told 
me still stayed in my memory, and 
proved most useful in helping me to 
do things well. One of these was 
thoroughly impressed on me. It was 
that 'good cooking cannot be made 
out of bad marketing,' and the longer 
I cooked, the more convinced I be- 
came of this. And there was another 



point she emphasized strongly, and 
that was, 'Be sure your butcher does 
his work properly.' Make him cut 
through every joint carefully, and then 
your carving can be done easily and 
consequently gracefully. You know 
that English women usually carve the 
joint, — I mean such as have few or no 
servants, — and no woman would be 
willing to do that if she had to screw 
and twist as some of our men do, and 
perhaps slide the obstinate piece on the 
table-cloth at last, to an accompani- 
ment of verbal energy which might well 
be eliminated from the social ideals of 
the table. 

"Then, again, as you talk of your 
flavorings, etc., I wonder how you 
know what you are eating. In grand- 
ma's day, she used to say everything 
should have a distinct flavor of the 
substance from which it was made. 
Soup, for instance, if made from beef, 
should have the flavor of beef, and so 
of mutton or veal. And she always 
said that, when any meat had done duty 
as the foundation of any soup, it wasn't 
good for much else." 

"But, grandma," said Elsie, "that's 
one of the things we are proud of. We 
think it's a triumph of kitchen science 



7« 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



that we can take the beef that has 
been boiled to rags, and fix it up so it 
is eatable in some other dish." 

' ' I dare say ; but, because it is eatable, 
it isn't necessarily nutritious, and we 
old-fashioned people used to think that 
food was intended to serve the body's 
needs, not the whims of a created appe- 
tite." 

"Now there, grandma, you talk like 
these hygienic faddists who claim that 
folks nowadays live to eat, and ought 
rather to eat to live." 

"Well, there's some truth in their 
idea, surely, but, as I remember the old- 
time cooking, there was some tempta- 
tion, even in those days, to 'live to 
eat.'" 

"Now, grandma," pleaded Myra, 
' ' tell us about the way you served meals 
in those days, and how you cooked 
them." 

"I'd better tell you how my grand- 
mother did, for my early days were 
familiar with the modern cooking 
stove, and therefore not so very un- 
like what some of you can remem- 
ber." 

"That reminds me," said Grace, "of 
a saying of my mother's, that things 
often get so old they are new." 

"Perhaps you'll like to hear about 
"one of the earliest cooking stoves that 
came into use. Of course, all such 
stoves were planned for burning wood, 
as coal had not then come into general 
use, and gas had not been heard of. 
An old lady whom I occasionally vis- 
ited had one which had a deep fire-box 
in front, with two lids. The top of 
the front of the stove extended back 
to form the floor of the oven, and was 
supported by a long leg. At the front 
of the top of the oven was a hinged 
lid which could be turned up to enable 
one to set in or take off a kettle imme- 



diately over the fire, and then, dropped 
down again, it made quite a surface to 
the top of the whole concern. The 
sides of the fire-box extended so when 
this lid was down it rested on them, 
and thus any kettle which was over 
the fire was enclosed in a sort of iron 
box, open at the front. I used to think 
what a delightful play-house it would 
make, if only it wasn't hot. A 'tin 
kitchen' was fitted to slide in between 
the fire-box and the long leg behind, 
thus having the fire in front, the oven 
overhead, and lifted by its own legs 
above the stone hearth. In this a 
turkey or a pig could be roasted, and 
by pulling the whole thing out a little, 
endwise, the roast could easily be 
basted. 

"Thus, you see, it was cooked in the 
open air, so to speak, much as it used 
to be before the fire in the old fire- 
place. 

"To my taste, no roast of the present 
day should be called a roast. It is 
simply baked, and the flavor of any 
meat baked in a close oven cannot, to 
my taste, equal that of the old-time 
roast." 

"Did she use a spit, grandma?" 

"Yes, but the spit wasn't turned 
constantly, as in the olden times when 
the roast was cooked before the open 
fire. This tin thing held and reflected 
the heat, so that the roast was done 
to a turn, and perfectly browned. 

"Another stove, of which I knew, had 
a deep box under the broad hearth in 
front, and the woman who cooked by 
it used to draw out coals and fill it, 
and that heated the hearth so, when 
covered by a tin cover, made to set on 
closely and open toward the fire, pies 
could be baked there. So, with four 
in the oven and two on the hearth, six 
pies were baked at one time." 



What the Restaurant Manager Wanted 

By Helen Campbell 



WHY was he coming? This 
was the question that 
troubled Mrs. Hetty Pear- 
son, owner of a chicken farm always 
enlarging its boundaries, and sending 
daily to the big city not far away 
"broilers" of unsurpassed excellence, 
fattened to precisely the right point, 
and hardly a half-ounce difference in 
the weight chosen as the standard. 
She had learned it all, bit by bit, study- 
ing authorities, experimenting on her 
own account, till the thing had become 
a science, and she was regarded by the 
whole countryside as an authority, not 
alone in chicken-raising, but in bee- 
keeping as well. Left a widow with 
five children, three of them boys, and 
no capital save an acre of land with its 
little house and barn and her own 
two hands, she had seen what might 
be done, and worked it out patiently 
and steadily, adding presently, bit by 
bit, other acres, and stopping when 
there were just enough for her purpose. 
The sons, all of them experts also, — for 
she had taught them all she knew, — had, 
one by one, graduated from a famous 
agricultural college, and been called to 
fill positions each in his own line of 
work; and now the twins, girls of 
eighteen, were beginning the same 
course, and would be her assistants 
when it had ended. 

"A fine chance for all of them," the 
mother said, "but I'm not sure I do 
not like best the way it had to come 
to me, necessity my teacher in the be- 
ginning, and every day a voyage of 
discovery. It's all very simple now, 
but it wasn't simple fifteen years ago, 
I can assure you." 

This morning in mid-September a 
telegram had come. The manager him- 
self of the great restaurant on Chestnut 



Street would arrive at ten, and some- 
thing must be wrong, since his time was 
precious, and he allowed few interrup- 
tions. The routine had become almost 
purely mechanical, — so many chickens, 
all "broilers," sent in daily, and a 
monthly bill for same paid as promptly, 
the great man himself seen hardly once 
a year, when he amused himself with 
a trip to the farm and a careful survey 
of any additional improvement. Even 
as she stood by one of the "runs," he 
was there, bowing profoundly, as he 
always did, and then, to her surprise, 
sitting down at once on the bench 
under the golden pippin tree. 

"It's a definite proposition," he 
began; and Mrs. Pearson started sud- 
denly, then bit her lips to suppress a 
laugh as he went on. "A definite 
proposition, madame. Make the sec- 
ond joint of your chickens into white 
meat, and you'll be a millionaire before 
you know it. What the whole world 
appears to be after is white meat. 
They all order it, and it's a fight to 
convince them that somebody has °;ot 
to eat the dark. With broilers it's all 
right. Any man eats the whole of one, 
and might call for another; but, with 
roast, all you can do is to divide in 
four portions, — two white and two 
dark. They see other folks with white 
meat, but won't see that there isn't 
enough to go round. Now I've been 
turning it all over. You've got more 
brains than any woman I ever dealt 
with. Can't you cipher out some way 
of whitening up the second joint, so 
there'll be three portions of white meat 
instead of two ? Ain't there some way 
of tying them up or something so the 
blood will run out? Cut 'em down in 
their exercise maybe ; tie 'em to a board, 
perhaps, like the Strasbourg geese" — 



i8o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



But now he stopped, for Mrs. Pearson's 
cheeks were red, and she shook her 
head decisively. 

' ' No, sir. No chicken in my runs 
gets tied to boards or anything else. 
What kind of flavor do you suppose 
there 'd be in a chicken brought up on 
a board? It's because I give them 
every kind of a chance, good as I'd 
give human beings, if I could, that 
they come to you as perfect as a broiler 
can be, if I do say it. It's healthy 
meat, tender and fine-grained, made 
out of the best food I can get, and 
fresh air and sun and water to match. 
No boards for me." 

The manager laughed a little un- 
easily, and now he looked around. 
What he saw was, as usual, a cleanli- 
ness almost fanatical, watei; and feed- 
ing troughs scrubbed and sunned, fresh 
gravel daily, and a care as minute for 
every perch or box. "Every hen with 
its hair curled and a white apron," 
one of the envious neighbors had said 
derisively, and certainly the fat, con- 
tented, softly clucking mothers of big 
broods seemed almost to meet that de- 
scription. It was incubator chickens 
only that turned to broilers when their 
short career was over. 

"When it's eggs I'm after," Mrs. 
Pearson said, "I want them laid by a 
hen that has come up naturally and 
been brooded and scratched for the 
way a chicken ought to be. But, when 
it's broilers with only six weeks or so 
before them, I don't mind turning 
them out by fifties, and just putting 
them straight through the regular 
course. I never thought I could make 
a big business of it, but I have, and 
it's bigger every year." 

All this went swiftly through her 
mind again as the stout gentleman 
looked at her meditatively, took an- 
other turn about the "run" in which 
all the prospective broilers were at 
present scratching peacefully, then once 
more seated himself before her. 



"It's this way, Mrs. Pearson. I 
turned it over all the way out. If that 
man Burbank in California can make 
white flowers into purple and red, and 
get six kinds of fruit into one, and all 
that, why shouldn't a chicken-raiser 
find out how to make chickens grow all 
white meat ? They say borax bleaches. 
Now what harm would it do just to 
try awhile? Give 'em borax, not 
enough to hurt, but enough to see if 
bleaching can't go on inside as well as 
outside. I'm in dead earnest, I tell 
you. I don't know enough about it to 
talk sense, maybe, but it'll be money 
in your pocket, I can tell you, if you 
can find a way." 

The manager's face was flushed with 
earnestness, and his twinkling eyes 
were serious. "Try it," he said, "and, 
if it won't work after you've done all 
you know how, why I'll pay any extra 
expense it was. Maybe electricity 
might work it, — borax and electricity. 
They say everything grows faster that 
comes under electric light influence." 

"I wouldn't have my chickens kept 
awake nights, not if it turned them all 
breast," said Mrs. Pearson, indignantly. 
"Other folks may try it if they want to, 
but I say a broiler has a short life 
anyhow, and it shan't be made mis- 
erable for money nor science nor any- 
thing else. When I stir in borax and 
electricity into a mess of chicken feed, 
you'll know I've lost my Senses. You 
may laugh if you like, but I love every 
one of them, — poor helpless things, — and 
treat them according; and I am pretty 
certain it's that and everything else 
to kind of correspond that makes them 
sort of famous, you might say. But 
I'm willing to study over it, and I'll 
ask the boys what they think. We 
interfere with 'most everything the 
Lord has put into the world, and I 
suppose the chickens have got to take 
their turn. If it comes to anything, I'll 
let you know." 

The manager rose, and looked sadly 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



181 



into the run. "It ought to be all white 
meat, and you'd think so, too, if you 
ran the kind of thing I do," he said 
with feeling. "Try it, anyhow." And 
now he bowed and hastened out to 
the road to the railroad station, and 
the mistress of the "runs" stood for 
a moment watching him, then sank on 
the bench under the apple-tree, and 
laughed till the tears ran. 

"Don't you worry, you poor dears," 
she said, for inquiring broilers were 
putting their heads through the wire 



netting. "Don't you worry one mite. 
No borax nor electricity for one of 
you !' ' And now she went into the house, 
and wrote a letter to the "boys," de- 
tailing the morning's interview, and 
asking if any scientists fooling with 
microbes was disposed to stop and see 
what could be done with larger quarry. 
And, as no white-meat second joints 
have yet been seen in the portions 
served in the great restaurant, it is 
safe to conclude that the matter is still 
under consideration. 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 

By Mary D. Chambers 

Part III 

Starchy Foods 



A DETAILED study of the 
starchy foods has usually been 
assigned to her classes by the 
writer at the close of the school year, 
for the following reasons : — 

i. In the fall term fruits and vege- 
tables are naturally studied, for not 
only do the markets then afford a great 
variety of these foods at a low cost, but 
many of the vegetables then in season 
furnish excellent material for the illus- 
tration of certain principles funda- 
mental to the proper cooking of all 
vegetables. For instance, green corn, 
which can be used with such facility 
to show the effect of salt on cellulose, 
and squash, or egg plant, which is ex- 
cellent material for illustrating the 
effect on flavor of high temperature, 
cannot be procured in the spring, or 
are available only at a high price, while 
in the fall they are cheap and abundant. 
The winter term is devoted to animal 
foods, and in the spring the more com- 



plex dishes, such as flour mixtures, 
puddings, etc., are studied, which in- 
volve the combination of both animal 
and vegetable foods. 

2. The study of starchy foods in- 
volves rather complex chemical proc- 
esses, and, coming to us as they do in 
a highly manufactured condition, de- 
mand better-trained observation and 
discrimination on the part of the stu- 
dent. 

3. The "flour mixtures," to the child 
of any age, are extremely alluring, 
stimulate the flagging interest resulting 
from the spring weather, call for the 
use of eggs when eggs are cheapest, and 
do not require the use of so many in- 
dividual gas burners when the room is 
warmest, since baking can be done in 
the general oven, which has, or ought 
to have, asbestos-lined doors, to pre- 
vent radiation of heat into the room. 
Therefore, for these reasons, economic, 
psychologic, and hygienic, the flour 



I 8(2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



mixtures and starchy foods are given 
in the spring term of the school year, 
which we will play is the present time. 
Note. — In the following lessons the teacher's 
aim, in the selection of material, will usually 
be given in the main title, the sub-title stand- 
ing for the student's aim. 

Lesson I 
Dextrin : its Production and Prop- 
erties 
Milk Toast 
Cut a slice of bread, one-half an inch 
thick, from an ordinary brick loaf, and 
dry it out at a low temperature, either 
in a cool oven or under the individual 
gas-burner, until perfectly hard and 
brittle. Then, slightly increasing the 
heat, let it get well browned all through. 
Dip quickly into boiling salted water, 
place on hot plate, and pour over it 
one-quarter a cup of thin white sauce. 
This is delicious when eaten at once. 

Thin White Sauce, Small Portion 
One teaspoonful of butter, one tea- 
spoonful of flour, one-quarter a cup of 
rich milk, a dash of salt. 

Melt butter (barely allowing it to 
liquefy, as butter fat is readily decom- 
posed by heat, and rendered less whole- 
some), stir in flour, add milk, and stir 
mixture until it boils. 

Savory Toast 
Prepare bread as before, and pour 
over it a brown sauce made in precisely 
the same way as the white sauce, only 
that well-browned flour is substituted 
for the white flour, and a bouillon made 
from Liebig's Extract (one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful to one cup of water), highly 
seasoned, is substituted for the milk. 

Toast Water. Old English Recipe 
Prepare bread as before, allowing it 
to become as brown as possible. Half 
fill a pitcher with the well-browned 
slices, then fill up with boiling water. 
Cover, and let stand until cold. De- 



cant liquid, which should be the color 
of weak tea, and serve, chilled, in tall 
glasses with a slice of lemon in each. 

Fruit Bread Pudding, No. i 
One cup of stale bread crumbs, half 
a cup of sugar, one cup and one-half 
of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
melted, half a cup of chopped dates, 
one well-beaten egg. Mix in order 
given, and steam one hour in but- 
tered pudding mould. 

Fruit Bread Pudding, No. 2 
Same as foregoing, only for the ordi- 
nary stale crumbs are substituted 
crumbs made by rolling and sifting 
well-browned toast. Serve with 

Jelly Sauce 

One tablespoonful of butter, one table- 
spoonful of flour, one cup of water, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, one heaping 
tablespoonful of apple or currant jelly. 

Proceed as for white sauce, adding 
sugar and jelly last, and stirring until 
jelly is melted. 

Corroborative Experiments 

1. Raw starch, from potato, wheat, 
corn, and rice, examined under micro- 
scope. 

2. Cooked starch, same varieties, ex- 
amined under microscope. 

3. Any one of the varieties observed 
in 1 and 2 tested with iodine. 

4. Raw starch blended with eight to 
ten times its volume of cold water. 
Let stand until completely settled. 
Does super-natant liquid appear to 
hold any substance in solution? 

5. Well-browned starch blended with 
cold water in the same proportion as 
foregoing, and allowed to stand and 
settle. Compare with 4. 

6. Decant liquid from 4 and 5, and 
test with iodine, test precipitate in 
each. 

7. In each of four small saucepans, 
or beakers, boil one half-cup of water. 



If Frowning Fate 



'83 



Stir into the first one tablespoonful of 
dry starch, into the second one table- 
spoonful of starch well mixed with an 
equal amount of sugar, into the third 
one tablespoonful of starch mixed with 
half its volume of butter, into the fourth 
one tablespoonful of starch mixed with 
an equal volume of water. Compare 
results after allowing to boil for a few 
minutes. 

References 
"Food and Dietetics," Hutchison, 
pp. 156, 157, 378, 383, 385. "Foods," 
Church, pp. 28, 29. "Chemistry in 
Daily Life," Lassar-Cohn, pp. 67, 86. 
"Practical Dietetics," Gilman Thomp- 
son, p. 133. 

Questions 

Compare the sauces for the savory 
toast and the milk toast. Suggest 
some method to make the brown sauce 
equal to the white sauce in thickness. 

Has toast water any nutritive value? 
What is the substance held in solution 
in this dish? 

Which kept its shape best, the fruit 
pudding made by the first method or 
that made by the second? Which was 
the more friable when cut? Account 
for this difference. What could be 
added to one pudding to make it of 
as firm a texture as the other? 

What is the most expensive variety 
of starch on the market? How is it 
frequently adulterated? What is the 



best way to detect such adultera- 
tion? 

What physical and chemical changes 
take place when starch is cooked in 
water ? When it is exposed to dry heat ? 

Account for the formation of agglu- 
tinated masses in experiment 7, cite 
common examples of the same in un- 
skilful cooking, and discuss various 
ways to prevent their occurrence. 

In what dishes could the successful 
methods employed in No. 7 be most 
appropriately used ? 

At what temperature is starch con- 
verted into dextrin? 

At what temperature, respectively, 
are the starches of potato, wheat, corn, 
and rice gelatinized ? 

Compare the effect of cooking on 
starch and on vegetable proteids. 

Why is cooking necessary to the 
digestion of starch by man? 

Name the chief starch-yielding plants. 
How has the characteristic "marking" 
of the various starch granules been ac- 
counted for? 

What are the chief cereal-producing 
countries? What cereals are most 
largely used? 

Is the term "carbohydrate" scientifi- 
cally correct? 

State precisely the chemical compo- 
sition of starch, cellulose, and dextrin. 
Account for their differences. Name 
other substances, studied in your chem- 
istry, which exemplify analogous dif- 
ferences. 



If Frowning Fate 



By Lucia W. Eames 

If frowning Fate should chance to turn, Through trembling lips, long dumb with pain, 

And, smiling sweetly, say to me, Quickly the answer back would fly, 

"Daughter, speak out thy dearest wish, "Oh, let me go, and humbly kneel 

And I will straightway grant it thee," Where one I love doth suffering lie, 

"And there upon his breast let fall 

My pitying tears so long repressed, 
Then, stroking tenderly the brow, 
L Soothe him once^gently into rest!" 



184 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Official Journal of the Boston Cook- 
ing-School. 

Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $i. 00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
Advertising Rates furnished on Application. 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine is sent 
until ordered discontinued, and arrearages are 
paid. 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the 
date on which your subscription expires: it 
is, also, an acknowledgment that a subscrip- 
tion, or a renewal of the same, has been re- 
ceived. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

When sending notice to renew subscription 
or change address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must 
know the name as it was formerly given, to- 
gether with the Post-office, County, State, 
Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second class matter. 



NO EXCUSE FOR SLOVENLINESS 

EDUCATIONAL attainments will 
no longer excuse slovenliness in 
dress and manners among women. 
This truth was the feature of the ad- 
dress to students of Bryn Mawr by 
the president, Miss M. Carey Thomas. 

First she recalled the much-discussed 
lecture of Henry James, in which he 
urged the exercise of more care in con- 
versation and writing and an effort to 
use purer English. But this, she said, 
was a detail of education, which the 
matter of personal appearance is not. 

The day of the college frump, said 
the president, was past, and she was 
glad of it. Slovenliness in dress and 
manners was no longer overlooked in 
a woman, no matter how brilliant she 



might be. As the college woman came 
to be less of a curiosity and her num- 
bers increased, she could not afford to 
be so careless of the little things which 
others of her sex regarded. 

Miss Thomas urged the girls to be 
tidy, and to see that they reflected credit 
on their Alma Mater when they ap- 
peared in public. She said that there 
was no tax which the college paid more 
cheerfully than that for water, and that 
there was plenty of water, hot and cold, 
in the buildings. 

This admonition is fit and timely. 
Young women should realize that neat- 
ness or cleanliness is a virtue. The 
care of self and one's environments 
reveals character. The rude, slouching, 
cowboy air, not infrequently seen 
among modern school-girls, does not 
augur well. It grates harshly upon 
the nerves of sensitive people. The 
fact that "manners maketh man" 
holds good even in the school or col- 
lege for young women. Habits of 
neatness and order are superior quali- 
fications in men or women, while the 
slack or disorderly is well-nigh intol- 
erable. 



AS OTHERS SEE US 
A CCORDING to cable despatch 

I \ to the Boston Herald, Professor 
±_ JLMaartens, the celebrated au- 
thority on international law, when he 
arrived in Paris lately, declared that it 
was a great relief to him to reach Europe 
again : — 

"Few men ever went through a 
harder strain," remarked the noted 
Russian. "We had literally no re- 
pose, even when we found time for a 
few hours' sleep. The atmosphere 
seemed charged with a kind of moral 
electricity. I think it was due to the 
nervousness of the American people 
who live normally only during excite- 
ment that would kill the average human 
being. I believe we have got the last- 
ing friendship of the people of the 



Editorials 



i8 5 



United States. Certainly, we are grate- 
ful for their touching courtesy. 

"The first thing I did when I got on 
board ship was to order a civilized 
meal. If I had passed two more weeks 
at Portsmouth, I would have had no 
stomach at all. They are a great people, 
our friends, the Americans, but they are 
wholly unconscious of the art of eating." 

That dyspepsia and nervous prostra- 
tion are prevalent disorders in this land 
of plenty is pretty generally known and 
acknowledged, but that ill-feeding is the 
chief cause of these troubles is not so 
clearly understood. People cannot 
stop to prepare food skilfully or to eat 
properly. The art of eating is tabooed. 
Its bearing upon the health and hap- 
piness is ignored. Hating is quickly 
done to satisfy the cravings of hunger. 
In the country, even where appetite is 
strong and active, so many people have 
bad teeth and poor stomachs; and 
these are due largely to food ill com- 
bined and poorly prepared. Surely, 
the culinary art cannot be neglected 
with impunity. 

ABOUT TYPHOID 

THE suggestion of a New York 
physician that country places 
where summer boarders are 
taken should be required to have a 
license, approved by the health authori- 
ties, showing that the place is sani- 
tary, is not a bad idea; but it is 
questionable whether a law of that 
kind could be passed in any State 
where summer boarders congregate. 
We now have laws requiring the in- 
spection of cow stables from which 
milk is sent to the cities, but no law to 
require farmers who take boarders to 
have the sanitary condition of their 
homes certified by competent authority. 
This fall, as every fall, there is much 
talk about the development of typhoid 
in persons returning from the country. 
One wonders sometimes why so few 
are stricken while away. They stay 



weeks or months at a certain place 
where no typhoid is known to be, and 
on returning home are soon prostrated. 
Is there something in the city air that 
develops malignity in germs that were 
innocuous while they remained in the 
country? There is no law preventing 
a person from refusing to go to a place 
the proprietor of which will not procure 
an official certificate of its sanitary con- 
dition. 

The foregoing suggestions are sig- 
nificant and worthy of consideration on 
the part of country housekeepers. 
While the requirement of a sanitary 
certificate may seem to savor of in- 
terference with private rights, certainly 
it behooves country people to see to it 
that their homes are made whole- 
some and kept so above suspicion. 
Disagreeable though it may be, the 
sanitary condition of many a country 
home is not what it should be. It is 
the chief source of dread and menace 
to the summer visitor. And in many 
instances the remedy lies, not in large 
expenditure of money, but simply in 
the thoughtfulness and personal effort 
of the proprietor. The country farmer 
who takes summer boarders has ample 
time at his command to make his place 
clean, wholesome, and attractive from 
every point of view, — this, too, with 
his own hands and free from any con- 
siderable expense. The advantages 
thereof are immeasurable. 



PURE FOOD 

A GREAT deal that is said about 
pure food is sheer nonsense. 
There are those who seem to 
think the reformation of the State de- 
pends upon an outcry against impure 
foods. The efforts of our Department 
of Agriculture and State legislatures to 
protect the public from adulteration 
and fraud in proprietary articles and 
the like should receive, and do receive, 
universal approval an<$ support. No 
part of governmental, wojrk is more 



i86 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



practical and serviceable than this. 
At the same time it is still true that 
our staple food products cannot well 
be adulterated, while things of doubt- 
ful character and quality should be 
always avoided. 

At any rate, protected as we now are, 
the danger of disorder from impure 
food is far less than that which arises 
from ill-prepared and ill-cooked food. 
The ills of life that spring from this 
source are untold. Malnutrition, un- 
suitably fed and nourished, is the pro- 
nounced cause of countless cases of im- 
paired health in city and town. People, 
who are over-scrupulous about many 
things, will relegate the preparation of 
food, which calls for skill and intelli- 
gence, to those who are utterly inex- 
perienced and unqualified for the task. 

"They who provide food for the 
world decide the health of the world. 
You have only to go on some errand 
amid the taverns and the hotels of the 
United States and Great Britain, to 
appreciate the fact that a vast multi- 
tude of the human race are slaughtered 
by incompetent cookery. Though a 
young woman may have taken lessons 
in painting and lessons in astronomy, 
she is not well educated unless she has 
taken lessons in dough." 

THE Cooking-School Magazine 
is high-class authority on 'the 
subject of cookery. In content, 
it is not only up-to-date, but eminently 
practical. Its entire strength is de- 
voted to a single subject. Practical 
housekeeping, without distraction or 
alloy, is its theme. With this, our 
Thanksgiving number, we send our 
patrons greetings and best wishes for 
hearty good cheer. As a Christmas 
gift, we want to receive, by the aid of 
our friends, 10,000 new subscribers. 
This is a modest wish. Will our readers 
respond? In return we will give to 
each earnest reader that which is of 
greater value than we receive. 



READ the advertising pages of 
the Cooking-School Magazine, 
where the very best of every- 
thing in the culinary line is represented. 
We are repeatedly urged to state where 
this or that item mentioned in the 
magazine can be procured. A careful 
examination of our advertisements will 
disclose the name and address of the 
proper dealer who can furnish respec- 
tively the utensil, appliance, or product 
referred to, and in each case the quality 
of the article may be depended on as 
strictly first-class in every particular. 

THE Life of Love and Service 
is the symmetrical life. And 
the Life of Love is the life 
which, in expression and action, gives 
wisely. It is not wise for one to give 
that which he requires more than the 
recipient. It is not beautiful to offer 
to another what the latter does not 
wish or may not receive. It is neither 
wise nor beautiful to regard one Soul 
as superior to another, even if that other 
is Yourself.— Maeter linck. 



When Elijah was utterly depressed in 
mind and ready to die of a broken heart, 
God gave him a quiet desert, far from 
distraction, then a good sleep, then a 
comfortable meal, then sleep again, then 
more good food, then a six weeks' va- 
cation. After that he recovered his 
spirits, and was greatly improved in 
his faith in God as well as in bodily 
condition . — Selected. 



Like the Greeks and Italians and all 
who represent the classic spirit in art, 
the Japanese have always regarded the 
adornment of a household utensil, the 
decoration of a room, the painting of 
a picture, as but various expressions of 
the same impulse, — the desire to beau- 
tify human life. 



Hearty foods are those in which there 
is an abundance of potential energy. 




Centerpiece with Small Squashes as Foundation 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is rilled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Oyster Cocktail in Red Pepper 
Cups 

Select medium- sized, sweet red pep- 
pers. Cut the stem end carefully, to 
allow the pepper to stand level on the 
plate. With a thin, sharp knife cut the 
opposite end in points, thus forming a 
cup. Loosen the seed receptacle carefully 
from the pepper, that it may hold the 
liquid. The pepper cups may be used 
to hold the oysters and the cocktail 
liquid; or, the oysters, set in place on 
oyster plates, may when eaten be dipped 
into the cocktail liquid in the pepper 
cups, set in the centre of the oyster 
plates. In either case let the oysters be 
thoroughly chilled. Serve five or six 
oysters as one service. For these mix 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of grated 
horseradish, three or four drops of 
tabasco sauce, one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of Worcestershire sauce, one table- 



spoonful of tomato catsup, and about 
half a tablespoonful of lemon juice. 

Cream-of-Oyster Soup 
Scald one quart of milk, half a small 
onion, two sprigs of parsley, and half 
a cup of celery leaves and stalks over 
hot water. Stir one-fourth a cup of 
flour with milk to pour, then stir into 
the scalded milk. Continue stirring 
until the mixture thickens, then cover, 
and let cook twenty minutes. Pour a 
cup of cold water over a quart of oys- 
ters, and look them over carefully, to 
remove any bits of shell adhering to 
the oysters. Strain the liquid through 
a cheese-cloth, then heat to the boiling- 
point. Add the oysters, and bring again 
to the boiling point. Skim, then strain 
in the thickened-and-flavored milk. Add 
a tablespoonful of salt (more may be 
needed), a generous dash of black pep- 



i88 



1 he Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



per, and stir in, little by little, one- quickly to the boiling-point. Let boil 
fourth a cup of butter. This quantity three minutes, then drain, and rinse 
will serve six. in cold water. When again drained, 




Oyster Cocktail in Red Pepper Cups on Green leaf-shaped Doilies 



Oyster Pilau 

(Luncheon or Supper Dish) 
Plunge a green pepper in boiling 
water, and then with a towel rub off 
the thin outer skin. Chop the pepper 
and a peeled onion very fine, then cook 
them in one-third a cup of butter 



add to the pepper and onion, with three 
cups of stock or water, a "soup bag," 
or a few sweet herbs tied in a sprig 
of parsley, four tomatoes, peeled, 
freed from seeds, and cut in large 
pieces, and a teaspoonful of salt. 
Turn the whole into a casserole, cover, 




Sucking Pig ready for the Oven 

melted in a frying-pan. Set three- and let cook in a moderate oven about 
fourths a cup of rice over the fire in twenty minutes or until the rice is 
a quart of boiling water, and bring nearly tender, then add from a pint to 



Seasonable Recipes 



189 



a quart of oysters, washed and freed 
from bits of shell. Carefully stir the 
oysters into the rice, add more salt, if 
needed, cover, and let cook about fif- 
teen minutes or until the oysters are 
well plumped. The liquor and water, 
rinsed from the oysters and strained 
through a double cheese-cloth, may form 
part of the liquid in which the oysters 
are cooked. 

Sucking Pig, Roasted 
The pig may be from four to six 
weeks old. One six weeks old, and 
weighing sixteen pounds, though rather 
long to handle easily, will be found 
most delicate eating. Wash, and wipe 
inside and out with care, rub over the 
inside with salt, and, if desired, black 
pepper. Fill the cavity with a bread 
or other dressing, and sew up the slit 
made in dressing the pig. Wrap the 
ears and tail curled over the back in 
buttered papers, fastening each securely 



in an upright position, resting on the 
legs pressed forward. Rub the out- 
side with salt and pepper, and dredge 




Thanksgiving Salad. Page 190 

with flour. Set to cook in a moderate 
oven. Baste every fifteen minutes with 
the fat in the pan or with butter melted 
in hot water. Cook from three to four 
hours. Turn the pig occasionally, that all 
sides and the under part may be evenly 
cooked. Serve with apple sauce and 
cabbage, celery, apple, or orange salad. 




Sucking Pig ready for the Table 



with a stitch. Put a cork in the mouth, 
to hold it open. Tie two or three 
strips of cotton round the pig to hold 



Bread Stuffing for Roast Pig 
Cut the liver in slices. Over these 
pour boiling water, and let stand ten 



190 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



or fifteen minutes, then drain. Add 
a dozen sage leaves, scalded in boiling 
water and drained, and three small, 




Stuffed Egg Plant 

mild onions, parboiled until nearly 
tender and drained. Chop the whole 
very fine, then add ten or twelve 
ounces of stale bread, pressed through 
a colander, a tea spoonful or more of 
salt, and a generous measure of black 
pepper (half a teaspoonful will be 
none too much for some tastes). 
Mix thoroughly, then mix again with 
one-third a cup of melted butter. 
A pig a month old will take more 
dressing than is here given, but pos- 



StufTed Egg Plant 
Cut the egg plant in halves, and cook 
slowly in boiling water about thirty 
minutes. Drain care- 
fully, then scoop out 
the centre from each 
half to leave a wall 
half an inch thick. 
Chop fine the portion 
taken from the egg 
plant. Add a table- 
spoonful, each, of fine- 
chopped parsley and 
green pepper pod, a 
cup of fine-chopped, 
cooked, chicken or 
veal, a teaspoonful of 
salt, paprika to taste, half a cup of to- 
mato puree or a raw tomato, chopped 
fine, and one-fourth a cup of soft bread 
crumbs, moistened with two tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter. Mix all together 
thoroughly, adding tomato or bread 
crumbs as is needed to give a good con- 
sistency. Fill the shells with the mixt- 
ure. Cover the tops with cracker crumbs 
mixed with melted butter, and bake 
about twenty minutes. Serve as an entree 
or as a hot dish for supper or high tea. 




Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style 



sibly this quantity may suffice, as 
none is needed to keep the pig in 
shape. 



Thanksgiving Salad 
Cut four peeled truffles into thin 
slices, and the slices into small squares. 



Seasonable Recipes 



191 



Cut four sweet red peppers into small 

squares. Add twice the quantity of 

cooked chicken-breast, cut in pieces 

rather larger than those of - 

the truffles and peppers, 

add as much sliced celery 

as of chicken. Dress with 

salt, pepper, oil, and A~ine- 

gar. Dispose on a bed of 

lettuce leaves, and mask 

with mayonnaise dressing. 

Garnish with curled celery, 

rings cut from sweet red 

peppers, and parsley. 

Potatoes, Vienna Style 
Mash hot well-cooked- 
and-drained potatoes, and season liber- 
ally with salt and butter. Add a very 
little cream or rich milk, and beat until 
light and smooth. Two or three beaten 
egg yolks may be added, but are not 
a necessity. The mixture needs be 
dry rather than moist. Shape into 
portions similar to a Vienna roll having 
pointed ends. Score each three times, 
to simulate the roll, brush oA'er with 
the yolk of an egg beaten and diluted 
with a little milk, and set into the 
oven, to become very hot, and brown 
the top. Serve with any dish with 
which mashed potato is 
called for. 

Sweet Potato Fritters 

Pare and cut in halves the 
requisite number of sweet po- 
tatoes. Cook until tender in 
boiling salted water. Drain, 
then pour over the potato a 
little brandy or wine, a few 
teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, 
and a generous sprinkling of 
salt. Let stand till ready to 
cook, then dip in fritter bat- 
ter, and fry in deep fat. Serve 
as any sweet potatoes. Drain 
the potatoes on soft paper as they are 
fried. Do not let the slices touch each 
other while draining. Keep them hot in 



the oven until all are cooked. A recipe 
for fritter batter was given on page 144 
of the October magazine. 




Sweet Potato Fritters 

Cranberry Jelly 
Boil one quart of cranberries and a 
cup of water five minutes after boiling 
begins. Let the dish be covered, but 
lift the coA'er, occasionally, to aA'oid OA'er- 
flow. The boiling should be vigorous. 
Pass the berries through a sieA'e. Add 
two cups of sugar. Stir until well mixed, 
and turn at once into an earthen or gran- 
ite bowl or mould. The mixture will not 
jelly in tin, or if it be boiled after the 
addition of sugar. Cranberries left on 
the stems upon which they grow form a 
handsome decoration for a mould of jelly. 




Cranberry Jelly 

Tomatoes, Shaker Style 
Take one quart of either canned to- 
matoes or fresh, cut in slices. Add a 



192 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper, 
cover, and let simmer half an hour, 
then add one cup of cream, mixed with 

















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Doughnuts 

two level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, 
and sugar to taste. Let cook ten 
minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls 
of butter in little bits, and serve at once. 

Cabbage Salad 

(To serve with Cold Roast Pig or with Oysters, 
Baked Beans, etc.) 

Beat the yolks of three eggs. Add 
half a teaspoonful of mustard, mixed 



radish, three or four drops of tabasco 
sauce, two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
and five tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 
Stir constantly while 
cooking over hot 
water until the 
mixture is thick and 
smooth. When cold 
and ready to use stir 
through a pint of 
shredded cabbage 
(cut the cabbage very 
fine), crisped in cold 
water and dried by 
wringing in a cloth. 

Celery-and-Apple 
Salad, New Style 
Cut tender, cleaned- 
and-crisped celery in 
quarter-inch slices. 
Mix with mayonnaise dressing into 
which grated apple has been stirred. 
Serve on lettuce leaves. Stir the apple 
into the dressing as fast as it is grated, 
to avoid its discoloring. 

Fig Cake 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Gradually beat in one cup of sugar, 
then, alternately, half a cup of milk 




Fig Cake 



for the table, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, one teaspoonful of curry pow- 
der, half a teaspoonful of grated horse- 



and two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with three level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Flavor with a tea- 



Seasonable Recipes 



193 



spoonful of vanilla extract, and beat in 
the whites of three eggs, beaten dry. 
Have ready between one-fourth and 



Fig-and-Nut Filling for Layer Cake 

Remove the stems from one-fourth 

a pound of figs. Let cook with a few 





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Butter laid on Sheet of Paste in which it is to be folded 



one-half a pound of choice figs, such as 
have a tender, silky skin. Cut each in 
two or three pieces, and drop them into 
the cake mixture, here and there, as it 
is put into the pan. Bake about forty 
minutes. When cool, invert the loaf, 
and spread with a boiled frosting, made 



tablespoonfuls of boiling water and 
sugar until well softened. Then chop 
fine. Add one- third a cup of English 
walnut meats, chopped fine, two or 
three tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, and 
a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and use as 
a filling between layers of cake. 




Shaping Puff-paste Patties 



of three-fourths a cup of sugar, one- 
fourth a cup of water, and the beaten 
white of one egg. 



Plain Pastry 
Pass through a sieve together two 
or three times, three cups of sifted 



i 9 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
and half a teaspoonful of baking- 
powder. AVith the tips of the fingers 




Patties ready to serve 

or a knife work in two-thirds a cup of 
shortening. When this is evenly mixed 
through the flour, gradually mix to 
a dough, using a case-knife, with cold 
water. From three-eighths to three- 
fourths a cup will be needed. Work 
the dough with the knife until all the 
particles of dough are in a compact mass 
and the bowl is clean, then dredge 
the board with flour, and lift the dough 
on to it. Turn it with the knife until 
floured a little, then pat and roll out 
into a rectangular sheet. Roll up 
like a jelly roll, cover closely, and set 
aside for an hour or longer. 

Puff Paste 
Weigh out half a pound (one cup) of 



rolling the paste. Add one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of salt to the rest of the 
flour. Rinse an earthen bowl and a 
wooden spoon, or the 
hands, in hot water, 
then in cold, letting cold 
water, changed once or 
twice, stand in the bowl 
some time, or until 
chilled. Then refill the 
bowl with cold water, 
and in it work the butter 
with the hand or spoon 
until it is pliable and 
waxy throughout. Then pat it into a 
thin rectangular cake. Take off about 
two tablespoonfuls of the butter, and set 
the rest aside in a cool place until ready 
to use. With the tips of the fingers or 
a knife work the two tablespoonfuls of 
butter into the flour and salt. Then 
gradually add cold water, and mix the 
whole to a paste. About three-fourths 
a cup of water will be needed. The 
paste should be soft, yet of such a con- 
sistency that it does not stick when 
kneaded. Dredge a magic cover (used 
on board and pin) lightly with flour. 
Work it in thoroughly. Then knead 
the little ball of dough until it is elastic. 
Cover it with the mixing-bowl, and let 
"rest" five minutes. Then pat it with 




Pie Completed 



Plate lined with Plain Paste for Squash Filling 



butter and half a pound (two cups) of 
pastry flour. Put two tablespoonfuls 
of the flour into a dredger for use when 



the rolling-pin and roll into a rectan- 
gular sheet. Have the sheet of paste 
a little more than twice the width 



Seasonable Recipes 



J 95 



and three times the length of the cake 
of butter. Set the butter in the middle 
of one-half the paste, the greatest 
length of the butter over the great- 
est length of the paste. Then turn the 
paste lengthwise over the butter, thus 
folding the paste in the centre, length- 
wise, and enclosing the butter. Press 
the three open edges of paste together, 
to include the air. Then fold one end 
of the paste over and the other under 
the butter. There will now be three 
layers of paste over and three under the 
layer of butter. Press the edges of 
paste together firmly. Then turn the 
paste around, in order to roll the sheet 
of paste in a direction opposite to the 
first rolling. Let "rest" about five 
minutes. Then pat gently with the 
pin, to press the paste together in ridges 
and break up the enclosed air into smaller 
bubbles. Roll the paste into a long 
strip, taking pains to roll the butter 
between the layers of paste and with- 
out letting the paste break through to 
the butter. Keep the edges even. 
Fold the paste, to make three even 
layers, with edges perfectly straight. 
Then turn the paste half-way around, 
so as to roll in the opposite direction. 
Let "rest" a few minutes. Then pat 
and roll into a sheet as before. Fold 
to make three layers. Turn half-way 
around. Pat and roll out as before. 
Continue folding, turning, and rolling 
until the paste has been rolled out six 
times. Begin counting with the first 
rolling after the butter has been added. 
When rolling the sixth time, shape the 
paste for the article or articles to be 
cut from it. If the paste is to be used 
for patties, roll it into a rectangular 
piece of such size as will give twelve 
rounds and no more, two on the ends 
and six on the sides. Dip the pattie- 
cutter in hot water each time before 
cutting down into the paste. This will 
insure a clean cut. When convenient, 
it is best to have the paste thoroughly 
chilled before it is rolled out for the last 



time. Then, when cut, it is firm and 
easily handled. Dip the small or re- 
verse end of the pattie-cutter in hot 
water, and cut out centres from half 
the rounds of paste. With a brush 
dipped in cold water wet the edges of 
the six rounds, and place the rings or 
rounds from which centres have been 
taken above them. Then with a spat- 
ula set the cases on a baking-tin covered 
with two or three folds of paper. Let 
chill on ice half an hour. Then bake 
about twent}^-five minutes. Let the 
oven be very hot on the bottom when 
the patties are put into it. Then, 
as soon as they have risen to their full 
height, cover them with paper, push a 
baking-sheet beneath them, and reduce 
the heat. When ready to fill, with a 
thin, sharp-pointed knife cut out the 
centre to the depth of one-fourth an 
inch, and remove uncooked paste, if 
there be any. When filled, the paste, 
cut from the rounds when the rings were 
shaped and baked on a separate sheet, 
may be used as covers. Reheat the 
patties before filling. 

Cream Filling for Patties 
Have cooked chicken, veal, sweet- 
breads, or mushrooms, cut in small 
pieces of even size. Parboil oysters, 
drain, and, if large, cut in halves. For 
each generous cup of material make a 
scant cup of sauce. Melt two table- 
spoonfuls of butter. Cook in it two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper. 
Then gradually stir in one scant cup of 
cream, rich milk, or white stock (chicken, 
veal, or oyster broth) , or half cream and 
half stock. When the sauce boils, add 
the cooked ingredients. Let the whole 
become very hot over hot water. Then 
use to fill the shells. 

Filling with Brown Sauce, for 
Patties 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter 
in a small saucepan. In it cook a slice 



196 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



of onion and two slices of carrot until 
the vegetables are yellowed and soft- 
ened. Take out the vegetables and 
cook the butter to a chestnut-brown 
color. Then add four tablespoonfuls of 
flour, with one-fourth a teaspoonful 
each, of salt and paprika. Stir and 
cook until the flour is well browned. 
Then add one cup of brown stock (beef 
or game broth), and stir and cook until 
smooth and the boiling-point is reached. 
Now add the cooked material, prepared 
as above, and fill the patties. 

Fruit Cups with Apple Sherbet 
Select red apples of tart flavor; cut 
in quarters, and remove any imper- 
fections at cores or elsewhere. Pour 
on cold water to rather more than half 
cover the apples. Cover, and let cook 
until soft throughout, stirring once or 
twice. Drain through two or three folds 
of cheese-cloth, and set aside. Boil two 
cups of sugar and a quart of water 
twenty minutes. Do not count the 
time until boiling actually begins, and 
let boil vigorously during the whole 
time. When cold, add one cup and a 
half of the apple juice and the juice of 
two lemons. Then freeze in the usual 
manner. Have ready a bowl of fruit, — 
preserved quinces cut in small pieces, 
the pulp of an orange cut in pieces, a 
maraschino cherry for each cup, and a 
few skinned and seeded grapes, cut in 
halves. Mix with these syrup from 
the quinces (peaches or pears may be 
used), a little of the liquid from the 
cherries, a little wine, if approved, and 
a teaspoonful or two of lemon juice. 
At serving put a spoonful of this mixture 
in a glass cup and some of the apple 
sherbet above. 

Squash Pie, Thanksgiving Style 
Cream one-fourth a cup of butter. 
Beat into it three-fourths a cup of sugar, 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and 
half a teaspoonful of ground mace. 
Add the yolk of three eggs or one 



whole egg and the yolk of another, 
beaten light, two tablespoonfuls of 
sherry wine, if approved, one cup and a 
fourth of cooked-and-sifted squash, and 
a generous cup of rich, creamy milk. 
This makes a filling for one pie. Bake 
in a plate lined with puff or a good 
plain paste. 

Ginger Balls 

(Mrs. Gibson, Dayton, Ohio) 
Cream three-fourths a cup of shorten- 
ing (preferably lard and butter, half 
and half). Gradually beat in one cup 
of coffee "A" sugar, then three well- 
beaten eggs (the yolks of six answers 
quite as well). Pass through a sieve 
together three cups of flour, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, and one level table- 
spoonful, each, of ginger and soda. Add 
these to the first mixture, alternately, 
with one cup of lukewarm water and 
one cup of New Orleans molasses. 
Bake in well-buttered popover irons 
about twenty-five minutes. The recipe 
makes two dozen balls. Two ounces of 
candied orange peel, softened in hot 
syrup and chopped fine, added to the 
creamed shortening and sugar, gives a 
variation good for occasional use. Do 
not omit the ginger. 



Doughnuts 

Pass together through a sieve five 
cups of sifted flour, half a teaspoonful 
of mace, one teaspoonful of salt, three 
and a half level teaspoonfuls of cream 
of tartar, and one level teaspoonful 
of soda. Beat one egg and the yolks 
of two more, add one cup of sugar, 
and, when well mixed, one cup of rich 
milk. Stir the liquid into the dry 
mixture, adding more flour, if needed, 
to make a soft dough. Take a little 
of the dough onto the board, pat into 
a sheet about an inch thick, cut into 
rounds, and fry in deep fat. Drain 
on soft paper, then dredge with pow- 
dered sugar. 



Menus for a Week in November 

S23Jjcre tfje plan of serbing begetafcles as a special course is once trteo, it toil! not be oiseontinuetf ; 
anti it is to be hopetJ trjat it toill become, not merelg an aooition to tfje menu, but mag supersede some of 
the Jjeaoier parts of tlje Dinner.—^. E. Mann. 



breakfast 

Grapes. 

Yeast Buns. Banana Coffee. 



c Dinner 

Boiled Chicken. Cauliflower. Chicken Gravy. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Egg Plant Fritters. 

Apple Tapioca Pudding. Vanilla Ice-cream. 

Coffee. 



Supper 

Hot Shredded Wheat Biscuit, Milk. 

Ginger Balls. Apple Sauce. Tea. 



breakfast 

Grape-nuts, Cream. 
Sausage. Baked Potatoes. 

Hot Apple Sauce. 
Rye-meal Muffins. Cocoa. 

Luncheon 

Creamed Haddock. Stewed Tomatoes. 

Yeast Rolls. 

Delicate Indian Pudding, Cream. 

Banana Coffee. 

c Dinner 

Cream-of-Onion Soup. 

Stuffed Hearts. 

String Beans. Mashed Potatoes. 

Date Whip, Boiled Custard. 

Coffee. 



3 

O 
w 

CO 

d 

> 



'Breakfast 

Cereal. 

Broiled Ham, Potatoes Hashed in Milk. 

Boston Brown Bread, Toasted. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Cream-of-Celery Soup. 

Apple Dumplings, Hard Sauce. 

Coffee. 

'Dinner 

Timbales of Cauliflower, Bechamel Sauce 

(Chicken Broth and Cream). 

Chicken Salad. Bread and Butter. 

Preserved Quinces. Cream. 

Tea. 



'Breakfast 

Broiled Fresh Fish, Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 

Baked Potato Cakes. 

Corn-meal Muffins. 

Cereal Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Succotash (Dried Lima Beans, Canned Corn). 

Entire-wheat Biscuit (Baking-powder). 

Doughnuts. Cheese. 

Cocoa. 

'Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons. 

Cold Stuffed Hearts, Sliced Thin. 

Sweet Potatoes, Candied. 

Celery-and-Apple Salad. 

Squash Pie. Tea. 



'Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cereal. 


Vermicelli Toast. 




Hamburg Steak, Tomato Sauce. 


Baked Potatoes. 




Rice Griddle-cakes. 


Waffles. Strained Honey. 




Coffee. 


Cereal Coffee. 




Luncheon 


Luncheon 


^i 


Salt Codfish Balls, Chili Sauce. 


Oyster Chowder. 


l-H 


Queen of Puddings. 


Cabbage Salad. 


o 


Coffee. 


Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 


> 


'Dinner 


'Dinner 


Boiled Haddock, Egg Sauce. 


Cream-of-Corn Soup. 




Boiled Potatoes. 


Egg-plant Stuffed with Nuts, etc. 




Cabbage Scalloped with Cheese. 


Tomato Sauce. 




Cranberry Pie. 


Custard Souffle. Sabayon Sauce. 




Tea. 


Coffee. 




'Breakfast Luncheon 'Dinner 




Cereal. Baked Beans, New York Meat Pie (Stuffed Hearts) 




Hashed Hearts and Potato. Style. Tomato Catsup. (Plain Paste or Biscuit Crust). 




Broiled Bacon. Hot Buttered Toast. Baked Squash. 




Breakfast Corn-cake. Hot Dates. Hot Baked Sweet Apples, 




Apple Marmalade. Roasted Chestnuts. Cream. 




Coffee. Cocoa. Te 


a. Banana Coffee. 





Thanksgiving Menus 

. . . It is mg tmtg to prate* @oo. Crjis is mg business : I 00 it, an* I call on gou to join in trji 
same song. — Epictetus. 

Dinner (Mens Society) 

Oysters on the Half-shell. 

Deviled Brown Bread Sandwiches. Consomme. 

Olives. Celery. Salted Almonds. 

Clam Croquettes, Sauce Tartare. Parker House Rolls. 

Young Rhode Island Turkey, Roasted, 

Chestnut Stuffing, Cranberry Sauce. Duchess Potatoes, Vienna Style. 

Egg Plant Fritters. Cider Frappe. 

Ham of Young Pig, Roasted. Madeira Sauce. 

Apple -and-Cress Salad. PIominy Croquettes. 

Squash Pie, Thanksgiving Style. Currant Jelly Tarts. 

Fruit. Cheese. Wafers. Coffee. 



Dinner, Children's Home 

Cream-of-Oyster Soup. Pickles. Crackers. 

Roast Turkey, Sweet Potato Stuffing. Mashed Potato. Giblet Gravy. 

Celery. Cranberry Sauce. 

Hot Apple Pie, Vanilla Ice-cream. Sweet Cider. 



Vegetarian Dinner 

Mixed Vegetable Soup (Unthickened). 

Broiled Mushrooms on Buttered Toast. Nut-and-Shredded Wheat Biscuit Loaf. 

Cauliflower Scalloped with Cheese. Cranberry Sauce. 

Celery-and -Apple Salad. Squash or Pumpkin Pie. 

Fruit Ice-cream. Fig-and-Nut Cake. Coffee. 



Dinner in Apartment 

Clam Broth. 
Fricassee of Chicken. Cranberry Sauce. Hot Baking-powder Biscuit. 
Sweet Potatoes en Casserole. Celery. 
Charlotte Russe. Preserved Ginger. Coffee. 



Thanksgiving Day Supper (25 Guests) 

1. 

Bouillon. Escalloped Oysters. 

Cold Turkey, Sliced Thin. Chicken Salad. 

Yeast Rolls. Tiny Baking-powder Biscuit. Olives. Celery. Salted Butternuts. 

Maple Ice-cream. Lady Fingers. Grape Juice Lemonade. 

II. 

Clam Broth. Ham from Young Pig in Aspic Jelly. 

Oyster Salad. Turkey Salad. Boston Brown Bread Sandwiches. 

Nut (Filbert) Bread Sandwiches. Fruit Cup with Lemon Sherbet. Coffee. 

III. {Family) 
Oyster Stew. Pickles. Crackers. Pineapple-and-Celery Salad. 

IV. 

Clam Bouillon. Olives. Lettuce-and-Egg Salad. 

Bread and Butter. Coffee. 

V. 
Brioche Buns. Banana Coffee. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By Janet M. Hill 

C '~1"" , HEN he said unto them, Go your way, eat the fat, and drink the sweet, and send por- 
X tions unto them for whom nothing is prepared." 

"Great suppers put the stomach to great pain: 
Sup lightly, if good health you mean to gain." 



IS it too strong an assertion to make 
that the prosperity and happiness of 
a country depends upon the cost of 
living? No matter what the wage, 
let the price of the necessities of life 
be high, and but little can be set aside 
for recreation, a "home," and the in- 
evitable rainy day. In order to make 
life a pleasure, the provident must 
provide for the future. 

For the last two or three years the 
price of all food supplies has been 
quite out of proportion to the income 
of the average family. Meat, poultry, 
eggs, and butter, have been rated at 
such a figure that they could not be 
included, except occasionally, in the 
supplies of families with Hmited in- 
comes. Even flour, the stand-by of 
all classes and conditions of people, 
has doubled in price. Thus it is with 
satisfaction that the promise of Sec- 
retary Wilson, of the Department of 
Agriculture, is received. Secretary 
Wilson assures us that in the near fut- 
ure the cost of living will be reduced. 
Mr. Wilson's belief is well founded, 
being based on the fact that this year 
there has been an enormous crop of 
grain (corn and wheat) throughout the 
States of the Middle West. Thus the 
cost of the commodities, which form 
the base of all food supplies, must be 
lowered; and the price of flour, beef, 



"poultry, eggs, milk, and butter, all 
of which are made directly or indirectly 
from grain, should be cut down accord- 
ingly. 

But any considerable gain in this 
direction cannot be for long. We are 
in the midst of changing conditions. 
Beef and poultry can never again be 
as plentiful and cheap as when the 
Western plains furnished free pastur- 
age for countless flocks, and turkeys 
of twenty-five pounds could be had 
for the hunting. However, in those 
days grapes, bananas, oranges, figs, 
pineapples, and dates were, one and 
all, luxuries brought to us from long 
distances and foreign lands. Even 
good apples and peaches were not com- 
mon until a comparatively late day. 
Now our annual crop of apples and 
peaches is the envy and admiration 
of the world, while small domestic 
fruits and berries are so plentiful that 
they are used commonly on the tables 
of all but the very poor. Dates, figs, 
and bananas have high food value; 
and, with the facilities of quick trans- 
portation which we now enjoy, the 
price of these is such as to warrant a 
free use of them. Indeed, tropical 
fruits would seem to be the items on 
which we are to depend in the near 
future for a cheap food supply. Ba- 
nanas, in Eastern cities, sell at retail 



200 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



to-day for from 10 to 15 cents a dozen. 
It must be a very choice banana for 
which 20 or 25 cents a dozen is asked; 
and, when the Panama canal is com- 
pleted, fruits can be brought from 
the Pacific even more quickly and at 
less cost. There are but few tropical 
fruits that the wonderful climate in 
California will not produce. With this 
outlook, have we not a promise of 
continuous prosperity and a cause 
for thankfulness? Let us not be over- 
solicitous for the future, but at this 
season, each and all, give from our 
abundance to him who is less liberally 
supplied. 

The Thanksgiving table should be 
bright, even vivid, with autumn's own 
colors. A lavish display of vegetables 
and fruits is, at this time, permissible 
for table ornamentation. The oyster 
cocktail, with which many a Thanks- 
giving dinner opens, may give the note 
of color, if cups cut from sweet red 
peppers be used to hold the cocktail 
sauce or liquid. If the pepper cup 
be small, let the oysters lie on ice 
around it. 

We have given roast pig in one or 
more of the menus. This dainty is 
rather out of fashion, we judge; for, 
though a large number is sold each 
year in the city markets, it holds no 
comparison to the fifty-two thousand 
consumed in the city of London in the 
year 1725. That roast pig is a de- 
lectable morsel, others than Charles 
Lamb are authority. 

An old French author refers to roast 
pig in the following lines: — 

"We loved him, silky-soft and plump and 
fine; 
And, now that he has felt the crisping fire, 
We wait his soul and body to enshrine, 
A morsel for an epicure's desire." 

The pig shown in the illustration 
was six weeks old, and weighed about 
sixteen pounds. Such a pig is rather 
too long for the oven of an ordinary 



range, and the platters of the average 
china closet, but it certainly proved a 
most delicate and savory plat. For 
aesthetic reasons a pig, boned and 
made into a galantine with forcemeat 
and truffles (a fit combination this), is 
often preferable, and has the added 
advantage of being easily carved. 
The cold remnants may be tastefully 
served with aspic jelly and cress. 

In November, game abounds in the 
market, and is well worth a place in 
the Thanksgiving menu. Partridges, 
being white meat, need thorough cook- 
ing; and, if roasted, much basting is 
essential, to avoid dryness. An old 
authority, whose name eludes us, says, 
"Partridges should have gravy in the 
dish and bread sauce in a cup." A 
lettuce salad, romaine preferably, 
dressed with oil and tarragon vinegar, 
is the proper accompaniment. 

Both oysters and puff paste in some 
form are thought by gourmets to be 
quite indispensable to a proper Thanks- 
giving feast. When raw oysters are 
discarded and pastry is reserved for 
the regulation pumpkin pie, why not 
try oyster croquettes? No more sat- 
isfactory entree can be imagined; and 
they may be made ready for the final 
frying — a matter of five minutes at 
most — the day beforehand, — an item 
devoutly to be desired when a meal 
of many courses is essayed. 

Pumpkin pie, time out* of mind, has 
been associated with the meal we cele- 
brate this month, because our colonial 
ancestors were supposed to have found 
pumpkins growing here on the land 
cultivated by the Indians, and from 
them evolved a new dish, — pumpkin 
pie. And now comes Elwanger with 
the assertion that pumpkin pie is not 
an American dish, but an English pie 
improved upon by the New England 
housewife. He asserts that three hun- 
dred years ago, in old England, a hole 
was cut in the side of the pumpkin, 
by which the seeds and filaments were 



My Jewels 



201 



removed, and the then vacant space 
filled with apples. Thus stuffed and 
baked, the product became pumpkin 
pie. 

In those days, in England, the pump- 
kin was raised under glass, so it is 
said. If this be true, we will venture 
the surmise that it was the aristo- 
cratic squash rather than the plebeian 
pumpkin that our English ancestors 
stuffed with apples and baked as a 
pie. Soon the New England Thanks- 
giving will be called a myth, engend- 
dered in the brains of those who 
were writing for a syndicate. Let us 
not give up the fight so easily. Pump- 
kin (not squash) pie is a dish of colonial 
origin, and the only fit pastry with 
which to commemorate the day. 

The ''left-overs" from a Thanks- 
giving dinner are usually worthy of 
considerable attention. After all the 
really fine slices of turkey have been 
removed, the bits of meat picked 
from the bones may be used for one 
of several really palatable dishes. Per- 
haps the most recherche of these is 
made by heating the aforesaid bits in 
cream sauce, and disposing them on 



buttered toast with broiled mushrooms 
above. If the mushrooms at hand 
be not suitable for broiling, break them 
in pieces, saute in butter, and use with 
the chicken and sauce in the form of 
croquettes. Failing mushrooms, crown 
the hashed meat with poached eggs. 
Chicken or turkey salad, made from 
these same bits, is a dish for any fete- 
day. Then there are creamed chicken 
or Turkey in Swedish timbale cases, 
puff paste patties, bread cases, or those 
made from boiled rice or farina. If 
the cook be unwonted to making these 
dishes, let her try risotto. Cook rice 
in broth, made from the bones, with 
tomato, slice of onion, etc., and then, 
just before serving, stir in the bits of 
meat, or turn the rice onto the centre 
of a dish, and dispose the creamed 
fowl around it. 

Sweet cider frappe is the proper 
punch to serve before game ; and, if 
the meal does not end with cheese 
(American), crackers, nuts, and Cali- 
fornia raisins, a fruit cup with apple or 
pineapple (on account of its digestive 
ferment) sherbet, as the base, would 
round out the meal to completion. 



My Jewels 

By Helen Knight Wyman 



Gems are mine, more rich by far 
Than the costliest diamonds are! 



For I have the sapphire glow 
Of the glorious sea, below; 
And the topaz rays I love 
In the sunshine up above: 

All the rubies that I know 
Pale before the sunset's glow; 
And the pearl, — I see it gleam 
In the fairy moonlight's beam. 



Green the emerald is, and rare, — 
Swaying trees are still more fair; 
And the violets, dew-kissed, 
Love I more than amethyst. 

Though an empress gave to me 
Crown and sceptre as a fee, 
For her gems I would not part 
With my own, untouched by art, 



For my jewels all may be 
Found in Nature's treasury, 
And the only price I pay 
Is to watch them lovingly! 



Care of Sleeping-rooms 



THOUGH a chambermaid may 
have charge of the sleeping- 
rooms, the waitress has the 
care of her own room; and many a 
time she is expected to care for all rooms. 
The same thoroughness of procedure 
that marks her downstairs work should 
be shown in her care of her own room 
or that of another. As soon as she is 
dressed, the windows, at all seasons 
at least partly open during the night, 
are thrown open both at top and bot- 
tom, to create a speedy circulation of 
air. Now draw the blankets from the 
bed and throw them over a chair in 
front of the window, taking care that 
they do not at any time touch the floor. 
Over another chair throw the sheets, 
and let both these stand where the air 
will circulate freely about them. Then 
turn the mattress. Empty and wash 
with a soft cloth, in hot, soapy water, 
pitchers, bowls, basins, and soap dishes, 
using a disinfectant daily in the water 
in which some of the pieces are washed, 
and occasionally for all the dishes. 
Use sapolio on marble and enamel. 
Used daily, no bad stains will appear. 
Leave all basins, faucets, and china 
absolutely clean, glistening, and dry. 
Then wash the clothes used in this work. 
Scald these with boiling water, rinse, 
and dry in the open air. Lay out fresh 
towels. After the breakfast dishes are 
put away, return and make the bed and 
dust the room. For the latter use a 
soft cloth, and shake it often in the 
open air. 

When a waitress has charge of all 



the sleeping-rooms, she usually attends 
to the opening of beds other than her 
own after the completion of her duties 
in the dining-room. In such cases the 
breakfast is usually served English 
fashion, from the table, which shortens 
materially the time of her service in 
the dining-room. 

The care of sleeping-rooms, often 
occupied continuously for seven or eight 
or nine hours, is too often hurriedly 
and carelessly attended to; but our 
up-to-date waitress, who has had a 
course in domestic science at school, 
has seen germs of disease gathered in 
the falling dust of a sleeping-room grow 
and multiply when set aside as a "cult- 
ure" in a dark place. She has learned 
that fresh air and sunlight are the surest 
germicides at hand, and will see to it 
that the air in all the rooms in her care 
is renewed daily, and all bed clothing, 
and that articles worn at night are in- 
oculated with sunlight. Of course, 
she will take the precaution to close the 
doors of the several rooms while this 
health-giving process is carried on, the 
halls and downstairs rooms having 
been aired earlier in the day, to insure 
a wholesome and comfortable resort 
until the upstairs rooms are again in 
order. 

Later, after the dining-room work 
for the day is finished and the rooms 
are unoccupied, the waitress visits 
them again. The toilet articles are 
restored to an immaculate condition. 
The handsome spread and the roll, 
with which the beds have been dressed 



The Up-to-date Waitress 



203 



for the day, are replaced by pillows, 
and a thin, light spread, to protect the 
blankets. The blankets and upper 
sheet are folded over to form a triangle, 
thus opening up the bed. If the 
weather be cool, dispose at the foot of 
the bed a down quilt, so folded or rolled 
that it may be readily drawn up by 
the occupant of the bed. 

Leave a carafe of cold or iced water, 
covered by inverting a glass over it, on 
a tray in a conspicuous place. Lay the 
night garments upon the bed, wrapper 
over a low chair, and slippers in front 
of the chair. 

Individual Trays 
Occasionally a member of the family, 
through illness or preference, wishes 
breakfast (or some other meal) in her 
own room. Perhaps a dainty, individ- 
ual breakfast service makes the fitting 
out of the breakfast tray an easy task. 
But, if the china closet does not yield 
this latter-day luxury, select the dainti- 
est ware at hand. Take linen without 
spot or blemish and glistening silver. 
Then, if cream or choice fruits (es- 
pecially in the case oi sickness) cannot 
appear on both tray and breakfast 
table, keep it for the tray. Consider 
the preference of her for whom the 
food is prepared, and let the eggs be 
"just right," the baked potato, crushed 
to let out the steam, be rolled in a nap- 
kin, and the toast made hot in water and 
quickly dried. Make your tray a pict- 
ure. Lay fresh fruit on green leaves, 
and, if cress or parsley be not on hand, 
find some bit of green on carrot or 
turnip root stored for winter use ; for the 
bright color that contrasts so happily 
with the delicate tints of broiled fish 
or chop or the white and gold of a 
poached egg will bring genuine pleas- 
ure to one shut in, and often your 
kind thought will be appreciated and 
held in grateful memory, even though 
verbal expression be not vouchsafed. 
The well-trained waitress, whose work 



in the dining-room is a source of pleas- 
ure to those whom she serves, needs 
no admonitions as to manners and 
conduct when admitted to the sick- 
room with a tray of food or a simple 
bowl of broth or gruel. The gentle 
shutting to of the door, the footfall 
that makes no sound, and self-efface- 
ment without servility, are acquisitions 
in daily practice by the skilful, well- 
trained waitress. 

Personal Qualifications and Dress 
of Waitress 

A waitress needs be quick and light 
of foot. Thus youth and a trim figure, 
not too large, are first requisites in one 
who wishes to make a success of the 
calling. It is needless to add that a 
quiet, unobtrusive manner is abso- 
lutely essential. A waitress needs pos- 
sess a mind unwearied by detail, and a 
willingness to cultivate nice ways of 
doing work. She needs an eye quick 
to see and a hand deft to execute. 

She needs to be able to tell at a 
glance whether the window shades ex- 
clude the right quantity of sunlight or 
the open window admits the proper 
quantity of air. She needs to have an 
eye that never fails, when an article is 
to be disposed in the centre of any- 
thing or two or more objects in exactly 
straight lines. Her first duty in regard 
to everything she touches is to "keep 
it straight." On all occasions she is 
to be neatly dressed and manicured, 
calm and unruffled. No matter how 
many duties claim her attention at one 
and the same time, she needs be de- 
liberate, self-possessed, and unhurried. 

In the morning the waitress wears a 
light print dress, a plain, full-skirted 
white apron, white collar and cuffs. 
Before serving luncheon, the print dress 
is changed for a light-weight, black 
wool dress. A more dressy apron is 
donned, and a black bow is added to 
the cap. Boots or slippers with soft 
(Concluded on page xii) 




Home Ideas 



AND 



Economies 




Contributions to this department will be gladly 
reasonable rates. 

Johnston's Loaf or " Amidami 
Bread " 

THIS bread is the invention of a 
baker of local fame, in a New 
England coast town; and the recipe 
has been given here and there, but 
never, so far as I know, put in print. 
Why it was nicknamed "Amidami" 
(accent on both "ams") no one seems 
to know, though one tradition is that 
a little girl, just beginning to talk, so 
named it. The baker always gave it 
that name, and so advertised it in his 
window. It became very popular in 
the region, and, we think, justly so. 
The recipe is as follows : — 

Scald one cup of fine, yellow corn- 
meal, one tablespoonful of lard, and 
one teaspoonful of salt with two and 
one-half cups of boiling water. When 
this is lukewarm (more or less accord- 
ing to the weather), add one cup of 
molasses, one compressed yeast cake, 
which has been dissolved in one cup 
of cold water, one teaspoonful of soda 
(in the yeast), and eight cups of sifted 
Haxall flour, added in two portions, 
and stirred thoroughly. Let rise over 
night. In the morning dip out by 
spoonfuls (with a wetted iron spoon) 
into the biscuit pan, and bake, with- 
out a second rising, in a moderate 
oven. Add a little more flour to the 
remainder of the dough, shape into 
loaves without kneading, and bake, 
also in a moderate oven, for about an 
hour, or until it shrinks from the pan. 

I HAVE never seen a recipe for corn- 
beef hash which was just like mine ; 
and I have never eaten any so good, 



received. Accepted items will be paid for at 

even in the best hotels. As it is my 
grandmother's recipe, faithfully ad- 
hered to, this may not be so egotistic 
as it seems. The secrets are two: 
first, to use hot fresh-boiled pota- 
toes, and to mash them so fine that 
there is not a single lump left; second, 
to use no moisture or fat whatever. 
The meat I put through the food- 
chopper, and then mix it so thoroughly 
with the potato that the two are one. 
For the rest I use the usual double 
quantity of potato to meat, and season 
very generously with salt, black pep- 
per, and a bit of cayenne, and liter- 
ally "to taste," for I always taste it 
before transferring it to the spider. 
When it is hot all through, I brown 
in one side of the spider a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, turn the hash over into 
this, and let it stand to brown. 

I WONDER how many cooks know 
that potatoes can be baked to perfec- 
tion placed just inside the door of the 
furnace. If the fire is very hot, they 
will need watching; but they bake 
in about half the usual time, with a 
moderate fire. 

SerKna. 

* * 

Renewing Sponges 

IN spite of the conviction that one 
is very "old-timey" in using a 
sponge for bathing, there is nothing so 
deliciously "sploshy" — to use a child's 
expressive word — as a sponge. Wash- 
cloths and bath-mittens are not to be 
compared to a good, soft, bath sponge. 

A sponge is as personal as a tooth- 
brush, whereas towels and wash-cloths 



Home Ideas and Economies 



205 



are given out each week to different 
persons. Many persons consider Turk- 
ish towelling, wash-cloths, and towels 
unsanitary, since the looped surface 
is not easily and therefore surely 
cleaned, and never use them at hotels 
and boarding-places. Sponges have 
been under a ban, which is rather a 
pity, since there is no reason why a 
healthy person should not own one 
of these treasures of the sea. Proper 
care is necessary to keep a sponge 
clean; and at all times, when not in 
use, it must be kept in a wire rack, x>r 
suspended in the air by some means 
that will not tear it. Do not use 
ammonia on a nice sponge, nor ex- 
pect those used for household work 
long to withstand applications of it; 
for ammonia will soon destroy a sponge. 

If a sponge has become hard and 
lifeless, try milk upon it. A druggist 
gave this information to a customer. 
The idea did not seem pleasant, and 
she thought sufficient milk to benefit 
the sponge would cost more than the 
sponge was worth. However, one day 
when polishing the leaves of a rubber 
plant with milk and water, she was 
surprised to find the fragment of 
sponge she was using much improved, 
and remembered the druggist's ad- 
vice. She then regretted having thrown 
away the greater part of the large 
sponge. 

Rubber sponges are on sale nowadays, 

to replace the natural sponges. 

Julia Davis Chandler. 

# 
* * 

The Attic Room 

WHEN you are building a new 
house or rearranging an old one, 
plan for a hospital ward at the very top 
of the house. I know it will be a long 
journey and cost many weary steps 
from kitchen, bath, and living rooms; 
but, after all, those steps are well 
worth taking. Even in the case of the 
simplest illness it is better for both 



patient and well persons that they 
be separated as absolutely as possible; 
and, when Johnny suddenly comes 
down with scarlet fever, or you suc- 
cumb to nervous prostration, you will 
be only too glad that such isolation, 
from contagion on the one hand and 
from noise on the other, is possible. 

Choose the sunniest of the attic 
rooms, have the walls and floor painted, 
and refrain from hanging pictures 
there. In the first place, they catch 
dust, never to be desired in a sick- 
room; and, secondly, the pictures 
that would be delegated to this apart- 
ment would probably be such as were 
too good to throw away, and yet not 
good enough to be welcome elsewhere. 
Works of art of this description will 
certainly not be a source of pleasure 
to an invalid. On the other hand, 
they may cause positive suffering; for 
sick folk have strange fancies, and 
a picture that is not really beautiful 
may give rise to painful impressions 
and distressing dreams. 

The furnishings should be severely 
simple. The most important article 
is the bed, which should be a high, 
narrow, hospital cot. This is a great 
improvement on the ordinary, low, 
household bed, as it allows the nurse 
to use her strength to the best advan- 
tage. She is thus able to move her 
patient with the minimum of discom- 
fort to him, as well as to save her own 
back and arms the strain of unneces- 
sary stooping. A chest of drawers, 
some plain chairs, a bedside table, 
and a wash-stand will complete the 
furnishings. For the latter I should 
recommend enamel ware utensils rather 
than the usual china ones, as the former 
are far lighter to lift and carry, and 
will not break. Have white muslin 
curtains by all means. They are easily 
washed, and they give a cosey air to 
the whole room, but, as for any other 
articles not really needful, repress them 
sternly. A sick-room that is crowded 



206 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



with furniture or ornaments will never 
be restful. 

You will be surprised to see how 
little trouble and expense it means, 
after all ; and in the moment of sudden 
emergency you will find your attic 
room of infinite use and comfort. 

Bthkl Williams. 

* * 

A Model Cottage 

I ONCE heard a lady who was living 
with her aged mother make the re- 
mark: "If we give up housekeeping, I 
should like a large room in a large house. 
I would rather have one large room, 
with my books, my music, everything I 
enjoy around me, than several minia- 
ture apartments." I thought she was 
right. The sense of roominess, if there 
were plenty of closets for storage, 
would more than make up for any 
nondescript character in the room. 

I recalled these words recently when 
reading a description of apartment 
houses in Los Angeles, Cal., where the 
possibilities of living in an inexpensive 
and convenient fashion are brought to 
a high state of perfection. In these 
flats, three rooms are made to do the 
duty of five, with the advantage of 
saving in labor as well as in space. 
Under the heading of "A Home in a 
Nutshell" a writer in the Overland 
describes these; and, as she shows 
how hopes may be gratified, a family 
supported on small income, happy and 
economic homes established, it reads 
like fairyland. 

The charms she discourses on are 
brought forward in the interests of 
Cupid; and, she adds, the advantages 
embodied in these flats may be used 
in a cottage as well. It was this that 
struck me as a particularly happy 
thought. We all know it is a great 
gain when any of the conveniences of 
the city can be adapted to more isolated 
houses, and my mind goes out to many 
home-seekers who might have what 



they desired placed within their reach 
by taking hints from the condensed city 
flat. A mother and daughter, sisters, 
or even two or three "bachelor maids," 
may set up a tiny establishment of 
their own, and, with housework re- 
duced to a minimum, find time for 
other occupations, whether teaching, 
floriculture, chicken- raising, or what not. 

We will suppose our cottage is limited 
to three rooms, — living-room, dining- 
room, and a pocket edition of a kitchen! 
The former, to carry out our idea, 
should be what would be considered a 
large room in any house. To do duty 
for other needs of a house, a double 
wall is put up on one side, with a space 
between the walls of from thirty to 
sixty inches, as the builder can afford. 
This will be no detriment to the other 
rooms, as it will help to make them 
warmer in winter and cooler in summer. 

Within this space are located bath- 
room, storeroom, closets, and bed- 
rooms. To describe the bedroom, we 
will step into the model flat. We see 
a plate glass mirror on the wall, which 
our exhibitor with little effort trans- 
forms into an inviting, comfortable bed. 
The bed is part and parcel of the house 
in its construction. The recess in the 
wall from which it sprung is closed 
automatically by the head-board, as the 
bed is lowered in position. Then there 
is the perfection of an arrangement for 
holding the blankets and sheets so 
firmly in position that, when the bed is 
raised for the day, each one hangs one 
and one-half inches apart. The space 
in which the bed closes should have a 
window, thus permitting the purifying 
effects of sunshine and fresh air all 
day, to prepare a more ideally healthful 
resting-place than any four-poster ever 
supported! Following the Japanese 
custom, every indication of a bedroom 
can vanish before one has even started 
to get breakfast. 

In other compartments of the wall 
space should be built in the bath-tub, 



Home Ideas and Economies 



207 



the closets, with at least a small window 
for ventilation, and bookcases with 
desk to be let down from the wall or 
folded at will. 

In the dining-room stands a centre 
table large enough for the meals of 
two. When more are expected, roll 
the table up to the door between dining- 
room and kitchen, and, with as little 
effort as the bed dropped, a table-top 
as magically descends from the door, 
hooks on to the centre table, when, 
behold, you can seat six people! 

This same door, which is really twin 
doors in the city houses, turns on a 
central pivot. On the kitchen side is 
attached a small gas stove, which 
turns with the door and dispenses with 
a servant by serving your dinner in 
pretty aluminum saucepans smoking 
hot at your elbow. 

If gas is not within the range of 
possibilities in our cottage, what is to 
hinder the lady of the house daintily 
serving the hot viands from the shelves 
of an Aladdin oven that has been 
doing its work, all unsuspected, in the 
corner of the room? But that is an- 
other story! Debora Otis. 



* 



The Bits of Left-over Soap 

THESE bits of "left-over soap" 
are among the things which an 
economical housekeeper feels that she 
must save with her own hands, if 
they are to be saved. Much has been 
written and said anent the matter. 

Toilet soap of a favorite sort, at 
20 cents a bar, we feel must be used 
down to the last scrap; and this is 
carefully laid aside until there are sev- 
eral pieces worn about alike. Some- 
times these are carefully moistened, 
laid one on top of the other, and set 
away to dry, when they may be used 
much as a new bar of soap, or carried 
away instead of a new bar, when one 
is traveling; and none is wasted. 
Then in the bath-room one may keep 



a wide-mouthed glass jar, which should 
be rather ornamental than otherwise, 
and into this can go all the bits of 
toilet soap used by the various mem- 
bers of the family, the remains of the 
bath soap, and of any good pure white 
soap, but no yellow or brown soap, 
although this will do no harm if it 
is added. When the jar is about two- 
thirds full of soap bits, fill it with 
boiling water, stir up the contents, 
and then stir in a handful of oatmeal 
or bran and a tablespoonful of glycer- 
ine or borax. We find it best to cut 
the bits of soap into small pieces, for 
they dissolve much more readily; and 
a very good soap jelly is the result. 
This may be used in the bath-tub, to 
make a lather for the body, the small 
quantity of yellow soap removing the 
odor of perspiration as no scented 
soap will ever do, or it may be used 
for washing the hands many times a 
day, and it will not prove injurious 
to the tenderest skin in the most se- 
vere weather, the glycerine and the 
oatmeal being both soothing and heal- 
ing, and the borax removing the dirt 
and softening the skin, making it very 
white. People who carefully remove 
all the dirt from their hands in the 
cold weather, dry the skin thoroughly 
each time the hands are wet, and then 
avoid wearing woollen mittens, will 
not have sore, chapped hands. 

Sometimes the thrifty housewife 
makes bags of cheese-cloth, and into 
these go all the soap bits that accumu- 
late, in the shape of powder, made 
by pounding the soap bits till they are 
fine. These bags are filled with oat- 
meal or bran; and, besides the soap 
and meal, a little orris may be added, 
unless the soap is already sufficiently 
perfumed. They are not filled very 
full, since the contents swell; and they 
are used in the bath-tub in place of 
wash-cloths, for the final soaping and 
rinsing after one has used the cleansing 
soap and bath brush. They are, of 



20J 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



course, a luxury, and give the skin a 
deliciously soft feeling. 

One housewife, known to the writer, 
saves all the bits of her own toilet 
soap, which costs 25 cents a cake by 
the box; and, when there is quite a 
little heap of soap shavings, cut with 
a sharp knife, the soap is nearly cov- 
ered with dilute alcohol, used about 
half-strength, and made quite hot. 
This seems to make a kind of jelly, 
which the lady uses on her hair, after 
the ordinary egg shampoo, because she 
feels that it is beneficial to carefully 
wash away all trace of the egg } and 
because the soap, which is also slightly 
perfumed after it becomes soap jelly, 
imparts a delicate odor to the hair. 

Sometimes pieces of scented toilet 
soap are put into an agate dish, cov- 
ered with water, and set in a cool 
oven, to become jelly, after an hour or 
two of slow cooking. This jelly is 
turned into a jar, which is kept cov- 
ered, and is used for anything that 
seems to need soap, being for many 
purposes much better than a bar of 
soap would be. The washing of fine 
laces and handkerchiefs, ribbons and 
silk neck pieces, which require a very 
little soap, and on which soap must on 
no account be rubbed, is always done 
in one home with the soap jelly. With 
this there is no temptation to rub the 
soap on the article, as when a bar of 
soap is used. 

Then, in the kitchen, the bits of soap 
left over can be used in an infinite 
number of ways. Keep a wide- 
mouthed jar on the shelf over the 
kitchen sink, and insist, in a tactful 
way, that all bits of soap be put into 
it. First of all, see that an ordinary 
bar of soap is cut in two pieces in the 
middle, before it is used; and many 
housewives have found it much better 
to hand out the soap themselves in 
these half -bars. One who has done her 
own work finds that a half -bar of soap 
will answer for all sink work and dishes 



for at least a week; and for scrubbing 
and the laundry a soap powder and 
soft soap will make the other half of 
the bar do all the work required of it 
in a week. Over and over again has 
the writer (who cannot bear to touch 
water with her hands unless the water 
is soapy) tried this allowance; and, 
in spite of house-cleaning time and all, 
there would be parts of each half-bar 
on hand at the end of the week. So 
this allowance is sufficient for a ser- 
vant, in a home of eight rooms, with 
three or four in the family. Put the 
small left-over bits in an agate sauce- 
pan, and place over the fire, covering 
them with water. The soap will cook 
down into a jelly, or liquid, which can 
be turned into the jar and used for 
dish-washing. This is far more agree- 
able to use, and better for the dishes, 
as well as for the hands of the worker. 
The box of soap powder, after the 
wash is done each week, is put over 
the fire and made into soft soap, fol- 
lowing the directions on the box. The 
small pieces of bar soap are often 
shaved very fine, and used in the wash- 
boiler on Tuesday morning (we don't 
believe in "blue Monday"); and, if 
bar soap is used for the laundry, it is 
first shaved and dissolved. When soap 
or soap powder is thus dissolved, the 
process seems to release some ingredi- 
ent which makes the same amount of 
soap do nearly twice the *amount of 
work that can be accomplished _by 
hard soap or powder. 

Mary Taylor Ross. 



* 
* * 



To Remove Fruit Stains from the 
Hands 

Fruit stains on the hands sometimes 
resist the best soap, but disappear 
quickly when the skin is rubbed with 
lemon peeling. Tomato skins rubbed 
over the hands are also effective in re- 
moving stains. B. F. 



Qtumma answers 



AND 



yjk 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be 
cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1069.— M. E. R., Pittsfield, N.H.: 
"How can one know what foods are suitable 
for those suffering from diabetes? Is there a 
book of recipes for preparing food for diabe- 
tics?" 

Food for Diabetics 
In diabetes all carbohydrates (starch 
and sugar) taken as food are eliminated 
by the kidneys as sugar. This process 
is accompanied by tissue waste and 
other most distressing symptoms. To 
avoid this condition of affairs, sugar in 
all forms and all starchy food are pro- 
hibited. In severe cases, sugar is passed 
in the urine even when the diet is 
closely restricted to fat and proteid 
substances, but in general the lives of 
those suffering from this disease are 
prolonged and the patient is much 
more comfortable, if the food be con- 
fined to fats (largely) and proteid. 
Of course sugar in composition (as in 
beets, dates, figs, bananas), as well as 
cane, maple, and milk sugars, are to be 
avoided. All the underground vege- 
tables contain starch, as do, also, all 
grains and products made from them. 
A study of Bulletin No. 28, Revised 
Edition, United States Department of 
Agriculture, on "The Chemical Com- 
position of American Food Materials," 
will be advisable. Spinach, lettuce, 
string beans, and cress, can be made 
the vehicle of introducing large quan- 
tities of fat (butter or oil) into the 
system. Eggs can be used in the place 
of flour for thickening sauces. We 
know of no really good book devoted 



entirely to recipes of this kind, but 
several modern cook-books devote some 
space to suggestions and recipes for 
the diabetic. 



Query 1070. — Mrs. W. B., Hamilton, Ohio: 
"Recipe for cookies made with sweet milk 
and baking-powder." 

Cookies with Baking-powder 

Cream one cup of butter. Beat in, 
gradually, two cups of sugar, two eggs, 
well beaten, and, alternately, one cup 
of milk and four cups of flour, sifted 
again with six level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Add more flour, if 
needed. Take a little of the dough 
onto the board, dredge lightly with 
flour, pat and roll into a sheet, and cut 
out into cakes. After the cakes are 
placed in the pan, dredge them lightly 
with granulated sugar. Bake in a 
quick oven. 

Query 1071. — O. E., Monroe, Wis.: "Recipe 
for salmon loaf and watermelon cake." 

Salmon Loaf 
Use one pound of cooked salmon 
(fresh or canned), freed from skin, bones, 
and liquid. Remove the crust from 
enough white bread to yield a cup of 
fine crumbs. Add these to the fish, 
picked fine. Add also two beaten 
eggs, half a cup of milk or white stock, 
a teaspoonful of lemon juice, half a 
teaspoonful of onion juice, a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped parsley, a 



2IO 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dash of paprika, and about half a 
teaspoonful of salt. Mix the whole 
together thoroughly, and turn into a 
buttered mould. Cook in a steamer, 
or in the oven, in a dish of hot water, 
about half an hour, or until the centre 
is firm. Serve hot, with a Hollandaise, 
tomato, or drawn -butter sauce. Slices 
of hard-cooked egg, or chopped pickled 
gherkins (sour), or capers, or pieces of 
cooked lobster meat, or shrimps, may- 
be served in the latter sauce. 

Watermelon Cake 
Make a white cake, using any fa- 
vorite recipe. Bake it in two layers. 
Leave one white, and tint the other 
pink with color paste. Have the pink 
layer at least twice the depth of the 
white layer. Sultana raisins or cleaned 
currants may be added to the pink 
layer, to simulate the melon seeds. 
Put the layers together with a very 
little white icing. Cover the top with 
an icing tinted green. 



Query 1072. — T H., Amherst, Mass. : 
"Recipe for Philadelphia ice-cream flavored 
with lemon, also a recipe for coffee ice-cream 
for four persons." 

Philadelphia Ice-cream, Lemon 
Scald one quart of thin cream. Stir 
in one cup of sugar, and, when cold, one 
tablespoonful of lemon extract. Turn 
into the can of the freezer, and, when 
this is properly adjusted, surround the 
can with crushed ice and coarse salt. 
Use three measures of ice to one of 
salt. Turn the crank slowly and stead- 
ily until it becomes difficult to turn 
longer. Remove the salt and ice from 
around the cover. Take off the cover, 
and lift out the dasher. Beat the 
frozen mixture with a perforated 
wooden spoon, then close the can. 
Draw off the brine, and add fresh ice 
and salt, — four or five measures of ice 
to one of salt. Cover the freezer with 
a piece of carpet, and allow the mixture 



to stand one or two hours, to ripen. 
For a cream of more fluffy texture 
scald one pint of cream with one cup 
of sugar. When cold, add the second 
pint of cream (uncooked) and the 
tablespoonful of lemon extract, and 
freeze as before. The flavor may be 
secured by scalding the thin yellow 
rind shaved from a fresh lemon with 
the cream. Wash the lemon and dry 
it with a soft cloth before taking off 
the rind. Avoid the bitter white por- 
tion of the rind. 

Coffee Ice-cream for Four Persons 

Flavor the above with from one-half to 

three-fourths a cup of clear black coffee. 

Coffee Cream Ice, Neapolitan 
Scald three cups of milk with two- 
thirds a cup of fresh-ground coffee. 
Strain, and return to the double boiler. 
Beat the yolks of three or four eggs 
with half a teaspoonful of salt. Add 
half a cup of sugar, and beat again, then 
cook the mixture in the hot milk as a 
boiled custard. Add a second half-cup 
of sugar, generous measure, strain into 
a cold dish, and, when cold, add a pint 
of thin cream, and freeze as usual. 



QuSry 1073. — Housekeeper, Stockton, Cal. : 
"Recipes with accurate measurements for 
making whole- wheat bread, white bread, rolls, 
and coffee cake with brewer's liquid yeast. 
Do you consider breads made with brewer's 
yeast as healthful as those made with com- 
pressed or dry yeast? Where may I obtain 
bread-stick pans?" 

Whole-wheat and White Flour 
Bread 

In making any kind of bread, the pro- 
portions of flour and liquid are as two 
and a half or three to one. It makes 
no difference whether the bread be 
mixed by hand or in one of the patented 
bread-makers, the proportions are the 
same. Whether two and one-half parts 
or more of flour be used depends en- 
tirely upon the brand of flour and in- 




BAKING POWDER 

(Absolutely Ture 

Royal Baking Powder has not its 
counterpart at home or abroad* Its 
qualities, which make the bread more 
healthful and the cake of finer appear- 
ance and flavor, are peculiar to itself 
and are not constituent in any other 
leavening agent. 

No other baking powder is so accurately 
and carefully made; no other can be 
substituted for it if the finest and most 
healthful food is required. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



dividual taste. Equally good results 
may be obtained with brewer's liquid 
yeast, compressed or dry yeast. Any 
yeast bread, to be healthful, needs be 
light and sufficiently baked to kill the 
yeast plants that have been the occa- 
sion of making it light. The formula 
for whole-wheat or white bread is: 
two cups of liquid (lukewarm), scalded- 
and-cooled milk, or milk and water 
half and half, two level tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, two level tablespoonfuls of 
shortening, if desired, one teaspoonful 
of salt, one or more cakes of com- 
pressed yeast softened in half a cup 
of lukewarm water, or half a cup of 
brewer's yeast, and from two and one- 
half to three times the measure of liquid 
i.e., two and one-half cups of liquid, 
and from six and one-fourth to seven 
and one-half cups of flour. Melt the 
butter in the liquid. Add sugar and 
salt, and, when lukewarm, the yeast, 
mix thoroughly, then add all the flour, 
and mix to a dough. Knead until 
elastic, then set to rise until nearly 
doubled in bulk, cut down, and shape 
into two loaves. Bake, when again 
light, about one hour. 

Yeast Rolls 
For yeast, use half a cup of brewer's 
yeast, or one cake of compressed yeast 
softened in half a cup of lukewarm 
water. Add the yeast to two cups of 
milk scalded and cooled to a lukewarm 
temperature, then stir in two cups of 
sifted flour, and beat the mixture very 
thoroughly for some minutes. Cover, 
and set aside to become light and 
puffy, then add two level tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, 
and one-third a cup or more of melted 
butter or other shortening. Mix thor- 
oughly, then stir in about five cups of 
flour. When thoroughly mixed, turn 
the dough onto a board, and knead at 
least twenty minutes. Set to rise, 
and when doubled in bulk, without 
eutting down the dough, lift it out 



onto the board, dredged very lightly 
with flour. Put the upper or firmer 
side down upon the board, then pat 
and roll out into a sheet as thick as 
desired. If thick, cut simply into 
rounds. If Parker House or other 
fancy shapes are desired, roll thinner. 



Work a Pleasure 

It is one of the Real Joys given us 

"Postum Food Coffee has done more 
for me in two years," writes a Wisconsin 
young lady student, "than all the 
medicines and treatments I had em- 
ployed to overcome the effects of the 
coffee poisoning that was killing me 
by degrees. 

' ' I had all the familiar symptoms and 
suffered all the well-known tortures. 
My stomach was wrecked, and I could 
not eat. My head ached almost con- 
tinually. I became the nervous vic- 
tim of insomnia, and the capacity for 
study deserted me. Of course, this 
came on gradually, and without sus- 
picion, for a long time, as to the cause. 

"Two years ago a friend enthusias- 
tically urged me to quit using the old 
kind of coffee, and to drink Postum 
Food Coffee. I have never regretted 
acting upon the advice. As soon as 
the coffee poison was eliminated, the 
strengthening and nourishing proper- 
ties of Postum began to build me up. 

"Each day I gained a ljttle, the color 
crept back to my cheeks, my limbs 
rounded out with new flesh, my com- 
plexion grew fair and clear again, my 
digestion improved, and now I can eat 
anything at any time. The nervous 
insomnia has left me, and I sleep sound 
at night, and wake up refreshed. I 
have no more headaches, and mental 
wdrk has become a pleasure to me. 
Name given by Postum Company, 
Battle Creek, Mich. 

There's a reason. 

Read the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville," in each package. 



Advertisements 



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WITH YOU soup making is 

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WITH US soup making is our 

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YOU have to buy, blend, boil, fret over it* 

WE attend to all that for you. 




SOUPS 



Pure, Savory, and Delicious, and equal to 
the highest grade of home-made 
soups. Costs but a dime and is 
prepared in a minute. 

JOSEPH CAMPBELL COMPANY 

42 Penn Street, CAMDEN, N.J. 



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o 



Polly, put the kettle on; 

We need a little heat, 
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To give them all a treat. 







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"JUST ADD A CAN OF HOT WATER AND SERVE" 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Bake, when again light, about twenty 
minutes. Five minutes before remov- 
ing from the oven brush over the tops 
of the rolls with starch, made by cook- 
ing two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch, 
mixed with a little cold water, in a cup 
of boiling water. Apply the starch 
several times. Bread- stick pans may 
be found at any good kitchen furnish- 
ing store. One or two such stores are 
advertised in our columns. 



QUE>RY IO74. 
spiced trout." 



Mrs. O'B. S. L. : "Recipe for 



Spiced Trout 

Boil the trout as for the table. When 
cold, cut into pieces for serving. Let 
a pint of vinegar, a piece of bay leaf, a 
teaspoonful of cloves, a tablespoonful, 
each, of mustard seeds and peppercorns, 
scald for half an hour, then, when cold, 
pour over the fish. Drain the fish from 
the vinegar before serving. 



The Up-to-date Waitress 

(Concluded from page 203) 
soles and low, flat heels, if any, enable 
the waitress to move about noiselessly. 
The up-to-date waitress is not super- 
ficial. She knows full well that dainti- 
ness, secured by cleanliness, must be 
part and parcel of her own person, as 
well as of the inanimate things which 
she handles. Her full morning bath is 
as much a duty as the clean plate on 
which the butter is passed at the table. 
She comes in close contact with people 
who are ultra-fastidious, and in their 
presence she needs present a dignified 
bearing. To do this, she needs maintain 
her own self-respect and the respect of 
those she serves. Thus she can ill 
afford to neglect any of the personal 
niceties classed as "minor moralities." 
The daily bath and immaculate under- 
garments are at the foundation of 
these moralities. Cleanliness is next to 
godliness. 



A bright little girl asked one morning 
at the breakfast table, "Mamma, is 
hash animal or vegetable?" "Animal, 
my dear," replied mamma. "Then," 
cried the little girl, triumphantly, hold- 
ing up a tiny bone, "here's the hash's 
tooth!" 

The Secret of Youth 

De Soto looked for the secret of 
youth in a spring of gushing, life-giv- 
ing waters, which he was sure he would 
find in the New World. Alchemists 
and sages (thousands of them) have 
spent their lives in quest for it, but 
it is only found by those happy people 
who can digest and assimilate the right 
food, which keeps the physical body 
perfect, so that peace and comfort are 
the sure results. 

A remarkable man of ninety-four 
says: "For many long years I suf- 
fered more or less with chronic costive- 
ness and painful indigestion. This con- 
dition made life a great burden to me, 
as you may well imagine. 

' ' Two years ago I began to use Grape- 
nuts as food, and am thankful that I 
did. It has been a blessing to me in 
every way. I first noticed that it had 
restored my digestion. This was a 
great gain, but was nothing compared 
in importance with the fact that in a 
short time my bowels were restored 
to free and normal action. 

"The cure seemed to be complete. 
For two years I have had none of the 
old trouble. I use the Grape-cuts 
food every morning for breakfast, and 
frequently eat nothing else. The use 
has made me comfortable and happy; 
and, although I will be ninety-four 
years old next fall, I have become 
strong and supple again, erect in figure, 
and can walk with anybody, and enjoy 
it." Name given by Postum Com- 
pany, Battle Creek, Mich. "There's a 
reason." 

Read the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville," in every package. 



Advertisements 



THE Y0UT25 
FOfc 1906 





THE NATIONAL FAMILY PAPER. 

Every member of the family has a share in the entertaining and inform- 
ing reading which The Companion brings into the home every week. 
The fifty-two issues of the 1906 Volume will bring to the subscriber 



7 SERIAL STORIES, each if 
bound in book form equal to a 
$1.25 volume. 

— r\ LEADING ARTICLES by men 

^11 and women famous in all the 
great vocations. 



^ ^ f\ CAPITAL STORIES by the 
£^\j most entertaining of living 



writers of fiction. 



1f\£\f\ NOTES on Current Events 
I PI II I and Discoveries in Science 
v v v and Natural History. 

ANECDOTES of the Wise 
and Great, Selections of 
Miscellany, Poems, etc. 

Illustrated Announcement for 1906 and Sample Copies of the Paper Free. 



|FA SPECIAL CONTRIBUTIONS 

I ^ 11 on subjects of the utmost inter- 
est and variety. 



2000 



EVERY NEW SUBSCRIBER 

Who cuts out and sends at once this slip (or mentions this publication) with $1.75 

for The Companion for the 52 weeks of 1906 will receive 
— — ^— All the weekly issues of The Companion for the rest of 1905. e 17 
T^ O OlIJ The Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Double Numbers. 
K lvCC The ll Minutemen " Calendar for 1906, in twelve colors and gold. 
— — — — As much reading in the year as would fill twenty octavo volumes. 

$12,000 will be shared equally by subscribers getting five other new subscriptions. Send for information. ' 



THE YOUTH'S COMPANION, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



Book Reviews 



Correct^. Writing and Speaking. By- 
Mary A. Jordan. 121110. Cloth. Price 
$i net. New York: A. S. Barnes & 
Co. 

This^volume^is_one of a series of 
practieal^books^ on^practical subjects 
by the best authors, prepared for the 
"Woman's Home Library." It is [a 
book to .read and study, andjput in 
daily use. By means of books like 
this the earnest, progressive home^is 
made better. It means the difference 
between good and ill-breeding, for it 
is true that culture is revealed in daily 
speech. To speak or write the Eng- 
lish language well, one must read and 
know the best that has been written, 
and then practise steadfastly day by 
day. Volumes like this are guides on 
the way to higher and better attain- 
ments. 



The Model Kitchen. By Lucy H. 

Yates. Cloth. Illustrated. Price 75 

cents. New York : Longmans, Green 

&Co. 

The old-time kitchen and that of the 
modern flat are widely different apart- 
ments. Recognizing this fact, and also 
that a new era has provided tools and 
materials to suit its own requirements, 
the author proceeds to describe in 
detail a model equipment for the 
kitchen of a flat and how to manage 
the same. 

Each of the twelve chapters in this 
book contains interesting and valuable 
information. The volume must prove 
instructive and helpful to large num- 
bers of housekeepers. 



The HygEia Cook-book. By Mary 
A. Heard. Boston: South End In- 
dustrial School Press. 
"Cooking for health" is the sub- 
title of this little manual of excellent 
recipes. The special point aimed at 



in these recipes is the elimination of 
all fermented material, or that which 
is liable to ferment easily, and thus do 
away largely with flatulent indiges- 
tion. Meat and fish are excluded from 
the recipes. In vegetables, grains, eggs, 
fruits, and nuts, the author says, 
we have stored-up life. These are 
genuine foods, and will build strong 
bodies for those who eat them. This 
idea has been carried out in the col- 
lection of recipes. 



A Comprehensive Guide-book to 
Natural, Hygienic, and Humane 
Diet. By Sidney H. Beard. Illus- 
trated. In art canvas. 50 cents. 
Philadelphia: The Broadbent Press. 
This book has been printed to sup- 
ply up-to-date advice concerning a 
reformed and fleshless diet. 

It contains a number of original and 
copyright recipes, together with a 
large amount of helpful information 
concerning fruitarian and vegetarian 
diet, hygienic living, artistic cookery, 
food values, etc. 

"The introductory chapters of this 
guide-book are quite enlightening. The 
bulk of the book, however, consists 
of practical recipes for a simple style 
of living, which is not only rational, 



To destroy disease germs and foal gases, the waste-pipes, 
sinks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot should 
be regularly purified with 




Chlorides 

The Odorless 
Disinfectant* 

Sold in quart bottles only, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
Address HENRY B. PLATT, 43 Cliff Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 




CHIL.DREM 




THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of " Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup." 




Simple 
Silver 
_ Science 

To learn it at our expense, 
simply send your address on 
a postal for trial quantity. 

£LECTRq 

ZZ Silver Polish * 

Silicon 

It's greatest brilliancy, least 
labor, absolute safety and long 
life for your Silver. At Grocers 
and Druggists everywhere. 

Trial quantity for the asking. 
Box postpaid 15 cts. (stamps). 



Electro-Silicon Silver Soap 

for washing and polishing 
Gold and Silver has equal merits. 
15 cents per cake. 

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COOK AND DE 

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DELIGHT EVERY COOK BECAUSE 
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HUB RANGES used and recommended by Boston, New York, Providence, Springfield, 
New Haven, and all the leading cooking-schools: could stronger indorsement be possible ? 

Manufactured and Warranted by SMITH & ANTHONY CO., 48-54 Union St., Boston 

Manufacturers of cooking and heating apparatus of every style and description. Sanitas Plumbing Specialties 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



but pleasant and appetizing, besides 
being humane." 

The contents of this book are worth 
reading and pondering. It cannot fail 
to interest and instruct. If it fails 
to convince entirely, it may lead to a 
modified form of diet, and an improved 
and more satisfactory way of living. 



An Old-fashioned Recipe for a Little 
Home Comfort. — Take of thought for 
self one part, two parts of thought 
for family, equal parts of common 
sense and broad intelligence, a large 
modicum of the sense of fitness of 
things, a heaping measure of living 
above what your neighbors think of 
you, twice the quantity of keeping 
within your income, a sprinkling of 
what tends to refinement and aesthetic 
beauty. Stir thick with the true brand 
of Christian principle, and set it to 
rise. — Selected. 

A woman cannot work at dress- 
making, tailoring, or any other seden- 
tary employment without enfeebling 
her constitution, impairing her eye- 
sight, and bringing on a complication 
of complaints ; but she can sweep, cook, 
wash, and do the duties of a well- 
ordered house, with modern arrange- 
ments, and grow healthier every year. 
The times when all women were healthy 
were the times when all women did 
housework a part of every day. — Har- 
riet Beecher Stowe. 



Professor Goldwin Smith, the dis- 
tinguished writer on history and govern- 
ment, has made two recommendations 
to labor unions. One is that strikes 
should be voted by ballot, the other 
that each married man should have 
two votes. The second suggestion may 
not be compatible with established 
principles of suffrage, but it recognizes 
that it is the family at home which 
loses or benefits by the strike, and that 
the case of the married man is therefore 
twice as important as that of the single 
man. — Youths' Companion. 

Of Timely Interest 
In renewing your own subscription 
send us three new subscriptions at $i 
each, and we will mail you, postpaid, 
a copy of Mrs. Hill's new book, 'Practi- 
cal Cooking and Serving"; that is, for 
$4 we give four subscriptions to the 
Cooking School Magazine one year and a 
copy of "Practical Cooking and Serv- 
ing." Can you not easily obtain among 
friends and acquaintances the names of 
three subscribers and so secure the 
latest and best of the cook books? 

This book contains 900 pages and 
over 200 illustrations, and is called the 
most practical, up-to-date, and com- 
prehensive work of the kind ever pub- 
lished. It contains a "liberal educa- 
tion" in the selection, cooking, and 
serving of food. It is for novice and 
expert alike and invaluable to every 
housekeeper. 



IF any dealer 

offers you a substi 
tute when you 
for the 




Sample Pair, Mercerized, 
25c. ; Silk, 50c Mailed 
on receipt of price. 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 

HOSE 

SUPPORTER 

Insist on having the genuine 

I f\(\V FOR THE NAME AND THE 
LUUlX MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON. 

GEORGE FROST CO , Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



Lea & Perrins* 



Sauce 

THE ORIGINAL WORCESTERSHIRE 




The Peerless Seasoning 

Some appetites need to be tempted. Dishes 
which are ordinarily flat and tasteless, may 
be made just the reverse by proper seasoning. 
Soups, Fish, Roasts, Gravies, Salads, etc., 
are given a delicious flavor by adding 

LEA & PERRINS' SAUCE 

Beware Of Imitations! There is no other 
near as good. 



Remember, Lea & Perrins' Sauce was in universal use a generation before any other 
so-called Worcestershire Sauce was ever heard of. 

John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 



Time-Tried Silver 

It is safe only to buy the kind of silverplate that has proved itself by 
time. There is a difference between the bare assertion that this or 
that brand will wear and the fact that 



,U 



1847 ROGERS BROS 



1* 



silverware has endured through actual service since its origin more 
than fifty years ago. Its reputation as " SiWer Plate that Wears " 
was won on its actual wearing quality. Remember this when buying 
and look for the trade mark your grandparents knew — 
" 1847 ROGERS BROS." All dealers sell it. Send for hand- 
some new catalogue " L-8 " 

MERIDEN BRITANNIA CO., Meriden, Conn. 

(International Silver Co., Successor.) 



£%' ^ 



' 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




With a Flavor All Its Own. 

Just ask your groc9r for a 1 or 2 lb can. (It's 
never sold in bulk ) Thousands of the best stores 
supply it, and there can be no excuse for refusing 
you, as it is easily obtainable by any grocer wishing 
to oblige. If you can't get it, write us full particulars. 

[NELL=WRIGHT CO., Principal Coffee Roasters, 

BOSTON AND CHICAGO. 




Exquisite 
Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

made witH 

Junket 
Tablets 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for 10 cents and give you the charming 
Brochure " Junket Dainties " free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory, 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



A Bible Baked in a Loaf of Bread 
There is a Bible in Lucas, in the 
State of Ohio, which was preserved by 
being baked in a loaf of bread. It now 
belongs to a Mr. Schebolt, who is a 
native of Bohemia, in Austria. This 
baked Bible was formerly the property 
of his grandmother, who was a faith- 
ful Protestant Christian. During one 
of the seasons when the Roman Cath- 
olics were persecuting the Protestants 
in that country, a law was passed that 
every Bible in the hands of the people 
should be given up to the priests, that 
it might be burned. Then those who 
loved their Bible had to contrive dif- 
ferent ways in order to try to save 
the precious Book. 

When the priests came round to 
search the house, it happened to be 
baking-day. Mrs. Schebolt, the grand- 
mother of the present owner of this 
Bible, had a large family. She had 
just prepared a great batch of dough, 
when she heard that the priests were 
coming. She took her precious .Bible, 
wrapped it carefully up, and put it in 
the centre of a huge mass of dough, 
which was to fill her largest bread tin, 
and stowed it away in the oven, and 
baked it. The priests came and 
searched the house carefully through, 
but they did not find the Bible. When 
the search was over and the danger 
passed, the Bible was taken out, and 
found uninjured. That Bible is more 
than a hundred and * fifty year9 old; 
yet it is still the bread of life, as fresh, 
as sweet and good as ever. — Zioris 
Herald. 

A Salt Mine Banquet 
On the occasion of the fiftieth anni- 
versary of the opening of the St. 
Nicholas salt mines at Varangeville, 
France, a banquet was given in the 
subterranean vaults of the mine, the 
walls, ceilings, and floors of which were 
of solid, glistening white salt, which 
scintillated like diamonds under the 
light from a thousand electric arc lamps. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

mil 



Advertisements 



The Luxury of 
Heinz Mince Meat 



Heinz Mince Meat is mince meat idealized — the good old-fashioned 
kind made perfect by modern methods. It has marked a new 
epoch in mince-pie making — a new phase to mince-pie goodness. 

In the preparation of Heinz Mince Meat the best of everything 
is used. Picture choice, fresh meat selected from the country's 
best output; rich, white suet; large, juicy, faultless apples; Four- 
Crown Valencia confection raisins, carefully seeded; plump 
Grecian currants of exceptional flavor, each one thoroughly 
cleansed and purified; rich candied citron, orange and lemon peel; 
pure spices, ground in Heinz kitchens — imagine all these blended 
with utmost care and precision, in cleanly surroundings, and you have 
an idea of what 

HEINZ 

Mince Meat 

really is — why it is different from any other — why it is 
better, better, BETTER. 

Cleanliness is perhaps the most important consideration in the 
preparation of an article like mince meat, and Heinz cleanliness 
has become a household word. This important characteristic of 
our establishment is interestingly treated in a beautiful booklet, 
"The Spice of Life," which we would like to mail you with our 
compliments. It tells you about every one of the 



VVEIAf> 



5T 

Varieties 



Heinz Mince Meat is put up in glass and stone jars of 
convenient sizes and is on sale at your grocer's. 

H. J. HEINZ CO., Pittsburgh, U. S. A. 

When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



I Like Coffee 




/ear/? Y drink itbeeaase 
It makes me dizzy&bilious 
& affeets my nerves, so 

I DRINK 

THE BEST SUBSTITUTE 

OLD GRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

ft TASTES GOOD A/VD 
/S VERY HEALTHFUL 



UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. Send for book of 43 prize receipts. 

WM. UNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, MASS. 



To obtain Flowers Quickly during 
the Winter Months 
Put quick-lime into a flower pot till 
it is rather more than half -full, and 
fill up with good earth. Plant your 
bulbs in the usual manner, and keep 
the earth slightly damp. The heat 
of the lime will rise through the earth 
(the latter tempering its fierceness), 
and in ten or twelve days you will 
have beautiful plants and flowers for 
your dining-room tables. 




Catch King of Tramps 

Special Cable to New York American and 
Journal 

Paris, July 8. — In the course of a 
raid by the police in the Champs 
Elysees, among the fifty individuals 
arrested was the dean of the Paris 
vagabonds. 

He is an old man known as "le Pere 
Lajoie," and has been arrested fifty- 
seven times for vagrancy. He refuses 
absolutely to go to the workhouse, 
because he says they don't know how 
to cook beans there. 

He should have been a Bostonian 
of culture, and not a Parisian tramp, 
to thus estimate the gastronomic delight 
of beans well prepared. 



A gentleman, speaking to a Sunday- 
school, asked what was meant by the 
molten calf of their lesson. A little 
girl promptly replied, 4 " It was a calf 
that was just shedding its feathers." — 
Christian Life. 

A pretty girl, a September bride, re- 
ceived the other day a unique wedding 
present from a friend "who keeps 
bees." In the elegant watered silk 
box which she first unwrapped was an- 
other box of silver, shaped like the 
crescent moon, on which was inscribed, 
with the date, "Your Honeymoon." 
the silver moon was filled with the 
most delicious honey that bees had 
ever stored up for the rainy day! 



When you;>rite advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




stands among the first of the good 
things to eat and drink at the na- 
tional feast, Thanksgiving dinner. 
A delicious beverage, it has all the 
healthful, refreshing, tonic qualities 
with none of the reaction of a false 
stimulant. Pure grape juice, bottled 
with care to keep its purity, is all 
it is. 

Sold by most druggists and grocers. In order- 
ing, it is worth your while to specify " Welch's." 
If your dealer cannot supply you, send $3 for 
trial dozen pints, express paid east of Omaha. 
Booklet with delicious recipes for beverages and 
desserts made from Welch's Grape Juice, free. 
Sample three-ounce bottle, by mail ten cents. 

The Welch Grape Juice Company 
Westfield, N.Y. 



Cooking made Easy 

Many Improvements in Ranges that interest all 
Housewives 

It is said that no housekeeper in 
New England thinks of buying a new 
range without first considering the 
famous Glenwood, with which is as- 
sociated the well-known phrase, "Glen- 
wood Ranges make Cooking easy." 

Until these ranges were made, no- 
body ever dreamed that an asbestos- 
lined oven could make such a differ- 
ence in baking. The oven has two 
shelves, which may be adjusted at 
several different heights, just a little 
way from the oven bottom or nearly 
to the top, giving the oven twice the 
room of other ranges. The broiler 
door swings downward, entirely out of 
the way of the hand that holds the 
broiler, removing that old danger of 
burning the knuckles on the edge of 
the door. The oven damper rod is in 
plain sight on the top of the stove, and 
directly over the damper, and is so 
short that it cannot warp or burn out. 
The ash-pan is large and roomy, hav- 
ing a strong, well-balanced handle for 
carrying, and is most carefully fitted 
to the hearth on all sides, which pre- 
vents the distressing nuisance of ashes 
falling around the sides and accumu- 
lating beneath, always experienced with 
a loose-fitting pan. The Glenwood 
oven heat regulator regulates the heat 
so plain and accurately that even the 
experienced housekeeper soon learns 
its value and depends on ft entirely. 

For more than a quarter of a cen- 
tury the Glenwood range has been a 
household word throughout New Eng- 
land, and to-day more Glenwoods are 
made and sold than any other make. 
It is acknowledged that the finish 



These trade-mark crisscross lines on every package. 

GLElTEIkF Mplin dyspepsia. 

SPECIAL D^rBE^C FLOUR. 
K. C.WHOLH^A/hrkAT FLOUR. 

Unlike all otl/r |*ds\ Ask Grocers. 

For b#k oysVmpl\ write 
Farwell & Rhines l Watcfctown,N.Y..U.S.A. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 



" Mixed with Brains. " 

As the old painter mixed his paints, so Bell's 
Spiced Seasoning is compounded. It is not a 
helter-skelter mixture of crude materials, but an 
exquisitely proportioned blend of pure sweet 
herbs and choice selected spices, so cunningly 
combined thatno one flavor predominates, but all 
flavors join to make that tantalizing, pungent, rich 
yet delicate effect known for nearly 40 years as 

BELL'S 

Spiced Seasoning. 

Good for all spiced dishes. Try this : 

SPICED BEEF. Chop two pounds fresh beef, 
enough to fill four cups. Soak two slices bread, 
either toasted or plain, in one and a half cups of milk and 
add to the raw beef. Cut fine two slices of fat salt pork 
and add to beef, together with three even teaspoon- 
fuls salt and Three Even Teaspoonfuls BELL'S 
Spiced Seasoning. Place in a buttered pan. Cut 
a piece of butter the size of an egg in small pieces and 
distribute over the top. Bake from 1 to 1 and a half hours. 

ASK YOUR GROCER for Bell's Book, containing 10 fine receipts. That 
alone is -worth the price of the / 0-cenl can. If he cannot supply you, write us. 

THE WILLIAM G. BELL CO., Sole Props., 50 Commercial St., Boston, Mass. 

Established 1861. _^_^__ 




THE LITTLE GIANT FOOD 
CHOPPER is " Perfection " 
itself. So small that it fits in the 
drawer of the kitchen table, yet it 
has all the strength and durability 
of the heavy, old-fashioned kind. 
Easy to turn. A child can operate 
it, no matter what substance is 
being put through. Easy to clean. 
Can clean in less than a minute. 
Four cutters with each machine, 
for hash, Hamburg steak, veal 
The "Little Giant" chops 
one pound of meat per minute. Feeds all the food through cut- 
ters, so there is no waste. Can use for preparing fish flesh, fowl, 
or vegetables. Send 50 cents to-day for chopper and free catalog 
of other useful things about home and kitchen. Add 30 cents 
extra, and chopper will be sent prepaid. 




loaf, croquettes, nut butter, etc. 



E. A. PERRY & COMPANY, 



Box 240. 



SAGINAW, niCHIGAN. 



SOMETHING ENTIRELY NEW. 



RULOFSON'S CALIFORNIA 
LAVA TOASTER. Makes delicious 
golden-brown toast without burning or 
drying it up. Placed under enamelled 
ware cooking utensils, prevents con- 
tents from scorching and saves enam- 
elled ware. 

TRY ONE. ONLY 25c. 
If you are not satisfied, send us your 
cash tag, showing where you purchased 
it, and we will return your money. 
For sale by all leading dealers or 
sent on receipt of 25c. 



A. C. RULOFSON CO. 

238 Crossley Building - - - San Francisco, 




DO YOU WANT YOUR MEAT ROASTED OR BAKED? 

BE SURE TO ROAST THAT THANKSGIVING TURKEY 



BREAST 

All good cooks agree that 
poultry should be Roasted 
Breast Do<wn, as the breast is 
then rendered moist and im- 
proved in flavor by the 
juices from the back. 




DOWN 

THE JAVEE ROASTING SADDLE 

Supports it in that position, as 
shown in cut, and will be sent 
prepaid to any address for 

TWENTY-FIVE CENTS. 



JAVEE MANUFACTURING COMPANY, 84 Woburn Street, Reading, Mass. 



you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 
xxiii 



When 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Quilted 
Table Padding 

is much better than the antiquated 

woven stuff. 

There are several reasons why. 

It can be washed, others cannot. 
It does not cover diners' clothing with 
lint or fuzz. 

It does not stick to the table when 

hot plates are laid on it. 
It wears twice as long as any other. 

These are the " whys " that have 
made it almost universal. 



ALL DRY GOODS DEALERS SELL IT. 



EXCELSIOR QUILTING CO., 
15 LaigHt Street, New York. 



IT IS MADE FOR YOU, 

The "Standard Rotary" 




Sewing Machine, 

To save your strength, your time, and 
assure you perfect and noiseless work. 
"Standards" are all one kind, the best. 

SHEPARD NORWELL COMPANY, 

BOSTON, riASS. 



of G-lenwood castings is unequalled; 
and this can be partly understood when 
it is considered that no workman at the 
foundry of this company can afford 
to mould an imperfect casting, as each 
piece of casting bears the number of 
the workman who made it. In case 
anything is wrong, the blame is thus 
easily placed. For some time past 
the interesting statement has been 
published by the makers of the Glen- 
wood range that "every seven min- 
utes in the day a new Glenwood is 
made and sold." 

At one of the Glenwood stores in 
Boston an old Glenwood range has 
been on exhibition for the past few 
months, which has a very interesting 
history. It was purchased twenty- 
three years ago by Mr. Alfred S. Ives, 
of Salem, Mass., and has been in con- 
stant use since that time until about a 
year ago, when it was exchanged for 
a modern Glenwood. Not a single 
warp or crack appears, and it is ap- 
parently as good as the day it was 
purchased. 

A Nonsense Calendar 

The Oyster is a stupid thing : 
He cannot dance, he cannot sing, 
He cannot even read or write, — 
Indeed, he isn't very bright. 

When in September school begins 

(A school of fish, I mean), 
The fishes come with shining fins, 
And sit in rows with happy grins, 

But Oyster isn't seen. 



He just 


lies lazy in his bed, 


Although 'tis day; 


And so to oystermen o'erhead 


He falls a prey. 




St. Nicholas 


Caller. 


"Where's your mamma?" 


Tommy. 


"At the literary club." 


Caller. 


"Where's auntie?" 


Tommy. 


"At the physical culture 


school." 




Caller. 


"Where's sister?" 


Tommy. 


"On the golf links." 


Caller. 


"Where's papa?" 


Tommy. 


"Gettin' supper." 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 




Beech Nut 

Gbnservei 

There are twenty-one different kinds 
of delicious conserves, marmalades, 
jams, jellies, prepared dates, and 

Peanut Butter 

prepared by the Beech-Nut Packing 
Company and put up in their famous 
air-tight glass jars, without any pre- 
servative. Each jar has the natural 
taste of the ripe fruit and contains noth- 
ing in the way of preservatives. Peanut 
Butter is a nutritious, appetizinp, health- 
ful, and valuable accessory to luncheon 
and picnic dishes. 

If you want to try these famous 
conserves, and cannot get them of your 
grocer, we will send twenty -four assorted 
jars, express prepaid east of Chicago and 
north of Richmond, $4.00; other points 
east of the Mississippi, $4.50; west of 
the Mississippi, $5.00. Only one order 
to a person. 

Beech-Nut 
Sliced Bacon ax&d Beef 

Sliced Bacon and Sliced Beef are 
put up in glass jars, under the famous 
Beech-Nut trade-mark, absolutely pure 
and of an unusual flavor. 

" Beech-Nut Bacon and Other Good 
Things," a booklet with some new and 
appetizing recipes, given free with each 
jar of bacon, or sent by mail on request, 
accompanied by the name of a grocer 
who does not keep Beech-Nut products. 

Beech-Nut Packing Company 
Canajoharie, N. Y. 






Table China and Glass 

Intending buyers will find an extensive stock to 
choose from in 



DINNER SETS 

($8 up to Poo.) 

ENTREE SETS 

(#7.50 to #60.) 

PUDDING SETS 

(#2 up to #20.) 

FISH SETS 

($S up to #375.) 



GAME SETS 

(#7.50 up to #135.) 

. D. COFFEE SETS 

($7.50 to $60.) 

ICE-CREAM SETS 

($3 up to £75.) 

OYSTER PLATES 

($3 up to $90 dozen) 



Also single dozens of High=class China Plates 

for course dinners ; also 
Bouillon Cups and Saucers ; Ramekins, 
all values ; French Porcelain Souffle 
Dishes ; Paris Cafe Entree Dishes ; Grape- 
fruit Plates and Glasses; Covered 
Gorgonzola Dishes ; Fire-proof Welsh 
Rarebit Dishes. 

China Individual Breakfast Sets on Tray, for serv- 
ing in the bedroom, up to, per set, #60. Guest-room 
sets, $1.25 to $31.50. Russian porcelain from the 
famous Kornilow Pottery at St. Petersburg, Turkish 
Coffee Cups with Silver Stands, also with Porcelain 
Holders, all values. 

In the enlarged Glass Department (2d floor) an 
Extensive Exhibit of 

Fine Table Glassware 

Finger Bowls, Vases, Tall Compotes 
for Bonbons, Cocktails, Roemers, Sor- 
bets, Creme de Menthes, Cordials, 
Lemonades, Champagnes, Sherries, 
Hocks, Decanters, Carafes, etc. 

Rare and odd China Pitchers from the ordinary 
up to the costly, some with mottoes. Over 600 kinds 
to choose from. 

Toilet Sets, Cuspadores, China Bathroom Sets from 
90 cents to $12, Umbrella and Cane Holders from 
$2 to $40, Plant Pots and Ferneries, Flower Vases. 

In the Art Pottery Rooms will be seen an ex- 
cellent exhibit of things adapted to Wedding Gifts, 
Rare Bric-a-brac, including Costly Paintings on Por- 
celain, also Japanese Satsuma. 

In the Dinner Set Hall (3d floor) will be seen an 
exhibit of the various grades of Dinner Ware. Full 
Services or Course Sets, from the costly designs from 
Mintons, the Royal Worcester, and Wedgwood, down 
to the medium and the ordinary values. Sets or 
dozens of rich plates made to order with crests, mono- 
grams, etc., heirloom treasures to be handed down. 
Rich Glassware also made to order with crest,mono- 
gram, etc. Wedgwood Old Blue Historical Plates, 
new subjects, J3 in all. A single plate (75 cents) can 
be sent by mail in one of our safety mailing boxes. 
Booklet mailed on application. 

Every price marked in plain figures, and we are not 
undersold on equal wares if we know it. 

Inspection Invited. 



JONES, McDUFFEE & STRATTON CO. 

CMINA and GZASS MEKCHANTB 

(seven floors) 
120 FRANKLIN, cor. Federal Street, Boston 

Street cars marked Federal Street may be taken from either 
railway station to the door. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A. New Daintx- 

_Rosette Waf ers_ 

Crisp and delicious— for breakfast, luncheon 
or afternoon tea. 

Made with the thinnest of batter and a novel 
little iron. Any woman can make forty 
of them in 20 minutes at a cost of 10 cts. 

All the best dealers sell these irons at 50c a set. 

If your dealer does not sell them, send us 70c 
and we will mail you a set postpaid. 

FREE- Mention your dealer's name when writ- 
ing, and we will give you a book of 30 new recipes 
telling how to serve these wafers, and our interesting 
catalogue of culinary novelties. 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 
1302 Washington Ave., S., Minneapolis, Minn. 



Please renew your own subscription 
by sending us two new yearly subscrip- 
tions at one dollar each. 

The Boston Cooking-School Magaziue, Boston, Mass. 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

For Wine Jellies 
Blanc-mange 
Charlotte Russe 

PURE AND WHOLESOME 

Our Pulverized Gelatine is the 
most convenient for family use. 
Dissolves in a few minutes. 

An 8-cent package 
makes two quarts. 
Cheapest and best. 

For sale by all grocers. 

S. S. PIERCE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 

(^Manufacturers' cAgents. 



Going for Yeast 
Unlike the most of the regular tasks 
of the properly trained, useful child of 
fifty years ago, when the boy, Ralph 
Waldo, like many of his class, filled the 
kitchen wood-box, set the table, and 
scoured the steel knives and forks 
daily, going for yeast to a brewery had 
an abiding charm for children, who, 
but for the weekly errand, might never 
have entered the locality where the 
brewery was located. . . . The old stone 
brewery, high up above a deep ravine, 
actualized my idea of a giant's castle. 
That beyond the vault-like room in 
the cellar, where a big man in a white 
apron filled our pails with a long-han- 
dled ladle from great jars, and mopped 
up the counter, and scooped in our 
coppers with impressive dignity, dun- 
geons could be found, gave me an early 
drill in "believing in believing." The 
sawdust on the floor, the grimy win- 
dow barred with heavy cobwebs, was 
fascinatingly associated with certain 
story-books I had been forbidden to 
read more. ... It was the rule to lift 
your pail cover and take a sniff. 
Strange that what smelled so good 
was so disappointing to taste, for taste 
we did, once at least, satisfied with 
the sniff ever after. There could be 
no loitering on the way home, else the 
mysterious byways leading off the 
main thoroughfare had been explored; 
but it was something to see, through 
the cracks in the sidewalk, fearfully 
close to our feet, the madly rushing 
waters of the raceways, to hear the 
hum of machinery, to watch for one 
thrilling moment a gigantic wheel that 
came up creaking and dripping from 
a black abyss to plunge headlong into 
blackness again. I had only to make 
myself believe, as I easily could, that 
it was alive, that suffering wheel, to 
experience the sensation that made up 
the day's enjoyment in a large degree. 
. . . "No yeast to-day," was some- 
times hung out by the brewery door. 
My friend, who writes poems of a fair 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 




Plain 
Elegance 




Our new plain designs in Ranges 
Have made a Hit. More artistic, 
handsomer, and easier to Keep 
clean. We are making more 

J Trawfbrd 

^^' (ooki ng-Remges 

than ever. Hut the demand is crowding' our manu* 
facturing facilities so that we have had to again 
enlarge the "finest stove foundry in the world." 



No Other Range 

has These Features: 

Special Features: 

Single Damper. This is patented. 
It is worth the price of the range. It makes 
baking quicker, better, surer. It saves fuel. 
Cup • joint Oven Flues. 

They don't leak. They utilize all 
of the heat. They insure better 
baking. 
Improved Dock - ash 
Grate. This is patented. It means a 
better, steadier fire, — one that will keep 
over night. It means a saving in fuel. 
4. Reliable Oven Indi- 
cator* Readable. Entirely outside 
of the oven, consequently not affected 
by grease, smoke, or dust. 
5* The Perfected Oven. 
Extra large, with asbestos-lined heat- 
saving back and five heights for racks. 
The quickest, surest baker and most 
perfectly controllable oven ever con- 

structed. 

The Range here shown is our new 
''EMPIRE ROYAL CRAW- 
FORD" a "hit" with those who 
love plain elegance and those who 
appreciate the ease with which such 
a Range can be kept clean and 
bright. 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue 

Crawford's have more Improvements than all other ranges combined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 3 1 -35 Union Street, BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvii 



Advertisements 




«£eo. % CUts Co 

272 €ongre£g Street 





Jllttstrating: 
Printing: 
& 35mmngf 
of ^Sooks 
iHaffa^inee, Cat 
aloffg, anti Pam 
pblets, lam antt 
EatlroaU OTotfc 
Posters, ©ffice 
Stationer?, etc 






Travel <with Speed, 
Comfort, Safety 

BETWEEN 

New York and 
Philadelphia 

via 

New Jersey Central 

(Train Every Hour on the Hour) 

PULLMAN PARLOR CARS. OBSERVA- 
TION AND CAFE CARS. NO DUST, 
SMOKE OR DIRT. 


NINETY MILES 
IN TWO HOURS 


NE W YORK 1 Foot West 23d Street, N.R. 
STATIONS :\ Foot Liberty Street, N.R. 





sort, and who used to carry a yeast 
pail, is saying she would give some- 
thing for that old signboard to hang 
up in her workshop at times. — The At- 
lantic. 

The Seville Packing Company of 
202 Franklin Street, New York City, 
have recently issued a one hundred 
thousand edition of a beautifully il- 
lustrated salad recipe book, entitled 
"Salads, how to Make and Serve 
Them." This is far and away the 
most "up-to-date" booklet that has 
ever come to our attention, contain- 
ing, as it does, not only recipes of the 
most noted authorities of the culinary 
art, but it is also beautifully illustrated 
with half-tones of the finished dishes. 

It is gotten out to advertise Nicelle 
Olive Oil, only to those who have 
never given it a trial. It needs no 
advertising where it has been tried. 
This is the brand of oil which was 
found by the United States Bureau 
of Chemistry tests to be superior to 
all other brands. Messrs. Still well & 
Gladding, official chemists to the New 
York Produce Exchange, say that the 
figures prove conclusively that it was 
superior to all brands tested. 

The Seville Packing Company will 
send a copy of this booklet without 
charge upon request, if you mention 
this publication. 



Housekeepers 

Scrape your plates and dishes 
with "Kitchen Kumfort " 

Plate Cleaner. The new san- 
itary way. Takes off all grease 
and refuse before washing. Made of rubber, will not scratch the 
finest china. Saves your hands from greasy dish water, keeps them 
soft and white. Fine for cleaning sinks. A household necessity. 
Price, 25 cents postpaid. Send to-day. e 

C. W. LASHER r\FG. CO., Department A, Davenport, la. 





DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Company, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 






%,S\--r"- 



THE 



VLN 



OT CULINARY 

SCIENCE 



YOL.X 



ANC DOME S: 1 It-' 



N0.v5 



r* "A 



V 



fe 



\\ =' 



%& 






DECEMBER 190S* 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE 
372 Boylston St. B© ?ton Ma s s . 



io*ACOPY 



^tOO A YEAR 



Best of the High Grade 
Powders 



Rumford 

The Wholesome 

Baking' Powder 



A scientific preparation, being the result 
of extended research by the celebrated Chem- 
ist, Professor Horsford, for many years Pro- 
fessor of Chemistry in Harvard University. 

It is not only endorsed by most eminent 
authority for its Purity and Wholesomeness, 
but receives the commendation of the best 
housekeepers and teachers of cookery in 
America, for the light, delicate food made 
by its use, its great strength, and keeping 
qualities. 

A PERFECT BAKING POWDER. 

RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R.I. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



€f)ri£tttia£ 2Dinner$ 



MENUS 
i. 

Hot Canapes of Mushroom Caps and Oysters. 
Game Broth with Rice. 

Oyster Croquettes, Sauce Tartare. 
Roast Goose, Canned Gooseberry Sauce. 

Potatoes Scalloped with Onion Juice, Parsley, etc. 

Artichoke Bottoms with Spinach Quenelles, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Roast Loin of Venison, Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce. 

Romaine Salad. 

Mince Pie. Nesselrode Pudding. 

Nuts. Grapes. Bonbons. Coffee. 



II. 

Small Shrimp Patties. 
Consomme with Chicken Quenelles. 
Fried Smelts, Log Cabin Fashion, Sauce Tartare. 

Fillets of Lamb on Artichoke Bottoms. 

Young Goose Roasted without Stuffing. 
Apple-and-Barberry Jelly. 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Style. 

Brussels Sprouts in Cream. 
Boiled Ham and Chicken Moulded in Aspic Cutlets. Cress, French Dressing. 
Mince Pie. Chestnut Bombe Glace. 
Tangerine Oranges. Lady Apples. Bonbons. Coffee. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



DECEMBER 



No. 5. 




" A Suggestion for Each Member of the Family 



Some Suggestions for Christmas 

By May Ellis Nichols 



MUCH has been said, and 
truthfully, about the abuse 
of Christmas giving; but, as 
long as Christinas commemorates God's 
greatest gift to man, it will be kept by 
making presents to those we love. 

"Yes, but what shall I give?" The 
question is asked curiously in June, 



anxiously in October, desperatelv in 
December. 

The answer is twofold. Give some- 
thing the recipient wants, and some- 
thing that you can afford to give. 
We do not quite believe the stories 
about the woman who presented her 
husband with a sewing machine and 



214 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Bureau Cover of Embroidered Handkerchiefs 



received a fine hunting rifle in return; 
but Mary is sometimes tempted to 
give mother that pretty handkerchief, 
because she knows she will be welcome 
to carry it herself, or, worse still, the 
cut-glass dish that she, Mary, admires 
so much, even though she knows per- 
fectly well that mother is longing for 
the two or three bouillon spoons neces- 
sary to complete her set. Perhaps you 
do not know what some friend wants. 
Look carefully to see if there is not 
something that she really needs for her 
comfort or pleasure. Last Christmas 
a woman, who apparently had every- 
thing that even an exacting heart could 
desire, received a pair of bedroom slip- 
pers, and confessed with her thanks that 
she had needed them for years, but 
obstinately refrained from buying them 
for herself, "because," she said, "it 
was so humiliating. No one ever has 
to buy bedroom slippers for herself who 
has any friends." 

Having then discovered something 
that would be acceptable, if possible, 



make it yourself; but, if it must be 
bought outright, put all the thought 
and love you can give into the purchase, 
remembering that ' ' the gift without the 
giver is bare." For the happy woman, 
who has time really to make her gifts, 
here is a suggestion for each member 
of the family. The remembrance for 
mother is one that little fingers can 
fashion, — five dozen quarter-inch brass 
rings woven in and out on red ribbon, 
with a chamois thimble-bag and red 
emery on one end, balanced* by a pair 
of tiny scissors on the other. The 
thimble and scissors may be silver or 
even gold mounted if desired. She 
certainly deserves the best to be found, 
and it is to be hoped that the holes in 
Tom's stocking knee may not seem 
quite so large with this bright chain 
about her neck. 

For father there is a coat-hanger, one 
of those wooden frames, padded and 
perfumed and covered with shirred 
ribbon. "Too feminine," some one 
says. Not necessarily. It need not be 



Suggestions for Christmas 



215 



made of white nor pink nor blue, like 
those for your waists, but covered with 
black or dark green, with the hook 
wound in red holly-sprayed ribbon. It 
is " Christmasy , " and still quite suited 
to masculine dignity. 

Next comes Elizabeth, who was 
married two years ago, and covets 
pretty things for her guest-room. This 
bureau cover will appeal to her. It is 
made of three embroidered handker- 
chiefs joined with beading and insertion, 
with blue ribbons run in to match her 
blue room, and the whole finished with 
lace about the edge. If one wanted 
to make the gift more ambitious, pillow 
shams or bolster cover could be made to 
match. Indeed, there are great pos- 
sibilities in handkerchiefs. There could 
be nothing prettier to give the baby 
than a pillow-case made from one, with 
an embroidered and hemstitched edge 
or the embroidered initial corner. In 
either case, it is enlarged by a row of 
lace, and, if desired, another of em- 
broidery, and finished with a ruffle of 
fine embroidery or of hemstitching and 
lace. 

Margaret is going away after Christ- 



mas; and what could be better for her 
than this pin roll ? It is made of dark 
brocaded silk or satin, padded and lined 
with some delicate-colored silk, and 
filled with pins, "big, little, and middle- 
sized," black, white, pink, purple, and 
blue, besides black and white safety 
pins of assorted sizes. The pin roll 
might be accompanied by a second case, 
made with the same kind of cover, but 
lined with rubber cloth, for soap, tooth- 
brush, and wash-cloth. 

Now for six-year-old Ruth. If you 
want to make her perfectly happy, give 
her a "wonder bag." "What is a 
wonder bag ? " Just a bright red muslin 
bag with seven green pockets inside, 
each pocket filled and securely pinned 
at the top with a safety pin. One 
pocket, and only one, is to be opened 
each day for a week. Bach member 
of the family may contribute to the 
pockets, only do not spoil a pretty 
whim by too expensive favors. The 
pockets of such a bag, given to a ten- 
year-old boy last Christmas, held a 
comb, a magnifying glass, a cake of 
sweet chocolate, a game, a hand looking- 
glass, a nail file, and a pocket knife. 




Wonder Bags 



2l6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



There was evidently an underlying pur- 
pose in the selection, but the boy 
voted it the very best present he re- 
ceived. 

The last suggestion is for the one, 
whoever he or she may be, to whom you 
never know just what to give. When 
we ask our "Tom" what present he 
enjoys most, he always says, "Mrs. 
Prosser's pie." Mrs. Prosser is a dear 
old lady who, every Christmas, makes 
dozens of mince pies, and sends them in 
spicy showers to all her friends. A 
hint to the wise. Every woman should 
count as her chief accomplishment the 



ability to make at least one especially 
nice thing to eat. Cake, candy, salted 
nuts, pickle, or marmalade, it does not 
matter so much what it is, if only it has 
become an art as well as a science. At 
Christmas time this is her last resort. 
The friend who already has a surfeit of 
things more costly than she can afford 
to buy, the man who never seems to 
want anything, the already too-gifted 
small boy, each and every one will ap- 
preciate the dainty parcel that does not 
have to be hung nor set nor packed away, 
but appeals directly to a primal in- 
stinct and fills a long-felt want. 




Pillow-sham of Embroidered Handkerchiefs 



December 

By Judith Giddings 



Holly at the window-pane, 
Fields snowy white, 

Merry bells a-tinkling, 
Stars shining bright. 



All the world a-smiling, 

Good-will to spare, 
Gracious thoughts and generous thoughts, 

Christmas in the air! 



Suggestions for Christmas 



2 17 




Large Cake and Small Basket made of Cake and decorated with Rosettes 
and Ribbons of Boiled Frosting 



Small Cakes with Frosting in Chrysanthemum Pattern 

Prepared by Mrs. F. Herbrick, Nashville, Tenn. 




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The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



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Christmas Afjnts 

By Kate Gsr inett Wells 



THE possession of relative* 3 at 
Christmas time is v p ry ^ e _ 
sirable, provided they gi ve 
you the things yoa w^ nt; for there 
are three factors in ^ xV i ng) _the gift it- 
self, the pecsona\ r ^ gard ' of the giver> 
and the-a$>prp ciation of the one who re _ 
ceeives, Appropriateness constitutes its 
<charaB ^ as to g^ ve w ithout affection is a 
^ rr j, and to receive from one you dislike 
*ls hideous. Now Christmas aunts, as a 
link between parents who ought to give 
something and acquaintances who need 
not, seem to fulfil these conditions. 
Generally, they know what is wanted, 
r and have a pride in their young rela- 
tions, who are not %n willing to be grate- 
ful to them. 

It is character that makes the Christ- 
mas %,'urit whs& she is. She may give 
pik bk'-^f ribbon or a rope of pearls. 
4h either case it is her way of giving 
%liM makes her Christmasy. She may 
*fe% old-fashioned, or of the modern 
committee type of hustler, or of tea- 
gown grace and suavity; but through 
all the variations runs an adorable 
motherliness. This it is which made 
the power of Mrs. Mary A. Iyivermore, 
and still creates the charm and resource- 
fulness of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe. Even 
M a Christmas aunt advises, scolds, 
•praise's, or bosses her young people, she 
Vet has an hereditary pride in them, 
for they belong to her side of the 
family. 

It is this belonging to somebody else 
besides your parents which is so dear. 
The mere fact that parents ought to 
care for those whom they have brought 
into the world gives to aunts an in- 
vesture of free royalty. They care for 
you just because they need not. Even 
if aunts have children of their own, they 
do not lose their prerogatives of grace 
to others, while the unmarried aunt 



ranks next to a grandmother in de- 
lightfulness. 

These "Old Maids" of our homes 
could have been married if they wanted 
to be (any man or woman can be if 
either wishes). The afterglow of ten- 
der romance always enshrines them, 
though they may lead lonely lives. 
Their range extends from the poor 
woman whose home is her trunk to 
the wealthy lady whose house is a 
shelter for others. Yet both have in 
their hearts the Christmas feeling. 
Single life may often be best, but, in 
regard to marriage, it is not the fre- 
quency of divorce that is the trouble, 
but the self-love, inordinate self -respect) 
and ambition of married life that most 
needs correction. Don't pity yourself , 
don't cherish vain imaginings) don't 
expect to get more than one -third of 
what you want (which usually is ohe- 
half more than you deserve), are as 
good rules for married as for single life. 
As civilization increases, people natu- 
rally will find more difficulty in getting 
suited to each other. As the spirit of 
religion grows, people will ask more 
from themselves than from each other, 
and in that asking will find as much ful- 
ness of joy and of service in being single 
as in being married, save that the true 
companionship of marriage with its 
children is a multiplied joy. 

Christmas aunts know all of this. 
One of them, a wealthy married woman, 
sent to her nephew, who had a hard 
time to get along, a check, saying: 
"You do for me: I give to you. Doing 
and giving are alike family ties." An- 
other aunt of the penurious, unmarried 
type sent to her niece a single carnation 
lying on a pair of garters she had knit, 
and the niece thought of the many 
solitary hours in which the yarn had 
been knitted, and of the many econo- 



220 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



mies, lovingly practised, by means of 
which the flower had been purchased. 
Still another aunt and a niece, to 
whom fortune had alike been kind, 
gave each other gifts of equal value, 
and they were quits. 

Yet there is a certain phase of Christ- 
mas giving that is more sentimental 
than strengthening, — the exchange of 
thoughts which are supposed to have 
either religious or literary value. Such 
expressions may soothe the nervous or 
occupy the amateur, self-conscious poser 
to herself of superficial culture; yet 
such sentiments are very different from 
the praise of honest affection. But 
many of us have not yet got rid of the 
old notion that praise is dangerous. 
It may be, when it is false ; but, when 
true, it is an incentive to further effort. 
It is so much better to praise another 
while she is living than after she has 
died. All the same, exchange of 
"thoughts," literary or otherwise, may 
be an invigorating process; and may 
those who enjoy it continue its pastime ! 
But do not let the "thoughts" be 
tinged with self-pity, for courage and 
common sense help us to bear the ills 
of life that beset us from one Christmas 
to another. 



We never can say too often how 
grateful we are for "The Christmas 
Fact." What would our daily life 
have been if the first Christmas had 
not been born! Keeping now the 
truth of that fact, we pour around it 
the service of our. daily lives. Never 
too poor, too lonely, too sick, to be 
useful to somebody! Thank God for 
His Christmas gift of lowly usefulness! 
Thanks to Him also for Christmas 
aunts, for he has set the world in fam- 
ilies. Yet the trouble is that, as we do 
not want Christmas to co^e but once a 
year, with all its array of presents to get 
and to be answered, which makes the 
day a heavy burden, we must carry 
along its spirit, from month to month 
and hour to hour, in perpetual giving 
and receiving of service. 

Many persons already prefer to make 
their gifts spasmodic rather than annual, 
just because the meaning of the day 
has become so desecrated by gregarious 
giving. Simplicity in all things is to 
be followed. Always may the Christ- 
mas aunt remain transfigured before us 
as one who gives, not because she must, 
but because she loves to bring forth 
from her storehouses of invention and 
affection gifts new and old! 



Vesper Bells 

By Lucia W. Eames 



Soft shadows, downward stealing, 

Absorb the amber light, 
And, like a benediction, 

Comes on the holy night. 

From the gray tower in the distance, 
Faint on the evening air, 

The vesper bells are calling 
The village folk to prayer. 



I may not follow their footsteps, 
And kneel at marble shrine, 

Or join those faithful people 
In service old, divine. 

But here, alone in the open, 
To God, the Father of all, 

I lift my heart in the darkness; 
And I know he hears my call. 



Glimpses of a Japanese Interior 

By Harriett A. Parker 



UPON reaching J.'s home, we 
found it much the same as she 
had described, — a low one-story 
structure with framework of bamboo, 
the strips being tied together with ropes 
and plastered with mud, the posts of 
cedar or cypress, the floor of pine, and 
a tiled roof, which proclaimed it at once 
as a house of the better class. The 
poorer people, or the farmers, usually 
live in houses the roofs of which are 
thatched with rice straw or shingled, 
similar to our own. Some houses have 
a second story, especially those in the 
larger cities, with wide, cool verandas 
overlooking luxuriant gardens, but the 
most of them are built with only a 
ground floor, — no cellars. 

As we entered, we found ourselves in 
a sort of hallway, and from there were 
led into a small reception or guest room, 
at the threshold of which one is sup- 
posed to make her obeisance. This 
room is furnished in the usual meagre 
Japanese fashion, the ubiquitous ta- 
tanic, or mat, being in evidence, which 
is of woven straw underneath and mat- 
ting above, and bound with black 
cloth. These mats are three or four 
inches thick, and are put down over 
a thin, polished board flooring, often 
very damp and mouldy underneath, 
but it is a relief to know that from 
time to time they are taken out, beaten, 
and allowed to air in the sun. The 
size of an ordinary tatanic is six by 
three feet, and the size of a room is 
designated by telling how many mats 
are required. 

In one corner of the reception-room 
was a raised portion, four by two feet, 
like a polished wooden step. On this an 
ornament or two of bronze or wood 
and a vase of flowers were placed ; above, 



a kakemono, or hanging scroll. In 
entering the home of a stranger, it 
would be exceedingly rude to go di- 
rectly into this room until you had 
been again and again urged to do so, 
so omnipresent is the custom of form 
and ceremony at every turn. Usually, 
kneeling cushions are placed for vis- 
itors, about one and one-half feet square, 
covered with cloth, silk, or some fine 
material in the houses of the better 
class. When you finally take a cushion, 
— i.e., kneel on it, — etiquette demands 
that you take the one furthest away, — 
nearest the entrance. After repeated 
urgings you may go farther and farther 
into the room; but some never do. 

Upon our arrival, tea was served in 
true Japanese style, Kaoru, J.'s little 
maid, bringing in a brass kettle of water, 
which she placed over the charcoal 
fire. This kettle was finely embossed, — 
even in the homes of the lowly, — and is 
often of rare beauty. The tea-box was 
already in the room, a handsome lac- 
quered affair, as were the dishes or 
boxes of cakes — a quite good kind of 
rice cracker — and candies, for which 
J. produced her best ivory chop-sticks. 
After brewing the delicately colored 
tea, Kaoru remained humbly in a 
corner of the room, kneeling, with 
folded hands, until it was time to re- 
move all traces of the light repast. 

During her long residence in Cherry- 
blossom Land, a part of which time was 
spent in the larger hotels, where food 
of all kinds is the best, J. had become 
quite addicted to a menu Japanese, 
but, thinking that we might not "take 
to" this way of living, upon such short 
acquaintance, she had provided that 
our next meal be served in "foreign 
style," which, needless to say, was not 



222 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



foreign to us. A man who had had 
much experience in cooking for for- 
eigners in Tokyo had become so pro- 
ficient in his art that he was the teacher 
for numerous culinary classes under 
his direction, as well as letting himself 
out to take charge of dinners in "for- 
eign style." This idea had become 
very popular, especially among the 
wealthy class, and the man was kept 
busy all the time. Fortunately, we 
were not obliged to partake of a strictly 
Japanese diet for the next few days, 
although J.'s cook, whom she had in- 
structed in many American dishes, 
was obliged to be away on account of 
illness; for her kind neighbor, Mrs. 
Tosliero, herself a semi-lover of for- 
eign cooking, was ready at all times to 
assist her. 

As we had come to the Flowery King- 
dom to learn, it was a pleasure at times 
to forsake the large dining table and 
chairs, and betake ourselves to the 
little low tables, with their collection 
of dainty china. In one or two houses 
in which we went, even the tiny table 
was omitted, and a tray — sometimes 
raised from the floor an inch or so — ■ 
substituted. We never got tired of 
praising the pretty lacquer bowls for 
soup, the round covered bucket or box 
for rice, with spoon to match, the 
carved chop-sticks, and the delicate 
porcelain. 

Rice, as is well known, is their "staff 
of life," — and, by the way, how much 
of it they do eat! — and the bowl is 
always placed on the left-hand corner 
of the table or tray. This is the only 
dish of which you are expected to be 
helped to a second time. The soup is 
generally made of fresh or salted fish, 
boiled in water with a vegetable or 
two, and is drunk from a bowl. The 
right side of the tray is the proper place 
for it. Then on tiny dishes between are 
pickles or relishes of various sorts, 
ko-no-mono. The favorite seems to be 



the daikon, a white vegetable resembling 
our turnip, and boiled in water. After 
once inhaling the never-to-be-forgotten 
odor, we had no inclination to attempt 
this. Fish boiled or broiled is always in 
evidence, but rarely served alone, as 
with that, as with meat or vegetables, 
they mix soy or niess, a kind of bean 
sauce. Raw fish did not tempt us. 
They like white potatoes, cold and 
sweetened with sugar. Sweet potatoes 
are eaten as a fruit, often between 
meals. Other viands of a meal a la 
Japanaise are shirukos (cakes made of 
rice with an accompaniment of bean 
sauce) chawan, (a mushroom soup), 
saba (a kind of vermicelli, served with 
soy and a sweet liquor), etc. Sake, 
the national beverage, made from rice, 
is always served warm, and is not gen- 
erally partaken of at a family dinette, 
as Pierre Loti would call it. It is as- 
tonishing that more attention is not 
paid to the cultivation of fruit, as cer- 
tainly some parts of the country must 
be adapted to it. Oranges and melons 
with a few grapes and figs are about 
the only eatable fruits, with the excep- 
tion of pomegranates and persimmons. 

The saying, "There is no accounting 
for tastes," loses none of its significance 
in Japan, truly. It would seem that 
the food of the people — though it 
is true that indigestion is not an un- 
common thing — is, for the most part, 
suited to them in every particular. 
Else why that sunny, serene temper, 
the ability to work so faithfully ^nd 
well? 

And so sayonara (good-bye), queer 
little people! It was good to have 
seen and known you, but we were 
not sorry to leave the "land of gentle 
manners and fantastic arts" far 
behind us, and to get home to our 
good old-fashioned bread and butter, 
our milk and coffee, and all else that 
combines to make America the best 
and dearest land in all the world. 



Tarallucci and Pizzie Cavuie 

By Helen Campbell 



I 



TOLD you not to be surprised," 
said the young man. 

'That doesn't prevent the fact 
from occurring," replied the charming 
girl who faced him at a little table on 
which cups of coffee had been placed, 
together with a plate on which were 
piled the tiniest of cakes, with a hole 
in each hardly larger than a lead pencil 
would make. This was a fifth excursion 
to singular forms of restaurants in New 
York, — "a tour of discovery, to find 
out just what one need never visit 
again," she had said. But these curious 
little cakes had attracted her; and her 
guide and fiance, as they paused before 
the window of the dingy little bakery, 
smiled as he looked at them. 

"These are faithful copies of some I 
have seen baked eighteen hundred years 
ago." 

"Don't be mysterious, Philip. Was 
it in a dream?" 

"Not at all. It was in the museum 
at Pompeii. You see, when the ex- 
cavators got really underground at 
Pompeii, they found many ovens. All 
of them held pans, and in every pan of 
some, at least, were tarallucci. They 
were well done, beyond a doubt, for 
they had been in the oven eighteen 
hundred years. You will find them 
made by the same rule in Naples to-day ; 
for the Neapolitans always eat them 
with their coffee, — little crisp, crusty 
things, you know." 

"They can't be cakes, Philip, for 
they are absolutely stony. They are 
just little buns, I should say, and 
marble dust perhaps instead of flour. 
Oh!" she added, for her teeth had 
penetrated one, and she laid it down 
with the look of one betrayed, "it's 
much worse than marble dust. What 
in the name of all dead cooks is it?" 

"You ought to know anise-seed by 



m 



this time, child. The hot coffee brings 
out the flavor a little too much, per- 
haps. We Americans do not take very 
kindly to anise-seed. And yet you like 
it in the German rye bread." 

The girl shook her head. 

"That's different. These particular 
tarallucci were undoubtedly baked in 
Pompeii. If I had lived there, and 
had to eat them, the irruption would 
have been welcome. Can't you do any 
better by me than this?" 

The young man nodded amiably. 

"There's one more place left, I think. 
Do you want to try pizzie cavuie down 
on Spring Street? There are just two 
places in all the city where you can get 
them ; and they, also, are Neapolitan, — 
that is, the cakes are." 

"Are they as impossible as these?" 

' ' Try them, and see . ' ' And now, with 
no further hesitation, the girl rose and 
laughed, as they took the car to Spring 
Street, transferred there to . a little 
horse-car, — the unceasing astonishment 
of all who came upon it in the great 
city, — and jogged on to the shop, on 
the window of which in tall letters they 
saw the words "Pizzie Cavuie," a pile 
of Italian cheeses behind it. 

"It might be some sort of theatre," 
the girl said as they entered, for along 
one side of the room was a row of little 
private stalls about the size of theatre 
boxes, a small black table, and two 
black benches in each, and partitions 
of black wood between. On the op- 
posite side was a very long table, also 
black, but covered with the brightest 
of green oil-cloths, long black benches 
on either side. A railing divided the 
shop in the middle, and here stood two 
Neapolitan bakers, all in white, white 
caps on their heads and thick rolls of 
white dough before them. Behind the 
railing was a broad shelf; and now the 



224 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



girl watched, fascinated, as each took 
a piece of the dough, and with a series 
of slaps on the shelf flattened it till no 
thicker than the ordinary pancake, but 
about the size of an Adirondack flap- 
jack or a pie. Then they dabbed bits of 
lard all over the surface, and sprinkled 
on a thick layer of grated, Roman 
cheese, from the deep dish of it close at 
hand. On top of this went thick 
cooked tomato, and on that a sprink- 
ling of aregata, — an aromatic, spicy 
Italian herb, always a favorite season- 
ing. The whole operation had lasted 
hardly more than a minute. Now the 
cakes were slapped on a long-handled 
paddle and pushed into a hot oven close 
by. Left there less than five minutes, 
they were taken out steaming, and sent 
to the tables on a large round pewter 
plate, though for the two Americans 
individual plates were brought forward. 
The girl tasted delicately, then nodded a 
modified approval; for it was hot and 
spicy, a cross between bread and pie- 
crust. Cold, there was no doubt that 
it would be a heavy morsel for stomachs 
unused to such diet; yet there was 
something enticing about it. 

' ' What do the words mean ? I never 
met them in any Italian I know," the 
girl said. 

"You couldn't, for they are not in 
the dictionary. It's dialect pure and 
simple, — Neapolitan dialect, — and it 
means just hot cakes. In Naples they 
make little ones that sell for a cent each, 
and at the doors of the bakeries they 
cry, 'Tarallucci con pummarola e alice,' 
which means with tomato and anchovy. 
Nor is it tomato straight, for I found 
out that they used the tomato paste 
that all Italians make. You are laugh- 
ing ; but I found it out by being on the 
roof of an old place near Florence, 
where they were drying this cooked- 
and-strained tomato, which has a de- 
licious flavor. They soak it and stew 
it, or use it as in this case; and the 



whole thing in the way of tarallucci, 
whatever form it takes, is always savory 
and enticing. 

"I should think so!" the girl ex- 
claimed. "My dear Philip, what were 
you thinking of ? There isn't one little 
crumb of that extraordinary thing left, 
and you will have indigestion." 

"But no," the young man said se- 
riously, "for you see that is where the 
aregata comes in. Nothing that holds 
that as seasoning can give indigestion 
or anything else but satisfaction. You 
see, that is the difference between the 
Italian and the New England cook. 
The first puts the antidote in every dish. 
The second prefers a pill box or some- 
thing in a bottle. Give me the Italian 
method every time." 

1 ' I wonder what else you know about 
cookery," the girl said reflectively, as 
she pushed in her hat pins and looked 
once more about the little restaurant. 
"You have opened up a new field of 
inquiry. Are you going to see that I 
provide a full supply of aregata when 
housekeeping begins?" 

"Why not?" said the young man, 
quietly. "The Italian woman cannot 
make an unsavory dish. I walked in 
Italy, you know, five months, seeing 
things as they are. Do you suppose I 
could walk through New England — for 
that matter, anywhere in the United 
States — without being poisoned by bad 
cookery? But now we will leave that 
question for another day." And he sig- 
nalled the little car as it neared them, 
and looked back at the window and its 
sign. 

"I believe that this minute you would 
go back and eat another of those ex- 
traordinary combinations," the girl said. 

"I shall get the recipe as old as the 
tarallucci one, and we will give a dinner 
a la Pompeiian," .the young man an- 
swered with a laugh; and the girl said: 
"To be sure. I'll come again, and see 
some more." 



A Cabinet Luncheon 



By Helen B. Crane 



THE guests are to represent the 
Vice-President and members 
of the Cabinet. So on her ar- 
rival give to each lady a card upon 
which is written "The Secretary of 
War," "The Attorney- General," etc. 
With these she must find her seat at the 
table, where only the personal names — 
Mr. Root, Mr. Cortelyou, etc. — will be 
written on the tiny flags that stand by 
each place. In the centre of the table, 
on green cloth or velvet, stands a large 
white pasteboard box to serve as "The 
White House." With pencil or brush 
mark in windows and doors, and place 
around it tiny potted plants, vines, etc., 
to cover the discrepancies of architect- 
ure. On large cards, decorated with 
pictures of the President and Vice- 
President and red, white, and blue 
ribbon, print the following menu, 
which represents the various depart- 
ments of the Cabinet: — 

The Piixar of State. 

Agriculture Soup. 

Labor and Commerce. 

The White Squadron. 

The Department op Law. 

Interior Salad. 

Cabinet Pudding. 

Treasury Ice. Post-oppice Cake. 

The Canteen. 

Ofpice-seekers. 

The first course, in honor of the Secre- 
tary of State, is a fruit punch made of 
chopped oranges, pineapple, and straw- 
berries, to which are added sugar and a 
little sherry. This is served in ginger 
ale or Apollinaris glasses, standing in 
tall white pasteboard tubes, at the 
bottom of which is a square piece of the 
pasteboard, like the base of a Doric 
pillar, while another piece at the top is 
cut out in the centre, that the glass may 
stand inside. A bit of paper and a 



little paste will join these two pieces 
securely. The Agriculture Soup has 
in it a variety of fine-chopped vege- 
tables, carrots, celery, parsley, rice, etc. 
For the fish, fried smelts should be 
served with tar tare sauce, while on each 
plate is laid a small toy shovel or an- 
chor, indicative of Labor and Commerce, 
the newest of all the secretaryships. 
The entree course, illustrating the 
White Squadron, consists of creamed 
sweetbreads, served in oval-shaped 
paper boxes, in which are standing 
three smoke-pipes made of soda-water 
straws and two toothpick masts. A 
spoonful of green peas may be served 
on the plate with the "gunboats." 

Every attorney must have his "sheep- 
skin." So the next course will be roast 
lamb with vegetables. The Interior 
Salad is made with raw tomatoes, from 
which the interior is scooped out and 
refilled with a salad of chicken, celery, 
cucumber, and mayonnaise. The Cabi- 
net Pudding is the ordinary one of any 
cook-book, and is followed by the 
Treasury Ice, which is thin, oblong 
slices of pistachio ice-cream (green- 
backs), together with two or three 
small circular pieces of Philadelphia or 
rich custard cream that will give 
somewhat the color of gold coins. This 
cream may first be cut in slices and 
afterward in disks with a small biscuit 
cutter. 

The Post-office Cakes are baked in 
thin layers and cut into slices the 
shape of a small envelope. These pieces 
are iced, and afterward have written 
upon them with a fine brush and rather 
thin chocolate icing the names and ad- 
dresses of the guests. The Canteen, or 
coffee, representing the Army, may be 
served in the drawing-room with the 
Office-seekers, or Candi-dates. 



Some Cuban Dishes 



By Mrs. L. O. Harris 



THE guinea fowl is butchered 
to make the Cuban New Year 
holiday; and, when it appears 
upon the table in a rich brown gravy 
with raisins, olives, almonds, and pis- 
tachio nuts, behold a dish that might 
have come right out of " The Arabian 
Nights." The flesh of the guinea is 
dark and fine-flavored, more gamy than 
that of any other domestic fowl. It is 
highly esteemed in Cuba, as also it is 
in our own Southern States. 

If the guinea must die in the interest 
of the New Year feast, it is the pig 
whose presence is necessary to the com- 
pletion of the Christmas dinner. His 
Piglets of Cuba is said to be the Prince 
of Goodfellows, the most delicately 
flavored porcine in the world, all be- 
cause he confines himself to a diet of 
the fruit of the royal palm, the state- 
liest tree that grows, a veritable hidalgo 
of the soil. This pig's feet make a suc- 
culent stew, and this dish they call 
patos. They are boiled until quite 
tender, and then made into a brown 
stew in which raisins and olives are 
cunningly combined. The Cubans use 
olive oil in their cookery where we would 
use lard or butter, claiming with truth 
that it is less greasy and more whole- 
some than the other two. Butter, how- 
ever, costs 60 cents a pound there, and 
that fact may have some influence in 
shaping public opinion against its use. 
Their ropa vieja, literally old 
clothes, is a better-tasting dish than 
its name would seem to indicate. It 
is made of beef, fresh or jerked, which 
is boiled until tender. It is then 
shredded and stewed in olive oil with 
tomatoes, frigoles, pepper, a bit of 
garlic, and is served with an accom- 
paniment of croutons. The big pi- 
mentos colorados which are spread over 
the mound of meat are peculiarly dear 



to the Cubans. This pepper, which is 
mild, is put up in oil, and is ready for 
every emergency. 

Arros con pollau is chicken and rice 
cooked together, and highly seasoned. 
This is something like the jambalayah 
of Louisiana, but is not quite so savory. 

As a rule, the Cuban dishes are de- 
lightfully seasoned, though one might 
wish for a little more discretion in the 
use of garlic ; but it is not true, as some 
travelers would have us believe, that 
in Cuba they put garlic in everything 
but the sugar. 

Their beans are of so many varieties, 
and are cooked in so many ways and 
in so many combinations, that only one 
to the manner born can describe what 
they really are. Frijole nigra, a little 
black bean, appears to be a variety 
much liked, and keeps close company 
with rice. The Cubans prefer their 
rice less highly polished than that 
turned out by the mills in the States, 
claiming that its flavor and nutritious 
quality are impaired by the high polish 
given here. They prefer on that ac- 
count the golden rices of East India. 

The Cuban squash, or chiotas, is the 
fruit of a perennial vine. It is the 
same thing as the mirliton of Louisiana, 
and all other squashes compared with 
it are as moonlight unto sunlight. 

But there is a green gourd which 
rivals it, its delicacy of flavor being due 
to its tiny seeds. This gourd is really 
a calabash, and it is the fruit of one of 
the most stately, the most beautiful, 
and the strangest- looking of trees. The 
balsam apple, also one of the gourds, 
is picked green, cut into dice, fried like 
potatoes, and is served with steak. It 
is bitter as death, and at first is re- 
jected as nauseous, but, tasted again 
and again, it begins to commend itself, 
and finally is taken into high favor. 



Icieas for Engagement Luncheons 



227 



This use of the gourd as a food comes 
to the Cubans through the Spanish 
Moors, who in their turn derived it 
from the Orient. The Bible speaks of 
the gourd as a food. When Blisha, 
wishing to feed the sons of the prophets, 
bade his servant set on the great pot 
and seethe pottage for them, he went 
out into the field to gather herbs, and 
found a wild vine, and gathered thereof 
wild gourds, a lapful, and came and 
shredded them into the pot of pottage ; 
for they knew them not. But it came 
to pass as they were eating of the pot- 
tage that they cried out, and said : O 
Man of God, there is death in the pot, 
and they could not eat thereof. But 
he said then, Bring meal. And he cast 
it into the pot, and he said, Pour out 
for the people, that they may eat. And 
there was no harm in the pot. 

The Cuban pumpkin is an odd-look- 
ing vegetable, in color like an egg plant, 
in size and shape a good deal like the 
old-fashioned long canteloupe. It does 
not taste pumpkin-y at all. The paw- 
paw, which grows in queerest fashion, 
several tiers deep all around the neck 
of its parent tree, apparently unrelated 
to limb or stem or twig or leaf, looks 
and tastes like a canteloupe, and is 
served in the same way. Cuban house- 
wives have long known of the solvent 
quality of its juice, and with it treat 



tough meats and "superannuated fowls. 
This vegetable pepsin must be used 
sparingly, however, for a little too 
much is a world too much, disintegrat- 
ing the fibre of the meat so thoroughly 
that, when it comes out of the oven, it 
will crumble like powder under the teeth. 

There is a soup made of codfish and 
green banana, also one made of pump- 
kin and banana, which are not bad. 
The calamarie, a queer, slimy, amor- 
phous creature, all tentacles, that may 
claim close kin with the octopus, is 
very good indeed, fried after the fashion 
of a soft-shell crab; but his looks are 
very much against him. 

Cuban coffee is good. It is ground 
very, very fine, and this dust is put 
into a bag shaped exactly like an old- 
fashioned nightcap, its mouth being 
held open by a metal band. This is 
suspended over the pot, and the boil- 
ing water, poured on at intervals and 
only a little at a time, percolates slowly 
through the mass, making a strong de- 
coction. One tablespoonful of this is 
added to a cup of salted, hot milk, which 
by long, slow boiling has been reduced 
two-thirds. This cafe au lait is drunk 
all hours of the day, at home or in the 
cafes which corner every street; but 
many strangers do not, at first, fancy 
the salted milk that forms so large 
a part of this drink. 



Ideas for Engagement Luncheons 

By Mary Taylor-Ross 



AT a recent engagement luncheon 
tiny Cupids were placed here 
h and there amid the greenery 
that surrounded the centre-piece of 
flowers. Bach of the images sported 
a bow with gilt-tipped arrows, which 
were pointed directly toward each 



cover, and in the small receptacle 
hanging at the left side, and supposed 
to be intended for arrows, was a tiny 
three-cornered note attached to pink 
satin ribbons. At a given signal each 
guest pulled at the pink ribbons, which 
were carried over the table to each place, 



228 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and, upon opening the note, the names 
of the engaged ones were disclosed. 
This pretty way of announcing one's 
engagement does away with any more 
formal statement, which is always 
more or less embarrassing to the "lady 
in the case." 

The souvenirs of this luncheon were 
heart-shaped candy boxes of white 
satin, decorated with pink bows, the 
cover of each box being pierced with 
a rather large gilt arrow. 

At another luncheon the true lover's 
knot was made the motif for decora- 
tions. The candle-shades were decked 
with true lover's knots of wired and 
knotted ribbons, and here and there 
on the ribbon flashed a Rhinestone, 
which added to the brilliant appearance 
of the table. The flower design was 
also a true lover's knot of large pro- 
portions, made of flowers and maiden- 
hair fern, and the various dishes served 
carried out the same idea. Sweet- 
bread patties were made of puff paste 
formed into a knot, the sweetbreads 
being filled into the loops. Small cakes 
were first covered with white icing and 
then decorated with true lover's knots 
in pink icing, and the bonbons were 
pink and white cream knots, rather 
tiny than large. 

The same sort of scheme, substituting 
double hearts for the true lover's knots, 
proved a success, at a third engagement 
luncheon, the centre-piece of two 
hearts intertwined being suspended 
over the table instead of lying flat on 
its surface. The chandelier was en- 
twined with smilax and maidenhair 
fern, and in the middle of the table 
was a handsome silver dish filled with 
what appeared like the old-fashioned 
lozenges of our childhood. Two of 
these were fastened together with 
narrow ribbons that extended to each 
place, ending in a rosette at the place 
cards, which were of double heart 
shape and pierced with a gilt arrow 
of paper. Upon drawing these double 



hearts from the dish, the names of the 
engaged pair were found, one on each 
heart. The hearts were of pink candy, 
the clever work of a caterer, and the 
ribbons were of white satin. On the 
reverse side of the hearts were found 
the intertwined initials of the pair. 

A pretty way to announce an autumn 
engagement is to slip a folded paper 
containing the names of the engaged 
couple inside the empty shell of an 
English walnut, tying the halves of 
the shell together with gilt cord or baby 
ribbon, and piling them in a dish, as in 
the case of the double hearts, or laying 
them at each place. The fact that they 
are tied suggests opening them, and 
the guests are soon chattering over 
the contents. 

A Vassar girl's engagement luncheon 
was carried out in the college colors, — 
gray and pink. That is, the decora- 
tions were; for the time, when color 
schemes for luncheons include every 
dish that is served, is happily past. 
There was a certain monotony in this 
out-of-date fashion that became lu- 
dicrous, when it reached the far-fetched 
idea of serving all sorts of foods col- 
ored artificially to suit the scheme, and 
one was obliged to eat salads and 
creamed foods, colored blue or pink or 
green, as the case might be. 

It is, however, perfectly proper to 
select and make use of such foods, 
whether fish, fruits, or vegetables, that 
lend themselves naturally to ft given 
color scheme, and, at this Vassar lun- 
cheon, were served cream-of- salmon 
soup, rose ice-cream, pink "cake sand- 
wiches," made of two very thin slices 
of sponge cake put together with jelly 
and covered with pink icing, and rose- 
colored bonbons of all sorts. Pale 
pink roses were used as a centre-piece, 
in a tall crystal vase that did not hide 
the beautiful long stems and foliage. 
Around the centre-piece was an artistic 
arrangement of gray and pink silk 
tulle tied in a large upstanding bow, 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



229 



and here and there among the folds 
of tulle peeped delicate maidenhair 
fern. 

The salad was trimmed with "dai- 
sies," each one cut from a slice of hard- 
boiled egg with a daisy-shaped vegeta- 
ble cutter. Pink rose petals floated on 
the water in the finger-bowls; and not 
only was the rose ice-cream tinted a 
rose-pink, but it was moulded in the 
form of an American Beauty, and 
when a few rose leaves on thorned stems 
were laid on the side of the plate, with 
a few real rose petals, the ice-cream 
roses looked very natural. The girls 
have decided that, when this wedding 
occurs, rose petals shall be showered 
on the bride instead of the out-of-date 
and rather dangerous rice, after the 



hint given at an early spring wedding 
which, occurring in early May, when 
flowers are rather scarce in some parts 
of the country, was an "apple-blossom 
wedding," and by shaking branches of 
apple-trees in full bloom over the bride's 
head a shower of the sweetly fragrant 
petals resulted. 

At the white luncheon mentioned 
above, popcorn was served with the 
clam soup. The soup was served in 
bouillon cups, and on each plate was 
a little heap of popcorn, and on top of 
the soup was floating a meringue made 
of white of eggs, salted and whipped to 
a stiff froth. Both the meringue and 
the popcorn blended well with the flavor 
of the clam soup, and were a little out 
of the ordinary. 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 

By Mary D. Chambers 

Lesson II 
Hydrolysis of Starch 



I 
Cookery of Cereals General Rules 

Ingredients: Water, salt, cereal. 

Proportion of Water: This is de- 
termined by weight of cereal, four times 
as much water, by weight, as cereal. 
Exception: Ralston Breakfast Food, 
Pillsbury's Vitos, and other preparations 
especially rich in gluten. 

Proportion of Salt: This is deter- 
mined by volume of water used, one 
teaspoon of salt to one pint of water. 

Time allowed for Cooking: This is 
determined by the process of manu- 
facture. For "rolled" grains, which 
are partly steam-cooked, a minimum of 
thirty minutes is often allowed, for 
the "germ" preparations, a minimum 
of one hour, while oatmeal, corn-meal, 
etc., require six to eight hours. But 



all cereals are the better for prolonged 
cooking, and the time may be extended 
almost indefinitely with excellent re- 
sults. Exceptions: corn-meal, when 
used to correct constipation, in rare 
cases, is cooked for one hour, or less. 
Rice, boiled in water, is best cooked 
from twenty to thirty minutes: over- 
cooking causes it to become "pasty." 
When rice is cooked in a double boiler, 
forty-five minutes may be allowed. 

General Method of Cooking Cereals 

Weigh cereal. Measure four times 
its weight of water. (Allow in measur- 
ing water a pint to a pound.) Boil 
water in inside part of double boiler. 
Add salt, and let boil again. Stir to 
increase agitation of water, and add dry 
cereal slowly. Let boil three to five 



230 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



minutes, stirring occasionally. Cover, 
and place in outside part of double 
boiler, previously filled one-third with 
boiling water. Cook for required time 
closely covered, keeping water boiling, 
and keeping up the quantity in the 
outside boiler, should the cooking be 
prolonged. 

Note. — Cereal, when cooked, should be 
rather stiff, and not soft or mushy. 

Stirring during process of cooking is apt to 
make cereal "waxy." 

Rice, Two Methods 

I . Wash until last water remains 
clear. Cook in a large quantity of 
rapidly boiling salted water. Water 
must boil so hard that rice will keep 
stirred up from bottom by mechanical 
action, and to this end the volume of 
water must be excessive and the boiling 
violent. When cooked (this can be 
tested by pressing a single grain be- 
tween thumb and finger), drain in col- 
ander, and dry in hot oven, shaking 
once in a while, so that each grain will 
be separate and flaky. 

II. Wash, and cook as other cereals 
in double boiler. This method must 
be employed in a hard water section 
of the country, and, generally, where 
artesian well water is used, as certain 
of the salts in such water cause dis- 
coloration of the rice. The appearance 
of the dish is not so attractive as in the 
first method, but there is no loss of 
nutrients in draining off water. 

Additions to Cereals 

Dried fruit, chopped, and lightly 
stirred in a few minutes before remov- 
ing cereal from fire. Or cereal can be 
served as a border to baked apple or 
apple-sauce or with a spoonful of fig 
marmalade. This is made by pressing 
steamed figs through a colander and 
moistening slightly with water. The 
addition of cream to the cereal supplies 
the fat in which most of the grains are 
deficient. Sugar, beyond that found 



in the fruit, is, on the whole, best 
avoided, since, being readily absorbed, 
it is apt to clog the vessels, and delay 
absorption of other foods. 

II 

Experiments in Cooking Breakfast 
Cereal 

1. To one cupful of rapidly boiling 
salted water add two ounces of any of 
the quick-cooking breakfast cereals. 
Let boil three minutes, cover, place in 
double boiler, and cook one hour. 

2. To salted water, heated in inner 
part of double boiler, but not directly 
over fire, add cereal same as before, 
and cook one hour, allowing it to re- 
main the entire time in the double 
boiler. Compare with 1. 

3. Divide 1 into three parts, A, B, 
and C. Allow A to cool to approxi- 
mately 150 F., and add to it one tea- 
spoonful of dry malt flour. Mix, and 
allow to stand five minutes. Keep 
B at boiling-point, add malt flour, same 
as A, and let stand five minutes. Let 
C remain undisturbed for control test. 
Compare all three. 

4. Compare a portion of breakfast 
cereal cooked from eight to twelve 
hours (this must be previously pre- 
pared by teacher, and must be of same 
description as that used by the class) 
with the cereal cooked during lesson. 

5. Mix a quarter- teaspoonful of 
cooked cereal from 1, 2,*4, A and B, 
with one-half cup of cold water. Filter 
into beakers, and test with iodine. 

Ill 

Sponge Puddings 
No. 1. Two cups of boiling water, 
one-quarter a teaspoonful of salt, three 
tablespoonf uls of cornstarch, one-half cup 
of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice, whites of four eggs, stiff-beaten. 
Blend cornstarch with a little cold 
water, and stir into boiling salted 
water. Cook for twenty minutes, or 
thirty minutes if in double boiler. Add 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



231 



sugar, and let boil one minute. Beat 
in stiff-beaten whites. Add lemon juice, 
mould, and chill. 

No. 2. Omit lemon juice, and sub- 
stitute orange juice for half the quan- 
tity of water. Cook for half- the time 
allowed for No. 1. 

In class work the students number 
themselves in groups of three. Nos. 
1 and 2 make lemon and orange sponge, 
respectively. No. 3 make a lemon 
sponge, which is cooked for six minutes 
only. The three puddings are com- 
pared, and the results tabulated. 

Note. — Grape juice, huckleberry juice, or 
other fruit juice may be substituted for the 
orange juice. Canned or preserved fruit 
juice can be used with excellent results by 
lessening or omitting the sugar. Cherry juice 
drained from the can is particularly good. A 
chocolate sponge pudding can also be made by 
adding one or two squares of melted chocolate 
just before removing from fire. One or two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar extra will be found an 
improvement, if chocolate is used. None of 
these variations, however, is so well adapted 
to illustrate the effect of cooking starch with 
acid as the example given in No. 2. 

Simple Experiments in Hydrolysis 
of Starch 
A starch paste is made by boiling 
five grams of pure potato starch in 
five hundred c.c. of water. This is di- 
vided in portions of about thirty grams 
each, one to each student. Procedure 
as follows: — 

1. Divide starch paste into two 
parts. Further subdivide one of these 
parts into two parts, A and B. Boil 
A with a few drops of 20 per cent, sul- 
phuric acid, and test from time to time 
by taking out a portion on end of glass 
rod, and dropping on a tile or glazed 
slab, then adding a drop of iodine 
solution. 

2. Add to B one gram of malt flour, 
and keep at 140 to 150 F. for half 
an hour. Keep testing as before every 
five minutes. The starch paste in 
these experiments is diluted with three 
or four times its volume of water, and 



the iodine solution is about 5 per 
cent. 

3. Divide the second portion of 
starch paste into four parts, A, B, C, 
and D. To A add one or two grams 
of saliva, to B the same amount of 
saliva, previously mixed with HC1 or 
other acid, a drop or two. Keep at 
140 F. for some minutes, and test as 
before with iodine. Treat C with 
saliva same as A, but subject to a 
temperature of 200 F. or over. Keep 
D for control test. 

References 

"Chemistry of Cookery," Williams, 
chap, xviii. "Text Book of Physi- 
ology," M. Foster. "Dextrin," Ap- 
pendix to above, Lea. ' ' Dextrin, Food, 
and Dietetics," Hutchinson, p. 400. 

Questions 

Discuss, under four headings, the 
advantages and disadvantages of the 
double boiler. 

Why, more than any other of the 
breakfast dishes, must the cereal be 
thoroughly cooked? (The expected 
answer is that the cereal is seldom suf- 
ficiently masticated to insure complete 
insalivation, hence, unless hydrolysis 
is initiated by cooking, it will not take 
place, appreciably, until the food 
reaches the intestine.) 

What results may be expected to 
follow from eating a highly acid fruit 
before or with the breakfast cereal? 

Describe the end product of the 
hydrolysis of starch by ptyalin. What 
are some of the intermediate products, 
and how may they be recognized? 

Discuss fully the four hydrolyzing 
agents used in class. 

What apparent contradiction did 
you find in the work in sponge puddings 
and the experiments which followed? 
Account for this. 

Make at least four original applica- 
tions of the knowledge gained from 
this lesson. 



•3 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



THE BOSTON COOKING- 
SCHOOL MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics. 
Janet McKenzie Hill, Editor. 

PUBLISHED TEN TIMES A YEAR. 

Publication Office : 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Subscription, $1.00 per Year. Single Copies, ioc. 
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Post-office Box, or Street Number. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as second class matter. 

CHRISTMAS, 1905 

FORTY-FIVE years ago Abra- 
ham Lincoln was chosen Presi- 
dent of the United States. Since 
the end of the war of emancipation the 
material growth and prosperity of the 
land has been marvelous. It is almost 
literally true: The old order changes. 
Behold, all things have become new. 
Once a hundred thousand dollars was 
regarded a large fortune. Now that 
of a million is less rare. 

Each generation has its problems to 
solve, its burdens to bear; but the bur- 
dens and the problems from age to age 
are not the same. With the questions 
and affairs that engrossed the minds 
of our fathers we of the present day 
are little concerned. The conditions of 
life have changed. We no longer use 
the same tools nor read the same books. 



We smile even at many an old custom 
and belief. 

A few years since, and people felt 
that war was a thing of the past. No 
more wars were to be. International 
differences were to be settled by arbi- 
tration. And yet within the past dec- 
ade our nation has engaged in a war 
(unnecessary, to be sure) the issue of 
which seems destined to bring about 
great changes in our national spirit and 
policy. We have just witnessed, also, 
the close of a foreign war the most de- 
structive and sanguinary of all time. 

In this strange and wondrous course 
of events we see the chief magistrate of 
the republic become foremost actor 
in making peace between foreign na- 
tions who were at war, and then in 
cementing peace between brethren of 
a common national destiny. Of Pres- 
ident Roosevelt's recent triumph in 
the South the Congregationalist and 
Christian World well notes: — 

"As a truthful, comprehensive, and 
self -restrained compliment to Mr. Roose- 
velt, it would not be easy to surpass 
that with which General Rhodes, a 
journalist of Birmingham, Ala., pre- 
sented the President to the people of 
that city. He said: — 

'"Most genuine and cordial is the 
welcome extended by the magic city 
of the South to the Magician of Diplo- 
macy, — the Pacificator of the nations. 
All classes and creeds with hearty ac- 
claim and spontaneous enthusiasm 
greet the chief magistrate, ' *Vho cares 
not to be great, save as he serves or 
saves the State." They hail with 
honor the man who in his private life 
has established standards of thinking 
and doing that which will ennoble 
Americans and uplift and bless man- 
kind.' " 

Thus with gratitude for marvelous 
favors in the past and with hopes of 
still greater prosperity in the future 
along peaceful and industrial lines, we 
approach the Christmas season of 1905. 



Editorials 



■33 



FOREST PRESERVATION 

THE work of the American 
Forestry Association is of im- 
mediate concern to every man 
and woman in the land. The time has 
come when the preservation of our 
forests becomes a matter of public and 
private welfare. It has to do with far- 
reaching economic and hygienic utility, 
— the future prosperity and well-being 
of the State. In confirmation of the 
fact many a community has an object- 
lesson constantly before them in the 
utter desolation that follows the de- 
struction of forests. The intimate re- 
lation between woods and water supply 
must never be forgotten nor neglected. 
The diffusion of knowledge regarding 
the conservation, management, and re- 
newal of forests, the proper utilization 
of their products, methods of reforesta- 
tion of waste lands, and the planting 
of trees, is an imperative need. And 
this is one of the objects of the Ameri- 
can Forestry Association. In a strong 
plea for the conservative handling of 
forests, President Roosevelt says : — 

"It is the upper altitudes of the 
forested mountains that are most val- 
uable to the nation as a whole, especially 
because of their effects upon the water 
supply. Neither State nor nation can 
afford to turn these mountains over to 
the unrestrained greed of those who 
would exploit them at the expense of 
the future. We cannot afford to wait 
longer before assuming control, in the 
interest of the public, of these forests; 
for, if we do wait, the vested interests 
of private parties in them may become 
so strongly intrenched that it may be 
a most expensive task to oust them. 
All the higher Appalachians should be 
reserved, either by the States or by the 
nation. Such reserves would be a pay- 
ing investment, not only in protection 
to many interests, but in dollars and 
cents to the government." 

Forest preservation is of especial con- 
cern to the people who dwell in the 



vicinity of these districts. As a unit, 
they should act to the end that their 
interests and rights be conserved. 

For instance, the chief assets of the 
villages and towns in the White Moun- 
tain region are running brooks, good 
roads, and the beauties of hillside and 
mountain. Will the people sit idly 
by, and see these things despoiled of 
that which is their chief charm? The 
welfare of countless towns is at stake. 

THE LADY COOK 

THE old-time idea that cooking 
is drudgery and a work suitable 
to menials is now obsolete. 
The lady cook is in demand. Modern 
cooking calls for rare intelligence and 
that expert skill which is gained only by 
practical experience. The modern cook 
needs be versed in bacteriology, physi- 
ology, chemistry, and sanitary science; 
yet it is safe to say few cooks have re- 
ceived even a smattering of instruction 
in any of these subjects. Most women 
who have had scientific training seem 
to think they have been educated above 
housekeeping, and hence they are likely 
to make no practical use at all of their 
knowledge. There are chefs, or men 
cooks, who receive salaries of five or 
ten thousand dollars a year. But where 
are the women cooks who receive in 
compensation for services one-half or 
one-fourth of these sums ? The stand- 
ard of cookery should be raised, and 
that, too, by women, to that of other 
kinds of skilled labor. And the occu- 
pation calls for something more than 
skilled labor: it is well-nigh a profes- 
sion. 

Why do women seek to avoid the 
occupation of housekeeping, and espe- 
cially the offices that centre about 
the kitchen? Why should they not 
rather aspire to render the calling dig- 
nified and honorable? In all large 
towns there are young women, in num- 
bers, who are earning in shop and office 



n 3 4 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



from four to six or eight dollars a week. 
With this stipend they must pay living 
(expenses; and they are in constant 
anxiety about steady employment. As 
qualified cooks, many of these same 
young women might earn, at any rate 
:sape, more money, and certainly they 
<coE&ld always find steady employment. 

It is time the neat, the intelligent, 
>the skilful cook was everywhere abroad 
in the land. She is needed. Remun- 
erative business is within her reach. 
Places are waiting for her. And, be- 
sides, in qualifying for these one is 
making the very best preparation to 
undertake woman's highest calling in 
life. 



f~ -M "\HE series of articles in the 
Cooking-School Magazine by 
g Miss Mary D. Chambers em- 
ibrace a thorough and scientific study 
of foods, their nutritive and economic 
values, and the several ways of cooking 
the same. While these articles are of 
especial interest to teachers of cookery, 
intelligent housekeepers everywhere, 
who want to know the why and the 
wherefore in the use of food products 
and in the processes of cooking, cannot 
fail to receive instruction and profit 
from a careful perusal of the lessons. 
This may lead to further reading and 
study, and hence to better and more 
intelligent ways in the management of 
food and feeding in the household. 
The papers have been highly com- 
mended as something real and tangi- 
ble, something that can be referred to 
for definite and reliable information in 
cookery. 

THE PRESENT CRISIS 

PEOPLE once accepted as fact 
what was seen in print. Their 
opinions and beliefs were moulded 
by the teachings of their favorite 
newspaper. "I saw it in the Times 
or the Tribune" settled questions of 
law and gospel. But times have 



changed, and the printed page no 
longer is looked upon as oracular. 
People have grown suspicious. They 
want to know the conditions under 
which an article was written, the mo- 
tive of the writer, how much he was 
paid for it, etc. People are learning 
to think for themselves. They do not 
confine their reading to a single paper 
or periodical. They read many of 
these, and draw their own conclusions 
therefrom. The spirit of distrust is 
wide -spread. The independent voter 
is abroad in the land. 

The meaning of all this is plain. 
People want independence, the safe- 
guarding of individual rights, fair, 
honest dealing in private and public 
affairs, and an equitable share of the 
increment of wealth produced so largely 
by their labor. 

The present is called an era of good 
times, which in many respects is 
true; and yet the cost of living, in 
time of peace, was never so high. 
In the midst of great plenty the price 
of staples is advanced. Fifty cents a 
ton is added to the price of coal for 
no other apparent reason save that 
of unrighteous greed. In all parts 
of the world to-day people are becom- 
ing conscious that only "they have 
rights who dare maintain them." 

New occasions teach new duties, 
Time makes ancient good uncouth : 

They must onward still, and upward, 
Who would keep abreast of truth. 4 \ 



"Who gets most for his money? 
Probably the one whose senses are in 
good working order, whose sensitive 
nature is attuned to the beauty and 
harmony of the outer world, and who 
has time and inclination to study things 
at first hand in the open air." 



"The pity of it is that, so far as we 
are concerned, most of the beauty of 
this world goes to waste. We have no 
time to look at it and to enjoy it," 




Jftcticl) SjcrtarL 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. 



Small Shrimp Patties (Cold Hors 
d'CEuvre) 
Have, baked and cold, puff-paste pat- 
ties, not more than an inch and a half 
or two inches across. Fill these with 
a mixture of equal parts of shrimps, 
capers, olives, or gherkins, truffles, and 
celery, cut in one-eighth an inch cubes, 
and mixed with enough mayonnaise 
dressing to hold them together. Use 
paprika, generously in the dressing. 
Sprinkle the top with fine-chopped 
pimento, sifted yolk of egg, or fine- 
chopped truffles. Serve on small plates 
and paper doilies. 

Cream of Salsify or Oyster Plant 

Soup 

Scrub six salsify roots thoroughly. 
Cut off the tops, and let stand in cold 



water until ready to cook, then cook 
in boiling salted water until tender. 
Peel, and then press the roots through 
a ricer or sieve. Put the pulp at once 
with a pared onion, gashed a little, and 
a sprig or two of parsley into a double 
boiler with a pint of milk, and let 
stand over the fire until needed. Melt 
one-third a cup of butter. Cook in it 
one-third a cup of flour, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
paprika. Then add one quart of milk, 
and stir until the sauce thickens and 
boils. Then add the salsify and milk 
from the boiler, and, when again boiling, 
press through a fine puree sieve. Re- 
heat, and stir in the beaten yolks of 
two eggs, mixed with one. cup of cream. 
Finish with ,the whites of the eggs, 
beaten dry, and dropped by spoonfuls 



a 3 6 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



onto the soup poured into the tureen. 
This is a particularly delicious soup, 



and pepper. Also rub the inside with 
an onion cut in halves, and sprinkle 




Cream of Salsify or Oyster Plant Soup 



even without the addition of the cream 
and egg. 

Roast Goose 

Scrub the outside of the goose thor- 
oughly. A new, small, five-cent brush 



with powdered sage, if desired. Fill 
with stuffing or cook without stuffing, 
as fancy dictates. Cut off the neck 
bone on a line with the wing and breast 
bones, but without cutting the skin; 
fold the neck skin down over the back, 



Goose Trussed for Roasting 



is good for this purpose. Rinse out- 
side and in. Dry thoroughly with a 
cloth, then rub the inside with salt 



and fasten it in place with a trussing 
needle threaded with twine. Run the 
needle through one wing, the skin 



Seasonable Recipes 



237 



folded over the back, the other wing, 
and back the same way to the first 
wing, where a knot is made. Leave a 
stitch nearly an inch in length on the 
back and also on the, second wing. 
When the goose is cooked, the latter 
stitch is cut, and the string drawn out 
by the knot. Sew up the opening 
made in dressing the fowl. Run the 
threaded trussing needle through the leg 
and body, and out through the opposite 
leg. Return the needle in the same 
way, leaving a stitch nearly an inch 
long on the outside of the leg. Plan 
to have the needle come through about 
an inch from the point of entrance, and 
tie the thread in a knot. If the goose 
be not more than five or six months old, 



prunes, sprinkled with chopped pistachio 
nuts. The leg and wing bones are 
covered with paper frills. 

Prune Stuffing for Roast Goose 
Soak one-fourth a pound of prunes 
over night in cold water. Drain, cover 
with boiling water, and cook until 
nearly tender. Blanch one cup of rice, 
add the prune juice and water to make 
about three cups in all, also a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and cook until the rice is 
tender. Add the prunes, stoned and 
cut in pieces, a dozen French chestnuts, 
blanched, boiled, and cut in pieces, half 
a cup of butter, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, and cinnamon, if desired. Mix 
thoroughly, and it is ready to use. The 

















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Roast Goose : Rings of Cooked Apples with Cooked Prunes and Chopped Pistachio Nuts 



it may be roasted. If older, it is usually 
better to steam or parboil it about two 
hours, then dredge with flour and salt, 
and cook in the oven about an hour, 
basting every ten minutes with dripping, 
salt-pork fat, or melted butter. The 
goose is done when the joints separate 
easily. Serve with apple or gooseberry 
sauce. The goose shown in the illus- 
tration, is nearly one year old, and 
is stuffed with prune stuffing. The 
dish is garnished with rings of apple, 
cooked tender in syrup holding cooked 



recipe for stuffing, given in the Novem- 
ber magazine, for roast pig is suitable 
for roast goose also. 

Chicken en Casserole, Spanish Style 
Separate a fowl into pieces at the 
joints. Chop fine an onion and about 
an ounce of ham. Melt one-fourth a 
cup of butter in a frying-pan. In this 
brown the pieces of fowl, removing 
them as cooked to the casserole. Then 
brown the onion and ham in the pan, 
and add these to the casserole with 



2 3 8 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



one quart of hot, white broth or boiling 
water, one pint of hot, stewed tomatoes, 
one cup of rice, boiled five minutes, 




Stuffed Veal and Lamb Hearts with Stringless Beans 



drained, rinsed in cold water, and 
drained again, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
one green pepper pod, freed from seeds 
and sliced. Cover the dish closely, and 
let simmer in the oven or on top of the 
range an hour and a half or longer, ac- 
cording to age. Add more salt before 
serving, if needed. 

Veal or Lamb Hearts, Stuffed 
Wash and cleanse the hearts. Wipe 
dry, and fill the cavities with bread 
dressing. Draw the sides together at 



about three hours, then dredge with 
flour, salt, and pepper. Cook in the 
oven about half an hour, basting three 

or four times 
with bacon 
or salt-pork 
fat. Serve 
hot, sur- 
rounded with 
buttered string 
beans or 
peas (canned 
this season) 
or with to- 
mato sauce. 
To serve, be- 
gin at the 
pointed end, and cut in thin slices. 
Serve, also, cold, with salad, cut in 
cubes, in cream sauce, or with potatoes, 
green peppers, and bacon as hash. 

Brussels Sprouts with Cream 
Pick over the sprouts, removing im- 
perfect leaves. Let stand in cold water 
in which a tablespoonful of salt has 
been dissolved for an hour or more, 
then skim from the water, and set to 
cook in plenty of boiling salted water. 
Let cook until tender, about fifteen 




Hearts Stuffed and Trussed for Baking 

the top with a needle threaded with minutes, then drain and turn into a 

twine, to hold in the dressing. Set saucepan containing nearly a cup (for 

on a rack in a steam kettle, and cook a quart of sprouts) of thick cream, 



Seasonable Recipes 



239 




scalding hot. Sprinkle with salt and firm. Remove from the spoons with 
pepper, and turn over and over in the care, drain on a cloth or in a colander, 
cream, then pour into the serving- and set one upon each artichoke bot- 
dish. A very thin (one level 
tablespoonf ul of flour to- a cup 
of milk) white sauce may re- 
place the cream. To this lat- 
ter sauce beat in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter just before 
adding the sprouts. 

Artichoke Bottoms with 
Spinach Quenelles 

Vegetable Entree for Dinner or 
Luncheon 

Chop very fine boiled spin- 
ach. For three-fourths a cup of the pre- 
pared spinach melt two tablespoonf uls of 
butter in a saucepan. Add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, and 
half a teaspoonful of sugar, and cook 
until well yellowed. Then add a table- 
spoonful of cream and the hot spinach. 
Stir and cook until the boiling-point is 
reached, then remove from the fire, and 
beat in, one at a time, two eggs. Butter 
as many table or dessert spoons as will 
stand side by side in a frying-pan of 
boiling salted water. Fill these with 



Artichoke Bottoms with Spinach Quenelles 

torn, made hot in well- seasoned broth 
and drained. Pour over the whole a 
cup of Hollandaise sauce, and garnish 
each quenelle with a slice of hard- 
cooked egg. 

Hollandaise Sauce 
Let one-fourth a cup of vinegar and 
six or eight pepper-corns stand over 
the fire until the vinegar is nearly 
evaporated, then add a tablespoonf ul 
of cold water and the beaten yolks of 
three eggs. Beat thoroughly, then add 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, and set 




Fillets of Lamb with Artichoke Bottom; 



the spinach mixture, letting it round a 
little on top. Set them into the water, 
and let simmer until the mixture is 



the saucepan into a dish of hot^water. 
Beat and stir thoroughly, adding a 
tablespoonf ul of butter at a time, until 



240 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



half a cup in all has been used. Finish 
with a tablespoonful of lemon juice and 
salt and paprika to taste. 




Artichoke Bottoms, St. George Style 



Fillets of Lamb on Artichoke 
Bottoms 
Have half a cup of carrots cut in 
figures or juliennes, ai^o half a cup of 
bits of onion. Put these over the fire 
with two or three tablespoonfuls of 
butter, cover and let cook very slowly, 
stirring occasionally until they begin 
to be tender, then add one-fourth a 
pound of small mushrooms, nicely 
peeled. Add more butter, if needed, 
and let cook about five minutes, then 
add half a cup of lean, cooked ham, 
cut in small squares. Let cook five 



cup of stock. When the whole is very 
hot, stir in very gradually, little by 
little, three tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Do not add the butter 
until the moment ar- 
rives when the sauce is 
to be poured over the 
finished dish. Have 
ready, broiled, six 
small rounds (noi- 
settes) , cut from a loin 
of lamb, also six arti- 
choke bottoms re- 
moved from a can, 
and made hot in white 
stock. Drain the 
artichoke bottoms, 
set a round of lamb on each, and pour 
over the sauce seasoned to taste with 
salt and pepper. Serve as an entree at 
dinner or luncheon. (A noisette of 
lamb is the "eye" of a chop, or the 
solid piece of meat on one side of the 
bone.) 

Artichoke Bottoms, St. George 
Style 

Cold Entree for Dinner or Luncheon 
Cut heart stalks of celery in thin (less 
than one-fourth an inch) slices, and 
cut these slices, according to size, into 




Oyster Plant or Salsify Salad. Page 241 



minutes, then add half a cup of white 
stock and half a cup of glaze, or, if 
glaze be not at hand, use a second half 



two or three bits. Cut cooked chicken 
breast in similar pieces. Take one cup 
of each. Season with salt and pa- 



Seasonable Recipes 



241 



prika, also, if an acid taste is desired, 
a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Mix 
thoroughly, then add three rounding 
tablespoonfuls, each, of may- 
onnaise dressing and aspic jelly 
just on the point of setting. 
Set the. dish containing the in- 
gredients in a pan of ice and 
water, and mix thoroughly, 
while the mixture begins to 
set. Have ready a can of 
artichoke bottoms, drained, 
thoroughly seasoned with salt, 
paprika, oil, and lemon juice, 
and chilled. When the celery 
and chicken mixture begins to 
set, dispose it on the artichoke 
bottoms, rounding it to a dome shape 
and making it perfectly smooth with a 
silver knife. Press blanched pistachio 
nuts, split in halves, on the sides, with a 
few chopped nuts on the top and around 
the line where the mixture meets the 
artichoke. As soon as the nuts ad- 
here to the surface, pour over the 
whole a little half-set aspic jelly, and let 
stand in a cold place until ready to serve. 
The quantity of salad indicated will fill 
eight or ten artichoke bottoms. Truffles 
or hard-cooked egg may replace the 
nuts, and egg or nuts the chicken. 

Oyster Plant or 
Salsify Salad 

Scrub the salsify, 
and cook, without 
removing the skin, 
in boiling salted water 
until tender. Peel 
and cut in thin slices. 
Season with salt and 
pepper, cover and set 
aside to become cold. 
For a pint of sliced 
salsify take six table- 
spoonfuls of oil, and 
gradually beat into it 
four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or 
three of vinegar, and about half a tea- 
spoonful of onion juice. When thor- 



oughly mixed, pour over the chilled 
salsify. Turn the slices over and over 
until they have taken up the dressing, 




Apple Pie decorated with Cream and Cheese 

and set aside until ready to serve. 
Serve on heart leaves of lettuce, also 
dressed with oil vinegar, salt, and 
pepper. Garnis±± with figures cut from 
thin slices of pickled beet. 

Apple Pie Decorated with Cream 

and Cheese 
Make an apple pie after your favorite 
recipe. Have ready a cream cheese, 
pressed through a ricer, and a cup of 
double cream, beaten solid. Cut and fold 
into the cheese as much of the cream as it 
will take up. Add also a few grains of salt. 




Cheese Cutlets. See page 242 

Pipe the mixture onto the top of the pie 
in any pattern that suits the fancy. 
Serve as dessert at luncheon or dinner. 



^4 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Cheese Cutlets 
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Cook in it four level tablespoonfuls of 




Nesselrode Pudding 

cornstarch, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and paprika. Then add 
one cup of rich milk or thin cream, 
and stir and cook until the mixture 
thickens. Then stir in half a cup or 
more of grated cheese, sage or Par- 
mesan, and one cup of mild American 
factory cheese, cut in tiny cubes. Mix 
thoroughly, adding more salt and 
paprika, if needed, then spread in but- 
tered cutlet moulds or shape with the 



the cutlets, and fry in deep fat. Serve 
for luncheon or supper, with bread and 
butter and with or without a green salad. 

Apples Baked with 
Almonds 

Dessert for Luncheon or 
Dinner 

Core and pare six 
tart apples. Let sim- 
mer in a cup and a 
half, each, of sugar 
and water, boiled to 
a syrup until tender. 
Turn the apples often, 
and watch carefully, to 
keep them whole. A 
little lemon juice will 
improve the flavor of 
some apples, or, if the cut side of 
a lemon be rubbed over the apples 
as they are peeled, it will keep them 
white during the cooking. Set the 
tender apples in an au gratin dish, 
and press into them blanched almonds, 
split in halves. Dredge the apples and 
nuts with sugar, and set into the oven 
to become delicately browned. Serve 
hot with jelly and whipped cream, one 
or both. 




Apples Baked with Almonds 

hands into cutlets. If moulds are Nesselrode Pudding 

used, remove the mixture while it is Shell and blanch, at the same time, 

still warm. " Kgg-and-bread crumb" enough French or common chestnuts 



Seasonable Recipes 



243 



to fill a cup. Cook these until tender 
in boiling water, then drain, mash, 
and, finally, pre s through a fine sieve. 
Blanch half a cup of almonds. Chop 
fine, then pound them in a mortar. 
Select three-fourths a cup of mixed 
fruit, — candied cherries, pineapple, 
ginger, citron, raisins and currants. 
Boil the raisins and currants in water 
to cover until tender, drain, add the 
other fruit, cut in pieces, and pour over 
the whole two or three tablespoonfuls 
of sherry wine and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract. Boil one 
cup of sugar and one-fourth a cup of 
water to a syrup. Let cool slightly, 
and pour in a fine stream on the yolks 
of three eggs, beaten light. Stir and 
cook over hot water until the mixture 
thickens a little, then beat until cold. 
Add one cup of cream, the almonds 
and chestnuts, and press through a 
very fine sieve. Then freeze as any 
ice-cream. Take out the dasher, beat 
in the fruit, and put the mixture into 
a mould. Pack in ice and salt, using 
four measures of the former to one 
of the latter. Let stand an hour or 
more. When unmoulded, sprinkle with 
chopped pistachio nuts, and finish 
with two or three cherries. Serve 
with whipped cream, sweetened and 
flavored before whipping. 

Chestnut Cup 
Have ready vanilla ice-cream, plain 
cream, sweetened and flavored to taste 
and beaten firm, and chestnuts cooked 
in vanilla or lemon syrup and then cut 
in slices. Dispose the chestnut slices, 
with a little syrup, in the bottom of 
sherbet or other glasses. Put in a 
spoonful of ice-cream and then a little 
whipped cream. 

Christmas Plum Pudding 
Chop fine half a pound of beef suet. 
Mix with it half a cup of flour, sifted 
with a teaspoonful, each, of mace, 



cinnamon, and nutmeg. Then add half 
a pound, each, of sultana raisins or 
large raisins, seeded and cut in halves, 
and cleaned currants, one-fourth a 
pound of citron, cut very fine, half a 
cup of sugar, preferably brown, and 
one cup and a half of fine, soft bread 
crumbs, and mix together thoroughly. 
Beat three eggs until very light and 
thick. Add half a cup of cream or 
rich milk, and use to mix the whole to 
a dough. The mixture should be quite 
stiff, but a little more milk or two or 
three tablespoonfuls of sherry wine or 
brandy may be required. Steam six 
hours. Serve with hard or liquid 
sauce, or with both. 

Hard Sauce 
Beat half a cup of butter to a cream, 
then gradually beat in a cup of sugar. 
When very light, beat in gradually 
the white of one egg, beaten dry, and 
a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or 
one or two tablespoonfuls of sherry 
wine. 

Christmas Fig Pudding 
Chop fine half a pound of beef suet. 
Mix thoroughly with one cup of flour, 
then add a pound of figs, chopped fine, 
one cup of brown sugar, rolled smooth, 
and a section of candied orange peel, 
simmered in syrup and chopped fine. 
Mix all together thoroughly. Pass 
through a sieve, together, two cups of 
sifted flour, two level teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of cloves, 
half a grated nutmeg, and half a tea- 
spoonful, each, of cinnamon and mace. 
Then sift again into the other ingre- 
dients, and mix the whole together 
thoroughly. Beat two eggs, add half 
a cup of sweet milk, and stir into the 
dry ingredients to form a stiff dough. 
Turn into a buttered mould, and steam 
six hours. Serve with hard or liquid 
pudding sauce. 



Menus for a Week in December 



In tfje seasoning of otsfjes tfje American cook, as a rule, uses too mud} pepper ano 5£nglish sauces, 
oberoose of conotments kills the finer tastes. — Chef of the St. Regis, New York City. 



&n 





"Breakfast 


"Breakfast 






Baked Apples, Cream. 


Cereal. 






Bacon. Parker House Rolls. 


Sausage. Apple Sauce. 






Coffee. 


Buckwheat Cakes. 
Coffee. 






"Dinner 




3 


>• 




Luncheon 


W 


< 


Ribs of Beef, Roasted. 
Whole Potatoes Fried in Deep Fat. 


Cream-of-Celery Soup, Browned Crackers. 

Apple Pie. 

Coffee. 


2 


55 


Spiced Currants. 


m 


D 


Braised Celery. 


C/3 

o 
> 


CO 


Squash Pie. 


"Dinner 




Coffee. 


Broiled Beef Tenderloin, Maitre d'Hotel Butter. 


< 




Supper 


Saratoga Potatoes. 






Creamed Salsify. Lettuce Salad. 






Oyster Stew (Chafing-dish). 


Coffee Bavarian Cream. 






Celery-and-Pineapple Salad. 


Tea. 





"Breakfast 
Toasted Boston Brown Bread in Cream 

Sauce with Cheese. 

Baked Potatoes. Bacon Broiled in Oven. 

Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Soup. 

Cold Roast Beef, Sliced Thin. 

Escaloped Potatoes. 

Baked Squash. 

Rice Pudding with Raisins. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans (Dried). 

Entire-wheat Bread and Butter. 

Cereal, Milk. Cocoa. 



"Breakfast 

Hominy, Cream. 

Baked Sweet Apples. 

Broiled Ham, White Hashed Potatoes. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Baked Beans, New York Style. Cole Slaw. 

Rye Bread and Butter. 

Coffee Jelly, Whipped Cream. 

"Dinner 

Broiled Tripe. 

Baked Potatoes. Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Baked Indian Pudding, with Sweet Apples. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. 

Coffee. 



"Breakfast 

Roast Beef-and-Potato Hash. 
Horseradish or Worcestershire Sauce. 
Corn -meal Mush, Fried. 
Coffee. 

"Dinner 

Salt Mackerel, Boiled, Egg Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Boiled Cauliflower. 

Mince Pie. Cheese. Coffee. 

Supper 
Rice Cooked with Tomato, 

Broth, and Cheese. 
Lettuce -and-Lima Bean Salad. 
Graham Bread and Butter. 
Tea. Cocoa. 



"Breakfast 

Hot Cereal. Bananas. 

Fruit Buns. 

Coffee. 

"Dinner * 

Fish (Fresh or Salt) Chowder. Pickles. 

Tomato Jelly. Cheese Cutlets. 

Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding. 

Coffee. 

Supper 

Baltimore Samp, Cream, Maple Sugar. 

Dried Beef. Graham Bread. 

Tea. Cocoa. 



breakfast 

Cereal. Bananas. 

Broiled Ham. 

Creamed Potatoes. 

Rice Griddle-cakes. 

Coffee. 



"Dinner 

Boiled Leg of Lamb. 

French Turnips, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Boiled Potatoes. Celery, French 

Dressing. 

German Apple Cake, Hard Sauce. 

Tea. 



Supper 
Macaroni Milanaise. 

Canned Fruit. 

Bread and Butter. 

Tea. 



Economical Menus for One Week in 

December 

"Efjf stStntarg man must not tat tlje trtnntr ot tijt artist, robust man." 



'Breakfast 


"Breakfast 




Crisp Rolls (Reheated). Marmalade. 
Coffee. 


Baltimore Samp, Molasses, Milk. 
Bacon. Fried Potatoes. 

Muffins. 




c Dinner 


Banana Coffee. 


3 


Cream-of-Celery Soup. 


Luncheon 


o 

w 

C/3 


Roast Spare Ribs. 


Cheese Cutlets or Cheese Pudding. 


Mashed Potatoes. 


Toasted Muffins. 


Cole Slaw. 


Stewed Tomatoes. 


Apple Tapioca Pudding, Milk, Sugar. 




d 


Tea. 


'Dinner 


> 
>< 




Succotash (Canned Corn, Dried Beans). 


Supper 


Bread and Butter. 




Crackers. Cheese. Milk. 


Steamed Suet Pudding (Figs or Dates). 




Apple Sauce. 


Liquid Sauce. 




Hot Cereal Coffee. 


Coffee. 





Breakfast 

Hot Cereal. 

Finnan Haddie Cooked in Milk. 

White Hashed Potatoes. 

Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 

Lima Beans (Dried), Buttered. 

Bread and Butter. 

Tea. 

'Dinner 

Hamburg Steak, Broiled. 
Scalloped Tomatoes. Baked Potatoes. 

Nuts. Fudge. 

Coffee. 



'Breakfast 

Cream Toast with Cheese 
(Boston Brown or Graham Bread). 

Hot Apple Sauce. 
Doughnuts. Coffee. 

Luncheon 
Noisette Bread (Entire Wheat with Whole 

Filberts) with Butter. 
Orange Marmalade. Banana Pie. 

Cocoa. 

'Dinner 

Veal Heart, Stuffed, Tomato Sauce. 
Mashed Turnips. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
Stewed Figs, Cream. 
Cereal Coffee. 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Finnan Haddie au Gratin. 


Baked Potatoes. 




Yeast Rolls, Reheated. 


Smoked Halibut, Picked and Broiled. 




Fried Mush. Coffee. 


Yeast Rolls, Reheated. 
Coffee. 




Luncheon 


Luncheon 


*Q 


Cold Lima Beans, French Dressing. 


Canned Corn Chowder. 


5* 


Graham Bread and Butter. 


Hard Crackers. Pickles. 


i— < 

> 


Hot Coffee. 


Oatmeal Macaroons. 




Tea. 


< 


'Dinner 


'Dinner 




Cold Spare Ribs, Baked Squash. 


Baked Fillets of Fish. 




Baltimore Samp in Cream Sauce and Parsley. 


Fish Bechamel Sauce. 




Apple Sauce. 


Scalloped Potatoes and Onions. 




Chocolate Bread Pudding, Hard Sauce. 


Apple Pie. Cottage Cheese. 




Tea. 


Coffee. 





Breakfast 

Sausage (Baked). Apple 

Sauce. 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes. 

Cereal Coffee. 



Luncheon 

Kidney Bean Soup. 

Croutons. 

Mince Pie. 

Tea. 



Dinner 

Cold Stuffed Heart, Sliced 

Thin. 

Scalloped Cabbage. 

' French Fried Potatoes. 

Apples Baked with Almonds. 

Coffee. 



Little Dinners for Christmas-tide 

i 

Jellied Consomme on Lettuce Leaves. 
Fried Fillets of Fish. Tomato Mayonnaise. 

Roasted Wild Duck, Hominy Croquettes en Surprise (Currant Jelly within). 
Celery with Oil and Claret Vinegar. 
Chestnut Cup. 
Nuts. Bonbons. Coffee. 



II 

Cream-of-Salsify or Oyster-plant Soup. 

Fried Oysters, Celery Mayonnaise. 

Chicken Cooked en Casserole. Brussels Sprouts, Buttered. 

Lettuce, French Dressing. Cheese Balls. 

Plum Pudding, Egg-Nog Sauce, Frozen. 

Orange Sherbet with Fruit. 

Coffee. 



Ill 

Tiny Lobster Patties (Bouchees). Consomme Julienne 

Baked Turbans of Fish, Hollandaise Sauce. 

Roast Saddle of Young Pork. 

Cress-and-Apple Salad. 

Mashed Potatoes. Turnips in Bechamel Sauce. 

Mince-meat Tarts. Quince Ice-cream. 

Nuts. Bonbons. Coffee. 



IV (Chafing-dish) 



Clam Broth. 
Chicken Souffle, Mushroom Sauce. Saratoga Potatoes (Reheated). 

Yeast Rolls. Sweet Pickles. Currant Jelly. 
Mayonnaise of Celery and Nuts. 
\ Chestnut Cup. 

Bonbons. Grapes. Nuts. 
Coffee. 



After Breakfast Chat 



By Janet M. Hill 

"A ravenous appetite is no dinner appetite." 

"THE early dinner should be preferred to the late one, but nearly every evil may be averted 
by taking a good meat lunch in the middle of the day." 



IT seems considerable of an effort — 
and possibly misdirected effort — 
to prepare three full meals for a 
family during the short days of win- 
ter. Still, if the hours of activity be 
not lessened, why cut down the num- 
ber of meals? Then, too, at this sea- 
son of all others, the time of meals, 
especially of the dinner, is a hard mat- 
ter to adjust to the satisfaction of all 
the members of a family. Of dinner 
at night many things may be said in 
favor, but the bed- time hour needs 
be late to insure that digestion be well 
under way before sleep practically 
puts an end to the process. 

A strong tendency seems to be 
abroad to reduce the substantial meals 
to one, and that to be taken at night, 
after bodily activity and the conse- 
quent need of food is over. Such a 
procedure in case of young folk is 
reprehensible, indeed. 

Let the meal at night be dinner, 
if you will; but see to it that the food 
provided does not tax the digestive 
powers unduly. Also make sure that 
breakfast and luncheon be such that 
the needs of the body are amply pro- 
vided for. Then, and only then, will 
the active, growing child eat at night 
with moderation. With the light din- 
ner at night, youth, at least, demand 
a generous breakfast. School chil- 



dren, whose stomachs are empty by 
eleven in the morning, and have noth- 
ing but a meagre sandwich and apple 
between that hour and the six-o'clock 
dinner, have their food supply on the 
wrong side of the balance sheet. Such 
feeding is the main cause of nervous 
breakdown on the part of many school 
children. A properly fed youth may 
spend eight or nine hours at books with 
ever-increasing profit to health and 
morals. 

Complying with several requests for 
something novel in the way of a Christ- 
mas entree, we give in our recipes 
three dishes in which artichoke bot- 
toms are used. These dishes will be 
in demand only by those in quest of 
novelties; for the fresh artichokes, 
imported from France, sell at not less 
than 35 cents each, and, for the dishes 
suggested, a whole one is needed for 
each service. Still, as the leaves are 
not called for in these recipes, it were 
quite as well to provide the canned 
bottoms, which come at about 50 
cents per can. The can contains about 
six bottoms. If part of a can be "left 
over," these may be served at a later 
meal, cut in pieces, and dressed as a 
salad, or, mixed with a rich Bechamel 
sauce, as a filling for patty or Swed- 
ish timbale cases. 

At this season choice vegetable en- 



248 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



trees can be supplied at no great ex- 
pense from cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, 
egg plant, and salsify. The simplest 
ways of cooking these are the best, 
except, occasionally, for variety. Hol- 
landaise sauce with cauliflower, rich 
cream with Brussels sprouts, and cream 
sauce with salsify can rarely be im- 
proved upon. Cheese may be added 
to any one of these vegetables, when 
it is intended for the principal dish 
of the meal. 

Hollandaise sauce proves trouble- 
some to many a cook. Let such a 
cook remember that Hollandaise sauce 
and "boiled" custard belong to the 
same class of dishes; and, if she ex- 
tend to the cooking of the sauce the 
same care that she exercises in the 
cooking of the custard, she will have 
no occasion to present a curdled Hol- 
landaise. It is customary to begin 
with the beaten egg yolks; but these 
might be cooked in the hot water in 
the same manner as, in the custard, 
they are cooked in the milk, except 
that the butter needs be added, a 
tablespoonful or more at a time, as 
the cooking goes on. If the sauce 
should curdle, it may be gradually 
beaten into two tablespoonfuls of hot 
Bechamel or cream sauce. If this be 
done over hot water and with care, a 
perfectly smooth sauce results. 

In the recipe, "fillets of lamb on 
artichoke bottoms," the vegetables and 
ham with the stock take the place of 
a sauce. Glaze, or rather demi-glaze, 
which is stock less reduced than glaze, 
is, for this dish, preferable to ordinary 
soup stock. By vigorous stirring, 
considerably more butter than the 
quantity given in the recipe may 
be beaten into the stock, to give 
a smooth, slightly thickened, and rich 
sauce. 

The tomato mayonnaise served with 
the fried fillets of fish, in the first 
"little dinner for Christmas-tide," is 
a change from the stereotyped sauce 



tartare. Let the strained tomato cook 
until very thick. Then, when cold, 
beat enough of it into a thick mayon- 
naise dressing to tint and flavor to 
taste. Let stand in a cold place until 
ready to serve. 

Among the economical dishes of 
considerable food value suggested in 
the menus, we commend Baltimore 
samp. One of the newer ways in 
which this may be served is in a tomato 
sauce with cheese. 

The cheese cutlets shown in one of 
our illustrations contain no egg, save 
that used in the "egg-and-bread- 
crumbing" for the frying. The egg 
may be used, perhaps, to better advan- 
tage with the cheese, milk, and bread in 
the form of a savory pudding; but 
the change in the appearance and 
flavor of dishes cooked in deep fat 
is sometimes worth more than the 
loss in nutritive value occasioned by 
such cookery. 

Fondant candies and frostings made 
of boiled sugar are quite universally 
attempted at this season. In all sugar 
boiling, when the syrup is undisturbed 
after boiling begins, to insure the thor- 
ough melting of the sugar before boil- 
ing begins, use cold water, and stir 
during the melting of the sugar. When 
the sugar is melted and just before 
boiling begins, wash down the sides 
of the saucepan, and add cream of 
tartar or other acid called for^. Now 
cover the dish for three or four min- 
utes, that the steam from the boiling 
syrup may melt any stray grains of 
sugar that have been thrown up on 
the sides of the kettle. Let the boil- 
ing be at a rapid rate and without 
moving the saucepan. In making fon- 
dant, when the right degree is reached, 
pour the syrup on to the platter or 
slab, set in a cold place. 

The casserole shown on page 218 was 
designed and made by N. G. Wood & 
Sons, silversmiths and jewellers, 128 
Tremont St., Boston. 



Toothsome Daynties of Y e Olden Time 

By Alice Gibson 



IT has always been supposed that 
our ancestors, even to the fourth 
and fifth generation, lived in ease 
and luxury; but most of us have no 
idea of the odd, delicious, and alto- 
gether delightful dainties upon which 
they were wont to feast. While every- 
thing was highly seasoned and very 
carefully prepared, the extravagance of 
the day seems to have been not so 
much in the quantity of rich material 
used as in a judicious mixture of just 
the right ingredients and those of the 
very best. The most frequent flavor 
for cakes and desserts of all kinds seems 
to have been a "cupful" of "wine, 
brandy, and rose-water"; and in the 
old-fashioned sweets this flavor was 
the crowning touch of elegance, mak- 
ing the simple little jumbles and seed 
cakes (accompanied by a glass of sherry 
or sack) fit to set before King George 
himself. 

That even the homely vegetables 
were made use of in those days of hos- 
pitality and good cheer may be seen 
in an old recipe for 

Carrot Pudding 
Put to a Quart of Milch 6 Eggs a 
little rose water and Gill of Sack a 
little Nutmeg and Cinnamon beat n 6 oz 
of Bisket grate the best Part of Carrot 
grated; \ a lb of Sugar and Mix all 
well together and Set as before Y u W n 
Cold put J a lb of Butter melted Thick 
put in a Dish buttered Puff paist about 
the Edges or not and bake in \ an hour. 
Serve Hott with white Sugar over it. 

Though the "best part of Carrot" 
seems very little for a whole pudding, 
which requires a "Quart of Milch" and 
six eggs, doubtless, when finished, the 
little vegetable was completely over- 
whelmed by all the other choice in- 
gredients, which make this good "Hott 



Pudding. ' ' And, when we consider that, 
according to one old cook-book, you 
must "Always observe in All Puddings 
etc. to Strain the Eggs," a superfine 
sweet should result, even if a cabbage 
head had been the foundation. 

Potatoe Pudding 
Boyle the Potatoes very Well mash 
them With a Ladle put the Butter to 
Them and a little Cream Eggs rose 
water Spice Put in a Paist stick it 
with Citern and Bake It well. 

This allows a great deal of latitude 
in the amount of "Potatoes Eggs rose 
water," but, when you "Stick it with 
Citern and Bake It well," you may be 
sure you will have a good pudding in 
spite of yourself. 

If one wearies of vegetables as a 
dessert, grains or cereals may be used ; 
and, for the modern "breakfast-food" 
fiend, what could be more suitable than 
this old recipe? 

For a Baked Oatmell Pudding 
Take 2 Quarts of Small oatmell and 
Sift it very fine and put 2 Quarts of 
Milch Boyling and take another pint of 
Milch which Mix with your Oatmell 
and when the other Boyles put it in 
by Degrees and Keep it Stirring as for 
a Hasty Pudding till it Thickens then 
take it of w h Cold Melt a £ lb of Butter 
thick and put to it with 8 Eggs Beaton 
half a lb of Sugar and 1 Nutmeg grated 
and Mix all well together and Bake it 
in a Crust with 2 ounces of Citern att 
top as for an Orange Pudding 

Serve Hott w th white Sugar Over. 

The directions seem a little bewilder- 
ing, after the resemblance to hasty 
pudding has been reached, but, if we 
remember that "take it of w h Cold 
melt," etc., only needs a few commas 



5° 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



and a little different spelling to make it, 
"Take it off, when cold, melt," our 
oatmeal pudding will taste just as 
good to us as it did to the ancient squire 
whose good wife spent hours in her 
kitchen, superintending — nay, even 
mixing — it herself. 

If the squire happened to be rich in 
land only, — in fact, as we say now, 
"land-poor," — it would, no doubt, have 
suited him to eat this simple dessert 
called 

Poor Man's Pudding 
A 4 cent Loaf of Bread grated fine 
i lb of Raisons i lb of Browned Sugar 
i J a lb of Beeves Suet chopped fine 
Tyed in a Cloth and Boyled 3 H rs 

While no sauce is given, no doubt "a 
glass of Wine, Brandy and rose water" 
would be the foundation for an other- 
wise plain sauce, sweetened and further 
flavored with nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Arrowroot evidently took the place 
of our cornstarch; and, while in these 
days we would wait until the pudding 
became cold before eating, "In Y e 
Olden Time" their haste to eat seems 
to have been as great as their haste to 
make this 

Hasty Pudding 
A Glass 3 parts full of Arrow root 
2 Quarts of Milch 4 Eggs Take Milch 
enough to Thin the Root then Pour 
Eggs and Arrowroot together Boyl the 
rem dr ° Milch and Stir them in Ready 
for Use 

Baked Apple Pudding 

12 Vandiver Apples stewed very Fine 
2 1 a lb of Butter stirred in Wh n Apples 
are near Cold Sugar to Y r Taste a 
Glass of Wine rose water and Brandy 
nutmeg and Cinnamon; 7 Eggs and 
2 Handsful of Bisket grated very Fine. 

For Chiscakes Super Fine 
Take a Quart of Curd and bruise it 



well then Add 6 Eggs a little Sack rose 
water and a Few Jordon Almonds 
Blancht and beaton one nutmeg grated 
and 14 Ounces of White Sugar 2 ounces 
of Bisket grated and Mix all Well to- 
gether then Add a lb of Butter Melted 
thick and f a lb of Currants then shet 
Y r Hoops; with Golden puff Paist fill 
and Bake in half n h r with Citern att 
top The Sack almonds Bisket and 
Citern you may leave of if Y u will. 

Although there are so many of these 
ingredients which "y u may leave of if 
Y u will," it seems a pity to make any 
change in such an odd recipe, which will 
surely make a very rich and indigesti- 
ble "Chiscake" if followed to the let- 
ter, though it is hard to understand 
just what is meant by the sentence, 
"then shet Y r Hoops"; and the 
"Goldon puff Paist" does sound very 
light and flaky, whether it is used in 
the "Paist" or is baked first, the "Chis- 
cakes" being poured in on the cooked 
crust. However, it will certainly make 
a most attractive dessert if the direc- 
tions are carefully followed. 

While most of us are well acquainted 
with "Whips," the following is very 
different from our syllabub, and would 
be quite ornamental at a pink or yellow 
luncheon, though it does seem as 
though the proper way to enjoy this 
"Whippe Sulley Bubb" would be to 
drink it, having first stirred m the white 
of the egg. 

Whippe Sulley Bubbs 
Take a pint of Creame and a Pint of 
white Wine fill Ye Glasses \ full with 
white Wine and sweeten with Sugar 
y n fill up with Creame then beat the 
whites of 4 Eggs with a Wisk into a 
froth which Putt on the top of the 
Glasses Note for redd fill with redd 
Wine and for Amber Colord fill with 
Sack and Mix a little with the White 
of Egg. . 



.--•v 



J HOME IDEAS and ECONOMIES j 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be paid for at 
reasonable rates. 



Xmas Suggestions 

TO the girl who longs to be gener- 
ous and has to be economical the 
coming of Christmas is not unmixed 
joy, and I want to give her the benefit 
of some of my experiences. 

The very best foundation for inex- 
pensive Christmas presents is a yard 
of butcher's linen, price thirty to thirty- 
five cents. Out of this one can get 
from six to sixteen gifts, according to 
size and the ingenuity of the designer. 
Turn-overs and collar and cuffs sets 
are in every one's thoughts, but here 
is a newer idea. Make your collar as 
usual, hemstitching the edges, then 
make a little hemstitched tab like 
this or this 



Be sure to get sufficient shape where 
the tab and the collar join, or it 
will not fit properly. A wheel or a 
"spider" in the centre of the tab or 
at each of the lower corners adds greatly 
to its beauty, but in its simplest form 
this collar will be found universally be- 
coming. 

You can make endless doilies from 
your yard of linen. Cut them square, 
fringe, and double hemstitch, or cut 
them round, mark in scallops with a 
spool, and buttonhole either with heavy 



white mercerized cotton or with col- 
ored silk. I have just finished a set of 
six, two pink, two pale blue, and two 
light green. They really are very 
effective, and I am planning six more 
for some one else, two white, two yel- 
low, and two pale green. You can cut 
them any size, according to your cloth. 
No housekeeper can have too many, 
and they are so conveniently sent by 
mail. 

Then I cut a strip of linen twelve 
by six inches, embroidered my friend's 
initials on it with heavy cotton, folded 
it over, and made a bag six inches 
square, the open end fastened with two 
tiny buttons and buttonholes. 

Then from some odds and ends of 
nainsook, left over from another gift 
of which I will tell you presently, I 
made a sachet just large enough to 
slip into the bag, perfuming it with 
five cents' worth of powder. This 
makes a very pretty sachet, and one 
which can be kept fresh and dainty, 
as the inner bag slips out so easily 
and the outside launders beautifully. I 
made another bag with the initials, but 
without the sachet, as a handkerchief 
case for a girl who travels a great deal. 
You will be surprised to find how far 
your yard goes, and the weave is so 
coarse that you can work on it by lamp- 
light, — an important consideration for 
the girl who is busy all day. 

A charming apron is made by put- 
ting four fancy handkerchiefs together 
to form a square. Sew a casing diagon- 
ally across ' the top handkerchief, run 
a ribbon through it for a belt, and the 



5 2 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



upper half of the handkerchief forms 

a bewitching little bib. Of course, you 

understand that this apron is put on 

diagonally, with a point for the bottom 

and one for the bib, 

But the achievement of which I am 

proudest is my embroidered chemise. 

When my dearest friend got engaged 

and began to fill a chest with dainty 

bits of lingerie, I longed to buy her a 

convent- worked chemise. I looked at 

them in several shops, and decided that 

they were far beyond my purse. So 

I bought two yards of nainsook at 

twenty-five cents a yard and four 

skeins of No. 50 embroidery cotton. I 

cut out the chemise by one of my own, 

sewed the seams by hand with the 

tiniest possible stitches, marked the 

neck and armholes with spool scallops, 

buttonholed, and cut them out. Then 

I worked a row of eyelets for ribbon 

one inch below the scallops and one 

and one-half inches apart. Finally, I 

drew her three initials, surrounded by 

a wreath, on the left side just below 

the eyelets, worked them with the 

same cotton, ran in pale pink baby 

ribbon, and there I had my chemise 

complete at a cost of seventy-three 

cents! Ethel Williams. 

* 
* * 

I TAKE the liberty of sending a fa- 
vorite recipe, trusting it will meet 
with your approval. 

If you have never tried it, do so, and 
the delicious result will surprise you. 
It may also be eaten freely without 
fear of unpleasant after-effects, which 
same cannot be said of the ordinary 
plum pudding. 

Sincerely, 

Helen L. Sherwood. 

Carrot Pudding 
One pint of grated carrots, one-half 
cup of sugar, one cup of flour, one-half 
a teaspoonful of cloves, allspice, nut- 
meg (rounded), one teaspoonful of cin- 



namon, one-half a pound of raisins, 
one-half a pound of currants, one-half 
a cup of melted butter. Mix carrots, 
sugar, and butter. Add flour, spice, 
and fruit. Put in buttered mould, and 
let boil four hours. Dry in oven twenty 
minutes. Serve hot with liquid or 
hard sauce. Wine or lemon flavored 
preferred. No eggs, no wetting. 

* 
* * 

Giblet Canapes 

USE giblets from chicken intended 
for dinner. Boil until tender with 
three slices from an ordinary-sized 
onion, and salt to season. When cold, 
mash to pulp or run through a nut- 
grinder. Mash or grind one dozen Eng- 
lish walnuts or one-half cup of shelled 
peanuts. Mix thoroughly with ground 
giblets, adding lemon juice to taste. 
Spread on toasted bread. These make 
delicate sandwiches for company, late 
lunches, card parties, etc. 

May E. Morrow. 

*** 

My dear Mrs. Hill, — If it is not too 
late in the season, your readers may 
be interested to know of two variations 
in the art of jelly-making, such as they 
may not find in their cook-books. Also, 
I enclose a recipe for baked apples. 

Currant Jelly 
Follow any good rule for making 
currant jelly by first cooking* the cur- 
rants, putting through bag, boiling, 
adding sugar, and boiling to the jelly- 
point. But, after making the jelly 
from the juice which has dripped 
through the bag, take what remains 
in bag, put back in the preserving 
kettle, and nearly cover with water. 
Cook ten or fifteen minutes, then press 
through jelly bag, and proceed to 
make jelly as usual. One will find 
one has nearly double the amount of 
jelly from a given amount of currants. 
Moreover, it is almost impossible to 



Home Ideas and Economies 



53 



tell the difference between the best 
"dripped" jelly and the second best. 

Spiced Crab-Apple Jelly 
As crab-apple jelly may be consid- 
ered somewhat insipid, a delightful 
and simple variation comes from mak- 
ing a part of the apples into spiced 
jelly. After the apples have been 
boiled down, put through strainer and 
jelly-bag, and are back in the kettle 
for final boiling, add vinegar to taste, 
and a small handful of cloves and 
stick cinnamon tied in a piece of mus- 
lin or cheese-cloth. Boil twenty min- 
utes, and add an equal quantity of 
heated sugar, boil five minutes, skim, 
and turn in glasses. This makes a 
delicious jelly to serve with meats. 

Apples Baked in a Bean Pot 

Pare and quarter apples enough to 

fill a Boston bean-pot. Add a cup 

of brown sugar and a cup of water. 

Cook, with cover on, in a slowov en four 

or five hours. Apples of a deep red 

color and a most delicious flavor will 

result. Serve either as a relish or 

as a sweet with cream. F. G. p. 

* 
* * 

CASHEW nut candy is one of the 
newest confections. It is one of 
the autumn novelties at a Philadelphia 
store devoted to delicacies and the best 
of standard foods. Cashew nuts grow 
at the end of a strange tropical fruit. 
These, preserved in a glass jar, are 
shown in the window, attracting many 
by their oddity. 

The nuts are separated from the 
fruits by a hard and far from agreeable 
process of roasting. When finally ready 
for use, the nuts look like Brazil nuts, 
and are silvered in clear, amber-colored 
candy. This has very much the flavor 
of other nut candies. 

We have had queens on thrones, and 
queens in our kitchens answering to the 
simple names of Mary and Elizabeth. 



Now these cognomens are applied to a 
new and expensive bonbon and choc- 
olate. The five-dollar boxes have 
dainty trays, like tiny trunks, which are 
to be lifted out by white ribbon loops. 
Upon the cover is a miniature of a 
pretty woman and the signature ' ' Mary 
Elizabeth," but it is not the fair and 
witching Mary Stuart, nor her red- 
haired rival, the death-dealing Eliz- 
abeth of English history. 

Many a woman has found that wax 
flowers and macrame work and em- 
broidery will not keep the wolf tied up in 
the back yard. While many women are 
supplying staple foods, bread, etc., and 
opening tea-rooms and luncheon places, 
others are making those unneeded but 
imperatively demanded luxuries, candy 
and pickles. One of the greatest candy 
firms in this country had its origin in 
the home-made candy a young widow 
made and started her little boys out to 
sell. Her sons' stores are established 
now in many cities, and thronged by 
fashionable patrons, who wish confec- 
tionery at high prices, instead of the 
home-made taffy and molasses candy 
made at the beginning some years ago. 

No young girl is supposed to exist 
that does not feel that candy is essential 
to her very life. And, while many care 
more for athletics and less for novels 
and fancy work than did their mothers, 
the taste for sweets is unchanging. 
Even studious college girls are devoted 
to fudge. Who can tell what will oust 
this favorite of several years from the 
place of honor ? 

Julia Davis Chandler. 

* * 

Dear Madam, — In reference to Query 
No. 1074, f° r spiced trout, in the No- 
vember issue of your magazine, I would 
like to send a recipe which I have found 
superior to all others I have tried. I 
do not know whether it is permissible 
to send in a recipe. If not, it will help 
fill the waste-basket. 



254 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Spiced Trout 
One cup of vinegar, one cup of water, 
one tablespoonful of sugar, one-half 
a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pa- 
prika, one piece of bay leaf, one whole 
clove, six whole black peppers, one 
lemon, peeled and sliced thin, two 
slices of onion. Cook fish whole in 
this mixture (about thirty minutes for 
small fish). When cooked, turn fish 
into dish, either whole or broken in 
pieces, pour over liquid, and let stand 
several hours. J. w. G. 

*** 

Cost of Living in France 

Dear Food Offset by Small Economies 
The Economiste Frangais of Paris says 
that the cost of living abroad, especially 
in France, is a subject upon which wide 
variance of opinion exists. There is no 
doubt that the English, on the average, 
have one-third more to spend than the 
French, and, all things being equal, 
more money is earned in England than 
in France. Further, the cost of life in 
England is far less than in France. The 
contrary was true in former days, but 
now the high tariff in France and free 
trade in England have produced their 
results. 

Butter in France costs 30 to 60 cents 
per pound, Swiss cheese 25 to 30 cents 
per pound, and fowls 30 to 50 cents 
each. Milk is 10 cents per quart, bread 
4 cents per pound, and meat 30 to 50 
cents per pound. Fruits, which are 
grown abundantly in France, cost twice 
as much as they do in England. Ba- 
nanas and oranges, which Algiers ex- 
ports by millions, cost 4 cents each. 
Coffee is 50 to 60 cents per pound, tea 
as much as $1.40 to $1.80 per pound, 
and sugar 10 to 12 cents per pound. 
Coal in Paris is worth $14 per ton, and in 
many houses heat is a great rarity. In 
London two boxes of matches are given 
for 1 cent, but in France each box costs 
2 cents, and the matches are bad. Drugs 
are almost prohibitively expensive. 



M. De Foville presents the balance 
sheet of four average families. The 
first family, with an income of $2,000 
per year, represents a Parisian house- 
hold, — father, mother, two children 
attending school, and a servant. The 
second family, with an income of $1,600, 
represents a provincial household, con- 
sisting of a father, mother, two children, 
and servant. The third family, with an 
income of $800, is a Parisian household, 
consisting of father, mother, a small 
child, and no servant; and the last is 
that of a workman's family at Rheims, 
consisting of father, mother, two chil- 
dren, five and ten years of age, the 
family disposing of a purse of $415 per 
year. The first family expends $1,744 
of its income for actual living expenses, 
and has a balance of $526 for pleasures, 
doctors, and so forth. The second 
family expends $1,250, and has $350 
left; the third, $667, and has a balance 
of $133; and the fourth, $320, with a 
balance of $95. In the case of the third 
family the food consists of coffee, bread, 
and butter for breakfast. At mid-day, 
meat, vegetables, and dessert. At four 
o'clock the mother and child have 
chocolate and bread, and at six o'clock 
there is a dinner of soup, vegetables, 
and dessert. 

M. De Foville says that it "lies in the 
innate inclination, one might say the 
passion, for economy. With a few 
francs the little Parisian, who may be 
hungry many days during the year, is 
able to make herself a hat and frock 
which many wealthy women might 
well envy. And it is with the table 
as it is with the toilet. The art of 
utilizing the remnants is an art es- 
sentially French, whether the subject 
be ribbons or ragouts. The spirit of 
economy is as common in our country 
as it is rare in England. Fathers and 
mothers in France consider themselves 
the debtors of their children, and even 
the bachelors think they should leave 
something behind." N. E. GrovEr. 



t— t^tuX^fc— t^Ji 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to menus 
and recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be 
cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answer by mail, please enclose postage stamp; for menus, $i. Address queries to Janet M. Hill, 
Editor Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 1075. — K. A. C, New York City: "Re- 
cipe for small, baking-powder biscuit and the 
method employed to have the biscuit come 
out of even size, regular, and attractive in 
shape." 

Baking-powder Biscuit 

Pass together through a sieve, three 
or four times, two cups of sifted flour, 
one teaspoonful of salt, and four level 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. With 
a knife or the tips of the fingers work 
in three or four level tablespoonfuls 
of shortening, then add about one cup 
of milk or water, or half a cup of each, 
a little in a place, and mix with a knife 
to a dough. Take out the dough onto 
a board lightly dredged with flour, 
turn with a knife until it is lightly 
floured, then knead slightly, and roll 
into a sheet a generous half-inch in 
thickness. Cut out with a round cutter, 
each time making a clean cut. Set 
the rounds in a shallow pan rubbed over 
with fat, so that they may just touch 
each other and completely fill the pan. 
Bake about fifteen minutes. To se- 
cure a nicely browned exterior, brush 
over the top of the biscuits with melted 
butter before setting them into the oven. 
For a soft, glossy crust, when nearly 
baked, brush over with starch, made 
by boiling two teaspoonfuls of corn- 
starch, mixed with a little cold water, in 
a cup of boiling water. Apply the 
starch two or three times, returning the 
biscuit each time to the oven for two 
or three minutes. 



Query 1076. — Mrs. G., Portland, Me.: 
"What diet would be suitable for an adult 
troubled with a skin eruption, possibly ec- 
zema?" 

Diet for Eczema 

Thompson in "Practical Dietetics" 
says, in brief, eczema in a great number 
of instances is occasioned by one of three 
causes; namely, the eating of (1) too 
much food, (2) insufficient food, (3) 
improper food. In overeating the 
skin is called upon to eliminate waste 
products which are accumulated in the 
blood faster than they can be gotten 
rid of. Thus the glands of the skin 
are constantly overworked, and after a 
long time of irritation show the effects 
in an eruption. In this class of cases 
the remedy would be to reduce the 
quantity of food, which should be re- 
stricted to very simple articles. In 
bad cases of eczema it is recommended 
that the diet be restricted to bread and 
milk. From two to two and a half 
quarts of milk, with toast or crackers, 
may be taken daily. For less pro- 
nounced cases, relief may be secured by 
cutting off meat, pastry, and sweet 
dishes, for a time. In all cases where 
overeating or improper food is the 
occasion of the disease, meats and 
sweets are the objectionable articles. 
Meat should not be indulged in more 
than once a day, and it were well to 
take fish (not shell fish, salmon, or 
mackerel) on alternate days. Of ce- 
real preparations, wheat or barley 



256 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



is preferable to oatmeal, and light green 
vegetables, especially string beans, 
spinach, lettuce, and green peas, are 
preferable to potatoes (especially sweet 
potatoes), dried beans, squash, and the 
heavier vegetables. Tea and coffee 
are harmful, unless taken with great 
moderation. One troubled with eczema 
should avoid any food that will dis- 
order or retard the process of diges- 
tion, and of course the articles to be 
refused will vary with the individual. 
In general, highly seasoned meats, 
soups, and sauces, preserves, hot breads 
of all kinds, fried foods, pastry, cake, 
cheese, apples, and bananas (uncooked), 
cabbage, and corned beef are not per- 
missible. 

Query 1077. — Mrs. , Attleboro, Mass. : 

"Recipes for coffee charlotte russe, chicken 
soufne, chicken, Creole style, and apricots with 
crusts and almonds." 

Coffee Charlotte Russe 
vSoften an ounce (scant measure) of 
gelatine in half a cup of clear, black 
coffee. Scald three-fourths a cup of 
milk over hot water with a half -cup of 
sugar. Beat the yolks of two eggs, 
gradually add one-fourth a cup of sugar 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt. 
Cook the egg and sugar in the hot milk 
until the mixture coats the spoon, stir- 
ring constantly meanwhile, then add 
the gelatine, softened in the coffee. 
Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then 
set the dish into a vessel of ice and water, 
and stir constantly until the mixture 
begins to thicken, then "cut and fold" 
into it three cups of cream, beaten 
thick. A cup and a half, each, of 
double cream and "top milk" is sat- 
isfactory. When the mixture is stiff 
enough to hold its shape, turn it into 
moulds lined with lady-fingers. 

Chicken Souffle 
Melt two level tablespoonfuls of but- 
ter. Cook in it two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a 



dash of paprika, then add one pint of 
milk or white stock or half of each. 
Stir and cook until smooth, and the 
boiling-point is reached, then stir in 
half a cup of fine, soft bread crumbs, 
the beaten yolks of three eggs, one pint 
of fine-chopped chicken, half a teaspoon- 
ful of onion* juice, a teaspoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, and a dash of celery 
salt or pepper, then "cut and fold" in 
the whites of three eggs, beaten stiff. 
Turn into a buttered dish, and bake 
surrounded by hot water until firm in 
the centre. Serve from the baking- 
dish, and with Bechamel, tomato or 
mushroom sauce. This may be cooked 
in the chafing-dish. Prepare the mixt- 
ure in the blazer; fold in the whites of 
eggs, and set the blazer into the hot- 
water pan, cover, and let cook about 
twenty minutes, during which time 
the sauce may be made in a second 
blazer, and set over the bath until the 
souffle is ready to serve. 

Chicken, Creole Style 
Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter. 
Cook in it one tablespoonful of chopped 
onion and two of chopped, green pepper. 
When these are softened and yellow, 
stir in three tablespoonfuls of flour and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. When the 
flour is absorbed, add one cup of chicken 
broth and half a cup of tomato pulp, stir 
until boiling, then add a teaspoonful of 
grated horseradish, a teaspoonful of 
lemon juice, and one cup arfd a half of 
cooked chicken, cut in half -inch pieces. 
Serve when thoroughly hot. Plain 
boiled rice or toasted bread may be 
served with this dish. 

Apricots with Crusts and Almonds 
Drain the apricots from a can, and 
reserve the syrup and half the apricots, 
selecting the choicest halves. Press the 
remainder of the apricots through a 
sieve. Add half a cup of sugar, and let 
simmer on the back of the range until 
reduced to the consistency of marma- 



Queries and Answers 



257 



lade. Then add a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice, and set aside. Have rounds 
cut from stale bread. Saute* them in 
olive oil or butter, or toast them over 
the coals. Have ready about two 
dozen almonds, blanched and chopped. 
Put the syrup on a serving-dish, spread 
the rounds with the marmalade, sprinkle 
with the almonds, and dispose on the 
syrup. Set half an apricot on each 
round, and serve at once. 



Query 1078. — H. J. W., Philadelphia, „Pa.: 
"Suggestions for lunches to be carried to 
school by an active, healthy boy of ten who 
cannot eat sweets, as cakes, candies, and pies." 

School Lunches for Boy of Ten 

(Manufactured Sweets excluded) 

I 

Savory Custard (Chicken Broth, Bits of Chick- 
en, Bits of Cooked Chestnut, Cooked 
Tapioca, and Egg), Cooked in cup. 
Rye Bread and Butter. 
Heart Stalks of Celery. 
An Orange. 

II 

Cold Roast Lamb, Sliced Thin. 
Ripe Olives. 
Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 
A Baked Apple. 

Ill 

Noisette Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 
(Entire- wheat Bread Made with Filberts). 
Dates, Washed, then Dried in Oven. 
A Baked Apple. 

IV 
Two Parker House Rolls, Buttered. 
One-half a Neufchatel Cheese. 
Two Baked Apples. 



Two Eggs Cooked Twenty minutes just below 

212° F. 

Graham Bread and Butter. 

Heart Stalks of Celery. 

An Apple. 

VI 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches. 

Hickory Nut Meats. 

An^Orange 



VII 

Cold Breast of Chicken, Sliced Thin. 

Cole Slaw in Cup. 

White Bread and Butter. 

A Banana. 

VIII 

Rye Bread and Broiled Bacon Sandwiches. 

Sliced Breast of Chicken. 

Prunes Stewed without Sugar. 

IX 

Tomato Jellied, with Bits of Green String 

Beans in Cup. 

French Dressing in Bottle. 

Bread and Butter. 



Two Cold Lamb Chops. 
One Tablespoonful Fruit Jelly. 
Bread and Butter. 
Apple. 

XI 

Sliced Turkey, Saratoga Potatoes. 

Two Baked Apples. 

A Corn-meal Muffin, Buttered. 



Query 1079. — O. E. M.: "Recipe for veal 
pot pie and a custard, rich and velvety, not 
watery." 

Veal Pot Pie 

Wipe a piece of veal from the shoul- 
der, and cut it into pieces for serving. 
Add a half -inch strip of salt pork or 
bacon for each piece of veal. Cover 
with cold water, put over the fire, and 
bring quickly to the boiling-point. 
Then, after boiling five minutes, skim, 
and let simmer until the meat is tender. 
When nearly tender, add salt and 
pepper to season, and, if desired, po- 
tatoes, pared, parboiled five minutes, 
drained, rinsed in cold water, and 
drained again. Have ready a steamer 
of boiling water. On the rack, thor- 
oughly buttered, place some rounds of 
biscuit dough. Let these cook fifteen 
or twenty minutes, covered closely, and 
without allowing the water to stop 
boiling. Serve the dumplings on the 
ends of the platter on which the stew is 
dished. 

Dumplings 

PassTthrough a sieve, together, two or 



258 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



three times, two cups of flour, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and three level 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Mix to 
a dough with about one cup of sweet 
milk. Then pat into a sheet, and cut 
into rounds. 

Rich and Velvety Custard 
Custards are compositions in which 
lightly cooked milk and eggs predomi- 
nate. In custard of the first quality, 
nothing else save sugar, salt, and 
flavoring is added. In preparations of 
inferior quality, starchy material takes 
the place of a part of the egg. Custards 
are of two main characteristics, firm or 
liquid. Firm custards are cooked while 
standing undisturbed in hot water. 
Liquid custards are stirred during the 
entire process of cooking, the dish 
holding the ingredients standing mean- 
while in hot water. In both cases 
the heat Of the water surrounding the 
mixture must be below the boiling- 
point. Custard is properly cooked when 
the egg is "set" by the heat just enough 
to insure a smooth, tender, jelly-like 
consistency throughout. A custard 
that curdles, wheys, or is watery and 
full of holes, has been cooked at too 
high a temperature. A firm custard is 
cooked, when, on touching the centre, it 
seems lightly set and somewhat firm. 
All custards become more solid on cool- 
ing. The degree of firmness depends 
upon the proportions of egg and milk. 
Four eggs to a quart of milk gives a 
firm custard, but one that needs be 
served from the dish in which it is 
cooked. Eight eggs, or preferably four 
whole eggs and eight yolks to a quart of 
milk, give a custard that, when cold, 
may be turned in perfect shape from 
the mould in which it was cooked. A 
firm custard is baked, set on a dozen or 
more folds of paper and surrounded 
with water at the boiling-point, when 
the dish is Set into the oven. The 
water should not boil after the prepara- 
tion is placed in the oven. 



Query 1080. — Madame G. E. L., Montreal, 
Canada: "At what time of the meal should the 
appetizer, "lettuce leaves, Genoese fashion," 
given in the October magazine, be served? 
Would like a few menus for dinner without 
meat, also recipes for egg-nog sauce, parsley- 
sauce, and civet de lievre." 

Time of Serving Lettuce Leaves, 
Genoese Style 

This appetizer is served at the be- 
ginning of the meal and in place of raw 
oysters. 

Dinner Menus without Meat 
The substantial dish of the dinner, if 
the word "meat" is intended to include 
fish, needs be made up from one or 
more of the following articles: cheese, 
dried beans, peas and lentils, nuts, 
macaroni, eggs and milk. Such menus 
were given in the October, 1905, maga- 
zine. A few similar menus follow. If 
these be not what is desired, the sub- 
scriber will kindly write again and more 
explicitly. 

I 
Cream-of-Pea Soup. 
Cauliflower Timbale, Hollandaise Sauce. 
Delicate Indian Pudding. Vanilla Ice-cream. 

II 

Salsify Scalloped with Cheese! 

Lettuce-and-Lima Bean Salad. 

Entire-wheat Bread and Butter. 

Sponge Cake. Canned Fruit with Cream. 

Ill 

Mocked Bisque Soup. Croutons. 

Cheese Souffle. 4 

Apple-and- Celery Salad. 

Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce. 

IV 

Tomato Bouillon (Onion and Sweet Herbs, no 

Broth). 

Nut Croquettes. 

Brussels Sprouts with Cream. 

Mayonnaise of Dates and Oranges. 

Apples Baked with Almonds. Whipped Cream. 

Egg-nog Sauce 

Beat the yolks of three eggs and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of mace, or a 
grating of nutmeg, until light and thick. 



Queries and Answers 



259 



Gradually beat in one-half a cup of 
sugar, and cook over hot water until 
slightly thickened. Then cut and fold 
in the whites of the eggs, beaten dry. 
Cook until the egg is "set." Then re- 
move from the fire. When cold, add 
from one -fourth to one-half a cup of 
brandy and a cup of cream, beaten stiff. 

Parsley Sauce (1) 
Bruise and crush a cup of parsley 
leaves. Then let boil five minutes in a 
cup and one-fourth of water. Strain 
off the water, and let cool. Melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook in it 
two tablespoonfuls of flour and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika. Also a grating of nutmeg, if 
desired. When frothy, stir in the pars- 
ley water. Let boil once, then finish 
with the yolks of two eggs, a table- 
spoonful of fine-chopped parsley, half a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, and one- 
fourth a cup of butter, added in little 
bits and beaten in thoroughly. 

Parsley Sauce (2) 
Put one cup (lightly measured) of 
fine, soft, white bread crumbs and half a 
cup of fine-chopped parsley (lightly 
measured) over the fire in a pint of 
broth. Add a scant half -teaspoonful of 
salt, a dash of pepper, and cook and 
stir until smooth and very hot. Beat 
in two tablespoonfuls of butter and a 
tablespoonful (scant) of lemon juice 
and serve. 

Civet de Lievre (Brown Stew of 
Hare) 

Cut the hare, neatly wiped and dried, 
into pieces, at the joints. Cook these 
in about one-third a cup of butter until 
nicely browned. Pour over them three 
cups of well - flavored - and - seasoned 
brown- stock, and stir until the broth 
boils, to remove any glaze in the pan. 
Then turn the whole into an earthen- 
ware jar or casserole. Put in also an 
onion, into which six cloves have been 



pushed, the thin yellow rind of a lemon, 
and one glass of port wine, also salt and 
pepper, if needed. Cover closely, and 
set the jar in a moderately heated oven. 
Let the contents simmer from three to 
four hours. In the mean time chop the 
liver fine. Mix it with half a cup of 
fine, soft bread crumbs, two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, a teaspoon- 
ful of fine-chopped parsley, a grating of 
lemon rind and a teaspoonful of juice, 
a teaspoonful of powdered sweet herbs, 
and a little salt and pepper. Then stir 
the whole into an egg, well beaten. 
Shape the mixture into small balls. 
Fry them in butter, and add to the 
dish just before serving. Serve currant 
jelly in a dish apart. 



Query 1081 — M. L. H., Redlands, Cal.: 
"What are soup biscuit, soup bags, sweet herbs, 
and hot dates, spoken of in menus and recipes 
published in Boston Cooking-School Magazine? 
Recipes for scalloped sweet potatoes made 
with milk or cream, but no sugar, and German 
potato pancake, to serve with braised beef." 

Soup Biscuit 

Soup biscuit are a small square 
cracker (size about an inch) , sold under 
the above name. They are quite 
brown, and look quite different from' an 
oyster cracker. 

Soup Bags 
Soup bags are sold in boxes-'-holding 
one or two dozen each, at twenty-five 
cents per box. "A bag" is a bit of 
cheese-cloth holding assorted sweet 
herbs and spices, to be dropped into 
a kettle of soup. The herbs are well 
selected, and the flavor they give a 
soup is much finer than can be secured 
by the use of such herbs as a cook may 
have at hand. 

Sweet Herbs 
Sage, marjoram, thyme, summer 
savory, basil, etc., are among the more 
common herbs classed as sweet. There 



i6o 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



are stores that make a specialty of 
dealing in these herbs. Some are home- 
grown and others imported. Such a 
store has been advertised in our col- 
umns. Consult back numbers of the 
magazine. 

Hot Dates 

Pour boiling water over dates, to 
remove germs or extraneous matter. 
Stir with a silver fork, then pick from 
the water on to an agate plate. Set 
the plate in the oven to dry off the 
dates. Such dates are now ready for 
any use. 

Scalloped Sweet Potatoes 
Butter a baking-dish that can be sent 
to the table. Into it cut, in thin slices, 
pared sweet potatoes to fill nearly to 
the top, sprinkling them occasionally 
with salt and pepper and dotting here 
and there with bits of butter. Pour in 
rich milk to fill nearly to the top of the 
potatoes. Cook in the oven about two 
hours, having the dish covered during 
the first part of the cooking. 

German Potato Pancake 
In a hot, well-oiled frying-pan grate 
enough boiled potato, either hot or cold, 
to cover the bottom of the dish to the 
depth of half an inch. Dredge very 
lightly with salt, then pour over a batter 
made of one cup of flour, two level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt, two eggs, and 
about a cup of milk. Use enough of 
the batter to cover well the potato. 
When the pancake is full of bubbles and 
browned beneath, turn and brown the 
other side. 



Query 1082.— L. E. W., Toledo, Ohio: 
"Kindly give explicit directions as to the de- 
tails of a home wedding where the bride is a 
young widow. The service is to be performed 
by an Episcopal clergyman. The house is 
large, Invitations will be extended to fifty 
guests, relatives of the bride and groom and 
of the first husband ," 



Home Wedding 

At a home wedding the mother and 
sisters, or nearest female relatives of 
the bride, receive the guests. The 
father of the bride does not appear 
until he enters the room with his. 
daughter. A room is set apart for the 
use of the clergyman, the bridegroom, 
and the best man. At the appointed 
hour the clergyman comes in, and faces 
the company. He is followed by the 
bridegroom and best man, who take 
their places at the left of the clergy- 
man. Two ushers, at the same time, 
mark off an aisle with white ribbon. 
Generally the aisle runs from the foot 
of the stairway to the place where the 
clergyman is standing. Sometimes chil- 
dren standing beyond the clergyman 
and the bridegroom are given the ends of 
the ribbon to hold. These retire after 
the entrance of the bride. When the 
ushers have formed the aisle, they walk 
to the end of it, turn, and precede 
(walking together) the matron of honor 
(if there be one) up the aisle. She, in 
turn, is followed by the bride and her 
father. Then the ushers roll up the 
ribbons, and the guests come forward. 
At the conclusion of the service the 
clergyman congratulates the bride and 
bridegroom, and retires. The wedded 
pair turn, and, facing the guests, are 
greeted first by their parents, then by 
more distant relatives and friends. 
These details do not vary much, whether 
it be a first or second marriage of the 
bride. Still, a second marriage should 
show much less elaboration than a first 
one. A traveling dress and hat, with 
gloves of appropriate color (not white), 
is usually selected for the wedding outfit. 
A wedding breakfast properly follows 
a wedding at "high noon." A table 
large enough to seat those who form the 
bridal party— bride, groom, clergyman, 
maid (or matron) of honor, best man, 
and father and mother of the bride — 
and small tables at which the other 



ROYAL 

BAKING 
POWDER 



will aid the 
cook as 
no other 
agent will 
% to make 



The dainty cake, 

The white and flaky tea biscuit, 

The sweet and tender hot griddle cake, 

The light and delicate crust, 

The finely flavored waffle and muffin, 

The crisp and delicious doughnut, 

The white, sweet, nutritious bread and roll$ — 

Delightful to the taste and always wholesome, 

Royal Baking Powder is absolutely 
free from lime, alum and ammonia. 



There are many imitation baking powders, 
mostly made from alum and sold cheap. Avoid 
them, as their use is at the cost of health. 



ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., NEW YORK. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



guests are seated is the favorite method 
of serving a breakfast. The menu con- 
sists of bouillon, fish, oysters or lobster 
in some fancy form, a meat entree, as 
chicken timbales, game, or meat in aspic, 
salad, ices, cake, bonbons, and coffee. 
Or for a simpler menu serve bouillon, 
escaloped oysters, rolls, chicken salad, 
olives, ices, cake, and coffee. 

A reception follows a wedding at one 
o'clock or after. Often nothing more 
than cake and ices are served from a 
prettily decorated table. If more is 
supplied, bouillon, creamed or scalloped 
oysters, croquettes of any kind, salads, 
sandwiches, punch, and coffee are 
among the articles usually chosen. No 
attempt is made to seat the guests. 
Several waiters are in attendance to 
remove soiled dishes, keep the table 
looking nice, bring in ices, and assist 
where they can. Gentlemen wait on 
themselves and the ladies in their 
charge. A table is not provided for 
the wedding party at a reception. 
Occasionally a wedding cake, holding 
thimble, ring, and coin, is cut by a bride 
at a reception or breakfast; but, by 
preference, a bit of wedding cake in 
boxes, upon the cover of which is a 
monogram, formed from the initials of 
the bride and groom, is given to each 
guest as they take their leave. Often 
the guests help themselves to these 
favors, the boxes being disposed on a 
table in the hall for this purpose. The 
wedding cake with thimble, etc., is 
always desirable at the dinner or 
luncheon given by a bride to her at- 
tendants a few days before her marriage. 



houses there are two ranges of wrought 
steel, one for coal and one for gas. In 



A Modern Kitchen 
While the modern kitchens are not 
nearly so large as the kitchens of our 
foremothers, they are far and away 
more convenient. Every foot of space 
is utilized. The plumbing is all open, 
with no spot where dust may cling and 
hide. In almost all well-appointed 



Sound Sleep 

Can Easily be Secured 

"Up to two years ago," a woman 
writes, "I was in the habit of using 
both tea and coffee regularly. 

"I found that my health was be- 
ginning to fail, strange nervous attacks 
would come suddenly upon me, making 
me tremble so excessively that I could 
not do my work while they lasted. My 
sleep left me, and I passed long nights 
in restless discomfort. I was filled with 
a nervous dread as to the future. 

1 ' A friend suggested that possibly tea 
and coffee were to blame, and I decided 
to give them up ; and, in casting about 
for a hot table beverage, which I felt 
was an absolute necessity, I was led by 
good fortune to try Postum Food Coffee. 
For more than a year I have used it 
three times a day, and expect, so much 
good has it done me, to continue its 
use during the rest of my life. 

"Soon after beginning the use of 
Postum I found, to my surprise, that, 
instead of tossing on a sleepless bed 
through the long dreary night, I 
dropped into a sound, dreamless sleep 
the moment my head touched the pil- 
low. Then I suddenly realized that all 
my nervousness had left me, and my 
appetite, which had fallen off before, 
had all at once been restored, so that I 
ate my food with a keen relish. 

"All the nervous dread has gone. I 
walk a mile and a half each way to my 
work every day, and enjoy it. I find an 
interest in everything that goes on 
about me that makes life a pleasure. 
All this I owe to leaving off tea and 
coffee and the use of Postum, for I 
have taken no medicine." Name given 
by Postum Company, Battle Creek, 
Mich. 

There's a reason. 

Read the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville," in packages. 



Advertisements 




Joseph Campbell Company, 

44 Penn Street, 

Camden, N.J., U.S.A. 

Little Jack Horner sat in a corner, 

Having the grandest time 
With the finest treat that a boy could eat, 

And it only cost a dime. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



the smaller houses there is only the gas 
range, with a separate heater for the 
water tank. The hood over the range, 
which is used to carry off odors, al- 
though of a comparatively recent fixture 
here, has been in use in many European 
countries for centuries. The walls of 
the modern kitchen are finished with 
tiling or cheaper but equally sanitary 
cement. Indeed, enamelled cement has 
many advantages over the tiling, in 
that the beautiful glaze of tile will 
sometimes crack and fall off, leaving a 
spongy, porous surface. Vitrified brick 
is also handsome and sanitary. The 
floor of the new kitchen is of vitrified 
tile, laid in hydraulic cement. If the 
laundry is in the cellar (and the modern 
architect has a cast-iron rule that no 
washing shall be done in the kitchen), 
the stationary porcelain-lined tubs stand 
on a slightly raised wooden platform, to 
prevent the strain on the feet and ankles 
of the laundress. 

The kitchen sinks are of enamelled 
earthenware, the waste trapped di- 
rectly down to the drain, with all pipes 
nickel-plated and exposed. 

The drip-board, as well as cook's 
table, is of maple. Marble, which has 
sometimes been advocated as the ma- 
terial par excellence for serving and 
cooking tables, is not to be desired. It 
stains readily, dissolves in some of the 
acids, and clogs with all kinds of oils. 
Kansas City Star. 



In cleaning steel knives, a bit of 
pumice stone is better than almost 
anything else that can be used. It 
does not scratch the knives, as do many 
forms of "sand soap," and it is less 
disagreeable to use than brick dust, 
because it will not affect the finger- 
nails of the one using it. 



Passing of Porridge 

Makes Way for the Better Food of a Better Day 
"Porridge is no longer used for 



breakfast in my home," writes a loyal 
Britain from Huntsville, Ont. This 
was an admission of no small signifi- 
cance to one "brought up" on the time- 
honored stand-by. 

"One month ago," she continues, "I 
bought a package of Grape-nuts food 
for my husband, who had been an in- 
valid for over a year. He had passed 
through a severe attack of pneumonia 
and la grippe combined, and was left in 
a very bad condition when they passed 
away. 

"I tried everything for his benefit, 
but nothing seemed to do him any 
good. Month followed month, and he 
still remained as weak as ever. I 
was almost discouraged about him 
when I got the Grape-nuts, but -the 
result has compensated me for my 
anxiety. 

1 ' In the one month that he has eaten 
Grape-nuts he has gained ten pounds 
in weight, his strength is rapidly re- 
turning to him, and he feels like a new 
man. Now we all eat Grape-nuts food, 
and are the better for it. Our little 
five-year-old boy, who used to suffer 
from pains in the stomach after eating 
the old-fashioned porridge, has no more 
trouble since he began to use Grape- 
nuts, and I have no more doctor's bills 
to pay for him. 

"We use Grape-nuts with only sweet 
cream, and find it the most tasty dish 
in our bill of fare. 

"Last Monday I ate four teaspoon- 
fuls of Grape-nuts and cream f<5r break- 
fast, nothing else, then set to work and 
got my morning's work done by nine 
o'clock, and felt less tired, much 
stronger, than if I had made my break- 
fast on meat, potatoes, etc., as I used 
to. I wouldn't be without Grape-nuts 
in the house for any money." Name 
given by Postum Company, Battle 
Creek, Mich. 

There's a reason. 

Read the little book, "The Road to 
Wellville," in packages. 



Advertisements 



Necco 

^SWEETS 

This is the mark that identifies pure confections. 

Not any kind in particular but all our confections 

in general. It is the new method of distinguishing 

all that is pure, wholesome and satisfying in candy. 

If you want sweets that will do you good, that are 

delicate in flavor and absolutely safe, look for the seal 

of Necco Sweets. For example, you will find it on 



,o*(W- oWes 



Most tempting in their variety of delicious flavors — by far 
the most exquisite chocolates you ever tasted. Is this 
protection not a valuable thing for you ? Try a box of 
Lenox Chocolates and learn for yourself the meaning 
of Necco Sweets. For sale by all confectioners 
and druggists. 

NEW ENGLAND CONFECTIONERY CO., Boston, Mass. 



Necco 

OWEETS 



volas 




V 



■■'■^ 



LYVOLA RIPE OLIVES 

A Xew. Dainty, Appetizing, Healthful Food. 

They will please the most jaded palate, and an invalid may eat them freely and with relish. 

They are the ripe fruit from the sun-kissed olive trees of California. They are full of life-giving olive oil, absolutely 
pure, just as it comes from the refinery of nature. But the " olive oil taste " is entirely absent. They are delicious. 

They are beautiful in color, rich in aroma, luscious to taste. They are a perfectly natural food for which the system 

yearns ; you do not have to cultivate a taste for them. 

LYVOLAS are the olives that yield the pure olive oil, the oil that builds up wasted tissue, and makes for 
health and strength. When you eat them you get your full quota of pure olive oil in a food that you can relish. 

The world has known ripe olives since it has known man, but you have never eaten them unless you live where 
olives grow. LYVOLA Ripe Olives are the first successful attempt to give ripe olives to the people outside of the country 
where they grow. They are not the kind of olive with which you are familiar — the green, indigestible olive pickle of 
commerce 5 they are totally different, and infinitely better. 

You cannot buy them of your grocer — the present supply is limited — but you can get them or free descriptive 

booklet from the LYVOLA OLIVE COMPANY, Dept. K Rochester, Xew York. 

Packing- Plant and Orchards, IjOS Angeles, Cal. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiii 



Book Reviews 



A Self- supporting Home. By Kate 
V. Saint Maur. Cloth. i2mo. $1.50 
net. New York : The Macmillan Com- 
pany. 

"A self-supporting country-home for 
persons whose income depends on 
personal effort within the heart of a 
great city will seem Utopian, unless 
I relate my personal experiences as to 
its practical value, which commenced 
ten years ago. Up to that time I had 
been a city woman, striving, like hun- 
dreds of others, to maintain appear- 
ances on a housekeeping allowance 
which needed coaxing over every little 
bump of hospitality, to induce the 
two ends to meet. Through all the 
petty warfare of bad times, one desire, 
one hope, was paramount, — a country 
home where plenty should make vis- 
itors an unalloyed pleasure. Chance, 
fate, Providence, or whatever name is 
preferred for the Power which shapes 
our ends, led me to the Pet Stock and 
Poultry Show; and there it suddenly 
occurred to me that, instead of wait- 
ing for the acquisition of fortune to 
realize the desire, the desire might 
be made to help acquire some of the 
fortune. It was such a comfortable, 
invigorating inspiration that enthused 
away all the obstacles suggested by a 
cautious husband; and his consent 
was won on condition that current ex- 
penses were not increased, or capital 
risked." 

Hence follow the experiences of the 
author in leasing and conducting a 
country home, — "a dear old house of 
nine rooms, two cellars, a summer 
kitchen, barn, cow shed, small smoke- 
house, and twelve acres of land, five 
of which were covered with apple- 
trees." The tale is told in twelve 
chapters, one for each month of the 
year. Not every one could look for 
the same degree of success as is herein 
narrated, for not every one would have 



the same degree of patience, perse- 
verance, and enthusiasm as the nar- 
rator of this sketch; but the experi- 
ence of one woman points the way of 
relief and comfort to many a suffer- 
ing household. "The Country House," 
"The Fat of the Land," "A Self-sup- 
porting Home," etc., are books that 
mark the tendency of the time to take 
us back to the soil, to the country, the 
farm, the forest, and all their delights 
and pleasures. 

Pedagogues and Parents. By Ella 

Calista Wilson. Cloth. 12 mo. 

Price $1.25. New York: Henry 

Holt & Co. 

Every teacher and parent should 
read this book. It was written by a 
parent. Treatises on education are 
written mostly by pedagogues and 
bachelors. This homely treatise is a 
thoughtful, original, and often humor- 
ous criticism of modern methods in 
education; and it must be read to be 
appreciated. 

The author quotes from the Harvard 
Graduates' Magazine: "The subject of 
education forces itself on us all nowadays, 
whether we will or not, and is likely to 
grow more rather than less insistent. 
For well-nigh a century we Americans 
pointed to our public-school system 



To destroy disease germs and foal erases, the waste-pipes, 
sinks, closets, cellars, and every suspected spot should 
be regularly purified with 




C lMorides 

TH& Odorless 
Disinfectant* 

Sold in quart bottles enly, by druggists and high-class grocers. 
An illustrated booklet with valuable sanitary hints mailed free. 
( Address HENRY B. PLATT, 42 Cliff Street, New York 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xiv 



Advertisements 



************************ 



'CHILDREN], 



ITEETHINc 



THE BEST OF ALL AND 

For over sixty years Mrs. Winslow's 
Soothing Syrup has been used by mothers 
for their children while teething. Are you 
disturbed at night and broken of your rest 
by a sick child suffering and crying with 
pain of Cutting Teeth ? If so, send at once 
and get a bottle of 4l Mrs. Winslow's Sooth- 
ing Syrup" for Children Teething. Its 
value is incalculable. It will relieve the 
poor little sufferer immediately. Depend 
upon it, mothers, there is no mistake 
about it. It cures diarrhoea, regulates the 
Stomach and Bowels, cures Wind Colic, 
softens the Gums, reduces Inflammation, 
and gives tone and energy to the whole 
system. " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup " 
for children teething is pleasant to the taste 
and is the prescription of one of the oldest 
and best female physicians and nurses in 
the United States, and is for sale by all 
druggists throughout the world. Price, 
twenty-five cents a bottle. Be sure and ask 
for " Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup. *' 

WWW *#W#W»»»f# WSWl 



At Christmas 
Time 



The Housekeeper's 

interest centers on her din- 
ing table, the chief charm 
of which is the Silver. To 
make it do its duty perfect- 
ly, it should be cleaned with 



gLECTRQ 

El Silver Polish r* 

Si L | C oH 



then its latent beauty or brilliancy will ap- 
pear, crowning the effort of the hostess. 

At grocers, druggists, an d postpaid, 1 5 cts. 

(stamps). Tri al quantity for the asking. 

Electro-Silicon Silver Soap for washing and 

polishing Silver has equal me rits. 15 cents. 

"Silicon, "30 Cliff St., New York. 



SYLMAR OLIVE OIL 



DIRECT FROM 
THE RANCH IN 



Sylmar Olive Oil was awarded the 
Grand. Prize (highest award) at the 
St.LouisWorld'sFair in competition 
with all other olive oils. It is the 
natural oil of olives, to which noth- 
ing has been added, nor anything 
taken away. Guaranteed pure. It 
will keep longer than any other oil 
without turning rancid. We own 
the ranch, the trees, and the mill. 
We produce this oil under the most 
favorable conditions from the finest 
ripe olives grown. 

Sylmar Olive Oil retains all the 
rich, fruity flavor of ripe California 
olives, and is most palatable. Syl- 
mar Olive Oil is absolutely the finest 
article of its kind that can be pro- 
duced, and can be purchased with 
the confidence that every bottle will 
stand the most rigid chemical anal- 
ysis and be proven absolutely free 
from adulterants. 



CALIFORNIA 




Natural Oil of Olives Perfected from 

" Blossom to Bottle " on the 
Largest Olive Ranch in the World. 



Send postoffice or express money order 
for $3.00 for three quart-size bottles, and 
we will deliver them to you express pre- 
paid. Give your grocer's or druggist's 
name, and we will offer him the agency. 
We publish a booklet containing 
physicians' directions for medicinal 
uses of olive oil, cooking receipts, 
government recommendations, de- 
scriptions of our process, and direc- 
tions for detecting adulterants in 
Olive oil. We will send this booklet 
and a sample bottle of the oil to 
any address for 10c. postage. 

Two tablespoonf uls of Sylmar 01- 
iveOil contribute more nourishment 
than a pound of meat, because it is 
wholly assimilated without taxing 
the digestive organs. The body is a 
machine which must be lubricated 
in order to run smoothly and be 
vigorous. Eat natural olive oil 
freely and pay the doctor less. 



Los Angeles Olive Growers' Ass'n, 314 Bradbury Bldg., Los Angeles, Gil. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

xv 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



as if it had always been perfect, and 
would always remain so, and required 
no more attention from anybody. 
Only in our own generation has this 
fallacy been exploded." And she re- 
marks: "The passionate love of youth 
for the new knowledge has been a 
large element in the explosion, and 
will have to be a large one in the grad- 
ual reconstruction which is too halt- 
ingly taking place. So, also, has the 
unrest of parents; and that, too, will 
have to be taken account of." 

The author feels, as do many others, 
that we are paying too high a price 
for "uniformity in our schools." In 
the future, educational training must 
be adapted to actual conditions, and 
not to high-faluting theories. More at- 
tention must be paid to deeds and less 
to words. 



The Young Folks' Book of Eti- 
quette. By Caroline S. Griffin. 84 
pp. Price 35 cents. Chicago: A. 
Flanagan Company. 
For young boys and girls this is an 
admirable little handbook. It ought to 
be read by them, and the teachings put 
into daily practice. Then the home 
would be pleasanter and the whole world 
more happy. Young folks cannot begin 
too soon to be polite and well-man- 
nered. The habit is of priceless value. 
"A beautiful behavior gives a higher 
pleasure than statues or pictures: it is 
the finest of the fine arts." 



365 Breads and Biscuits. Cloth. 
i6mo. Price 40 cents net. Phila- 
delphia : George W. Jacobs & Co. 
This is a companion volume of "365 
Breakfast Dishes, Luncheon Dishes, 
Dinner Dishes, etc." The recipes are 
compiled from Mrs. Lincoln, Marion 
Harland, and other reliable authorities. 
They are selected to suit the various 
seasons, and provide a bread or a biscuit 
for every day in the year. Some house- 
keepers might find this a convenient 
manual. 



Common Errors in Speech 

Who does not make errors in every- 
day speech ? As a matter of fact, it is 
very unusual to find any person whose 
use of the English language is abso- 
lutely correct. The following are ex- 
amples of some very frequent errors 
or faulty expressions often heard: — ■ 

"Let you and I go" should be "you 
and me." 

"I am as good as her" should be 
"as she." 

"You are younger than me" should 
be "than I." 

"Come to dinner with John and I" 
should be "John and me." 

"Between you and I" should be 
"you and me." 

"Where are you going? Who? 
Me?" should be "Who? I?" 

"Who do you see?" should be 
"whom." 



IF any dealer 

offers you a substi- 
tute when you ask 
for the 




Sample Pair, Mercerized, 
25c. ; Silk, 50c. Mailed 
on receipt of .price. 



CUSHION 
BUTTON 

HOSE 
SUPPORTER 

Insist on having the genuine 

FOR THE NAME AND THE 
MOULDED RUBBER BUTTON. 

GEORGE FROST CO, Makers, Boston, Mass., U.S.A. 



Over two hundred styles 
Worn all over the world. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvi 



Advertisements 



About the Word "Worcestershire/' 

Over seventy years ago, Lea & Perrins first put on the 

market a table sauce known as 



Lea & Perrins* 

Worcestershire Sauce 

It has since gained a world- 
wide reputation ; therefore, 
many manufacturers have 
used the name Worcestershire, 
and some even called their 
crude imitations the " genuine." But the Original and Genu 
ine is Lea & Perrins' Worcestershire Sauce. Take No Imi- 
tation ! Do Not Be Deceived. 




John Duncan's Sons, Agents, New York. 



RANDOLPHS $5 BOX OF DAINTIES 

FOR CHRISTMAS 

For $5.00 (Money Order or New York Exchange) we 
will send, Expi-ess Prepaid, to any address east of 
Rocky Mountains, the following assortment of our De- 
licious Confections and Sound Fresh Nuts and Fruits: 

I lb. Golden Pecan-Stuffed Dates . . . 30ct$ 

I lb. Golden Marshmallow Dates . . . 35cts 

I lb. Maple-Pecan Pralines .... 75cts 

1 lb. Pure Mint Creams 25cts 

lb. Flesh Salted Almonds .... 75cts 

1-2 lb. Choicest Crystalized Ginger . 35cts 

1 lb. Pimento-Olives or Pim-OIas . 50cts 

1 lb. Duchess Shelled Almonds . 60cts 

2 lbs. Fancy Seeded Raisins . . 40cts 
\ 1 lb. Imperial Cluster Raisins . . 40cts 

lib. Choicest Pecan Meats . . 60cts 
\ 2 lbs . Finest Mixed Nuts . . . 50cts 
I 12 Packages. Usual Retail Price $5.75 
I For ten cents we send anywhere our 
^ Booklet of Correct Ideas and Choice 
Recipes for Entertainers. Sample of 
our luscious Pecan-Stuffed Dates and 
our December Price- List. Write early. 
See " Roll of Honor" of Pure Foods RANDOLPH CONFECTION COMPANY, 

in this month's Good Housekeeping 306 N. Front St., Saint Louis, Mo. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



"The Perfection ol Olive OiP 

RAE'5 

LUCCA 

OIL 



The Very Finest Qual« 
ity of Pure Olive Oil 



S.RAE&C0] 

LEQHOR* " 



FOR SALADS, 
TABLE AND 
MEDICINAL 
PURPOSES 



Sdd in Bottles and Gallon Cans 
by leading Grocers 

& 9 RAE <EL CO., Leghorn, Italy 



USE 



We<M : i4' 



SELFNAISING 
'< BUCKWHEAT - 



DAINTY CAKES 

DELICIOUS 
CAKES 

WHOLESOME 
CAKES 

EASY TO MAKE 



READY FOR 

THE GRIDDLE 

WHEN BATTER 

IS MIXED 



"If I was her" should be "If I were 
she." 

"Was it him?" should be "Was it 
he?" 

"Who was it by?" should be 
"whom." 

These examples of "faulty diction" 
are so common that many people look 
upon the improper form as being the 
correct one; and Thomas H. Russell, 
IX. B., editor-in-chief of Webster's Im- 
perial Dictionary, has done the public 
a great service in having written the 
new book entitled ' ' Faulty Diction, or 
Errors in the Use of the English Lan- 
guage, and how to Correct Them," 
which the publishers have, by printing 
it on thin Bible paper, succeeded in 
getting into what may be called Vest- 
pocket size. 

Illustrating the comprehensive treat- 
ment that has been given the subject 
by the author, there are 1,017 headings 
treated in the book, under some of 
which — "plurals," for instance — over 
fifty errors that are not at all unusual 
are to be found illustrated and cor- 
rected. 

It is rarely one's good fortune to 
become possessed of so valuable a 
book, and especially one so compact 
and of as much general interest. It 
is handsomely bound in embossed 
Russia leather, and will be sent post- 
paid on receipt of 50 cents to any ad- 
dress by George W. Ogilvie & Co., 
Publishers, 169 East Randolph Street, 
Chicago, 111. They also publish the 
same book in cloth bindmg, and will 
send a copy of it in that style on receipt 
of 25 cents. 

A Recipe Card Index 
Every housekeeper has her own col- 
lection of precious recipes, handed 
down in the family, obtained from 
friends, or clipped from newspapers 
and magazines. 

Ordinarily, these are jotted down hap- 
hazard, on the fly-leaves of the house- 
hold cook-book or on scraps of paper, 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xviii 



Advertisements 



The 

Essentials of 
Good Mince Meat 



M&m$ 



Varieties 



If you — if every housewife — could visit the 
Heinz Kitchens and personally follow each of the 
simple, homelike, cleanly details of preparing Heinz 
Mince Meat, there would be no room to question 
why it is the mince meat you ought to buy ; why 
it possesses the tempting flavor of the old=fashioned 
kind ; why it satisfies the taste of all. 

And your visit would surely convince you of 
this : In Heinz Mince Meat you get all the qualities 
of cleanliness and goodness of the finest home=made 
product, plus the immeasurable advantages of Heinz 
experience, Heinz system and Heinz equipment. 

Too much cannot be said of the care, of the pre- 
cision, exercised in selecting the ingredients for 



WEIN2 

Mince Meat 



The finest meat for the purpose ; fresh, white 
suet ; faultless apples ; Valencia raisins carefully 
seeded, and so rich in flavor as to be a veritable 
confection ; Grecian currants whose purity is insured 
by an individual cleansing process; choice citron 
and candied fruits — in these, and in the Heinz Way 
of preparing and blending, lies the incomparable 
goodness of Heinz Mince Meat. 

Your grocer sells it in glass and stone jars of 
convenient sizes. Get a jar ; if it doesn't meet your 
highest ideal, the grocer will give your money back. 

Let us interest you further in the famous "57" 
by sending you a copy of "The Spice of Life." 

H. J. HEINZ CO., Pittsburgh, U. S. A. 



When^you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A RECIPE 
CARD 
INDEX 

A USEFUL 
XMAS 
GIFT 



The old style cook book 
gives way to the modern 
Card Index Recipe Box, 
each recipe on a separate 
card and classified under heading cards, so that any recipe under 
any heading can be instantly found. IT The housewife's most valued 
recipes — those given her by friends and clipped from periodicals 
— instead of being scattered and mislaid, are kept together in 
perfect order. IT The Index can grow to any size. Simply put 
any new recipe on card and add in proper place. IF When pre- 
paring a dish the card is taken from box and placed before 
cook on cooking table. H The recipes can be written, typewritten, 
cut out of newspaper or book, and pasted on. In any case, it is 
just as easy to find them. IT Outfit consists of a box handsomely 
bound in beautiful imitation of leather, red or black, containing 
ioo cards for recipes and 10 guides. From your stationer or sent 
prepaid to any address for $1.50. If An inspiration for any woman 
interested in her kitchen . H Invaluable for cooking-schools. 
LIBRARY BUREAU, 537 Atlantic Ave., Boston, Mass. 



Silver Should be Cleaned 



at least once a week. It is 
put off too often and too long 
because it is such a disagree- 
able job. Think how bright 
your silver would be if it could 
be cleaned every day or so, 
instantly, without any rubbing, 
without any damage to the 
silver. 

SILVEREASE 

does that very thing. It is a powder. A spoonful of it 
dissolved in a pan of hot water does the entire work. 
Simply put the silver into the preparation for a minute or 
two, wipe it off with a towel, and it is as bright as when 
new. 

If your druggist or grocer doesn't keep SILVEREASE, 
send 25 cents to us and his name, and we will send you a 
package. Or send two cent stamp for a small sample. 

If SILVEREASE doesn't do what we say the first 
time without any trouble, throw it away and write us, and 
we will send back the 25 cents, or tell the grocer to give 
it to you. 




SILVEREASE COMPANY 

1131 Broadway New York 



and scattered in a dozen places, to be 
mislaid or lost. 

The Library Bureau has devised a 
cooking index that brings all these valued 
recipes into one orderly place, where 
any one can be found in a moment. 
A printed and ruled card is filled out 
with materials, weight or measure, 
and directions. If the recipe is clipped 
from a paper, it is pasted on the card, 
and heading is written in. The index 
is supplied with guides for the 
various classifications of food; and 
the card, filed alphabetically behind 
the proper guide, is always at the 
fingers' ends when wanted. 

The index can grow to any size by 
simply putting each new recipe on 
a card and adding in proper place. 

When preparing a dish, the card is 
taken from box and placed before the 
cook on cooking- table. 

The index is a great convenience 
for suggestions, since often a house- 
keeper hardly knows what she wants 
to make. By taking all the cards 
from a group and glancing through 
them, the one that appeals is invit- 
ingly before her. 



From " Socialism and Christianity " 

If the social question of the hour is 
to a certain extent the question of al- 
coholism, the most effective temperance 
reform must begin, not with the sa- 
loon, but with the kitchen and the 
table. Not those temperance women 
who agitate on the public platform, but 
women who stay at home and know 
how to cook dinners and feed men well 
and make homes bright and restful, — 
such women are our first and most 
valiant temperance reformers. The 
shining cups and saucers on the snowy 
linen, with the sparkling glass of pure 
water, the sweet-smelling bread, the 
fresh butter, the fragrant tea, — how in- 
viting in the poorest cabin to the poor 
workingman, who will not envy his rich 
employer dining until midnight at Del- 
monico's ! 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xx 



Advertisements 




Others make some claims that cannot be substantiated j 
but the FACTS ARE that the 



is the only 



HUB 
RANGE 




used and 



L 



endorsed by the Boston, Providence, New York, and other leading 
COOKING-SCHOOLS. 
HUB Ranges, Parlor Stoves, Steam Heaters, Hot Water Heaters, and 
Furnaces are sold by leading dealers, and are 

(^MANUFACTURED AND WARRANTED BY 
SMITH <& ANTHONY COMPANY, 52-54 Union Street, Boston 

Send for descriptive and illustrated circulars E. 



J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cookino-School Magazine. 

xxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Beech-Nut 
Trade Mark 

as it appears on this jar. 

All of the Beech-Nut prod- 
ucts have a flavor and an excel- 
lence peculiarly their own. They 
are put up in glass, and there is no 
danger of ptomaines as from tin. 
They are hermetically sealed, so 
that preservatives need not be 
used. They are not only the 
best to eat, but they are the 
purest food products made. 

Be sure that the Beech-Nut 
trade-mark is on the glass jar 
when you buy them. 

Beech-Nut booklet, edited by Janet 
McKenzie Hill, illustrated in colors, 
shows nine ways of cooking bacon, 
six ways of cooking beef, together with 
some illustrations of Conserves. This 
booklet will be mailed upon receipt of 
2c. stamp. 

All good grocers, butchers and pro- 
vision men sell Beech-Nut products. 
If you cannot get them, we will send 
twenty-four assorted jars, express pre- 
paid east of Chicago and north of Rich- 
mond, $4.00 ; other points east of the 
Mississippi, $4.50 ; west of the Missis- 
sippi, $5.00. Only one order to a person. 

Beech-Nut Packing Co. 

Canajoharie, N. Y. 



<H 



The House Restful 
Our houses, like our lives, are over- 
crowded : it is the tendency of the times ; 
and, although many a voice is raised in 
praise of the simple Japanese interiors, 
where one vase decorates a room, there 
are few who follow this excellent exam- 
ple. It is depressing to think of the 
money spent on unnecessary furniture 
and bric-a-brac, and of the weary hours 
spent in cleaning and caring for them. 
Perhaps it might be worth while if the 
result were beautiful, which it certainly 
is not. There is nothing artistic in a 
crowded room. As a rule, there is no 
discretion in the massing, and the most 
incongruous articles are placed side by 
side. A really exquisite vase, picture, 
or carving, loses its value when it is 
surrounded too closely by other orna- 
ments, and the whole effect is blurred 
and confused. The ideal room has 
spaces to rest the eye, everything is 
beautiful in itself, and each article is 
chosen with due regard to the room as 
a whole. An ornament that is hand- 
some in the store may prove to be a 
jarring note in your house. And, when 
I say "beautiful," I do not mean expen- 
sive. Indeed, some of the most hideous 
things I have ever seen have been costly, 
and some of the prettiest have been 
bought for a few cents. 

Aside from these considerations, a 
crowded room is not wholesome. Dust 
collects in all the cracks and corners, 
and even the tidiest housekeeper can- 
not dislodge every particle every day. 
This ought to be especially ta^en to 
heart in our bedrooms. Whatever ob- 
tains downstairs, our sleeping-rooms 
should be as free of dust-catchers as 
possible. 

At this point I can hear some one 
exclaim: "That's all very well, if one 
is just beginning, and can arrange 
things according to an ideal plan; but 
how about me? I have kept house 
for twenty years, and naturally every 
room is full to overflowing." Under 



^ When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxii 



Advertisements 




No basting — no waste — 

and nothing to watch 

but the clock! 

Do you realize what this means to you ? 

It means that no matter what you roast — meat or fowl — all you need do is put in the 
roast, with a little water in the bottom of the pan, and take it out when done — crisp, juicy, 
and roasted to a turn. 

The reason why this Roaster roasts so much better, and bastes itself, is that all 
the steam which arises and bastes the bottom of the roast, is made to drop doivn again on 
the top of the roast, because of the special construction of the top. (See picture) . 

But that is not all. 

The ordinary Roasting Pan not only requires a lot of basting and watching, but it also 
wastes a lot of the roast itself, as most women know from experience. Actual test shows 
that a 1 pound piece of roast beef will only weigh 8 pounds, or less, when roasted in the 
ordinary pan — a clear loss of 2 pounds, or one-fifth of the weight ; at this rate you do not 
need to have " roasts" 'very often before this waste amounts to $3 or $4 a month ! 

This big item of waste, as well as the necessity of basting and watching, are all entirely 
eliminated in the LISK SELF-BASTING ROASTER. 

It takes up no more room, and it can be used on the top of the stove as 'well as in 
the oven. 

Like all the other celebrated LISK Kitchen Utensils, it is made of Imperial Gray Enamel 
Steel and absolutely sanitary because seamless. Sold upon a W year unconditional 
guarantee* Three sizes — small, medium and large. 

SPECIAL OFFER 

ASK YOUR DEALER FOR THE LISK SELF-BASTING 
ROASTER — IF HE CANNOT SUPPLY YOU SEND US $3.00 
and we will send you a medium size Roaster (by express prepaid), 
with the privilege of 'returning it, if, at the end of thirty days you are not 
absolutely convinced of its merits. If your family likes " roasts" as much as 
most families do, the Roaster will pay for itself inside of the thirty days 
you are trying it. Descriptive Booklet F, sent free. 

LISK MANUFACTURING CO., Canandaigua, N.Y. 





Whenlyoulwrite'advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magaztne. 

xxiii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Peter Cooper's 

CLARIFIED 

GELATINE 

For Wine Jellies 
Blanc-mange 
Charlotte Russe 

PURE AND WHOLESOME 

Our Pulverized Gelatine is the 
most convenient for family use. 
Dissolves in a few minutes. 

An 8-cent package 
makes two quarts. 
Cheapest and best. 

For sale by all grocers. 

S. S. PIERCE COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 

(^Manufacturers' cAsents. 



Ice-cream 
always 

in 
Season 

Junket 
Tablets 

make 
the Best 

We mail postpaid ten tablets to make ten 
quarts for ten cents, and give you the charm- 
ing brochure, " Junket Dainties," free. 

Chr. Hansen's Laboratory 
Box 2507. Little Falls, N.Y. 



these circumstances the change is 
difficult, but not impossible. Of course, 
many of one's household gods are en- 
deared to one by associations; but I 
should weed out such as are neither 
beautiful nor beloved, and give them 
to some one who really needs them. 
It will be a pleasure to think they are 
helping some one else instead of hin- 
dering you. After this there would 
still be an overabundance, so I should 
put in the storeroom all that was not 
necessary, and then at the end of a 
few months I should shift things, and 
have my house refurnished, so to speak. 
This is not impossible, for I know two 
people who do it regularly. Until one 
tries, she cannot realize how much more 
she appreciates a favorite picture or a 
cherished bit of pottery after it has 
been in seclusion for a time. It is 
like having a lovely new present, to 
see it again. 

Our eyes need breathing spaces as 
well as our lungs, and a very good rule 
to follow is this: If you suspect that 
your room is overfull, try removing a 
lamp, a cushion, or a photograph. If, 
at the end of a week, you no longer 
notice its absence, you are safe in not 
replacing it. 



A pretty and agreeable young woman, 
who lived in a country village, suddenly 
announced that she was going to take 
up teaching. "You — you a school- 
teacher?" exclaimed the recipient of 
her confidence. "Why,* I'd rather 
marry a widower with nine children!" 
"So would I," the young woman re- 
plied frankly. "But where is the 
widower?" 



To clean decanters and other narrow- 
necked bottles put in half a cup of 
vinegar, then half as much tea leaves. 
Shake until clear, empty, put in warm 
soap suds, and shake again. Then 
rinse thoroughly. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-Schooi, Maqazine. 

xxiv 



Advertisements 




Ufye tSingle 
Damper 




is our PATENT. It makes the reg- 
ulating of fire and oven simple 
and SURE and BETTER, than two 
dampers could do it. Only 

j frawfbrd 

^^^ (ooking-Ranges 

Have this Single Damper. It is worth the price of 
a range. It saves fuel and insures better baKing. 
Slide the knob to "Kindle," "bake," or"check." 
(One motion does it.) 

People are beginning to appreciate the 
fact that Cra%fords ha*be more im- 
provements than all other ranges 
combined. 

No Other Range 

has These Features: 

1. Single Damper. This is patented. 
It is worth the price of the range. It makes 
baking quicker, better, surer. It saves fuel. 

2. Ctip • joint Oven Flues. 

They don't leak. They utilize all 
1»^ °* tne neat - They insure better 
iS^S baking. 

Improved Dock - ash 
Grate. This \s patented. It means a 
better, steadier fire, — one that will keep 
over night. It means a saving in fuel. 
Reliable Oven Indi- 
cator* Readable. Entirely outside 
of the oven, consequently not affected 
by grease, smoke, or dust. 
5* The Perfected Oven. 
Extra large, with asbestos-lined heat- 
saving back and five heights for racks. 
The quickest, surest baker and most 
perfectly controllable oven ever con- 

structed. 

The Range here shown is our new 
"EMPIRE ROYAL CRAW- 
FORD" a "hit" with those who 
love plain elegance and those who 
appreciate the ease with which such 
a Range can be kept clean and 

bright. _^_____ 

Send for Illustrated Catalogue 

Cra<wfords have more Improvements than all other ranges combined 

WALKER & PRATT MFG. CO., 31-35 Union Street, BOSTON 

Proprietors of the Finest Stove Foundry in the World 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXV 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



We Drink 

OLD GRIST MILL 

WHEAT COFFEE 

Because it -tastes ^ood 

and it 

Makes us Strong. 

Why don't you try it? 





UNDERWOOD'S 

ORIGINAL 

DEVILED HAM 



In camp, picnic, or home, it will be found not 
only pure, but delicious and satisfying. Made only 
of pure spices and sugar-cured ham. There is but 
one deviled ham — Underwood's Red Devil Brand. 
All others are imitations, but imitations in name 
only, no more like Underwood's than chalk is like 
cheese. Send for book of 43 prize receipts. 

WM. UNDERWOOD CO., BOSTON, MASS 



Brownsville Water Crackers 

The Cracker that has "Brownsville" on it 

I started to head this "A Cracker 
for Epicures," but that might lead you 
to think that it is a rich and unhealthy 
cracker, and not fitted for the simple 
supper of a child. Brownsville Water 
Crackers are so pure and wholesome 
that they are ideal for the little one's 
bowl of milk and crackers. They are 
so crisp and appetizing that the most 
discriminating good liver will find that 
they add just the right touch to his 
oysters, soup, cheese, or salad. 

What is there about this Browns- 
ville Water Cracker that makes it so 
good as all this? Why simply this: 
The Brownsville Water Cracker has 
been made in the same way for fifty- 
five years. My grandfather began bak- 
ing it right here in Brownsville in brick 
ovens, after a recipe which he found 
gave the crispest cracker and one that 
kept best for the longest time. This 
sounds rather primitive, and it is primi- 
tive when compared with the cheap 
methods by which many modern crack- 
ers are made. I still have the same 
man mixing the dough for me who 
mixed the first dough for the first 
Brownsville Cracker for my grand- 
father. 

A great many people ate Browns- 
ville Water Crackers, liked them, and 
kept on ordering them, and so the busi- 
ness has grown. From time to time 
I have enlarged the plant, until now 
it is big enough to supply *any demand 
without in any way depreciating the 
character of the crackers. Every 
Brownsville Water Cracker is made and 
baked in the same way it was fifty-five 
years ago. Every Brownsville Water 
Cracker is just as good as every other 
Brownsville Water Cracker, and just 
as good as any Brownsville Water 
Cracker ever was. 

Don't take my word for it. Don't 
take anybody's word for it. The price 
of a pound of Brownsville Water Crack- 
ers is only twenty-five cents, or you can 



When you write 'advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvi 



Advertisements 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxvii 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Let us 
send you 
one of our 
striking 
1906 
Calendars 



Our 1 906 Calendar is unique. It is twelve inches high and is 
lithographed in seven colors. Specially suitable for den or office. 
Sent postpaid to any address on receipt of four cents in stamps. 

JOHN P. SQUIRE & COMPANY, Boston 



IT IS MADE FOR YOU, 

The "Standard Rotary" 




Sewing Machine, 

To save your strength, your time, and 
assure you perfect and noiseless work. 
"Standards" are all one kind, the best. 

SHEPARD NORWELL COMPANY, 

BOSTON, flASS. 



get a ten-pound box for $1.50, making 
it fifteen cents a pound. Buy a pound 
of these crackers, and try them in any 
way in your home in which you use 
crackers most. Give them to the chil- 
dren; serve them with your soup, or 
salad, or with cheese; compare them 
with any water crackers you have 
tasted ; keep them as long as you want 
to, and see how well they keep ; and we 
will never have to say Brownsville 
Water Crackers to you again. 

All the best hotels and restaurants 
use them, and by "best" we really 
mean the best, — the ones where people 
go because the cooking is the best that 
can be had in America. 

I never knew a man or woman who 
really tried Brownsville Water Crack- 
ers who did not speak of them more 
strongly than I have spoken of them 
in this column. 




Chatland & Lenhart, 

Brownsville, Pa. 



The best toast is made with the 
crusts trimmed before toasting, and 
after that process it is spread evenly 
with butter, and sent at once to the 
table. A toast rack should be used 
only to hold the number of slices 
wanted by the party at the table. 
For a second "relay" there should be 
hot toast as freshly from the fire as 
the first. 

The nut trade of the South has 
already opened up, and the amount of 
chestnuts, walnuts, and peanuts going 
North daily at this season is enormous. 
Solid trains pass by, with perhaps thir- 
teen cars filled with chestnuts and as 
many more with walnuts, peanuts filling 
the rest of the cars. Last spring one 



When you write advertisers, please mention Tm Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxviii 



Advertisements 





UnliRe Other Sausage 

'F you take choice, lean, fresh pork, chop it fine with just 
enough fat mixed in to make it fry well, season it with pure 
spices, and enclose it in a. clean package, you have a 
sausage that makes a breakfast dish to tempt an epicure, 
d. The above is a good description of Squire's Arlington 
Sausage. Every bit of meat that we use has to pass the careful in- 
spection of a United States government inspector, stationed at our 
factory. We insist on perfect cleanliness in every part of our immense 
plant. Arlington sausage meat is chopped, — not ground, — and is deli- 
cately seasoned with pure spice. 

ml. The finished sausage is double-wrapped in germ-proof parchment 
paper and sealed. You get it from your dealer in one-pound packages, 
unopened after leaving the room in which it was made. Surely, it must 
appeal to you that such sausage is preferable to the ordinary kind you 
buy in bulk. 

€1, Squire's Arlington Sausage costs no more than good sausage ought 
to cost, and your dealer will supply you if you ask him. It is worth 
your while to insist if necessary. Arlington Sausage is made only by 

JOHN P. SQUIRE (Si COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 

Makers of Squire's Kettle-rendered Pure Leaf Lard 
High-grade Hams and Bacons 




© 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Maqazinb, 

xxix 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



it MUST HAVE 

THIS SIGNATURE, 



The lii 

Splendid 
Qualities 

of Liebig Com- 
pany 's Extract— 
the strength it 
gives, its brilliancy in solution, and 
perfect flavor— are due to the choice 
material from which it is prepared. The 
Liebig Company's main business is the 
manufacture of beef extract; it is not a 
by-product with them as with others. All 
the best cuts of beef are in 

LIEBIG COMPANY^ 

Extract of Beef 




Liebig's Extract of Meat Co., Ltd., 120 Hudson St., N.T, 

illlljiililllill! 



} 



WelcKs 

Grape Juice, 



is a most delightful beverage, 
either as a plain drink or made 
into a number of attractive, 
temperance, non-fermented 
punches. For the Christmas 
festivities and New Year hospi- 
tality it offers a pleasing substi- 
tute for more harmful refresh- 
ments. It is the pure juice of 
the finest Concord grapes, 
unchanged in any way, and put jR|£f5ff j S) 
up with unusual care. 



Sold by most druggists and gro- 
cers. In ordering, itis vorthyour 
while to specify " Welch's." If 
your dealer cannot supnly you, 
send $3.00 for trial dozen pints, 
express paid east o Omaha. 
Bookletwith delicious recipes 
for beverages an' 4 desserts 
made from We ch's Grape 
Juice free. Sample 3-ounce 
bottle, by mail, 10 cents. 

Welch Grape Juice Co. 
Westfield, N.Y. 






i 4e We 



<H 



record peanut shipment was made from 
Richmond, Va., of thirty carloads, or 
75,000 pounds, valued at some $60,000. 



The nut and persimmon crop of Mis- 
souri this year promises to be a record 
breaker. The season has been es- 
pecially good for '"simmons," and the 
fruit will be not only plentiful, but of 
excellent quality. 



Shipments of the orange crop of 
Northern and Central California begin 
in November, and are entirely over by 
the New Year. It is estimated that 
there will be 1,750 cars from the Porter- 
ville district alone. The Southern Cali- 
fornia crop has not yet been estimated, 
but according to indications it will be 
fully as large as that of last year, and 
perhaps somewhat in excess. 



A cold marble moulding-board is of 
course ideal, but where this is unobtain- 
able, as in an old house, then do not use 
wood, but a piece of sail-cloth instead. 
Flour as usual, and you will find that no 
kind of dough will stick to it. To keep 
clean, soak the cloth in cold water and 
scrub thoroughly with a brush. 



The contents of the inner vessel of a 
double boiler will boil very quickly if the 
water in the outer vessel is mixed with 
salt in a proportion of half a cup of salt 
to each quart of liquid. 



Having torn several pairs of stiffly 
starched sash curtains wheti inserting 
the brass rods, I discovered that, by 
moistening the hem of the curtain with 
a nail brush the rod would slip in easily, 
without tearing the curtain in the least. 




DAINTY 

HOUSEKEEPERS 

PREFER 

DIXON'S 

STOVE POLISH. 

Joseph Dixon Crucible Coupany, 
Jersey Gty, N. J 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

XXX 



Advertisements 




Portland, Oregon. 

1905 9 

The highest award within the power of the jury to confer, THE GOLD MEDAL 

of the Lewis & Clark Exposition, Portland, Oregon, has been given to 
Mellin's Food in recognition of its great value to humanity. Mellin's Food 
has always received the highest award wherever exhibited for awards. 

At St. Louis, 1904, Mellin s Food was the ONLY Infants' Food 
to receive tKe HigHest award, wHicH -was THE GrVAND PrVIZE. 

MELLIN'S FOOD COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxxi 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




A New Daintr- 

_Rosette Wafers 

Crisp and delicious— for breakfast, luncheon 
or afternoon tea. 

Made with the thinnest of baiter and a novel 
little iron. Any woman can make forty 
of them in 20 minutes at a cost of 10 cts. 

All the best dealers sell these irons at 50c a, set. 

If your dealer does not sell them, send us 70c 
and we will mail you a set postpaid. 

FREE- Mention your dealer's name when writ- 
ing, and we will give you a book of 30 new recipes 
telling how to serve these wafers, and our interesting 
catalogue of culinary novelties. 

ALFRED ANDRESEN & COMPANY 

' ' ; S., Minneapolis, Minn. 



WANTED. Experienced woman to take entire charge 
of the Culinary and Steward's Department of San- 
itarium near Chicago. Graduate of cooking-school 
preferred. Address, giving experience, references, 
and salary expected, 
PENNOYER SANITARIUn, KENOSHA, WISCONSIN. 



Quilted 
Table Padding' 

is much better than the antiquated 

woven stuff. 

There are several reasons why. 

It can be washed, others cannot. 

It does not cover diners' clothing with 

lint or fuzz. 
It does not stick to the table when 

hot plates are laid on it. 
It wears twice as long as any other. 

These are the "whys" that have 
made it almost universal. 



ALL DRY GOODS DEALERS SELL IT. 



EXCELSIOR QVII/TING CO., 
15 LaigHt Street, New York. 



Pleasantries 
The man who would be mad if you 
asked him to marry a cook is awfully 
out of temper when he finds he has not 
married a cook. 

"Little Harold came over to see 
me one morning," says a correspondent 
of the Boston Herald. ' ' I gave him an 
orange, and said, 'Now what do you 
say when one gives you an orange?' 
Promptly little Harold replied, in a 
piping voice, 'I says, "Peel it. ,,,,, 



Her mother had been trying to teach 
little three-year-old Dorothy to spell her 
own name, but met with poor success. 
At last she scolded her, and said that 
no one would think her very smart if 
she couldn't spell her own name. 
"Well," she exclaimed, "why didn't 
you just call me cat, and then it would 
be easy to spell ? Big names make little 
girls tired." 

Here is a curious bit of reasoning on 
the part of a little girl in a North End 
school. The examiner wished to get 
the children to express moral reproba- 
tion of lazy people, and he led up to it 
by asking who were the persons who 
got all they could and did nothing in 
return. For some time there was 
silence; but at last the little girl ex- 
claimed, with a good deal of confidence, 
"Please, sir, the baby!" 



Hon. Benjamin Kimball, ©ne of New 
Hampshire's well-known railroad men, 
is said to have complained to one of 
the butchers at Gilford, where Mr. Kim- 
ball's summer residence is, about the 
quality of meat supplied, saying: "That 



/hese trade-mark crisscross tines on every package. 



Glut 

BARI.E 

Perfect Breakfast 
PANSY FLOUR 
Unlike all 
For 
FARWELL & RHIN 




its 



AND 



STALS, 

iealth Cereals, 
lake and Biscuit. 

Ask Grocers, 
write 
ertown.N.Y.. U.S.A. 



, L When you write advertisers, please mention Th» Boston Cookino-School Magazine. 



Advertisements 




Magce Heaters are just a little more up-to-date than others. A di 
gard of expense to obtain the best, many years of varied experience, and 
an ability to grasp and adapt the most modern improvements have re- 
sulted in perfection, as near as it is possible to attain it, in the construc- 
tion of Magee Steam and Hot Water Heaters, 

J Economy, ease, safety, and satisfactory results 

I attend the use of all Magee apparatus. 

Illustrated Booklet, " The Magee Reputation," sent FREE. 

MAGEE FURNACE COMPANY,* 
Nos. 32-38 Union St., Boston, Mass. 

Makers of the celebrated " Magee '* 
Furnaces, Ranges and Stoves, 
Steam and Hot Water Heaters. 



m\ 



/ 



^> 



When you write advertisers, please mention Thi Boston Cooking-School Macazinb. 

xxxiii 



Advertisements 



SOMETHING ENTIPELY NEW. 



RULOFSONS CALIFORNIA 
LAVA TOASTER. Makes delicious 
golden-brown toast without burning or 
drying it up. Placed under enamelled 
ware cooking utensils, prevents con- 
tents from scorching and saves enam- 
elled ware 

TRY ONE. ONLY 25c. 
If you are not satisfied, send us your 
cash tag, showing where you purchased 
it, and we will return your money. 
For sale by all leading dealers or 
sent on receipt of 25c. 



A. C. RULOFSON CO. 

238 Crossley Building - - - San Francisco. 




BUY THE CELEBRATED 




CHAMBERLIN 
STEAM COOKER 

Cooks Everything. 

Used on a gas, coal, or oil stove, it will 
cook a big dinner with but flame enough 
to keep 2 quarts water boiling. It will 
do the every-day cooking with least pos- 
sible trouble, and gives out no odor. Un- 
surpassed as a Fruit Canner, for which 
directions go with each Cooker, and it is 
used extensively as a Sterilizer. 
The best in the world. Send for circular 



m S. W. Chamberlin Co. 



Office and Manufactory, 25 Union Street 
BOSTON, MASS. 




#eo. % cuts CO 



272 €cmgre£g Street 




p|aIf=tone 
OTorft a 
£pectalta 



JHustratinjj 
Printing 
Sc ^tnUinff 
Of 4S00U6 

^aga^nes, Cat 
aloffg, anH Pant 
pblets, lam anH 
Eatlroa* Wtorn 
Posters, ©ffice 
^tationerp, etc 



lamb you sold me must have been old 
enough to vote. It was so tough I 
could hardly cut it." "Oh," said the 
butcher, "that is nothing. Tom Fuller 
said the last piece of meat he bought of 
me was so tough he couldn't get his 
fork into the gravy." 



Cornelia T. Peck, a graduate of the 
Boston Cooking School in 1897, has 
been elected director of the Domestic 
Science Department of the Hill Indus- 
trial School, Florence (Northampton). 
Among thexlasses are two made up of 
girls from Smith College, morning 
classes for housekeepers and evening 
classes for girls employed in the silk 
mills. Miss Peck formerly had charge 
of the cooking classes in the public 
schools of Haverhill, Mass. 



Little Girl: "Please, have you a 
sheep's head?" Facetious Butcher: 
"No, my dear; only my own." Little 
Girl: "It won't do. Mother wants one 
with brains in it." 



Any One Can DRAW 

—perhaps not well, but every person can draw a 
little. Many people possess the talent for art work 
and never realize it. If you will make a drawing just 
the best you can and send it to our Art Director, he 
will give you a letter of friendly criticism and 

FREE ADVICE 

as to whether or not it will pay you to cultivate your 
talent. There is absolutely no charge for this ser- 
vice. Illustrators earn large salaries and the work is 
fascinating. We teach Book, Magazine, and Com- 
mercial Illustrating, Cartooning, Poster Drawing, 
Book Cover Designing, and P'ashion Drawing suc- 
cessfully by correspondence. Write your complete 
name and address plainly on your drawing, enclose 
stamps to pay postage if you wish vour drawing re- 
turned, and address THE ART DIRECTOR. 

We also teach Illustrating, Advertising, 
Proofreading, Journalism, Stenography, 
Show Card Writing, Bookkeeping, Elec- 
trical Engineering , Business Correspond- 
ence, and English Branches. 

If interested in any of the above professions, write 
for our large illustrated book, " Struggles with the 
World." It is FREE. State which course interests 
you, and receive one of our Employment Contracts. 
The best proposition ever offered. 

Correspondence Institute of America, 

Box 571. SCR ANTON, PA. 



— — 



When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 

xxxiv 



THE BOSTON 

CGDKING-SCHGDI 

MAGAZINE 



Or'CULINARaT'SCIENCEAND 
•DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS- 



THE, 
BOSTON 

CO0K1NGSCHO 

MAGAZINE, 



mmrmm 






fSfrxr 



v 



372 

BOYLSTON ST 

BOSTON 

MASSACHUSETTS 



Hp VOLlR 



JANUARY 



I 



.// 



IQ06 



No 



T"'(( 



IO A COPY 



\V"'r, 



$LOO A YEAR, 



For Tomorrow Morning's 
^ Early Bre&kf&st ^ 

H * v A e SCtUIME 9 S 







\ 



> c - 



*t . 



t 






F you have not as yet tried these 
sausage, there is a most enjoyable 
meal in store for you. 
They make a breakfast 
dish to tempt an epicure. 
But be sure you get 
the real "Arlington 
Sausage." Look 
for the name. 






" 



■■Hi 

Government Inspected 
Sausage 

OQUIRE'S ARLINGTON SAUSAGE are made only from the 
^ choicest selected meats, which have been carefully inspected 
by the United States government. This is a matter of HEALTH 
and is of VITAL IHPORTANCE. Arlington Sausage are abso- 
lutely pure and wholesome, made from the finest meats, and 
seasoned with pure spices which we grind ourselves. Squire's 
Arlington Sausage are sold in one-pound, parchment-wrapped 
packages, and are never sold loose or in bulk. If your dealer 
cannot supply you, we will send 

ExpiesH Prepaid, Money Bach, if Unsatisfactory 

five one-pound packages and a sample pail of Squire's Kettle- 
rendered Pure Leaf Lard for $1. Join with your neighbor in 
ordering a trial box. 

JOHN P. SQUIRE (8b CO., Boston, Mass. 




When you write advertisers, please mention The Boston Cooking-School Magazine. 



MENU FOR COMPANY LUNCHEON 

GRAPE-FRUIT COCKTAII,. 

CONSOMME ENTASSE, QUEEN FASHION. 

OLIVES. 

HALIBUT A LA NEWBURG IN RAMEKINS. 

LADY-FINGER ROLLS. 

BROILED FILLETS OF BEEF WITH BLANCHED MARROW, 

BROWN SAUCE. 

FLORIDA LETTUCE, FRENCH DRESSING. 

CARAMEL PARFAIT IN TALL GLASSES. 

BROWNED ALMONDS. MACAROONS WITH CHERRIES. 

COFFEE. 

MENU FOR SILVER WEDDING 

OYSTER PATTIES. 

CELERY. OLIVES. 

GALANTINE OF CHICKEN, ASPIC JELLY. 

WHITE BREAD-AND-NUT SANDWICHES. SALAD ROLLS. 

LITTLE CAKES. WAFERS. FROZEN PUDDING. 

TEA. COFFEE. 

HOT BOUILLON IN HALL AS GUESTS GO HOME. 



The 
Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Vol. X. 



UNUARY 



No. 6. 



Colonial Hearths 

By Mary H. Northend 



LIFE in our modern comforta- 
ble homes, heated by steam 
^Jand furnace, with the grate as 
a luxurious accessory, presents a radi- 
cally different aspect from that of our 
forefathers, who in their rudely con- 
structed houses were obliged to de- 
pend upon the fireplace as only means 
of warmth, and also for culinary pur- 
poses. 

The fireplace of early colonial times 
was large and deep, built for admit- 
ting a huge back log, which some- 
times measured ten feet in length. 
This was brought from forest to door 
by oxen dexterously hitched to the 
heavy chain that bound it. 

In the heart of an unknown wilder- 
ness, driven from their mother land 
by civil and religious persecutions, 
the sturdy pioneers of those early days 
built their huts from logs hewn labori- 
ously from the felled monarchs of the 
forests, placing within them such rude 
furnishing as they were able to con- 
struct, neglecting least of all that 
which was to stand between them 
and the bitter winters of a strange land, 
— the fireplace. 

Nowhere in the old country were 
to be found such ample facilities for 
roaring fires as these primitive struct- 
ures afforded. The fireplaces were nec- 



essarily rude in construction, the spaces 
between the logs being filled with clay. 
These were known as "catted chim- 
neys." Others were built entirely of 
rough stones, in their natural state, 
carefully selected, and placed, accord- 
ing to their size and contour, so as to 
form a deep cavern. At the back of 
these were placed the back logs, serv- 
ing the purpose of throwing the heat 
forward and preventing too great 
absorption of it in the rear by the 
stone construction of the fireplace. 
With wood pile at the rear door, to 
be had for the chopping, and a huge 
glowing fire giving forth its tremendous 
heat inside, these early settlers must 
have felt that, whatever privations 
they might be called upon to endure, 
there was at least a degree of compen- 
sation in their blazing hearths. 

As the settlements grew from re- 
peated additions to their numbers, 
and new settlements sprung into life 
and spread into the interior, better 
and more substantial houses were 
erected. In the eleven years follow- 
ing John Kndicott's arrival at Salem 
twenty-one thousand people left Eng- 
land for the shores of Massachusetts 
Bay. Every trade and profession was 
represented in these emigrations; and, 
leaving comfortable homes, as the 



264 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Fireplace in Page House, Danvers, Mass. 

colonists did, their skill and taste, with 
the increased facilities for building, 
led to the erection of more solid and 
comfortable homes. 

Naturally, the fireplace received its 
share in the improved condition of 
affairs. Brick and mortar supple- 
mented rude stones, and the iron crane 
made its appearance at the back. 
From the crane depended huge hooks 
to receive the dinner-pots and tea- 
kettles, — important articles of the house- 
wife's department. 

The introduction of the brick oven 
proved a great blessing, doing away 
as it did with the trying process of 
cooking by the aid of embers alone. 
Baking day was a busy one in the 
colonial home. First, wood was lighted 
in the great cavernous oven, and for 
two hours a raging fire held sway 
within its confines. Then the embers 
were removed; and bread, cake, and 
pies were placed in the bottom of 
the oven, to cook at leisure. Those 
who have never tasted food cooked 
by this method cannot, of course, ap- 
preciate their loss, while they who have 
know the delicate flavor gained by 
this slow, even heat, and decline to 
compare it to that of the most epi- 
curean dainty produced by modern 
culinary schools. 

One pictures in fancy the long win- 
try evenings of these colonial times, — 
the family gathered in the great living- 



room after the table had been cleared 
of supper viands, the father and mother 
engaged in homely tasks, the little ones 
seated on settles either side of the 
yawning mouth, their bright eyes in- 
tent upon the rows of apples sputter- 
ing upon the hearth, the older mem- 
bers drawing their chairs closer as they 
feel the inevitable chill that comes with 
a few feet removal from the cheery 
blaze. 

With the clearing of forests and the 
growth of towns, the great back log 
became less immediately available ; and 
the fireplace began to diminish in size. 
Then, too, the increased number of 
rooms no longer demanded the im- 
mense family fireplace which had 
hitherto been urgent. Some of the 
large fireplaces were hedged in, while 
others were twice backed, to make 
them shallower, and to afford an op- 
portunity for a fire-frame. Doubtless 
the researches of Count Rumford in 
heat and light proved of value to our 
forefathers of that day, who wished 
to retain heat, without smoke, in their 
houses. 




Fireplace in Nathan Osgood House, 
Salem, Mass. 



Colonial Hearths 



265 




Fireplace showing Eagle 

Probably no finer collection of co- 
lonial hearths can be found in any one 
city in this country than may be seen 
to-day in Salem, Mass., the home of 
old-time merchant princes, famous in 
the days when Salem was a synonym 
for commercial greatness. The old 
Derby Street mansions show to-day 
fireplaces faced with the most exquisite 
hand-carved mantels, the delight of 
all artists and lovers of beauty who 
view them. 

Some of these show the figure of an 
eagle in the centre, — an emblem which 
came into vogue at the close of the 
Revolutionary War. These are known 
as Constitution pieces, and are the 
work of a famous wood-carver, Samuel 
Mclntire by name, who made his home 
in Salem. It is his work which has 
made the distinctive artistic quality 
of Salem mantels compared with simi- 
lar devices of other New England 
towns. Baskets filled with flowers, 
and horns of plenty, are some of his 
favorite designs; and they show that 
exquisite care in detail which was a 
distinguishing trait of his genius. 



Hob-grates, or grates for the burn- 
ing of coal, were first introduced about 
1750, the same year that the decora- 
tion of the fireplace began to receive 
particular attention. The fireplace was 
filled in to meet the demands of the 
grate proportions, the grate itself being 
decorated with brass trimmings. 

An example of a fine old colonial 
fireplace and mantel is seen in the 
home of Mr. Daniel Low on Essex 
Street. This house was built in 1748 
by Joseph Cabot, and is in pure co- 
lonial style of architecture. The fire- 
place is in a room that is occupied 
as a den by the present owner, and 
is directly opposite the entrance. This 
mantel is in Mclntire's most elaborate 
style, with the carved eagle as a centre- 
piece. The fireplace still shows the 
original hob-grate of the first owner, 
which was known in other days as 
"cat -stones," to distinguish them from 
"fire-dogs." A small brass fender to 
enclose ashes, and a larger one of wire, 
to protect the clothing from sparks, 
are old-time accessories to the hearth. 




Fireplace in Daniel Low House, Salem, Mass. 



i66 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 




Franklin Stove in Saltonstall House, 
Haverhill, Mass. 

In another Salem home on Federal 
Street is a second hob-grate, the deco- 
rations of the fireplace being those 
which became popular about 1750, 
when blue-and-white Dutch tiles were 
employed. These tiles represent a suc- 
cession of Bible scenes, and are of 
more than passing interest, owing to 
the fine quality of the work and the 
fact that such decorative scenes are 
very rare, having been replaced in 
later generations by scenes of modern 
adventure and sport. 

Fire-dogs and andirons, which had 
formerly been luxuries, became com- 
mon at this period. Steeple tops were 
often found in the fireplace. Andirons, 
of varying size found a home on 
the hearth, thus accommodating dif- 
ferent sizes of logs, besides 
adding to the charm of the 
blaze; for the old wood- 
accommodating fireplace had 
not as yet been superseded, 
in many homes, by the coal 
grate. 

The child of the fire-frame 
was the Franklin stove. In 
the latter portion of the eigh- 
teenth century the opening 
of the fireplace was often 
filled with brick or boarded 
up, and a fire-frame was 
used. The stove, however, 



its place. The rear was fashioned 
to set into the fireplace, leaving the 
front to project into the room. They 
became popular at once. Their shin- 
ing rosettes and polished knobs were 
attractive, but doubtless taxed the 
housekeeper's patience by exacting 
demands for the polishing cloth. 

A very beautiful stove of this char- 
acter is owned by Mr. Gurdon S. 
Howe, of Haverhill, who occupies the 
house of his ancestor, Dr. Nathaniel 
Saltonstall, the first medical practi- 
tioner of that city. This stove stands 
in the library of its present owner, and 
has two iron fire-guards, representing 
a lion and a unicorn, connected bv 
chains. 

A colonial hearth on the spot where 
the Indian formerly lighted his fires 
is of particular interest in West New- 
bury, Mass. The late Major Benja- 
min Perley Poore, journalist, author, 
and noted antiquarian, left in his mu- 
seum many rare and valuable curios. 
One of the quaint old fireplaces shows 
a Franklin stove of early design, set 
into cavernous depths of blackness, 
contrasting with the marble of the 
chimney front. 

Marble in the middle of the eight- 
eenth century was greatly admired 
for chimney pieces, both white and 
variegated varieties being used. Not 




invented by Franklin took 



Hob-grate in Nicholls House, Salem, Mass. 



Colonial Hearths 



267 



infrequently the hearth itself was made 
of closely fitted marble blocks. 

It is the harmonious blending of 
past and present into to-day's revival 
of the fireplace that constitutes one 
of its charms. About many a modern 
hearth are grouped andirons, fender, 
tongs, and scuttle that have seen the 



service of masters long since gone the 
way of the blazing log. Musing in 
the flickering light of the present, 
thoughts slip into channels which flow 
toward old-time hearths, while laugh- 
ing faces look out from the flames, 
beckoning the present to a pleasant 
hour with the past. 




Drawing-room at Ambassador von L. Meyer's House at Hamilton, Mass. 



In Time of Need 



By Eugene C. Dolson 



Only a loving word, 

Helpful and kind and true; 
But one the sweet voice heard, — 
Solace for hope deferred, — 
And, all her deep soul stirred, 

Took heart anew. 



Only a generous deed 

For one who strove in vain; 
But this sufficed his need, 
And he, from bondage freed, 
In manhood's pride decreed 

To rise again. 



a68 The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 

^° MENUS FOR TEAS, AFTERNOON AND EVENING ^? 

r>? RECEPTIONS IN JANUARY r^ 

a i. a. 

^? TOASTED CASSAVA CAKES. TEA WITH SQUARES OF CANDIED PINEAPPLE. ^ 

^o II. ^ 

TINY BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. TEA. CREAM. SUGAR. <M. 

BONBONS. ^° 

III. 

TOTTENHAM MUFFINS, TOASTED AND BUTTERED. TEA. 

IV. 

WHITE BREAD-AND-PRESERVED GINGER SANDWICHES. 

WHITE BREAD-AND-HONEY SANDWICHES. 

FAIRY GINGERBREAD. MACAROONS. 

COCOA WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 

V. 

WHITE BREAD-AND-ORANGE MARMALADE SANDWICHES. 
WHITE BREAD-AND-CRESS SANDWICHES. 



$ 



a 



a 



LADY FINGERS. ALMOND MERINGUES WITH WHIPPED CREAM. 

TEA. 

VI. 

HOT BOUILLON. BREAD STICKS. 

SHRIMP SALAD. 

BROWN BREAD-AND-BUTTER SANDWICHES. 

COFFEE. 

VII. 

CHICKEN, ENGLISH WALNUT- AND-CELERY SALAD. 
OLIVES. SALTED PISTACHIO NUTS. 

GRAHAM BREAD-AND-BUTTER SANDWICHES. 
CARAMEL PARFAIT IN GLASSES, POUNDED CARAMEL ABOVE. 
TINY CAKES BAKED IN NUT MOULDS. 
TEA. COFFEE. 

VIII. 

CELERY, TONGUE-AND-PARADISE NUT SALAD, ASPIC JELLY. 

OLIVES. BROWNED PIGNOLIA NUTS. SALAD ROLLS. 

PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM IN SHERBET CUPS, 

CURRANT JELLY OR CLARET SAUCE. 

COFFEE. 

IX. 

CREAMED OYSTERS IN RAMEKINS. 

OLIVES. CELERY. 

ROLLS FILLED WITH CHICKEN SALAD. 

CAFE PARFAIT IN GLASSES. 

NESSELRODE PUDDING IN PAPER CASES. 

LITTLE CAKES. COFFEE. 



a 

tt 
tt 



13 
15 



a 



fa&zt °rt°d °a °d °d & 'diet tx °ct & °d °a & °a^ 



My Wife's Function 

By Myra Williams Jarrell 



SALLIE was nibbling the end of 
her pen, and frowning. That 
the moment was portentous, I 
was certain. I had not lived ten years 
as Sallie's husband without becoming 
acquainted with that thoughtful frown. 

"I don't see how we can get out of 
it," she finally murmured abstractedly. 

"Do you want to get out of it?" 
I asked with as much interest as I 
could assume, considering that I had 
no more idea than the man in the 
moon what she was talking about. 

Ignoring my question, she continued 
her monologue, "Everybody else has 
them." 

"Oh!" I exclaimed optimistically, 
a light breaking in on my bewildered 
brain, "if it's the measles, you mean, — 
we don't necessarily have to have them, 
just because all the children in the 
neighborhood, and a few adults" — 

"What are you talking about?" 
And Sallie turned upon me such a look 
of scorn that I fairly quailed beneath it. 

"You began it," I stoutly asserted. 

"I certainly never mentioned any- 
thing so silly as the measles," said she. 

"I don't call them silly. Why, 
the Archers' little boy was left deaf 
with them" — 

"I can't imagine what that has to 
do with our dinner we were discussing." 

It was now my time to stare. "Our 
dinner! We were not discussing it; 
but, since we are on the subject, I 
would like to say that the roast was 
villanously cooked, the coffee was 
muddy, and as for the pudding" — 

"Oh, poor, foolish boy! I did not 
mean to-nighfs dinner. I referred to 
the one we are going to give next week. 
I have a few of the items jotted down 
now." And she held up the paper 
over which she had been wrinkling 
her brow. 



Sallie had made up her mind. Know- 
ing what that meant, I was silent. 
Pursuing her own pleasant thoughts, 
she continued: "Just a little informal 
affair, only it must be very swell. 
The Appletons, you know, and" — 

' ' The Appletons ! That snobbish little 
woman who has been introduced 
to you dozens of times, and always 
accepts each fresh introduction as 
though it was the first!" 

Sallie squirmed. I know it would 
be more poetic to say she winced. Per- 
haps ten years ago I would have used 
the nicer expression. But, if it has 
done nothing else for me, marriage 
has taught me honesty. Sallie calls 
it painful exactness. But, whatever 
it is, it compels me to reiterate that 
Sallie squirmed. 

"Well, of course," she began lamely, 
"she had no cause to remember me" — 

"I don't agree with you, my dear, 
for it was a reproach you dinned into 
my ears, that you wore the same dress 
every time you met her. I should 
have thought she would have recalled 
the dress; but I remember that the 
last time you were abusing that lady, 
you said caustically that, if you had 
worn a different dress each time you 
had met her, her memory would have 
been better." 

"Oh, don't be disagreeable. Any- 
way, when I called on her" — 

"You called on her?" I asked re- 
bukingly. 

"Yes, I did. Everybody else had, 
and"— 

"Did she recall having met you 
before?" was my stern question. 

"No" — Sallie reluctantly admitted, 
but added hopefully, "She said she 
had heard of me." 

I laughed. It was mean; but I 
laughed, anyway, 



270 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



And then my imperious Sallie, quite 
humbled and apologetic, laid down a 
dozen good and sufficient reasons why 
she should have this particular lady 
snob and her prissy little old husband 
to dinner. 

I couldn't commend one of the rea- 
sons, but I summed it up tersely in a 
few words: "You think she will begin 
paying her social obligations, and are 
afraid you will be left out unless you 
entertain her. That kind of a woman 
would likely forget to invite you, any- 
way, so what's the use of going to the 
expense of entertaining her?" 

"You are not only coarse, but pe- 
nurious as well," my lady informed me. 

After we had sparred a little longer, 
and I knew I was beaten, we settled 
down into an amicable discussion as 
to ways and means, and decided to 
let the rent go over another week, so 
that we could have that much more to 
spend on the dinner. I was for hav- 
ing carnations for the table flower for 
several reasons. But Sallie thought 
nothing but American Beauties, at 
$12 per dozen, were suitable for the 
Appletons. I tried to make her be- 
lieve that the odor of American Beauties 
made me deathly ill; but Sallie settled 
the matter by saying I probably con- 
fused them with sunflowers, and that 
she didn't believe I had ever seen an 
American Beauty rose, — that certainly 
we never had any in the house, though 
Mame Sexton always had them on her 
wedding anniversary from her husband. 

That reminded me of something 
else, so I said hastily, "Of course we 
will invite the Sextons." 

"Oh, no," I was informed. "Cer- 
tainly, not! Mame and Luke wouldn't 
expect it ! At least, they ought not to !" 

"I don't see why," I protested. 
"Mame has more sense than that Ap- 
plet on woman, and she's much pret- 
tier. And, as for Luke, why he's twice 
the fellow that dub of an Appleton 
is"— 



"Physically, perhaps, not socially," 
my wife blandly informed me. 

"Well, he ought to be. He is 
smarter and more upright in business. 
I can't understand this sudden popu- 
larity of the Appletons, except that 
he made a lucky speculation, which 
brought him in a few thousands and 
made a fool of his wife. They have 
no family to boast of, they are both 
ill-bred"— 

"We won't discuss that," said Sallie. 
And I saw that she meant it. 

Then everything proceeded smoothly 
for ten minutes, during which time 
Sallie informed me that my old dress 
suit would do very well for me, but 
that she must have a new evening 
gown. That point conceded, all was 
lost. In another five minutes the 
most exclusive caterer in town had 
been settled upon, — not exclusive be- 
cause he was any more proficient, but 
because it was "the thing" to have 
him. 

Inside of half an hour everything 
was arranged, even to the excluding 
of the Wilsons, our two very best 
friends, because they wouldn't "fit 
in." They were not in "that set." 
"Are you in that set ? " I idly queried. 

Sallie had scarlet fever when she 
was a child, and I sometimes think it 
affected her hearing. At any rate, 
there are times when she appears to be 
deaf. This was one of the times. "I 
can have Mame and Louise here to 
spend the day soon," she threw out as 
a sop. 

"That's a good idea," was my re- 
sponse. "Have them the next day, 
and make hash of what's left from the 
dinner. ' ' 

Sallie gave me a withering look; 
and our conversation came to an ab- 
rupt end, only to be revived long 
enough for Sallie to announce that she 
would ask the Worthings, as they were 
so intimate with the Appletons, for 
the other couple. "For it will be a 



My Wife's Function 



271 



small affair, just the six of us, — that 
will make it more cosey than to have a 
large number. " 

"Yes, it will be deuced cosey with 
those two imbeciles, Appleton and 
Worthing," I admitted. 

And then Sallie left the room. She 
always does when I explode. That's 
a woman for you. She will goad a 
man till he can't refrain from saying 
the only comforting thing he knows 
to say; and then she is insulted, and 
leaves the room, and, likely as not, 
goes off, and wonders whether any 
man is really good enough for - any 
woman, and all that kind of rot. 

Now I am a man, and to such the 
ways of woman are past all under- 
standing. I had watched my Sallie, 
among our intimates, scintillating and 
witty, and, best of all, appreciated, 
liked, and listened to. Then, on the 
few occasions that we had in some 
unaccountable way broken into "that 
set," I had seen her sitting expectant, 
eager to add a sparkler of thought to 
the frothy talk, — I will not call it con- 
versation. Her efforts usually were 
unavailing. They had no time for 
her. I, being on a salary, and not a 
princely one, and she attired in last 
year's gowns, were social mistakes, — 
mistakes, it is true, to be overlooked. 

If, in some lapse, Sallie wedged in 
the remark she had patiently and 
pathetically nursed, no one heard it. 
She could say nothing which could 
possibly interest ■ ' that set . " But every 
gaze was intent, all ears opened wide, 
so not to miss any of the toads which 
hopped from the mouth of the dough- 
faced lady whose husband had made 
millions in speculation. Her choicest 
epigrams were encrusted with such 
verbiage that the shade of Daniel 
Webster would have hidden his di- 
minished head, could he have heard. 

And yet my Sallie tingled with joy 
at every chance which threw her into 
the company of "that set." 



Well, the morning of the eventful 
day "dawned bright and fair," just 
as it does in novels. There was an 
excitement in our happy home which 
did not make for peace and content- 
ment. 

Our hired girl (nothing makes Sallie 
so provoked as for me to call our 
"maid" a hired girl) got impertinent, 
and threatened to quit, and nothing 
short of a raise in her wages would 
hold her. 

Sallie fidgeted around, dusting the 
furniture after the maid had finished, 
running to the refrigerator to make 
sure that there was plenty of ice, and 
doing sundry other unnecessary stunts. 

At noon the caterer came with his 
corps of assistants; and even I was 
impressed by his grand manner, and 
found myself saying, "No, sir," and 
"Yes, sir," to him. 

Just as Sallie finally left the kitchen, 
with flushed cheeks and a victorious 
air, the telephone rang. Sallie, being 
summoned, was lightly informed by 
Mrs. Worthing that she was awfully 
sorry, but that she and Mr. Worth- 
ing were just about to take the train 
for the city. They had had a tele- 
gram, she condescended farther to 
explain, from the Appletons, inviting 
them to join them, and go with them 
that night to the opera, etc. 

I have been married ten years, and 
I trust that I have learned to be loyal 
to the woman I promised to love and 
cherish. Therefore, I draw a veil 
over the thirty minutes following the 
telephone conversation. And let no 
man, unless he be a married man simi- 
larly situated, fancy that he can see 
behind that veil ! 

It ended by our inviting the Sextons 
and Wilsons to dine with us that night. 

"My!" commented Mame over the 
'phone when I talked with her, — for it 
was I who did the talking, — "seven 
thirty, you say: you must be dead 
swell!" 



!272 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



I could not explain to her that to 
have told that major-domo in the 
kitchen to serve dinner an hour ear- 
lier, to suit the exigencies of the occa- 
sion, was as impossible a feat as to in- 
form him that two of our guests had 
gone off on the train at the summons 
of the other two, who had even for- 
gotten they were invited! 

"He must never know!" Sallie had 
whispered, in her final gasp of despair. 
And I had assured her he should never 
know. 

"They must never know, — the Sex- 
tons and Wilsons," she had managed 
to articulate, and had been told to 
trust all to me. 

Never before had I risen superior 
to my Sallie. But, in justice to her, 
I must explain that my courage, in 
the face of her weakness, was due to 
the fact that, if I had to go in debt 
for a function, I much preferred to 
have Luke Sexton and Jim Wilson 
eating it up than those creatures for 
whom it was planned. 

By evening Sallie had braced up, 
and begun to take notice. She wore 
her new gown, and presided with 
grace and dignity at the elaborate 
course dinner, faultlessly served by 
the major-domo's trained waiters. 

It was evident that the Sextons and 
Wilsons were simply dumfounded at 
the elegance of the affair. "Say, 
Charley, this is what I call a function, 
sure enough," Louise whispered to 
me, with a glance over her shoulder 
to make sure that one of the factotums 
didn't hear her. 

Never in that little old house was 
there so pompous and dignified an 
occasion. It began with Sallie, and 
finally infected us all. We rose above 
the gay gabble which ordinarily pre- 
vailed at that board, with that "crowd" 
(not "set"). 

We spoke in hushed tones of high 
ideals with the oysters. With the 
soup we toyed with Carlyle's "French 



Revolution." The fish, by a sequence 
of ideas, suggested the evolution of 
man. With the game we discussed 
Lucullus and his gorgeous feasts. The 
salad provoked us to airy persiflage, 
which, somehow or other, was not airy. 
Even the wines which followed the 
courses in the proper manner, laid 
down by the fellows who know, in- 
stead of lightening, only deepened the 
solemnity. 

We ate, we drank, but we did not 
make merry. It was too much to 
ask with all those American Beauty 
roses staring us in the face and the 
waiters staring us in the back. 

Of course, the women withdrew and 
left us men to our wine and walnuts. 
Sallie had insisted upon that. She 
was not willing to alter her original 
plans in any particular, for fear that 
cook fellow would think it strange. 

A gloom like the pall of death fell 
on us three old chums after the women 
left us. I rehearsed to myself that 
formula used in dismissing servants: 
"Henry, you may withdraw. I will 
ring if we need anything"; but, when 
I cleared my throat and opened my 
mouth to speak, all I said was, "Mr. 
Sexton, have another cigar." 

Mr. Sexton ! My old pal, Luke ! 

Well, well, it's queer how the mi- 
crobe of snobbishness gets into a fel- 
low's blood! And it's alarming that 
the presence of a dumb waiter can 
make old friends act like new ! 

Jim Wilson had heard traditions 
about the witty after-dinner stories 
men tell to each other after the women 
withdraw, so he essayed one. It was 
so pathetic that I surreptitiously wiped 
my eyes with my silk handkerchief. 

But as all things, good and bad, 
come to an end, in time, so did that 
dinner. After a respectable and what 
I deemed usual lapse of time, I rose 
and said dignifiedly, "Gentlemen, shall 
we rejoin the ladies?" 

After our guests had departed with 




Making of Homes 



2 73 



proper decorum, and the hired ser- 
vants had been paid, I looked at 
Sallie. 

And, upon my word, even though 
there was nothing left to jingle in 
my pockets but my night key and 
my Chinese pocket-piece, I felt pity 
for her. So I said cheerfully: "Well, 
old girl, I'm glad we had those people 
here to eat up that truck. I fancy we 



surprised them with our style. But 
what I've been thinking is, — this is 
a conundrum, — if it was this stiff with 
intelligent people like the Sextons and 
Wilsons, how stiff would it have been 
with the Appletons"— 

"Never mention that name to me 
again," vehemently commanded my 
wife. 

"Amen!" I fervently responded. 



Making of Homes 

By Kate Gannett Wells 



THE name of Mrs. Mary Hem- 
enway will always be linked 
with the term "Household 
Arts," for it was through her wisdom, 
personal influence, and generosity that 
the Boston Normal School of Cooking 
was established in 1887, i 11 connection 
with the public schools of her city. 
To her also was due the introduction of 
sewing and the Swedish system . of 
gymnastics as branches of public school 
education. She imparted, moreover, a 
great impulse to the study of American 
history by her successful efforts for 
the preservation of the Old South 
Church and by her founding of the 
historical work and clubs which bear 
that ancient name. 

After her death the trustees of her 
estate, in 1898, offered her School of 
Cooking to the State Normal School at 
Framingham, Mass.; and, because she 
cared for beauty in all things and be- 
lieved that out of well-ordered homes 
would come national strength, the 
name of "Household Arts" was given 
to this new department of the Framing- 
ham school. Her children, Mr. Augus- 
tus Hemenway, Mrs. Louis Cabot, and 
Mrs. W. B. C Bustis, united in equip- 
ping the laboratory kitchen with every 
appliance requisite for teaching cookery 



in its different forms. Miss Amy Mor- 
ris Homans, under whose fostering care 
the Boston school had attained such 
high rank, directed every detail of the 
transfer of the old school to its new 
abode, while Miss Louisa A. Nicholas 
continued at the head of the department 
under the general superintendence of 
the principal of the school. 

The course of study is outlined for 
three years, and includes quantitative 
and qualitative chemistry, physics, 
general biology, bacteriology, physi- 
ology, and some thorough knowledge 
of drainage, plumbing, ventilation, and 
sanitation, to which the pupils must 
apply practical tests. Such subjects 
can well be called household sciences, 
their practical application taking place 
in the school kitchen or in the boarding 
halls. 

In the school kitchen, one of the best 
and largest rooms in the school, the 
work is arranged on educational as 
well as on technical lines. The five 
"food principles," or nutrients, are 
fully taught, the practice of cookery 
embracing household, advanced, fancy 
and special cookery. Bach pupil learns 
to cook alike by gas and coal range 
and to understand food stuffs, — carbo- 
hydrates, proteids or albuminous foods, 



274 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



fats, butter and dough mixtures, and 
fermentation. A course in practical 
laundry work is given, also in sewing, 
home nursing, first aid, and marketing. 
Much importance is attached to the 
last subject, for not even good cooking 
can negative the need for wise selection 
of meats in the shop. The pupils go 
in groups, several times in a term, to 
the wholesale and retail butcher, where 
practical lessons in cutting up meat are 
given them. They also visit grocery 
establishments, restaurants, and in- 
stitutions, studying the serving of foods 
and learning how to prepare menus and 
keep accounts. 

But best of all the ways of instruction 
is the regulation that requires each 
pupil to spend a part of every day for 
eight weeks in the kitchens of the 
boarding halls, where they take part in 
the preparation of the daily meals and 
learn how to plan and cook for a hun- 
dred boarders, as they could not pos- 
sibly do in the school kitchen, which 
deals with small quantities only. The 
salaried, regular head cook takes as 
much pride in the school pupils who 
become her temporary coworkers, as 
does their professor of chemistry. In 
the boarding halls the scholars also 
acquire the best methods of doing 
chamber, parlor, and dining-room work, 
while in school hours they are obliged to 
attain a certain proficiency in drawing 
and become familiar with the elemen- 
tary principles of household decoration. 

As most of the graduates become 
teachers, they must learn how to teach 
others, and, therefore, each senior, as- 
sisted by a junior, takes charge during 
the year of a class made up from the 
pupils of the high-school and grammar 
grades of the town. The normal girls 
thus find out how to test their ability as 
instructors, gaining confidence in them- 
selves through the sympathetic criti- 
cism of the various department teachers. 
There are always some graduates who 
accept positions as matrons and house- 



keepers. Several of them superintend 
the cooking in some of the chief hospi- 
tals in the country. Others are wholly 
engaged in the preparation of dietaries, 
while from those girls who have married 
come most grateful letters for the 
knowledge gained at school that enables 
them to live in plenty, on a small in- 
come, and to have much leisure through 
doing all their own work. 

Herein lies the ultimate benefit of 
household arts, — the making of homes. 
In a normal school, though the peda- 
gogic results must have chief place, they 
do not obscure the indirect advantages 
gained from a wide and thorough study 
of subjects connected with the home. 
Fuller dignity will be won for manual 
labor when children learn how to cook 
for the home as a regular branch of 
school study. Employer and employee 
will understand better each other's 
rights when both have worked together 
over the same household problems in 
the school curriculum. Then science 
will be found to be as productive of 
economic gains, in household expendi- 
tures, as beauty is now seen to be of 
practical utility, in the school-room. 

The Normal School at Framingham 
is only one of many schools where 
household arts are now taught, but it 
was the first State school to introduce 
such training and to adjust its courses 
to the other regular branches of a 
normal school, since at Framingham 
household arts is not a substitute for, 
but an addition to, its regular normal 
training. 

Any teacher in country or city affects 
the home life of her pupils consciously 
and unconsciously; yet to the teacher 
of household arts, whose pupils often 
come from a family life where wise 
economy and healthy food are unknown, 
is given fuller opportunity to enrich the 
homes of others than usually falls to 
the lot of regular grade instructors. 
When this is done without benevolent 
interference with parental rights, the 



Garnishes 



275 



condescension of superiority, or the 
friction of social classes, then do all 
pupils, rich or poor, native or foreign, 
take courses in household arts simply as 
a most valuable part of school experi- 
ence, which is sure to be useful to each 
one at some time or other. 

In this way, household work becomes 



an industrial profession worthy of 
technical, scientific, and artistic train- 
ing. In this way, no one need dread 
doing her own work ; and, as knowledge 
passes over from the school-room into 
family life, homes are endowed with 
power to become healthy, happy, and 
sane. 



Garnishes 

By a Mere Man 



IN the discussion of this subject 
reference will be made to various 
forms of garnishing, and it should 
perhaps be explained that every ex- 
ample was selected from the more 
pretentious culinary works of recent 
date, and that in nearly every instance 
choice was made among those that 
had been considered sufficiently satis- 
factory to picture forth in half-tone or 
other illustration. Further, it should 
be added that the intention is to sug- 
gest them for consideration as to 
whether they are good or bad, not to 
imply necessarily that they are either. 
Garnishes have an aesthetic purpose 
solely, being designed to ornament the 
food we eat, and, by first pleasing the 
eye, render the viands more acceptable 
to the palate. Within these limits there 
is ample scope for decorative ability, 
and within these limits it should be 
confined. Ornamentation that is re- 
pulsive to the finer sensibilities in any 
way surely defeats its purpose. It may 
be something that will disgust on the 
physical side, and so check any possible 
awakening of the appetite. Thus, in 
our modern day, probably no one would 
be attracted by a fringe of live snails 
around the platter, though we still 
condescend to the aristocratic little 
neck and the slimy raw oyster. On the 
other hand, if the garnish be merely 



incongruous or inartistic, it will do no 
great harm to the guest, even if it 
excite his mirth; but it proclaims only 
too plainly the lack of taste in the cook, 
and should, preferably, be omitted al- 
together. 

One mode of serving food is to imi- 
tate nature in some way, as when a 
fish is boiled whole, and so brought to 
the table. Many people consider this 
a bit too realistic, but the majority — on 
the principle, I suppose, that, if one is 
to eat fish, the appearance cannot be 
displeasing — find it a satisfactory varia- 
tion from more common methods. 
Granting that it be so cooked, can it 
be decorated to advantage? Usually, 
it is displayed upright in the so-called 
swimming position, and frequently upon 
a bed of lettuce leaves or surrounded 
by a miniature ocean of spinach. If 
to the waves one wishes to add a little 
froth and foam of stiff cream mayon- 
naise, have we gone too far? 

The next step away from realism is 
to treat the food as desired, and then 
return it to as close an imitation of its 
original state as may be within the skill 
of the cook. Thus the fish instanced 
above is merely cleaned and cooked, 
but with a lobster the flesh is often 
removed from the shell, made up into a 
salad, and then returned to the care- 
fully cleaned carcass and tail for serving. 



276 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



This, again, is well enough from some 
points of view ; but how about the custom 
of sticking a small lobster claw into the 
end of a lobster cutlet? If this seems 
good, shall we further place a rice crous- 
tade in the centre of the servinj dish, 
stick the large claws upright in this, 
and finally surround it all with a circle 
of overlapping cutlets ? Think it over, 
and we will reconsider it below. If 
your answer is favorable, may we not 
take our boned quail upon a dish, 
garnish them with scrolls and rosettes 
of pea puree forced through a pastry 
bag, and daintily top off with the claws 
stuck here and there, like candles in a 
birthday cake ? 

The third step, still further from the 
intensely realistic, is to serve one sort 
of food in imitation of another or of 
other objects; e.g., mushroom mer- 
ingues. To this there can be no ob- 
jection whatever, so long as the article 
imitated be one that might in reality 
be eaten with appreciation. 

So far, it all seems a jumble, a 
matter of good taste; and in that who 
shall be the doctor? Let us see, how- 
ever, if we cannot educe a few prin- 
ciples from this hotch-potch. As a 
start, I will lay down the dogmatic 
statement that all garnishes and deco- 
rations, preferably, should be composed 
of food substances, of something that 
is to be eaten as a part of the dish, or, 
at the least, of something that might 
properly be eaten with relish at another 
time. 

The reason for this lies, in most cases, 
in the aesthetic plane, but branches 
across it in various directions. The 
first appearance of a dish, as it is brought 
to the attention of the prospective 
consumer, is not the only thing to be 
considered, though it may be the most 
important item. It should be taken 
into consideration how it will look after 
serving. 

Thus, when the lobster cutlets 
grouped about a rice croustade shall 



be served, there will be left upon the 
platter for the rather dubious edifica- 
tion of the eye a mound of rice sur- 
mounted by two pieces of refuse. The 
small claws stuck in the ends of the 
cutlets at once become refuse, also, 
when one begins to eat, and must 
offend the eye till the course be finished. 
The query is, Should that which is 
strictly refuse be used for a purpose 
intended to be wholly ornamental? 
If refuse must be used, is it not better 
to rely upon the cleanly little paper 
aigrettes? For, as a lobster cutlet is 
not made in imitation of anything save 
itself, the claw can add no sense of 
illusion; and, inasmuch as there is no 
occasion whatever to touch this food 
with the fingers, the claw cannot pos- 
sibly be deemed a handle, nor can re- 
liance be had upon a paper frill, as if 
it were a French chop. 

On the other hand, consider the 
question of serving boiled cabbage in a 
bowl of cabbage leaves, an naturel. 
Here, while the uncooked leaves are 
not intended to be eaten at the moment, 
they are a palatable food and one 
which will offend the eye to a minimum 
as left upon the serving-dish. This 
introduces the open question of putting 
individual salads, as celery with mayon- 
naise, in raw turnip cups, save when 
the cup is actually designed for con- 
sumption also. Again, shall we serve 
baked squash in its shell? and, if yes, 
shall we serve macaroni in an Edam 
shell ? Are these the same in* principle 
as the turnip cup above? And in 
which class should the pineapple sher- 
bet be placed, when served in a pine- 
apple shell? Does the mere flavor of 
pineapple furnish a reason for packing 
the ice in a refuse rind? 

Once more, and we are met by various 
dishes garnished with flowers, plants, 
etc. A flower may be less unseemly 
than a lobster claw, when discarded on 
the plate; but is it a thing to put with 
food? Does a mound of Bavarian 



Food in Little Italy 



277 



cream, made with a hollow core, have 
its simple attractions enhanced by 
doing duty as a vase for a clump of 
narcissus, or a Christmas pudding by 
being stuffed with holly ? For this last 
we may plead long custom and a certain 
pagan connection with the day. Shall 
the same excuse apply to the birthday 
cake with its candles, planted, as it 
were, around a bier? Then, if the 
narcissus and holly be acceptable, 'tis 
but a step further to moulding pansies 
and roses in jelly, much as if they were 
in aspic. Do you hesitate at this, and 
would you at the bunch of grapes put 
in the same jelly in place thereof ? One, 
you see, at the given time and place is 
food, and the other refuse. 



Consider the striped and checkered 
sandwiches made by much manipulation 
of different kinds and colors of bread. 
Here the objection, if any, comes in 
the strong suggestion of much handling 
of the food prior to its appearance on 
the table. This is pushing the question 
far, which evidently is an open one, as 
is also that of the triangles of jelly, and 
clubs, hearts, spades, etc., of vege- 
tables, as often used. 

After all, when I remember the slices 
of cold boiled ham garnished with 
nasturtium leaves and blossoms, I am 
prone to think that, like many another, 
the only flower poor piggy ever had 
were those over his carcass, and feel 
disposed to forgive the cook. Do you ? 



Food in Little Italy 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



IF foreign travel be impossible and 
books about other lands only tan- 
talizing, you may find quite a little 
diversion and gain some information 
by visiting the foreign quarters in our 
large American cities; for there many 
people live in much the same way that 
they did in their homes across the seas. 
Without undue tax upon your vo- 
cabulary or purse, you can go to the 
Italian shops. Some of the stores you 
will find orderly and clean, where you 
will be waited upon by swarthy men. 
Or you may encounter a dashing bru- 
nette whose eyes look as if they could 
flash all too gayly in the excitement 
of the tarantella, and who glances 
boldly at you, not desirous of answer- 
ing your inquiries, and shrieking in a 
vixenish manner at some mild youth 
peacefully reading a paper, when he 
essays to call "Boss" for the owner of 
the shop to come and interpret for you. 



Do not feel dismayed by this ex- 
perience, for at the next place you may 
find a young mother tending shop, 
with her baby in her arms, looking 
markedly like the gentle, oval-faced 
Madonnas of Raphael. Besides the 
little shops there are large Italian im- 
porting grocers, where men who under- 
stand foreign edibles and like good 
living are wont to go for fine cheese and 
wines at a moderate price. There will 
be wine known as "Chianti" and sweet 
red "Lachryma Chris ti," which sug- 
gests port, but is not so astringent. 
As one girl said: "I did not know 
what Ivachryma Christi was until I 
went into an Italian shop. When 
Cousin Millicent mentioned it in a 
letter from Italy, I supposed from the 
name it must be a sorrowful carving 
in a church or wayside shrine." 

On the walls and ceilings of the Ital- 
ian groceries are hung many hams and 



278 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



cheeses, the latter shaped like a gourd 
and dark-colored from the manner of 
curing. Slice across one; and the fine, 
firm texture, pleasant flavor, and yel- 
low color will be revealed. Some are 
made of sheep and goats' milk. There 
will be Caciovalli, Provoli, Pecorino, 
Toscano, and Roman, besides the more 
familiar Gorgonzola, and Parmesan. 

Of course there are sausages and 
quantities of sardines, anchovies, tunny 
fish, pickled eels, dark ripe olives, and 
green ones, red peppers, and dried 
fruits. Under the name of pomidoro 
one may recognize our familiar tomato. 
It comes as a thick paste, either in 
cans or in large receptacles, from 
which it is sold by the pound for 
making soups and sauces and for 
macaroni dressing. Without a great 
array of macaroni pastes it would 
not be an Italian shop. Artichokes 
in cans are for sale, and are very 
cheap, — the globe or French artichoke, 
not the tubers. Oranges and chest- 
nuts are sold by the curbstone venders. 

At the confectionery stores you will 
find almond candies predominating, 
in all colors, both soft and brilliant; for 
it is the hard, sugar-coated almonds 
that are preferred. Hazel-nut nougat 
is forty cents a pound, very solid with 
nuts, — unblanched, which is a pity, — 
and here and there bits of citron with 
the nuts. At little bake-shops are very 
nice almond biscottines; and apple 
patties, two for five cents, have delicate 
pastry prettily edged and a well-pre- 
pared filling. The kindly patrons 
stand back, and let you buy first; for 
they see that you are not one of them, 
and kindly explain what the various 
things are composed of, if the attend- 
ant cannot do so. 

Not only at a restaurant conspicu- 
ously labelled "Cosmopolitan" do you 
see an American pie, but almost every- 
where you go, even the "crumb pie" 
of the Pennsylvania Germans, if it is 
in Philadelphia that you choose to go 



a-hunting. Will you enter the Caf£ 
Mascagni, and hear the music, if you 
are told the owner is a relative of the 
noted musician of that name? Fur- 
ther on is the Cafe Posilippo. Will 
you venture in there for shell-fish, as 
if you were on the Bay of Naples ? Or 
at a more showy corner place, with a 
large display window, where you see 
"Restaurante di Roma," will you try 
some of the mushrooms and raviolis? 
Or will you go further to the Restaurant 
della Bella Napoli? In the window 
are fresh liver, fresh egg plant, some 
pies, a basket of mushrooms, cream 
cakes, croquettes ready for frying, and 
a platter of raviolis, ready for their 
final cooking. 

Raviolis are a form of dumpling. A 
boiled noodle dough is stretched very 
thin, and on it at regular intervals is 
placed high-seasoned, chopped meat 
or vegetables. When half has been 
so filled, the other half of the pastry 
is carefully lifted and placed over the 
top. The separate, little, flattened 
mounds of filling are then cut out with 
a sharp cutter, often with scalloped 
edges, and the edges of pastry are then 
pressed together with a little milk or 
water, to aid in uniting them. Then 
they are ready for the final cooking, 
but are usually set away awhile. When 
the meal is to be served, they are lifted 
with care, as the thin dough breaks 
easily, and are poached in broth or 
salted water. Lift them with* a salted 
skimmer, when done, draining off all 
water or broth. In a frying-pan, con- 
taining plenty of hot butter, fry some 
bread dice until crisply brown. Pour 
the browned butter and bread dice 
over the raviolis, and serve at once. 
Bread crumbs are mixed with the meat 
filling, and bound together with yolk 
of egg sometimes. Again, giblets are 
used, and the raviolis are served around 
boiled fowl. Cauliflower is a suitable 
vegetable, with a little cheese sauce, 
for raviolis. Garibaldi once remarked 



Lessons in Cookery and Food Economy 



279 



that the thought of raviolis somet